DROPS / 212 / 15

Canyon Clay by DROPS Design

Knitted top with raglan in DROPS Paris. Piece is knitted top down with rib. Size: S - XXXL

DROPS design: Pattern w-806
Yarn group C or A + A
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SIZE:
S - M - L - XL - XXL – XXXL

Finished measurements:
Chest measurements: 80-88-96-104-120-132 cm = 31 1/2”-34 5/8”-37 3/4”-41”-47 1/4”-52”
Full length: 50-52-54-56-58-60 cm = 19 3/4"-20 1/2"-21 1/4"-22"-22 3/4"-23 5/8"

All measurements in charts are in cm.

MATERIALS:
DROPS PARIS from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
350-350-400-450-500-550 g color 65, rust

KNITTING GAUGE:
17 stitches in width and 22 rows vertically in stockinette stitch = 10 x 10 cm = 4” x 4”.

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 5 mm = US 8
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 5 mm = US 8: Length 40 and 80 cm = 16” and 32”.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3.5 mm = US 4: Length 40 and 80 cm = 16” and 32” for rib.
Needle size is only a suggestion! If you have too many stitches on 10 cm = 4” switch to a larger needle size. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm = 4” switch to a smaller needle size.

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 5 ft 7 in and uses size S or M. If you are making a sweater, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
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EXPLANATION FOR THE PATTERN:

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INCREASE TIP-1 (evenly):
To calculate how to increase evenly, count the stitches to be increased (e.g. 9 stitches) and divide by stitches of increases to be done (e.g. 2) = 4.5.
In this example increase by making 1 yarn over after alternately every 4th and 5th stitch. On next row work yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.

INCREASE TIP-2:
Increase 1 stitch by making 1 yarn over. On next round purl yarn over twisted to avoid holes. Purl the new stitches.

INCREASE TIP-3 (applies to sides of body):
Work until 2 stitches remain before marker thread, 1 yarn over, knit 4 (marker thread is in the middle of these stitches), 1 yarn over. On next round knit yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. Then work the new stitches in stockinette stitch.

DECREASE TIP:
Decrease 1 stitch on each side of marker thread as follows: Work until 3 stitches remain before marker thread and knit 2 together, knit 2 (marker thread is between these stitches), slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked.

RAGLAN:
In the beginning increase 2 stitches towards each raglan on front and back piece (= 8 stitches increased on round), and thereafter increase 1 stitch towards each raglan on front and back piece (= 4 stitches increased on round).
Increase 2 stitches before marker thread as follows: Work until 2 stitches remain before marker thread: 1 yarn over, knit 1, 1 yarn over, knit 1, marker thread is here.
Increase 2 stitches after marker thread as follows: Knit 1, 1 yarn over, knit 1, 1 yarn over.
Increase 1 stitch before marker thread as follows: Work until 1 stitch remains before marker thread: 1 yarn over, knit 1, marker thread is here.
Increase 1 stitch after marker thread as follows: Knit 1, 1 yarn over.
On next round knit yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. Then work the new stitches in stockinette stitch.

BIND-OFF TIP:
To avoid a tight bind-off edge you may use a larger needle. If this also is too tight, make 1 yarn over after approx. every 4th stitch and bind off these as regular stitches.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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TOP - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
Work neck edge and yoke in the round on circular needle from mid back, top down. Now divide yoke for body and sleeves. Work body in the round on circular needle. Work sleeves in the round on double pointed needles/short circular needle, top down.

NECK EDGE:
Cast on 112-118-126-138-144-144 stitches on circular needle size 3.5 mm = US 4 with Paris. Knit 1 round. Work next round as follows: (Knit 2/purl 2) over the first 8-8-12-12-12-12 stitches, knit 1, insert a marker thread here (= in transition between back piece and right sleeve), knit 1, (purl 1/knit 2) over the next 33-36-36-42-45-45 stitches, purl 1, knit 1, insert a marker thread here (= in transition between right sleeve and front piece), knit 1, (purl 2/knit 2) over the next 16-16-20-20-20-20 stitches, purl 2, knit 1, insert a marker thread here (= in transition between front piece and left sleeve), knit 1, (purl 1/knit 2) over the next 33-36-36-42-45-45 stitches, purl 1, knit 1, insert a marker thread here (= in transition between left sleeve and back piece), knit 1, (purl 2/knit 2) over the next 8-8-8-8-8-8 stitches, purl 2.
Continue in the round like this until rib measures 3 cm = 1 1/8”.
When rib is done, work next round as follows:
Knit until first marker thread and increase at the same time 2-3-3-3-3-4 stitches evenly – read INCREASE TIP-1, knit over knit and purl over purl until next marker thread and increase at the same time 1 stitch in every purl section – read INCREASE TIP-2, knit until next marker thread and increase at the same time 4-6-5-5-6-8 stitches evenly, knit over knit and purl over purl until next marker thread and increase at the same time 1 stitch in every purl section, knit the last 11-11-11-11-11-11 stitches and increase at the same time 2-3-2-2-3-4 stitches evenly = 144-156-162-178-188-192 stitches. Work 1 row with knit over knit and purl over purl (work the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes).
Switch to circular needle size 5 mm = US 8. Insert 1 marker at the beginning of round (= approx. mid back), measure yoke from this marker!

YOKE:
Knit over knit and purl over purl. On first round start increase for RAGLAN – read explanation above. Only increase on front piece and back piece towards each raglan. Increase 2 stitches every other round 9-9-8-10-12-13 times in total, then increase 1 stitch every other round 2-4-6-6-8-8 times = 224-244-250-282-316-328 stitches. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE! Continue with knit over knit and purl over purl until piece measures 12-13-15-16-18-20 cm = 4 3/4”-5 1/8”-6”-6 1/4”-7”-8” from marker.
The yoke is finished. Then work in the outermost stitch in each side of front piece and back piece in on sleeves.
Work next round as follows: Work the first 30-33-37-41-47-50 stitches, slip the next 50-54-54-62-66-66 stitches on a stitch holder for sleeve and cast on 6-6-10-10-10-14 stitches on needle (= in the side under sleeve), work the next 62-68-71-79-92-98 stitches (= front piece), slip the next 50-54-54-62-66-66 stitches on a stitch holder for sleeve and cast on 6-6-10-10-10-14 stitches on needle (= in the side under sleeve), work the remaining 32-35-34-38-45-48 stitches on needle.
Then finish body and sleeves separately. NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE!

BODY:
= 136-148-162-178-204-224 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread in the in each side, in middle of the new stitches cast-on under the sleeves (= 3-3-5-5-5-7 new stitches on each side of marker thread). Move the marker threads upwards when working; they should be used for increase later in the sides.
Work in stockinette stitch in the round. When piece measures 4 cm = 1 1/2” from division, decrease 1 stitch on each side of marker threads - read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this approx. every 8-9-6-5-4-3 cm = 3 1/8”-3 1/2”-2 3/8”-2”-1 1/2”-1 1/8” 2 times in total = 128-140-154-170-196-216 stitches. When piece measures 20-18-16-14-12-10 cm = 8”-7”-6 1/4”-5 1/2”-4 3/4”-4” from division, increase 1 stitch on each side of marker threads - read INCREASE TIP-3. Increase like this approx. every 3-4-4-5-6-6 cm = 1 1/8”-1 1/2”-1 1/2”-2”-2 3/8”-2 3/8” 4-4-4-4-3-3 times in total = 144-156-170-186-208-228 stitches. When piece measures 30 cm = 8” from division (3 cm = 1 1/8” remain until finished measurements - work to desired length), knit 1 round while increasing 28-28-34-38-40-44 stitches = 172-184-204-224-248-272 stitches. Switch to circular needle size 3.5 mm = US 4. Work rib (knit 2/purl 2) in the round for 3 cm = 1 1/8”. Bind off with knit over knit and purl over purl - read BIND-OFF TIP. Top measures total 50-52-54-56-58-60 cm = 19 3/4"-20 1/2"-21 1/4"-22"-22 3/4"-23 5/8" in total from shoulder and down.

SLEEVE:
Slip the 50-54-54-62-66-66 stitches from stitch holder in one side back on double pointed needles/circular needle size 5 mm = US 8, and pick up 1 stitch in each of the 6-6-10-10-10-14 stitches cast on under the sleeve = 56-60-64-72-76-80 stitches. Work rib (knit 2/purl 2) in the round. When sleeve measures 3 cm = 1 1/8” from division, bind off with knit over knit and purl over purl - remember BIND-OFF TIP. Work the other sleeve the same way.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 07.05.2020
SLEEVE ....and pick up 1 stitch in each of the 6-6-10-10-10-14 stitches cast on under the sleeve = 56-60-64-72-76-80 stitches.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.


Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 212-15) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (87)

Valérie 04.07.2020 - 14:14:

Bonjour, De quelle manière sont montées les mailles pour avoir une jolie bordure comme sur la photo (mailles inclinées de l'autre côté par rapport au modèle Cornflower Top) ? "Continuer en rond ainsi jusqu'à ce que les côtes mesurent 3 cm." : sur la photo il y a 6 rangs de côtes mais 6 rangs de côtes ne font pas 3 cm. Les photos sont-elles censées représenter ce qu'on doit obtenir ? Merci de vos réponses.

DROPS Design 06.07.2020 kl. 08:30:

Bonjour Valérie, les mailles sont montées à la méthode continentale - en fonction de votre tension en hauteur, il vous faudra peut être un nombre de rangs différent pour les 3 cm de côtes, ce qui compte c'est ici la hauteur, continuez jusqu'à ce que vous ayez ces 3 cm. Bon tricot!

Susanne Birkler 18.06.2020 - 21:27:

Hej jeg kan ikke forstå beskrivelsen af : (Sæt 1 mærketråd i hver side, midt i de nye masker som blev slået op under ærmerne (= 3-3-5-5-5-7 nye masker på hver side af mærketråden). Lad mærketrådene følge med i arbejdet, de skal bruges lidt senere når der skal tages ud i siderne.) Skal mærketråden sættes i de første 10 m.? Og hvor Eller på for og bag stk. Hvordan sætter de nye masker ind Kh Susanne

DROPS Design 22.06.2020 kl. 11:14:

Hei Susanne. I oppskriften står det under RYG & FORSTYKKE : Sæt 1 mærketråd i hver side, midt i de nye masker som blev slået op under ærmerne (= 3-3-5-5-5-7 nye masker på hver side af mærketråden). Merketråden er satt midt under erme, slik at når det senere skal felles og økes i sidene skal det felles / økes på hver side av disse 2 merketrådene, les også FELLETIPS og ØKETIPS-3 i oppskriften. Gjerne se og les videoen: "Mærketråd (MT)" God Fornøyelse!

Pernille Raun 11.06.2020 - 15:45:

Hej. Jeg forstår ikke udregningen vedr. udtag til raglan. Jeg strikker L. Hvis jeg skal øge med 2 masker på hver side af mærketrådene, så øges der da med 16 masker pr. omgang og ikke 8. Tilsvarende når man øger med 1 på hver side af mærketråden, så bliver antallet på en omgang 8. Dette betyder, at jeg, når bærestykket er færdigt, sidder tilbage med 338 masker og ikke 250 masker - hvor er det jeg går galt?

DROPS Design 12.06.2020 kl. 10:54:

Hej Pernille, du øger kun til raglan på forstykket og på bagstykket (ikke på ærmerne). Først øger du 2 masker i hver side = 4 masker på forstykket og 4 masker på bagstykket. God fornøjelse!

Mª José 10.06.2020 - 23:37:

Hola me llamo Mª José y tengo el canal El punto Inglés donde tengo un Jersey publicado el 25.08.2016 que guarda mucha similitud con este. Me ha sorprendido enormemente!! ya que en mi Instagram punto_ingles me están haciendo preguntas para resolver algunos problemas que están teniendo con las instrucciones que dan de su jersey con los aumentos del ranglan y que casualmente coinciden con los comentarios que les hacen a ustedes en Comentarios/ Preguntas. Saludos.

Elena 10.06.2020 - 17:26:

Hola, En el ranglan, ¿en qué vuelta tengo que aumentar 8 puntos, y en qué vuelta tengo que aumentar 4 puntos?? Gracias

DROPS Design 13.06.2020 kl. 20:36:

Hola Elena. Primero aumentas 8 puntos en cada 2ª vuelta una vuelta aumentas, en la siguiente no, en la siguiente sí...) el nº de veces según la talla que trabajas, después de completar esta parte aumentas 4 puntos en la vuelta cada 2ª vuelta (una aumentas, la siguiente no, la siguiente sí...) también el nº de veces según la talla.

Wilma Vrijs 10.06.2020 - 07:57:

In het patroon staat na het afronden van de pas: Brei dan in de buitenste steek aan elke kant van het voorpand en het achterpand in op de mouwen. Dat begrijp ik niet, sorry. Wat betekent dat?

DROPS Design 10.06.2020 kl. 11:43:

Dag Wilma,

Het staat er inderdaad een beetje vreemd, maar de buitenste steken van de panden worden nu bij de mouwen gezet. Maar hier hoef je verder niks te doen, het staat er alleen als extra informatie. Je kunt het patroon voortzetten vanaf de volgende zin: 'Brei de volgende naald als volt...' , dan wijst het zich vanzelf.

Lata 09.06.2020 - 23:40:

Buonasera, non capisco gli aumenti del raglan perché se aumento 2 maglie prima del segno e 2 dopo il segno essendo quattro i segni che dividono il davanti e il dietro dalle maniche gli aumenti diventando 16 per giro, cosa sbagliato? Grazie

DROPS Design 10.06.2020 kl. 12:01:

Buongiorno Lata. Deve aumentare solo sul davanti e sul dietro, non sulle maniche. Quindi aumenta 2 maglie 4 volte sul giro, in tutto 8 maglie. Buon lavoro!

Lara 08.06.2020 - 11:46:

Buongiorno, il mio campione non risulta uguale al vostro ho infatti 22 maglie in larghezza anzichè 17 come il vostro. Non posso usare un ago più grande perchè la trama risulta troppo larga, come posso regolarmi per l'avvio delle maglie? Forse 112 per la taglia S sono troppe poche? Grazie molte!

DROPS Design 12.06.2020 kl. 10:13:

Buongiorno Lara, questo modello e in generale questo filato richiede una tensione di 17 maglie in larghezza, indipendentemente dalla trama. Buon lavoro!

STURM 03.06.2020 - 17:07:

Un grand merci !! je viens de comprendre mon erreur !

STURM 02.06.2020 - 21:37:

Y a-t-il une erreur dans les explications au niveau de l\'empiècement ? je suis après la bordure avec les aig. 5. Dans les explications, je devrais poursuivre partout en côte (soit env, soit end, comme les mailles se présentent). Sur la photo, après la bordure en aig 3,5, le devant et le dos sont en jersey end. alors que les explications poursuivent pendant 15 cm en côtes end/ env partout. Les explications ne font commencer le jersey endroit qu'après l'augmentation pour les manches.

DROPS Design 03.06.2020 kl. 07:25:

Bonjour Mme Sturm, pas d'erreur à priori, pour l'empiècement, vous tricotez les mailles comme elles se présentent, autrement dit, les mailles jersey tricotées au dernier rang du col (aiguilles 3,5) vont se tricoter à l'endroit, vous aurez ainsi les mailles des manches en côtes et les mailles du devant et celles du dos en jersey. Vérifiez bien le dernier tour du col, c'est là que l'on commence à tricoter du jersey. Bon tricot!

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