DROPS Safran
DROPS Safran
100% Cotton
from 2.05 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 10.25$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

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Catch the Wind

Knitted top with raglan and short sleeves in DROPS Safran. The piece is worked top down with lace pattern. Sizes XS - XXL.

DROPS 211-5
DROPS Design: Pattern no e-306
Yarn group A
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SIZES:
XS - S - M - L - XL - XXL

Finished measurements:
Chest measurements: 72-80-88-96-106-118 cm = 28⅜"-31½"-34⅝"-37¾"-41¾"-46½"
Full length: 49-52-54-56-58-60 cm = 19¼"-20½"-21¼"-22"-22¾"-23⅝"

All measurements in charts are in cm.

MATERIALS:
DROPS SAFRAN from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
250-250-250-300-300-350 g color 18, off white

KNITTING GAUGE:
24 stitches in width and 32 rows in height with stockinette stitch = 10 x 10 cm = 4" x 4".

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3 MM = US 2,5: Length 40 cm = 16" and 60 cm = 24" or 80 cm = 32" for stockinette stitch.
Needle size is only a suggestion! If you have too many stitches on 10 cm = 4" switch to a larger needle size. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm = 4" switch to a smaller needle size.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Safran
DROPS Safran
100% Cotton
from 2.05 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 10.25$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked in the round):
1 ridge in height = 2 rounds; Knit 1 round and purl 1 round.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.4.

RAGLAN:
Increase to raglan on each side of the back piece and each side of the front piece (towards the sleeves). Increase by making 1 yarn over before/after the stitch with the marker thread; on the next round knit the yarn overs to leave holes. The increases on the sleeves are drawn into patterns A.1 and A.3.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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TOP – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The neck and yoke are worked in the round with circular needle, top down. The yoke is divided for body and sleeves and the body continued in the round. A small edge is worked around the armholes.

NECK:
Cast on 106-110-116-120-124-132 stitches with circular needle size 3 mm = US 2,5 and Safran. Work 2 RIDGES – read description above. Then work the yoke as described below.

YOKE:
Insert 4 marker threads in the piece as described below (without working the stitches). The threads will be used when increasing to raglan.
Count 16-17-18-19-20-22 stitches (= half back piece), insert 1 marker thread in the next stitch, count 19 stitches (= sleeve), insert 1 marker thread in the next stitch, count 32-34-37-39-41-45 stitches (= front piece), insert 1 marker thread in the next stitch, count 19 stitches (= sleeve), insert 1 marker thread in the next stitch. There are 16-17-19-20-21-23 stitches after the last marker thread (half back piece).
The first round is worked as follows: Work stockinette stitch as far as the first marker-stitch, make 1 yarn over (first increase to RAGLAN – see description above), work the marker-stitch in stockinette stitch, A.1 (= 2 stitches), A.2 (= 14 stitches) and A.3 ( = 3 stitches) (= 19 stitches on the sleeve), work the marker-stitch in stockinette stitch, 1 yarn over, work stockinette stitch as far as the next marker-stitch (= front piece), 1 yarn over, work the marker-stitch in stockinette stitch, A.1 (= 2 stitches), A.2 (= 14 stitches) and A.3 (= 3 stitches) (= 19 stitches on the sleeve), work the marker-stitch in stockinette stitch, 1 yarn over, work stockinette stitch over the remaining stitches (= half back piece).
Continue this pattern with stockinette stitch on the front and back pieces and A.1, A.2 and A.3 on the sleeves. Each time A.1, A.2 and A.3 are worked 1 time in height, you work 2 more repeats of A.2 between A.1 and A.3. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE!

AT THE SAME TIME continue to increase to raglan every 2nd round a total of 22-26-28-31-35-39 times at each marker thread (including the first increase described above). The new stitches are worked in stockinette stitch on the front and back pieces and in lace pattern as shown in the diagrams on the sleeves. When the increases to raglan are finished there are 294-334-356-388-424-468 stitches on the needle. The next round is worked as follows: Work 39-44-47-51-56-62 stitches (= half the back piece), place the next 69-79-83-91-99-109 stitches on 1 thread for the sleeve, cast on 9-9-9-11-13-15 new stitches on the needle (= in side under sleeve), work 78-88-95-103-113-125 stitches (= front piece), place the next 69-79-83-91-99-109 stitches on 1 thread for the sleeve, cast on 9-9-9-11-13-15 new stitches on the needle (= in side under sleeve), work the last 39-44-48-52-57-63 stitches (= half back piece). Body and sleeves are finished separately. THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE!

BODY:
= 174-194-208-228-252-280 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread in the middle of the 9-9-9-11-13-15 stitches cast on under each sleeve. Cut the strand and begin the round 6 stitches before 1 of the stitches with marker thread. Work A.4 (= 13 stitches), work 74-84-91-101-113-127 stitches in stockinette stitch, work A.4 and then stockinette stitch over the last 74-84-91-101-113-127 stitches. Continue this pattern, AT THE SAME TIME, when the piece measures 2 cm = ¾", increase by making 1 yarn over on each side of A.4, on the next round knit the yarn over twisted to avoid holes (= 4 increased stitches). Repeat the increase every 1 ½ cm = ½" a total of 18 times; the increased stitches are worked in stockinette stitch = 246-266-280-300-324-352 stitches. When the piece measures 28-29-29-30-29-29 cm = 11"-11⅜"-11⅜"-11¾"-11⅜"-11⅜" from the division work 2 ridges over all stitches, then bind off.

SLEEVE-EDGE:
Place the 69-79-83-91-99-109 stitches on one of the threads on short circular needle size 3 mm = US 2,5 and knit up 1 stitch in each of the 9-9-9-11-13-15 new stitches under the sleeve = 78-88-92-102-112-124 stitches. Work 2 ridges over all stitches, then bind off.

Work the other sleeve-edge in the same way.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 12.05.2020
Correction: 2 yarn overs on the 9th round in diagram A.4 as been removed.
Updated online: 04.06.2020
Correction: 2 yarn overs on the 13th round in diagram A.4 as been added.
Updated online: 04.11.2021
YOKE:... work the marker-stitch in stocking stitch, 1 yarn over, work stockinette stitch over the remaining stitches (= half back piece).

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = knit
symbols = purl
symbols = knit 2 together
symbols = slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch
symbols = between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over; on the next round knit the yarn over to leave a hole
symbols = slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 2 together and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted together stitches
diagram
diagram
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Post a comment to pattern DROPS 211-5

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Comments / Questions (171)

country flag Susanne wrote:

Vielen lieben Dank für die rasche Antwort.

18.06.2024 - 08:34

country flag Susanne wrote:

Schönen guten Tag, ich möchte mir dieses tolle Top in Größe M stricken, komme aber mit den Angaben der Maschen nicht ganz klar. Meine Frage: Werden die Raglan-Zunahmen jeweils vor und nach dem markierten Faden gemacht, also pro Faden zwei Maschen?

17.06.2024 - 11:10

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Susanne, es wird nicht immer 1 masche beidseitig von den Markierugen zugenommen, da in A.1 und A.3 manchmal auch 2 Maschen zugenommen werden; aber beim Vorder/Rückenteil sollen Sie jeweils 1 Masche am Anfang + 1 Masche am Ende vom Vorder/Rückenteil zunehmen und für die Ärmel nehmen Sie wie den Diagramme zu, dh nach den 24 Reihen von A.1-A.3 haben Sie 14 Maschen in A.1 und 14 Maschen in A.3 zugenommen. Viel Spaß beim Stricken!

17.06.2024 - 15:06

country flag Mary De Bock wrote:

Ik kom niet aan mijn 356 steken. 1achterkant is 43, mouw 75 voorste 85steken mouw 75 steken 2achterkant 45 kom ik maar aan 322 steken. wat doe ik verkeerd. mouw brei 1e keer 16-14-17 herhaal 2e maal 16 3x14 - 17= 75 steken achterkant 18st+24toeren= 42 dit maal 2 = 84 / 19st +24toeren= 86 st wat doe ik verkeerd

15.06.2024 - 08:51

country flag Lois wrote:

At end of yoke, it states continue this pattern....work 2 more repeats of A.2 between A.1 and A.3. Is this the same as as working the original pattern of A.1, A.2 and A.3 stated differently? I'm a little confused.

14.06.2024 - 13:34

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Lois, it means that between the A.1 and A.3 patterns there will be enough stitches tp work two moe repeats of the A.2 patterns (two more repeats than there were previously). Happy Knitting!

15.06.2024 - 00:37

country flag Lia wrote:

Ik kom niet uit regel 1 en 2 van A1. De mouw telt 19 steken. Je begint met 1 rechte en 1 averechtse en dan een omslag. De volgende pen moet je 1 rechte, 1 averechtse en dan 1 rechte. De averechtse steek komt boven de rechte steek van toer 1. Ik heb dan geen steek over om de eerste rechte te breien. Hoe doe ik dat. Graag uw reactie.

04.06.2024 - 15:30

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Lia,

Zoals ik het zie staan de steken niet op de juiste manier boven elkaar in A.1. Als je gewoon de beschrijving volgt, dan komen de averechte steken van A.1 steeds boven elkaar.

05.06.2024 - 19:57

country flag Sylvie Chevrier wrote:

Merci pour votre réponse mais comme je dis la maille envers n est donc pas décalée puisqu au 1er tour on fait 1 end 1 env 1 j et le 2eme rang on recommence avec 1end 1 env. La maille envers se retrouve donc sur la maille envers du 1er tour ? Et non décalée comme sur le diagramme?

04.06.2024 - 09:34

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Chevrier, tout à fait, elle n'est décalée que dans le diagramme pour des raisons techniques de construction de ce même diagramme, mais la maille envers sera toujours la 2ème maille de A.1 et l'avant dernière maille de A.3 tout du long. Bon tricot!

04.06.2024 - 12:59

country flag Sylvie Chevrier wrote:

Bonjour. Je ne comprends pas le 2eme Rang sur le diagramme a1 comment la maille envers peut être décalée par rapport au rang 1 étant donné qu il n y a pas d augmentation à cet endroit au rang 1 ?

04.06.2024 - 01:14

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Chevrier, pour des raisons techniques les augmentations des diagrammes sont représentées à droite (dans A.1) ou à gauche (dans A.3), autrement dit, au 1er tour, vous augmentez (vous faites 1 jeté) après la maille envers =(= 1 m end, 1 m env, 1 jeté) vous aurez donc 1 m en plus après la maille envers au 2ème tour, soit: 1 m end, 1 m env, 1 m end (le jeté du 1er tour). Bon tricot!

04.06.2024 - 08:17

country flag Sylvie Chevrier wrote:

Bonjour. Je ne comprends pas le 2eme Rang sur le diagramme a1 comment la maille envers peut être décalée par rapport au rang 1 étant donné qu il n y a pas d augmentation à cet endroit au rang 1 ?

04.06.2024 - 01:13

country flag Lia Van Velzen wrote:

Zijn de markeersteken in patroondeel A1 en A3 aangegeven? Graag uw reactie.

03.06.2024 - 16:49

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Lia,

Nee, je breit de markeersteken zijn niet in de telpatronen aangegeven. In de beschrijving van de pas staat ook '...brei de markeerdraad-steek in tricotsteek, A.1 (= 2 steken), A.2 (= 14 steken) en A.3 ( = 3 steken) (= 19 steken op de mouw), brei de markeerdraad-steek in tricotsteek, 1 omslag... enz'

03.06.2024 - 20:22

country flag Lia Van Velzen wrote:

Het patroon van A2 is bij de regels 1 3 5 fout. De omslagen moeten na en voor de mindering komen te staan, anders kan je nooit van 7 steken 9 steken krijgen.

03.06.2024 - 07:17