DROPS / 208 / 5

Candy Cane Lane by DROPS Design

Knitted sweater for men in DROPS Karisma or DROPS Lima. Piece knitted top down with round yoke and Nordic pattern. Size: S - XXXL

DROPS design: Pattern u-896
Yarn group B
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SIZE:
S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL

Finished measurements:
Chest measurements: 94-100-108-118-132-142 cm = 37”-39 3/8”-42 1/2”-46 1/2”-52”-55 3/4”
Full length: 62-64-66-68-70-72 cm = 24 3/8"-25 1/4"-26"-26 3/4"-27 1/2"-28 3/8”

All measurements in chart are in cm.

MATERIALS:
DROPS KARISMA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
450-450-500-550-600-650 g color no 48, wine red
300-350-350-400-400-450 g color no 01, off white

Or use
DROPS LIMA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
450-450-500-550-600-650 g color no 3609, red
300-350-350-400-400-450 g color no 0100, off white


KNITTING GAUGE:
21 stitches in width and 28 rows vertically in stockinette stitch and Nordic pattern = 10 x 10 cm = 4” x 4”.

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 4 mm = US 6
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4 mm = US 6: Length 40 and 80 cm = 16” and 32” for stockinette stitch and Nordic pattern.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3 mm = US 2,5
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3 mm = US 2,5: Length 40 and 80 cm = 16” and 32” for rib.
Needle size is only a suggestion! If you have too many stitches on 10 cm = 4” switch to larger needles. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm = 4” switch to smaller needles.

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Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!

100% Wool
from 3.20 $ /50g
DROPS Karisma uni colour DROPS Karisma uni colour 3.20 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
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DROPS Karisma mix DROPS Karisma mix 3.20 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
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DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 48.00$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
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EXPLANATION FOR THE PATTERN:

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ELEVATION (in back of neck):
To make the sweater higher in the back of neck when working round yoke work an elevation as explained below. Skip this paragraph if you do not want an elevation.
Insert 1 marker at beginning of round = mid back. Begin from right side with wine red and knit 12-13-14-15-15-16 stitches past marker, turn, tighten yarn and purl 24-26-28-30-30-32. Turn, tighten yarn and knit 36-39-42-45-45-48, turn, tighten yarn and purl 48-52-56-60-60-64. Turn, tighten yarn and knit 60-65-70-75-75-80, turn, tighten yarn and purl 72-78-48-90-90-96, turn, tighten yarn and knit until mid back. Then work YOKE as explained in pattern.

INCREASE TIP (evenly):
To calculate how to increase evenly, use the total number of stitches on row (e.g. 96 stitches) and divide stitches by number of increases to be done (e.g. 24) = 4.
In this example increase by making 1 yarn over after every 4th stitch. On next round knit yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.

PATTERN:
See diagram A.1. Choose diagram for your size. Work the entire pattern in stockinette stitch.

KNITTING TIP:
To avoid the knitting gauge to tighten when working pattern, it is important not to tighten the strands on back side of piece. Use a larger needle size when working pattern if needed.

DECREASE TIP (applies to mid under sleeves):
Begin 3 stitches before marker thread and knit 2 together, knit 2 (marker thread is between these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked (= 2 stitches decreased).

BIND-OFF TIP:
To avoid a tight bind-off edge you may use a larger needle. Or make 1 yarn over after approx. every 8th stitch while binding off (bind off yarn overs as regular stitches).
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START THE PIECE HERE:

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SWEATER - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
Neck edge and yoke are worked in the round on circular needle, top down. Now divide yoke for body and sleeves. Body is worked in the round on circular needle, top down. Work sleeves in the round on double pointed needles/short circular needle, top down.

NECK EDGE:
Cast on 96-100-104-108-112-116 stitches on circular needle size 3 mm = US 2,5 with wine red. Knit 1 round. Then work rib in the round (= knit 2/purl 2) for 3 cm = 1 1/8”. Switch to circular needle size 4 mm = US 6. Knit 1 round while increasing 24-28-32-36-36-36 stitches evenly - read INCREASE TIP = 120-128-136-144-148-152 stitches on needle. Knit 1 round.
Insert 1 marker on round - mid front on sweater, yoke should be measured from marker. Now work an ELEVATION - read explanation above. If you do not want an elevation, skip directly to YOKE.

YOKE:
Read KNITTING TIP and work A.1 in the round (= 30-32-34-36-37-38 repetitions of 4 stitches). REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE!
AT THE SAME TIME on every round marked with arrow in A.1, increase stitches evenly as explained below.
Arrow-1: Increase 44-44-44-52-52-56 stitches evenly = 164-172-180-196-200-208 stitches (there is now room for 41-43-45-49-50-52 repetitions of A.1 of 4 stitches).
Arrow-2: Increase 40-40-44-48-52-52 stitches evenly = 204-212-224-244-252-260 stitches (there is now room for 51-53-56-61-63-65 repetitions A.1 of 4 stitches).
Arrow-3: Increase 36-36-40-44-48-48 stitches evenly = 240-248-264-288-300-308 stitches (there is now room for 60-62-66-72-75-77 repetitions A.1 of 4 stitches).
Arrow-4: Increase 0-8-8-16-20-28 stitches evenly = 240-256-272-304-320-336 stitches (there is now room for 15-16-17-19-20-21 repetitions A.1 of 16 stitches).
Arrow-5: Increase 24-28-28-24-28-32 stitches evenly but make sure to increase with off white so not to ruin the star = 264-284-300-328-348-368 stitches (there is now room for 66-71-75-82-87-92 repetitions A.1 of 4 stitches).
Arrow-6: Increase 16-16-20-20-20-24 stitches evenly = 280-300-320-348-368-392 stitches (there is now room for 70-75-80-87-92-98 repetitions A.1 of 4 stitches).
Arrow-7: Increase 12-12-12-16-16-20 stitches evenly = 292-312-332-364-384-412 stitches (there is now room for 73-78-83-91-96-103 repetitions A.1 of 4 stitches).
Arrow-8: Increase 8-12-8-12-12-16 stitches evenly = 300-324-340-376-396-428 stitches (there is now room for 75-81-85-94-99-107 repetitions A.1 of 4 stitches).
Continue A.X without increases until piece measures 19-21-23-25-27-29 cm = 7 1/2”-8 1/4”-9”-9 3/4”-10 5/8”-11 3/8” from marker by the neck.
Now divide yoke for body and sleeves, i.e. work last round as follows: Work 45-49-51-56-61-67 stitches as before (= ½ back piece), slip the next 60-64-68-76-76-80 stitches on 1 stitch holder for sleeve, cast on 8-8-12-12-16-16 new stitches on row (= in the side under sleeve), work 90-98-102-112-122-134 stitches as before (= front piece), slip the next 60-64-68-76-76-80 stitches on 1 stitch holder for sleeve, cast on 8-8-12-12-16-16 new stitches on row (= in the side under sleeve) and work the 45-49-51-56-61-67 stitches as before (= ½ back piece). Cut the yarn. Finish body and sleeves separately. NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE!

BODY:
= 196-212-228-248-276-300 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread in the middle of the 8-8-12-12-16-16 stitches under sleeve in one side of piece. Begin round at marker thread and continue A.X as before (make sure to start on correct round according to where yoke was finished).
When piece measures approx. 3 cm = 1 1/8” from division, decrease 4 stitch evenly (decrease on a unicolored round with wine red). Decrease like this approx. every 6 cm = 2 3/8” 5 times in total = 176-192-208-228-256-280 stitches. Work until piece measures approx. 36 cm = 14 1/4” from division, but adjust to finish after one whole stripe with off white (approx. 4 cm = 1 1/2” remain before finished measurements, try the sweater on and work to desired length).
Switch to circular needle size 3 mm = US 2,5. Knit 1 round with wine red while increasing 48-52-56-60-68-72 stitches evenly = 224-244-264-288-324-352 stitches (increase to avoid the rib to be worked from contracting).
Work rib in the round = knit 2/purl 2 for 4 cm = 1 1/2”. Bind off with knit over knit and purl over purl - read BIND-OFF TIP. Sweater measures approx. 62-64-66-68-70-72 cm = 24 3/8"-25 1/4"-26"-26 3/4"-27 1/2"-28 3/8” from shoulder and down.

SLEEVE:
Slip the 60-64-68-76-76-80 stitches from stitch holder in one side of piece on double pointed needles or a short circular needle size 4 mm = US 6 and pick in addition up 1 stitch in each of the 8-8-12-12-16-16 new stitches cast on under sleeve = 68-72-80-88-92-96 stitches.
Insert 1 marker thread in the middle of the 8-8-12-12-16-16 stitches under sleeve and move the marker thread upwards when working. Use marker later when decreasing mid under sleeve.
Begin round at marker thread and work A.X in the round (make sure to start on correct round according to where yoke was finished).
When sleeve measures approx. 6-6-6-4-4-4 cm = 2 3/8”-2 3/8”-2 3/8”-1 1/2”-1 1/2”-1 1/2” from division, decrease 2 stitches mid under sleeve - read DECREASE TIP! Decrease like this every 3-3-2-2-1½-1½ cm = 1 1/8”-1 1/8”-3/4”-3/4”-1/2”-1/2” 12-12-16-18-20-20 times in total = 44-48-48-52-52-56 stitches. Work until sleeve measures approx. 45-44-42-41-39-39 cm = 17 3/4”-17 1/4”-16 1/2”-16 1/8”-15 1/4”-15 1/4”, but adjust to finish after one whole stripe with off white (approx. 4 cm = 1 1/2” remain before finished measurements, try the sweater on and work to desired length). NOTE! Shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of wider neck and longer yoke.
Switch to double pointed needles size 3 mm = US 2,5. Knit 1 round while increasing 12-8-12-8-12-12 stitches evenly = 56-56-60-60-64-68 stitches. Work rib in the round = knit 2/purl 2 for 4 cm = 1 1/2”. Bind off with knit over knit and purl over purl - remember BIND-OFF TIP! Sleeve measures approx. 49-48-46-45-43-43 cm = 19 1/4”-19”-18”-17 3/4”-17”-17” from division. Work the other sleeve the same way.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

= wine red / red
= off white / off white
= increase round


Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 208-5) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (1)

Milena 19.06.2020 - 21:56:

Domnívám se, že v návodu je překlep. V části "zvýšení zadního průkrčníku" je napsáno u velikosti L, že máme úplně ke konci přidat 48 ok. To nedává smysl. Myslím, že by to mělo být 84 ok.

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