DROPS Sky
DROPS Sky
74% Alpaca, 18% Polyamide, 8% Wool
from 7.20 $ /50g
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 21.60$. Read more.

Sky Stripes Jumper

Knitted sweater with stripes for kids in DROPS Sky. Piece is knitted top down with raglan and textured pattern. Size 2-12 years

DROPS Children 34-21
DROPS design: Pattern sk-010-bn
Yarn group B
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SIZE: 2 - 3/4 - 5/6 - 7/8 - 9/10 - 11/12 years
Size equals approx. child’s height in cm:
92 - 98/104 - 110/116 - 122/128 - 134/140 - 146/152
Size equals approx. child’s height in feet:
3ft – 3ft3/3ft5 – 3ft7/3ft9 – 4ft/4ft2 – 4ft5/4ft7 – 4ft9/4ft12

Finished measurements:
Chest measurements: 64-68-72-76-80-84 cm = 25 1/4”-26 3/4”-28 3/8”-30”-31 1/2”-33”
Full length: 33-36-40-44-48-52 cm = 13”-14 1/4”-15 3/4”-17 1/4”-19”-20 1/2”


MATERIALS:
DROPS SKY from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
100-100-100-100-100-150 g color 13, light jeans blue
50-50-50-100-100-100 g color 01, white

KNITTING GAUGE:
21 stitches in width and 28 rows vertically in stockinette stitch = 10 x 10 cm = 4” x 4”.

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 4 mm = US 6
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4 mm = US 6: Length 40 and 60 or 80 cm = 16” and 24” or 32”.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3 mm = US 2,5 for rib
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3 mm = US 2,5: Length 40 and 60 or 80 cm = 16” and 24” or 32” for rib.
Needle size is only a suggestion! If you have too many stitches on 10 cm = 4” switch to larger needles. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm = 4” switch to smaller needles.

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Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Sky
DROPS Sky
74% Alpaca, 18% Polyamide, 8% Wool
from 7.20 $ /50g
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 21.60$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
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EXPLANATION FOR THE PATTERN:

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STRIPES AND PATTERN:
Work piece in pattern A.1 and A.2 – AT THE SAME TIME work stripes as follows:
* Work 3 cm = 1 1/8” light jeans blue (including neck edge), and work 2 cm = 3/4” white * – repeat these color stripes until 5-5-6-7-8-9 stripes with white have been worked on yoke/body and 6-7-8-9-10-10 stripes white on yoke/sleeve. Then work with light jeans blue until finished measurements.

INCREASE TIP (evenly spaced):
To calculate how to increase evenly, use total number of stitches on round (i.e. (i.e. 138 stitches) and divide with number of increases to be done (e.g. 26) = 5.3. In this example increase after approx. every 5th stitch by making 1 yarn over. On next round work yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.

RAGLAN:
Increase on each side of the 4 stitches with markers on every other round. Increase by making 1 yarn over on each side of stitch with marker, on next round work yarn over twisted to avoid holes. Work the increased stitches in pattern when increasing.

DECREASE TIP (applies to sleeves):
Decrease 1 stitch on each side of marker thread as follows: Work until 3 stitches remain before marker thread, slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked, knit 2 (marker thread is in the middle of these stitches), knit the next 2 stitches together.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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SWEATER - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
Yoke and body are worked in the round, top down. Work sleeves in the round on double pointed needles.

YOKE:
Cast on 84-88-92-96-100-104 stitches on circular needle size 3 mm = US 2,5 with light jeans blue. Work rib in the round with knit 2/purl 2. When piece measures approx. 1 cm = 3/8”, switch to circular needle size 4 mm = US 6. Knit 1 round while increasing 8-8-8-8-8-8 stitches evenly = 92-96-100-104-108-112 stitches. Purl 1 round.

Now insert 4 markers for RAGLAN in the piece without working as follows: Insert 1st marker in the 1st stitch on round, insert 2nd marker in the 33rd-35th-37th-39th-41st-43rd stitch, insert 3rd marker in the 47th-49th-51st-53rd-55th-57th stitch, insert 4th marker in the 79th-83rd-87th-91st-95th-99th stitch. Then work STRIPES AND PATTERN - read explanation above, and read the entire section before continuing.

Work as follows from beginning of round: Work 1 stitch in stockinette stitch, make 1 yarn over, work A.1 over the next 30-32-34-36-38-40 stitches, work A.2 over 1 stitch, make 1 yarn over and work 1 stitch in stockinette stitch (= back piece). Make 1 yarn over, work A.1 over the next 12 stitches, work A.2 over 1 stitch, make 1 yarn over and work 1 stitch in stockinette stitch (= sleeve). Make 1 yarn over. Work A.1 over the next 30-32-34-36-38-40 stitches, work A.2 over 1 stitch, make 1 yarn over and work 1 stitch in stockinette stitch (= front piece). Make 1 yarn over, work A.1 over the next 12 stitches, work A.2 over 1 stitch, and make 1 yarn over (= sleeve). First increase for raglan is now done (= 8 stitches increased). REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE!
Continue with stripes and pattern and increases for raglan until you have increased a total of 15-16-17-18-19-20 times = 212-224-236-248-260-272 stitches. Continue with pattern and stripes until piece measures 13-14-15-16-17-18 cm = 5 1/8”-5 1/2”-6”-6 1/4”-6 3/4”-7” from cast-on edge. On next round divide piece for body and sleeves as follows:
Work 63-67-71-75-79-83 stitches in pattern as before (= back piece), slip the next 43-45-47-49-51-53 stitches on a stitch holder for sleeve and cast on 6 stitches in the side under sleeve, work 63-67-71-75-79-83 stitches in stockinette stitch (= front piece), slip the next 43-45-47-49-51-53 stitches on a stitch holder for sleeve and cast on 6 stitches under sleeve = 138-146-154-162-170-178 stitches.

BODY:
Continue with pattern and stripes as before. When piece measures 17-19-22-25-28-31 cm = 6 3/4”-7 1/2”-8 3/4”-9 3/4”-11”-12 1/4” from division, knit 1 round while increasing 26-30-34-34-38-38 stitches evenly - read INCREASE TIP = 164-176-188-196-208-216 stitches. Switch to circular needle size 3 mm = US 2,5. Work rib with purl 2/knit 2 until piece measures 19-21-24-27-30-33 cm = 7 1/2”-8 1/4”-9 1/2”-10 5/8”-11 3/4”-13” from division – use if needed a thicker needle to bind off to avoid a tight edge. Sweater measures approx. 33-36-40-44-48-52 cm = 13”-14 1/4”-15 3/4”-17 1/4”-19”-20 1/2”, measured from shoulder and down.

SLEEVE:
Slip the 43-45-47-49-51-53 stitches from stitch holder in one side of piece on double pointed needles size 4 mm = US 6 and pick up 1 new stitch in each of the 6 stitches cast on under sleeve = 49-51-53-55-57-59 stitches. Work in the round and continue pattern A.1 and stripes as before. Insert 1 marker thread mid under sleeve. When sleeve measures 2 cm = 3/4” from where sleeve was divided from body, decrease 1 stitch on each side of marker thread (= 2 stitches decreased) - read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every 4-4-5-5-7-6 cm = 1 1/2”-1 1/2”-2”-2”-2 3/4”-2 3/8” 5-6-5-6-5-6 times in total = 39-39-43-43-47-47 stitches. Work until piece measures 19-23-27-31-35-38 cm = 7 1/2”-9”-10 5/8”-12 1/4”-13 3/4”-15” from division. Knit 1 round and decrease 3-3-3-3-3-3 stitches evenly = 36-36-40-40-44-44 stitches. Switch to double pointed needles size 3 mm = US 2,5 and work rib with knit 2/purl 2. Bind off by knitting when sleeve measures 23-27-31-35-39-42 cm = 9”-10 5/8”-12 1/4”-13 3/4”-15 1/4”-16 1/2” from division – use if needed a thicker needle to bind off to avoid a tight edge.

Work the other sleeve the same way.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = knit
symbols = purl
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (25)

country flag Irene wrote:

Hej ! Jag får inte mönstret korrekt efter att ha ökat 6 maskor under armen när jag fortsätter att sticka så blir det ex två rätta brevid varandra efter ökningarna.

23.11.2023 - 17:42

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Irene, jo men det vil ændre sig når du tager ud næste gang. Det som er vigtigt er at de nye masker strikkes ind i det mønster som allerede findes :)

24.11.2023 - 15:01

country flag Silvia wrote:

Nel raglan, lavorando l’aumento sotto il ritorto con l’A1, e quindi con un rovescio, il motivo viene sfalsato non a “coste” come dovrebbe.

06.11.2022 - 17:03

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Silvia, le istruzioni sono corrette, non ci sono correzioni in merito. Buon lavoro!

13.11.2022 - 00:20

country flag Ulrike Aksoy wrote:

Ich möchte den Pulli in 4 Teile stricken also keine passe. Gibt es eine Anleitung?

12.02.2022 - 20:00

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Aksoy, leider können wir nicht jede Anleitung nach jeder Anfrage umrechnen. Hier finden Sie unsere Modellen für Kinderpullover mit angenähten Ärmel, sicher können Sie sich davon inspirieren lassen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

14.02.2022 - 09:42

country flag Laura wrote:

I 18 cm (per la taglia più grande) prima di dividere il lavoro vanno misurati comprendendo il bordo a coste? Grazie

30.01.2022 - 10:45

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Laura, si, le misure si prendono dal bordo di avvio. Buon lavoro!

30.01.2022 - 20:03

country flag Julia wrote:

Casting on only 6 stitches for the underarms results in the pattern being incorrect so I added an extra stitch.

26.12.2021 - 18:06

country flag Thea wrote:

Ik kom niet uit met het patroon na het wegzetten van de steken voor de mouwen. Dit geldt zowel voor het lijf als de mouwen. De mouwen beginnen en eindigen met een rechte, het voor- en achterpand met een averechte, waardoor dit niet op elkaar aansluit. Dit is ook logisch als je een oneven aantal steken apart zet. Hoe is dit het beste op te lossen?

16.11.2021 - 11:20

country flag Thea wrote:

Ik kom niet uit met het patroon na het wegzetten van de steken voor de mouwen. Dit geldt zowel voor het lijf als de mouwen. De mouwen beginnen en eindigen met een rechte, het voor- en achterpand met een averechte, waardoor dit niet op elkaar aansluit. Dit is ook logisch als je een oneven aantal steken apart zet. Hoe is dit het beste op te lossen?

15.11.2021 - 21:25

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Thea,

Dat is inderdaad niet fraai. Voor het lijf zou je in de eerste of tweede naald twee steken kunnen samen breien in de beide zijnaden om vervolgens het patroon weer te hervatten.

26.11.2021 - 17:24

country flag RAQUEL ALVES wrote:

No diagrama do raglan para 9/10 a medida diz 16cm incluindo aumentos e na receita 17cm, qual está certo?

11.05.2021 - 14:16

DROPS Design answered:

Bom dia, Sim, está certo, porque na receita, indica que separa o corpo a partir da carreira de montagem das malhas. 16 cm + 1 cm (da gola) do diagrama = 17 cm na receita. Bons tricôs!

12.05.2021 - 11:20

country flag Fleur wrote:

Ik ben aangeland bij de onderkant van het lijf. U zou ik 38 steken moeten meerderen, voordat je de boord breit. Dat lijkt mij erg veel, ondanks dat je overstapt op een dunnere naald. Klopt dit??

26.04.2021 - 10:16

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Fleur,

Ja, het is inderdaad de bedoeling om 38 steken te meerderen.

29.04.2021 - 14:45

country flag Danyelle Lauzé wrote:

Excusez-moi je parlais de la fin du premier paragraphe de la section "Empiècement". Il est bien écrit ds faire un tour à l'envers, mais l'effet que donne ce rang est assez apparent et je ne vois pas la même effet sur le modèle de la photo. Est-ce normal?

19.04.2021 - 11:45

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Lauzé, ce tour envers, combiné au tour endroit précédent où l'on va augmenter à intervalles réguliers, vont former 1 côte mousse entre les côtes du col et le début du raglan de l'empiècement. Cette côte mousse n'est effectivement pas réalisée pour le pull femme; à vous de décider si vous préférez la faire pour marquer le col/l'empiècement ou plutôt ne pas la faire et passer directement au raglan et au point fantaisie. Bon tricot!

19.04.2021 - 13:09