Sky Stripes Jumper by DROPS Design

Knitted jumper with stripes for kids in DROPS Sky. Piece is knitted top down with raglan and textured pattern. Size 2-12 years

DROPS design: Pattern sk-010-bn
Yarn group B

SIZE: 2 - 3/4 - 5/6 - 7/8 - 9/10 - 11/12 years
Size equals approx. child’s height in cm: 
92 - 98/104 - 110/116 - 122/128 - 134/140 - 146/152 

DROPS SKY from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
100-100-100-100-100-150 g colour 13, light jeans blue
50-50-50-100-100-100 g colour 01, white

21 stitches in width and 28 rows vertically in stocking stitch = 10 x 10 cm.

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4 mm: Length 40 and 60 or 80 cm.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3 mm: Length 40 and 60 or 80 cm for rib.
Needle size is only a suggestion! If you have too many stitches on 10 cm switch to larger needles. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm switch to smaller needles.


Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!

74% Alpaca, 18% Polyamide, 8% Wool
from 4.90 £ /50g
DROPS Sky uni colour DROPS Sky uni colour 4.90 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
DROPS Sky mix DROPS Sky mix 4.90 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 14.70£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.



Work piece in pattern A.1 and A.2 – AT THE SAME TIME work stripes as follows:
* Work 3 cm light jeans blue (including neck edge), and work 2 cm white * – repeat these colour stripes until 5-5-6-7-8-9 stripes with white have been worked on yoke/body and 6-7-8-9-10-10 stripes white on yoke/sleeve. Then work with light jeans blue until finished measurements.

INCREASE TIP (evenly spaced):
To calculate how to increase evenly, use total number of stitches on round (i.e. (i.e. 138 stitches) and divide with number of increases to be done (e.g. 26) = 5.3. In this example increase after approx. every 5th stitch by making 1 yarn over. On next round work yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.

Increase on each side of the 4 stitches with markers on every other round. Increase by making 1 yarn over on each side of stitch with marker, on next round work yarn over twisted to avoid holes. Work the increased stitches in pattern when increasing.

DECREASE TIP (applies to sleeves): 
Decrease 1 stitch on each side of marker thread as follows: Work until 3 stitches remain before marker thread, slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked, knit 2 (marker thread is in the middle of these stitches), knit the next 2 stitches together.




Yoke and body are worked in the round, top down. Work sleeves in the round on double pointed needles.

Cast on 84-88-92-96-100-104 stitches on circular needle size 3 mm with light jeans blue. Work rib in the round with knit 2/purl 2. When piece measures approx. 1 cm, switch to circular needle size 4 mm. Knit 1 round while increasing 8-8-8-8-8-8 stitches evenly = 92-96-100-104-108-112 stitches. Purl 1 round.

Now insert 4 markers for RAGLAN in the piece without working as follows: Insert 1st marker in the 1st stitch on round, insert 2nd marker in the 33rd-35th-37th-39th-41st-43rd stitch, insert 3rd marker in the 47th-49th-51st-53rd-55th-57th stitch, insert 4th marker in the 79th-83rd-87th-91st-95th-99th stitch. Then work STRIPES AND PATTERN - read explanation above, and read the entire section before continuing.

Work as follows from beginning of round: Work 1 stitch in stocking stitch, make 1 yarn over, work A.1 over the next 30-32-34-36-38-40 stitches, work A.2 over 1 stitch, make 1 yarn over and work 1 stitch in stocking stitch (= back piece). Make 1 yarn over, work A.1 over the next 12 stitches, work A.2 over 1 stitch, make 1 yarn over and work 1 stitch in stocking stitch (= sleeve). Make 1 yarn over. Work A.1 over the next 30-32-34-36-38-40 stitches, work A.2 over 1 stitch, make 1 yarn over and work 1 stitch in stocking stitch (= front piece). Make 1 yarn over, work A.1 over the next 12 stitches, work A.2 over 1 stitch, and make 1 yarn over (= sleeve). First increase for raglan is now done (= 8 stitches increased). REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
Continue with stripes and pattern and increases for raglan until you have increased a total of 15-16-17-18-19-20 times = 212-224-236-248-260-272 stitches. Continue with pattern and stripes until piece measures 13-14-15-16-17-18 cm from cast-on edge. On next round divide piece for body and sleeves as follows:
Work 63-67-71-75-79-83 stitches in pattern as before (= back piece), slip the next 43-45-47-49-51-53 stitches on a stitch holder for sleeve and cast on 6 stitches in the side under sleeve, work 63-67-71-75-79-83 stitches in stocking stitch (= front piece), slip the next 43-45-47-49-51-53 stitches on a stitch holder for sleeve and cast on 6 stitches under sleeve = 138-146-154-162-170-178 stitches. 

Continue with pattern and stripes as before. When piece measures 17-19-22-25-28-31 cm from division, knit 1 round while increasing 26-30-34-34-38-38 stitches evenly - read INCREASE TIP = 164-176-188-196-208-216 stitches. Switch to circular needle size 3 mm. Work rib with purl 2/knit 2 until piece measures 19-21-24-27-30-33 cm from division – use if needed a thicker needle to cast off to avoid a tight edge. Jumper measures approx. 33-36-40-44-48-52 cm, measured from shoulder and down.

Slip the 43-45-47-49-51-53 stitches from stitch holder in one side of piece on double pointed needles size 4 mm and pick up 1 new stitch in each of the 6 stitches cast on under sleeve = 49-51-53-55-57-59 stitches. Work in the round and continue pattern A.1 and stripes as before. Insert 1 marker thread mid under sleeve. When sleeve measures 2 cm from where sleeve was divided from body, decrease 1 stitch on each side of marker thread (= 2 stitches decreased) - read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every 4-4-5-5-7-6 cm 5-6-5-6-5-6 times in total = 39-39-43-43-47-47 stitches. Work until piece measures 19-23-27-31-35-38 cm from division. Knit 1 round and decrease 3-3-3-3-3-3 stitches evenly = 36-36-40-40-44-44 stitches. Switch to double pointed needles size 3 mm and work rib with knit 2/purl 2. Cast off by knitting when sleeve measures 23-27-31-35-39-42 cm from division – use if needed a thicker needle to cast off to avoid a tight edge.

Work the other sleeve the same way.


= knit
= purl

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS Children 34-21) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (11)

Marietta 03.11.2020 - 21:29:

Wie wird das Muster gestrickt? Alles im A1? Ist A2 nur für Raglanzunahme?

DROPS Design 04.11.2020 kl. 09:28:

Liebe Marietta, A.1 wird in der Breite wiederholt und wenn die Maschenanzahl ungerade ist, dann enden Sie mit A.2 = so ist das Muster symetrisch. Das Muster wird immer so gestrickt: 1 Masche kraus rechts (= 1. Masche in A.1/A.2), 1 Masche glatt rechts (= 2. Masche in A.1). Raglanzunahmen werden beidseitig von jeder von den glatt rechts gestrickten Maschen mit 1 Markierung. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Outi Svenn 20.09.2020 - 05:25:

Onko siis kyseessä yksi oikein ,helmineule,yksi oikein,helmineule jne...(helmineule n,o,n)

DROPS Design 21.09.2020 kl. 16:48:

Hei, kyseessä on tunturineule, jossa neulotaan vuorotellen 1 kerros 1 o, 1 n, ja 1 kerros oikein.

Jenny Strick 13.09.2020 - 21:42:

Ich komme mit der Musterfortführung nach der Stilllegung der Armmaschen nicht zurecht. Ich lege eine in gerade Anzahl an Maschen still und schlage eine gerade Anzahl neu an. Somit ist das Muster nicht durchgängig fortführbahr.

DROPS Design 14.09.2020 kl. 09:22:

Liebe Frau Strick, die Maschen, die bei der Passe glatt rechts getrickt wurden, werden jetzt im Muster gestrick, jetzt ist die Musteranzahl wieder gerade, dh das Muster stricken wie zuvor: die Krausrechts Maschen (1. Masche in A.1 + A.2) abwechslungsweise rechts und links und die glatt gestrickte Maschen rechts (= die 2. Masche in A.1). Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Monika Wirtz 30.06.2020 - 15:33:

Danke für die schnelle Antwort. Nichtsdestotrotz sollten Sie in der Anleitung die Maschenprobenangabe : glatt rechts in Muster ändern.

Monika Wirtz 24.06.2020 - 10:05:

Die Maschenprobe, glatt rechts, soll 21 Maschen und 28 Reihen auf 10 cm ergeben. Wenn man aber das Muster strickt, wird das Gestrickte enger, und bei mir ergibt sich eine Maschenprobe von 24 M / 34 R. Dadurch stimmen jegliche Angaben in der Anleitung nicht mehr! Bitte überprüfen Sie dies.

DROPS Design 24.06.2020 kl. 14:13:

Liebe Frau Wirtz, die Maschenprobe in der Breite soll immer 21 Maschen = 10 cm im Muster (A.1 = 1 Masche Krausrechts, 1 Masche glatt rechts) - versuchen Sie noch mal mit anderen Nadeln - hier lesen Sie mehr über die Maschenprobe. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Manoa 08.04.2020 - 23:23:

Bonjour, Je me suis finalement lancée en Muskat mais ne comprends pas l'enchaînement entre A1 et A2 pour les rangs des augmentations raglan : dans la mesure où le nombre de mailles croît chaque rang, quand faire une maille A2, svp ? Merci beaucoup.

DROPS Design 09.04.2020 kl. 17:34:

Bonjour Manoa, A.2 permet simplement de terminer le motif sur un nombre impair de mailles: on répète d'abord A.1 et on termine par A.2, ainsi le motif commence et se termine par la même maille sur le nombre de mailles concerné entre les jetés. Bon tricot!

Manoa 07.04.2020 - 07:45:

Bonjour, Je compte faire ce pull avec des restes de Muskat. Cette laine se prête-t-elle aux point A1 et A2 ou est-il préférable que je tricote en jersey, svp ? Merci de vos conseils, bonne journée.

DROPS Design 09.04.2020 kl. 15:18:

Bonjour Manoa, Muskat et Sky sont toutes les deux du groupe de fils B, donc vous pouvez tout à fait utiliser Muskat, utilisez notre convertisseur pour connaître les quantités requises - Tous les points sont réalisables avec tous les fils, et ce modèle est expliqué sur la base de ces points fantaisie; tricotez un échantillon avec A.1 et A.2 pour voir le rendu. Bon tricot!

Liesbeth 24.03.2020 - 10:09:

Goede morgen, voor de mouw staan 59 steken incl de 6 opgehaalde steken. als je A1 breidt heb je een even aantal steken nodig om uit te komen toch? hoe los je dit op en waar is het het beste om de ronde te beginnen? alvast dank voor uw antwoord! vriendelijke groeten Liesbeth

Anna 19.03.2020 - 12:44:

Hallo, als de meerderingen van de raglan klaar zijn, brei je dan verder ZONDER meerderingen tot het werk genoeg cm meet? Groeten Anna

DROPS Design 25.03.2020 kl. 10:24:

Dag Anna,

Ja dat klopt; nadat de meerderingen klaar zijn brei je door tot de gewenste lengte van de pas.

Helén 07.01.2020 - 21:32:

Hej! Söker efter beskrivning, tröjan är stickad i rosa, flickan sitter på en gunghäst. Mönstret är liknande patentstickning, blir liksom randigt. Har bara ärmar kvar att sticka. Hoppas på hjälp! Med vänlig hälsning, Helén

DROPS Design 29.01.2020 kl. 11:25:

Hej Jag känner inte igen att vi har ett sådant mönster, men du kan alltid söka på alla mönster vi har i rosa på baby/barn för att se om det kommer upp. Mvh DROPS Design

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