Sky Stripes Jacket by DROPS Design

Knitted jacket with stripes for kids in DROPS Sky. Piece is knitted top down with raglan and textured pattern. Size 2-12 years

  • Sky Stripes Jacket / DROPS Children 34-20 - Knitted jacket with stripes for kids in DROPS Sky. Piece is knitted top down with raglan and textured pattern. Size 2-12 years
  • Sky Stripes Jacket / DROPS Children 34-20 - Knitted jacket with stripes for kids in DROPS Sky. Piece is knitted top down with raglan and textured pattern. Size 2-12 years
DROPS design: Pattern sk-009-bn
Yarn group B
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SIZE: 2 - 3/4 - 5/6 - 7/8 - 9/10 - 11/12 years
Size equals approx. child’s height in cm:
92 - 98/104 - 110/116 - 122/128 - 134/140 - 146/152
Size equals approx. child’s height in feet:
3ft – 3ft3/3ft5 – 3ft7/3ft9 – 4ft/4ft2 – 4ft5/4ft7 – 4ft9/4ft12

Finished measurements:
Chest measurements: 64-68-72-76-80-84 cm = 25 1/4”-26 3/4”-28 3/8”-30”-31 1/2”-33”
Full length: 33-36-40-44-48-52 cm = 13”-14 1/4”-15 3/4”-17 1/4”-19”-20 1/2”

All measurements in charts are in cm.

MATERIALS:
DROPS SKY from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
100-100-100-100-100-150 g color 13, light jeans blue
50-50-50-100-100-100 g color 01, white

KNITTING GAUGE:
21 stitches in width and 28 rows vertically in stockinette stitch = 10 x 10 cm = 4” x 4”.

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 4 mm = US 6 for stockinette stitch.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4 mm = US 6: Length 40 and 60 or 80 cm = 16” and 24” or 32” for stockinette stitch.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3 mm = US 2,5 for rib
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3 mm = US 2,5: Length 40 and 60 or 80 cm = 16” and 24” or 32” for rib.
Needle size is only a suggestion! If you have too many stitches on 10 cm = 4” switch to larger needles. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm = 4” switch to smaller needles.

DROPS WOOD BUTTONS (Oak) NO 503: 5-5-6-6-7-7 pieces

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Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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74% Alpaca, 18% Polyamide, 8% Wool
from 8.40 $ /50g
DROPS Sky uni colour DROPS Sky uni colour 8.40 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
Order
DROPS Sky mix DROPS Sky mix 8.40 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
Order
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 25.20$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
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EXPLANATION FOR THE PATTERN:

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GARTER STITCH (back and forth):
1 ridge = knit 2 rows.

STRIPES AND PATTERN:
Work piece in pattern A.1, A.2 and A.3 – AT THE SAME TIME work stripes as follows:
* Work 3 cm = 1 1/8” light jeans blue (including neck edge), and then 2 cm = 3/4” white * – repeat these color stripes until 5-5-6-7-8-9 stripes with white have been worked on yoke/body and 6-7-8-9-10-10 stripes white on yoke/sleeve. Then work with light jeans blue until finished measurements.

INCREASE TIP (evenly spaced):
To calculate how to increase evenly, use the total number of stitches on row (e.g. 141 stitches), minus bands (= 131 stitches) and divide the stitches by number of increases to be done (e.g. 27) = 4.8. In this example increase after approx. every 5th stitch by making 1 yarn over and do not increase over bands. On next row work yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.

RAGLAN:
Increase on each side of the 4 stitches with markers on every row from right side as follows: Make 1 yarn over, work 1 stitch in stockinette stitch (= stitch with marker), make 1 yarn over. On next row purl yarn over twisted to avoid holes. Work the increased stitches in pattern when increasing.

DECREASE TIP (applies to sleeves):
Decrease 1 stitch on each side of marker thread as follows: Work until 3 stitches remain before marker thread, slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked, knit 2 (marker thread is in the middle of these stitches), knit the next 2 stitches together.

BUTTONHOLES:
Decrease for buttonholes on right band (when garment is worn). Decrease from right side when 3 stitches remain on row as follows: Make 1 yarn over, knit the next 2 stitches together, knit last stitch. On next row knit yarn over to make holes. Decrease first buttonhole when piece measures approx. 1 cm = 3/8”. Then decrease the next 4-4-5-5-6-6 buttonholes approx. every 6-7-6½-7-7-7½ cm = 2 3/8”-2 3/4”-2 1/2”-2 3/4”-2 3/4”-3”.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JACKET - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
Yoke and body are worked back and forth, top down. Work sleeves in the round on double pointed needles.

YOKE:
Cast on 88-92-96-100-104-108 stitches (including 5 band stitches in each side of piece) on circular needle size 3 mm = US 2,5 with light jeans blue. Work 5 band stitches in GARTER STITCH – read explanation above, work rib (= knit 2 / purl 2) until 7 stitches remain, knit 2 and 5 band stitches in garter stitch. When piece measures approx. 1 cm = 3/8”, switch to circular needle size 4 mm = US 6 and decrease for BUTTONHOLES – read explanation above.
Knit 1 row from right side while increasing evenly 7-5-7-5-7-5 stitches = 95-97-103-105-111-113 stitches. Knit 1 row from wrong side.

Now insert 4 markers for RAGLAN in the piece without working as follows: Insert 1st marker in the 18th-18th-20th-20th-22nd-22nd stitch, insert 2nd marker in the 32nd-32nd-34th-34th-36th-36th stitch, insert 3rd marker in the 64th-66th-70th-72nd-76th-78th stitch, insert 4th marker in the 78th-80th-84th-86th-90th-92nd stitch.
then work STRIPES AND PATTERN with 5 band stitches in garter stitch in each side - read explanation above, and read the entire section before continuing.

Work as follows from right side: Work 5 band stitches in garter stitch, work A.1 over 1 stitch, work A.2 over the next 10-10-12-12-14-14 stitches, work A.3 over 1 stitch, make 1 yarn over, 1 stitch in stockinette stitch, make 1 yarn over (= increase for raglan). Work A.2 over the next 12 stitches, work A.3 over 1 stitch, make 1 yarn over, 1 stitch in stockinette stitch, make 1 yarn over (= increase for raglan). Work A.2 over the next 30-32-34-36-38-40 stitches, work A.3 over 1 stitch, make 1 yarn over, 1 stitch in stockinette stitch, make 1 yarn over (= increase for raglan). Work A.2 over the next 12 stitches, work A.3 over 1 stitch, make 1 yarn over, 1 stitch in stockinette stitch, make 1 yarn over (= increase for raglan). Work A.2 over the next 12-12-14-14-16-16 stitches and 5 band stitches in garter stitch. First increase for raglan is now done (= 8 stitches increased).
Work from wrong side as follows: Work 5 band stitches in garter stitch, work pattern according to A.1/A.2/A.3 (purl all rows from wrong side in diagram) until 5 stitches remain, and work 5 band stitches in garter stitch. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE! Continue with stripes and pattern and increases for raglan until you have increased a total of 15-16-17-18-19-20 times = 215-225-239-249-263-273 stitches.
Continue with pattern and stripes until piece measures 13-14-15-16-17-18 cm = 5 1/8”-5 1/2”-6”-6 1/4”-6 3/4”-7” from cast-on edge.
On next row divide piece for body and sleeves as follows:
Work 5 band stitches in garter stitch, 28-29-32-33-36-37 stitches in pattern as before (= front piece), slip the next 43-45-47-49-51-53 stitches on a stitch holder for sleeve and cast on 6 stitches in the side under sleeve, work 63-67-71-75-79-83 stitches in pattern as before (= back piece), slip the next 43-45-47-49-51-53 stitches on a stitch holder for sleeve and cast on 6 stitches under sleeve, work 28-29-32-33-36-37 stitches in pattern as before and finish with 5 band stitches in garter stitch (= front piece) = 141-147-157-163-173-179 stitches.

BODY:
Continue with pattern, stripes and band stitches as before. NOTE: When 5-5-6-7-8-9 stripes with white have been worked in total, work the rest of the piece in light jeans blue. When piece measures 17-19-22-25-28-31 cm = 6 3/4”-7 1/2”-8 3/4”-9 3/4”-11”-12 1/4” from division, knit 1 row from right side while increasing 27-33-31-37-39-41 stitches evenly - read INCREASE TIP = 168-180-188-200-212-220 stitches. Switch to circular needle size 3 mm = US 2,5. Work next row from wrong side as follows: Work 5 band stitches in garter stitch, work rib (= knit 2 / purl 2) until 7 stitches remain, purl 2 and 5 band stitches in garter stitch. Bind off by knitting from right side when piece measures 19-21-24-27-30-33 cm = 7 1/2”-8 1/4”-9 1/2”-10 5/8”-11 3/4”-13” from division – use if needed a thicker needle to bind off to avoid a tight edge. Jacket measures approx. 33-36-40-44-48-52 cm = 13”-14 1/4”-15 3/4”-17 1/4”-19”-20 1/2”, measured from shoulder and down.

SLEEVE:
Slip the 43-45-47-49-51-53 stitches from stitch holder in one side of piece on double pointed needles size 4 mm = US 6 and pick up 1 new stitch in each of the 6 stitches cast on under sleeve = 49-51-53-55-57-59 stitches. Work in the round and continue pattern and stripes as before. Insert 1 marker thread mid under sleeve. When sleeve measures 2 cm = 3/4” from where sleeve was divided from body, decrease 1 stitch on each side of marker thread (= 2 stitches decreased) - read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every 4-4-5-5-7-6 cm = 1 1/2”-1 1/2”-2”-2”-2 3/4”-2 3/8” 5-6-5-6-5-6 times in total = 39-39-43-43-47-47 stitches. NOTE: When 6-7-8-9-10-10 stripes with white have been worked in total, work the rest of the piece in light jeans blue. Work until piece measures 19-23-27-31-35-38 cm = 7 1/2”-9”-10 5/8”-12 1/4”-13 3/4”-15” from division. Knit 1 round and decrease 3-3-3-3-3-3 stitches evenly = 36-36-40-40-44-44 stitches. Switch to double pointed needles size 3 mm = US 2,5 and work rib with knit 2/purl 2. Bind off by knitting when sleeve measures 23-27-31-35-39-42 cm = 9”-10 5/8”-12 1/4”-13 3/4”-15 1/4”-16 1/2” from division – use if needed a thicker needle to bind off to avoid a tight edge.

Work the other sleeve the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the buttons on to the left band.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = knit from the right side, purl from the wrong side
symbols = purl from right side
diagram
signature

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS Children 34-20) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (32)

country flag Louise 19.09.2021 - 17:48:

Erreur dans ma question! Correction entre « » Bonjour, merci d’avoir répondu à ma première question. J’ai une seconde question: dans la diminution des manches, est-ce qu’on tricote toutes les 6 mailles autour du marqueur en mailles endroit? Et on continue ces « 4 MAILLES » endroit tout le long de la manche? Merci d’avance!

user icon DROPS Design 20.09.2021 kl. 11:05:

Est-ce que la réponse précédente a pu vous aider? Sinon n'hésitez pas à nous en faire part. Merci d'avance!

country flag Louise 19.09.2021 - 17:33:

Bonjour, merci d’avoir répondu à ma première question. J’ai une seconde question: dans la diminution des manches, est-ce qu’on tricote toutes les 6 mailles autour du marqueur en mailles endroit? Et on continue ces 6 mailles endroit tout le long de la manche? Merci d’avance!

user icon DROPS Design 20.09.2021 kl. 11:04:

Bonjour Louise, quand on termine les manches séparément (après la division), les 6 mailles relevées sous la manche vont se tricoter comme les autres mailles = en point fantaisie( alternativement 1 maille jersey, 1 maille point mousse), comme indiqué sous DIMINUTIONS (manches): , autrement dit, sur certains tours le motif ne tombera pas juste mais tous les 2 tours, le motif des côtes continuera tout le tour. Bon tricot!

country flag Louise 15.09.2021 - 17:05:

Bonjour Amina, lorsqu’on commence les côtes à la taille doit-on vraiment AUGMENTER le nombre de mailles? Est-ce une erreur car pour les côtés du cou il y avait MOINS de mailles que pour le corps. Merci!

user icon DROPS Design 16.09.2021 kl. 07:09:

Bonjour Louise, c'est correct ainsi, on a besoin que l'encolure soit une peu serrée, en revanche, on ne veut pas que le bas du gilet soit trop serré, et, comme il faut plus de mailles en côtes qu'en point texturé pour la même largeur, on va augmenter avant de tricoter les côtes du bas du gilet. Bon tricot!

country flag Lucia Bandirali 07.05.2021 - 07:13:

Buongiorno, vorrei sapere, quando si inizia con il nuovo colore, da dove inizio per avere un lavoro pulito e non vedere sulle 5 maglie a legaccio inizio del colore chiaro, ed evitare di nascondere fili, che si noterebbero comunque?

user icon DROPS Design 09.05.2021 kl. 17:08:

Buongiorno Lucia, per la lavorazione a strisce deve iniziare dal bordo, poi nasconderà i fili nella parte lavorata con quel colore. Buon lavoro!

country flag Jutta 21.02.2021 - 13:17:

Ich würde gern die Kinderjacke Sky Stripes mit Drops Baby Merino stricken. Kann ich das mit doppeltem Faden stricken? Baby Merino kann man in der Waschmaschine waschen Danke für ihre Antwort

user icon DROPS Design 22.02.2021 kl. 08:43:

Liebe Jutta, DROPS BabyMerino gehört zur Garngruppe A, wenn Sie doppelfädig stricken, dann bekommen Sie Garnguppe C aber Sky ist Garngruppe B - Merino Extra Fine könnne Sie aber stricken (auch Superwash - wie Karisma - benutzen Sie den Garnumrechner um die Alternative zu finden). Viel Spaß beim stricken!

country flag Ibtisam 02.01.2021 - 01:12:

Hi, I am running into a problem when I divide for body. After knitting 37 stitches in pattern for front I have a knit stitch, now I have 6 stitches that I had cast on under sleeve, this I do p1, k1 and end on knit stitch, so the next stitch should be purl but the first stitch among the 83 back stitches is a knit stitch. Also I am thinking I would run into the same problem in the sleeve as well, as the instructions say there will be 59 stitches but for a k1,p1 pattern I’ll need an odd number.

user icon DROPS Design 04.01.2021 kl. 15:09:

Dear Ibtisam, the raglan stitch (=last of the 37 sts) is now worked as the 1st stitch in A.2 so that pattern should now fit over the new stitches and at the transition over sleeves. Happy knitting!

country flag Lene 31.10.2020 - 22:09:

Hej, under bærestykke står der: Fortsæt med striber og mønster, og tag ud til raglan til der er taget ud totalt 15-16-17-18-19-20 gange = 215-225-239-249-263-273 masker. Mit spm er: hvor ofte tages der ud til raglan? Er det på hver 2. Pind - altså alle ret-pinde? Tak, hilsner Lene

country flag Jacqueline 06.10.2020 - 16:23:

Bonjour je n’ai toujours pas compris tricoter au dessus, ce n’est vraiment pas clair; combien de mailles pour chaque diagramme, je suis perdue, merci

user icon DROPS Design 06.10.2020 kl. 17:07:

Bonjour Jacqueline, quand vous devez tricoter un diagramme au-dessus d'une ou de plusieurs mailles, cela signifie que vous tricotez la maille ou les mailles indiqués comme dans les diagrammes cités. Le nombre de mailles tricotés en A.2 va dépendre de la taille. Bon tricot!

country flag Caroline Wallbank 21.09.2020 - 17:04:

I cannot make the raglan increases fit the number of stitches I cast on for the rib. It means the raglan is placed too far to one side. Surely there should be the same number of stitches for the front right and front left when the markers have been attached?

user icon DROPS Design 22.09.2020 kl. 11:13:

Dear Mrs Wallbank, there should be same number of sts on each front piece and on each sleeve - raglan increases are worked on each side of the stitch in stocking stitch(= raglan stitch), new stitches should be worked in pattern, ie 1 stitch in stocking st (= A.1 / 2,nd st in A.2)/1 stitch in garter stitch (1st st in A.2/A.3). You are welcome to tell more about size worked, row etc.. Happy knitting!

country flag Caroline Wallbank 19.09.2020 - 21:26:

The increases for the yoke in the smallest size don't work. Please could you clarify. Is there a mistake?

user icon DROPS Design 21.09.2020 kl. 09:37:

Dear Mrs Wallbank, what do you mean with "don't work"? Can you please tell us more? So that we can explain another way how to do. Thanks for your comprehension.

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