Cora by DROPS Design

Knitted doll with short pants and tube socks. The doll is worked top down in stockinette stitch with 2 strands DROPS BabyMerino or 1 strand DROPS Big Merino, and DROPS Cotton Merino. Short pants and tube socks are worked in rib with 1 strand DROPS BabyMerino.

Tags: dolls, toys,
  • Cora / DROPS Children 35-12 - Knitted doll with short pants and tube socks. The doll is worked top down in stockinette stitch with 2 strands DROPS BabyMerino or 1 strand DROPS Big Merino, and DROPS Cotton Merino. Short pants and tube socks are worked in rib with 1 strand DROPS BabyMerino.
  • Cora / DROPS Children 35-12 - Knitted doll with short pants and tube socks. The doll is worked top down in stockinette stitch with 2 strands DROPS BabyMerino or 1 strand DROPS Big Merino, and DROPS Cotton Merino. Short pants and tube socks are worked in rib with 1 strand DROPS BabyMerino.
  • Cora / DROPS Children 35-12 - Knitted doll with short pants and tube socks. The doll is worked top down in stockinette stitch with 2 strands DROPS BabyMerino or 1 strand DROPS Big Merino, and DROPS Cotton Merino. Short pants and tube socks are worked in rib with 1 strand DROPS BabyMerino.
  • Cora / DROPS Children 35-12 - Knitted doll with short pants and tube socks. The doll is worked top down in stockinette stitch with 2 strands DROPS BabyMerino or 1 strand DROPS Big Merino, and DROPS Cotton Merino. Short pants and tube socks are worked in rib with 1 strand DROPS BabyMerino.
  • Cora / DROPS Children 35-12 - Knitted doll with short pants and tube socks. The doll is worked top down in stockinette stitch with 2 strands DROPS BabyMerino or 1 strand DROPS Big Merino, and DROPS Cotton Merino. Short pants and tube socks are worked in rib with 1 strand DROPS BabyMerino.
DROPS design: Pattern no bm-019-bn
Yarn group A + A or C (doll), A (short pants and tube socks)
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DOLL:
MEASUREMENTS: approx. height 43-45 cm = 17”-17 3/4”

MATERIALS DOLL:
DROPS BABYMERINO from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
150 g color 23, light beige
Or use:
DROPS Big Merino from Garnstudio (belongs to yar group C)
200 g color 19, beige
Use left-over yarn for decorating the face: pink for mouth, blue for eyes and brown for eye lashes
And use:
DROPS COTTON MERINO from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
50 g color 17, vanilla for hair

KNITTING GAUGE:
20 stitches in width and 27 rows vertically in stockinette stitch and 2 strands Baby Merino or 1 strand Big Merino = 10 x 10 cm = 4” x 4”.

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3.5 mm = US 4
Needle size is only a suggestion! If you have too many stitches on 10 cm = 4” switch to larger needles. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm = 4” switch to smaller needles.

ACCESSORIES:
Ribbon, 2 lengths of approx. 15 cm = 6”.
Some cotton wool for filling

SHORT PANTS:
Fits doll: approx. 40-50 cm = 15 3/4”-19 3/4” Circumference around the waist: approx. 33 cm = 13”

MATERIALS SHORT PANTS:
DROPS BABYMERINO from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
50 g color 16, red
The shorts weigh approx. 20g


KNITTING GAUGE:
26 stitches in width and 34 rows vertically in stockinette stitch and 1 strand = 10 x 10 cm = 4” x 4”.

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 2.5 mm = US 1,5
Needle size is only a suggestion! If you have too many stitches on 10 cm = 4” switch to larger needles. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm = 4” switch to smaller needles.

TUBE SOCKS
MEASUREMENTS: Length 9 cm = 3 1/2”, width 7 cm = 2 3/4”

MATERIALS FOR TUBE SOCKS:
DROPS FABEL from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
50 g color 106, red
1 pair of socks weighs approx. 10 g

KNITTING GAUGE:
26 stitches in width and 34 rows in height with stockinette stitch and 1 strand = 10 x 10 cm = 4” x 4”.

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 2.5 MM = US 1,5.
Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a smaller needle size.

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Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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100% Wool
from 4.20 $ /50g
DROPS Baby Merino uni colour DROPS Baby Merino uni colour 4.20 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
Order
DROPS Baby Merino mix DROPS Baby Merino mix 4.20 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
Order

50% Wool, 50% Cotton
from 4.30 $ /50g
DROPS Cotton Merino uni colour DROPS Cotton Merino uni colour 4.30 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
Order
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 16.90$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
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EXPLANATION FOR THE PATTERN:

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KNITTING TIP:
For an even hair colour the first 10 to 12 rounds on top of head are worked with the hair color – or work until desired length.

DECREASE TIP:
Decrease 1 stitch as follows: Knit 2 together (= 1 stitch decreased).

INCREASE TIP:
Increase 1 stitch by picking up 1 stitch from the row below as follows: Insert left needle into stitch from wrong side and slip stitch on to left needle, knit the stitch twisted (= in back loop) (= 1 stitch increased).

INCREASE TIP-1:
Work until 1 stitch remains before stitch with marker, increase 1 stitch, knit 3 (middle stitch = stitch with marker), increase 1 stitch (= 2 stitches increased).

INCREASE TIP-2:
Work until 1 stitch remains before marker thread, 1 yarn over (= 1 stitch increased), knit 2 (marker thread is in the middle of these stitches), 1 yarn over. Increase like this at both marker threads (= 4 stitches increased in total). Knit yarn overs twisted on next round to avoid holes.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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DOLL - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
Work doll in the round in stockinette stitch, top down as follows: Gradually fill it with cotton wool as the parts are finished. Begin mid on top of head, increase out for head and decrease for neck, then increase for body and arms. Slip stitches for arms on stitch holders and continue body in the round. Then the divide the piece for legs. Finish leg separately. Slip stitches from stitch holders back on needles and knit the arms separately.

HEAD:
Cast on 8 stitches on 3 double pointed needles size 3.5 mm = US 4 with 2 strands vanilla Cotton Merino – read KNITTING TIP.
Knit 1 round. Then increase like this (work with 4 double pointed needles when there are enough stitches).
Round starts mid back.
ROUND 1: * Knit 1, 1 yarn over *, work from *-* over all stitches = 16 stitches.
ROUND 2: Knit all stitches, work yarn overs from previous round twisted to avoid holes.
ROUND 3: * Knit 2, 1 yarn over *, work from *-* over all stitches = 24 stitches.
ROUND 4: Knit all stitches, work yarn overs from previous round twisted to avoid holes.
ROUND 5: * Knit 3, 1 yarn over *, work from *-* over all stitches = 32 stitches.
ROUND 6: Knit all stitches, work yarn overs from previous round twisted to avoid holes.
ROUND 7: * Knit 4, 1 yarn over *, work from *-* over all stitches = 40 stitches. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE!
ROUND 8: Knit all stitches, work yarn overs from previous round twisted to avoid holes.
ROUND 9: * Knit 5, 1 yarn over *, work from *-* over all stitches = 48 stitches.
ROUND 10: Knit all stitches, work yarn overs from previous round twisted to avoid holes.
Knit over all stitches until piece measures 6 cm = 2 3/8”. AT THE SAME TIME: Change to color light beige, after the first 10 to 12 rounds.
Then work as follows:
ROUND 1: Now increase 10 stitches evenly as follows: Work 1 stitch, 1 yarn over, work * 5 stitches, 1 yarn over *, work from *-* 8 times in total, work 4 stitches, 1 yarn over, work the last 3 stitches = 58 stitches. Knit yarn overs twisted on next round to avoid holes.

Now increase for cheeks in each side as follows:
ROUND 2: Knit 22, increase 1 stitch – read INCREASE TIP, knit 1, increase 1 stitch, knit 12 (= face), increase 1 stitch, knit 1, increase 1 stitch and finish with knit 22 = 62 stitches.
ROUND 3: Knit all stitches.
ROUND 4: Knit 22, * increase 1 stitch, knit 1, increase 1 stitch, knit 1, increase 1 stitch, knit 1, increase 1 stitch *, knit 12, work from *-* 1 more time and finish with knit 22 = 70 stitches.
ROUND 5: Knit all stitches.
ROUND 6: Knit 22, * increase 1 stitch, knit 1, increase 1 stitch, knit 5, increase 1 stitch, knit 1, increase 1 stitch *, knit 12, work from *-* 1 more time and finish with knit 22 = 78 stitches.

Knit over all stitches until piece measures 12 cm = 4 3/4”. Now decrease for neck as follows:
ROUND 1: * Knit 2 together (= 1 stitch decreased), knit 4, knit 2 together (= 1 stitch decreased), knit 3 *, work from *-* until 1 stitch remains and finish with knit 1 = 64 stitches.
ROUND 2: Insert 16 markers in the piece as follows: * Knit 4, insert 1 marker *, repeat from *-* the entire round.
Then decrease 1 stitch after 1st, 3rd, 5th, 7th, 9th, 11th, 13th and 15th marker (= 8 stitches decreased) – read DECREASE TIP! On next round decrease 1 stitch after 2nd, 4th, 6th, 8th, 10th, 12th, 14th and 16th marker (= 8 stitches decreased). Continue decrease like this, i.e. decrease alternately on every other marker, 5 times in total = 24 stitches. Knit 2 rounds. The head is now done.

BODY:
= 24 stitches. Insert 4 markers as follows: Knit 3 (= half back piece), knit 1 and insert 1 marker in this stitch, knit 4, knit 1 and insert 1 marker in this stitch (= left arm), knit 6 (= front piece), knit 1 and insert 1 marker in this stitch, knit 4, knit 1 and insert 1 marker in this stitch (= right arm) and finish with knit 3 (= half back piece).
On next round increase for raglan on each side of stitches with markers as follows: Increase 1 stitch on each side of stitch with marker – read INCREASE TIP-1 (= 2 stitches increase at every marker = 8 stitches increased in total on round). Increase like this on every round 6 times in total, then on every other round 3 times in total = 96 stitches. Now divide piece for body and arms as follows: Knit 12 (= half back piece), slip the next 24 stitches on a stitch holder for arm and cast on 2 stitches under arm, knit 24 stitches (= front piece), slip the next 24 stitches on a stitch holder for arm and cast on 2 stitches under arm, knit the last 12 stitches (= half back piece) = 52 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread between the 2 new stitches under each arm (= 26 stitches on each side).
On next round increase 2 stitches under each arm – read INCREASE TIP-2. Increase like this 2 times in total = 60 stitches. Knit until piece measures 6 cm = 2 3/8” from where stitches were cast on under each arm, now increase 1 stitch on each side of each marker thread (= 4 stitches increased). Increase like this every cm = 3/8” 4 times in total = 76 stitches. When body measures 12 cm = 4 3/4”, divide the piece in 2 legs as follows: Bind off 2 stitches for crotch, knit the next 34 stitches, bind off the next 4 stitches for crotch, knit the next 34 stitches, bind off the last 2 stitches for crotch = 34 stitches for each leg. Cut and fasten the yarn.

RIGHT LEG:
= 34 stitches. Begin round inside the leg and work in the round. When leg measures 4 cm = 1 1/2” from the division from body, decrease inside the leg (i.e. at beginning and end of round) as follows: Knit 1, knit 2 together, work until 3 stitches remain, slip next stitch as if to knit, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch knitted, knit 1 (= 2 stitches decreased). Decrease like this every 2 cm = 3/4” 3 times in total = 28 stitches.
Knit until piece measures approx. 11 cm = 4 3/8” from division from body.
Now increase stitches for foot as follows:
Knit 19 and insert 1 marker on needle here, * 1 yarn over, knit 1 *, work from *-* 4 times in total, insert 1 marker here (there are 8 stitches between markers) and finish with knit 5 = 32 stitches. Knit 1 round, work yarn overs twisted.
Work next round as follows: Knit 19 (until marker), * 1 yarn over, knit 2 *, work from *-* 4 times in total (there are 12 stitches between markers) and finish with knit 5 = 36 stitches.
Continue to work without increase until leg measures 14 cm = 5 1/2”. Now decrease stitches at the front of foot as follows: Knit 19 (until marker), * knit 2 together, knit 1 *, work from *-* 4 times in total (there are 8 stitches between markers) and finish with knit 5 = 32 stitches. Knit 1 round. Knit 19 (until marker), * knit 2 together *, work from *-* 4 times in total (there are 4 stitches between markers) and knit 5 = 28 stitches. Knit 1 round and remove the markers.
Knit 18, * knit 2 together *, work from *-* 3 times in total and work the rest of round = 25 stitches. Knit 1 round.
Insert 1 marker in the 20th stitch on round = mid front on foot. Now decrease on each side of this stitch as follows: Work until 2 stitches before stitch with marker, knit 2 together, knit 1 (= stitch with marker), knit 2 together and work the rest of round = 23 stitches. Knit 1 round. Repeat decrease on each side of stitch with marker 1 more time = 21 stitches. Knit 1 round. On next round knit stitches together 2 by 2 until 1 stitch remains, knit this stitch = 11 stitches.
Knit 1 round. Knit stitches together 2 by 2 until 1 stitch remains, knit this stitch = 6 stitches. Cut the yarn and pull it through the remaining stitches and tighten together. Fasten yarn tightly.

LEFT LEG:
Work as right leg until piece measures approx. 11 cm = 4 3/8” (= 28 stitches), now increase stitch for foot as follows:
Knit 5 and insert 1 marker on needle here, * knit 1, 1 yarn over *, work from *-* 4 times in total. Insert 1 marker on needle here (there are 8 stitches between markers) and finish with knit 19 = 32 stitches. Knit 1 round, work yarn overs twisted.
Work next round as follows: Knit 5 (until marker) * knit 2, 1 yarn over *, work from *-* 4 times in total and knit the rest of round (there are 12 stitches between markers) = 36 stitches.
Continue to work without increase until leg measures 14 cm = 5 1/2”. Now decrease stitches at the front of foot as follows: Knit 5 (until marker) * knit 1, knit 2 together *, work from *-* 4 times in total and knit the rest of round (there are 8 stitches between markers) = 32 stitches. Knit 1 round.
Knit 5 (until marker) * knit 2 together *, work from *-* 4 times in total and knit the rest of round (there are 4 stitches between markers) = 28 stitches. Knit 1 round and remove the markers.

Knit 4, * knit 2 together *, work from *-* 3 times in total and work the rest of round = 25 stitches. Knit 1 round.
Insert 1 marker in the 6th stitch on round = mid front on foot. Now decrease on each side of this stitch as follows: Work until 2 stitches before stitch with marker, knit 2 together, knit 1 (= stitch with marker), knit 2 together and work the rest of round = 23 stitches. Knit 1 round. Repeat decrease on each side of stitch with marker 1 more time = 21 stitches. Knit 1 round. On next round knit stitches together 2 by 2 until 1 stitch remains, knit this stitch = 11 stitches.
Knit 1 round. Knit stitches together 2 by 2 until 1 stitch remains, knit this stitch = 6 stitches. Cut the yarn and pull it through the remaining stitches and tighten together. Fasten yarn tightly.

RIGHT ARM:
Slip the 24 stitches from stitch holder in one side of piece back on double pointed needles size 3.5 mm = US 4 and pick up 1 new stitch in each of the 2 stitches cast on under arm = 26 stitches. Beginning of round is mid under arm. Knit all stitches in the round. When arm measures 8 cm = 3 1/8”, increase on next round as follows: Knit 18, 1 yarn over, * knit 1, 1 yarn over *, work from *-* 3 times in total (= 4 stitches increased in total), and finish with knit 5 = 30 stitches. When arm measures 12 cm = 4 3/4”, insert 5 markers 6 stitches apart. On next round decrease 1 stitch after every marker (= 5 stitches decreased). Decrease like this every round 5 times in total = 5 stitches. Cut the yarn and pull it through the remaining stitches and tighten together. Fasten yarn tightly.

LEFT ARM:
Work as right arm but reversed. I.e. when piece measures 8 cm = 3 1/8”, work next round as follows: Knit 5, 1 yarn over, * knit 1, 1 yarn over *, work from *-* 3 times in total (= 4 stitches increased in total), and finish with knit 18.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew stitches bind off for crotch together on the front and back of body. Sew stitch from cast-on edge together to avoid a hole at the top of the head.

FACE:
Embroider eyes with blue and a couple of eye lashes with brown. Embroider a small nose with light beige and a mouth with light old pink.

HAIR:
Fasten hair in the round at the top of head, begin by fastening strands in a round where you think the hair should start at the top of face. Cut length of light vanilla of approx. 55 cm = 21 5/8”. Place them double, thread loop through 1 stitch. Then pull strands through loop and tighten. When the first round around head has been fastened, fasten more rounds with hair until top of head is covered. Then divide the hair into 2 parts, 1 on each side of head. Braid each part before tying a ribbon at the ends. Then cut the tips so that they are the same length.

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SHORT PANTS - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
Work pants in the round on double pointed needles and sew together to make the leg at the end. Work the entire piece in 1 strand.

SHORT PANTS:
Cast on 80 stitches on double pointed needles size 2.5 mm = US 1,5 with red. Work rib in the round with knit 2/purl 2. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE! Bind off with knit over knit and purl over purl when piece measures approx. 11 cm = 4 3/8”. Place piece flat so that there are 40 stitches on each side of piece - adjust so that there are 2 knit stitches in the middle. Then sew the middle 10 stitches at the front together with the 10 middle stitches on the back for crotch. Cut and fasten the yarn.

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TUBE SOCKS - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE
The socks are worked in the round with double pointed needles, top down. Rib is worked with displacements every 3rd round.

TUBE SOCKS:
Cast on 36 stitches with double pointed needles size 2.5 mm = US 1,5 and red. Work rib in the round with knit 2/ purl 2 for 1 cm = 3/8”. On the next round displace the rib 1 stitch to the left as follows: Over knit 2 and purl 2, work purl 1, knit 2, purl 1; continue like this to end of round. * Work 2 rounds with knit over knit and purl over purl. On the next round displace the rib again, by 1 stitch to the left *. Repeat from *-* until the piece measures 9 cm = 3 1/2”. On the next round work all stitches together 2 and 2 = 18 stitches. Cut the strand and pull it through the remaining 18 stitches 2 times, pull tight and fasten the strand well. Work 1 more sock in the same way.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 20.10.2020
Correction: DROPS Big Merino from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C) 200 g color 19, beige
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Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS Children 35-12) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (13)

country flag Giovanna 13.09.2021 - 11:32:

Ciao parte testa guance Giro 3 62 maglie Giro 4 non viene 70 maglie ma 78. Non ho capito Grazie

user icon DROPS Design 14.09.2021 kl. 22:02:

Buonasera Giovanna, sul giro 4 in quel punto si aumentano 8 maglie, passando da 62 a 70. Buon lavoro!

country flag Jean Linehan 17.07.2021 - 09:22:

Hello. I live in Germany and want to knit this doll but with black hair and light beige skin. Is there a way to order it as a kit with all of the necessary yarn and accessories? That would be much easier for me to get it as a kit. Thank you. Jean Linehan.

user icon DROPS Design 19.07.2021 kl. 09:28:

Dear Mrs Linehan, you will find the list of DROPS Stores in Germany here - you are welcome to ask them if they have a kit of this pattern. Happy knitting!

country flag Helga Vaith 01.02.2021 - 22:09:

Wo finde i h die ganze Strickanleitunge.

user icon DROPS Design 02.02.2021 kl. 10:21:

Liebe Frau Vaith, dieses Modell enthält die gestrickte Puppe mit kurzer Hose und Spiralsocken - um die Sprache zu ändern klicken Sie auf das Menu unten das Bild - die unterschiedlichen Kleidungen finden Sie beim klicken auf das gewünschte Bild (Hose/Jake, rosa Kleid usw). Viel Spaß beim stricken!

country flag Patricia Watkins 09.11.2020 - 17:55:

I found this pattern in my Knitting magazine and purchased the wool online as I wanted to make two dolls for my neighbour's twin girls for Christmas. I managed to knit the dolls but as I am fairly new to knitting with double pointed needles did not understand the instructions for making the hair! I tried looking online as I find it easier to watch someone explain and making it at the same time a lot easier. I could not find the technique explained and as most of the comments are foreign,

user icon DROPS Design 10.11.2020 kl. 08:56:

Dear Mrs Watkins, hair are attached to the head just as fringes - start on the round you'd like the hair to start and fasten fringes around the head to the very top. Then divide them into 2 bounches and plait them together. Happy knitting!

country flag Jolanda 13.10.2020 - 12:09:

Hallo Müssen die Garne Baby Merino und Cotton Merino tatsächlich doppelt (mit 2 Fäden) verstrickt werden? Danke für die Antwort Jolanda

user icon DROPS Design 13.10.2020 kl. 12:59:

Liebe Jolanda, BabyMerino wird entweder doppelt (= mit 2 Fäden) für die Puppe oder einseln (= 1 Faden) für die Hose/die Socken gestrickt - siehe die jeweilige Maschenprobe - Cotton Merino wird nur für die Haaren benutzt (damit gibt es keine Maschenprobe). Viel Spaß beim stricken!

country flag Kitty Neijssel 20.09.2020 - 16:13:

Deze leuke pop heb ik gebreid. Ik heb, zoals aangegeven 350 gram (7 bolletjes) Big Merino besteld en ik houd 4 bolletjes over! (mijn breiwerk klopt met het patroon) Ik heb toen de garenvervanger geraadpleegd en daaruit blijkt dat 350 gr. Big Merino 1-dr. te vervangen is door 300 gr. Baby Merino 2-dr. Daar zou je dan dus 2 poppen van kunnen breien...., 150 gr. Baby Merino 2 dr. is te vervangen door 176 gr. Big Merino 1 dr. Dus de benodigde hoeveelheid garen is niet juist. Of zie ik het verkeerd?

user icon DROPS Design 24.09.2020 kl. 12:45:

Dag Kitty,<>/p>

Bedankt voor je opmerking. 350 gram is denk ik inderdaad te veel. Ik zal het doorgeven aan de ontwerpafdeling ter controle.

country flag Gerti Lindl 31.08.2020 - 23:02:

Ich bin mir etwas unsicher was das Messen beim Körper angeht, es steht da; Bei einer Länge des Körpers von 12 cm die Arbeit für die beiden Beine ... vorher stand mal ab Teilung, jetzt nehm ich an ich mess wieder ab der Teilung oder? Oder vom Hals weg?

user icon DROPS Design 01.09.2020 kl. 13:34:

Liebe Frau Lindl, die 12 cm werden nach der Teilung (nach den neuen angeschlagenen Maschen unter den Arm) gemessen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

country flag Baetens Belinda 24.04.2020 - 14:33:

Ik weet niet goed hoe ik moet beginnen met het haar. De rest is top!

user icon DROPS Design 25.04.2020 kl. 20:21:

Dag Beatens Belinda,

Het haar bevestig je net als franje. Dus je neemt een losse gele draad en die vouw je dubbel. Je rijgt het aan de kant van de vouw door een steek bij het hoofd en dan haal je de 2 uiteinden door de lus.

country flag Mette Jensen 16.12.2019 - 10:14:

Kan det passe at der kun skal bruge 150 gr baby merino - men hvis jeg bruge big merino skal jeg bruge 350 gr ?

user icon DROPS Design 17.12.2019 kl. 11:40:

Hej Mette, vi skal se på garnforbruget i opskriften :)

country flag Carina Bergman 17.09.2019 - 19:43:

Förstår inte fördelningen? VARV 1: Nu ökas det 10 maskor jämnt fördelat så här: Sticka 1 maska, 1 omslag, sticka * 5 maskor, 1 omslag *, sticka från *-* totalt 8 ggr, sticka 4 maskor, 1 omslag, sticka de sista 3 maskorna = 58 maskor. Omslagen stickas vridna på nästa varv, det ska inte bli hål.

user icon DROPS Design 19.09.2019 kl. 09:15:

Hej. Du stickar såhär: 1 m, 1 omslag, 5 m, 1 omslag, 5 m, 1 omslag, 5 m, 1 omslag, 5 m, 1 omslag, 5 m, 1 omslag, 5 m, 1 omslag, 5 m, 1 omslag, 5 m, 1 omslag, 4 m, 1 omslag, 3 m = 58 m. Lycka till!

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