DROPS / 196 / 35

Warm Fall by DROPS Design

Knitted sweater with raglan in DROPS Eskimo. The piece is worked top down with lace pattern and high neck. Sizes S - XXXL.

DROPS Design: Pattern no ee-634
Yarn group E or C + C
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Sizes: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS ESKIMO from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group E)
550-600-650-750-800-900 g color 13, camel

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ACCESSORIES FOR THE PIECE:

KNITTING GAUGE:
9 stitches in width and 12 rows in height with stockinette stitch = 4'' x 4'' (10 x 10 cm).

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 10 MM / US 15: length 60 cm or 80 cm/24" or 32" for stockinette stitch.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 9 MM / US 13: length 80 cm/32" for rib.
The needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm / 4'', change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm / 4'', change to a smaller needle size.

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 5 ft 7 in and uses size S or M. If you are making a sweater, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

100% Wool
from 2.85 $ /50g
DROPS Eskimo uni colour DROPS Eskimo uni colour 2.85 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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DROPS Eskimo mix DROPS Eskimo mix 3.30 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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DROPS Eskimo print DROPS Eskimo print 3.60 $ /50g
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DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 31.35$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked in the round):
1 ridge = 2 rounds. Knit 1 round and purl 1 round.

DECREASE/INCREASE TIP (evenly spaced):
To work out how to decrease/increase evenly, count the total number of stitches to be decreased/increased over (e.g. 56 stitches), and divide by the number of decreases/increases to be made (e.g. 12) = 4.7. In this example, decrease by knitting together alternately each 3rd and 4th stitch and each 4th and 5th stitch (approx.). When increasing evenly, make 1 yarn over alternately after each 4th and 5th stitch. On the next round knit the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 and A.2. The diagrams show all the rows in the pattern seen from the right side.

RAGLAN:
Increase 1 stitch on each side of A.1/A.2 in each transition between body and sleeves (= 8 stitches increased on the round). Increase 1 stitch by making 1 yarn over. On the next round knit the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. Then work the new stitches in stockinette stitch.

INCREASE TIP (for sides of body):
Work until there are 2 stitches left before the marker thread, 1 yarn over, knit 4 (the marker thread sits in the middle of these 4 stitches), 1 yarn over. On the next round knit the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. Then work the new stitches in stockinette stitch. 

DECREASE TIP (for sleeves):
Decrease 1 stitch on each side of the marker thread as follows: Work until there are 3 stitches left before the marker thread, knit 2 together, knit 2 (the marker thread sits in the middle of these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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SWEATER - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The piece is worked in the round with double pointed needles/circular needle, top down. After the neck is finished, you can work an elevation in the back of the neck to give a better fit, so that the yoke is slightly higher at the back. This elevation can be left out; the neck will then be the same front and back – see description of elevation further down in the text. After the yoke, the body is worked in the round with circular needle. The sleeves are worked in the round with double pointed needles, top down.

NECK:
Cast on 56-56-60-60-64-64 stitches with double pointed needles size 10 mm / US 15 and Eskimo. Change to double pointed needles size 9 mm / US 13 and work rib (= knit 2 / purl 2) for 14 cm / 5½''.
Then work 2 RIDGES – read description above, AT THE SAME TIME on the third round (= a knitted round) decrease 12-10-14-12-14-12 stitches evenly on round – read DECREASE/INCREASE TIP = 44-46-46-48-50-52 stitches. Change back to double pointed needles size 10 mm / US 15. Now you can either work an elevation in the back of the neck or go straight to working the yoke if you do not want an elevation.

ELEVATION IN BACK OF NECK:
Skip this section if you do not want an elevation.
Insert 1 marker at the beginning of the round = mid back. Start from the right side and knit 6-6-7-7-7-8 stitches past the marker, turn, tighten the strand and purl 12-12-14-14-14-16 stitches from the wrong side, turn, tighten the strand and knit 18-18-21-21-21-24 stitches, turn, tighten the strand and purl 24-24-28-28-28-32 stitches, turn, tighten the strand and knit to mid back. Cut the strand. Start the next round (i.e. on the yoke) after the first 6-6-6-7-7-8 stitches on the round.

YOKE:
THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE!
Insert 1 marker at the beginning of the round and work the first round as follows: * Purl 1, knit 2 stitches in each of the next 3 stitches (knit in both front and back loops = 3 stitches increased), purl 1, knit 1 (= sleeve top), purl 1, knit 2 stitches in each of the next 3 stitches (= 3 stitches increased), purl 1, knit 11-12-12-13-14-15 (= front piece/back piece) *, work from *-* a total of 2 times = 56-58-58-60-62-64 stitches on the needle.
The next round is worked as follows: * Work A.1 (= 8 stitches), make 1 yarn over, knit 1 (= sleeve top), make 1 yarn over, work A.2 (= 8 stitches), make 1 yarn over, knit 11-12-12-13-14-15 stitches (= front piece/back piece)), make 1 yarn over *, work from *-* a total of 2 times = 64-66-66-68-70-72 stitches.
The first increase to RAGLAN – read description above, is now finished (= 8 stitches increased on the round). Continue this pattern and increase to raglan every 2nd round a total of 7-8-11-9-12-13 times (including the increase on the last round worked) and then every 4th round a total of 2-2-1-3-2-2 times. REMEMBER THE GAUGE!
After the last increase to raglan there are 128-138-154-156-174-184 stitches on the needle. Continue the pattern as before but without increasing until the piece measures 21-23-25-27-29-31 cm / 8¼''-9''-9¾''-10 5/8''-11 3/8''-12¼'' from the marker at the beginning of the yoke.
The next round is worked as follows: Work 3-3-3-4-4-5 stitches in stockinette stitch (= on the back piece), place the next 29-31-35-33-37-37 stitches on 1 thread for sleeve, cast on 4-4-4-6-6-6 new stitches on the needle (= in side under sleeve), work stockinette stitch over the next 35-38-42-45-50-55 stitches (= front piece), place the next 29-31-35-33-37-37 stitches on 1 thread for sleeve, cast on 4-4-4-6-6-6 new stitches on the needle (= in side under sleeve), work stockinette stitch over the last 32-35-39-41-46-50 stitches (= back piece). The body and sleeves are now finished separately. THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE!

BODY:
= 78-84-92-102-112-122 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread in the middle of the 4-4-4-6-6-6 stitches cast on under each sleeve. Start the round by one of the marker threads and allow the marker threads to follow your work onwards.
Continue with stockinette stitch. When the piece measures 4 cm / 1½'' from the division increase 1 stitch on each side of both marker threads – read INCREASE TIP- (= 4 stitches increased). Increase like this every 10 cm / 4'' a total of 3 times = 90-96-104-114-124-134 stitches.
When the piece measures 33 cm from the division (approx. 58-60-62-64-66-68 cm / 22¾''-23 5/8''-24 3/8''-25¼''-26''-26¾'' from the shoulder) knit 1 round where you increase 14-16-16-22-20-26 stitches evenly on round – remember DECREASE/INCREASE TIP = 104-112-120-136-144-160 stitches.
Change to circular needle size 9 mm / US 13 and work rib (= knit 2 / purl 2). When the rib measures 5 cm / 2'', increase every other purl-2 to purl-3 = 117-126-135-153-162-180 stitches. Continue with knit over knit and purl over purl until the rib measures 8 cm / 3 1/8''. Loosely bind off with knit over knit and purl over purl. The sweater measures approx. 66-68-70-72-74-76 cm / 26''-26¾''-27½''-28 3/8''-29 1/8''-30'' / 26''-26¾''-27½''-28 3/8''-29 1/8''-30'' from the shoulder down.

SLEEVE:
Place the 29-31-35-33-37-37 stitches from the thread on the one side of the piece on double pointed needles size 10 mm / US 15. In addition, knit up 1 stitch in each of the 4-4-4-6-6-6 stitches cast on under the sleeve = 33-35-39-39-43-43 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread in the middle of the 4-4-4-6-6-6 stitches under the sleeve and start the round here. Work stockinette stitch in the round. When the piece measures 2 cm / 3/4'' from the division, decrease 2 stitches mid under sleeve – read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every 5-5-3½-4-3-3 cm/2"-2"-1 1/4"-1½"-1"-1" a total of 7-7-9-8-10-9 times = 19-21-21-23-23-25 stitches. Continue working until the piece measures 36-35-33-32-30-29 cm / 14 1/8"-13 ¾"-13"-12 ½"-11 ¾"-11 3/8" from the division (shorter measurements in the larger sizes due to longer yoke).
Knit 1 round where you increase 5-3-3-5-5-7 stitches evenly on round = 24-24-24-28-28-32 stitches. Change to double pointed needles size 9 mm / US 13 and work rib (= knit 2 / purl 2) for 8 cm / 3 1/8''. The sleeve measures approx. 44-43-41-40-38-37 cm / 17¼''-17''-16 1/8''-15¾''-15''-14½'' from the division. Loosely bind off with knit over knit and purl over purl – to avoid the bind-off edge being tight, you can make 1 yarn over after each 4th stitch while binding off (the yarn overs are bind off as normal stitches). Work the other sleeve in the same way.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

= knit from right side, purl from wrong side
= purl from right side, knit from wrong side
= knit 2 together
= slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch
= between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over


Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 196-35) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (14)

Anna 30.01.2020 - 22:38:

Hello, I don't understand the diagram explanation "purl from right side, knit from wrong side" or "knit from right side, purl from wrong side". Could you explain it better or is there a video that shows the technique? Thank you, Anna

DROPS Design 31.01.2020 kl. 07:23:

Dear Anna, a stitch worked purl from RS/knit from WS is a reversed stocking stitch. The diagrams are here worked in the round, this mean you will simply purl the stitches with a cross (=x) on every round - and knit the white squares. Happy knitting!

Chris 09.01.2020 - 17:17:

Hallo, ich habe eine Frage zu der Erhöhung; dazu steht am Ende: "Die nächste Runde (d.h. an der Passe) nach den ersten 6-6-6-7-7-8 Maschen der Runde beginnen." Das verstehe ich nicht; ich bin doch wieder in der Rundenmitte, und die Maschenanzahl verändert sich nicht (im Vgl. zum Stricken ohne Erhöhung). Wie verstehe ich das? Vielen Dank im Voraus :)

DROPS Design 10.01.2020 kl. 08:30:

Liebe Chris, nach dem Kragen bzw nach der Erhöhung beginnen die Runden nicht mehr bei der hinteren Mitte aber mit der Raglan-linie = mit A.1, deshalb wir die 1. Runde nach der Erhöhung nach den ersten 6-7-8 Maschen beginnen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Ana 19.06.2019 - 05:56:

El inicio del canesú no entiendo lo siguiente: 1 revés, 2 derechos en cada uno de los siguientes 3 puntos (trabajar en ambos bucles, posterior y anterior = 3 puntos aumentados),. Cuando aumentas los tres puntos? Tejes uno del revés y aumentas 1 y luego 2 del derecho y aumentas un punto por punto que tejes?.

DROPS Design 20.06.2019 kl. 23:02:

Hola Ana. Trabajar 2 derechos en cada uno de los siguientes 3 puntos, es decir, después de trabajar estos 3 puntos tenemos 6 puntos ( 3 puntos aumentados)

Maria Enrica 27.02.2019 - 21:38:

Buonasera. Mi piacciono i vostri modelli ma, avendo una certa età, sono abituata ad usare i vecchi ferri e ne ho di tutte le misure. Penso che mi troverei a disagio ad usare quelli circolari. Potreste mettere le spiegazioni per i ferri non circolari? Anche il fatto di iniziare dall'alto mi mette in difficoltà. Forse mi basterebbe che metteste i modelli dei vari pezzi. Grazie

DROPS Design 27.02.2019 kl. 23:23:

Buonasera Maria Enrica, molti dei nostri modelli sono lavorati in piano e quindi è possibile lavorarli con i ferri dritti. I ferri circolari vengono utilizzati per avere più spazio a causa del numero di maglie elevato, e sono molto popolari nella cultura maglistica all'infuori dell'Italia. Può provare ad usare i nostri video tutorials per avvicinarsi alla lavorazione in tondo. Buon lavoro!

Daniela 04.12.2018 - 10:51:

Buongiorno, vorrei sapere se possibile, perchè nel collo ci sono le diminuzioni. Grazie!

DROPS Design 04.12.2018 kl. 11:26:

Buongiorno Daniela. Le coste tendono a stringere il lavoro. Le diminuzioni vengono proposte per evitare che il lavoro si allarghi troppo una volta terminata la lavorazione a coste. Buon lavoro!

Diana 16.11.2018 - 14:56:

Hi DD, I have a question about separating the parts. It's quite hard to write it down in English, sorry. Altough I have checked the English version it's still not clear for me when and how to separate the back and front in order to place the sleeves in it. Can you please elaborate on it? Where will be these two parts separated - when should I finish the knitting in round? Diana

DROPS Design 16.11.2018 kl. 15:19:

Dear Diana, this video shows how to work a raglan jumper top down - but remember to follow the description of the pattern, ie working the stitches as explained in the pattern. Happy knitting!

Marion 28.10.2018 - 23:50:

Bonjour, j'ai un doute concernant la fin de la rehausse d'encolure. Une fois les rangs raccourcis terminés, il est écrit de "couper le fil et commencer le tour suivant après les x premières mailles du tour" Cela signifie que je dois sauter ces mailles et ne pas les tricoter ? Si oui, pourquoi ? Merci de votre aide

DROPS Design 29.10.2018 kl. 08:54:

Bonjour Marion, les tours commencent au début au milieu dos, une fois que la réhausse est faite, on va couper le fil pour commencer l'empiècement après les 6-7-8 mailles (cf taille) après le début des tours précédent. Après avoir coupé le fil, glissez ces mailles sur l'aiguille droite sans les tricoter, décalez votre marqueur de début de tours et commencez comme indiqué (avant le point fantaisie du raglan). Bon tricot!

Zarrouk Hend 21.09.2018 - 12:33:

Bonjour, je vie en Tunisie et je ne trouve pas les aiguilles circulaires pour réaliser les différents modèles que vous publiez, en l’occurence Celui ci que j’adore. Pourriez vous m’aider à trouver un moyen pour pouvoir se les procurer Merci pour votre reponse

DROPS Design 21.09.2018 kl. 13:36:

Bonjour Mme Hend, vous trouverez la liste des magasins DROPS qui expédient dans le monde entier. N'hésitez pas à les contacter pour en savoir plus. Bon tricot!

Monica Quintana Diaz 20.08.2018 - 14:44:

Hola, por favor me pueden comunicar si los patrones se traducirán al español en un futuro próximo.

DROPS Design 20.08.2018 kl. 21:01:

Hola Mónica, los patrones de la nueva colección estarán traducidos para finales de mes.

Lisa 03.08.2018 - 00:51:

Hej hvad gør jeg hvis jeres strikkefasthed er 12 pinde og 9 masker og min er 14 pinde og 11 masker på samme pind størrelse ?

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