DROPS / 187 / 9

Blackberry Crush by DROPS Design

Knitted sweater with raglan, stripes and seed stitch (double vertically), worked top down. Size: S - XXXL Piece is knitted in 3 strands DROPS Kid-Silk.

DROPS design: Pattern ks-132
Yarn group A + A + A
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS KID-SILK from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
150-150-175-200-200-225 g color 13, pink
150-150-175-200-200-225 g color 08, gray blue

Piece can also be knitted with yarn from:
“Alternative yarn (yarn group A)” - see link below.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 and 80 cm / 16'' and 32'') SIZE 6 mm/US 10 – or size needed to get 14 stitches and 16 rows in stockinette stitch or 14 stitches and 22 rows seed stitch (double vertically) with 3 strands Kid-Silk = width 10 cm / 4'' and 10 cm / 4'' vertically.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 and 80 cm / 16'' and 32'') SIZE 5.5 mm/US 9 for rib – or size needed to get 15 stitches and 17 rows in stockinette stitch with 3 strands Kid-Silk = width 10 cm / 4'' and 10 cm / 4'' vertically.

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 5 ft 7 in and uses size S or M. If you are making a sweater, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 5.80 $ /25g
DROPS Kid-Silk uni colour DROPS Kid-Silk uni colour 5.80 $ /25g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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DROPS Kid-Silk long print DROPS Kid-Silk long print 5.80 $ /25g
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DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 69.60$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
INFORMATION FOR PATTERN:

PATTERN:
See diagram A.1.
Diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from the right side.

SEED STITCH (double vertically):
ROUND 1: * Knit 1, purl 1 *, repeat from *-*.
ROUND 2: Knit over knit and purl over purl.
ROUND 3: Purl over knit and knit over purl.
ROUND 4: Repeat 2nd round.
Repeat rounds 1 to 4.

STRIPES (yoke and body):
STRIPE 1: 3 strands pink for 23-23-24-25-25-26 cm / 9"-9"-9½"-9 3/4"-9 3/4"-10 1/4''.
STRIPE 2: 2 strands pink + 1 strand gray blue (= 3 strands) for 8-9-9-9-10-10 cm / 4''.
STRIPE 3: 1 strand pink + 2 strands gray blue (= 3 strands) for 8-9-9-9-10-10 cm / 4''.
STRIPE 4: 3 strands gray blue for 24-24-25-26-26-27 cm / 9½"-9½"-9 3/4"-10 1/4"-10 1/4"-10½''.

STRIPES (sleeve):
STRIPE 1: Continue with 2 strands pink + 1 strand gray blue (= 3 strands) until 8-9-9-9-10-10 cm / 3"-3½"-3½"-3½"-4"-4'' in total have been worked (i.e. approx. 0-2-3-4-5-6 cm / 0"-3/4"-1"-1½"-2"-2 1/4'' on yoke and approx. 8-7-6-5-5-4 cm / 3"-2 3/4"-2 1/4"-2"-2"-1½'' on sleeve).
STRIPE 2: 1 strand pink + 2 strands gray blue (= 3 strands) for 8-9-9-9-10-10 cm / 3"-3½"-3½"-3½"-4"-4''.
STRIPE 3: 3 strands gray blue until finished measurements (approx. 21-19-19-18-17-16 cm / 8 1/4"-7½"-7½"-7"-6 3/4"-6 1/4'').

RAGLAN:
Increase 1 stitch on each side of every A.1 (= 8 stitches increased on round):
Increase 1 stitch by making 1 yarn over. On next round work yarn over twisted to avoid holes. Then work the new stitches in seed stitch (double vertically).

DECREASE TIP-1 (evenly):
To calculate how to decrease evenly, use the total number of stitches on round (e.g. 76 stitches) and divide stitches by number of decreases to be done (e.g. 4) = 19. In this example knit approx. every 18th and 19th stitch together.

DECREASE TIP-2 (applies to sleeves):
Work until 4 stitches remain before marker and knit 2 together, work 4 stitches in seed stitch (= marker thread is between these stitches), slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked.
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SWEATER:
Worked in the round on circular needle, top down. Work sleeves in the round on a short circular needle/double pointed needles. Piece is knitted in 3 strands Kid-Silk.

NECK EDGE:
Cast on 76-80-84-84-88-96 stitches with 3 strands pink on a short circular needle SIZE 5.5 mm/US 9. Knit 1 round. Then work rib (= knit 2/purl 2) for 4 cm / 1½''. Knit 1 round while decreasing 4 stitches evenly - read DECREASE TIP-1 (evenly) = 72-76-80-80-84-92 stitches. Insert a marker thread mid back. NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE! Switch to circular needle size 6 mm / US 10.

YOKE:
Now work STRIPES (yoke and body) – see explanation above, and pattern as follows: 7-8-9-9-10-12 stitches in SEED STITCH (double vertically) – see explanation above, (= half back piece), make 1 yarn over, A.1 (= 6 stitches), make 1 yarn over, 8 stitches in seed stitch (double vertically) (= sleeve), make 1 yarn over, A.1, make 1 yarn over, 17-19-21-21-23-27 stitches in seed stitch (double vertically) (= front piece), make 1 yarn over, A.1, make 1 yarn over, 8 stitches in seed stitch (double vertically) (= sleeve), make 1 yarn over, A.1, make 1 yarn over, 8-9-10-10-11-13 stitches in seed stitch (double vertically) (= half back piece). REMEMBER THE GAUGE! First increase for RAGLAN - see explanation above, is now done. Continue like this and increase every other round 22-23-25-27-29-31 times in total = 248-260-280-296-316-340 stitches. Continue until piece measures 23-25-27-29-30-32 cm / 9"-9 3/4"-10½"-11½"-11 3/4"-12½'' from marker thread mid back.
Work next round as follows:
Work as before over the first 32-34-37-39-42-46 stitches (= half back piece), cast on 6-6-8-8-10-10 new stitches on needle (= in the side under sleeves), and slip the next 58-60-64-68-72-76 stitches on a stitch holder (= sleeve), work the next 67-71-77-81-87-95 stitches (= front piece), cast on 6-6-8-8-10-10 new stitches on needle (= in the side under sleeves), slip the next 58-60-64-68-72-76 stitches on a stitch holder (= sleeve), work the remaining 33-35-38-40-43-47 stitches (= half back piece). NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE!

BODY:
= 144-152-168-176-192-208 stitches. Continue with seed stitch and stripes as before until piece measures 40-40-40-40-41-41 cm / 15 3/4"-15 3/4"-15 3/4"-15 3/4"-16"-16". Bind off stitches with knit over knit and purl over purl. Make a yarn over after approx. every 4th stitch while binding off (bind off yarn over as stitch) to make the bind-off edge more elastic. Piece measures approx. 68-70-72-74-76-78 cm / 26¾''-27½''-28 3/8''-29 1/8''-30''-30¾'' from shoulder and down.

SLEEVES:
Slip the 58-60-64-68-72-76 stitches from stitch holder in one side of piece on a short circular needle/double pointed needles size 6 mm / US 10 and pick in addition up 1 stitch in each of the 6-6-8-8-10-10 stitches mid under sleeve = 64-66-72-76-82-86 stitches. Insert a marker thread in the middle of the new stitches in the side under the sleeve. Continue with double seed stitch and STRIPES (sleeve) - see explanation above. When piece measures 3 cm / 1'', decrease 2 stitches mid under sleeve - read DECREASE TIP-2. Decrease like this every 3rd-3rd-3rd-2nd-2nd-2nd round 18-18-21-22-25-26 times in total = 28-30-30-32-32-34 stitches. Continue to work until piece measures 33-31-30-28-28-26 cm / 13"-12 1/4"-11 3/4"-11"-11"-10 1/4''. Knit 1 round while increasing 4-6-6-8-8-10 stitches evenly = 32-36-36-40-40-44 stitches. Switch to double pointed needles SIZE 5.5 mm/US 9 / US 9 and work rib = knit 2/purl 2 for 4 cm / 1½''. Switch back to double pointed needles size 6 mm / US 10 and bind off with knit over knit and purl over purl. Make sure that the bind-off edge is not too tight. Sleeve measures approx. 37-35-34-32-32-30 cm / 14½"-13 3/4"-13½"-12½"-12½"-11 3/4''. Work the other sleeve the same way.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 18.09.2018
Correction - DECREASE TIP-2 (applies to sleeves):
Work until 4 stitches remain before marker

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

= knit
= purl

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 187-9) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (16)

Elvira 27.02.2019 - 20:08:

In der Maßskizze ist der Halsausschnitt vorne tiefer als beim Rückenteil. In der Beschreibung wird aber kein Unterschied zwischen Vorderseite und Rückenteil gemacht. Wie wird der Halsausschnitt vorne tiefer gestrickt? Liebe Grüße Elvira

DROPS Design 28.02.2019 kl. 09:28:

Liebe Elvira, die Maßskizze ist standard, dh in diesem Modell wird der Halsausschnitt gleich vorne und hinten. Wenn Sie ihn hinten höher möchten, können Sie dann eine Erhöhung stricken. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Theresa 01.02.2019 - 18:10:

Rigtig flot design. Jeg vil gerne bruge noget andet garn, men synes ikke omregneren hjælper mig. Kan man bruge brushed alpaca silk I stedet og I så fald hvor meget? Tænker der også skal 3 tråde af det men hvilke pinde skal man så bruge? :)

DROPS Design 06.02.2019 kl. 10:55:

Hej Thresa, 3 tråde Kid-Silk modsvarer 1 tråd DROPS Melody. Hvis du omregner den får du et resultat med 2 tråde Brushed Alpaca Silk. Da skal du bruge 2 tråde DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk for at få 14 masker på 10 cm. God fornøjelse!

Ana 08.12.2018 - 13:51:

Hi, Very nice pattern and yarn! :) I have a little problem: I have reached to the point where I have changed first color, under arms - working the body in round. After adding the 6 new stitches under sleeves the moss stitch is not matching unfortunately :(... what should I do in this case? Until now I followed the pattern and I have the total number of stitches - 144. I wouldn’t want to turn back and undo the work. Thank you very much!

DROPS Design 10.12.2018 kl. 09:07:

Dear Ana, in first size you work yoke with 3 strands pink until piece measures 23 cm then continue with 2 strands pink and 1 strand grey blue for 8 cm (= when all inc are done for yoke, piece measures 23 cm = change colour to divide piece) and continue stripes yoke/body (= 8 cm with these 2 colours then change to 1 strand pink + 2 strands grey blue for 8 cm and work then with 3 strands grey blue). When working back sleeve, work with 2 strands pink + 1 strand grey blue for 8 cm then continue with 1 strand pink + 2 strands grey blue for 8 cm and finish with 3 strands grey blue. Happy knitting!

Zenatti 24.10.2018 - 14:29:

Je sais pas tricotera avec des aiguilles circulaire pourriez-vous m’envoyer le modèle en taille M avec des aiguilles droites c’est mon arthrose des mains qui m handicap pour tricoter avec des circulaires merci j’attends votre réponse pour commander ma laine

DROPS Design 24.10.2018 kl. 15:44:

Bonjour Mme Zenatti, vous trouverez ici toutes les explications pour adapter un modèle sur aiguilles droites. Pour toute assistance complémentaire, merci de vous adresser à votre magasin, même par mail ou téléphone. Bon tricot!

Laura 28.08.2018 - 22:08:

Hello, at the moment knitting sleeves of this sweater, shouldn’t it be on DECRASE TIP 2, 4 stitches remaining before marker thread instead of 2, because when i leave 2 sts before, marker thread does not comes in the middle of 4 moss sts, or i’m understand something wrong? Thank you

DROPS Design 03.09.2018 kl. 16:10:

Dear Laura, We are sent your question to our design team so they can check it out. Should there be any correction, please check back the pattern for any correction. Happy Knitting!

Laura 28.08.2018 - 22:07:

Hello, at the moment knitting sleeves of this sweater, shouldn’t it be on DECRASE TIP 2, 4 stitches remaining before marker thread instead of 2, because when i leave 2 sts before, marker thread does not comes in the middle of 4 moss sts, or i’m understand something wrong? Thank you

DROPS Design 30.08.2018 kl. 13:46:

Dear Laura, We are sending your question do our design team so they can check it out. Should there be any correction, please check back the pattern for any correction. Happy Knitting!

Helen 07.05.2018 - 13:57:

Love this pattern & have downloaded it ........... however ....... I have a wish - it would be so much easier if your patterns had actual measurements instead of "S - XXXL" :) That simple change would avoid one having to look at the diagram, double the cm to see the all-around dimension, convert to inches (if you are me) and repeat if you wish to compare sizes ......... Failing that, perhaps a size chart included in the Terms & Sizes section?

DROPS Design 12.05.2018 kl. 08:20:

Dear Helen, since different styles require different ways of fitting, different ease for example, also people prefer different ease, we do not have a general sizing chart. Giving the "S-XXXL" type of sizing will give you the idea which size would be suitable, but you also cannot avoid to chek the measurements for each individual patterns. Happy Crafting!

Zenatti 19.03.2018 - 09:49:

Pouvez vous m,envoyer un modèle de pull en LIMA manches raglan mais qui ne se tricote pas en rond et l,encolure en V

DROPS Design 19.03.2018 kl. 11:20:

Bonjour Mme Zenatti, vous trouverez ici tous nos modèles de pulls femme dans les laines du groupe B (= comme Lima). Vous pourrez ajuster la quantité à l'aide de notre convertisseur. Bon tricot!

Zenatti 17.03.2018 - 13:37:

J’aimerais faire un pull raglan en LIMA pour femme mais pas en rond car je ne peux pas tricoter en rond

DROPS Design 19.03.2018 kl. 09:28:

Bonjour Mme Zenatti, vous trouverez ici quelques indications pour vous aider à ajuster les explications, n'hésitez pas à contacter votre magasin pour toute assistance complémentaire. Attention toutefois, ce pull se tricote avec 3 fils Kid-Silk, Lima ne vous donnera pas le même échantillon ni les mêmes mesures - voir ici les alternatives possibles. Bon tricot!

Ella 26.01.2018 - 09:49:

Loara

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