DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk uni colour 77% Alpaca, 23% Silk |
3.95 $ /25g |
Order |
Clicking the ORDER button will redirect you to Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd website
The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!
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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk uni colour 77% Alpaca, 23% Silk 3.95 $ /25g Order |
Clicking the ORDER button will redirect you to Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd website
The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!
All measurements in charts are in cm.
= knit from right side | |
= knit from wrong side | |
= between 2 stitches make 2 yarn overs. On the next row drop the first yarn over and work the other (= 1 stitch) | |
= knit 2 together | |
= slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch | |
= slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 2 together, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted together stitches | |
= mid back | |
= towards neck | |
= bottom edge |
Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.
These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:
Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?
Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.
The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.
The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?
The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.
Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?
The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.
Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.
See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?
What are the yarn groups?
All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.
How do I use the yarn converter?
At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).
If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.
Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?
Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.
It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.
The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.
What size should I knit?
If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.
You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart
Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?
The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.
Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
Why is the pattern worked top-down?
Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.
The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.
How do I work according to a knitting diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.
When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.
When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
How do I work according to a crochet diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.
When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.
When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.
When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.
The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?
Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.
The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?
The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.
Where on the garment is the length measured?
The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.
See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing
What is a repeat?
Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.
Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?
Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.
Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?
The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.
Why increase in the cast-off edge?
It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.
See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)
How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?
To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.
See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately
How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?
Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.
See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open
Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?
Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.
See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?
Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?
Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.
Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!
How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?
If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.
Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.
How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?
All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.
Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding
Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:
1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.
2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.
3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.
4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.
Why does my garment pill?
Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.
You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.
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Knitted vest with lace pattern. Sizes S - XXXL. The piece is worked in DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk.
DROPS 187-27 |
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INFORMATION FOR THE PATTERN: RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth): 1 ridge = Knit 2 rows. PATTERN: See diagram A.1. The diagram shows all the rows in the pattern seen from the right side. BINDING OFF TIP: To avoid the bind-off edge being tight, you can bind off with ½ size larger needle. ---------------------------------------------------------- VEST: The piece is worked back and forth with circular needle. Start at the bottom of the back piece and knit to the neck. Then the piece is folded double and sewn in each side for the armholes. Loosely cast on 143-151-151-159 stitches with circular needle SIZE 5.5 mm/US 9 / US 9 and Brushed Alpaca Silk – it is important that the cast-on edge is not tight. Purl 1 row from the wrong side. The next row is worked as follows – from the right side: 1 stitch GARTER STITCH – see description above, * knit 1, purl 1 *, work from *-* until there are 2 stitches left, knit 1, 1 stitch garter stitch. Continue like this until the rib measures 2 cm / ¾". The next row is worked as follows – from the right side: 3 stitches garter stitch, A.1a (= 8 stitches), A.1b (= 8 stitches) a total of 15-16-16-17 times in width, A.1c (= 9 stitches) and 3 stitches garter stitch. Continue with this pattern. REMEMBER THE GAUGE! When the piece measures 29-31-33-34 cm / 11½"-12¼"-13"-13½" insert 1 marker in each side, the markers mark where the armholes start. When the piece measures approx. 101-107-112-115 cm / 39¾"-42"-44"-45¼" (adjust so that you finish after either the 6th or the 12th row in the diagram) work the next row as follows – from the right side: 1 stitch garter stitch, * knit 1, purl 1 *, work from *-* until there are 2 stitches left, knit 1, 1 stitch garter stitch. Continue like this until the rib measures 2 cm / ¾". Loosely bind off with knit over knit and purl over purl – it is important that the bind-off edge is not tight – read BINDING OFF TIP. ASSEMBLY: See the sketch for how to assemble the garment. Fold the bind-off edge down towards the bottom edge with wrong side to wrong side. The corners should stop exactly by each marker. Sew each corner approx. 3 cm / 1" in the side so they stay in place. |
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Diagram explanations |
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Have you made this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them! Do you need help with this pattern?You'll find © 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S. We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights. Read more about what you can do with our patterns at the bottom of each pattern on our site. |
With over 40 years in knitting and crochet design, DROPS Design offers one of the most extensive collections of free patterns on the internet - translated to 17 languages. As of today we count 309 catalogs and 11612 patterns - 11603 of which are translated into English (US/in).
We work hard to bring you the best knitting and crochet have to offer, inspiration and advice as well as great quality yarns at incredible prices! Would you like to use our patterns for other than personal use? You can read what you are allowed to do in the Copyright text at the bottom of all our patterns. Happy crafting!
Comments / Questions (18)
Natalie wrote:
Wenn der Rechteck gefaltet wird wo ist dann der Halsausschnitt?Die Strickanleitung und Skizze schon garnicht, ist zu verstehen.Hätte gerne mir das Teil gestrickt. Werde sehr dankbar für Hilfe.
20.04.2024 - 23:09DROPS Design answered:
Liebe Nathalie, wenn die Arbeit gefaltet ist sind die Löcher beidseitig, oben, für die Arme, die ganze Länge der Arbeit wird für das Rückenteil sein und die obere Seite wird am Hals sein (die abgekettenen Maschen) - der Kreuz liegt unten beim Rücken (Anschlagskante). Viel Spaß beim fertigstellen!
22.04.2024 - 09:16Astrid wrote:
Ich kann mir gar nicht vorstellen, wie dieses Modell "funktioniert". Müsste nach oben nicht das Strickstück breiter werden, damit im Nacken nicht eine große Spannung entsteht beim Tragen. Und wäre es nicht angemessen, beim Abketten mit Umschlag abzuketten, damit die obere Kante wirklich locker genug ist? Ich stelle meine Fragen lieber, bevor ich mit der Arbeit beginne. Vielen Dank
21.01.2024 - 11:43DROPS Design answered:
Liebe Astrid, es wird nur wie einem langen Rechteck gestrickt, das obere Teil wird dann nach unten gefaltet - siehe Maßskizze - um die Armlöcher beidseitig zu enstehen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!
22.01.2024 - 10:05Joke Rikken wrote:
Waar staat in het patroon hoe je de hals moet breien, ik begrijp van het patroon dat het 1 rechte lap is. Voor mij is de tekening niet duidelijk hoe ik het moet vouwen....
14.06.2023 - 17:53DROPS Design answered:
Dag Joke,
Het is inderdaad een rechte lap en op het eind vouw je de korte kant een stukje naar beneden en naai je een kleinstukje vast om armsgaten te creëren. Je hoeft dus geen aparte hals te breien. De hals ontstaat doordat op die plek a.h.w. meer stof van de lap zit.
14.06.2023 - 18:12Elaine wrote:
Can you confirm that the sample pictured in the photos is longer than the length specified in the directions? How many diamonds (repeats of rows 1-12) are necessary to achieve the length in the photo (before folding for the armholes)? Thank you very much!
24.08.2022 - 21:14DROPS Design answered:
Dear Elaine, the written pattern and chart are both matching the vest on the picture - The armholes are marked with a marker after piece measures 29-31-33-34 cm / 11½"-12 1/4"-13"-13½'' - the number of diamonds will depend on your tension in height - see under ASSEMBLY how to sew piece together. Happy knitting!
25.08.2022 - 09:14Sandra Van Der Veen wrote:
Kan je dit patroon ook op gewone breinaalden breien
14.02.2022 - 11:02DROPS Design answered:
Dag Sandra,
Het werk wordt heen en weer gebreid, dus op zich zou het met rechte naalden kunnen, alleen heb je heel veel steken op de naalden, dus dat is de reden dat je met de rondbreinaald moet breien, anders past het niet.
17.02.2022 - 11:16Maria De Fátima Sousa Ferreira Amorim wrote:
Boa tarde estou tentada a fazer este colete para a minha nora, so que ela é baixinha, 1,57cm altura posso adaptar a peça ? se sim como? é que o tamanho S M dá para 1,70 de altura como a fotografia. e já esta a fazer-me confusão a dobragem da peça para formar o colete . se me ajudarem vou fazer a encomenda do fio e agulhas. já não é a primeira vez que trabalho convosco. obrigada
09.10.2020 - 14:36DROPS Design answered:
Boa tarde, Muito embora não possamos ajudá-la em relação a alterações aos nossos modelos, talvez a melhor forma será encurtar o comprimento total, e dividi-lo por 2 para que fique adaptado à sua nora. Pode sempre tirar a medida de uma peça que já tenha para obter a altura desejada. Bons tricôs!
09.10.2020 - 15:47Isabelle wrote:
Je ne sais pas comment faire au 1er rang lorsque j"arrive au 2 jete l'une a cote de l"autre. sur la meme maille. Dois-je tricoter ainsi: 2 end, 2ens, 2 jete(1 fois), surjet simple, 1 end? Dois-je faire 2 jete 1 seule fois ou 2 fois l'une apres l"autre? J'ai fait 2 jete 1 seule fois (1 trou) et il me manque 18 mailles a la fin du rang...
12.08.2020 - 16:48DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Isabelle, vous n'avez pas de jetés côte à côte dans le point ajouré, vous aurez par ex au 1er rang de A.1a: 2 m end, 2 m ens à l'end, 1 jeté, 1 m end, 1 jeté, glisser 1 maille à l'endroit, tricoter 1 maille endroit, passer la maille glissée par-dessus la maille tricotée, 1 m end (= 8 mailles). Vous pouvez mettre un marqueur entre chaque diagramme pour pouvoir bien vérifier le nombre de mailles à chaque rang: 8 mailles pour A.1a et A.1b et 9 mailles pour A.1c. Bon tricot!
12.08.2020 - 17:09Isabelle wrote:
J'ai tricote le 1er rang des diagrammes. Je suis au 2ieme rang soit sur l'envers donc je tricote a l'endroit toutes les mailles. Par contre, lorsque j'arrive a la jete double, je lache la 1iere jete mais dois-je tricoter la 2ieme a l'endroit ou l'envers apres avoir lache la 1iere jete? Merci a l'avance.
05.08.2020 - 17:55DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Isabelle, sur l'envers, vous tricotez toutes les mailles à l'endroit, autrement dit, les jetés aussi: lâchez le 1er jeté et tricotez le 2ème à l'endroit. Bon tricot!
06.08.2020 - 08:57Isabelle wrote:
Merci mais les 3 diagrammes n'arrivent pas exact avec mon total de mailles sur les rangs #3,5,7,9 & 11. Je tricote le XXXL donc 159 mailles totales. Pouvez-vous expliquer en details comment dois-je tricoter les 3 diagrammes sur tous les rangs ci-haut-mentionnes en commencant par le rang#3 s.v.p.? Merci.
08.07.2020 - 20:33DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Isabelle, si le 1er rang passe, les autres doivent passer car ils se tricotent sur le même nombre de mailes. La seule "subtilité" se trouve au 5ème rang, car on va tricoter A.1a sur 7 m, le 1er jeté de A.1a= dernière m de A.1a et idem pour A.1b: la dernière m de chaque A.1b se tricote avec les 2 premières du b suivant/de c. Tricotez ainsi: 3 m point mousse, A.1a, 17xA.1b, A.1c, 3 m point mousse soit: 3+8+ 136+9+3=159 m. Suivez bien le conseil des marqueurs, c'est le meilleur moyen de bien suivre les diagrammes. Bon tricot!
09.07.2020 - 09:13Isabelle wrote:
Je fais ce modele dans le XXXL mais les motifs ne s'agencent pas apres avoir termine les 12 rangs 1 fois des 3 diagrammes. Rendu au 3ie rang du diagramme A.1c, il me reste 5 mailles au lieu de 9 + les 3 m au point mousse. Comment puis-je arriver au meme nombre de mailles pour cette taille (XXXL)? Merci.
07.07.2020 - 22:52DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Isabelle, les diagrammes se tricotent toujours sur le même nombre de mailles: 8 pour A.1a et A.1b et 9 pour A.1c (pour que le motif soit symétrique de chaque côté). Pour vous aider, vous pouvez ajouter un marqueur/un fil marqueur entre chaque diagramme que vous tricotez, ainsi, vous pourrez vérifier votre nombre de mailles à chaque rang. Bon tricot!
08.07.2020 - 08:26