DROPS Kid-Silk
DROPS Kid-Silk
75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 6.75 $ /25g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 81.00$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

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Blackberry Crush Cardigan

Knitted jacket with raglan, stripes and seed stitch (double vertically), worked top down. Size: S - XXXL Piece is knitted in 3 strands DROPS Kid-Silk.

DROPS 187-39
DROPS design: Pattern ks-131
Yarn group A + A + A
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS KID-SILK from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
150-150-175-200-200-225 g color 13, pink
150-150-175-200-200-225 g color 08, gray blue

Piece can also be knitted with yarn from:
“Alternative yarn (yarn group A)” - see link below.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 and 80 cm / 16'' and 32'') SIZE 6 mm/US 10 – or size needed to get 14 stitches and 16 rows in stockinette stitch or 14 stitches and 22 rows seed stitch (double vertically) with 3 strand Kid-Silk = width 10 cm / 4'' and 10 cm / 4'' vertically.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm / 32'') SIZE 5.5 mm/US 9 for rib – or size needed to get 15 stitches and 17 rows in stockinette stitch with 3 strands Kid-Silk = width 10 cm / 4'' and 10 cm / 4'' vertically.

DROPS MOTHER-OF-PEARL BUTTON ROUND (red), NO 610: 4 pieces for all sizes
DROPS MOTHER-OF-PEARL BUTTON ROUND (blue), NO 612: 3 pieces for all sizes

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Kid-Silk
DROPS Kid-Silk
75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 6.75 $ /25g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 81.00$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
INFORMATION FOR PATTERN:

GARTER STITCH (back and forth):
1 ridge = knit 2 rows.

PATTERN:
See diagram A.1.
Diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from the right side.

SEED STITCH (double vertically):
ROUND/ROW 1: * Knit 1, purl 1 *, repeat from *-*.
ROUND/ROW 2: Knit over knit and purl over purl.
ROUND/ROW 3: Purl over knit and knit over purl.
ROUND/ROW 4: Repeat 2nd round.
Repeat rounds/rows 1 to 4.

STRIPES (yoke and body):
STRIPE 1: 3 strands pink for 23-23-24-25-25-26 cm / 9 1/8"-9 1/8"-9½"-10"-10"-10 3/8"
STRIPE 2: 2 strands pink + 1 strand gray blue (= 3 strands) for 8-9-9-9-10-10 cm / 3 1/8"-3½"-3½"-3½"-4"-4"
STRIPE 3: 1 strand pink + 2 strands gray blue (= 3 strands) for 8-9-9-9-10-10 cm / 3 1/8"-3½"-3½"-3½"-4"-4"
STRIPE 4: 3 strands gray blue for 24-24-25-26-26-27 cm / 9½"-9½"-10"-10 3/8"-10 3/8"-10¾"

STRIPES (sleeve):
STRIPE 1: Continue with 2 strands pink + 1 strand gray blue (= 3 strands) until 8-9-9-9-10-10 cm / 3 1/8"-3½"-3½"-3½"-4"-4" in total have been worked (i.e. approx. 0-2-3-4-5-6 cm / 0"-¾"-1 1/8"-1½"-2"-2 3/8" /on yoke and approx. 8-7-6-5-5-4 cm / 3 1/8"-2¾"-2 3/8"-2"-2"-1½" on sleeve).
STRIPE 2: 1 strand pink + 2 strands gray blue (= 3 strands) for 8-9-9-9-10-10 cm / 3 1/8"-3½"-3½"-3½"-4"-4"
STRIPE 3: 3 strands gray blue until finished measurements (approx. 21-19-19-18-17-16 cm / 8 3/8"-7½"-7½"-7 1/8"-6¾"-6 3/8").

RAGLAN:
Increase 1 stitch on each side of every A.1 (= 8 stitches increased on row):
Increase 1 stitch by making 1 yarn over. On next row work yarn over twisted to avoid holes Then work the new stitches in seed stitch (double vertically).

DECREASE TIP-1 (evenly):
To calculate how to decrease evenly, use the total number of stitches on row (e.g. 86 stitches), minus bands (e.g. 8 stitches) and divide the remaining stitches by number of decreases to be done (e.g. 5) = 15.6. In this example knit approx. every 15th and 16th stitch together and do not decrease of bands.

DECREASE TIP-2 (applies to sleeves):
Work until 4 stitches remain before marker and knit 2 together, work 4 stitches in seed stitch (= marker thread is between these stitches), slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked.

BUTTONHOLES (top down):
Decrease for buttonholes on right band (when garment is worn). Decrease from right side when 3 stitches remain on row as follows: Make 1 yarn over, knit the next 2 stitches together, knit last stitch. On next row knit yarn over to make holes.
Decrease first buttonhole when rib in neck measures approx. 4 cm / 1½''. Then decrease the next 6 approx. 10 cm / 4'' between each.
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JACKET:
Worked back and forth on circular needle, top down. Work sleeves in the round on a short circular needle/double pointed needles. Piece is knitted in 3 strands Kid-Silk.

NECK EDGE:
Cast on 86-90-94-94-98-106 stitches with 3 strands pink on circular needle SIZE 5.5 mm/US 9. Purl 1 row from wrong side. Now work rib from right side as follows:
4 band stitches in GARTER STITCH - see explanation above, (knit 2/purl 2) until 6 stitches remain on needle, knit 2, 4 band stitches in garter stitch. Continue rib like this until piece measures 4 cm / 1½''. Knit 1 row from right side while decreasing 5 stitches evenly (but not over bands) - read DECREASE TIP-1 (evenly) = 81-85-89-89-93-101 stitches. Work 1 row from wrong side. REMEMBER BUTTONHOLES! Insert a marker thread mid front on band. NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE! Switch to circular needle size 6 mm / US 10.

YOKE:
Now work STRIPES (yoke and body) – see explanation above, and pattern from right side as follows:
4 band stitches in garter stitch, 8-9-10-10-11-13 stitches SEED STITCH (double vertically) – see explanation above, (= left front piece), make 1 yarn over, A.1 (= 6 stitches), make 1 yarn over, 8 stitches seed stitch (= sleeve), make 1 yarn over, A.1, make 1 yarn over, 17-19-21-21-23-27 stitches in seed stitch (= back piece), make 1 yarn over, A.1, make 1 yarn over, 8 stitches in seed stitch (= sleeve), make 1 yarn over, A.1, make 1 yarn over, 8-9-10-10-11-13 stitches in seed stitch (= right front piece), 4 band stitches in garter stitch. REMEMBER THE GAUGE! First increase for RAGLAN - see explanation above, is now done. Continue like this and increase every other row 22-23-25-27-29-31 times in total = 257-269-289-305-325-349 stitches. Continue until piece measures 23-25-27-29-30-32 cm / 9 1/8"-10"-10¾"-11½"-12"-12¾" from marker thread on band mid front and down.

Work next row from right side as follows:
Work as before over the first 37-39-42-44-47-51 stitches (= left front piece), cast on 6-6-8-8-10-10 new stitches on row (= in the side under sleeve), and slip the next 58-60-64-68-72-76 stitches on a stitch holder (= sleeve), work the next 67-71-77-81-87-95 stitches (= back piece), cast on 6-6-8-8-10-10 new stitches on row (= in the side under sleeves), slip the next 58-60-64-68-72-76 stitches on a stitch holder (= sleeve), work the remaining 37-39-42-44-47-51 stitches (= right front piece). NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE!

BODY:
= 153-161-177-185-201-217 stitches. Continue with 4 band stitches in garter stitch, seed stitch (double vertically) and stripes as before until piece measures 40-40-40-40-41-41 cm / 16"-16"-16"-16"-16 3/8"-16 3/8". Bind off stitches with knit over knit and purl over purl. Make a yarn over after approx. every 4th stitch while binding off (bind off yarn over as stitch) to make the bind-off edge more elastic. Piece measures approx. 68-70-72-74-76-78 cm / 26¾''-27½''-28 3/8''-29 1/8''-30''-30¾'' from shoulder and down.

SLEEVES:
Slip the 58-60-64-68-72-76 stitches from stitch holder in one side of piece on a short circular needle/double pointed needles size 6 mm / US 10 and pick in addition up 1 stitch in each of the 6-6-8-8-10-10 stitches mid under sleeve = 64-66-72-76-82-86 stitches. Insert a marker thread in the middle of the new stitches in the side under the sleeve. Continue with seed stitch (double vertically) and STRIPES (sleeve) - see explanation above. When piece measures 3 cm / 1 1/8" / 1'', decrease 2 stitch mid under sleeve – read DECREASE TIP-2. Decrease like this every 3rd-3rd-3rd-2nd-2nd-2nd round 18-18-21-22-25-26 times in total = 28-30-30-32-32-34 stitches. Continue to work until piece measures 33-31-30-28-28-26 cm / 13 1/8"-12 3/8"-12"-11 1/8"-11 1/8"-10 3/8". Knit 1 round while increasing 4-6-6-8-8-10 stitches evenly = 32-36-36-40-40-44 stitches. Switch to double pointed needles SIZE 5.5 mm/US 9 and work rib = knit 2/purl 2 for 4 cm / 1½''. Switch back to double pointed needles size 6 mm / US 10 and bind off with knit over knit and purl over purl. Make sure that the bind-off edge is not too tight. Sleeve measures approx. 37-35-34-32-32-30 cm / 14¾"-14"-13½"-12¾"-12¾"-11 3/4". Work the other sleeve the same way.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 18.09.2018
Correction - DECREASE TIP-2 (applies to sleeves): Work until 4 stitches remain before marker

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = knit from the right side, purl from the wrong side
symbols = purl from the right side, knit from the wrong side
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (10)

country flag Louise Désilets wrote:

Tout de suite après la séparation sous les manches, on tricote 42 m., on monte 8 m., ensuite 77 m. mais ensuite, après 77 + 8 m. , ça ne peut plus arriver vu que les77 m. sont impaires, je suis rendue à une m. endroit alors que je dois tricoter envers.

12.05.2022 - 03:20

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Désilets, lors de la séparation, tricotez les mailles de A.1 comme avant de part et d'autre des 71 mailles du dos, au rang suivant (= sur l'envers), tricotez toutes les mailles au point de blé, même celles de A.1. Bon tricot!

12.05.2022 - 09:09

country flag Zofia wrote:

Czy można w tym wzorze zastąpić podwójny ryż pojedynczym?

29.10.2021 - 12:05

DROPS Design answered:

Witaj Zofio! Oczywiście, że tak. Zrób tylko próbkę i ważne aby zgadzała się również na wysokość, z uwagi na reglany. Pozdrawiamy!

29.10.2021 - 12:19

country flag Patricia wrote:

Bonjour, doit-on continuer à faire le diagramme A1 lorsqu'on arrive au dos et devant merci Il est bien dommage que les photos misent en ligne ne soit pas autant exploitable on ne voit que rarement des photos de dos, ni le tricot vraiment porté dans toute sa longueur (les personnes sont souvent assise pliée ) en fait on ne peut pas avoir un vrai rendu de ce que cela va donné au final cordialement

26.10.2020 - 08:30

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Patricia, après la division de l'ouvrage, on tricote au point de blé sur toutes la mailles, avec 4 m de bordure devant au point mousse comme avant, autrement dit, on ne tricote plus A.1 sur la partie basse du gilet. Bon tricot!

26.10.2020 - 09:37

country flag Katrīne Kļaviņa wrote:

For this pattern, I don't quite understand how to start and how stiches should I cast on for the beginning. Where can I read on how to understand your pattern information?

13.03.2020 - 17:17

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Katrine, we have a number of videos here and a number of lessons here that can help you make sense of our patterns. Also you can always get help (either in person, or over the phone) in the store where you got your DROPS yarn from. Happy Crafting!

14.03.2020 - 22:13

country flag Sari wrote:

Hei, kun minulla on 161 silmukkaa työssä ja alan neuloa etu- ja takakappaletta (hihat apulangalla), niin en saa helmineuletta oikein: jälkimmäisen hihan kohdalle päädyttyäni huomasin, että kuuden luodun silmukan tienoilla joutuisin tekemään peräkkäin kaksi oikeaa tai nurjaa silmukkaa, jotta kerroksen loppu helmineule menisi oikein. Miten tämä pitäisi tehdä oikeaoppisesti?

28.09.2018 - 15:49

DROPS Design answered:

Hei, helmineuleen pitäisi jatkua rikkoutumattomana, koska apulangalle siirretään parillinen määrä silmukoita ja tilalle luodaan myös parillinen määrä silmukoita.

19.11.2018 - 17:25

Maria Francisca wrote:

Buenas, estoy iniciando las mangas y no se cómo disminuir para que no me queden dos puntos de derecho juntos. Por favor su ayuda. Les saluda. Francisca Gracias y saludos.

13.09.2018 - 04:41

Maria Francisca wrote:

Buenas, estoy iniciando las mangas y no se cómo disminuir para que no me queden dos puntos de derecho juntos. Por favor si ayuda. Gracias y saludos.

13.09.2018 - 04:39

country flag Lonni Eriksen wrote:

Jeg vil gerne strikke denne cardigan ensfarvet i 1tråd Alpaca Silk uni colour + 1 tråd Alpaca uni colour ?

13.08.2018 - 12:47

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Lonne, for at få samme strikkefasthed (for rigtige mål) som der står i opskriften skal du bruge 3 tråde fra garngruppe A (se link i opskriften). God fornøjelse!

14.08.2018 - 13:06

country flag Mercedes wrote:

¡Hola! Muchas gracias por los patrones que comparten. Acabo de empezar esta chaqueta. Tengo el escote, el primer ojal y la primera fila de aumentos para el canesú tal y como se indica en el patrón, pero no puedo avanzar porque no se explica cómo van los aumentos en las siguientes vueltas del canesú (es imposible que sean iguales a la primera). ¿Podrían especificarlo, por favor? Muchas gracias.

08.04.2018 - 00:04

DROPS Design answered:

Hola Mercedes, las siguientes filas del canesú se trabajan como la primera fila del canesú- fíjate en el RAGLÁN.

08.04.2018 - 19:12

country flag Tianna Stokes wrote:

Very nice patterns I've been using for a few years now as love Drops Alpaca Yarns but just lately I can not print or use the patterns off line in iBooks as all the diagrams don't show.

02.03.2018 - 17:08

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Stokes, make sure your browser is updated, you should see all diagrams/measurement chart. Happy knitting!

05.03.2018 - 07:50