DROPS / 181 / 25

Arendal Cardigan by DROPS Design

Knitted jacket with cables and raglan, worked top down. Sizes S - XXXL. The piece is worked in DROPS Puna.

DROPS Design: Pattern no pu-019
Yarn group B
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Sizes: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS PUNA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
500-550-600-700-750-800 g color 15, north sea

The piece can also be knitted with yarn from:
"Alternative yarn (Yarn group B)" – see the link below.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 and 60 or 80 cm / 24'' or 32'') SIZE 4.5 mm/US 7 – or the size needed to get 20 stitches and 26 rows stockinette stitch on 10 cm / 4'' in width and 10 cm / 4'' in height.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 or 80 cm / 24'' or 32'') SIZE 4 mm/US 6 for rib – or the size needed to get 21 stitches and 28 rows stockinette stitch on 10 cm / 4'' in width and 10 cm / 4'' in height.

DROPS MOTHER OF PEARL BUTTONS Arched (white), NO 522: 6-6-6-7-7-7 items.

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 5 ft 7 in and uses size S or M. If you are making a sweater, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

100% Alpaca
from 4.20 $ /50g
DROPS Puna natural DROPS Puna natural 4.20 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
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DROPS Puna natural mix DROPS Puna natural mix 4.20 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
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DROPS Puna uni colour DROPS Puna uni colour 4.80 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
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DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 42.00$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
INFORMATION FOR THE PATTERN:

RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
1 ridge = Knit 2 rows.

PATTERN:
See diagram A.1. The diagram shows all the rows in the pattern seen from the right side.

RAGLAN:
Increase to raglan on each side of A.1.
Increase 1 stitch on each side of A.1 as follows (= 8 new stitches each time you increase).
Work to A.1, 1 yarn over, work A.1, 1 yarn over. On the next round, purl the yarn overs twisted to prevent holes.

INCREASE TIP (for the sides):
Work until there are 2 stitches left before the marker thread in the side. Make 1 yarn over, knit 2 stitches (the marker thread sits between these) and make 1 yarn over.
On the next round, purl the yarn overs twisted to prevent holes.

DECREASE TIP (for sleeves):
Decrease 1 stitch on each side of the marker thread as follows: Work until there are 3 stitches left before the marker thread, slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over, knit 2 stitches (the marker thread sits between these stitches), knit the next 2 stitches together.

BUTTONHOLE:
The first buttonhole is worked when the rib in the neck measures 3 cm / 1'', then work the 5-5-5-6-6-6 next buttonholes with approx. 8 cm / 3 1/8'' between them.
Decrease for buttonhole on the right band as follows: Work until there are 3 stitches left on the needle (seen from the right side), make 1 yarn over, knit 2 together and knit 1. On the next row, knit the yarn over, so that there is a hole.
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The jacket is worked back and forth with circular needle, from mid front and top down.

JACKET:
Cast on 120-128-132-136-144-144 stitches (including 5 band stitches in each side towards mid front) with circular needle size 4 mm / US 6 and Puna. Purl 1 row from the wrong side, then work as follows – from the right side: 5 stitches garter stitch, * knit 2/ purl 2 *, repeat from *-* until there are 7 stitches left, knit 2 stitches and 5 stitches garter stitch. REMEMBER BUTTONHOLE! Continue with rib in this way for 4 cm / 1½''. The last row is from the wrong side. Change to circular needle size 4.5 mm / US 7. Work 1 RIDGE – see description above, on the first row, decrease 2 stitches evenly on row = 118-126-130-134-142-142 stitches. Continue as follows – from the right side: Work 5 stitches garter stitch, knit 11-12-13-15-16-18, *1 yarn over, knit 1 *, repeat from *-* a total of 3 times, knit 1, * 1 yarn over, knit 1 *, repeat from *-* a total of 3 times (= these 7 stitches become 13 stitches), knit 18-20-20-18-20-16, *1 yarn over, knit 1 *, repeat from *-* a total of 3 times, knit 1, * 1 yarn over, knit 1 *, repeat from *-* a total of 3 times, knit 22-24-26-30-32-36, * 1 yarn over, knit 1 *, repeat from *-* a total of 3 times, knit 1, * 1 yarn over, knit 1 *, repeat from *-* a total of 3 times, knit 18-20-20-18-20-16, *1 yarn over, knit 1 *, repeat from *-* a total of 3 times, knit 1, * 1 yarn over, knit 1 *, repeat from *-* a total of 3 times, knit 11-12-13-15-16-18 and 5 stitches garter stitch = 142-150-154-158-166-166 stitches. Purl 1 row from the wrong side; the yarn overs are purled twisted to prevent holes and the bands are knitted. Continue as follows from the right side: Work 5 stitches garter stitch (= band stitches), 4-5-6-8-9-11 stitches stockinette stitch (= left front piece), A.1 (= 27 stitches), 4-6-6-4-6-2 stitches stockinette stitch (= sleeve), A.1, 8-10-12-16-18-22 stitches stockinette stitch (= back piece), A1, 4-6-6-4-6-2 stitches stockinette stitch (= sleeve), A.1, 4-5-6-8-9-11 stitches stockinette stitch (= right front piece and finish with 5 stitches garter stitch (= band stitches).

READ THE WHOLE OF THE NEXT SECTION BEFORE CONTINUING!
Continue this pattern, at the same time increase on each side of A.1 to RAGLAN – see description above. Increase every 2nd row (= each row from the right side) 21-24-27-30-32-35 times. REMEMBER THE GAUGE! After all the increases, there are 310-342-370-398-422-446 stitches on the needle. Continue the pattern as before (without increases) until the piece measures 22-24-26-29-30-33 cm / 8 3/4"-9½"-10 1/4"-11½"-11 3/4"-13" from the cast-on edge mid front.

The next row is worked as follows from the wrong side: Work 50-54-58-63-68-73 stitches (= right front piece), place the next 60-68-74-78-80-82 stitches on 1 thread (= sleeve), cast on 8-8-10-10-12-14 new stitches on the needle (= under the sleeve), work 90-98-106-116-126-136 stitches (= back piece), place the next 60-68-74-78-80-82 stitches on 1 thread (= sleeve), cast on 8-8-10-10-12-14 new stitches on the needle (= under the sleeve) and work the remaining 50-54-58-63-68-73 stitches (= left front piece).

BODY:
= 206-222-242-262-286-310 stitches. THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE! Insert a marker thread in each side, in the middle of the new stitches cast on. Continue back and forth with stockinette stitch and 5 stitches garter stitch in each side of the piece. REMEMBER BUTTONHOLE. Continue A.1 over the 20-20-20-20-22-22 stitches in the pattern which remain on the front and back pieces, but on every 2nd row (= each row from the right side) make 1 yarn over on the outside of each A.1 (= towards mid front and mid back) and knit 2 stitches together on each side of the marker thread in the sides.
The yarn overs are purled twisted on the next row to prevent holes. The number of stitches remains the same, but the stitches in A.1 will gradually decrease towards the sides of the jacket and there will be more and more stitches in stockinette stitch. When there are not enough stitches in A.1 to work 6-stitch cable, work these stitches in stockinette stitch, AT THE SAME TIME as you decrease 3 stitches evenly over the cable, do not decrease over the cable with 2 stitches (remember to make the increase on the outside of A.1 and decrease on each side of the marker threads). When all of A.1 has been decreased there are 182-198-218-238-262-286 stitches on the row. Continue with stockinette stitch and garter stitch over the band stitches. There is 48-52-57-62-68-74 stitches on each front piece and 86-94-104-114-126-138 stitches on back piece. When the piece measures 15-15-15-15-15-15 cm / 6" all sizes increase 1 stitch on each side of the marker threads (= 4 stitches increased) – READ INCREASE TIP! Increase every 5 cm / 2'' a total of 4 times = 198-214-234-254-278-302 stitches. When the piece measures 32-32-32-31-32-31 cm / 12½"-12½"-12½"-12 1/4"-12½"-12 1/4", purl 1 row from the wrong side where you increase 42-46-50-54-58-62 stitches evenly on row (the bands are continued in garter stitch, do not increase over these stitches) = 240-260-284-308-336-364 stitches. Change to circular needle size 4 mm / US 6. On the next row from the right side, work as follows: 5 stitches garter stitch, * knit 2, purl 2 *, repeat from *-* until there are 7 stitches left, knit 2 stitches and 5 stitches garter stitch. Work rib for 2 cm / 3/4'', bind off loosely, with knit over knit and purl over purl. The jacket measures approx. 60-62-64-66-68-70 cm / 23 5/8''-24 3/8''-25¼''-26''-26¾''-27½'' from the shoulder.

SLEEVE:
The piece is worked in the round with circular needle/double pointed needles. Place the 60-68-74-78-80-82 stitches from the thread in the one side of the piece on a short circular needle size 4.5 mm / US 7. In addition, cast on 8-8-10-10-12-14 new stitches mid under the sleeve = 68-76-84-88-92-96 stitches on the needle. Insert a marker thread in the middle of these new stitches – The piece is now measured from here! Work stockinette stitch in the round. When the piece measures 2-2-2-2-2-4 cm / 3/4"-3/4"-3/4"-3/4"-3/4"-1½'' decrease 2 stitches mid under the sleeve – READ DECREASE TIP. Decrease every 3-2-1½ -1½-1½-1 cm / 1"-3/4"-½"-½"-½"-3/8" a total of 12-15-18-19-20-21 times = 44-46-48-50-52-54 stitches. When the sleeve measures 38-36-35-33-32-30 cm / 15"-14 1/4"-13 3/4"-13-"12½"-11 3/4"' increase 4-6-8-6-8-10 stitches evenly on round = 48-52-56-56-60-64 stitches. Change to double pointed needles size 4 mm / US 6 and work rib, knit 2/ purl 2 over all stitches. Bind off with knit over knit and purl over purl when the sleeve measures 43-41-40-38-37-35 cm / 17"-16"-15 3/4"-15"-14 1/4"-13 3/4". Work the other sleeve in the same way.


ASSEMBLY:
Sew the openings under the sleeves. Sew the buttons onto the left band.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

= knit from the right side, purl from the wrong side
= purl from the right side, knit from the wrong side
= place 3 stitches on cable needle in front of the piece, knit 3 stitches, knit 3 stitches from cable needle
= place 3 stitches on cable needle behind the piece, knit 3 stitches, knit 3 stitches from cable needle
= place 1 stitch on cable needle in front of the piece, knit 1, knit 1 from cable needle
= place 1 stitch on cable needle behind the piece, knit 1, knit 1 from cable needle


Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 181-25) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (31)

Suma 06.06.2020 - 18:37:

I am very confused between the size shown and pattern stitches. As per the measurements shown, the neck width is (size S) 17x2=34 cm. As per the gauge (2.1 stitches US 6 needles)the CO should be 31x2.1 = 71 stitches + 10 Band = 81 stitches. But the pattern says CO=120 stitches - WHY? Also, after the neck rib, the stitches are increased to 132 (142-10). WHY? Also, as per the size chart, bust is 86 cm (round) = 181 stitches -- where is this number in the pattern.

DROPS Design 08.06.2020 kl. 08:34:

Dear Suma, tension is measured in stocking stitch but neck is worked in rib - rib tighten work, ie you need much more stitches with rib than with stocking stitch for same width. You then have to increase to keep correct width when starting cables. Make sure your tension is right and keep it all the way, to get the same measurements as in the measurement chart. Happy knitting!

Anja 02.12.2019 - 10:26:

Hallo Liebes Drops-Team! Rumpfteil: Mache ich grade einen Fehler? Wie komme ich von 242 M auf 218 M, wenn doch gleichzeitig zu- und abgenommen wird? Die gleichmäßig verteilten Abnahmen hab ich gemacht...dann bin ich bei 230M. Aber dann hab ich immer noch 12 M zu viel! Ich hoffe, ihr könnt mir helfen! Liebe Grüße Anja

DROPS Design 02.12.2019 kl. 10:50:

Liebe Anja, haben Sie auch die Abnahmen in Zöpfen gestrickt? Wenn nicht mehr genug Maschen in A.1 vorhanden sind, um 6 Maschen zu verzopfen, diese Maschen glatt rechts stricken, GLEICHZEITIG je 3 Maschen gleichmäßig verteilt über diesen Zöpfen abnehmen, es wird nicht bei den Zöpfen aus 2 Maschen abgenommen (nicht vergessen, an der Außenseite von A.1 zuzunehmen und beidseitig jedes Markierungsfadens abzunehmen). . Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Ragnhildur 17.08.2019 - 11:59:

Góðan dag. Ég skil ekki alveg hvort kaðlarnir me 2 lykkjum eigi að halda áfram niður bolinn eða hvað?

DROPS Design 10.09.2019 kl. 23:35:

Blessuð. Litlu kaðlarnir halda áfram niður bolinn. Gangi þér vel.

Annie JANICKI 26.05.2019 - 01:15:

Bonjour, pour passer de 134 m à 158 m on a "1 jeté, 1m endroit" 3 fois puis 1 m endroit donc 10 m et 9 jetés mais vous indiquez "ces 7 m sont augmentées à 13 m" et là c'est que je suis perdue!!! Merci pour votre réponse

DROPS Design 27.05.2019 kl. 10:21:

Bonjour Mme Janicki, les 7 mailles (après les 15 m end) vont se tricoter ainsi: *1 jeté, 1 m end* x 3 (= on a maintenant 6 m au lieu de 3), 1 m end, *1 jeté, 1 m end* x 3 (= on a maintenant 6 m au lieu de 3), vous avez maintenant: 6 + 1 + 6 m = 13 m au-desssus des 3 + 1 + 3 m du rang précédent. Bon tricot!

Scherrer 16.03.2019 - 20:13:

Je suis en train de faire ce gilet et j'ai un problème au niveau du dos et devant. Il est dit que quand il n'y a plus assez de mailles pour faire les torsades, il faut tricoter les mailles en jersey et diminuer de 3m au dessus de chaque torsade , ce qui fait donc 8x 3 diminuer par rang. Es ce exact? Merci pour votre réponse

DROPS Design 18.03.2019 kl. 08:21:

Bonjour Mme Scherrer. C'est correct. Grace a cette demarche, l'ouvrage ne sera trop large au pied des torsades. Bon travail!

Agnes 25.02.2019 - 17:59:

To get to 198s on the body do you decrease all the 24 stitches on the same row

DROPS Design 26.02.2019 kl. 10:26:

Dear Agnes, you will decrease 12 sts a total of 2 times, ie you will first dec 3 sts in each cable in A.1 towards mid under sleeve (when there are not enough sts to work these cables because of the decrease), then you will decrease 3 sts in the remaining cable in A.1 some rows later when there will be not enough sts to work these cables. Happy knitting!

Flo 12.01.2019 - 16:21:

Hi I am confused about the decrease on the six stitch cable. Will it be a decrease of 24 stitches altogether on one row? Or 12?

DROPS Design 14.01.2019 kl. 10:15:

Dear Flo, you will decrease alltogether 24 sts on row - remember to continue dec/inc as before - but since cables are tighten work, you need to dec to keep correct width. Happy knitting!

Kim 07.10.2018 - 10:31:

Teil 2: Das würde auch heissen, dass ich in eben diesem Umgang den allerletzten 6er Zopf mache, da dann nach weiteren 3x Abnehmen vor dem Markierungsfaden auch für den ersten 6er Zopf in A1 nicht mehr genügend Maschen vorhanden wären. Das heisst ich hätte dann nur 9 mal die 6er Zöpfe gestrickt (Grösse M, stricke eher fest, Maschenanzahl stimmt 222), doch auf dem Foto, welches S oder M sein soll, sieht es eher nach mind. 12 6er Zöpfen aus. Stimmt ewas nicht? Bin froh um jeden Tipp. Danke!

DROPS Design 08.10.2018 kl. 08:56:

Liebe Kim, wieviele A.1 in der Höhe stricken werden hängt auch von Ihrer Maschenprobe in der Höhe. Die Hauptsache ist, daß beide A.1 unter jedem Ärmel wie eine 3-Eck endet (= mit Zu- und Abnahmen). Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Kim 07.10.2018 - 10:20:

Teil 1: Guten Tag. Komme ich zu dem Umgang in welchem für den zweiten 6er Zopf in A1 zu wenige Maschen vorhanden sind, so sieht das Muster wie folgt aus: 1 re, 2li, 2re, 2li, 6er Zopf, 1li (Mittelmasche), 6 re, Marierungsfaden. Nun soll ich also in diesem Umgang aus diesen 6 M vor der Markierung sowohl die zwei letzten Maschen vor dem Markierungsfaden zusammenstricken und zusätzlich 3 Maschen abnhemen. Das heisst im müsste aus den 6re Maschen vor der Markierung 2 machen?

DROPS Design 08.10.2018 kl. 08:53:

Liebe Kim, die Abnahmen entstehen in den 6er Zopf, die Sie nicht mehr als Zopf stricken können (so wird dieses Teil nicht breiter sein) - auf beiden Seiten wiederholen. Die anderen Maschen wie zuvor stricken. Sie werden dann bei dieser Reihe Maschen abnehmen, dann wie zuvor weiter stricken (mit Zu- und Abnahme bis keine Maschen in A.1 gestrickt werden). Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Diane 04.07.2018 - 06:30:

How do I print the photo of pattern pu-019?

DROPS Design 04.07.2018 kl. 07:20:

Dear Diane, click on "Picture" between "Print pattern" and "Add to favorites", just above where you can read "Pattern instructions". Happy knitting!

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