DROPS / 179 / 8

Nineveh Jumper by DROPS Design

Jumper with round yoke, lace pattern and A-shape, knitted top down. Size: S - XXXL Piece is worked in DROPS BabyMerino and DROPS Kid-Silk.

DROPS design: Pattern no bm-036
Yarn group A + A or C
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS BABY MERINO from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
250-250-300-300-350-400 g color 02, off white
And use:
DROPS KID-SILK from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
100-125-125-150-150-175 g color 01, off white

Piece can also be knitted with yarn from:
“Alternative yarn (yarn group A)” - see link below.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40, 60 and 80 cm / 24'' and 32'') SIZE 5 mm/US 8 – or size needed to get 17 stitches and 22 rows in stockinette stitch with 1 strand of each quality = width 10 cm / 4'' and 10 cm / 4'' vertically.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 and 80 cm / 16'' and 32'') SIZE 4.5 mm/US 7 for edges in garter stitch – or size needed to get 18 stitches and 23 rows in stockinette stitch with 1 strand of each quality = width 10 cm / 4'' and 10 cm / 4'' vertically.

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 5 ft 7 in and uses size S or M. If you are making a sweater, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

100% Wool
from 4.20 $ /50g
DROPS Baby Merino uni colour DROPS Baby Merino uni colour 4.20 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
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DROPS Baby Merino mix DROPS Baby Merino mix 4.20 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
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75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 5.80 $ /25g
DROPS Kid-Silk uni colour DROPS Kid-Silk uni colour 5.80 $ /25g
Purple Sheep Yarns
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DROPS Kid-Silk long print DROPS Kid-Silk long print 5.80 $ /25g
Purple Sheep Yarns
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DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 44.20$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
INFORMATION FOR PATTERN:

GARTER STITCH (worked in the round):
1 ridge = 2 rounds. Knit 1 round and purl 1 round.

ELEVATION:
Knit over the next 8-9-10-10-10-11, turn, tighten yarn and knit 16-18-20-20-20-22, turn, tighten yarn and knit 24-27-30-30-31-33, turn, tighten yarn and knit 32-36-40-40-42-44, turn, tighten yarn and knit 40-45-50-50-53-55, turn, tighten yarn and knit 48-54-60-60-64-66, turn, tighten yarn and knit until beginning of round.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.5. Diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from the right side. Choose diagram for your size (applies to diagram A.2).

INCREASE TIP:
To calculate how to increase evenly, use the total number of stitches on row (e.g. 84 stitches) and divide number of stitches by number of increases to be done (e.g. 6) = 14. In this example increase after approx. every 14th stitch. Increase 1 stitch by making 1 yarn over. On next round work yarn over twisted to avoid hole.

DECREASE TIP (applies to mid under sleeve):
Begin 4 stitches before stitch with marker, knit 2 together, A.5 (= 5 stitches), slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked (= 2 stitches decreased).
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JUMPER:
Worked in the round on circular needle from mid back. Work top down. Work sleeves in the round on double pointed needles/a short circular needle.

YOKE:
Cast on 84-88-92-96-102-108 stitches on a short circular needle size 4.5 mm / US 7 with 1 strand Baby Merino + 1 strand Kid-Silk (= 2 strands). Work 2 ridges in GARTER STITCH - see explanation above. Knit 1 round while increasing 6-11-16-12-15-18 stitches evenly - read INCREASE TIP = 90-99-108-108-117-126 stitches. Insert a marker thread at beginning of round (i.e. between first and last stitch on round) = mid back. Purl 1 round. For better fit work a small ELEVATION at the back of neck - see explanation above. When elevation has been worked, switch to circular needle size 5 mm / US 8.
Now displace beginning of round as follows:
Knit 4-8-4-4-8-4 and insert a new marker thread before next stitch. This is now the new beginning on round, and this is done to make the lace pattern symmetrical mid front! Work PATTERN in the round as follows: * A.1 (= 2 stitches), A.2 (= 7 stitches) *, work from *-* the entire round (= 10-11-12-12-13-14 times). Continue pattern like this and increase as shown in diagram. When A.1/A.2 has been worked 1 time vertically, there are 240-264-288-312-338-364 stitches on round. Work 1-3-7-1-5-1 rounds in stockinette stitch and increase AT THE SAME TIME 2-6-10-2-4-2 stitches evenly on first round. NOTE! To make the pattern symmetrical mid front it is important to increase the same number of stitches in each side between mid back and mid front (mid front is the middle stitch in 5th-5th-6th-6th-6th-7th repetition A.2 on round) = 242-270-298-314-342-366 stitches. Piece measures now approx. 20-21-23-25-27-29 cm / 8''-8¼''-9''-9¾''-10 5/8''-11 3/8'' from cast-on edge (measured mid front). If this measurements is not correct, work in stockinette stitch until piece has correct measurement.

Work next round as follows:
Work the first 25-16-32-34-26-44 stitches, slip the next 50-58-64-66-70-72 stitches on 1 stitch holder (= right sleeve), cast on 7-7-7-9-9-9 new stitches (= in the side under sleeve), work the next 71-77-85-91-101-111 stitches in stockinette stitch as before (= front piece), slip the next 50-58-64-66-70-72 stitches on 1 stitch holder (= left sleeve), cast on 7-7-7-9-9-9 new stitches (= in the side under sleeve) and work the remaining 46-61-53-57-75-67 stitches on round. Finish body and sleeves separately. NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE!

BODY:
= 156-168-184-200-220-240 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread in the middle of the new stitches cast on under each sleeve in each side (= 77-83-91-99-109-119 stitches between stitches with marker thread in on front piece and back piece). Work in stockinette stitch in the round, AT THE SAME TIME on next round work A.3 over the middle 5 stitches in each side (i.e. over stitches with marker thread + 2 stitches on each side of these). Continue with stockinette stitch, A.3 in the sides and increase on 7th and 15th round in diagram A.3 (= every 8th round in diagram) until piece measures 31-32-32-32-32-32 cm / 12 1/4"-12½"-12½"-12½"-12½"-12½" from division. Increase should have been done approx. 8 times in each side = approx. 188-200-216-232-252-272 stitches on round. Switch to circular needle size 4.5 mm / US 7. Work next round as follows: Work A.4 in the round. When A.4 has been worked vertically, bind off whit knit. To avoid a tight bind-off edge use a larger needle or make a yarn over that is casted off after approx. every 4th stitch. Jumper measures approx. 58-60-62-64-66-68 cm / 22¾''-23 5/8''-24 3/8''-25¼''-26''-26¾'' from shoulder and down.

SLEEVE:
Slip the 50-58-64-66-70-72 stitches from stitch holder on double pointed needles/short circular needle size 5 mm / US 8 and pick in addition up 1 stitch in each side of the 7-7-7-9-9-9 stitches cast on under sleeve (= 57-65-71-75-79-81 stitches). Insert a marker thread in the middle stitch under sleeve. Beginning of round is after the 7-7-7-9-9-9 new stitches. Work in stockinette stitch in the round but over the middle 5 stitches under sleeve (= stitch with marker thread + 2 stitches on each side of this stitch) work A.5. When piece measures 3 cm / 1'' in all sizes, decrease 2 stitches mid under sleeve - read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every 8th-5th-4th-3rd-3rd-2nd round 6-9-11-11-11-10 times in total = 45-47-49-53-57-61 stitches. When piece measures 22-22-21-19-17-15 cm / 8 3/4"-8 3/4"-8 1/4"-7½"-6 3/4"-6" from transition between yoke and sleeve, insert 3 marker threads in piece (without working stitches) as follows: Insert 1st marker thread at beginning of round, insert 2nd marker thread after 15-16-17-18-19-21 stitches, insert 3rd marker thread after 15-16-16-18-19-20 stitches = 15-15-16-17-19-20 stitches remain on round after 3rd marker thread. On next round increase 1 stitch after every marker thread by making 1 yarn over (= 3 stitches increased – knit yarn overs twisted to avoid holes).
Increase like this every 4th round 6 times in total = 63-65-67-71-75-79 stitches on needle. Work in stockinette stitch and A.5 mid under sleeve until piece measures 31-31-30-28-26-24 cm / 12 1/4"-12 1/4"-11 3/4"-11"-10 1/4"-9½" from transition between yoke and sleeve. Switch to double pointed needles size 4.5 mm / US 7. Work A.4 in the round and decrease 1 stitch on first round = 62-64-66-70-74-78 stitches. When A.4 has been worked, bind off by knitting. To avoid a tight bind-off edge use a larger needle or make a yarn over that is casted off after approx. every 4th stitch. Sleeve measures approx. 35-35-34-32-30-28 cm / 13 3/4"-13 3/4"-13½"-12½"-11 3/4"-11" from transition between yoke and sleeve. Work the other sleeve the same way.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

= knit
= purl
= between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over
= knit 2 together
= slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked
= slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 2 stitches together, pass slipped stitch over stitches worked together
= ast row in the different sizes in diagram A.1
= knitting direction




Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 179-8) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (31)

Tiziana Ragusa 21.11.2019 - 19:23:

Si può realizzare questo maglione all'uncinetto?

DROPS Design 21.11.2019 kl. 20:58:

Buonasera Tiziana, questo modello è lavorato ai ferri, ma nella nostra sezione di modelli a uncinetto può sicuramente trovare un capo di suo gradimento. Buon lavoro!

Beata 26.09.2019 - 17:02:

Proszę o informację, która część swetra jest przerabiana tylko włóczką wełnianą, a która dwiema włóczkami. Włóczki jedwabnej zabraknie, gdyż jest jej mniej o ponad połowę. Nigdzie w opisie nie znajduję takiej informacji.

DROPS Design 26.09.2019 kl. 17:37:

Witaj Beato! Cały sweter jest przerabiany 2 nitkami razem. Włóczka KID-SILK jest bardzo wydajna i wystarczy jej na cały sweterek. Długość nitki w 25 g motku Kid-Silk to 210 m, długość nitki w 50 g motku Baby Merino to ok. 175 m. Powodzenia!

Cristina 10.04.2019 - 21:51:

Perciò , come dite voi,se al 7* giri sono 204 e al 15* giro 208. Ogni motivo sono 8 m in totale. 8 motivi per 8 m sono 64 aumenti. ??????

DROPS Design 10.04.2019 kl. 23:18:

Buonasera Cristina, le istruzioni dicono di ripetere gli aumenti, non il motivo, per 8 volte. Se ci sono 2 aumenti per lato, quindi 4 aumenti a giro: 4x8 volte= 32 aumenti. Buon lavoro!

Cristina 09.04.2019 - 23:06:

Scusa ancora il disturbo, ma non riesco a capire il calcolo e , di conseguenza, i conti delle aumenti no risultano. Sono al grafico A3 ,nel fianco. Parto con 5 m e al 7* giro ho 7m +2 per parte ( dei 9 m del fisco aggiunti) ed ho 11m nel fianco. Sono già a 204 m, che però dovrei avere al15* giro. ( 91+11+91+11=204. Sicuramente sbaglio io e non vedo l’errore. Per cortesia ditemi dove sbaglio. Vi ringrazio anticipatamente per la disponibilità.

DROPS Design 10.04.2019 kl. 06:41:

Buongiorno Cristina, parte con 5 maglie per lato, che al 7mo giro diventano 7 per cui 95+7+95+7= 204. Al giro 15 le maglie saranno 208. Vengono aumentate 2 maglie per lato ad ogni giro di aumenti. Se lavora 8 volte gli aumenti le maglie da 200 diventano 232. Buon lavoro!

Cristina 09.04.2019 - 00:04:

Ok Se aumento 4 m per parte per8 volte sono 32. E l’altra parte?? Non sono altri 32? Forse sbaglio io. Grazie

DROPS Design 09.04.2019 kl. 06:35:

Buongiorno Cristina. Sono 2 maglie aumentate per ogni lato. Quindi 16 da una parte e 16 dall'altra. Buon lavoro!

Cristina 08.04.2019 - 22:37:

Buonasera, chiedo cortesemente una precisazione per maglia nineveh 179-8. Dopo aver diviso maniche e corpo non capisco conteggio aumenti. Per tg XL se aumento 8 m per parte per 8 ripetizioni dovrei avere 264 m [200 +(8 x8=64)] e in 232 come da istruzioni quale è il conteggio esatto? Vi ringrazio anticipatamente.

DROPS Design 08.04.2019 kl. 23:32:

Buongiorno Cristina. Gli aumenti sono le 2 maglie gettate dei giri 7 e 15 del diagramma A3. Quindi sono 4 maglie aumentate sul giro con aumenti. Aumentando 8 volte, 8x4 = 32 per un totale di 232 maglie. Buon lavoro!

Rita 25.09.2018 - 23:57:

Buonasera....potrei per cortesia avere un aiuto per capire meglio come iniziare il diagramma A2 nella taglia m? Non capisco cosa siano i pallini grigi tra una maglia e l’altra....grazie 1000

DROPS Design 26.09.2018 kl. 06:45:

Buongiorno Rita. È una maglia gettata tra le 2 maglie. Quindi lavora così: 1 maglia gettata, 1 maglia diritto, 1 maglia gettata, 2 m insieme a diritto, 1 m diritto, passa 1 m senza lavorarla, 1 m diritto, accavalla la m passata, 1 m gettata, 1 m dir, 1 m gettata. Buon lavoro!

TESTA 01.03.2018 - 12:50:

J'ai fait ce modèle mais les manches me semblent bien trop courtes . ce sont des manches 3/4 ? dans ce cas , il serait bon de préciser.

DROPS Design 01.03.2018 kl. 13:41:

Bonjour Mme Testa, ce pull a des manches 3/4 (ou plutôt 7/8) comme on peut le voir sur la photo et dans les mesures du schéma, Bon tricot!

Pilar Rodríguez-Sánchez 21.02.2018 - 10:21:

Veo que el patrón está corregido. Los cinco puntos de musgo a los lados y hacia el centro ya no hay que hacerlos?. Solamente el gráfico A.3 no?

DROPS Design 24.02.2018 kl. 18:57:

Hola Pilar. Si, es correcto, en los lados sólo se trabaja el diagrama A.3.

El 30.01.2018 - 17:43:

...Cambiar a aguja circular tamaño 4.5 mm. En la siguiente vuelta trabajar como sigue: trabajar A.4A en redondo. ¿Repetir A4 por todo el contorno?

DROPS Design 31.01.2018 kl. 20:37:

Hola. Sí, es correcto. Repetir A.4 toda la vuelta.

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