DROPS / 179 / 7

Nineveh by DROPS Design

Knitted jacket with round yoke, lace pattern and A-shape, worked top down. Sizes S - XXXL. The piece is worked in DROPS BabyMerino and DROPS Kid-Silk.

DROPS Design: Pattern no bm-037
Yarn group A + A or C
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Sizes: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS BABY MERINO from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
250-250-300-300-350-400 g color 02, off white
And use:
DROPS KID-SILK from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
100-125-125-150-150-175 g color 01, off white

The piece can also be knitted with yarn from:
"Alternative yarn (Yarn group A)" – see the link below.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 or 80 cm / 24'' or 32'') SIZE 5MM – or the size needed to get 17 stitches and 22 rows stockinette stitch with 1 strand of each quality on 10 cm / 4'' in width and 10 cm / 4'' in height.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 or 80 cm / 24'' or 32'') SIZE 4.5 mm/US 7 for garter stitch edges – or the size needed to get 18 stitches and 23 rows stockinette stitch with 1 strand of each quality on 10 cm / 4'' in width and 10 cm / 4'' in height.

DROPS MOTHER OF PEARL BUTTONS, Arched (white) NO 522: 6-6-6-7-7-7 items.

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 5 ft 7 in and uses size S or M. If you are making a sweater, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

100% Wool
from 4.20 $ /50g
DROPS Baby Merino uni colour DROPS Baby Merino uni colour 4.20 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Baby Merino mix DROPS Baby Merino mix 4.20 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order

75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 5.80 $ /25g
DROPS Kid-Silk uni colour DROPS Kid-Silk uni colour 5.80 $ /25g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Kid-Silk long print DROPS Kid-Silk long print 5.80 $ /25g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 44.20$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
INFORMATION FOR THE PATTERN:

RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
1 ridge = Knit 2 rows.

ELEVATION:
Start from the right side and knit the first 51-55-60-60-64-69 stitches, insert one marker (= mid back – NOTE: in M + XXL insert the marker in the next stitch, in the other sizes insert the marker before the next stitch).
Knit the next 8-9-10-10-10-11 stitches, turn, tighten the strand and knit back 16-19-20-20-21-22 stitches, turn, tighten the strand and knit 24-29-30-30-32-33 stitches, turn, tighten the strand and knit 32-39-40-40-43-44 stitches back, turn, tighten the strand and knit 40-51-50-50-56-55 stitches, turn, tighten the strand and knit 48-62-60-60-68-66 stitches back, turn, tighten the strand and knit to end of row. Knit 1 row back over all stitches from the wrong side.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.5. The diagrams show all the rows in the pattern seen from the right side. Choose diagram for your size (for diagram A.2).

INCREASE TIP:
To work out how to increase evenly, count the total number of stitches on the row (e.g. 94 stitches), minus the bands (e.g. 10 stitches) and divide the remaining stitches by the number of increases to be made (e.g. 8) = 10.5. In this example, increase alternately after approx. every 10th and 11th stitch. Do not increase over the bands.
Increase 1 stitch by making 1 yarn over. On the next row knit the yarn over twisted to prevent holes.

DECREASE TIP (for mid under the sleeve):
Start 4 stitches before the stitch with the marker thread, knit 2 together, A.5 (= 5 stitches), slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch (= 2 stitches decreased).

BUTTONHOLE:
The first buttonhole is worked on the first row from the right side after the garter stitch edge in the neck, then work the next 5-5-5-6-6-6 buttonholes with approx. 9-9-9-8-8-8 cm / 3½"-3½"-3½"-3"-3"-3" between each.
Decrease to buttonhole on the right band as follows: Work until there are 3 stitches left on the row (seen from the right side), make 1 yarn over, knit 2 together and knit 1. On the next row knit the yarn over so that there is a hole.
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JACKET:
The piece is worked back and forth with circular needle from mid front. It is worked top down. The sleeves are worked in the round with double pointed needles.

YOKE:
Cast on 94-98-102-106-112-118 stitches (including 5 band stitches in each side towards mid front) with circular needle size 4.5 mm / US 7 and 1 strand Baby Merino + 1 strand Kid-Silk (= 2 strands). Work 2 RIDGES – see description above. Knit 1 row from the right side where you increase 8-13-18-14-17-20 stitches evenly on row – read INCREASE TIP = 102-111-120-120-129-138 stitches. Knit 1 row from the wrong side.
For a better fit, you can now work a small ELEVATION at the back of the neck – see description above. When the elevation has been completed, change to circular needle size 5 mm / US 8. The next row is worked as follows from the right side: 5 band stitches in garter stitch, * A.1 (= 2 stitches), A.2 (= 7 stitches) *, work from *-* until there are 7 stitches left on the row (= 10-11-12-12-13-14 repeats of 9 stitches), work A.1 (= 2 stitches) and finish with 5 band stitches in garter stitch – remember BUTTONHOLE on the right band – see description above. Continue the pattern in this way and increase as shown in the diagram. When A.1/A.2 has been completed 1 time in height, there are 252-276-300-324-350-376 stitches on the row. Work 1-3-7-1-5-1 rows stockinette stitch with 5 band stitches in garter stitch in each side and, at the same time, increase 1-5-9-1-3-1 stitches evenly on the first row = 253-281-309-325-353-377 stitches. The piece now measures approx. 20-21-23-25-27-29 cm / 8''-8¼''-9''-9¾''-10 5/8''-11 3/8'' from the cast-on edge (measured mid front). (If the measurements do not match, you can continue working stockinette stitch with 5 band stitches in garter stitch in each side towards mid front until the piece is the right length).
The next row is worked as follows from the right side: Work the first 41-44-48-51-56-61 stitches in garter stitch and stockinette stitch as before (= left front piece), place the next 50-58-64-66-70-72 stitches on 1 thread (= left sleeve), cast on 7-7-7-9-9-9 new stitches on the needle (= in the side under the sleeve), work the next 71-77-85-91-101-111 stitches in stockinette stitch as before (= back piece), place the next 50-58-64-66-70-72 stitches on 1 thread (= right sleeve), cast on 7-7-7-9-9-9 new stitches on the needle (= in the side under the sleeve) and work the remaining 41-44-48-51-56-61 stitches in stockinette stitch and garter stitch as before (= right front piece). The body and sleeves are now finished separately. THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE!

BODY:
= 167-179-195-211-231-251 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread in the 45th-48th-52nd-56th-61st-66th stitch in from each side (= 77-83-91-99-109-119 stitches between the stitches with the marker threads on the back piece). Work stockinette stitch with 5 band stitches in garter stitch in each side towards mid front. AT THE SAME TIME on the next row from the right side, work A.3 over the middle 5 stitches in each side (i.e. over the stitches with the marker thread + 2 stitches on either side of these). Continue with stockinette stitch, A.3 in the sides and 5 band stitches in garter stitch in each side towards mid front and increase on the 7th and 15th row in diagram A.3 (= every 8th row in the diagram) until the piece measures 31-32-32-32-32-32 cm / 12 1/4"-12½"-12½"-12½"-12½"-12½" from where the piece was divided. You should now have increased approx. 8 times in each side = approx. 199-211-227-243-263-283 stitches on the row. Change to circular needle size 4.5 mm / US 7. The next row is worked as follows from the right side: 5 band stitches in garter stitch, work A.4A until there are 6 stitches left on the row, work A.4B (= 1 stitch) and finish with 5 band stitches in garter stitch. When A.4 has been completed in height, bind off with knit from the right side. To prevent a tight bind-off edge, you can use a larger needle or make 1 yarn over which is bind off after approx. every 4th stitch. The jacket measures approx. 58-60-62-64-66-68 cm / 22¾''-23 5/8''-24 3/8''-25¼''-26''-26¾'' from the shoulder down.

SLEEVE:
Place the 50-58-64-66-70-72 stitches from the thread on double pointed needles size 5 mm / US 8 and, in addition, knit up 1 stitch in each of the 7-7-7-9-9-9 stitches cast on under the sleeve (= 57-65-71-75-79-81 stitches). Insert a marker thread in the middle stitch under the sleeve. The start of the round is after the 7-7-7-9-9-9 new stitches. Work stockinette stitch in the round, but over the middle 5 stitches under the sleeve (= the stitch with the marker thread + 2 stitches on each side of this stitch) work A.5. When the piece measures 3 cm / 1'' in all sizes, decrease 2 stitches mid under the sleeve – read DECREASE TIP. Decrease in this way every 8th-5th-4th-3rd-3rd-2nd round a total of 6-9-11-11-11-10 times = 45-47-49-53-57-61 stitches. When the piece measures 22-22-21-19-17-15 cm / 8 3/4"-8 3/4"-8 1/4"-7½"-6 3/4"-6" from the transition between yoke and sleeve, insert 3 marker threads in the piece (without working the stitches) as follows: Insert the 1st marker thread at the beginning of the round, insert the 2nd marker thread after 15-16-17-18-19-21 stitches, insert the 3rd marker thread after 15-16-16-18-19-20 stitches = 15-15-16-17-19-20 stitches left on the round after the 3rd marker thread. On the next round, increase 1 stitch after each marker thread by making 1 yarn over (= 3 stitches increased – the yarn overs are knitted twisted on the next round to prevent holes).
Increase in this way every 4th round a total of 6 times = 63-65-67-71-75-79 stitches on the needle. Continue working stockinette stitch and A.5 mid under the sleeve until the piece measures 31-31-30-28-26-24 cm / 12 1/4"-12 1/4"-11 3/4"-11"-10 1/4"-9½"from the transition between yoke and sleeve. Change to double pointed needles size 4.5 mm / US 7. Work A.4A in the round and, at the same time, decrease 1 stitch on the first round = 62-64-66-70-74-78 stitches. When A.4A has been completed, bind off with knit. To avoid a tight bind-off edge, you can use a bigger needle or make 1 yarn over which is bind off after approx. every 4th stitch. The sleeve measures approx. 35-35-34-32-30-28 cm / 13 3/4"-13 3/4"-13½"-12½"-11 3/4"-11" from the transition between yoke and sleeve. Work the other sleeve in the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the buttons onto the left band.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

= knit from the right side, purl from the wrong side
= purl from the right side, knit from the wrong side
= between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over
= knit 2 together
= slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch
= slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 2 together, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted together stitches
= last row in the different sizes in diagram A.1
= knitting direction




Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 179-7) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (11)

Lisa 29.10.2019 - 12:32:

Pattern 179-8. I have just finished knitting A1 & A2 in the yolk size M. The pattern states that I should have 264 stitched but I only have 253. If I finish on row 39 the stitches of A1 & A2 total stitches knitted is 23 then 11 times also equals 253. Am I reading the pattern incorrectly and missed something? From here I believe I knit next 3 rows in stockinette stitch while increasing on 1st row by 6 stitches which will bring me to 259 not 270

DROPS Design 04.11.2019 kl. 13:19:

Dear Lisa, you should increase a total of 7 stitches in each A.2, so that when A.1 and A.2 have been worked you should have 276 stitches in size M: 5 front band stitches, *A.1 = 2 sts, A.2 = 22 sts*, repeat from *-* a total of 11 times, A.1 (= 2 sts), 5 front band sts = 5+ 24x11 (=264 sts) + 2+5= 276 sts. Happy knitting!

Stephanie Greenside 25.10.2019 - 18:13:

Drops Pattern 179-7 Nineveh For a lrg ,XL pattern states 300gm (or 1146 yds of Baby Merino & working together with 150gm (1380 yds of Kid-silk. ) So 2 part questions, if working the 2 different yarns,wouldn't I be short approx. 234 yds of Baby Merino. And second question - how many yards of worsted (18stsx24rows) 180yds/per 100 gms. of MM starlette, or it would be lovely in a class 3 (22stsx28rows ) Of DK ,as I think the pattern would be lost in the worsted .

DROPS Design 04.11.2019 kl. 11:23:

Dear Mrs Greenside, you need 300 g BabyMerino = 6 balls x 191yds = 1146 yds + 125 g Kid-Silk = 5 balls x 230 yds = 1150 yds (kid-silk = 25 g/ball). You should then have enough both yarn if your tension is right. If you want to work with only 1 strand, you can use 1 strand yarn group C (= 2 strands yarn group A) - read more about this here. Happy knitting!

Elisabet 17.06.2019 - 21:56:

Jag håller på med fram- och bakstyckena nu , har alltså gjort oket klart och satt maskorna för ärmarna på tråd. Men när jag sen stickat ärmarna måste det ju bli ett hål under, som ska monteras ihop med bålen? Eller hur kan jag göra så det blir helt?

DROPS Design 18.06.2019 kl. 07:49:

Hei Elisabeth. Når du setter maskene fra tråden tilbake på pinnen for å strikke ermer, skal du samtisdig plukke opp 1 maske i hver av de 7-7-7-9-9-9 maskene du la opp under ermet på bolen. På den måten blir det ingen hull under ermene. God fornøyelse

Elisabet 27.05.2019 - 19:01:

Jag undrar över hur det kan vara möjligt att mönstret stämmer. 17 maskor på bredden = 10 cm enligt deklarationen i mönstret. Men när hålmönstret och ökningarna (A1 och A2) är stickade ska det vara 324 maskor på bredden i stil XL. Nästan 2 meter alltså runt axlarna?

DROPS Design 28.05.2019 kl. 07:29:

Hei Elisabeth. Det stemmer, men når du er kommet dit at du har 324 masker, har du alle maskene fra både ermer og bolen på pinnen. Bærestykket er ferdig, og når du så deler inn arbeidet rett etterpå, vil du ha 211 masker til bolen, dvs at brystmålet = ca 118 cm (5-6 cm trekkes fra pga stolpene). God fornøyelse

Lena 08.12.2017 - 20:23:

Bonjour J ai commencé le gilet J ai un petit souci de compréhension A-1 (2 m) A-2 (7 m) 9 mailles 2 m end - 1jeté - 1m end - 1jeté - 2 m ens - 1m and - 2 m ens - 1jeté -1m end - 1jeté Je compte 11 mailles Pouvez vous me dire ou je me trompe ???

DROPS Design 11.12.2017 kl. 08:45:

Bonjour Lena, on tricote le 1er rang de A.2 sur 7 m et on augmente en même temps 2 m, on aura 9 m dans A.2 après le 1er rang, soit 11 m pour A.1 et A.2. Bon tricot!

Julie 07.07.2017 - 06:25:

Hi, The new patterns are beautiful. This one is so dainty! I'm wondering if it is my iPad,but some of the symbols in the key for the diagram aren't showing up e.g., should there be a / in the square for " knit two together"? I only have a blank square. On checking the other new patterns, some random symbols are also missing. Thanks!

Birgitte Høft Larsen 06.07.2017 - 13:52:

Jeg vil rigtig gerne igang med denne model men det fremgår ikke på noget sted, i nogen af de tre opskrifter der kommer frem på en gang, hvor meget garn jeg skal bruge. Birgitte

DROPS Design 07.07.2017 kl. 06:51:

Hei Birgitte. Her har det skjedd noe feil ved opplastningen på den danske siden, dette er nå ordnet og du finner informasjon om garnmengden til høyre for bildet (under bildet ved bruk av mobil). Takk for at du gjorde oss oppmerksom på dette. God fornøyelse med ditt sommerprosjekt :)

OLIVON 01.07.2017 - 16:38:

La petite veste à porter en toute occasion. Forme évasée qui s'adapte au plus grand nombre et ce point ajouré, si raffiné et féminin.

Artmonique 30.06.2017 - 17:17:

C'est un rêve évasé. Une merveille

Sommerdrøm 18.06.2017 - 23:36:

Nydelig sommerjakke

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