DROPS / 176 / 1

Candice by DROPS Design

Knitted dress with lace pattern and ¾ sleeves in DROPS Paris. Size: S - XXXL

Tags: dresses, lace,
DROPS design: Pattern no w-638
Yarn group C - or A + A
----------------------------------------------------------
Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS PARIS from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
700-750-800-900-1000-1100 g color 16, white

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 + 80 cm / 16" + 32") SIZE 5 mm/US 8 – or size needed to get 17 stitches and 22 rows in stockinette stitch = width 10 cm / 4'' and 10 cm / 4'' vertically.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 or 80 cm / 24'' or 32'') SIZE 4 mm/US 6 - for edges in garter stitch.

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 5 ft 7 in and uses size S or M. If you are making a sweater, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

100% Cotton
from 1.80 $ /50g
DROPS Paris uni colour DROPS Paris uni colour 2.20 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Paris recycled denim DROPS Paris recycled denim 1.80 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 25.20$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
GARTER STITCH (worked in the round):
1 ridge = 2 rounds. Knit 1 round and purl 1 round.

GARTER STITCH (back and forth):
1 ridge = knit 2 rows.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.6. Diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from the right side. Choose diagram for your size.

DECREASE TIP-1 (applies to sides of dress):
Decrease as follows after marker thread: Slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked (= 1 stitch decreased).
Decrease as follows before marker thread: Begin 2 stitches before marker thread, knit 2 together (= 1 stitch decreased).

DECREASE TIP-2 (applies to armholes):
Decrease inside 3 edge stitches in garter stitch. All decreases are done from the right side.
Decrease after 3 edge stitches as follows: Slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over (= 1 stitch decreased).
Decrease before 3 edge stitches as follows: Begin 2 stitches before the 3 edge stitches and knit 2 together (= 1 stitch decreased).

DECREASE TIP-3:
To calculate how to decrease evenly, use the total number of stitches on row (e.g. 54 stitches) and divide stitches by number of decreases to be done (e.g. 12) = 4.5. In this example work alternately every 3rd and 4th stitch and every 4th and 5th stitch together.

INCREASE TIP (applies to sides on dress and mid under sleeves):
Increase on each side of 1st and 4th marker thread on dress and on each side of marker thread mid under sleeve as follows: Work until 2 stitches remain before marker thread, make 1 yarn over, knit 4 (marker thread is in the middle of these 4 stitches), make 1 yarn over (= 2 stitches increased). On next round knit yarn over twisted to avoid holes.
----------------------------------------------------------

DRESS:
Worked in the round on circular needle bottom up to armholes, then work front and back piece separately back and forth.
Cast on somewhat loosely 230-230-276-276-322-322 stitches on circular needle size 5 mm / US 8 with Paris. Work 2 ridges in GARTER STITCH - see explanation above. Then work A.1 in the round (= 10-10-12-12-14-14 repetitions of 23 stitches). When A.1 has been worked, there are 210-210-252-252-294-294 stitches on needle. Work A.2 in the round (= 10-10-12-12-14-14 repetitions of 21 stitches). NOTE: On 7th round in A.2 displace round 1 stitch forward. When A.2 has been worked, there are 180-180-216-216-252-252 stitches on needle. Insert 6 marker threads in the piece as follows: Insert 1st marker thread at beginning of round (= side), 2nd marker thread after the next 10 stitches, 3rd marker thread after the next 70-70-88-88-106-106 stitches, 4th marker thread after the next 10 stitches (= in the side), 5th marker thread after the next 10 stitches, 6th marker thread after the next 70-70-88-88-106-106 stitches = 10 stitches remain on round after last marker thread. Move marker threads upwards when working.
READ ALL OF THE FOLLOWING SECTION BEFORE CONTINUING:
Work A.3 in the round (= 10-10-12-12-14-14 repetitions of 18 stitches). When A.3 has been worked vertically, work next round as follows: Begin 2 stitches before 1st marker thread, work A.4 over the next 3 stitches (1st marker thread is now in the middle of A.4 and A.4 matches over holes in A.3), work in stockinette stitch until 2 stitches remain before 4th marker thread, work A.4 over the next 3 stitches and work stockinette stitch the rest of round. Continue pattern like this with stockinette stitch and A.4 in each side.
AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 14-14-14-16-16-15 cm / 5½"-5½"-5½"-6 1/4"-6 1/4"-6", decrease after 2nd and 5th marker thread and before 3rd and 6th marker thread – READ DECREASE TIP-1 (= 4 stitches decreased). Decrease like this every 2½-3½-2½-3½-2½-4½ cm / 7/8"-1 1/4"-7/8"-1 1/4"-7/8"-1 3/4" 13-10-15-11-15-10 times in total = 128-140-156-172-192-212 stitches on needle. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE
When piece measures 48-49-51-53-55-57 cm / 19"-19 1/4"-20"-21"-21½"-22½" (decreases are now done), switch to circular needle size 4 mm / US 6. Work A.5 in the round. When A.5 has been worked, switch back to circular needle size 5 mm / US 8. Insert 1 marker on round – NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE.
Work next round as follows: 10-13-17-17-22-27 stitches in stockinette stitch, A.6A (= 22-22-22-26-26-26 stitches), A.6B (= 22-22-22-26-26-26 stitches), 20-26-34-34-44-54 stitches stockinette stitch (marker thread in the side is in the middle of these stitches), A.6A (= 22-22-22-26-26-26 stitches), A.6B (= 22-22-22-26-26-26 stitches) and 10-13-17-17-22-27 stitches stockinette stitch. Continue pattern like this.
When piece measures 3 cm / 1'' from marker, increase 1 stitch on each side of 1st and 4th marker thread - READ INCREASE TIP-1 (= 4 stitches increased). Repeat increase when piece measures 6 cm / 2 3/8'' from marker = 136-148-164-180-200-220 stitches. When piece measures 60-62-64-66-68-70 cm / 23 5/8''-24 3/8''-25¼''-26''-26¾''-27½'', work 2 ridges over the middle 12-12-14-18-22-26 stitches in each side (6-6-7-9-11-13 stitches on each side of 1st and 4th marker thread – work the other stitches as before).
On first round after ridges, bind off the middle 6-6-8-12-16-20 stitches in each side for armholes (3-3-4-6-8-10 stitches on each side of 1st and 4th marker thread). Finish front and back piece separately.

BACK PIECE:
= 62-68-74-78-84-90 stitches. Continue with stockinette stitch and A.6 as before and work the outermost 3 stitches in each side in garter stitch. AT THE SAME TIME on first row from right side decrease for armhole in each side - READ DECREASE TIP-2 (= 2 stitches decreased). Decrease like this on every other row (i.e. every row from right side) 2-3-5-7-8-11 times in total in each side = 58-62-64-64-68-68 stitches. Continue pattern with 3 edge stitches in garter stitch in each side until piece measures 77-80-83-86-89-92 cm / 30 3/8''-31½''-32¾''-33 7/8''-35''-36¼''. Now bind off the middle 26-26-26-32-32-32 stitches for neck and finish each shoulder separately. Continue as before and bind off 1 stitch on next row from the neck = 15-17-18-15-17-17 stitches remain on shoulder. Work until 1 row remains until piece measures 80-83-86-89-92-95 cm / 31½''-32¾''-33 7/8''-35''-36¼''-37 3/8'', knit 1 row from wrong side and bind off by knitting from right side. Work the other shoulder the same way.

FRONT PIECE:
= 62-68-74-78-84-90 stitches. Work the same way as on back piece and decrease for armholes in each side as on back piece. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 66-69-71-74-76-79 cm / 26"-27"-28"-29"-30"-31", adjust so that next row is worked from right side, divide the piece in the middle for neck vent and finish each front piece separately.

LEFT FRONT PIECE (when garment is worn):
Continue back and forth over half the stitches with 3 edge stitches in garter stitch towards armhole, stockinette stitch and A.6A towards mid front. When piece measures 72-75-78-81-84-87 cm / 28½"-29½"-30 3/4"-32"-33"-34 1/4" (adjust so that next row is worked from wrong side), slip the first 9-9-9-12-12-12 stitches from mid front on 1 stitch holder for neck (to avoid cutting the working yarn, work the stitches before slipping them on stitch holder). Continue to bind off for neck at beginning of every row from mid front as follows: 2 stitches 1 time and 1 stitch 3 times = 15-17-18-15-17-17 stitches remain for shoulder. Work until 1 row remains until piece measures 80-83-86-89-92-95 cm / 31½''-32¾''-33 7/8''-35''-36¼''-37 3/8'', knit 1 row from wrong side and bind off by knitting from right side.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
Work the same way as on left front piece but with decreases in opposite side (when slipping stitches on stitch holder for neck this is done from right side, not wrong side).

SLEEVE:
Work sleeves in the round on double pointed needles/a short circular needle.
Cast on 54-58-62-64-68-72 stitches on double pointed needles size 4 mm / US 6. Work 2 ridges. Switch to double pointed needles size 5 mm / US 8 and work in stockinette stitch. When piece measures 8 cm / 3 1/8'', knit 1 round while at the same time decreasing 12-14-16-16-18-20 stitches evenly - READ DECREASE TIP-3 = 42-44-46-48-50-52 stitches. Switch to double pointed needles size 4 mm / US 6 and A.5. After A.5 switch back to double pointed needles size 5 mm / US 8. Insert 1 marker at beginning of round (= mid under sleeve). Work in stockinette stitch. When piece measures 12 cm / 4¾'' in all sizes, increase 2 stitches mid under sleeve - READ INCREASE TIP. Increase like this every 4-3-3-2½-2-1½ cm / 1½"-1"-1"-7/8"-3/4"-½" 7-9-9-10-12-14 times in total = 56-62-64-68-74-80 stitches. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 21 cm / 8 1/4'', switch back to double pointed needles size 4 mm / US 6 again. Work A.5, switch back to double pointed needles size 5 mm / US 8 and work stockinette stitch again. When piece measures 38-38-37-36-35-34 cm / 15"-15"-14½"-14 1/4"-13 3/4"-13½", bind off the middle 6 stitches under sleeve (3 stitches on each side of marker) and work sleeve cap back and forth on circular needle until finished measurements. Continue with stockinette stitch and bind off at beginning of every row in each side as follows: 2 stitches 2 times and 1 stitch 3-3-3-5-6-8 times. Then bind off 2 stitches at beginning of every row in each side until piece measures 45-45-45-46-46-47 cm / 17 3/4"-17 3/4"-17 3/4"-18"-18"-18½". Bind off 3 stitches at beginning of the next 2 rows before loosely binding off all stitches. Sleeve measures approx. 46-46-46-47-47-48 cm / 18"-18"-18"-18½"-18½"-19". Make another sleeve the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the shoulder seams. Sew sleeves - edge in garter stitch along armhole should be on the outside of sleeve i.e. place the garter stitch edge a bit over the edge on the sleeve cap.

NECK EDGE:
Begin mid front and pick up from right side approx. 74 to 94 stitches around the neck (including stitches on stitch holders at the front) on circular needle size 4 mm / US 6. Knit 1 row from wrong side, knit 1 row from right side and knit 1 row from wrong side. Bind off knitting from right side.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

= knit from the right side, purl from the wrong side
= purl from the right side, knit from the wrong side
= between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over
= knit 2 together
= slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked
= slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 2 stitches together, pass slipped stitch over stitches worked together
= displace round 1 stitch forwards, i.e. knit first stitch on round, move 1st marker thread before next stitch, round begins here now



Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 176-1) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

to top

2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

to top

3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

to top

4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

to top

5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

to top

6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

to top

7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

to top

8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

to top

9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

to top

10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

to top

11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

to top

12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

to top

13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

to top

14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

to top

15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

to top

16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

to top

17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

to top

18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

to top

19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

to top

20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

to top

21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

to top

22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

to top

23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

to top

Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (22)

Marianela 06.09.2019 - 23:45:

¿como es posible que disminuyan puntos al inicio del vestido? monté 276 y despues dice que debo tener 252 al hacer el diagrama A1

DROPS Design 10.09.2019 kl. 22:05:

Hola Marianela. Las disminuciones están incluidas en el diagrama A.1. Mira atentamente la fila 7 de A.1

Marianela 05.09.2019 - 21:25:

Como disminuyen los puntos de 276 a 252 al tejer el grafico A1??

DROPS Design 17.10.2019 kl. 20:10:

Ver la respuesta arriba

Katy Board 24.10.2018 - 17:37:

Do i just knit A4 once or repeat until decreases are done?

DROPS Design 25.10.2018 kl. 08:12:

Dear Mrs Board, work A.4 on each side ie repeat A.4 in height until piece measures 48-49-51-53-55-57 cm, Happy knitting!

Tina 08.03.2018 - 13:50:

Are the finished sizes on the chart in cm or inches?

DROPS Design 08.03.2018 kl. 15:26:

Dear Tina, the finished measurements in size are taken flat from side to side and are in cm - convert into inches here. Happy knitting!

Stephanie 31.01.2017 - 18:13:

Bonjour, je souhaite réaliser ce modèle pour ma fille mais elle fait une taille XS, aussi je me demande quel coton du groupe B ou A dois je utiliser pour obtenir cette taille? merci pour votre réponse.

DROPS Design 01.02.2017 kl. 08:50:

Bonjour Stéphanie, cette robe est prévue pour un fil du groupe C, vérifiez les mesures d'après le schéma pour ajuster à la taille souhaitée, ou inspirez-vous d'un modèle similaire dans la taille et le fil souhaités pour ajuster en fonction de votre échantillon. Bon tricot!

Enrica Colombo 19.01.2017 - 20:42:

Bellissimo, in perfetto stile anni 70

DOMINIK 19.01.2017 - 05:42:

Snow white looks amazing and comfortable

Monica 17.01.2017 - 18:08:

Bellissimo!

Beate Eckardt 17.01.2017 - 14:12:

Unbedingt

Hanneke Singels 17.01.2017 - 13:37:

Prachtig jurkje en iets korter een truitje

Post a comment to pattern DROPS 176-1

We would love to hear what you have to say about this pattern!

If you want to leave a question, please make sure you select the correct category in the form below, to speed up the answering process. Required fields are marked *.