Lizzy by DROPS Design

Tunic with fan pattern, flounce and A-shape, crochet top down in DROPS Safran. Size S-XXXL.

DROPS 176-2
DROPS design: Pattern e-264
Yarn group A
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
NOTE! Choose your normal size. The chest measurement is wide,

but the garment drapes nicely.
Materials:
DROPS SAFRAN from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
400-450-550-600-650-700 g color 17, white

DROPS HOOK size 3.5 mm/E/4 - or size needed to get 22 treble crochet x 8 rows = 10 cm / 4'' in width and 10 cm / 4'' vertically. 1 repetition A.2b should measure approx. 4.5 cm / 1 3/4'' in width.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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100% Cotton
from 2.05 $ /50g
DROPS Safran uni colour DROPS Safran uni colour 2.05 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 16.40$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
CROCHET INFO:
At beginning of every round with double crochet replace first double crochet with 3 chain stitches. Finish round with 1 slip stitch in 3rd chain stitch at beginning of round.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.5. (Diagrams A.1a, A.2a, A.3a, A.4a and A.5a show how round begins and ends).

INCREASE TIP 1 (evenly spaced):
To calculate how to increase evenly, use the total number of stitches on round (e.g. 180 stitches) and divide stitches by number of increases to be done (e.g. 74) = 2.4. I.e. in this example increase alternately in approx. every 2nd and 3rd stitch.

INCREASE TIP 2:
Increase 1 double crochet by working 2 double crochet in same stitch.

INCREASE TIP 3:
Increase an extra chain space by working (1 double crochet and 5 chain stitches) around a chain space.
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TUNIC:
Worked in the round, top down. Round begins mid back. NOTE!
Choose your normal size. The chest measurement is wide, but the
garment drapes nicely.

Begin on hook size 3.5 mm/E/4 and Safran, work 180-192-202-211-221-233 chain stitches and form a ring with 1 slip stitch in 1st chain stitch. Work 3 chain stitches (= 1 double crochet) - READ CROCHET INFO, * skip 1 chain stitch, work 1 double crochet in each of the next 5 chain stitches *, repeat from *-* 28-30-32-33-35-37 more times, skip 1 chain stitch, work 1 double crochet in each of the remaining 4-4-2-5-3-3 chain stitches = 150-160-168-176-184-194 double crochet.

Work from 2nd round in diagrams as follows:
Work A.1a (shows how round begins and ends), work A.1b the entire round. On 3rd round work 1 double crochet in every double crochet and 1 double crochet around every chain stitch and increase in addition 74-96-104-128-136-142 double crochet evenly – READ INCREASE TIP 1 (evenly spaced) and INCREASE TIP 2 = 224-256-272-304-320-336 double crochet.

Work from 2nd round in diagrams as follows: Work A.2a (shows how round begins and ends), work A.2b (= 28-32-34-38-40-42 repetitions). When 5th round has been worked vertically, repeat this round 3-3-4-5-6-6 more times (= 6-6-7-8-9-9 rounds in total with fans). Then work 6th round and increase 4-0-6-2-8-14 chain spaces evenly - READ INCREASE TIP 3 = 144-160-176-192-208-224 chain spaces. REMEMBER THE CROCHET GAUGE! Piece measures approx. 14-14-15-16-17-17 cm / 5½"-5½"-6"-6 1/4"-6 3/4"-6 3/4" from first chain stitch row worked.

Work from 2nd round in diagrams as follows: Work A.3a (shows how round begins and ends), work A.3b (= 72-80-88-96-104-112 repetitions). When 4th round has been worked vertically, the yoke is done. Piece measures approx. 18-18-19-20-21-21 cm / 7"-7"-7½"-8"-8 1/4"-8 1/4" from neck edge and down (and approx. 28-29-30-32-33-34 cm / 11"-11½"-11 3/4"-12½"-13"-13½" from shoulder). Insert a marker thread in piece, NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE.
Work 4th round in A.3b one more time as follows: Work over the first 9-10-11-12-13-14 repetitions (= half back piece), skip 18-20-22-24-26-28 repetitions (= sleeve), work over the next 18-20-22-24-26-28 repetitions (= front piece), skip 18-20-22-24-26-28 repetitions (= sleeve), work over the remaining 9-10-11-12-13-14 repetitions (= half back piece) = 36-40-44-48-52-56 repetitions for body. Repeat 4th round in A.3a and A.3b 2 more times (= 6 round in total with fans). Then work 5th round and increase 0-2-4-0-2-4 chain spaces evenly = 144-162-180-192-210-228 chain spaces. Piece measures approx. 8 cm / 3 1/8''.

Work from 2nd round in diagrams as follows: Work A.4a (shows how round begins and ends), work A.4b (= 48-54-60-64-70-76 repetitions). On next round continue from 3rd round in A.3a and A.3b. When 4th round has been worked vertically, repeat this round 3 more times (= 6 rounds in total with fans). Then work as explained below and increase in addition 3-0-6-1-1-4 chain spaces evenly: * Work last round in A.3b 1 time in width, work last round in A.5b 1 time in width *, repeat from *-* = 171-189-216-225-246-270 chain spaces. Piece measures approx. 18 cm / 7''.

Work from 2nd round in diagrams as follows: Work A.4a (shows how round begins and ends), work A.4b (= 57-63-72-75-82-90 repetitions). On next round continue from 3rd round in A.3a and A.3b. When 4th round has been worked vertically, repeat this round 3 more times (= 6 rounds in total with fans). Work next round in the different sizes as follows:


Size S, M, L and XL:
Work as explained below and increase in addition 20-12-0-2 chain spaces evenly: Work A.3a, * work last round in A.3b 1 time in width, work last round in A.5b 2 times in width *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 210-222-240-252 chain spaces.

Size XXL and XXXL:
Work A.5a, then work last round in A.5b the entire round and increase in addition 18-6 chain spaces evenly = 264-276 chain spaces.

Piece measures approx. 28 cm / 11''. Then work in all sizes from last round in diagrams as follows: Work A.4a (shows how round begins and ends), work A.4b (= 70-74-80-84-88-92 repetitions). On next round continue from 3rd round in A.3a and A.3b. When 4th round has been worked vertically, repeat this round vertically until piece measures approx. 33-34-35-35-36-37 cm / 13"-13½"-13 3/4"-13 3/4"-14 1/4"-14½". Work the last round in diagram. Tunic measures approx. 63-65-67-69-71-73 cm / 24¾''-25½''-26 3/8''-27 1/8''-28''-28¾'' from shoulder. Fasten off.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 09.03.2017
The garments measurement at the chest has been added to the schematic : Choose your normal size. The chest measurement is wide, but the garment drapes nicely.
Updated online: 25.08.2017
Diagrams A.2a, A.3a, A.3b and A.5a have been updated.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = 1 chain stitch
symbols = 5 chain stitches
symbols = 1 single crochet in stitch
symbols = 1 double crochet in stitch
symbols = 1 double crochet around chain space
symbols = 1 treble crochet around chain space
symbols = 1 treble crochet in stitch
symbols = Replace first double crochet on round with 3 chain stitches. Finish round with 1 slip stitch in 3rd chain stitch at beginning of round.
symbols = Replace first treble crochet on round with 4 chain stitches. Finish round with 1 slip stitch in 4th chain stitch at beginning of round.
symbols = Replace first single crochet on round with 1 chain stitch. Finish round with 1 slip stitch in 1st chain stitch at beginning of round.
symbols = Begin round by working slip stitches until first chain space, then replace first treble crochet with 4 chain stitches. Finish round with 1 slip stitch in 4th chain stitch at beginning of round.
symbols = on this round increase chain spaces evenly - see explanation in pattern
symbols = Choose your normal size. The chest measurement is wide, but
the garment drapes nicely.
diagram
diagram
diagram

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 176-2) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

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Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (133)

country flag Michaela wrote:

Hallo liebes Team, Sie schreiben in der Anleitung: " * die letzte Runde von A.3b 1 x in der Breite, die letzte Runde von A.5b 1 x in der Breite *, von *-* über die ganze Runde wiederholen" Bedeutet dass, das ich 1x den Mustersatz von A.3b und dann 1x den Mustersatz von A5b häkel und sich die Mustersätze abwechseln? Lg

28.06.2022 - 19:09

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Michaela, ja genau, Sie häkeln jetzt abwechslungsweise die letzte Runde in A.3b und in A.5b (es wird in A.3b zugenommen aber nicht in A.5b). Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

29.06.2022 kl. 09:21

country flag Erika wrote:

Kannst du mir die Anleitung auf deutsch übersetzen

13.05.2022 - 08:48

country flag Velislava Popova wrote:

Hi. I have a problem with increase of size M. I finished 2nd row and I have 160 sts. I have to increase 96 times and finish the round with 256 sts. But it doesn't work - 160:96 = 1,66 - for me it means that I increase in every second stitch ( *1 treble crochet, inc treble crochet*), but in the end of round I have 240 sts, not 256sts. Where am I wrong?

13.03.2022 - 15:41

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Popova, you shouldn't increasee in every 2nd stitch, but alternately in every 2nd stitch and in every 3rd st - read more here making sure you get the correct number of increases/stitches at the end of the round. Happy crocheting!

14.03.2022 kl. 11:18

country flag Steffi wrote:

Entschuldigung, aber ich verstehe nicht was mit sie mit " wird über 3 Luftmaschenbögen" gehäkelt meinen. Ich habe mich genau an das Diagramm gehalten, und es funktioniert einfach nicht, die Fächer bleiben nicht übereinander. Da ich an sich ein sehr kreatives Köpfchen bin, werde ich nun "freischnautze" weitermachen. Denn alles auftrennen möchte ich nun wirklich nicht. Leider ist das sehr frustrierend, da andere Anleitungen von Ihnen viel verständlicher waren. LG

10.02.2022 - 17:36

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Steffi, schauen Sie A.4, die 1. Runde in A.4 wird über je 3 Luftmaschenbogen gehäkelt: *1 Doppelstäbchen um den Luftmaschenbogen, 2 Doppelstäbchen+2 Luftmaschen + 2 Doppelstäbchen um den nächsten Luftmaschenbogen, 2 Luftmaschen, 1 Luftmaschenbogen überpsringen*, und von *-* wird es wiederholt. Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

11.02.2022 kl. 11:24

country flag Steffi wrote:

Hallo!\r\nIch habe die Ärmel abgeteilt, 6 Fächer übereinander, dann 5. runde ohne zunahme da Größe S. =144 Lmbg. Nun folgt A.4a und A.4b . 48 Rap. Die Fächere liegen dann aber nicht mehr übereinander, ist das richtig? . später soll ich 3 LmBg zunehmen und dann 171 lmbg haben, das funktioniert aber so nicht. wo liegt der fehler? auch mit dem ausdruck \" in der breite häkeln \" kann ich beileibe nichts anfangen!! Sehr verwirrend diese anleitung!

10.02.2022 - 15:44

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Steffi, nach der Abteilung der Ärmel haben Sie noch 2 Mal die 4. Runde in A.3 gehäkelt - dann 5. Runde in A.3 ohne Zunahmen in Größe S - so, wenn Sie dann A.4 häkeln, häkeln Sie genau über die Fächer von den 4. Runde in A.3. "in der Breite" bedeutet hier insgesamt in der Runde (= A.4 wird über 3 Luftmaschenbogen gehäkelt x 48 Rapporte = 144 Luftmaschenbogen). Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

10.02.2022 kl. 16:20

country flag Velislava wrote:

Hi. I have a problem with an understanding of consistency. In the beginning you wrote \"Work from 2nd round in diagrams as follows:...\" and follow A.1a and A.1b. After that \"Work from 2nd round in diagrams as follows: Work A.2a....\" What is meant? Isn\'t it the 4th round? 1st round is only chain, 2nd round is A.1a and A.1b; 3rd round is increase and 4th round work A.2a and A.2b?

05.01.2022 - 13:17

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Velislava, this applies to diagrams, ie diagram A.1a and b show 3 rows but you will work from 2nd row, and same for other diagram, this measn you should work from the other diagrams from the row with a black star; previous row shows the stitches on the round to show how to crochet the first row of diagram over the previous round. Happy crocheting!

05.01.2022 kl. 16:55

country flag Maimiti 🇵🇫 wrote:

Bonjour je suis au niveau de A 4a et A 4b comment fait on pour les 48 motifs avec les 144 arceaux? Merci.

17.11.2021 - 05:52

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Naimiti, A.4 se crochète sur 4 arceaux (cf 1er rang), autrement dit 144 arceaux divisé par 4 arceaux le motif = 48 motifs de A.4b. Bon crochet!

17.11.2021 kl. 07:55

country flag Maimiti 🇵🇫 wrote:

Je vous remercie pour votre retour 😁😊 merci belle journée 🤩

10.11.2021 - 18:32

country flag Maimiti 🇵🇫 wrote:

Je suis toujours au niveau des manches, comment de 9 motifs au départ ensuite sauter 18 motifs et crocheter 18 motifs, sauter 18 motifs et finir avec 9 motifs et avoir 36 motifs au dos et 36 motifs devant?

10.11.2021 - 02:35

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mamiti, au début de A.3b avant la division des manches, vous avez crocheté 72 fois A.3b, vous allez diviser ces 72 motifs de A.3b comme indiqué en crochetant le 4ème tour une 2ème fois: 9 x A.3b (= demi-dos), sautez 18x A.3b pour la manche, crochetez 18 fois A.3b (devant), sautez 18xA.3b pour la manche et terminez par les 9 derniers A.3b (demi-dos). Vous avez maintenant 18 motifs de A.3b pour le devant et autant pour le dos, soit 36 au total (chaque motif = 4 arceaux soit 36*4 =144 arceaux). Bon crochet!

10.11.2021 kl. 07:48

country flag Maimiti wrote:

Comment obtient on 144 arceaux après qu’on est fait les manches le dos et le devant puisque j obtiens 36 motifs en tout à moins que c’est 36 motifs dos et 36 motifs devant?

06.11.2021 - 19:02

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Maimiti, vous avez 36 motifs pour le dos et autant pour le devant soit 72 motifs au total et 2 arceaux par motif, autrement dit 72*2= 144 arceaux. Bon crochet!

08.11.2021 kl. 08:07

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