Chevron Delight by DROPS Design

Jumper worked top down with raglan and lace pattern in DROPS BabyAlpaca Silk. Sizes S - XXXL.

DROPS Design: Pattern no. bs-118
Yarn group A
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Sizes: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS BABYALPACA SILK from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
400-400-450-500-550-600 g color 1306, powder

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 + 80 cm / 16"+32") SIZE 3 mm/US 2.5 – or the size needed to get 24 stitches and 32 rows stockinette stitch on 10 cm / 4'' in width and 10 cm / 4'' in height.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 + 80 cm / 16"+32") SIZE 2.5 mm/ US 1.5 – for the ridge edges.

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Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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70% Alpaca, 30% Silk
from 4.10 $ /50g
DROPS BabyAlpaca Silk uni colour DROPS BabyAlpaca Silk uni colour 4.10 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
Order
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks Order
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 32.80$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked in the round):
1 ridge = 2 rounds. Knit 1 round and purl 1 round.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.3. The diagrams show all the rows in the pattern from the right side.

INCREASE TIP:
To work out how to increase evenly, count the total number of stitches on the needle (e.g. 124 stitches) and divide by the number of increases to be made (e.g. 12) = 10.3. In this example, increase after approx. every 10th stitch. Increase 1 stitch by making 1 yarn over, on the next round work the yarn overs twisted knit to prevent holes.

RAGLAN:
Increase to raglan on each side of the stitch with the marker thread mid front/mid back and in each of side of the sleeves (i.e. on each side of the 1st and 4th marker thread, before the 3rd and 6th marker thread and after the 2nd and 5th marker thread).
Increase 1 stitch by making 1 yarn over, on the next round the yarn overs are worked twisted knit to prevent holes. The increased stitches are worked into the pattern as you go. NOTE: The increases are different on the body and sleeves as explained in the text.

DECREASE TIP-1 (for the sides of the body and mid underarm):
Decrease 1 stitch on each side of each marker thread as follows: Work until there are 3 stitches left before the marker, knit 2 together, knit 2 (the marker sits in the middle of these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch (= 2 stitches decreased).

DECREASE TIP-2 (for the sides of the body):
Decrease 2 stitches on each side of each marker as follows: Work until there are 5 stitches left before the marker, * knit 2 together *, repeat from *-* in total 2 times (= 2 stitches decreased), knit 2 (the marker sits in the middle of these 2 stitches), * slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch *, repeat from *-* in total 2 times (= 4 stitches decreased).
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JUMPER:
The piece is worked with circular needle and from the top down. The sleeves are worked with a short circular needle/double pointed needles.

YOKE:
Cast on 124-124-132-132-148-148 stitches with circular needle size 2.5 mm / US 1.5 and BabyAlpaca Silk. Work 3 RIDGES – see description above, AT THE SAME TIME on the 4th round increase 12-12-20-20-24-24 stitches evenly along the round – READ INCREASE TIP = 136-136-152-152-172-172 stitches. Repeat the increase on the 6th round = 148-148-172-172-196-196 stitches on the needle.
Change to circular needle size 3 mm / US 2.5 and work the next round as follows from the left shoulder back: Work A.1 across the first 30-30-36-36-42-42 stitches (= 5-5-6-6-7-7 repeats of 6 stitches), insert the 1st marker thread in the next stitch and work the stitch A.2 (= mid back), work A.3 across the next 30-30-36-36-42-42 stitches (= 5-5-6-6-7-7 repeats of 6 stitches), insert the 2nd marker thread before the next stitch, work A.1 across the next 12 stitches (= 2 repeats of 6 stitches), work A.2 (= 1 stitch), insert the 3rd marker thread before the next stitch (= 13 stitches on the right sleeve between the 2nd and 3rd marker thread), work A.1 across the next 30-30-36-36-42-42 stitches, insert the 4th marker thread in the next stitch and work this stitch A.2 (= mid front), work A.3 across the next 30-30-36-36-42-42 stitches, insert the 5th marker thread before the next stitch, work A.2 (= 1 stitch), work A.3 across the next 12 stitches, insert the 6th marker thread before the next stitch (= 13 stitches on the left sleeve between the 5th and 6th marker thread).
There are now 6 marker threads in the piece.
Continue the pattern as follows (A.1-A.3 repeated to finished length). AT THE SAME TIME on the first round after the marker threads have been inserted begin the increases to RAGLAN – see description above. Increase as follows:
BODY:
Increase every round in total 6-12-10-22-18-30 times, then every 2nd round in total 28-28-30-28-34-32 times (= in total 34-40-40-50-52-62 times).
SLEEVE:
Increase every round in total 0-3-4-2-0-0 times, every 2nd round in total 29-32-33-37-40-41 times and then every 4th round in total 1-0-0-0-2-3 times (= in total 30-35-37-39-42-44 times).
REMEMBER THE GAUGE! When the increases to raglan are finished the piece measures approx. 20-22-23-25-28-30 cm / 8"-8 3/4"-9"-9 3/4"-11"-11 3/4" from the cast-on edge (measured mid front). There are 64-70-76-86-94-104 stitches on each side of the 1st and 4th marker thread (= 129-141-153-173-189-209 stitches on the front and back pieces including the stitches with marker threads) and 73-83-87-91-97-101 stitches on each sleeve = in total 404-448-480-528-572-620 stitches on the needle.
The next round is worked as follows: Twisted knit together the first 2 stitches (= 1 stitch decreased), work as before to the 1st marker thread, make 1 yarn over, work the stitch as before (= mid back), make 1 yarn over (= 2 stitches increased), work as before until there are 2 stitches left before the 2nd marker, knit 2 together (= 1 stitch decreased), place the next 73-83-87-91-97-101 stitches (i.e. the stitches between the 2nd and 3rd marker threads) on a thread for the sleeve, cast on 6-6-12-12-12-12 new stitches under the sleeve, insert 1 marker in the middle of the new stitches, twisted knit 2 stitches together (= 1 stitch decreased), work the pattern as before to the 4th marker thread, make 1 yarn over, work the stitch as before (= mid front), make 1 yarn over (= 2 stitches increased), work the pattern as before until there are 2 stitches left before the 5th marker thread, knit 2 together (= 1 stitch decreased), place the next 73-83-87-91-97-101 stitches (i.e. the stitches between the 5th and 6th marker threads) on 1 thread for the sleeve, cast on 6-6-12-12-12-12 new stitches under the sleeve and insert 1 marker in the middle of these new stitches = 270-294-330-370-402-442 stitches on the needle. Cut the strand. THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE!

BODY:
Displace the round so that it starts mid-under the sleeve in the right side of the piece when the garment is worn (i.e. move the next stitches across to the right needle without working them first). The markers follow as you work the piece. Continue the pattern as before – NOTE: The new stitches under the sleeve in each side are worked in to the pattern, adjust so that the pattern is symmetrical under the sleeve (i.e. on each side of the marker). AT THE SAME TIME every 2nd round increase 1 stitch on each side of the stitch with the 1st and 4th marker thread in the same way as before and decrease 1 stitch on each side of the marker under the sleeve in each side – READ DECREASE TIP-1 = 4 stitches increased and 4 stitches decreased. When you increase and decrease in this way the number of stitches remains the same.

When the piece measures 3 cm / 1'' from the separation under each sleeve – adjust so that the next round is an increase/decrease round and now decrease 2 stitches on each side of the marker under each sleeve (the increases front and back continue as before) – READ DECREASE TIP-2 = 4 stitches increased and 8 stitches decreased.
Decrease and increase like this every 4-4-4-3-3-3 cm / 1½"-1½"-1½"-1"-1"-1" in total 3-3-3-4-4-4 times = 258-282-318-354-386-426 stitches. Then work as before with 4 decreases and 4 increases every 2nd round.

Continue in this way until the piece measures approx. 46-50-51-55-58-63 cm / 18"-19 3/4"-20"-21½"-22 3/4"-24 3/4" measured along the middle stitch (i.e. by the 1st and 4th marker thread), but finish so that the next round is an increase/decrease round. The piece now measures approx. 56-60-61-65-69-74 cm / 22"-23½"-242-25½"-27"-29" measured from the shoulder and down at the longest part. Cut the strand.
Place the first 65-71-80-89-97-107 stitches (= half the front piece including the mid-stitch) on 1 thread and the last 64-70-79-88-96-106 stitches (= half the back piece) on the same thread. Now work as follows across the remaining 129-141-159-177-193-213 stitches on the needle (i.e. from after the 4th marker thread up to and including the stitch with the 1st marker thread = left side of the jumper, from mid front to mid back):
ROW 1 (= right side): bind off the first 2 stitches, work the pattern as before until there are 3 stitches left before the marker under the sleeve, decrease 1 stitch on each side of the marker as before (= 2 stitches decreased), work the pattern as before for the rest of the row = 2 stitches decreased at the beginning of the row towards mid front and 2 stitches decreased in the side of the jumper (= in total 4 stitches decreased).
ROW 2 (= wrong side): bind off the first 2 stitches, Work the pattern to the end of the row as before = 2 stitches decreased at the start of the row towards mid back.
ROW 3: bind off the first 2 stitches, work the pattern for the rest of the row as before = 2 stitches decreased at the start of the row towards mid front.
ROW 4: Work as for row 2 = 2 stitches decreased at the beginning of the row towards mid back.
ROW 5: Work as for row 3 = 2 stitches decreased at the beginning of the row towards mid front.
ROW 6: Work as for row 2 = 2 stitches decreased at the beginning of the row towards mid back.
ROW 7: Work as for row 1 = 2 stitches decreased at the beginning of the row towards mid front and 2 stitches decreased in the side of the jumper (= in total 4 stitches decreased).
ROW 8: Work as for row 2 = 2 stitches decreased at the beginning of the row towards mid back.
ROW 9: Work as for row 3 = 2 stitches decreased at the beginning of the row towards mid front.
ROW 10: Work as for row 2 = 2 stitches decreased at the beginning of the row towards mid back.

Repeat rows 1-10 until there are 5 stitches left on the needle and bind off. Place the stitches from the thread back on the needle and work in the same way (= right side of the jumper, from mid back to mid front).

SLEEVE:
Place the stitches from the thread in the right side of the piece (when the garment is worn) on a short circular needle size 3 mm / US 2.5, in addition knit up 1 stitch in each of the 6-6-12-12-12-12 stitches cast on under the sleeve = 79-89-99-103-109-113 stitches on the needle. Insert 1 marker in the middle of these new stitches. The marker follows the piece. Continue A.1/A.2 as before, but the stitches which do not fit the pattern under the sleeve are knitted in rounds of knit and purled in rounds of purl.
When the piece measures 3 cm / 1'' decrease 1 stitch on each side of the marker – READ DECREASE TIP-1 (= 2 stitches decreased). Decrease in this way a total of 15-20-25-24-27-26 times in S: Every 6th round, in M: Every 5th round, in L + XL: Every 3rd round and in XXL + XXXL: Alternately every 2nd and 3rd round = 49-49-49-55-55-61 stitches. When the piece measures 34-33-31-30-26-25 cm / 13½"-13"-12 1/4"-11 3/4"-10 1/4"-9 3/4" from the separation (or try the garment on and work to desired length), change to double pointed needles size 2.5 mm / US 1.5. Work 4 RIDGES. Change back to double pointed needles size 3 mm / US 2.5 and bind off. The sleeve measures approx. 36-35-33-32-28-27 cm / 14 1/4"-13 3/4"-13"-12½"-11"-10½" from the separation. Work the other sleeve in the same way, but continue A.2/A.3 as before.

RIDGE EDGE AT BOTTOM OF BODY:
Knit up stitches for an edge inside 1 stitch along the whole of the bottom edge of the jumper. Knit up approx. 240-260-290-332-364-406 stitches evenly spaced from the right side with circular needle size 2.5 mm / US 1.5. Make sure the edge does not tighten the body! If it does, then knit up more stitches. Work 3 ridges. Change to circular needle size 3 mm / US 2.5 and bind off.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = knit from right side, purl from wrong side
symbols = purl from right side, knit from wrong side
symbols = between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over
symbols = knit 2 together
symbols = slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1, lift the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch
symbols = slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 2 together, lift the slipped stitch over the knitted together stitches
symbols = knitting direction
diagram
diagram

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 177-6) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

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Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (80)

country flag Annelies Rennert wrote:

Noch eine Frage, da mein lochmuster im zickt zack nicht stimmt, muss das Diagramm immer fortlaufend gestrickt werden. Also A1, A2, A3 UND WIEDER A1, A2, A3 bis die Runde um ist, oder? Finde auch keine Erklärung dazu

21.06.2022 - 21:39

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Rennert, also die Diagramme werden wie zuvor weitergestrickt, dh vor der Markierung in der Mitte Rücken- und Vorderteil stricken Sie A.1, dann A.2 über die mittlere Masche und A.3 nach der Markierung bis zur Ärmel, bei der 1. Ärmel wiederholen Sie A.1 und enden Sie mit A.2 über die letzte Masche und bei der 2. stricken Sie A.1 dann wiederholen Sie A.3. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

22.06.2022 kl. 08:20

country flag Annelies Rennert wrote:

Hallöchen, habe 17 cm erreicht und bin oben beim Diagramm angelangt. Es fehlen aber an jeden Teil ca. 17 MA. MUSS ICH MIT DEM DIAGRAMM wieder von unten anfangen? Das Zickzack lochmuster sieht bei mir anders aus. 1 Kästchen eine MA, wieso bei Vorderseite rechts RR links stricken. Wäre doch z.b. am Anfang keine 5 Reihen sondern 10. Da sind es bis zum Ende des Diagramm 100 Reigen und keine 50.

21.06.2022 - 20:24

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Rennert, 1 Kästchen im Diagram = 1 Masche x 1 Runde/Reihe, so beginnen Sie mit 5 Runden rechts, 1 Runde links, 1 Runde rechts, 1 Runde links (= 2 krausrippen), 4 Runden rechts usw... wenn die Diagramme fertig sind, werden sie vom Anfang an wiederholt. Am Ende Rumpfteil (wenn die Seiten separat gestrickt werden) stricken Sie dann in Hin- und Rückreihen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

22.06.2022 kl. 08:12

country flag Annelies Rennert wrote:

Hallöchen, jetzt habe ich alles wieder aufgerebbelt. Meine Frage, beidseitig 1. Und 4. Markierungsfaden zunehmen verstehe ich. Vor dem 3. Und 6. Und nach dem 2. Und 5. Markierungsfaden habe ich keinen Plan. Sie schreiben am Ende Rumpfteil Arbeit teilen in 2 und stricken Mitte Vorderteil bis Mitte rückenteil. Das verstehe ich nicht, da muss ich doch zusammnähen. Ich habe es mir einfacher vorgestellt. LG.

13.06.2022 - 12:34

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Rennert, beidseitig von 1. und 4. Markierungsfäden sind Mitte-Vorder- + Rückenteil, dann nehmen Sie für die Ärmel zu: nach 2. + vor 3. Mark. = 1. Ärmel + nach 5. + vor 6. = 2. Ärmel. Schauen Sie mal die gestrichte Linie in Diagonale bei der Maßskizze = Wenn Rumpfteil dieses Form hat, wird man nicht mehr in Runden stricken sondern jedes Teil separat stricken, von der Mitte vorne bis Mitte Rückenteil und gleichzeitig Maschen abketten (keine Naht), es passiert ab 46 bis 63 cm unter RUMPFTEIL. Kann das Ihnen besser helfen?

13.06.2022 kl. 16:19

country flag Annelies Rennert wrote:

Muss ich nach dem Diagramm 1 gesehen über 6 MA 2X zusammen stricken dann umschlag, 3x, dann 1MA rechts und jetzt über 12 MA 2x zusammen stricken und dann wieder eine rechts? Muss ich links und rechts vom eingelegten markierungsfaden zunehmen? Wieso gibt es Rückseiten.? Habe nur als ich angefangen habe 5x rechts gestrickt. Bitte nochmal um Hilfe, wenn es nicht klappt höre ich auf. LG. Annelies Rennert

10.06.2022 - 15:03

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Rennert, könnten Sie uns bitte sagen, welches Teil Sie gerade stricken, so können wir zusammen prüfen und helfen. Am Ende Rumpfteil teilen Sie die Arbeit in 2 und stricken Sie jede Hälfte (von der Mitte Vorderteil bis der Mitte Rückenteil) in Reihen um die Seiten "flach" zu bekommen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

13.06.2022 kl. 08:22

country flag Annelies Rennert wrote:

Gestrickt., dann lt. Diagramm die linken. Also nur wie man es sieht. Am spitze Ausschnitt sind auch auf einem Stück von der Mittelmasche links und rechts Löcher dann hört es auf. Bitte nochmal um Hilfe und Info. Danke

09.06.2022 - 14:41

country flag Annelies Rennert wrote:

Hallöchen, danke schon mal für Ihre Nachricht, vorhergehende. Ich komme nicht klar obwohl ich schon viele schöne Sachen gestrickt habe. " 1. Markierungsfaden an der nächsten masche anbringen, das könnte noch klar sein. 2. Markierungsfaden vor der nächsten Masche anbringen? Was verstehe ich darunter? Wie nehme ich dann zu? Mfg. Annelies Rennert

03.06.2022 - 21:10

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Rennert, es wird Markierungsfaden in den Maschen und zwischen den Maschen eingesetzt: der 1. wird in die mittlere Masche am Rückenteil, der 2. und 3. sind zwischen Maschen eingesetzt (= Ärmel), der 4. wird in die mittlere Masche am Vordderteil, und der 5. und 6. sind zwischen Maschen eingesetzt (= Ärmel). Die Raglanzunahmen werden bei den Markierungsfäden gestrickt - siehe RAGLANZUNAHMEN. Kann das Ihnen helfen? Viel Spaß beim stricken!

07.06.2022 kl. 08:11

country flag Annelies Rennert wrote:

Hallo, bin gerade am Anfang von anleitung g drops 177-6. Ich stosse auf eine Unklarheit ich Wechsel jetzt zur nadelstärke 3. "Wie folgt ab linker Schulter des Rückens stricken. Dann 36 Ma , 6 Rapporte a 6 MA , Markuerungsfaden anbringen und dann = hintere Mitte. Das ist mir unklar. Wenn ich vom Rücken die linke Schulter stricke so komme ich doch nicht auf die hintere Mitte.

01.06.2022 - 19:57

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Rennert, die Runden beginnen ganz am Anfang von Rückenteil, dh nach der linken Schulter (wenn man den Pullover trägt), so stricken Sie 36 M A.1 + A.2 (hintere Mitte) + 36 M A.3 (= Rückenteil), 12 M A.1, A.2 (= re. Ärmel), 36 M A.1 + A.2 (hintere vorne) + 36 M A.3 und 12 M A.1, A.2 (= li. Ärmel) - kann das Ihnen mehr helfen? Viel Spaß beim stricken!

02.06.2022 kl. 08:43

country flag Søs Degn wrote:

Hvor mange masker skal der tages ud på ryg og forstyk\r\nmvh søs degn

15.03.2022 - 20:46

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Søs. Det kommer an på hvilken størrelse du strikker, men alt er forklart under oppskriften (ryd- og forstykke). Der står det hvor mange masker det skal felles og økes. mvh DROPS Design

21.03.2022 kl. 12:00

country flag Denise wrote:

3w geleden stelde ik u een vraag. Geen antwoord. Vandaag maakte ik me lid op de fb-groep. Ik stelde een hulpvraag over het patroon van dit model dat ik al 3w probeer te breien en dat me maar niet lukt. Mijn vraag werd integraal verwijderd met als feedback dat ik bepaalde trefwoorden gebruikt had. Dewelke? Geen idee! Waarom krijg ik van u geen hulp? Waarom mag ik de andere breisters geen hulp vragen? Heel graag een duidelijk antwoord aub!

12.01.2022 - 19:52

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Denise,

Wat vervelend dat je vraag verwijderd wordt van facebook. Eerlijk gezegd weet ik niet precies waar dat aan ligt. Je vorige vraag is inmiddels beantwoord (deze was over het hoofd gezien) en hopelijk kun je nu verder.

Nog even een aanvulling op je eerste vraag: Zie ook punt 9 bij de veel gestelde vragen over hoe je breit volgens een telpatroon.

13.01.2022 kl. 19:10

country flag Denise wrote:

Wordt deze trui heen en weer gebreid of rond? Indien heen en weer: zijn raglan meerderingen in elke nld dan zowel in rechtse als averechtse kant? Worden de st in averechtse kant gebreid zoals de st zich voordoen? Zelfs met 60j brei-ervaring is dit patroon voor mij Chinees. Groeten, Denise

24.12.2021 - 00:12

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Denise,

Deze trui wordt in de rondte gebreid, dus je breit de hele tijd op de goede kant. Voor het geval dat je het telpatroon ergens anders voor wilt gebruiken: de steken worden op de verkeerde kant inderdaad gebreid zoals ze zich voordoen en de omslagen worden gewoon averecht gebreid, zodat er een gaatje ontstaat.

13.01.2022 kl. 19:06

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