DROPS / 177 / 6

Chevron Delight by DROPS Design

Jumper worked top down with raglan and lace pattern in DROPS BabyAlpaca Silk. Sizes S - XXXL.

DROPS Design: Pattern no. bs-118
Yarn group A
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Sizes: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS BABYALPACA SILK from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
400-400-450-500-550-600 g colour 1306, powder

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 + 80 cm) SIZE 3 MM – or the size needed to get 24 stitches and 32 rows stocking stitch on 10 cm in width and 10 cm in height.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 + 80 cm) SIZE 2.5 MM – for the ridge edges.
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Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.
Comments (42) FAQ

70% Alpaca, 30% Silk
from 4.10 £ /50g
DROPS BabyAlpaca Silk uni colour DROPS BabyAlpaca Silk uni colour 4.10 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 32.80£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked in the round):
1 ridge = 2 rounds. Knit 1 round and purl 1 round. 

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.3. The diagrams show all the rows in the pattern from the right side.

INCREASE TIP:
To work out how to increase evenly, count the total number of stitches on the needle (e.g. 124 stitches) and divide by the number of increases to be made (e.g. 12) = 10.3. In this example, increase after approx. every 10th stitch. Increase 1 stitch by making 1 yarn over, on the next round work the yarn overs twisted knit to prevent holes.

RAGLAN:
Increase to raglan on each side of the stitch with the marker thread mid front/mid back and in each of side of the sleeves (i.e. on each side of the 1st and 4th marker thread, before the 3rd and 6th marker thread and after the 2nd and 5th marker thread).
Increase 1 stitch by making 1 yarn over, on the next round the yarn overs are worked twisted knit to prevent holes. The increased stitches are worked into the pattern as you go. NOTE: The increases are different on the body and sleeves as explained in the text.

DECREASE TIP-1 (for the sides of the body and mid underarm):
Decrease 1 stitch on each side of each marker thread as follows: Work until there are 3 stitches left before the marker, knit 2 together, knit 2 (the marker sits in the middle of these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch (= 2 stitches decreased).

DECREASE TIP-2 (for the sides of the body):
Decrease 2 stitches on each side of each marker as follows: Work until there are 5 stitches left before the marker, * knit 2 together *, repeat from *-* in total 2 times (= 2 stitches decreased), knit 2 (the marker sits in the middle of these 2 stitches), * slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch *, repeat from *-* in total 2 times (= 4 stitches decreased).
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JUMPER:
The piece is worked with circular needle and from the top down. The sleeves are worked with a short circular needle/double pointed needles.

YOKE:
Cast on 124-124-132-132-148-148 stitches with circular needle size 2.5 mm and BabyAlpaca Silk. Work 3 RIDGES – see description above, AT THE SAME TIME on the 4th round increase 12-12-20-20-24-24 stitches evenly along the round – READ INCREASE TIP = 136-136-152-152-172-172 stitches. Repeat the increase on the 6th round = 148-148-172-172-196-196 stitches on the needle.
Change to circular needle size 3 mm and work the next round as follows from the left shoulder back: Work A.1 across the first 30-30-36-36-42-42 stitches (= 5-5-6-6-7-7 repeats of 6 stitches), insert the 1st marker thread in the next stitch and work the stitch A.2 (= mid back), work A.3 across the next 30-30-36-36-42-42 stitches (= 5-5-6-6-7-7 repeats of 6 stitches), insert the 2nd marker thread before the next stitch, work A.1 across the next 12 stitches (= 2 repeats of 6 stitches), work A.2 (= 1 stitch), insert the 3rd marker thread before the next stitch (= 13 stitches on the right sleeve between the 2nd and 3rd marker thread), work A.1 across the next 30-30-36-36-42-42 stitches, insert the 4th marker thread in the next stitch and work this stitch A.2 (= mid front), work A.3 across the next 30-30-36-36-42-42 stitches, insert the 5th marker thread before the next stitch, work A.2 (= 1 stitch), work A.3 across the next 12 stitches, insert the 6th marker thread before the next stitch (= 13 stitches on the left sleeve between the 5th and 6th marker thread).
There are now 6 marker threads in the piece.
Continue the pattern as follows (A.1-A.3 repeated to finished length). AT THE SAME TIME on the first round after the marker threads have been inserted begin the increases to RAGLAN – see description above. Increase as follows:
BODY:
Increase every round in total 6-12-10-22-18-30 times, then every 2nd round in total 28-28-30-28-34-32 times (= in total 34-40-40-50-52-62 times).
SLEEVE:
Increase every round in total 0-3-4-2-0-0 times, every 2nd round in total 29-32-33-37-40-41 times and then every 4th round in total 1-0-0-0-2-3 times (= in total 30-35-37-39-42-44 times).
REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! When the increases to raglan are finished the piece measures approx. 20-22-23-25-28-30 cm from the cast-on edge (measured mid front). There are 64-70-76-86-94-104 stitches on each side of the 1st and 4th marker thread (= 129-141-153-173-189-209 stitches on the front and back pieces including the stitches with marker threads) and 73-83-87-91-97-101 stitches on each sleeve = in total 404-448-480-528-572-620 stitches on the needle.
The next round is worked as follows: Twisted knit together the first 2 stitches (= 1 stitch decreased), work as before to the 1st marker thread, make 1 yarn over, work the stitch as before (= mid back), make 1 yarn over (= 2 stitches increased), work as before until there are 2 stitches left before the 2nd marker, knit 2 together (= 1 stitch decreased), place the next 73-83-87-91-97-101 stitches (i.e. the stitches between the 2nd and 3rd marker threads) on a thread for the sleeve, cast on 6-6-12-12-12-12 new stitches under the sleeve, insert 1 marker in the middle of the new stitches, twisted knit 2 stitches together (= 1 stitch decreased), work the pattern as before to the 4th marker thread, make 1 yarn over, work the stitch as before (= mid front), make 1 yarn over (= 2 stitches increased), work the pattern as before until there are 2 stitches left before the 5th marker thread, knit 2 together (= 1 stitch decreased), place the next 73-83-87-91-97-101 stitches (i.e. the stitches between the 5th and 6th marker threads) on 1 thread for the sleeve, cast on 6-6-12-12-12-12 new stitches under the sleeve and insert 1 marker in the middle of these new stitches = 270-294-330-370-402-442 stitches on the needle. Cut the strand. THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE!

BODY:
Displace the round so that it starts mid-under the sleeve in the right side of the piece when the garment is worn (i.e. move the next stitches across to the right needle without working them first). The markers follow as you work the piece. Continue the pattern as before – NOTE: The new stitches under the sleeve in each side are worked in to the pattern, adjust so that the pattern is symmetrical under the sleeve (i.e. on each side of the marker). AT THE SAME TIME every 2nd round increase 1 stitch on each side of the stitch with the 1st and 4th marker thread in the same way as before and decrease 1 stitch on each side of the marker under the sleeve in each side – READ DECREASE TIP-1 = 4 stitches increased and 4 stitches decreased. When you increase and decrease in this way the number of stitches remains the same. 

When the piece measures 3 cm from the separation under each sleeve – adjust so that the next round is an increase/decrease round and now decrease 2 stitches on each side of the marker under each sleeve (the increases front and back continue as before) – READ DECREASE TIP-2 = 4 stitches increased and 8 stitches decreased.
Decrease and increase like this every 4-4-4-3-3-3 cm in total 3-3-3-4-4-4 times = 258-282-318-354-386-426 stitches. Then work as before with 4 decreases and 4 increases every 2nd round. 

Continue in this way until the piece measures approx. 46-50-51-55-58-63 cm measured along the middle stitch (i.e. by the 1st and 4th marker thread), but finish so that the next round is an increase/decrease round. The piece now measures approx. 56-60-61-65-69-74 cm measured from the shoulder and down at the longest part. Cut the strand.
Place the first 65-71-80-89-97-107 stitches (= half the front piece including the mid-stitch) on 1 thread and the last 64-70-79-88-96-106 stitches (= half the back piece) on the same thread. Now work as follows across the remaining 129-141-159-177-193-213 stitches on the needle (i.e. from after the 4th marker thread up to and including the stitch with the 1st marker thread = left side of the jumper, from mid front to mid back):
ROW 1 (= right side): Cast off the first 2 stitches, work the pattern as before until there are 3 stitches left before the marker under the sleeve, decrease 1 stitch on each side of the marker as before (= 2 stitches decreased), work the pattern as before for the rest of the row = 2 stitches decreased at the beginning of the row towards mid front and 2 stitches decreased in the side of the jumper (= in total 4 stitches decreased).
ROW 2 (= wrong side): Cast off the first 2 stitches, Work the pattern to the end of the row as before = 2 stitches decreased at the start of the row towards mid back.
ROW 3: Cast off the first 2 stitches, work the pattern for the rest of the row as before = 2 stitches decreased at the start of the row towards mid front.
ROW 4: Work as for row 2 = 2 stitches decreased at the beginning of the row towards mid back.
ROW 5: Work as for row 3 = 2 stitches decreased at the beginning of the row towards mid front.
ROW 6: Work as for row 2 = 2 stitches decreased at the beginning of the row towards mid back.
ROW 7: Work as for row 1 = 2 stitches decreased at the beginning of the row towards mid front and 2 stitches decreased in the side of the jumper (= in total 4 stitches decreased).
ROW 8: Work as for row 2 = 2 stitches decreased at the beginning of the row towards mid back.
ROW 9: Work as for row 3 = 2 stitches decreased at the beginning of the row towards mid front.
ROW 10: Work as for row 2 = 2 stitches decreased at the beginning of the row towards mid back.

Repeat rows 1-10 until there are 5 stitches left on the needle and cast off. Place the stitches from the thread back on the needle and work in the same way (= right side of the jumper, from mid back to mid front).

SLEEVE:
Place the stitches from the thread in the right side of the piece (when the garment is worn) on a short circular needle size 3 mm, in addition knit up 1 stitch in each of the 6-6-12-12-12-12 stitches cast on under the sleeve = 79-89-99-103-109-113 stitches on the needle. Insert 1 marker in the middle of these new stitches. The marker follows the piece. Continue A.1/A.2 as before, but the stitches which do not fit the pattern under the sleeve are knitted in rounds of knit and purled in rounds of purl.
When the piece measures 3 cm decrease 1 stitch on each side of the marker – READ DECREASE TIP-1 (= 2 stitches decreased). Decrease in this way a total of 15-20-25-24-27-26 times in S: Every 6th round, in M: Every 5th round, in L + XL: Every 3rd round and in XXL + XXXL: Alternately every 2nd and 3rd round = 49-49-49-55-55-61 stitches. When the piece measures 34-33-31-30-26-25 cm from the separation (or try the garment on and work to desired length), change to double pointed needles size 2.5 mm. Work 4 RIDGES. Change back to double pointed needles size 3 mm and cast off. The sleeve measures approx. 36-35-33-32-28-27 cm from the separation. Work the other sleeve in the same way, but continue A.2/A.3 as before.

RIDGE EDGE AT BOTTOM OF BODY:
Knit up stitches for an edge inside 1 stitch along the whole of the bottom edge of the jumper. Knit up approx. 240-260-290-332-364-406 stitches evenly spaced from the right side with circular needle size 2.5 mm. Make sure the edge does not tighten the body! If it does, then knit up more stitches. Work 3 ridges. Change to circular needle size 3 mm and cast off.

Diagram

= knit from right side, purl from wrong side
= purl from right side, knit from wrong side
= between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over
= knit 2 together
= slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1, lift the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch
= slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 2 together, lift the slipped stitch over the knitted together stitches
= knitting direction


Lindis 08.08.2019 - 14:24:

Hei. Tillegg til spørsmålet. På bildet der det ut som det ligger en maske over økinga. Ser ut likedan som 1m løs av 2m sammen og trekk løs m over, eller som en liten flette Det kan umulig stemme for det er felling. Økes som i oppskrifta så ser det ikke ut som en maske ligger over.

DROPS Design 09.08.2019 kl. 10:38:

Hej igen, du strikker økningerne ifølge RAGLAN øverst i opskriften. Og du strikker fletterne ifølge diagrammerne. God fornøjelse!

Lindis 08.08.2019 - 13:07:

Hei. Jeg lurer på hvordan jeg skal øke forran og bak ser det er to måter? I oppskrifta står det samme type øking, men på bildet er det en annen type økning etter noen cm. Synes den nederste økningen er fin og ønsker å gjøre det likedan. Hvordan strikkes den? Finner ingen ting om det på oppskriften.

DROPS Design 09.08.2019 kl. 10:35:

Hej Lindis, du øker på samme måde alle 4 steder, men du øger på forskellige omgange til bol og ermer. RAGLAN: Øk til raglan på hver side av masken med merketråd i midt foran/midt bak og i hver side på hvert erme (dvs på hver side av 1. og 4.merketråd, før 3. og 6.merketråd og etter 2. og 5.merketråd). Øk 1 maske ved å lage 1 kast om pinnen, på neste omgang strikkes kastet vridd slik at det ikke blir hull. De økte maskene strikkes fortløpende inn i mønsteret.

Susanne Holmberg 01.08.2019 - 12:17:

Jag stickar st. Xl. När man ska minska i sidan var 3:e cm, ska man på varven emellan göra samma ökning- minskning vart annat varv med lika många maskor på varvet som före och efter dubbelminskningarna?

DROPS Design 02.08.2019 kl. 09:46:

Hej Susanne, ja du fortsätter samma ökning och minskning på vart annat varv. Lycka till :)

Sanne Visbak 11.07.2019 - 16:18:

Ser ud til, mit spm ikke er sendt, så jeg prøver igen. Jeg strikker str L og min strikkefasrhed passer. Når jeg har sat masker af til ærmer og slået nye op, har jeg korrekt 330 masker. Iht strikkefastheden svarer det til 113,7 cm i omkreds. Iht tegningen i opskriften skal omkredsen være 98 cm. I andre opskrifter jeg har lavet er målet på tegningen arbejdets mål. Er der en fejl her?

DROPS Design 12.07.2019 kl. 08:16:

Hei Sanne. Målene i målskissen er plaggets endelige mål. Grunnen til at det ikke passer er at det strikkes i en V-form (med økninger på midten og fellinger i sidene). På grunn av denne formen trengs fler masker for å oppnå samme cm-mål i bredden enn om du hadde strikket vanlig glattstrikk. God fornøyelse

Sanne Visbak 11.07.2019 - 15:54:

Jeg stillede et spørgsmål for 4-5 dage siden, hvornår kan man forvente svar?

DROPS Design 12.07.2019 kl. 08:16:

se svar over :)

Manuela 24.04.2019 - 19:17:

Ich arbeite das erste Mal Raglan. In der Anleitung steht, dass in jeder Runde zugenommen werden soll. Ich interpretiere das so, dass ich in der Runde zunehme. In der nächsten Runde stricke ich dem Umschlag rechts verschränkt und stricke den nächsten Umschlag gleich hinterher? Danke für die Antwort.

DROPS Design 25.04.2019 kl. 08:59:

Liebe Manuela, ja genau, wenn Sie in jeder Runde zunehmen, stricken Sie die Zunahmen von vorrigen Reihe verschränkt, und gleichzeitig nehmen Sie wie zuvor 1 Maschen zu (= beidseitig der Masche mit dem Markierungsfaden an der vorderen/hinteren Mitte und beidseitig an jedem Ärmel). Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Bente 05.03.2019 - 15:21:

Glemte å si at jeg strikker størrelse XL så arbeidet skal måle 25 cm

DROPS Design 05.03.2019 kl. 15:36:

Hei Bente. Se svar under

Bente 05.03.2019 - 15:18:

Når jeg har økt antallet jeg skal øke er arbeidet bare 20 cm. Hva gjør jeg nå?

DROPS Design 05.03.2019 kl. 15:36:

Hei Bente. Da høres det ut osm du har en litt stram strikkefasthet (hvertfal i høyden) har du kontrollert at den stemmer i bredden? Bare sånn at du vet den ikke blir for smal. Hvis den stemmer i bredden gjør det ikke noe at den ikke stemmer i høyden. Du kan helt fint fortsette å strikke uten økning til arbeidet måler 25 cm. Det kan hende du må strikke fler rapporter av A.1-A.3 i høyden, og det kan også være garnforbruket ditt er noe større enn angitt i oppskriften. God fornøyelse

Susanne 20.02.2019 - 10:30:

Noch eine Frage: Die Passe beginnt laut Anleitung "ab der linken Schulter des Rückens" – wenn ich aber bei der ersten markierten Masche in der hinteren Mitte bin, habe ich doch an der rechten hinteren Schulter angefangen, oder? Dann käme in der Runde der linke Ärmel (nicht der rechte wie angegeben), dann die vordere Mitte, dann der rechte Ärmel. Oder habe ich da einen Denkfehler drin?

DROPS Design 20.02.2019 kl. 13:47:

Liebe Susanne, es wird am Anfang vom Rückenteil angefangen, dh nach dem linken Ärmeln und Sie stricken zuerst Rückenteil, dann re. Ärmel, Vorderteil und li. Ärmel. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Susanne 20.02.2019 - 10:23:

Hallo, ich verstehe nicht so ganz, wo die eine Masche A2 bleibt, die in beiden Ärmeln vorne eingefügt wird. Wenn ich vor dem 3. und nach dem 5. Markierungsfaden zunehme, befinden sich dann die Zunahmen nicht alle vor der 1 M in A2? Wenn die Masche sozusagen an der Raglankante hochlaufen soll, müssten die Zunahmen dann nicht jeweils auf der anderen Seite der A2-Masche erfolgen, sodass sie neben dem Markierungsfaden bleibt? Und warum gibt es diese Masche nur vorn am Ärmel und nicht hinten?

DROPS Design 20.02.2019 kl. 13:45:

Liebe Susanne, bei den Ärmeln nehmen Sie so zu: 1. Ärmel nach 2. Markierer und A.1 und nach A.2 = vor 3. Markierer. 2. Ärmel: nach 5. Markierer und vor A.2 und nach A.3 = vor 6. Markierer. A.2 auf den Ärmel ist so gestrickt, daß das Muster beidseitig gleich wird. Die neuen Maschen werden im A.1/A.3 gestrickt. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

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