DROPS / 177 / 6

Chevron Delight by DROPS Design

Jumper worked top down with raglan and lace pattern in DROPS BabyAlpaca Silk. Sizes S - XXXL.

DROPS Design: Pattern no. bs-118
Yarn group A
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Sizes: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS BABYALPACA SILK from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
400-400-450-500-550-600 g colour 1306, powder

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 + 80 cm) SIZE 3 MM – or the size needed to get 24 stitches and 32 rows stocking stitch on 10 cm in width and 10 cm in height.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 + 80 cm) SIZE 2.5 MM – for the ridge edges.
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Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.
Comments (34)

70% Alpaca, 30% Silk
from 4.10 £ /50g
DROPS BabyAlpaca Silk uni colour DROPS BabyAlpaca Silk uni colour 4.10 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 32.80£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked in the round):
1 ridge = 2 rounds. Knit 1 round and purl 1 round. 

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.3. The diagrams show all the rows in the pattern from the right side.

INCREASE TIP:
To work out how to increase evenly, count the total number of stitches on the needle (e.g. 124 stitches) and divide by the number of increases to be made (e.g. 12) = 10.3. In this example, increase after approx. every 10th stitch. Increase 1 stitch by making 1 yarn over, on the next round work the yarn overs twisted knit to prevent holes.

RAGLAN:
Increase to raglan on each side of the stitch with the marker thread mid front/mid back and in each of side of the sleeves (i.e. on each side of the 1st and 4th marker thread, before the 3rd and 6th marker thread and after the 2nd and 5th marker thread).
Increase 1 stitch by making 1 yarn over, on the next round the yarn overs are worked twisted knit to prevent holes. The increased stitches are worked into the pattern as you go. NOTE: The increases are different on the body and sleeves as explained in the text.

DECREASE TIP-1 (for the sides of the body and mid underarm):
Decrease 1 stitch on each side of each marker thread as follows: Work until there are 3 stitches left before the marker, knit 2 together, knit 2 (the marker sits in the middle of these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch (= 2 stitches decreased).

DECREASE TIP-2 (for the sides of the body):
Decrease 2 stitches on each side of each marker as follows: Work until there are 5 stitches left before the marker, * knit 2 together *, repeat from *-* in total 2 times (= 2 stitches decreased), knit 2 (the marker sits in the middle of these 2 stitches), * slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch *, repeat from *-* in total 2 times (= 4 stitches decreased).
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JUMPER:
The piece is worked with circular needle and from the top down. The sleeves are worked with a short circular needle/double pointed needles.

YOKE:
Cast on 124-124-132-132-148-148 stitches with circular needle size 2.5 mm and BabyAlpaca Silk. Work 3 RIDGES – see description above, AT THE SAME TIME on the 4th round increase 12-12-20-20-24-24 stitches evenly along the round – READ INCREASE TIP = 136-136-152-152-172-172 stitches. Repeat the increase on the 6th round = 148-148-172-172-196-196 stitches on the needle.
Change to circular needle size 3 mm and work the next round as follows from the left shoulder back: Work A.1 across the first 30-30-36-36-42-42 stitches (= 5-5-6-6-7-7 repeats of 6 stitches), insert the 1st marker thread in the next stitch and work the stitch A.2 (= mid back), work A.3 across the next 30-30-36-36-42-42 stitches (= 5-5-6-6-7-7 repeats of 6 stitches), insert the 2nd marker thread before the next stitch, work A.1 across the next 12 stitches (= 2 repeats of 6 stitches), work A.2 (= 1 stitch), insert the 3rd marker thread before the next stitch (= 13 stitches on the right sleeve between the 2nd and 3rd marker thread), work A.1 across the next 30-30-36-36-42-42 stitches, insert the 4th marker thread in the next stitch and work this stitch A.2 (= mid front), work A.3 across the next 30-30-36-36-42-42 stitches, insert the 5th marker thread before the next stitch, work A.2 (= 1 stitch), work A.3 across the next 12 stitches, insert the 6th marker thread before the next stitch (= 13 stitches on the left sleeve between the 5th and 6th marker thread).
There are now 6 marker threads in the piece.
Continue the pattern as follows (A.1-A.3 repeated to finished length). AT THE SAME TIME on the first round after the marker threads have been inserted begin the increases to RAGLAN – see description above. Increase as follows:
BODY:
Increase every round in total 6-12-10-22-18-30 times, then every 2nd round in total 28-28-30-28-34-32 times (= in total 34-40-40-50-52-62 times).
SLEEVE:
Increase every round in total 0-3-4-2-0-0 times, every 2nd round in total 29-32-33-37-40-41 times and then every 4th round in total 1-0-0-0-2-3 times (= in total 30-35-37-39-42-44 times).
REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! When the increases to raglan are finished the piece measures approx. 20-22-23-25-28-30 cm from the cast-on edge (measured mid front). There are 64-70-76-86-94-104 stitches on each side of the 1st and 4th marker thread (= 129-141-153-173-189-209 stitches on the front and back pieces including the stitches with marker threads) and 73-83-87-91-97-101 stitches on each sleeve = in total 404-448-480-528-572-620 stitches on the needle.
The next round is worked as follows: Twisted knit together the first 2 stitches (= 1 stitch decreased), work as before to the 1st marker thread, make 1 yarn over, work the stitch as before (= mid back), make 1 yarn over (= 2 stitches increased), work as before until there are 2 stitches left before the 2nd marker, knit 2 together (= 1 stitch decreased), place the next 73-83-87-91-97-101 stitches (i.e. the stitches between the 2nd and 3rd marker threads) on a thread for the sleeve, cast on 6-6-12-12-12-12 new stitches under the sleeve, insert 1 marker in the middle of the new stitches, twisted knit 2 stitches together (= 1 stitch decreased), work the pattern as before to the 4th marker thread, make 1 yarn over, work the stitch as before (= mid front), make 1 yarn over (= 2 stitches increased), work the pattern as before until there are 2 stitches left before the 5th marker thread, knit 2 together (= 1 stitch decreased), place the next 73-83-87-91-97-101 stitches (i.e. the stitches between the 5th and 6th marker threads) on 1 thread for the sleeve, cast on 6-6-12-12-12-12 new stitches under the sleeve and insert 1 marker in the middle of these new stitches = 270-294-330-370-402-442 stitches on the needle. Cut the strand. THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE!

BODY:
Displace the round so that it starts mid-under the sleeve in the right side of the piece when the garment is worn (i.e. move the next stitches across to the right needle without working them first). The markers follow as you work the piece. Continue the pattern as before – NOTE: The new stitches under the sleeve in each side are worked in to the pattern, adjust so that the pattern is symmetrical under the sleeve (i.e. on each side of the marker). AT THE SAME TIME every 2nd round increase 1 stitch on each side of the stitch with the 1st and 4th marker thread in the same way as before and decrease 1 stitch on each side of the marker under the sleeve in each side – READ DECREASE TIP-1 = 4 stitches increased and 4 stitches decreased. When you increase and decrease in this way the number of stitches remains the same. 

When the piece measures 3 cm from the separation under each sleeve – adjust so that the next round is an increase/decrease round and now decrease 2 stitches on each side of the marker under each sleeve (the increases front and back continue as before) – READ DECREASE TIP-2 = 4 stitches increased and 8 stitches decreased.
Decrease and increase like this every 4-4-4-3-3-3 cm in total 3-3-3-4-4-4 times = 258-282-318-354-386-426 stitches. Then work as before with 4 decreases and 4 increases every 2nd round. 

Continue in this way until the piece measures approx. 46-50-51-55-58-63 cm measured along the middle stitch (i.e. by the 1st and 4th marker thread), but finish so that the next round is an increase/decrease round. The piece now measures approx. 56-60-61-65-69-74 cm measured from the shoulder and down at the longest part. Cut the strand.
Place the first 65-71-80-89-97-107 stitches (= half the front piece including the mid-stitch) on 1 thread and the last 64-70-79-88-96-106 stitches (= half the back piece) on the same thread. Now work as follows across the remaining 129-141-159-177-193-213 stitches on the needle (i.e. from after the 4th marker thread up to and including the stitch with the 1st marker thread = left side of the jumper, from mid front to mid back):
ROW 1 (= right side): Cast off the first 2 stitches, work the pattern as before until there are 3 stitches left before the marker under the sleeve, decrease 1 stitch on each side of the marker as before (= 2 stitches decreased), work the pattern as before for the rest of the row = 2 stitches decreased at the beginning of the row towards mid front and 2 stitches decreased in the side of the jumper (= in total 4 stitches decreased).
ROW 2 (= wrong side): Cast off the first 2 stitches, Work the pattern to the end of the row as before = 2 stitches decreased at the start of the row towards mid back.
ROW 3: Cast off the first 2 stitches, work the pattern for the rest of the row as before = 2 stitches decreased at the start of the row towards mid front.
ROW 4: Work as for row 2 = 2 stitches decreased at the beginning of the row towards mid back.
ROW 5: Work as for row 3 = 2 stitches decreased at the beginning of the row towards mid front.
ROW 6: Work as for row 2 = 2 stitches decreased at the beginning of the row towards mid back.
ROW 7: Work as for row 1 = 2 stitches decreased at the beginning of the row towards mid front and 2 stitches decreased in the side of the jumper (= in total 4 stitches decreased).
ROW 8: Work as for row 2 = 2 stitches decreased at the beginning of the row towards mid back.
ROW 9: Work as for row 3 = 2 stitches decreased at the beginning of the row towards mid front.
ROW 10: Work as for row 2 = 2 stitches decreased at the beginning of the row towards mid back.

Repeat rows 1-10 until there are 5 stitches left on the needle and cast off. Place the stitches from the thread back on the needle and work in the same way (= right side of the jumper, from mid back to mid front).

SLEEVE:
Place the stitches from the thread in the right side of the piece (when the garment is worn) on a short circular needle size 3 mm, in addition knit up 1 stitch in each of the 6-6-12-12-12-12 stitches cast on under the sleeve = 79-89-99-103-109-113 stitches on the needle. Insert 1 marker in the middle of these new stitches. The marker follows the piece. Continue A.1/A.2 as before, but the stitches which do not fit the pattern under the sleeve are knitted in rounds of knit and purled in rounds of purl.
When the piece measures 3 cm decrease 1 stitch on each side of the marker – READ DECREASE TIP-1 (= 2 stitches decreased). Decrease in this way a total of 15-20-25-24-27-26 times in S: Every 6th round, in M: Every 5th round, in L + XL: Every 3rd round and in XXL + XXXL: Alternately every 2nd and 3rd round = 49-49-49-55-55-61 stitches. When the piece measures 34-33-31-30-26-25 cm from the separation (or try the garment on and work to desired length), change to double pointed needles size 2.5 mm. Work 4 RIDGES. Change back to double pointed needles size 3 mm and cast off. The sleeve measures approx. 36-35-33-32-28-27 cm from the separation. Work the other sleeve in the same way, but continue A.2/A.3 as before.

RIDGE EDGE AT BOTTOM OF BODY:
Knit up stitches for an edge inside 1 stitch along the whole of the bottom edge of the jumper. Knit up approx. 240-260-290-332-364-406 stitches evenly spaced from the right side with circular needle size 2.5 mm. Make sure the edge does not tighten the body! If it does, then knit up more stitches. Work 3 ridges. Change to circular needle size 3 mm and cast off.

Diagram

= knit from right side, purl from wrong side
= purl from right side, knit from wrong side
= between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over
= knit 2 together
= slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1, lift the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch
= slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 2 together, lift the slipped stitch over the knitted together stitches
= knitting direction


Comments (34)

Leave your comment!

Susanne 20.02.2019 - 10:30:

Noch eine Frage: Die Passe beginnt laut Anleitung "ab der linken Schulter des Rückens" – wenn ich aber bei der ersten markierten Masche in der hinteren Mitte bin, habe ich doch an der rechten hinteren Schulter angefangen, oder? Dann käme in der Runde der linke Ärmel (nicht der rechte wie angegeben), dann die vordere Mitte, dann der rechte Ärmel. Oder habe ich da einen Denkfehler drin?

Susanne 20.02.2019 - 10:23:

Hallo, ich verstehe nicht so ganz, wo die eine Masche A2 bleibt, die in beiden Ärmeln vorne eingefügt wird. Wenn ich vor dem 3. und nach dem 5. Markierungsfaden zunehme, befinden sich dann die Zunahmen nicht alle vor der 1 M in A2? Wenn die Masche sozusagen an der Raglankante hochlaufen soll, müssten die Zunahmen dann nicht jeweils auf der anderen Seite der A2-Masche erfolgen, sodass sie neben dem Markierungsfaden bleibt? Und warum gibt es diese Masche nur vorn am Ärmel und nicht hinten?

Carol 27.01.2019 - 22:29:

Hi When increasing in the yoke section, do you continue the pattern through the increase sections? Otherwise I can see large sections of stocking stitch where the increases happen. Logically it just do hit it doesn’t make it clear

DROPS Design 28.01.2019 kl. 08:05:

Dear Carol, you continue the pattern when you increase stitches. In the pattern there are two kinds od large section in stocking stitch (4 or 5 rounds). Happy knitting!

Ginevra 21.01.2019 - 11:47:

Desidererei lavorare il modello 177-6 nella taglia L, ma con il filato Drops cotton merino. Vorrei sapere a quale taglia corrisponde questa lavorazione con il filato più spesso su indicato. Grazie!

DROPS Design 21.01.2019 kl. 14:31:

Buongiorno Ginevra. Dovrebbe fare un campione con Drops cotton merino. In base al campione, verificare se p.es le maglie della taglia M potrebbero essere sufficienti per realizzare un capo della sua misura o se necessario ricalcolare le maglie. Per ogni ulteriore aiuto, può contattare il suo rivenditore Drops di fiducia. Buon lavoro!

Martine Van Poucke 12.09.2018 - 19:40:

Bij het begin van de pas plaats je 6 markeerdraden. Voor de 3e en de 6e markeerdet brei je A2. Vervolgens ga je meerderen voor de raglan. De gemeerderde steken brei je zodra het kan ik het telpatroon. Mijn vraag is waar blijft deze A2? Is dat steeds de laatste steek voor de 3e en de 6e markeerder? Of komen de gemeerderde steken steken tussen A2 en de markeerder in? Als dat laatste het geval is in welk patroon brei je de gemeerderde steken dan? In respectievelijk A 1 en A 3?

DROPS Design 19.09.2018 kl. 18:39:

Dag Martine, De markeerdraden plaats je in

Julie 04.08.2018 - 16:43:

Bonjour n'y aurait il pas une erreur, pour moi quand on fait les diminutions sous les manches, il y a 8 diminutions mais il n'y a pas d'augmentations puisqu'elles sont compensées par les diminutions du devant

DROPS Design 06.08.2018 kl. 09:05:

Bonjour Julie, quand on diminue au milieu sous la manche, on diminue 2 m (= 1 m avant le marqueur du début du tour, 2 m end (avec le marqueur au milieu) et 1 m après le début du tour). Bon tricot!

Zubács Gézáné 09.07.2018 - 09:14:

Szeretném megkérdezni, hogy a minta diagramban a visszája sorok nincsenek rajzolva? Azt értem, hogy a színe oldal felől mutatják a szemeket, de az nem világos, hogy, ha számozva lennének, akkor 1,3,5 sorok, vagy 1,2,3, soroknak kell érteni? További kérdésem még, hogy az első 6 szaporítás minden sorban azt jelenti, hogy ott is kell ráhajtás, ami a visszája sor lenne? Köszönöm szíves válaszukat. üdvözlettel Anikó

DROPS Design 23.07.2018 kl. 01:21:

Kedves Anikó, mivel a darabot körben kötjük a körkötőtűn, a fonákoldalról nem kötünk, így a diagram minden sorát úgy kötjük, ahogy a rajzon látjuk, jobbról balra. Ha ez síkban (oda vissza haladva kötött darab lenne, akkor a leírásban benne lenne hogy a SZO-n vagy a FO-n kell-e kezdeni a minta kötését. Sikeres kézimunkázást!

Paula 16.05.2018 - 21:33:

Hallo Leider finde ich nirgendwo einen Hinweis, ob das Diagramm ( A.1 bis A.3) wie üblich von unten nach oben zu lesen/stricken ist oder von oben nach unten, wie auch der Pulli gestrickt wird. ....? \r\nAußerdem wird von Hin-und Rückreihen gesprochen obwohl in Runden gestrickt wird.

DROPS Design 17.05.2018 kl. 08:30:

Liebe Paula, der Pullover wird von oben nach unten in der Runde gestrickt, aber die letzten Reihen ganz unten werden Separat wie beschrieben in Reihen gestrickt. Diagramme lesen Sie wie üblich von unten nach oben, und jede Runde von rechts nach links - siehe auch hier. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Wendy Hawkins 28.04.2018 - 15:20:

I am very sorry but I think I have messed this question up - I cannot understand the instructions towards the end of the BODY when working from mid front to mid back and mid back to mid front . Will this not cause a split at mid front and mid back and make it longer at the sides? Please explain

DROPS Design 30.04.2018 kl. 11:47:

Dear Mrs Hawkins, when you continue over half the piece you will cast off sts at the beg of each row to shape the sides and the bottom of piece. Happy knitting!

Wendy Hawkins 28.04.2018 - 15:14:

I just posted a question but did not specify which pattern - it is drops 177-6

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