DROPS / 175 / 1

Wind Down by DROPS Design

Knitted jumper with raglan and lace pattern, worked top down in DROPS Merino Extra Fine. Sizes S - XXXL.

DROPS Design: Pattern no me-104
Yarn group B
Sizes: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
DROPS MERINO EXTRA FINE from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
400-450-500-500-550-650 g color 15, light grayish green

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLES (40 + 60 or 80 cm / 16" + 24'' or 32'') SIZE 4 mm/US 6 – or the needles needed to get 21 stitches and 28 rows stockinette stitch on 10 cm / 4'' in width and 10 cm / 4'' in height.

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 5 ft 7 in and uses size S or M. If you are making a sweater, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

100% Wool
from 4.20 $ /50g
DROPS Merino Extra Fine uni colour DROPS Merino Extra Fine uni colour 4.20 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
DROPS Merino Extra Fine mix DROPS Merino Extra Fine mix 4.20 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 33.60$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
RIDGE / GARTER STITCH (worked in the round):
1 ridge = 2 rounds. Work 1 round knit and 1 round purl.

See diagrams A.1 and A.2. The diagrams show all rows in the pattern from the right side.

Increase for raglan on each side of A.1 in each transition from the body to the sleeves. Increase 1 stitch by working 1 yarn over, on the next row work these yarn over stitches twisted knit to prevent holes. The increased stitches are worked in stockinette stitch. NOTE: The increases are different on the body and the sleeves as explained in the text.

Work until there is 1 stitch left before the marker thread. Work 1 yarn over, knit 2 (the marker thread sits between these 2 stitches) and work 1 yarn over. On the next row, work the yarn over stitches in twisted knit to prevent holes (the increased stitches are worked in stockinette stitch).

The jumper is worked in the round on circular needle. It is worked top down.

Cast on 88-92-96-100-104-108 stitches with circular needle size 4 mm / US 6 and Merino Extra Fine. Work 2 RIDGES – see description above. Continue to work as follows – from mid back: Work 8-9-10-11-12-13 stitches stockinette stitch (= half the back piece), A.1 (= 11 stitches), 6 stitches stockinette stitch (= sleeve), A.1, 16-18-20-22-24-26 stitches stockinette stitch (= front piece), A.1, 6 stitches stockinette stitch (= sleeve), A.1, 8-9-10-11-12-13 stitches stockinette stitch (= half the back piece). Continue with this pattern, AT THE SAME TIME start the increases for RAGLAN – see description above. The increases are different for the body and the sleeves:

Increase every round 0-0-0-3-5-7 times, then every 2nd round 22-25-28-31-33-35 times and every 4th round 2-2-1-0-0-0 times (in total 24-27-29-34-38-42 times).

Increase every 2nd round 18-23-28-30-28-28 times, then every 4th round 4-3-1-1-4-5 times (in total 22-26-29-31-32-33 times).

After all the increases, there are 272-304-328-360-384-408 stitches on the needle. The piece measures approx. 18-20-21-23-25-27 cm / 7"-8"-8 1/4"-9"-9 3/4"-10½" from mid front. The next round is worked as follows: Work the first 38-42-45-51-56-61 stitches, put the next 60-68-74-78-80-82 stitches on a thread (= for the sleeve), cast on 8-8-10-10-12-14 new stitches, work the next 76-84-90-102-112-122 stitches, put the next 60-68-74-78-80-82 stitches on a thread (= for the sleeve), cast on 8-8-10-10-12-14 new stitches, work the last 38-42-45-51-56-61 stitches.

= 168-184-200-224-248-272 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread in each side in the middle of the 8-8-10-10-12-14 new stitches that have been cast on. Continue working stockinette stitch across all the stitches. THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE! When the piece measures 4 cm / 1½'', increase 1 stitch on each side of the marker threads in the sides (= 4 stitches increase) – READ INCREASE TIP! Increase every 4½ cm / 1 3/4'' in total 6 times = 192-208-224-248-272-296 stitches. When the piece measures 34-34-35-35-35-35 cm / 13½"-13½"-13 3/4"-13 3/4"-13 3/4"-13 3/4" work 2 ridges, then bind off. The jumper measures a total of approx. 56-58-60-62-64-66 cm / 22''-22¾''-23 5/8''-24 3/8''-25¼''-26''.

Put the stitches from the thread back on a short circular needle/double pointed needles, in addition knit up 1 stitch in each of the 8-8-10-10-12-14 new stitches under the sleeve = 68-76-84-88-92-96 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread mid under the sleeve. THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE! Work A.2 across the middle 6 stitches under the sleeve, the rest of the stitches are worked in stockinette stitch. When the piece measures 3 cm / 1'' decrease 1 stitch on each side of A.2, decrease every 2½-1½-1½-1½-1-1 cm / 7/8"-½"-½"-½"-3/8"-3/8" in total 11-14-17-18-18-19 times, decrease by knitting 2 stitches together = 46-48-50-52-56-58 stitches. Continue with stockinette stitch and A.2 until the sleeve measures 30-28-28-26-25-23 cm / 11 3/4"-11"-11"-10 1/4"-9 3/4"-9" (shorter measurements in larger sizes due to wider neck and longer yoke), work 2 ridges. Bind off. Work the other sleeve in the same way.


All measurements in charts are in cm.

= knit
= purl
= knit 2 together
= slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1, lift the slip stitch over the knitted stitch
= 1 yarn over between 2 stitches, on the next round work yarn over knit

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 175-1) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (192)

Jutta 10.08.2020 - 10:46:

Hallo , was bedeutet: . An Rumpfteil und Ärmeln wird unterschiedlich zugenommen:

DROPS Design 10.08.2020 kl. 12:41:

Liebe Jutta, es bedeutet, daß die Raglanzunahmen an einem unterschiedlichen Rythmus am Vorder- /Rückenteil und an den Ärmeln gestrikt wird - dh es wird je nach der Größe entweder 8 Maschen pro Runde zugenommen (= Rumpfteil + Ärmel) oder nur 4 Maschen (nur Rumpfteil) zugenommen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Jutta 10.08.2020 - 10:44:

Hallo, was bedeutet:

Julie 05.08.2020 - 13:20:

1)The video for the A.1diagram show a kfb increase. A YO increase is what the instructions say. So, which is it? 2) the chart says the first and last stitch is a purl stitch. In the video I do not see any purl stitches. Again confused. Please clarify this for me? I really want to do this sweater but I have questions. Thanks

DROPS Design 05.08.2020 kl. 16:37:

Dear Julie, increases are shown with YO - see first one on 4:58) - increase as explained in pattern and as shown in video (YO are worked twisted on next round to avoid holes). The purled stitches in the video are worked the Norwegian way, it might be the reason you don't see them, but you can see how they look like. Happy knitting!

Annabelle 12.07.2020 - 06:46:

Hello! I'm confused as to how to increase on the body. The "BODY:" section says to increase once every 4 then 4.5 cm, but there's another "INCREASE AS FOLLOWS ON THE BODY:" section with another increase pattern. Help, please explain!

DROPS Design 13.07.2020 kl. 09:05:

Dear Annabelle, the section INCREASE AS FOLLOWS ON THE BODY: under RAGLAN applies to the increases for front/back piece while the next section explains how to increase for the raglan on sleeve. When you work body (after yoke is done), you then increase as explained at the beg of the pattern under INCREASE TIP: (and not anymore as under RAGLAN). Happy knitting!

Andrea Huebener 12.06.2020 - 13:18:

Ich hab diesen Pulli fertig gestrickt in Drops Sky, aber ärgerlicherweise ist das schöne, fertige Teil beim Spülen sehr entfärbt und stark eingelaufen! Ich bin sehr enttäuscht! An der ebenfalls vor Beginn der Strickarbeit angefertigten und ebenfalls gewaschenen Maschenprobe war dieses Ergebnis nicht zu erahnen gewesen :( ;( Drops Sky möchte ich nicht empfehlen.

DROPS Design 12.06.2020 kl. 15:15:

Liebe Frau Huebener, beim dunklen Farben kann es manchmal passieren, dass sie anfangs zusätzliche Farbe enthalten, den Pullover so lange ausspüllen bis das Wasser klar wird. Aber gerne können Sie sich an Ihrem DROPS Laden wenden, dort wird man Ihnen am besten helfen - Tipps zur Garnpflege lesen Sie hier damit Ihr Strickstück schön bleibt. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Anna-Maria 18.04.2020 - 17:13:

Ich habe diesen Pulli gestrickt und bin begeistert von der Passe (die sitzt auch gut), allerdings stark irritiert über die Passform des Rumpfteils. Auf den Bildern sieht es aus, als wäre der Rumpf eng anliegend geschnitten, mein Rumpfteil hat aber eine starke A-Form und sitzt bei mir gar nicht. Meine Maschenanzahl unter den Armen und unten am Saum stimmen jeweils mit den angegebenen Maschen in der Anleitung (Gr. M) überein. Was könnte ich falsch gemacht haben?

DROPS Design 20.04.2020 kl. 09:59:

Liebe Anna-Maria, dieser Pullover ist A geschnnitten, wie in der Maßskizze gezeigt und in der Anleitung erklärt. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Monica 01.04.2020 - 21:24:

Hola. Cuando remato el cuerpo con dos surcos el tejido de me vuelve hacia arriba. Que puedo hacer.?

Nicole 29.02.2020 - 23:21:

Je tricote la grandeur XL/ je débute avec 100 mailles, j’augmente 31x8 mailles pour un total de 348 mailles. Je suis sensée augmenter 34 x 1 maille sur l’entrée dos devant pour un total de 382 mailles alors que selon le patron j’en devrais avoir 360 mailles à cette étape. Donc 22 mailles de trop où est mon erreur.

DROPS Design 02.03.2020 kl. 11:49:

Bonjour Nicole, on n'augmente pas au même rythme pour le dos/le devant et pour les manches: dos&devant: 3x tous les tours + 31 fois tous les 2 tours (= 34 fois au total) et pour les manches: 30 x tous les 2 tours et 1 fois tous les 4 tours (31 fois au total). Vérifiez que vous n'avez ps augmenté 8 mailles à chaque fois. 100 m + (34x4) + (31x4) = 360 m. Bon tricot!

Camilla 22.02.2020 - 17:59:

I’ve been knitting forever. I’ve read through the pattern several times. For a new knitter all the increases and decreases can be overwhelming. I’ve been through that and found your explanation very efficient. But, I also am not sure about the detail at the raglan part. I would really appreciate some instruction to get that part started. That detail is what caught my attention. A lot nicer than the usual seam. Thank you for the pattern.

Nicole 16.02.2020 - 17:16:

Bonjour ma question est ou et comment puis-je mettre un patron en français comme le modèle 175 Merci vos modèles sont très beaux

DROPS Design 17.02.2020 kl. 09:33:

Bonjour Nicole et merci, cliquez sur le menu déroulant sous la photo et sélectionnez "français". Bon tricot!

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