DROPS / 175 / 1

Wind Down by DROPS Design

Knitted jumper with raglan and lace pattern, worked top down in DROPS Merino Extra Fine. Sizes S - XXXL.

DROPS Design: Pattern no me-104
Yarn group B
Sizes: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
DROPS MERINO EXTRA FINE from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
400-450-500-500-550-650 g colour 15, light greyish green

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLES (40 + 60 or 80 cm) SIZE 4 MM – or the needles needed to get 21 stitches and 28 rows stocking stitch on 10 cm in width and 10 cm in height.

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

100% Wool
from 3.10 £ /50g
DROPS Merino Extra Fine uni colour DROPS Merino Extra Fine uni colour 3.10 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
DROPS Merino Extra Fine mix DROPS Merino Extra Fine mix 3.10 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 24.80£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
RIDGE / GARTER STITCH (worked in the round):
1 ridge = 2 rounds. Work 1 round knit and 1 round purl.

See diagrams A.1 and A.2. The diagrams show all rows in the pattern from the right side.

Increase for raglan on each side of A.1 in each transition from the body to the sleeves. Increase 1 stitch by working 1 yarn over, on the next row work these yarn over stitches twisted knit to prevent holes. The increased stitches are worked in stocking stitch. NOTE: The increases are different on the body and the sleeves as explained in the text.

Work until there is 1 stitch left before the marker thread. Work 1 yarn over, knit 2 (the marker thread sits between these 2 stitches) and work 1 yarn over. On the next row, work the yarn over stitches in twisted knit to prevent holes (the increased stitches are worked in stocking stitch).

The jumper is worked in the round on circular needle. It is worked top down.

Cast on 88-92-96-100-104-108 stitches with circular needle size 4 mm and Merino Extra Fine. Work 2 RIDGES – see description above. Continue to work as follows – from mid back: Work 8-9-10-11-12-13 stitches stocking stitch (= half the back piece), A.1 (= 11 stitches), 6 stitches stocking stitch (= sleeve), A.1, 16-18-20-22-24-26 stitches stocking stitch (= front piece), A.1, 6 stitches stocking stitch (= sleeve), A.1, 8-9-10-11-12-13 stitches stocking stitch (= half the back piece). Continue with this pattern, AT THE SAME TIME start the increases for RAGLAN – see description above. The increases are different for the body and the sleeves:

Increase every round 0-0-0-3-5-7 times, then every 2nd round 22-25-28-31-33-35 times and every 4th round 2-2-1-0-0-0 times (in total 24-27-29-34-38-42 times).

Increase every 2nd round 18-23-28-30-28-28 times, then every 4th round 4-3-1-1-4-5 times (in total 22-26-29-31-32-33 times).

After all the increases, there are 272-304-328-360-384-408 stitches on the needle. The piece measures approx. 18-20-21-23-25-27 cm from mid front. The next round is worked as follows: Work the first 38-42-45-51-56-61 stitches, put the next 60-68-74-78-80-82 stitches on a thread (= for the sleeve), cast on 8-8-10-10-12-14 new stitches, work the next 76-84-90-102-112-122 stitches, put the next 60-68-74-78-80-82 stitches on a thread (= for the sleeve), cast on 8-8-10-10-12-14 new stitches, work the last 38-42-45-51-56-61 stitches.

= 168-184-200-224-248-272 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread in each side in the middle of the 8-8-10-10-12-14 new stitches that have been cast on. Continue working stocking stitch across all the stitches. THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE! When the piece measures 4 cm, increase 1 stitch on each side of the marker threads in the sides (= 4 stitches increase) – READ INCREASE TIP! Increase every 4½ cm in total 6 times = 192-208-224-248-272-296 stitches. When the piece measures 34-34-35-35-35-35 cm work 2 ridges, then cast off. The jumper measures a total of approx. 56-58-60-62-64-66 cm.

Put the stitches from the thread back on a short circular needle/double pointed needles, in addition knit up 1 stitch in each of the 8-8-10-10-12-14 new stitches under the sleeve = 68-76-84-88-92-96 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread mid under the sleeve. THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE! Work A.2 across the middle 6 stitches under the sleeve, the rest of the stitches are worked in stocking stitch. When the piece measures 3 cm decrease 1 stitch on each side of A.2, decrease every 2½-1½-1½-1½-1-1 cm in total 11-14-17-18-18-19 times, decrease by knitting 2 stitches together = 46-48-50-52-56-58 stitches. Continue with stocking stitch and A.2 until the sleeve measures 30-28-28-26-25-23 cm (shorter measurements in larger sizes due to wider neck and longer yoke), work 2 ridges. Cast off. Work the other sleeve in the same way.


= knit
= purl
= knit 2 together
= slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1, lift the slip stitch over the knitted stitch
= 1 yarn over between 2 stitches, on the next round work yarn over knit

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 175-1) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (181)

Geerte 05.12.2019 - 19:11:

The pattern has a nice schematic that shows the dimensions for every size, but I'm not sure what the middle line represents. Is this the waist or the bust?

DROPS Design 06.12.2019 kl. 07:58:

Hi Geerte, The mid-line is the bust measurement. Happy knitting!

Jamie 29.11.2019 - 20:13:

Hello. When separating the sleeves from the body (ie putting the sleeve stitches on a separate thread) are the pattern rows included with the sleeve or the body or both? My stitch count includes the pattern in the sleeve of the front but on the body in the back. Is this correct?

DROPS Design 02.12.2019 kl. 08:40:

Dear Jamie, some stitches of the pattern are worked for the sleeves and some for the body in all sizes: 6 sts from the pattern are coming to the back/front piece and 5 sts from the pattern are coming to the sleeve (= last 5 sts from A.1 + inc + 6 sts + inc + first 5 sts from A.1). Happy knitting!

Rosa 04.11.2019 - 15:04:

Ich würde diesen Pullover gerne mit dünnerem Sockengarn stricken, ca 420 m pro 100g, Nadelstärke 3, da mir der Pullover sost zu warm ist. Wie kann ich die Anleitung umrechnen? Danke und herzliche Grüße

DROPS Design 05.11.2019 kl. 08:30:

Liebe Rosa, leider können wir jeder Anleitung nach jedem individuellen Frage anpassen und einzelne Modelle auf individuellen Wunsch hin umrechnen. Wenn sie Hilfe damit brauchen, wenden Sie sich bitte an dem Laden wo Sie die Wolle gekauft haben, dort hilft man Ihnen gerne weiter. Viel Spaß beim stricken

Emilie 04.10.2019 - 14:49:

Takk for svar. Når jeg er ferdig med å øke, og skal begynne å felle av til armene... skal jeg fortsette på A1mønstetet, eller bare strikke rett masker?

DROPS Design 07.10.2019 kl. 08:50:

Hei Emilie. Når du er ferdig med alle økningene og erm maskene settes på en tråd, det skal legges opp nye masker under ermene, så skal det strikkes glattstrikk. Men når du skal strikke ermene strikkes det i glattstrikk og etter diagram A.2. God Fornøyelse.

Emilie 25.09.2019 - 13:38:

Hei. Jeg skal øke hver andre gang på bol i 25 omg og erme i 23 omg, men har kommet ut av tellingen. Kan jeg bare telle hull i A1? Og slutte å øke når jeg kommer til 23 og 25 hull? Og hvor mange masker skal det være på pinnen da?

DROPS Design 26.09.2019 kl. 08:46:

Emilie, ja du kan tælle hullerne :) Etter alle økninger er det 272-304-328-360-384-408 masker på omgangen. God fornøjelse!

Sandra Zinn 22.09.2019 - 01:08:

Where do I place markers or I think you call them threads? And, how many?

DROPS Design 23.09.2019 kl. 09:14:

Dear Mrs Zinn, in this pattern, we only place marker threads on body (after yoke has been worked), there will be then 2 marker threads, one on each side (= in the middle of the new stitches cast on under sleeve). For raglan increase on yoke, you can insert a marker before/after each A.1 to get a better overview of stitches (there will be then 8 markers since you work A.1 a total of 4 times in the round for the raglan lines). Happy knitting!

Nancy Giovanelli 22.08.2019 - 16:07:

Your comment contains links or forbidden words! Why do I get the above message when I ask a simple question about this pattern?

DROPS Design 23.08.2019 kl. 09:37:

Dear Mrs Giovanelli, try to reword your question, and if this happens again, please just send us a message via Facebook to let us know which words you use. Thank you, happy knitting!

Danielle 15.08.2019 - 15:29:

Thank you for answering. But that’s actually not what I needed to know. I understand where to increase for sleeves and for the body. My question is where to increase for the “raglan” which is a separate increase as per the pattern. Maybe could you give a couple rows as examples?

DROPS Design 15.08.2019 kl. 16:31:

Dear Danielle, you will increase for the raglan before and/or after A.1 as explained in the written pattern - this video should help you to vizualize how the raglan increased should be worked while working A.1. Happy knitting!

Danielle 14.08.2019 - 17:55:

I’m confused by the raglan increase. I understand the body and sleeve increases. Where should the raglan increases be? It says “each side of A1” in the transition from “body to sleeve” so am I increasing before AND after A1 (*each* side of A1)?? Am I doing that only when going from body to sleeve? Not from sleeve to body? I can’t figure out where these increases should be or how many it should be?

DROPS Design 15.08.2019 kl. 09:39:

Dear Danielle, A.1 is worked at the transition between front/back piece and each sleeve. You will increase for each sleeve at the beg of sleeve after A.1 and at the end of sleeve before next A.1 - you will increase on front/back pieces after A.1 at the beg of front/back pieces and before A.1 at the end of front/back pieces. Happy knitting!

Mary B 31.07.2019 - 22:46:

I am still incredibly confused by this pattern and I feel I must be missing something. How many times am I supposed to knit the A1 pattern? Surely it’s not just the 12 rows of the diagram. And is the space between the raglan/lace considered the “body” and “sleeves” or still the yoke”? Help!

DROPS Design 08.08.2019 kl. 11:15:

Dear Mary B, you will work A.1 a total of 4 times in the round for the raglan lines, A.1 will be then repeated in height until the yoke is done. We have some videos showing how to work some parts of this pattern. Happy knitting!

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