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  1. Free patterns
  2. Women
  3. Dresses
  4. DROPS
  5. 167
  6. 1

Beach Date by DROPS Design

Knitted DROPS dress with round yoke and lace pattern, worked top down in ”Muskat”. Size: S - XXXL.

Keywords: assembly free, dress, lace, off shoulder, round neck, round yoke, short sleeves, top down, waist shaping

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DROPS 167-1
DROPS design: Pattern no r-688
Yarn group B
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS MUSKAT from Garnstudio
550-600-650-700-800-850 g color no 05, dusty pink

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 and 80 cm / 24'' and 32'') SIZE 4 mm/US 6 - or size needed to get 21 sts x 28 rows in stockinette st = 4'' x 4'' (10 x 10 cm).
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 and 80 cm / 24'' and 32'') SIZE 3.5 mm/US 4 - for edges in garter st.

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Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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100% Cotton 		from 2.80 $ /50g
DROPS Muskat uni colour DROPS Muskat uni colour 2.80 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd 		Order
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 30.80$. Read more.

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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
GARTER ST (worked in the round):
1 ridge = 2 rounds. * K 1 round and P 1 round *, repeat from *-*.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.3. See diagram for correct size.

INCREASE TIP:
Inc 1 st by making a YO. On next round K YO twisted to avoid holes. Repeat inc alternately on right and left side of the four markers.

DECREASE TIP:
Work until 4 sts remain before marker and work: Slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso, K 4, K 2 tog = 2 sts dec. Repeat in the other side.
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DRESS:
Worked in the round, top down.

YOKE:
Cast on 126-132-138-140-146-150 sts on circular needle size 3.5 mm / US 4 with Muskat. Work 2 ridges in GARTER ST - see explanation above. Switch to circular needle size 4 mm / US 6. Insert a marker at the beg of the round. Work 1 round in stockinette st while inc 4-8-6-4-7-12 sts evenly = 130-140-144-144-153-162 sts. Then work 0-0-0-0-2-2 more rounds in stockinette st. On next round work pattern A.1 - see diagram for correct size, 13-14-16-16-17-18 repetitions on round. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE When entire A.1 has been worked vertically, piece measures 11-11-12-12-13-13 cm / 4 3/8''-4 3/8''-4¾''-4¾''-5 1/8''-5 1/8'' and there are 234-252-288-320-340-360 sts on round. Now insert 2 markers in piece which marks transition for pattern continued down the back. Work the first 12-12-12-14-14-14 sts and insert a marker here. This is now beg of round. Then insert the second marker after 49-49-49-53-53-53 sts without working them first. Now work pattern - see diagram for correct size, as follows: Work A.2 (= 49-49-49-53-53-53 sts). NOTE: Pattern in A.2 should fit over pattern A.1. I.e. st with arrow in diagram A.2 should fit over st with arrows in diagram A.1. Then work in stockinette st over the remaining sts on round AT SAME TIME inc 20-26-14-14-30-42 sts evenly over sts in stockinette st = 254-278-302-334-370-402 sts.
Work next round as follows: Work pattern as before over the first 49-49-49-53-53-53 sts, 14-17-22-25-32-38 sts in stockinette st, slip the next 50-56-58-64-68-72 sts on a stitch holder (= sleeve), cast on 8 new sts under sleeve (insert a marker in the middle of these new sts, i.e. 4 new sts on each side of marker), work the next 77-83-93-103-117-129 sts, slip the next 50-56-58-64-68-72 sts on a stitch holder for sleeve, cast on 8 new sts under sleeve (insert a marker in the middle of these sts, i.e. 4 new sts on each side of marker), work the remaining 14-17-22-25-32-38 sts on round. There are now 85-91-101-111-125-137 sts for front and back piece = 170-182-202-222-250-274 sts in total.

BODY:
NOW MEASURE THE PIECE FROM HERE. Continue pattern on the back as before, and work in stockinette st over the remaining sts on round. NOTE: Continue in stockinette st on the back when the pattern has been worked.
When piece measures 4 cm / 1½'', dec 1 st on each side of marker in each side - READ DECREASE TIP. Repeat dec every 5-5½-5½-6-6½-7 cm / 2"-2 1/4"-2 1/4"-2 3/8"-2½"-2 3/4" 3 more times = 154-166-186-206-234-258 sts. When piece measures 24-26-27-29-30-32 cm / 9½"-10 1/4"-10½"-11½"-11 3/4"-12½", insert 4 new markers in piece, beg from marker in the right side:
NOTE: Remove the 2 markers on each side of the pattern on the back piece first! Work 16-17-19-21-24-27 sts, insert 1st marker, work 45-49-55-61-69-75 sts, insert 2nd marker, work 16-17-19-21-24-27 sts, marker in left side is here, work 16-17-19-21-24-27 sts, insert 3rd marker, work 45-49-55-61-69-75 sts, insert 4th marker, work the remaining 16-17-19-21-24-27 sts until marker in the right side. Move the markers upwards when working. On next round inc 1 st before all markers (= 6 sts inc) – see INCREASE TIP. Repeat inc every 6th round 1 more time, every 4th round 12-12-12-12-9-8 times, every 6th round 2-2-2-2-4-4 times = 250-262-282-302-324-342 sts. When piece measures 62-64-65-67-68-70 cm / 24½"-25 1/4"-25½"26½"-26 3/4"-27½"', inc 2-8-6-4-0-0 sts evenly = 252-270-288-306-324-342 sts. Then work pattern A.3 (= 18 sts) 14-15-16-17-18-19 repetitions in width. When entire A,3 has been worked vertically, switch to circular needle size 3.5 mm / US 4. Work 2 ridges and bind off.

SLEEVE EDGE:
Slip sts from stitch holder back on double pointed needles size 4 mm / US 6 (= 50-56-58-64-68-72 sts). Pick up 1 st in each of the 8 new sts cast on under sleeve = 58-64-66-72-76-80 sts. Work 1 round in stockinette st while dec 4 sts evenly = 54-60-62-68-72-76 sts. Continue with 2 rounds in stockinette st. Switch to double pointed needles size 3.5 mm / US 4 and work 2 ridges. Bind off. Repeat on the edge of the other sleeve.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 30.09.2016
Correction in diagram A.1 row 29 size L (YO added).

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = K
symbols = 1 YO between 2 sts On next round K the YO to make hole.
symbols = 1 YO between 2 sts On next round K YO twisted, i.e. work in the back loop of st instead of front to avoid holes.
symbols = K 2 tog
symbols = slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso
symbols = slip 1 st as if to K, K 2 tog, psso
symbols = st with arrow in diagram A.2 should fit over st with arrow in A.1
diagram
diagram
diagram
diagram
diagram

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 167-1) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

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Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

And a very handy technical dictionary!
1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?
2) What are the yarn groups?
3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?
4) How do I use the yarn converter?
5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?
6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?
7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?
8) What is a repeat?
9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?
10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?
11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?
12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?
13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?
14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?
15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?
16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?
17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?
18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?
19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?
20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?
21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?
22) Where on the garment is the length measured?
23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (85)

country flag Jane Janse Van Rensburg wrote:

I am struggling with the rows where you have to YO between 2 stitches and then immediately slip 1, knit 1, psso. If I slip 1, knit 1, psso, I have an extra stitch, i.e. when I must have 12, I have 13 stitches. I also fail to understand how to YO between 2 stitches and then work the last knitted stitch together with the next stitch. Is there a video that I can watch somewhere that shows how to work the stitches? Or must I have extra stitches and then work half the diagram at the end of the round?

04.10.2022 - 21:43

DROPS Design answered:

Hi Jane, The YO and the psso equal each other out so you have the same number of stitches. On your second question, the knitted together stitches come before the YO (the diagram is read from right to left and the symbol is a the diagonal line which goes down from right to left). After the YO it is always psso (diagonal line which goes up from right to left). Hope this helps and happy knitting!

05.10.2022 kl. 06:56

country flag Angela Casamassima wrote:

Mi piace moltissimo questo modello ma non so lavorare dall'alto al basso. È possibile avere le spiegazioni dal basso verso l'alto? Grazie mille buonasera

20.07.2021 - 19:04

DROPS Design answered:

Ciao Angela, hai visto la lezione DROPS Come lavorare un maglione top down (dall'alto in basso)?

20.07.2021 kl. 21:46

country flag Laila Sandvold wrote:

Hei, jeg lurer på hvorfor dere ikke har omkrets str på oppskriftene deres? Dere har jo bare merket med str s- xxl, er jo ikke goldt og vite om en skal strikke L eller XL. Er det meningen at jeg må regne meg frem til riktig str, dette gjelder i allefall de oppskriftene jeg har vært og strikket og sett på. Og da må jeg regne, hadde vært fint om dere kunne legge til antatt overvidden osv. Mvh Laila Sandvold

22.06.2021 - 17:41

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Laila. Längst ner på oppskriften finns det en måleskiss med mål i cm i alla storlekar. Mvh DROPS Design

23.06.2021 kl. 07:57

country flag Birgitte Tapdrup wrote:

Bliver den ikke meget tung i 100% bomuld?

19.05.2021 - 10:59

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Birgitte. Om du ser på størrelsene ser du også hvor mye garn du trenger og da ca hvor tung kjolen vil bli. Om du velger ullgarn som f.eks DROPS Karisma, DROPS Lima vil den ha ca samme vekt. Om du velger f.eks DROPS Sky vil vekten nesten halvveres, men kjolen vil da få noe mindre formstabilitet. mvh DROPS design

19.05.2021 kl. 11:14

country flag Ana wrote:

"Now insert 2 markers in piece which marks transition for pattern continued down the back. Work the first 12-12-12-14-14-14 sts and insert a marker here. This is now beg of round. Then insert the second marker after 49-49-49-53-53-53 sts without working them first." What stitches or pattern do I work on for these "first 12 sts" and "49 sts without working them first"? Stockinette? A.2 first row? Although it states I should start A.2 afterwards? Sorry, I am very confused.

30.10.2020 - 15:40

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Ana, knit the first 12 sts of the round and insert the marker to displace the beg of round here, and now count 49 sts = do not work these stitches and insert the marker after these 49 sts. Now work from the new marker for beg of round as explained with A.2. Happy knitting!

30.10.2020 kl. 16:11

country flag Michelle wrote:

Hi I am on the increase part of the dress and am a little confused as only 4 markers get placed Work 16-17-19-21-24-27 sts, insert 1st marker, work 45-49-55-61-69-75 sts, insert 2nd marker, work 16-17-19-21-24-27 sts, marker in left side is here, work 16-17-19-21-24-27 sts, insert 3rd marker, work 45-49-55-61-69-75 sts, insert 4th marker, work the remaining 16-17-19-21-24-27 sts until marker in the right side. This only places 4 markers? where are the other 2?

17.06.2020 - 15:00

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Michelle, the other 2 markers are those you inserted on the sides (where you decerased 1 st on each side to decrease a total of 4 sts on every round). Happy knitting!

18.06.2020 kl. 09:13

country flag Lise wrote:

Noe som har strikket denne kjolen med kort erme, altså ikke bare rillekanten? Evt, ble det bra? Anbefales eller ikke? Ønsker å skjule noen stygge arr :-)

08.06.2020 - 14:08

country flag Juls wrote:

Hello, thank you for you lovely pattern and great customer care. I am working this pattern in XL. I am working the 3rd row of A.2. My question is, the 53 stitches of A. 2 remain 53 even when the pattern decreases and are filled with stockinette sts? Or do we go with the decreases (= the garment is more gathered towards the waist, but then it would not flare out again for hips)? Thanks for your time and attention!

15.05.2020 - 23:13

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Juls, when working A.2 you will decrease the number of sts of the lace pattern as shown in the diagram, but the stitches which are not drawn in the diagrams (the "decreased" lace patterns) are worked now in stocking stitch instead. You can consider that the number of sts of A.2 decreases (work as shown in diagram and remaining stitches in stocking stitch as before), or keep the 53 sts but work lace pattern only over the middle sts as shown in diagram. Happy knitting!

18.05.2020 kl. 07:14

country flag Lucy wrote:

Buongiorno all inizio della spiegazione del vestito dice lavorare 0 0 0 0 2 2 giri come dovrei proseguire visto che devo lavorare 0 giri?

17.04.2020 - 16:10

DROPS Design answered:

Buongiorno Lucy. In questo caso, passa all'istruzione successiva, quindi inizia a lavorare il diagramma A.1. Buon lavoro!

18.04.2020 kl. 09:00

country flag Annette Zwart wrote:

How do I know what is size small. I mean how many inch or centimeters is the brust and taille for this size ?

01.04.2020 - 19:01

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Zwart, measure a similar garment you have and like the shape and compare these measurements to the chart - read more here about sizing. Happy knitting!

02.04.2020 kl. 07:51

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© 1982-2023 DROPS Design A/S We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights.
What can you do with our patterns? You can share DROPS patterns online, using the pattern original picture, materials, name and number. But you are NOT ALLOWED to reproduce the complete pattern digitally in any way. Yarn stores are welcome to use the DROPS pattern database to promote the sale of our assortment. You can print out our patterns, make as many copies as you’d like. The only thing we ask is that you don't make any changes / additions to the original printed document. And that the patterns according to the DROPS philosophy are given out to the consumers for free. Editorials that wish to publish our patterns in printed books or magazines can contact us for more information. The sale of garments based on DROPS patterns is permitted as long as they are sold as single items or per order. Further commercial use of the patterns is not permitted. It has to be clearly stated that the garment is made based on a design from DROPS DESIGN. The use of clothing labels of which DROPS DESIGN forms part is conditioned by the inclusion of the following text: “A DROPS DESIGN made by …..”. The use of DROPS photos for marketing purposes/sales is only permitted in connection with the use/sale of DROPS products. The photos may not be cut or edited and the logo should be clearly visible.
We reserve the right to withdraw the permission for use of our patterns at any time, notwithstanding the reason.