DROPS / 167 / 1

Beach Date by DROPS Design

Knitted DROPS dress with round yoke and lace pattern, worked top down in ”Muskat”. Size: S - XXXL.

DROPS design: Pattern no r-688
Yarn group B
Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
DROPS MUSKAT from Garnstudio
550-600-650-700-800-850 g color no 05, dusty pink

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 and 80 cm / 24'' and 32'') SIZE 4 mm/US 6 - or size needed to get 21 sts x 28 rows in stockinette st = 4'' x 4'' (10 x 10 cm).
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 and 80 cm / 24'' and 32'') SIZE 3.5 mm/US 4 - for edges in garter st.

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Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 5 ft 7 in and uses size S or M. If you are making a sweater, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

100% Cotton
from 3.00 $ /50g
DROPS Muskat uni colour DROPS Muskat uni colour 3.00 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 33.00$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
GARTER ST (worked in the round):
1 ridge = 2 rounds. * K 1 round and P 1 round *, repeat from *-*.

See diagrams A.1 to A.3. See diagram for correct size.

Inc 1 st by making a YO. On next round K YO twisted to avoid holes. Repeat inc alternately on right and left side of the four markers.

Work until 4 sts remain before marker and work: Slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso, K 4, K 2 tog = 2 sts dec. Repeat in the other side.

Worked in the round, top down.

Cast on 126-132-138-140-146-150 sts on circular needle size 3.5 mm / US 4 with Muskat. Work 2 ridges in GARTER ST - see explanation above. Switch to circular needle size 4 mm / US 6. Insert a marker at the beg of the round. Work 1 round in stockinette st while inc 4-8-6-4-7-12 sts evenly = 130-140-144-144-153-162 sts. Then work 0-0-0-0-2-2 more rounds in stockinette st. On next round work pattern A.1 - see diagram for correct size, 13-14-16-16-17-18 repetitions on round. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE When entire A.1 has been worked vertically, piece measures 11-11-12-12-13-13 cm / 4 3/8''-4 3/8''-4¾''-4¾''-5 1/8''-5 1/8'' and there are 234-252-288-320-340-360 sts on round. Now insert 2 markers in piece which marks transition for pattern continued down the back. Work the first 12-12-12-14-14-14 sts and insert a marker here. This is now beg of round. Then insert the second marker after 49-49-49-53-53-53 sts without working them first. Now work pattern - see diagram for correct size, as follows: Work A.2 (= 49-49-49-53-53-53 sts). NOTE: Pattern in A.2 should fit over pattern A.1. I.e. st with arrow in diagram A.2 should fit over st with arrows in diagram A.1. Then work in stockinette st over the remaining sts on round AT SAME TIME inc 20-26-14-14-30-42 sts evenly over sts in stockinette st = 254-278-302-334-370-402 sts.
Work next round as follows: Work pattern as before over the first 49-49-49-53-53-53 sts, 14-17-22-25-32-38 sts in stockinette st, slip the next 50-56-58-64-68-72 sts on a stitch holder (= sleeve), cast on 8 new sts under sleeve (insert a marker in the middle of these new sts, i.e. 4 new sts on each side of marker), work the next 77-83-93-103-117-129 sts, slip the next 50-56-58-64-68-72 sts on a stitch holder for sleeve, cast on 8 new sts under sleeve (insert a marker in the middle of these sts, i.e. 4 new sts on each side of marker), work the remaining 14-17-22-25-32-38 sts on round. There are now 85-91-101-111-125-137 sts for front and back piece = 170-182-202-222-250-274 sts in total.

NOW MEASURE THE PIECE FROM HERE. Continue pattern on the back as before, and work in stockinette st over the remaining sts on round. NOTE: Continue in stockinette st on the back when the pattern has been worked.
When piece measures 4 cm / 1½'', dec 1 st on each side of marker in each side - READ DECREASE TIP. Repeat dec every 5-5½-5½-6-6½-7 cm / 2"-2 1/4"-2 1/4"-2 3/8"-2½"-2 3/4" 3 more times = 154-166-186-206-234-258 sts. When piece measures 24-26-27-29-30-32 cm / 9½"-10 1/4"-10½"-11½"-11 3/4"-12½", insert 4 new markers in piece, beg from marker in the right side:
NOTE: Remove the 2 markers on each side of the pattern on the back piece first! Work 16-17-19-21-24-27 sts, insert 1st marker, work 45-49-55-61-69-75 sts, insert 2nd marker, work 16-17-19-21-24-27 sts, marker in left side is here, work 16-17-19-21-24-27 sts, insert 3rd marker, work 45-49-55-61-69-75 sts, insert 4th marker, work the remaining 16-17-19-21-24-27 sts until marker in the right side. Move the markers upwards when working. On next round inc 1 st before all markers (= 6 sts inc) – see INCREASE TIP. Repeat inc every 6th round 1 more time, every 4th round 12-12-12-12-9-8 times, every 6th round 2-2-2-2-4-4 times = 250-262-282-302-324-342 sts. When piece measures 62-64-65-67-68-70 cm / 24½"-25 1/4"-25½"26½"-26 3/4"-27½"', inc 2-8-6-4-0-0 sts evenly = 252-270-288-306-324-342 sts. Then work pattern A.3 (= 18 sts) 14-15-16-17-18-19 repetitions in width. When entire A,3 has been worked vertically, switch to circular needle size 3.5 mm / US 4. Work 2 ridges and bind off.

Slip sts from stitch holder back on double pointed needles size 4 mm / US 6 (= 50-56-58-64-68-72 sts). Pick up 1 st in each of the 8 new sts cast on under sleeve = 58-64-66-72-76-80 sts. Work 1 round in stockinette st while dec 4 sts evenly = 54-60-62-68-72-76 sts. Continue with 2 rounds in stockinette st. Switch to double pointed needles size 3.5 mm / US 4 and work 2 ridges. Bind off. Repeat on the edge of the other sleeve.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 30.09.2016
Correction in diagram A.1 row 29 size L (YO added).


All measurements in charts are in cm.

= K
= 1 YO between 2 sts On next round K the YO to make hole.
= 1 YO between 2 sts On next round K YO twisted, i.e. work in the back loop of st instead of front to avoid holes.
= K 2 tog
= slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso
= slip 1 st as if to K, K 2 tog, psso
= st with arrow in diagram A.2 should fit over st with arrow in A.1

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 167-1) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (69)

Müller 12.07.2019 - 17:00:

Hallo, ich finde es sehr schlecht gekennzeichnet und verwirrend, daß ich in Reihe 21 mit einem Umschlag beginnen soll. Danach aber mit re M beginnen soll. Sehr Fehleranfällig die Anleitung. Wie ist es in Reihe 29? Am Anfang nur 1 Umschlag? Danach direkt immer das Triangel mit U danach?

DROPS Design 15.07.2019 kl. 08:37:

Liebe Frau Müller, oops der Umschlag wird in A.2 bei 21. Reihe gestrickt, nicht bei A.1, entschuldigung. Bei der Reihe 29 in A.1 beginnen Sie die Runde mit der letzten Maschen vorrigen Runde, der Umschlag, die letzte Masche wird dann mit den 2 ersten Maschen zusammen gestrickt und der Umschlag ist jetzt die letzte Masche der Runde, Dann stricken Sie die letzte Masche in 1 A.1 zusammen mit die 2 ersten Maschen vom nächsten A.1 usw. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Müller 12.07.2019 - 10:11:

Hallo, ich stricke das Diagramm A1 in L nun das 2. Mal. Wieder in Reihe 21 fügt sich durch die eine Rechts-M am Beginn das Triangel nicht über die anderen. Hier muß ein Fehler vorliegen. Bitte helfen Sie mir.

DROPS Design 12.07.2019 kl. 12:57:

Liebe Frau Müller, bei Reihe 21 in A.1 fangen Sie mit 1 Umschlag, beachten Sie nur daß Sie beim vorrigen Runde die richtigen Maschenanzahl haben. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Seda 07.07.2019 - 19:57:

Hello, Thanks for the beautiful dress pattern. I am making the medium size and confused about the increase part of the body. I understand that from now on there would be 48 rows and I am going to increase 4th, 6th, 8th, 12th, 16th, 18th, 20th, 24th, 28th, 30th, 32nd, 36th, 40th, 42nd, 44th, 48th rows for the medium size. Is it correct? Thank you

DROPS Design 08.07.2019 kl. 10:27:

Dear Seda, in size M you increase the 2nd time 6 rows after the first increase (= work 1st row with increase, work 5 rows, then increase 2nd time on next row), then *work 3 rows, increase on next row*, repeat from *-* a total of 12 times, then *work 5 rows, increase on next row*, repeat from *-* a total of 2 times. Happy knitting!

Jette 04.07.2019 - 09:37:

Når arb måler fx 24 cm......, hvorfra måles der?

DROPS Design 05.07.2019 kl. 12:27:

Hej Jette, jeg kan ikke finde hvor i opskriften du er... Enten måler du fra starten, eller er du kommet ned til RYG & FORSTYKKE så har vi skrevet "herfra måles arbejdet". God fornøjelse!

Jette 28.06.2019 - 11:40:

Der skal sættes 4 mærker og tages ud før mærkerne = 6 m taget ud? Hvordan hænger det sammen?

DROPS Design 04.07.2019 kl. 07:37:

Hej Jette. Du har kvar 2 mærken från BÆRESTK (de under ærmer) + 4 nye mærker. Lycka till!

Sarah 01.06.2019 - 12:51:

Where am I suppose to make the decreases when it says "When piece measures 4cm/1.5" dec 1 at n each side of the marker in the side."

DROPS Design 01.06.2019 kl. 16:38:

Dear Sarah, you should decrease directly by the marker on each side - i.e. the same marker which continue from under the sleeve. For detailed instructions how to decrease, please, see DECREASE TIP above the pattern. Happy knitting!

Sarh 17.05.2019 - 15:36:

I am still confused about the 13 repetitions and A.1. I assume that with A.1 each line is a row so does each row get worked 13 times or does the entire A.1 get worked 13 times. Also which way is A.1 supposed to be worked? I assume that you work from the arrow at the top down

DROPS Design 20.05.2019 kl. 08:56:

Dear Sarah, diagrams are read bottom up (read more here) -the arrow means something else, see diagram key. So that on the first round in A.1 there are 10 stitches and you repeat these 10 sts a total of 13 times in width = 130 sts. You will increase in the diagram, for ex. on round 3 you make 2 yo in each A.1 = there will be 12 sts in each A.1 x 13 repeats = 156 sts. And there are 18 sts on last row in A.1 x 13 = 234 sts. Happy knitting!

Sarah 14.05.2019 - 15:21:

What does it mean when it says On next round work A.1 13 repetitions on round? I understand the A.1 part, but I'm not sure about the 13 repetitions

DROPS Design 14.05.2019 kl. 16:16:

Dear Sarah, you have now 130 stitches on needle, you work A.1 all the round, ie A.1 will be repeated 13 times in the round = 10 stitches (= round 1 in A.1) x 13 times = 130 stitches. When A.1 is done, there are 18 sts in each A.1 x 13 repeats = you will have 234 stitches on needle. Happy knitting!

Sarah 10.05.2019 - 21:39:

I am slightly confused by what the directions mean when it says to "work 1 round in Stockinette st while inc 4sts evenly. Where do those four stitches get worked?

DROPS Design 11.05.2019 kl. 07:43:

Hello Sarah. You increase making sure you have the same number of stitches between the increases. I.e for size S: you have 126 sts and must increase 4 sts. You divide the n of sts by the number of inc to be made: 126 : 4 = 31,5. You then increase first time after 31 sts, 2nd time after 32, third time after 31 sts and so on. Happy knitting!

Jirina 12.02.2019 - 12:04:

Hallo, also ich hab jetzt A1 fertig und habe die erste Runde A2 gestrickt. Ich muss 50 Maschen stilllegen und dann 8 Maschen neu anschlagen. Wie muss ich das machen? Ich hab überhaupt keine Idee. Muss ich nach den 50 Maschen eine neue Wolle dran machen und 8 mal immer wieder in das selbe Loch stechen bis ich 8 Maschen habe?

DROPS Design 12.02.2019 kl. 13:36:

Liebe Jirina, dieses Video zeigt, wie man die Maschen für die Ärmel stilllegt, und wie man die neuen Maschen unter den Ärmeln anschlägt ab ca 06:55- es handelt sich um eine Raglanpasse, aber diese Technik wird auch bei Rundpasse benutzt. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

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Beach Date

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