Love Is In The Air by DROPS Design

Knitted DROPS top with lace pattern in ”Muskat”. Size: S - XXXL.

DROPS 160-24
DROPS design: Pattern no r-674
Yarn group B
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Size: S – M/L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Finished measurements:
Bust: 88-100-114-126-142 cm / 34½"-39½"-45"-49½"-55 3/4"
Full length: 67-69-71-73-75 cm / 26½"-27"-28"-28 3/4"-29½"


Materials:
DROPS MUSKAT from Garnstudio
450-500-500-550-600 g color no 06, light pink

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm / 32'') SIZE 4 mm/US 6 - or size needed to get 21 sts x 28 rows in stockinette st = 4'' x 4'' (10 x 10 cm).
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 and 80 cm / 16'' and 32'') SIZE 3.5 mm/US 4 - for garter st.

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Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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100% Cotton
from 2.20 $ /50g
DROPS Muskat uni colour DROPS Muskat uni colour 2.20 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 19.80$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth):
K all rows. 1 ridge = 2 rows K.

GARTER ST (worked in the round):
* K 1 round and P 1 round *, repeat from *-*. 1 ridge = 2 rounds.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 and A.2.

INCREASE TIP:
Work until 1 st remains before marker, 1 YO, P 2 (marker is in the middle of these sts), 1 YO = 2 sts inc. On next round P YO twisted to avoid holes.
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TOP:
Worked in the round on circular needle.
Cast on 302-342-402-430-486 sts on circular needle size 3.5 mm / US 4 with Muskat. Work 2 ridges in GARTER ST - see explanation above. Switch to circular needle size 4 mm / US 6. Then work as follows: * P 7-6-6-5-5, A.1 *, repeat from *-* 8-10-12-14-16 more times, P 7-6-6-5-5, insert 1 marker (= back piece), * P 7-6-6-5-5, A.1 *, repeat from *-* 8-10-12-14-16 more times, P 7-6-6-5-5, insert 1 marker (= front piece). Move the markers upwards when working. When A.1 has been worked 1 time vertically, there are 266-298-350-370-418 sts on needle. Then work A.2 (= 7 sts) over A.1 until finished measurements. When piece measures 10 cm / 4'', dec as follows:
* P 2 tog, P 5-4-4-3-3, A.2 *, repeat from *-* 8-10-12-14-16 more times, P 2 tog, P 5-4-4-3-3, marker, * P 2 tog, P 5-4-4-3-3, A.2 *, repeat from *-* 8-10-12-14-16 more times, P 2 tog, P 5-4-4-3-3, marker = 246-274-322-338-382 sts (20-24-28-32-36 sts dec). Continue with P and pattern as before until piece measures 13-14-14-15-15 cm / 5"-5½"-5½"-6"-6".
Then dec as follows:
* P 4-3-3-2-2, P 2 tog, A.2 *, repeat from *-* 8-10-12-14-16 more times, P 4-3-3-2-2, P 2 tog, marker, * P 4-3-3-2-2, P 2 tog, A.2 *, repeat from *-* 8-10-12-14-16 more times, P 4-3-3-2-2, P 2 tog, marker = 226-250-294-306-346 sts (20-24-28-32-36 sts dec). Continue dec (i.e. dec alternately on each side of every P section) every 3-4-4-5-5 cm / 1"-1½"-1½"-2"-2" 4-3-3-2-2 more times = 146-178-210-242-274 sts. Work next round as follows: * P 1, A.2 *, repeat from *-* 8-10-12-14-16 more times, P 1, marker, * P 1, A.2 *, repeat from *-* 8-10-12-14-16 more times, P 1, marker. Continue with this pattern. When piece measures 30 cm / 11 3/4'', inc 1 st on each side of each marker (= 4 sts inc) - READ INCREASE TIP! Work inc sts P. Repeat inc every 1½-2-2½-3½-3½ cm / ½"-3/4"-7/8"-1 1/4"-1 1/4" 9-7-6-5-5 more times = 186-210-238-266-298 sts. When piece measures 46-47-48-49-50 cm / 18"-18½"-19"-19 1/4"-19 3/4", work in garter st over 7 sts on each side of marker in each side (= 14 sts in garter st in each side), work the other sts as before.
When piece measures 48-49-50-51-52 cm / 19"-19 1/4"-19 3/4"-20"-20½", work only over the first 93-105-119-133-149 sts on round (= back piece), slip sts for front piece on a stitch holder.

BACK PIECE:
= 93-105-119-133-149 sts. Now work piece back and forth. Bind off 4 sts at beg of next 2 rows for armholes = 85-97-111-125-141 sts. Then bind off for armhole inside 3 sts in garter st, dec 1 st in each side on every other row 4-10-16-23-29 times, dec by P 2 tog (when dec goes over into A.2 dec with K 2 tog, work the sts that do not fit the pattern in stockinette st) = 77-77-79-79-83 sts. When piece measures 65-67-69-71-73 cm / 25½"-26½"-27"-28"-28 3/4", slip the middle 31-33-35-37-39 sts on a stitch holder for neck and finish each shoulder separately = 23-22-22-21-22 sts. On next row from neck, K the first 2 sts tog = 22-21-21-20-21 sts. Work sts in the side that do not fit A.2 in stockinette st. Continue to work A.2, P sts and in stockinette st as before. When piece measures 66-68-70-72-74 cm / 26"-26 3/4"-27½"-28½"-29", work 1 ridge in garter st over all sts, then bind off. Work the other shoulder the same way.

FRONT PIECE:
= 93-105-119-133-149 sts. Now work piece back and forth. Work as on back piece until piece measures 57-59-61-63-65 cm / 22½"-23 1/4"-24"-24 3/4"-25½". Now slip the middle 21-23-25-27-29 sts on a stitch holder for neck and finish each shoulder separately. Then bind off on every other row towards neck as follows: 2 sts 2 times and 1 st 2 times. Continue with bind off for armhole, when all dec are done, there are 22-21-21-20-21 sts on needle. Work sts in the side that do not fit A.2 in stockinette st. Continue to work A.2, P sts and in stockinette st as before. When piece measures 66-68-70-72-74 cm / 26"-26 3/4"-27½"-28½"-29", work 1 ridge (see explanation above) in garter st over all sts, then bind off. Work the other shoulder the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the shoulder seams.

NECK EDGE:
Pick up 100-120 sts (includes sts on stitch holder for neck) on circular needle size 3.5 mm / US 4 with Muskat. Work 2 ridges. Bind off.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = K from RS, P from WS
symbols = 1 YO between 2 sts
symbols = slip 1 st as if to K, K 2 tog, psso
diagram

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 160-24) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

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Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (100)

country flag Mary wrote:

Hi, I am knitting the front piece and I am stuck on the instruction "Then cast off on every other row towards neck as follows: 2 sts 2 times and 1 st 2 times". What does "2 sts 2 times and 1 st 2 times" mean?

02.06.2022 - 15:16

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mary, This means you have to cast off at the beginning of every row from the neck towards shoulder (= from RS on right shoulder / from WS on left shoulder): 2 stitches 2 times (= 2 rows with cast off = 4 sts cast off in total) + 1 stitch only at the beginning the next 2 rows from the neck towards shoulder (= 2 rows with cast off = 2 sts cast off in total). Happy knitting!

02.06.2022 kl. 17:32

country flag Petra Simonidesová wrote:

Dobrý den, pletla jsem tento vzor a vše mi sedělo. Pletu velikost S, teď jsem začala ubírat na náramenice a mám pocit, že úplně nechápu tu závorku. (když ujímání zasahuje do vzoru A.2, ujímáme spletením 2 ok hladce; oka, která nezapadají do vzoru, pleteme lícovým žerzejem) Nepochopila jsem, kdy ujímání zasahuje do vzoru A2, protože mám ujmout 4x a mezi ujímanými oky a prvním vzorem A2 jsou 3 oka obratce.

04.08.2021 - 21:10

country flag Wenche Gabrielsen wrote:

Hei. Fantastisk modell!! Jeg er kommet til A2. Første pinne. Skal det strikkes: 1 kast, 2r, 1 m av, 2sm, 2r, 1kast, sånn at når en repeterer mønsteret, så blir det to kast etterhverandre? Eller bare ett kast? Skjønner de andre radene i A2, men ikke akkurat dette… det er jo ikke likt instruksjonsbilde… da bildet viser kastet mellom to masker, som i radene over, men ikke første. Ha ha, er litt grønn på dette.

07.07.2021 - 09:04

country flag Annicka wrote:

Hej! Jag skulle behöva sticka modellen kortare. Hur gör jag då? Mvh Annicka

11.04.2021 - 23:04

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Annicka, du starter med udtagningerne efter taljen ved 30 cm. Hvis du vil strikke den kortere, så kan du forkorte det første stykke inden de 30 cm. Vi kan desværre ikke hjælpe dig med at skrive opskriften om :)

12.04.2021 kl. 13:37

country flag Zsuzsa wrote:

Thank you, it makes sense now! :) I have read it in 3 languages (german, english and hungarian), but it seems I misunderstood all versions.

19.09.2020 - 13:41

country flag Zsuzsa wrote:

Hi, I am knitting the smallest size. And you wrote in the description, that repeat 8 times 7P + A.1 (each front and back). And in the comments you wrote: "You have 9 repeats of 7 stitches + A.1" Are you still sure that the pattern is correct? Beautiful pattern, btw :)

18.09.2020 - 12:48

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Zsuzsa, sure it is :) Pattern says: ... * P 7-6-6-5-5, A.1 *, repeat from *-* 8-10-12-14-16 more times... = this means you will work P7, A.1 a total of 9 times. Happy knitting!

18.09.2020 kl. 13:23

country flag Véronique wrote:

Bonjour, je viens de me lancer sur ce modèle et je suis embêtée car le nombre de mailles ne correspond pas. Je fais la taille xl, j'ai donc 402 mailles, et quand je fais la première ligne après les cotes, je me retrouve avec 30 mailles de trop. Je fais 6m env + A1 ( 9m) ceci 12 fois + 6m env avant le marqueur, ce qui fait 186 m. Ceci est répété une deuxième fois, ce qui fait 372 m. Je fais quoi des 30 mailles en trop ? Merci pour votre aide

08.04.2020 - 17:04

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Véronique, vous devez répéter de *-* encore 12 fois autrement dit 13 fois au total, vous aurez ainsi vos 402 mailles: (6 m env, A.1) x 13 = 195 + 6 m env = 201 m pour le dos et (6 m env, A.1) x 13 + 6 = 201 m pour le devant. Bon tricot!

09.04.2020 kl. 17:01

country flag Janice wrote:

Hi! My bust measurement falls right in between S and M (I am 94 cm), which size should I choose? Any modifications to needle size to help with this, I don't want the top to be too large or too tight. Thank you kindly!

06.04.2020 - 05:36

DROPS Design answered:

Hi Janice, If you choose the larger size, you can try working with a 1/2 size or a size smaller needle. If you choose the smaller size then a larger needle size would help. Happy knitting!

06.04.2020 kl. 07:47

country flag Evelien Steur wrote:

Hiya, when you are starting A.2 do you work the 7 stitches repeat or do you do the 7 stitches and then the 6 P.? Just very confused about that part. Because If I work 7 stitches I have 2 stitches in the section of the 6 P. Is that right or? Please help me I would love to continue this pattern

05.04.2020 - 15:46

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Steur, after you have worked the first round with P2 tog at the beg of P-sections, continue A.2 as in diagram and work the P stitches P as before - in size S you will have now P6 between each A.2 (after 10 cm) Happy knitting!

09.04.2020 kl. 13:52

country flag Carole Watson wrote:

"Love is in the Air" pattern: I am knitting smallest size. It says cast on 302 stitches. After 2 garter stitich rows, the repeated pattern uses 270 stitches, but there are 302 stitches in the round so I am left with a spare 32 stitches. Have I misunderstood something? Instuctions: p7, A1 pattern(=9 stitches) - this repeat is 16 stitches x 8 times (128 stitches), p7 - total number of stitches for back 135 stitches,which is repeated once more for front. TOTAL 270 ???

29.02.2020 - 01:53

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Carole. the pattern is correct. You have 9 repeats of 7 stitches + A.1 (=9 stitches) for the front and 9 repeats of 7 stitches + A.1 (= 9 stitches) for the back. That is, 16 (which is 7+9) x9 + 7 ( see the pattern, it's for making it symmetrical )+ 16x9 +7= 302 stitches. Happy knitting!

29.02.2020 kl. 23:25

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