DROPS / 164 / 16

Sea Glass by DROPS Design

Crochet DROPS jacket worked in a circle with lace pattern in ”Merino Extra Fine”. Size: S - XXXL.

DROPS design: Pattern no me-080
Yarn group B
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Size: S/M – L/XL – XXL/XXXL

Materials:
DROPS MERINO EXTRA FINE from Garnstudio
700-850-950 g color no 23, gray blue

DROPS CROCHET Hook size 5 mm / H/8 – or size needed to get 14 dc = width 10 cm / 4''.

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Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 5 ft 7 in and uses size S or M. If you are making a sweater, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
CROCHET INFO:
Beg every round with dc with 3 ch and finish with 1 sl st in 3rd ch at beg of round, ch does not replace first dc.
Beg every dc row with 3 ch.

DECREASE TIP:
Dec 1 dc by working the next 2 dc tog as follows: Work 1 dc but wait with last pull through (= 2 sts on hook), then work next dc but on last pull through, pull yarn through all 3 sts on hook.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1-A.10. Diagram A.8 shows how round beg and ends. NOTE: In diagram A.2-A.4, A.6 and A.10 first round in diagram is last round on previous diagram, it is not worked but shows how to continue.
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CIRCLE:
Work 5 ch on hook size 5 mm / H/8 with Merino Extra Fine and form 1 ring with 1 sl st in first ch. Then work A.1 as follows:

ROUND 1: Work 3 ch - READ CROCHET INFO, 12 dc in ch-ring, finish with 1 sl st in 3rd ch.
ROUND 2: Work 2 dc in back loop of every dc = 24 dc.
ROUND 3: Work * 2 dc in back loop of first/next dc, 1 dc in back loop of next dc *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 36 dc. REMEMBER THE CROCHET GAUGE!

Then work A.2 6 times in total on round. NOTE: A.8 in same diagram shows how every round beg and ends. Note if dc is worked in back loop, in or around st (applies for all diagrams). When A.2 has been worked 1 time vertically, there are 96 dc and 24 ch on round (= 120 sts in total). Piece measures approx. 28 cm / 11'' in diameter. Then work A.3 12 times in total on round. When 2-3-4 rounds of A.3 have been worked (circle measures approx. 36-38-40 cm / 14 1/4"-15"-15 3/4" in diameter), there are 156-168-192 sts on round (= 156-168-96 dc and 0-0-96 ch). Now work armholes in the different sizes:

SIZE S/M:
Round now deviates from diagram because of armhole. Work as follows:
Work 3rd round in A.3 as follows (all dc on this round are worked in back loop of dc): Work ch 3, * 2 dc in first dc, 1 dc in each of the next 8 dc *, repeat from *-* 4 more times, 26 ch, skip 26 dc (= armhole), repeat from *-* 6 times in total, 1 dc in each of the next 5 dc AT THE SAME TIME inc 1 dc, 26 ch, skip 26 dc (= armhole), finish with 1 sl st in 3rd ch at beg of round = 116 dc (= 26 ch for each sleeve, 168 sts in total).
Work 4th round in A.3 as follows (all dc worked in dc, are worked in back loop on this round): Work ch 3, ** 1 dc in first/next dc/ch, ch 1, * 1 dc in next dc/ch, ch 1, skip 1 dc/ch *, repeat from *-* 4 more times, 1 dc in next dc/ch, ch 1, 1 dc in next dc/ch, ch 1, skip 1 dc/ch **, repeat from **-** 11 more times, work like this over ch-spaces (= sleeve) too, finish with 1 sl st in 3rd ch at beg of round = 96 dc and 96 ch (= 192 sts in total). Then work A.3 as before. When A.3 has been worked 1 time vertically, there are 192 dc on round. Then work A.4 24 times in total on round.

SIZE L/XL:
Round now deviates from diagram because of armhole. Work as follows:
Work 4th round in A.3 as follows (all dc worked in dc, are worked in back loop on this round): Work ch 3, ** 1 dc in first/next dc, ch 1, * 1 dc in next dc, ch 1, skip 1 dc *, repeat from *-* 4 more times, 1 dc in next dc, ch 1, 1 dc in next dc, ch 1, skip 1 dc **, repeat from **-** 2 more times, work 1 dc in next dc, ch 1, 1 dc in next dc, ch 1, skip 1 dc, 1 dc in next dc, ch 1, skip 1 dc, 1 dc in next dc, work 28 ch, skip 28 dc (= armhole), repeat from **-** 4 times in total, work 1 dc in next dc, ch 1, 1 dc in next dc, ch 1, skip 1 dc, 1 dc in next dc, * ch 1, skip 1 dc, 1 dc in next dc *, repeat from *-* 1 more time, work 28 ch, skip 28 dc (= armhole), finish with 1 sl st in 3rd ch at beg of round = 65 dc and 119 ch (= 28 ch for each sleeve, 184 sts in total).
Work 5th round in A.3 as follows (all dc worked in dc, are worked in back loop on this round): Work 1 dc in every dc and 1 dc in every ch. Over ch-space for each sleeve work as follows: Work * 1 dc in each of the first ch 6, 2 dc in next ch *, repeat from *-* 3 more times, finish with 1 sl st in 3rd ch at beg of round = 192 dc. Continue working diagram A.3. When A.3 has been worked 1 time vertically, there are 192 dc on round. Then work A.4 24 times in total on round.

SIZE XXL/XXXL:
Round now deviates from diagram because of armhole. Work as follows:
Work 5th round in A.3 as follows (all dc worked in dc, are worked in back loop on this round): Work ch 3, * 1 dc in first/next dc, 1 dc around next ch *, repeat from *-* 24 more times, 1 dc in next dc, 30 ch, skip 15 dc and 15 ch (= 30 sts in total) for armhole, * work 1 dc around next ch, 1 dc in next dc *, repeat from *-* 39 more times, 1 dc around next ch, 30 ch, skip the last 15 dc and 15 ch (= armhole), finish with 1 sl st in 3rd ch at beg of round = 132 dc and 30 ch for each sleeve (= 192 sts in total). Then work A.4 24 times in total on round. Work first round as follows: Work ch 3, * ch 3, skip 3 dc/ch, 1 dc in next dc/ch, ch 3, skip 3 dc/ch, 1 dc in next dc/ch *, repeat from *-* 23 more times, work like this over ch-spaces (= sleeves) too, finish with 1 sl st in 3rd ch at beg of round = 48 ch-spaces.

ALL SIZES:
When A.4 has been worked 1 time vertically, there are 240 dc on round. Piece measures approx. 54 cm / 21 1/4'' in diameter. Then work A.5 24 times in total on round. When A.5 has been worked 1 time vertically, there are 336 dc on round. Piece measures approx. 76 cm / 30'' in diameter. Then work A.6 42 times in total on round AT THE SAME TIME on last round of A.6 inc 2 dc evenly by working 2 dc in same dc. When A.6 has been worked 1 time vertically, there are 380 dc on round. Then work A.5 38 times in total on round as follows in the different sizes:

SIZE S/M:
Work 5 rounds of A.5 = 494 dc. Then work 1 dc in back loop of every dc AT THE SAME TIME inc 42 dc evenly (inc approx. 1 dc in every 12th dc) = 536 dc on round. Piece now measures approx. 110 cm / 43½'' in diameter. Then work A.6 67 times in total on round. Fasten off when the first 2 rounds of A.6 have been worked. Piece measures approx. 114 cm / 45'' in diameter.

SIZE L/XL:
Work A.5. When A.5 has been worked 1 time vertically, there are 532 dc on round. Then work 1 dc in back loop of every dc AT THE SAME TIME inc 36 dc evenly (inc approx. 1 dc in every 15th dc) = 568 dc. Piece measures approx. 118 cm / 46½'' in diameter. Then work A.6 71 times in total on round. Fasten off when the first 2 rounds of A.6 have been worked. Piece measures approx. 122 cm / 48'' in diameter.

SIZE XXL/XXXL:
Work A.5. When A.5 has been worked 1 time vertically, there are 532 dc on round. Then work 1 dc in back loop of every dc AT THE SAME TIME inc 36 dc evenly (inc approx. 1 dc in every 15th dc) = 568 dc. Piece measures approx. 118 cm / 46½'' in diameter. Then work A.6 71 times in total on round. When A.6 has been worked 1 time vertically, there are 639 dc on round. Piece measures approx. 125 cm / 49'' in diameter. Work 1 round with 1 dc in back loop of every dc AT THE SAME TIME inc 9 dc evenly = 648 dc. Work A.6 81 times in total on round. Fasten off when the first 2 rounds of A.6 have been worked. Piece measures approx. 130 cm / 51½'' in diameter.

SLEEVE:
Worked back and forth, top down. First work a sleeve cap. Work A.7 - remember CROCHET INFO. When A.7 has been worked 1 time, there are 25 dc on round. Fasten off. Work 14-16-18 loose ch, then work 1 dc in every dc from A.7, finish with 17-19-21 ch (includes 3 ch to turn with). Insert 1 marker in piece, NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE. Work 1 dc in 4th ch from hook, 1 dc in each of the next 13-15-17 ch, 1 dc in every dc, 1 dc in every ch = 53-57-61 dc. Then work 1 dc in every dc. When piece measures 4 cm / 1½'', dec 1 dc in each side of piece by working the first 2 dc tog and the last 2 dc tog (= 2 dc dec) – SEE DECREASE TIP! Repeat dec every 3-3-3½ cm / 1"-1"-1 1/4" 10-10-9 more times = 31-35-41 dc. When piece measures 38-39-40 cm / 15"-15 1/4"-15 3/4", work piece in the round as follows: Work A.9 6-7-8 times in total on round AT THE SAME TIME on first round dec 1-0-1 dc = 30-35-40 dc. On last round in A.9 dec 2-3-4 dc evenly = 28-32-36 dc. Then work A.10 7-8-9 times in total on round. Fasten off when A.10 has been worked 1 time vertically. Piece measures approx. 63-64-65 cm / 24 3/4"-25 1/4"-25½" in total. Work another sleeve the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew sleeves into circle in outer loop of edge sts. Sew underarm seam.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

= ch
= sc in dc
= sc in middle dc
= sc around ch-space
= dc in back loop of st
= dc around ch-space/ring
= dc in both loops
= beg round with 3 ch and finish with 1 sl st in 3rd ch
= beg round with 1 ch and finish with 1 sl st in first ch
= 1 sc around ch, ch 3, 1 sc around same ch
= 7 dc around ch-space
= 7 dc in sc
= work 1 tr in back loop of st but wait with last pull through (= 2 sts on hook), work 1 tr in each of the next 3 sts the same way, pull yarn through all 5 sts on hook
= 5 dc in middle ch
= beg every round with 4 ch and finish with 1 sl st in 4th ch.
= ch 5, 1 sl st in first ch
= ch 3, 1 sl st in first ch
= work 2 dc in same dc
= last round on previous diagram, this round has already been worked





Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 164-16) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (155)

Annie Conrad 01.03.2020 - 03:53:

I’m on size S/M. The sentence that starts with Work ch 3, * 2 dc in first dc, 1dc in each of the next 8 dc *, repeat from *-* 4 more times, 26 ch, skip 26 dc, repeat from *-* 6 times in total, ... is confusing. Repeat the 10 dc 4 more times? 26 ch, skip 26 dc repeated 6 times? But what is attached to the garment between the sets of 26? Help!

DROPS Design 02.03.2020 kl. 11:43:

Dear Mrs Conrad, you repeat from *-* 4 more times (= 5 times) and later a total of 6 times ie you will repeat the repeat with stars: *2 dc in first dc, 1 dc in each of the next 8 dc* a total of 5-6 times = there will be 10 sts x 5-6 (over 9 stsx5-6 sts). Happy crocheting!

Sheila Dempsey 06.02.2020 - 02:44:

So I’m only adding 2 stitches in the entire round? Or 2 in each of the 42 sections so a total of 84 increases?

DROPS Design 06.02.2020 kl. 10:39:

Dear Mrs Dempsey, you increase only 2 stitches in the round, you are repeating 42 times A.6 (= 9 sts on last round) = 378 sts + 2 sts increased = 380 sts. Happy crocheting!

Sheila Dempsey 05.02.2020 - 03:29:

I am about to start A-6. The otter. Says to work A-6 42 times and AT THE SAME TIME of last round increase 2dc evenly by working 2dc in same dc. Does this mean to do a dc in EVERY dc in the round? I don’t understand when to do the inc.

DROPS Design 05.02.2020 kl. 08:29:

Dear Mrs Dempsey, you will find how to increase evenly here - simply crochet 1 more stitch than shown in diagram on 2 different places (there is no double crochet on previous round). Happy crocheting!

Alice 10.12.2019 - 05:08:

I made this sweater a few years ago, and this was my first time wearing it. Also my first time seeing the written pattern. I am trying to make it again, but for my 15 month old granddaughter. I Love this pattern!

Donni Alvarenga 31.10.2019 - 02:49:

I am not understanding how the sleeve is done. Once I fasten off A7, I'm not sure where the 18 chain goes? Nor how we get to over 50 double crochet. I am missing something. Do you have an photos of how the sleeves look as you work them?

DROPS Design 04.11.2019 kl. 13:57:

Dear Mrs Alvarenga, after you cut the yarn after A.7, start the next row crocheting 18 chains, then work 1 double crochet over the 25 stitches of last row in A.7 and crochet 21 chains, turn, and crochet next row with 1 dc in 4th ch from hook, 1 dc in each of the next 17 chains (= 18 dc before the 25 sts), 1 dc in each of the next 25, 1 dc in each of the 18 ch = 18+25+18= 61 double crochets. Happy crocheting!

Cindy 30.10.2019 - 21:11:

I fell in love with this pattern. However, I don't know how to get from A2 sec 1 of 6 to sec 2 and so on? Thank you fir this beautiful pattern.

DROPS Design 04.11.2019 kl. 13:52:

Dear Cindy, this should help you to figure out how to read crochet diagrams. Happy crocheting!

Sandra 05.09.2019 - 23:47:

I read what you said about the sleeve but im still confused. where do you start doing the double stitches for the sleeve, is it on the chain you make , or do i chain from a7, or what ? help pleaseeeeee.

DROPS Design 06.09.2019 kl. 08:24:

Dear Sandra, sleeves are worked separately from body; you first crochet A.7 = 3 chains, 1 sl st in 1st ch then work back and forth following diagram: on 1st row you work 7 dc in the chain-ring, then on 2nd row you work (2 dc in 1st dc, 1 dc in next dc) x 3 and finish with 2 dc in last dc, continue like this working A.7 back and forth. Happy crocheting!

Sandra 01.09.2019 - 21:46:

When do you start working under the sleeve whole section

DROPS Design 02.09.2019 kl. 11:02:

Dear Sandra, I'm afraid I don't get your question here. Sleeves are worked separately from body (circle) back and forth with a seam. For the section after armhole (chains) have been worked, see previous answers. Happy crocheting!

Sandra 31.08.2019 - 21:04:

Does a4 go under arm hole or over?

DROPS Design 02.09.2019 kl. 10:16:

Dear Sandra, you will work A.4 over the last row in A.3 = in the stitches from A.3 + in the chain-spaces for amrholes (so that there are 2 holes for each sleeve). Happy crocheting!

Sandra 30.08.2019 - 18:00:

Ok I am having issues with the last part of the xxl size chart. It says to work a4 24 times but the arm holes are on that row. So what do I do?

DROPS Design 02.09.2019 kl. 08:29:

Dear Sandra, you work the 5th row in A.3 shaping the armholes at the same time, then on next round, work A.4, ie repeat diagram a total of 24 times in width in the round , ie in the stitches from 5th row on A.3 as well as over the ch-spaces for the armholes = there are 48 ch-spaces in total at the end of 1st row in A.4. Work A.4 1 time in height. Happy crocheting!

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