DROPS / 164 / 16

Sea Glass by DROPS Design

Crochet DROPS jacket worked in a circle with lace pattern in ”Merino Extra Fine”. Size: S - XXXL.

  • Sea Glass / DROPS 164-16 - Crochet DROPS jacket worked in a circle with lace pattern in ”Merino Extra Fine”. Size: S - XXXL.
  • Sea Glass / DROPS 164-16 - Crochet DROPS jacket worked in a circle with lace pattern in ”Merino Extra Fine”. Size: S - XXXL.
  • Sea Glass / DROPS 164-16 - Crochet DROPS jacket worked in a circle with lace pattern in ”Merino Extra Fine”. Size: S - XXXL.
  • Sea Glass / DROPS 164-16 - Crochet DROPS jacket worked in a circle with lace pattern in ”Merino Extra Fine”. Size: S - XXXL.
DROPS design: Pattern no me-080
Yarn group B
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Size: S/M – L/XL – XXL/XXXL

Materials:
DROPS MERINO EXTRA FINE from Garnstudio
700-850-950 g color no 23, gray blue

DROPS CROCHET Hook size 5 mm / H/8 – or size needed to get 14 dc = width 10 cm / 4''.

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 5 ft 7 in and uses size S or M. If you are making a sweater, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

100% Wool
from 4.20 $ /50g
DROPS Merino Extra Fine uni colour DROPS Merino Extra Fine uni colour 4.20 $ /50g
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DROPS Merino Extra Fine mix DROPS Merino Extra Fine mix 4.20 $ /50g
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needles DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 58.80$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
CROCHET INFO:
Beg every round with dc with 3 ch and finish with 1 sl st in 3rd ch at beg of round, ch does not replace first dc.
Beg every dc row with 3 ch.

DECREASE TIP:
Dec 1 dc by working the next 2 dc tog as follows: Work 1 dc but wait with last pull through (= 2 sts on hook), then work next dc but on last pull through, pull yarn through all 3 sts on hook.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1-A.10. Diagram A.8 shows how round beg and ends. NOTE: In diagram A.2-A.4, A.6 and A.10 first round in diagram is last round on previous diagram, it is not worked but shows how to continue.
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CIRCLE:
Work 5 ch on hook size 5 mm / H/8 with Merino Extra Fine and form 1 ring with 1 sl st in first ch. Then work A.1 as follows:

ROUND 1: Work 3 ch - READ CROCHET INFO, 12 dc in ch-ring, finish with 1 sl st in 3rd ch.
ROUND 2: Work 2 dc in back loop of every dc = 24 dc.
ROUND 3: Work * 2 dc in back loop of first/next dc, 1 dc in back loop of next dc *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 36 dc. REMEMBER THE CROCHET GAUGE!

Then work A.2 6 times in total on round. NOTE: A.8 in same diagram shows how every round beg and ends. Note if dc is worked in back loop, in or around st (applies for all diagrams). When A.2 has been worked 1 time vertically, there are 96 dc and 24 ch on round (= 120 sts in total). Piece measures approx. 28 cm / 11'' in diameter. Then work A.3 12 times in total on round. When 2-3-4 rounds of A.3 have been worked (circle measures approx. 36-38-40 cm / 14 1/4"-15"-15 3/4" in diameter), there are 156-168-192 sts on round (= 156-168-96 dc and 0-0-96 ch). Now work armholes in the different sizes:

SIZE S/M:
Round now deviates from diagram because of armhole. Work as follows:
Work 3rd round in A.3 as follows (all dc on this round are worked in back loop of dc): Work ch 3, * 2 dc in first dc, 1 dc in each of the next 8 dc *, repeat from *-* 4 more times, 26 ch, skip 26 dc (= armhole), repeat from *-* 6 times in total, 1 dc in each of the next 5 dc AT THE SAME TIME inc 1 dc, 26 ch, skip 26 dc (= armhole), finish with 1 sl st in 3rd ch at beg of round = 116 dc (= 26 ch for each sleeve, 168 sts in total).
Work 4th round in A.3 as follows (all dc worked in dc, are worked in back loop on this round): Work ch 3, ** 1 dc in first/next dc/ch, ch 1, * 1 dc in next dc/ch, ch 1, skip 1 dc/ch *, repeat from *-* 4 more times, 1 dc in next dc/ch, ch 1, 1 dc in next dc/ch, ch 1, skip 1 dc/ch **, repeat from **-** 11 more times, work like this over ch-spaces (= sleeve) too, finish with 1 sl st in 3rd ch at beg of round = 96 dc and 96 ch (= 192 sts in total). Then work A.3 as before. When A.3 has been worked 1 time vertically, there are 192 dc on round. Then work A.4 24 times in total on round.

SIZE L/XL:
Round now deviates from diagram because of armhole. Work as follows:
Work 4th round in A.3 as follows (all dc worked in dc, are worked in back loop on this round): Work ch 3, ** 1 dc in first/next dc, ch 1, * 1 dc in next dc, ch 1, skip 1 dc *, repeat from *-* 4 more times, 1 dc in next dc, ch 1, 1 dc in next dc, ch 1, skip 1 dc **, repeat from **-** 2 more times, work 1 dc in next dc, ch 1, 1 dc in next dc, ch 1, skip 1 dc, 1 dc in next dc, ch 1, skip 1 dc, 1 dc in next dc, work 28 ch, skip 28 dc (= armhole), repeat from **-** 4 times in total, work 1 dc in next dc, ch 1, 1 dc in next dc, ch 1, skip 1 dc, 1 dc in next dc, * ch 1, skip 1 dc, 1 dc in next dc *, repeat from *-* 1 more time, work 28 ch, skip 28 dc (= armhole), finish with 1 sl st in 3rd ch at beg of round = 65 dc and 119 ch (= 28 ch for each sleeve, 184 sts in total).
Work 5th round in A.3 as follows (all dc worked in dc, are worked in back loop on this round): Work 1 dc in every dc and 1 dc in every ch. Over ch-space for each sleeve work as follows: Work * 1 dc in each of the first ch 6, 2 dc in next ch *, repeat from *-* 3 more times, finish with 1 sl st in 3rd ch at beg of round = 192 dc. Continue working diagram A.3. When A.3 has been worked 1 time vertically, there are 192 dc on round. Then work A.4 24 times in total on round.

SIZE XXL/XXXL:
Round now deviates from diagram because of armhole. Work as follows:
Work 5th round in A.3 as follows (all dc worked in dc, are worked in back loop on this round): Work ch 3, * 1 dc in first/next dc, 1 dc around next ch *, repeat from *-* 24 more times, 1 dc in next dc, 30 ch, skip 15 dc and 15 ch (= 30 sts in total) for armhole, * work 1 dc around next ch, 1 dc in next dc *, repeat from *-* 39 more times, 1 dc around next ch, 30 ch, skip the last 15 dc and 15 ch (= armhole), finish with 1 sl st in 3rd ch at beg of round = 132 dc and 30 ch for each sleeve (= 192 sts in total). Then work A.4 24 times in total on round. Work first round as follows: Work ch 3, * ch 3, skip 3 dc/ch, 1 dc in next dc/ch, ch 3, skip 3 dc/ch, 1 dc in next dc/ch *, repeat from *-* 23 more times, work like this over ch-spaces (= sleeves) too, finish with 1 sl st in 3rd ch at beg of round = 48 ch-spaces.

ALL SIZES:
When A.4 has been worked 1 time vertically, there are 240 dc on round. Piece measures approx. 54 cm / 21 1/4'' in diameter. Then work A.5 24 times in total on round. When A.5 has been worked 1 time vertically, there are 336 dc on round. Piece measures approx. 76 cm / 30'' in diameter. Then work A.6 42 times in total on round AT THE SAME TIME on last round of A.6 inc 2 dc evenly by working 2 dc in same dc. When A.6 has been worked 1 time vertically, there are 380 dc on round. Then work A.5 38 times in total on round as follows in the different sizes:

SIZE S/M:
Work 5 rounds of A.5 = 494 dc. Then work 1 dc in back loop of every dc AT THE SAME TIME inc 42 dc evenly (inc approx. 1 dc in every 12th dc) = 536 dc on round. Piece now measures approx. 110 cm / 43½'' in diameter. Then work A.6 67 times in total on round. Fasten off when the first 2 rounds of A.6 have been worked. Piece measures approx. 114 cm / 45'' in diameter.

SIZE L/XL:
Work A.5. When A.5 has been worked 1 time vertically, there are 532 dc on round. Then work 1 dc in back loop of every dc AT THE SAME TIME inc 36 dc evenly (inc approx. 1 dc in every 15th dc) = 568 dc. Piece measures approx. 118 cm / 46½'' in diameter. Then work A.6 71 times in total on round. Fasten off when the first 2 rounds of A.6 have been worked. Piece measures approx. 122 cm / 48'' in diameter.

SIZE XXL/XXXL:
Work A.5. When A.5 has been worked 1 time vertically, there are 532 dc on round. Then work 1 dc in back loop of every dc AT THE SAME TIME inc 36 dc evenly (inc approx. 1 dc in every 15th dc) = 568 dc. Piece measures approx. 118 cm / 46½'' in diameter. Then work A.6 71 times in total on round. When A.6 has been worked 1 time vertically, there are 639 dc on round. Piece measures approx. 125 cm / 49'' in diameter. Work 1 round with 1 dc in back loop of every dc AT THE SAME TIME inc 9 dc evenly = 648 dc. Work A.6 81 times in total on round. Fasten off when the first 2 rounds of A.6 have been worked. Piece measures approx. 130 cm / 51½'' in diameter.

SLEEVE:
Worked back and forth, top down. First work a sleeve cap. Work A.7 - remember CROCHET INFO. When A.7 has been worked 1 time, there are 25 dc on round. Fasten off. Work 14-16-18 loose ch, then work 1 dc in every dc from A.7, finish with 17-19-21 ch (includes 3 ch to turn with). Insert 1 marker in piece, NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE. Work 1 dc in 4th ch from hook, 1 dc in each of the next 13-15-17 ch, 1 dc in every dc, 1 dc in every ch = 53-57-61 dc. Then work 1 dc in every dc. When piece measures 4 cm / 1½'', dec 1 dc in each side of piece by working the first 2 dc tog and the last 2 dc tog (= 2 dc dec) – SEE DECREASE TIP! Repeat dec every 3-3-3½ cm / 1"-1"-1 1/4" 10-10-9 more times = 31-35-41 dc. When piece measures 38-39-40 cm / 15"-15 1/4"-15 3/4", work piece in the round as follows: Work A.9 6-7-8 times in total on round AT THE SAME TIME on first round dec 1-0-1 dc = 30-35-40 dc. On last round in A.9 dec 2-3-4 dc evenly = 28-32-36 dc. Then work A.10 7-8-9 times in total on round. Fasten off when A.10 has been worked 1 time vertically. Piece measures approx. 63-64-65 cm / 24 3/4"-25 1/4"-25½" in total. Work another sleeve the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew sleeves into circle in outer loop of edge sts. Sew underarm seam.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = ch
symbols = sc in dc
symbols = sc in middle dc
symbols = sc around ch-space
symbols = dc in back loop of st
symbols = dc around ch-space/ring
symbols = dc in both loops
symbols = beg round with 3 ch and finish with 1 sl st in 3rd ch
symbols = beg round with 1 ch and finish with 1 sl st in first ch
symbols = 1 sc around ch, ch 3, 1 sc around same ch
symbols = 7 dc around ch-space
symbols = 7 dc in sc
symbols = work 1 tr in back loop of st but wait with last pull through (= 2 sts on hook), work 1 tr in each of the next 3 sts the same way, pull yarn through all 5 sts on hook
symbols = 5 dc in middle ch
symbols = beg every round with 4 ch and finish with 1 sl st in 4th ch.
symbols = ch 5, 1 sl st in first ch
symbols = ch 3, 1 sl st in first ch
symbols = work 2 dc in same dc
symbols = last round on previous diagram, this round has already been worked
diagram
diagram
diagram
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diagram
signature

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 164-16) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (171)

country flag Hnin Pa Pa Win 13.03.2021 - 07:51:

Hi My circle is not flat It gone covex Am i doing correct?

user icon DROPS Design 13.03.2021 kl. 10:37:

Dea Hnin Pa Pa Win, your round should be (more or less) flat. Some unevennes can be blocked out, but generally the circle should stay flat. Please check if yozu missed some of the increases in the pattern. Happy Crafting!

country flag Sabine 10.03.2021 - 00:19:

Ich häkele den Ärmel.Bei A7 werden die Stäbchen ja immer in das hintere Maschenglied gearbeitet.Wie ist es wenn ich dann weiter arbeite...werden die Stäbchen auch so gemacht oder durch beide Maschenglieder?

country flag Karen 10.02.2021 - 23:16:

Having trouble with assembly of arms ?

country flag Karen 10.02.2021 - 23:14:

Having trouble with assembly

country flag Kandy Hayes 25.01.2021 - 17:47:

Thank you so much for answering my above question. I am now getting ready to work row 5 of A.5. Are there 6 Double crochets in between each Treble Cluster all the way around? Or are there 6 DC and then 7 DC? The graph is somewhat confusing. Basically I'm asking how many DC in each chn 6 space? How many DC should there be when I am done with this round? Thank you.

user icon DROPS Design 26.01.2021 kl. 08:39:

Dear Mrs Hayes, on row 5 you will work alternately 6 double crochets and 7 double crochets - starting with 3 dc in first ch-space and ending with 4 dc in last ch-space - just as shown in diagram. On next round, work 1 dc in each dc = 13 dc in each repeat in width. Happy crocheting!

country flag Kandy Hayes 23.01.2021 - 23:19:

I'm making L/XL & have just finished all rounds in A.4 under the ALL SIZES section. I have 240 DC as instructed. This paragraph says "Then work A.5...". Q#1 Why does graph A.5 have first five rows numbered 1-5 under A.8? Q#2 In same paragraph it says "Then work A.6" & then the last sentence in that paragraph says to "Then work A.5 ...." How do you work A.5, then A.6, & then A.5 again? This is confusing. I'm stuck until you reply. Thank you :)

user icon DROPS Design 25.01.2021 kl. 09:19:

Dear Mrs Hayes, work first all the rows in A.5 (= you will have 336 dc), then work A.6 increasing evenly (= 380 dc), then work A.5 but the number of rows will now apply: in L/XL you work all the rows in A.5 (in S/M only the first 5, that's why there are rows written). When A.5 has been worked the 2nd time (after A.6), you have now 532 dc. Hope this will help, happy crocheting!

country flag Kristin Baker 10.11.2020 - 04:31:

I am working the sleeve. When it States to decrease every 1", is the previous decrease row included in that measurement? Example: Each of my rose measures approximately 1/2 inch. What I crochet 2 rows and then decrease on the 3rd, or would I be decreasing every other row? It seems as though if I do not include it in the measurement, the sleeve would measure approximately 17" when complete but I dont want to decrease early and the sleeve end up too tight.

user icon DROPS Design 10.11.2020 kl. 09:44:

Dear Mrs Baker, you can measure from after the round where you decrease; Happy crocheting!

country flag Sonya Stone 30.10.2020 - 11:10:

Do you have this pattern in written form as I find charts confusing

user icon DROPS Design 30.10.2020 kl. 13:22:

Dear Mrs Stone, we only have diagrams to this pattern but you will find how to read crochet diagrams here. Happy crocheting!

country flag Kristin Baker 14.08.2020 - 23:15:

I am working A.6. It says to fasten off after the first 2 rows. Looking ahead I do not see when/where I add the last 2 rows. Are they just not needed? Im a little confused.

user icon DROPS Design 17.08.2020 kl. 08:05:

Dear Mrs Baker, when sleeves are done and circle is finished, - piece measures approx. 110-118-125 cm in diameter, you then just work the first 2 rows in A.6 as a finishing edge. Happy crocheting!

country flag Arpita Das 30.06.2020 - 17:25:

I have some yarn in my stack which I want to use but yardage of the yarn is 290 mtrs per 100 gms. Can I use it. Thanks 🙏

user icon DROPS Design 30.06.2020 kl. 18:39:

Dear Mrs Das, you should make a swatch (yardage/weight can vary from yarn to yarn so that it's difficult to answer you) - Read more here about tension. Happy crocheting!

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