DROPS / 177 / 10

A Flair for Spring by DROPS Design

Crochet jacket worked in a circle with lace pattern in DROPS Paris. Size: S - XXXL

DROPS design: Pattern no w-632
Yarn group C or A + A
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Size: S/M - L/XL - XXL/ XXXL
Materials:
DROPS PARIS from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
800-950-1150 g color 16, white

DROPS CROCHET HOOK size 4.5 mm/US 7 – or size needed to get 16 double crochet = width 10 cm / 4''.

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 5 ft 7 in and uses size S or M. If you are making a sweater, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

100% Cotton
from 1.10 $ /50g
DROPS Paris uni colour DROPS Paris uni colour 1.30 $ /50g
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DROPS Paris recycled denim DROPS Paris recycled denim 1.10 $ /50g
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DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 17.60$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.7.
A.1 shows beginning and end of every round, work A.2 5 times in total on round.
A.3 shows beginning and end of every round, work A.4 12 times in total on round.
Work A.5/A.6/A.7 in the round - A.x shows beginning and end of every round.

CROCHET INFO:
Replace first double crochet at beginning of round with 3 chain stitches, finish with 1 slip stitch in 3rd chain stitch at beginning of round.

CROCHET TIP (applies to sleeve):
After last single crochet on round work 6 chain stitches and continue on to next round with 1 single crochet around next chain space (= first chain space on next round). NOTE: Mark beginning of round with 1 marker thread between last chain stitch and first single crochet on next round, move the marker thread upwards. NOTE: BE CAREFUL NOT TO DISPLACE THE MARKER THREAD.

DECREASE TIP:
Work 1 single crochet around next chain space but wait with last pull through, work next single crochet around next chain space (do not work 6 chain stitches between single crochets), on last pull through, pull yarn through all 3 loops on hook.
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JACKET WORKED IN A CIRCLE:
Chain 5 on hook size 4.5 mm/US 7 with Paris and form a ring with 1 slip stitch in first chain stitch.
Then work as follows: Work A.1 (the middle of A.1 shows beginning and end of every round, i.e. work from middle of A.1), A.2 5 times in total, finish with the other half of A.1. REMEMBER THE CROCHET GAUGE!
When A.1/A.2 have been worked vertically, there are 156-156-156 double crochet on last round. Piece measures approx. 30 cm / 11 3/4'' in diameter.

Then work as follows: Work A.3 (the middle of A.3 shows beginning and end of every round, i.e. work from middle of A.3), A.4 12 times in total, finish with the other half of A.3 - AT THE SAME TIME on last round increase 7 double crochet evenly (increase by working 2 double crochet in same double crochet) = 202 double crochet on round. When A.3/A.4 have been worked vertically, piece measures approx. 40 cm / 15 3/4'' in diameter. Work 1 slip stitch in each of the first 2 double crochet, next round begin from here (i.e. mid back of neck). Now work differently in the different sizes.

SIZE S-M:
ROUND 1: READ CROCHET INFO! Work 1 double crochet in each of the first 30 double crochet, work 32 loose chain stitches for armhole, skip the next 32 double crochet, work 1 double in each of the next 78 double crochet, work 32 loose chain stitches for armhole, skip the next 32 double crochet, work 1 double crochet in each of the last 30 double crochet = 202 double crochet.
ROUND 2: Work 1 double crochet in every double crochet and 32 double crochet around each chain space - AT THE SAME TIME increase 14 stitches evenly = 216 double crochet.
ROUND 3: Work 1 double crochet in every double crochet while AT THE SAME TIME increasing 12 double crochet evenly = 228 double crochet.

SIZE L/XL:
ROUND 1: READ CROCHET INFO! Work 1 double crochet in every double crochet while AT THE SAME TIME increasing 14 double crochet evenly = 216 double crochet.
ROUND 2: Work 1 double crochet in each of the first 32 double crochet, work 35 loose chain stitches for armhole, skip the next 35 double crochet, work 1 double crochet in each of the next 82 double crochet, work 35 loose chain stitches for armhole, skip the next 35 double crochet, work 1 double crochet in each of the last 32 double crochet = 216 double crochet.
ROUND 3: Work 1 double crochet in every double crochet and 35 double crochet around each chain space - AT THE SAME TIME increase 12 stitches evenly = 228 double crochet.

SIZE XXL/XXXL
ROUND 1: READ CROCHET INFO! Work 1 double crochet in every double crochet while AT THE SAME TIME increasing 14 double crochet evenly = 216 double crochet.
ROUND 2: Work 1 double crochet in every double crochet while AT THE SAME TIME increasing 24 double crochet evenly = 240 double crochet.
ROUND 3: Work 1 double crochet in each of the first 34 double crochet, work 38 loose chain stitches for armhole, skip the next 38 double crochet, work 1 double crochet in each of the next 96 double crochet, work 38 loose chain stitches for armhole, skip the next 38 double crochet, work 1 double crochet in each of the last 34 double crochet = 240 double crochet.
ROUND 4: Work 1 double crochet in every double crochet and 38 double crochet around each chain space - AT THE SAME TIME increase 12 stitches evenly = 252 double crochet.
ROUND 5: Work 1st round in A.5 = 84 chain spaces.
ROUND 6: Work 2nd round in A.5 while AT THE SAME TIME increasing 12 double crochet evenly = 264 double crochet.

ALL SIZES:
= 228-228-264 double crochet.
Now work in the round according to A.5 (A.x shows how rounds begin and end), AT THE SAME TIME increase (increase on rounds with arrow) as follows:
ROUND 1 (no increase): = 76-76-88 chain spaces.
ROUND 2: Increase 33-33-33 double crochet evenly (NOTE: increase in single crochets, not around chain spaces) = 261-261-297 double crochet.
ROUND 3: Increase 15-15-15 double crochet evenly = 276-276-312 double crochet.
ROUND 4: Increase 18-18-18 double crochet evenly = 294-294-330 double crochet.
When A.5 has been worked vertically, circle measures approx. 29-29-33 cm / 11½"-11½"-13" from middle (= 58-58-66 cm / 22 3/4"-22 3/4"-26" in diameter).

Now work in the round according to diagram A.6 (A.x shows how rounds begin and end), AT THE SAME TIME increase (increase on round with arrow) as follows:
ROUND 1 (no increase): = 49-49-55 fans.
ROUND 2 (increase in diagram): (24-24-27 repetitions of 13 double crochet and 1 repetition of 7 double crochet) = 319-319-358 double crochet.
ROUND 3: Increase 23-23-23 double crochet evenly = 342-342-381 double crochet.
When A.6 has been worked vertically, circle measures approx. 34-34-38 cm / 13½"-13½"-15" from middle (= 68-68-76 cm / 26 3/4"-26 3/4"-30" in diameter).

Now work in the round according to A.7 (A.x shows how rounds begin and end), AT THE SAME TIME increase (increase on rounds with arrow) as follows:
ROUND 1 (no increase): = 114-114-127 chain spaces.
ROUND 2 (no increase): = 114-114-127 chain spaces.
ROUND 3: Increase 20-20-20 chain spaces evenly (increase by working 1 double crochet, 2 chain stitches, 1 double crochet and 2 chain stitches around same chain space = 1 chain space increased) = 134-134-147 chain spaces.
ROUND 4 (no increase): = 402-402-441 double crochet.
ROUND 5: Increase 15-15-15 double crochet evenly = 417-417-456 double crochet.
Repeat 1st and 2nd round in A.7 (without increases) = 139-139-152 chain spaces. In size S/M cut the yarn. Continue in size L-XXXL as follows:

SIZE L/XL - XXL/XXXL:
Repeat 2nd round in A.7 AT THE SAME TIME increase as follows:
ROUND 6: Increase 6-6 chain spaces evenly (increase by working 1 single crochet, 6 chain stitches, 1 single crochet and 2 chain stitches around same chain space = 1 chain space increased) = 145-158 chain spaces.
ROUND 7 (no increase): = 145-158 chain spaces.
ROUND 8: Increase 5-6 chain spaces evenly = 150-164 chain spaces.
ROUND 9 (no increase): = 150-164 chain spaces. Cut the yarn.
ALL SIZES:
= 139-150-164 chain spaces.
Continue working only over 39-42-45 chain spaces in each side – i.e. do not work over 30-33-37 chain spaces at the top by neck and 31-33-37 chain spaces at bottom of back. Continue with explanation under left front piece.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
= 39-42-45 chain spaces. Continue back and forth as follows:
ROW 1: Work slip stitches until middle of the first chain space, 1 single crochet, * work 6 chain stitches, 1 single crochet around next chain space *, repeat from *-* and finish with 1 single crochet around last chain space = 38-41-44 chain spaces.
Repeat 1st row 3-3-7 more times. 35-38-37 chain spaces remain at the edge of front piece. Cut the yarn.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
Work same way as on left front piece over 39-42-45 chain spaces in the right side. Cut the yarn.

FINISHING EDGE:
Work an edge around the entire circle as follows:
Repeat 3rd-5th round in A.7 (and A.x) with increases as follows:
ROUND 3 (no increase): I.e. around every chain space work 1 double crochet and 2 chain stitches = 147-158-180 chain spaces.
ROUND 4: Increase 15-27-18 double crochet evenly = 456-501-558 double crochet.
ROUND 5: Increase 12-27-18 double crochet evenly = 468-528-576 double crochet.
Now repeat 1st and 2nd round in A.6 (and A.x) as follows:
ROUND 1 (no increase): = 78-88-96 fans.
ROUND 2 (no increase): (39-44-48 repetitions of 13 double crochet) = 507-572-624 double crochet. Fasten off.
Circle measures approx. 51-59-63 cm / 20"-23 1/4-24 3/4" from middle mid back (= 102-118-126 cm / 40"-46 ½"-49½" in diameter in height), and approx. 58-66-77 cm / 22 3/4"-26"-30½" from middle out to the side (= 116-132-154 cm / 45 3/4"-52"-60½" in diameter in width).

SLEEVE:
Worked in the round from armhole and down, begin mid under sleeve (= 64-70-76 double crochet on armhole).
ROUND 1: READ CROCHET TIP! Work * 1 single crochet in double crochet, 6 chain stitches, skip approx. 4 double crochet *, repeat from *-* around entire armhole, there should be 15-18-21 chain spaces around armhole.
Continue to work 6 chain stitches and 1 single crochet around every chain space. When piece measures 4 cm / 1½'', decrease 1 chain space before marker thread - READ DECREASE TIP! Repeat decrease alternately on each side of marker thread every 4 cm / 1½'' 4-5-6 more times = 10-12-14 chain spaces.
When piece measures 38-39-40 cm / 15"-15 1/4"-15 3/4", work next round as follows:
Work 3 chain stitches (= 1 double crochet), work 4 double crochet around every chain space, finish with 1 slip stitch in 3rd chain stitch at beginning of round = 40-48-56 double crochet. Sleeve measures approx. 39-40-41 cm / 15 1/4"-15 3/4"-16 1/8". Fasten off.

Work another sleeve the same way.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

= chain stitch
= 6 chain stitches
= single crochet around chain space
= single crochet in stitch
= double crochet around chain stitch/chain space
= double crochet in stitch
= half double crochet around chain stitch
= around chain space work 1 half double crochet, 1 double crochet, 1 treble crochet, 2 chain stitches, 1 treble crochet, 1 double crochet and 1 half double crochet
= work 1 treble crochet but wait with last yarn over and pull through, work 1 treble crochet in same stitch and pull last yarn over through all 3 loops on hook
= round begins with 3 chain stitches (= 1 double crochet) and finishes with 1 slip stitch in 3rd chain stitch at beginning of round
= round begins with 2 chain stitches and finishes with 1 slip stitch in 2nd chain stitch at beginning of round
= round begins with 1 chain stitch and finishes with 1 slip stitch in first chain stitch at beginning of round. Then work slip stitches until middle of first chain space
= round begins with 1 chain stitch and finishes with 1 slip stitch in first chain stitch at beginning of round
= between 2 half double crochet work 1 single crochet, 3 chain stitches and 1 single crochet
= increase round
= shows last round on previous diagram, round has already been worked. Begin on next round.
= round is explained in pattern, round has already been worked. Begin on next round.
= 5 chain stitches, form a ring with 1 slip stitch in first chain stitch - see point on circle, round begins and ends here
= replace first double crochet at beginning of round with 3 chain stitches, finish with 1 slip stitch in 3rd chain stitch at beginning of round
= replace first single crochet crochet at beginning of round with 1 chain stitch, finish with 1 slip stitch in 1st chain stitch at beginning of round



Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 177-10) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (138)

Annemarie 23.06.2020 - 13:02:

Ich blicke leider bei der ersten Runde von A3/A4 nicht durch, könnte mir jemand erklären wie die Legende zum DSt gemeint ist? "1 Doppelstäbchen, jedoch den Faden beim letzten Mal noch nicht holen, ein Doppelstäbchen in dieselbe Masche und nun den Faden beim letzten Mal holen und durch alle 3 Schlingen auf der Nadel ziehen" Worauf bezieht sich das wenn in der Anleitung 1DSt 3LM 1Dst steht.. oder bezieht sich das auf das letzte DSt der ganzen Runde? Lg und Danke

DROPS Design 23.06.2020 kl. 16:17:

Liebe Annemarie, das 9. Symbol ist für 2 Doppelstäbchen zusammen gehäkelt - bei A.3/A.4 häkeln Sie in 1 Stäbchen: 2 Doppelstäbchen zusammen (= 9. Symbol), 3 Luftmaschen, 2 Doppelstäbchen zusammen (= 9. Symbol) - und zwischen den 2 Doppelstäbchen zusammen sind es 2 Luftmaschen (und 5 Maschen überspringen Sie). Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

Kiara 28.05.2020 - 22:02:

Bonjour, je ne comprends pas où commencer le devant gauche et droit. Faut-il compter 39 arceaux de chaque côté à partir du milieu haut du cercle (ce milieu étant le début et la fin des tours en rond) ? Merci pour votre réponse

DROPS Design 29.05.2020 kl. 08:06:

Bonjour Kiara, posez votre cercle en double, emmanchure contre emmanchure et marquez le haut et le bas = entre les emmanchures côté col et côté bas de la veste. Dépliez votre cercle et comptez maintenant les arceaux de part et d'autre de vos deux marqueurs = 30 arceaux en haut et 31 en bas = il doit en rester 39 de chaque côté pour les devants. Bon crochet!

Claire 23.05.2020 - 17:43:

Bonjour, A la fin de A1 et A2, j'ai bien 156 brides. Au premier tour de A3 et A4, j'ai 24 anneaux de doubles brides. alors qu'il m'en faudrait 26 pour avoir le dernier tour avec 202 brides. Seulement, j'ai beau compter et recompter, si les anneaux de demie bride sont bien au niveau du milieu des 24 arceaux du 7e rang de A1 et A2, je n'ai pas compris comment en obtenir 26. Avez-vous une idée d'où se trouve mon erreur ? Merci, C

DROPS Design 25.05.2020 kl. 08:48:

Bonjour Claire, si vous avez le bon nombre de brides à la fin de A.1/A.2, votre nombre de motifs doit aussi être juste: la 1ère partie de A.3 se crochète sur 3 m (= 1 groupe de double-brides), puis vous répétez 12 fois A.4 (= 12 x 12 m = 2 groupes de double-brides soit 24 groupes de double-brides au total) et vous terminez par la 2ème partie de A.3 (= 1 groupe de double-brides sur les 9 dernières mailles) -soit: 1 + 24 + 1 = 26 groupes de double-brides. Essayez de mettre un marqueur entre chaque motif pour bien vérifier votre nombre de mailles. Bon crochet!

Claire 23.05.2020 - 17:29:

PS : un commentaire datant du 14.07.2017 de Marianne Van Wessel a été posté à ce sujet. Pour réponse une de vos collaboratrice a dit qu'il devait y avoir un problème dans le pattern et qu'elle reviendrait avec la solution, mais je n'ai pas trouvé de suite. Cordialement, C

Claire 23.05.2020 - 14:31:

Bonjour, A la fin de A1 et A2, j'ai bien 156 brides. Au premier tour de A3 et A4, j'ai 24 anneaux de doubles brides. alors qu'il m'en faudrait 26 pour avoir le dernier tour avec 202 brides. Seulement, j'ai beau compter et recompter, si les anneaux de demie bride sont bien au niveau du milieu des 24 arceaux du 7e rang de A1 et A2, je n'ai pas compris comment en obtenir 26. Avez-vous une idée d'où se trouve mon erreur ? Merci, C

Jenny Burkin 21.05.2020 - 06:47:

I am quite an experienced at cricket however I have never the term PARIS. Can you please explain what this term is? Your advice is appreciated greatly.

DROPS Design 22.05.2020 kl. 07:57:

Hi Jenny, Paris is the type of yarn recommended to be used to make this shawl. Happy crocheting!

Grete Jenssen 07.05.2020 - 16:15:

Målene for sirkel. Avsluttet A1/A2 skal måle ca 30 cm. Deretter hekles A3/A4, altså 2 omganger i tillegg og nå skal målet være ca 40 cm. Hvordan får dere 2 omganger til å bli 10 cm??

DROPS Design 08.05.2020 kl. 08:02:

Hei Grete, Det er når A3/A4 har blitt heklet ferdig i høyden at sirkelen måler 40 cm. God fornøyelse!

Dawn Taylor 06.05.2020 - 00:57:

I was never taught how to read instructions..still don't know how lol. Do you have video turorial?

DROPS Design 06.05.2020 kl. 10:41:

Dear Mrs Taylor, you will find some videos and lessons related to this pattern at the end of written pattern/diagrams, for example how to read a shematic drawing or how to read crochet diagrams - this should help you. Do not hesitate to request individual assistance from the store where you bought the yarn. Happy crocheting!

Katja 07.04.2020 - 10:50:

I don\' know if I understand right.\r\nSIZE L/XL A. 7 Round 6 = I must increase in 23th chain spaces so 1 sc, 6 ch, 1sc, 2 ch and then I go in next chain spaces. Thank you

DROPS Design 09.04.2020 kl. 15:43:

Dear Katja, yes correct, you will repeat this a total of 6 times so that there are 145 ch-spaces at the end of this round. Happy crocheting!

Katja 27.03.2020 - 15:23:

Nekaj ne razumem. Sedaj sem kvačkala vrsto A. 3 in A. 4 12 krat. Torej imam skupaj 6 + 180 = 186. Sedaj pa me zanima ali razširim v naslednjo 7 in nato polovico A. 3 ali najprej skvačkam se polovico A. 3 in nato razširim. Hvala za odgovor!

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