DROPS / 99 / 3

Moonlight Mist by DROPS Design

DROPS circle jacket crochet with 2 strands “Alpaca”. Sizes S-XL

Size: S/M –M/L – XL
Note! Measures in the chart below in cm.

Materials: DROPS Alpaca from Garnstudio
700-800-900 g color no. 6205, light blue

DROPS crochet hook size 6 mm [J/10] or the size needed to obtain the correct crochet gauge.

2 buttons – approx 2.5 cm [7/8”] in diameter.

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 5 ft 7 in and uses size S or M. If you are making a sweater, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

100% Alpaca
from 3.70 $ /50g
DROPS Alpaca uni colour DROPS Alpaca uni colour 3.70 $ /50g
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DROPS Alpaca mix DROPS Alpaca mix 3.90 $ /50g
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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
Crochet the jacket according to the explanations for the circle. Start to bind off for the armholes on the 12-13-14th round. Crochet 2 rounds according to the explanation for bind off for armholes, then continue to crochet according to explanation for the circle.

Crochet gauge: 3 rows in the circle using hook size 6 mm [J/10] and 2 strands Alpaca should measure 6.5 cm [2 5/8”]. After 5th round the circle should measure 20 cm [8’’] in diameter.

Crochet info: Substitute the first tr each round with 4 ch. Finish each round with a sl st at beg of round.

Measurement tip: Because of the weight of the yarn, all measurements should be made whilst the garment is hanging, otherwise the sleeves will be too long when wearing the jacket.
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CIRCLE
Ch 4 with 2 strands Alpaca and make a ring with a sl st in the first ch.
1st round: Crochet 8 sc around the ring
2nd round: Read crochet info! Crochet 3 tr in each sc. Finish with a sl st at beg. of round = 24 tr
3rd round: Crochet 1 tr, *3 ch, skip 1 tr, 1 tr in the next tr*, repeat from *-* and finish with 3 ch and 1 sl st at the beg. of round = 12 tr.
4th round: Crochet 3 tr in the first tr *3 ch, skip 3 ch, 3 tr in the next tr*, repeat from *-* and finish with 3 ch, skip 1 tr and 1 sl st at beg. of round = 36 tr.
5th round: Crochet 1 tr in each tr and 3 tr in each ch-loop = 72 tr. The circle now measures approx. 20 cm [8’’] in diameter.
6th round: Crochet 1 tr in the first tr, *3 ch, skip 1 tr, 1 tr in the next tr*, repeat from *-* and finish with 3 ch, skip 1 tr and a sl st at beg of round = 36 tr
7th round: Crochet 3 tr in the first tr,* 2 ch, skip 3 ch, 3 tr in the next tr*, repeat from *-* and finish with 2 ch, skip 3 ch and a sl st at beg of round = 108 tr.
8th round: Crochet 1 tr in each tr and 1 tr in each ch-loop = 144 tr.
9th round: Crochet 1 tr in the first tr, *3 ch, skip 2 tr, 1 tr in the next tr*, repeat from *-* and finish with 3 ch, skip 2 tr and a sl st at beg of round = 48 tr
10th round: Crochet 3 tr in the first tr *1 ch, 3 tr in the next tr*, repeat from *-* and finish with 1 ch and a sl st at beg of round = 144 tr.
11th round: Crochet 1 tr in each tr and 1 tr in each ch-loop = 192 tr.
Remember to bind off for armholes for size S/M – read bind off explanation for round 12 and 13 below!
12th round: *1 tr, 3 ch, skip 2 tr*, repeat from *-* until finish round = 64 tr.
Remember to bind off for armholes for size M/L – read bind off explanation for round 13 and 14 below!
13th round: 3 tr in the first tr, *2 ch, 3 tr in the next tr*, repeat from *-* = 192 tr.
Remember to bind off for armholes for size XL – read bind off explanation for round 14 and 15 below!
14th round: 1 tr in each tr, 1 tr in each ch-loop = 256 tr.
15th round: 1 tr in the first tr, *3 ch, skip 2 tr, 1 tr in the next tr*, repeat from *-* until finish round = 86 tr.
16th round: 3 tr in the first tr, *2 ch, 2 tr in the next tr, 2 ch, 3 tr in the next tr*, repeat from *-* until finish round = 215 tr.
Repeat round 14, 15 and 16 with inc. until the circle measures 100-110-120 cm [39 3/8”-43 3/8”-47 ¼”] in diameter.

BIND OFF for armholes as follows:
Size S/M: Crochet armholes according to round 12 below.
12th round: Crochet 1 tr, 26 ch, skip over 26 tr, *1 tr, 3 ch, skip over 2 tr*, repeat from *-* a total of 14 times, 1 tr, 26 ch, skip 26 tr, *1 tr, 3 ch, skip 2 tr*, repeat from *-* until finish round = 48 tr.
13th round: Crochet as follows over the 26 ch’s: *3 tr, 2 ch*, a total of 8 times. Over the tr crochet as follows: *3 tr in each tr, 2 ch*, repeat from *-* = 192 tr. Continue on round 14 as explained above.
Size M/L: Crochet arm holes according to round 13 below.
13th round: 3 tr in the first tr, 30 ch, skip over (1 tr and 3 ch) a total of 7 times, 3 tr in the following tr, *2 ch, 3 tr in the next tr*, repeat from *-* a total of 15 times, 30 ch, skip over
(1 tr and 3 ch) a total of 7 times, *2 ch, 3 tr in the next tr*, repeat from *-* until finish round = 150 tr.
14th. round: Crochet as follows over the 30 ch’s: 28 tr. Over the tr and the ch-loops crochet as follows: 1 tr in each tr, 1 tr in each ch-loop = 256 tr. Continue on round 15 as explained above.
Size XL: Crochet the armholes according to round 14 below:
14th round: 34 ch, skip over (3 tr and 2 ch) a total of 8 times, *1 tr in each of the next 3 tr, 1 tr in the next ch-loop*, repeat from *-* a total of 16 times, 34 ch, skip over (3 tr and 2 ch) a total of 8 times *1 tr in each of the next tr, 1 tr in the next ch-loop*, repeat from *-* until finish round = 192 tr.
15th round: Crochet as follows over the 34 ch: *1 tr, 3 ch*, repeat from *-* a total of 11 times. Over tr crochet as follows: 1 tr, *3 ch, skip over 2 tr, 1 tr in the next tr*, finish with a tr in the last tr = 86 tr. Continue on round 16 as explained above.

SLEEVES: Crochet the sleeves from the armholes and down with 2 strands Alpaca. Crochet around. Remember the crochet info!
1st round: Crochet 52-60-68 tr around the armhole from the circle and finish with a sl st in the first tr from beg. of round.
2nd round: Crochet 1 tr in the first tr, *3 ch, skip over 3 tr, 1 tr in the next tr*, repeat from *-* and finish with: Skip over 3 ch and 1 sl st in the first tr = 13-15-17 tr.
3rd round: Crochet 2 tr in the first tr, *1 ch, skip over 3 ch, 2 tr in the next tr*, repeat from *-* and finish with: 1 ch and 1 sl st in beg. of round = 26-30-34 tr.
4th round: Crochet 1 tr in each tr and 2 tr around each ch = 52-60-68 tr.
Repeat 2nd, 3rd and 4th round until the sleeve measures 52-54-56 cm [20½”-21 ¼”-22”] from the armhole – read measurement tips.
Cut and sew the thread.

Crochet edge: Crochet an edge around the circle and at the bottom of the sleeves with 2 strands Alpaca as follows: 1st round: 1 tr in the first tr, *2 ch, skip 1.5 - 2 cm [½”-3/4”], 1 tr in the next stitch*, repeat from *-* and finish with 2 ch and a sl st in the first tr.
2nd round: 2 tr in the first tr, *4 ch, 2 tr in the same tr, 1 ch, 2 tr in the next tr* and finish with 4 ch, 2 tr in the same tr, 1 ch and 1 sl st in the first tr. Cut and sew the thread.

Button cover: Ch 2 with 2 strands Alpaca and then crochet 6 sc in the first of the 2 ch and finish round with a sl st in the first sc (= 1st round).
2nd round: 1 ch, crochet 2 sc in each sc and finish with a sl st at beg. of round (= 12 sc)
3rd + 4th round: 1 ch, 1 sc in each sc and finish with a sl st at beg. of round (= 12 sc).
5th round: 1 ch, crochet 1 sc in every other sc and finish with a sl st at beg. of round (= 6 sc). Put the button inside the cover, sew around and pull tight.
Try on the jacket and place the buttons in the waist on the left side of the jacket in the penultimate round.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 12.03.2007
.
Updated online: 29.04.2009
BIND OFF for armholes as follows:
Size S/M: Crochet armholes according to round 12 below.
12th round: Crochet 1 tr, 26 ch, skip over 26 tr, *1 tr, 3 ch, skip over 2 tr*, repeat from *-* a total of 14 times, 1 tr, 26 ch, skip 26 tr, *1 tr, 3 ch, skip 2 tr*, repeat from *-* until finish round = 48 tr.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.


Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 99-3) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (471)

Cheryl Taylor 06.12.2019 - 01:20:

Rd 3, where does 1st stitch go? I ch 4 (= 1tr), ch 3, skip 1tr. Do I go into 3rd tr with a chain of 7? Rd 5, 6, 8, 9, 11, 12, 14, 15 , where do I place 1st stitch after ch 4 (tr)? Also, in bind off for XL, Do I ch 4 at the beginning of rd 15 and 16? Thank you.for all your help!

DROPS Design 06.12.2019 kl. 08:35:

Dear Mrs Taylor, not sure to really understand your meaning here sorry, start round 3 with 4 chains (= 1st tr), then crochet *3 chains (=1st ch-space) (= a total of 7 ch); then skip next tr, work 1 tr in next tr* and repeat from *-* (= you work in every other tr from round 2 = there are now 12 tr and 12 3-ch-spaces. See crochet info about beg/end of each round. On row 14 size XL, start with 4 chains, then crochet the 34 ch for 1st armhole. Happy crocheting!

Cheryl Taylor 05.12.2019 - 01:00:

I apologize for all the questions. Instructions say chain 4 to begin every rd (counts as tr). However, what do I do for Rd 3? It say 1tr, 3ch, skip 1 tr, etc. If I chain 4 for tr, I'll have 7 chains? What am I supposed to do for Rd 3? Thank you so much.

DROPS Design 05.12.2019 kl. 10:30:

Dear Mrs Taylor, on row 3, replace the first tr with 4 ch - as under crochet info and work: 4 chains (= 1st tr), and repeat now from *-* (so that you will have 7 chains, the first 4 are for the first tr and the next 3 are for the chain-space) and finish with 1 sl st in 4th chain from beg of the round. Happy crocheting!

Cheryl Taylor 02.12.2019 - 20:24:

On the rounds where it doesn't say to sl st, do I assume that I should sl st? I'm referring to rounds 5,8, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15 & 16. These instructions are very confusing.

DROPS Design 03.12.2019 kl. 10:25:

Dear Mrs Taylor, begin every round with 4 ch to replace first tr on the round and finish each round with a sl st in the 4th ch from beg of round - see Crochet Info at the beg of the pattern. Happy crocheting!

Cheryl Taylor 27.11.2019 - 07:40:

Can you please explain the instructions for Round 4 of the Circle? I'm confused

DROPS Design 27.11.2019 kl. 08:17:

Dear Mrs Taylor, on round 4 you will work 3 tr in each of the 12 tr from round 3, and work 3 chains between each time you work 3 tr = you will have 36 tr and 36 ch-spaces. Happy crocheting!

Pam Doty 26.11.2019 - 22:40:

I have completed round 8 ending with 144 tr. I am stuck on round 9 as it says you should end up with 48 tr after doing the 1 tr in first tr, *3 ch, skip 2 tr, 1 tr in next tr and repeat*. How do I go from the previuous round's 144 tr to 48 tr on round 9?

DROPS Design 27.11.2019 kl. 07:57:

Dear Mrs Doty, on round 9 you will skip trebles to work as follows: 1 tr in first tr, then repeat: (3 ch, skip 2 tr, 1 tr in next tr) so that you work 3 ch + 1 treble over next 3 trebles. Repeat from (to) a total of 48 times = there are now 48 trebles and 48 ch-spaces. Happy crocheting!

Michelle 25.09.2019 - 20:05:

Hello, I would like to make this garment in larger sizes (such as 3X or 4X) than are given in the pattern. Do you have a plus-size pattern or instructions for making this pattern in larger sizes? Thank you.

DROPS Design 26.09.2019 kl. 10:10:

Dear Michelle, this pattern is only to size XL, but you can get inspired by similar patterns availables in XXXL. Happy knitting!

Cheryl Taylor 03.08.2019 - 02:02:

Do you have a chart with the abbreviations and their meanings available? I'm not sure about some of the abbreviations used here.

DROPS Design 03.08.2019 kl. 12:55:

Dear Cheryl, this link can help you with the abbreviations: it's a dictionary of the most frequent terms used in DROPS patterns. Happy crocheting!

Cheryl Taylor 15.07.2019 - 03:40:

I would like to make this pattern without the sleeves. I\'m a beginner so can you explain to me exactly how to do this? I am making in XL and want it to be a bit longer. How do I do this?

DROPS Design 15.07.2019 kl. 11:27:

Dear Mrs Taylor, For a sleeveless jacket, you might work the jacket with armholes as explained, and maybe then just finish with a small edge around armholes instead of working sleeves. We are unfortunately not able to adapt every pattern to every single request, but you are welcome to contact the store where you bought the yarn (even per mail or telephone) for any individual assistance. Happy crocheting!

Elana 04.07.2019 - 22:55:

I am making this in XL. I am confused on round 15 where I am supposed to crochet over the 34 chain. It says to do the instructions 11 times. But that will not take me to the end of the 34 chain. Am I supposed to skip some chains? I'm stuck.

DROPS Design 05.07.2019 kl. 08:36:

Dear Elena, on row 15 crochet the 11 times over the chain (do not crochet in the chain stitches but around the 34-chain-spaces, if you get the correct number of stitches on row before, then it should work. Happy crocheting!

Judie Harmer 17.06.2019 - 16:51:

I would like to make this for my 5year granddaughter but can’t locate the child size pattern.

DROPS Design 18.06.2019 kl. 08:24:

Dear Mrs Harmer, you will find all our crochet circle jackets for children here to help you adjusting this pattern to a child size. Happy crocheting!

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