DROPS / 165 / 17

Winter Melody by DROPS Design

Knitted DROPS jumper with lace pattern, Nordic pattern and raglan in ”Lima”. Size: S - XXXL.

DROPS design: Pattern no li-064
Yarn group B
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL

Materials:
DROPS LIMA from Garnstudio
450-500-550-550-600-650 g colour no 9010, light grey
100-100-100-100-100-100 g color no 5610, brown

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 and 80 cm / 16'' and 32'') SIZE 4 mm/US 6 - or size needed to get 21 sts x 28 rows in stockinette st = 4'' x 4'' (10 x 10 cm).

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Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 5 ft 7 in and uses size S or M. If you are making a sweater, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

65% Wool, 35% Alpaca
from 3.90 $ /50g
DROPS Lima uni colour DROPS Lima uni colour 3.90 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
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DROPS Lima mix DROPS Lima mix 4.10 $ /50g
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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
GARTER ST (worked in the round):
* K 1 round and P 1 round *, repeat from *-*. 1 ridge = 2 rounds.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.4.

RAGLAN:
Dec 2 sts in every transition between body and sleeves.
Dec as follows:
Beg 3 sts before marker and work as follows: K 2 tog, K 2 (marker is between these 2 sts), slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso.
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JUMPER:
Worked in the round on circular needle.
Cast on 210-224-252-266-294-336 sts with light gray on circular needle size 4 mm / US 6. Work 1 ridge in GARTER ST - see explanation above. Then work A.1 (= 15-16-18-19-21-24 repetitions in width). Work A.1 1 time vertically, on last round in A.1 adjust no of sts to 180-190-210-230-260-290. Work A.2 (= 18-19-21-23-26-29 repetitions in width). Work A.2 1 time vertically, on last round dec 12-10-6-2-8-14 sts evenly = 168-180-204-228-252-276 sts. Work A.3 over all sts. Insert 2 markers in the piece; one at beg of round and one after 84-90-102-114-126-138 sts (= sides). Continue with A.3 AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 12 cm / 4¾'', dec 1 st on each side of every marker (= 4 sts dec), repeat dec every 2 cm / 3/4'' 4 more times = 148-160-184-208-232-256 sts. NOTE: Because of dec A.3 will not fit in the side but make sure that holes fit according to pattern). REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE When piece measures 26 cm / 10 1/4'' in all sizes, inc 1 st on each side of every marker (= 4 sts inc). Repeat inc every 3-3-3-4-4-4 cm / 1 1/8''-1 1/8''-1 1/8''-1½''-1½''-1½'' 4 more times, work the inc sts in A.3 = 168-180-204-228-252-276 sts.

When piece measures 41-42-43-44-45-46 cm / 16 1/8''-16½''-17''-17¼''-17¾''-18'', bind off for armholes in each side as follows: bind off the first 4 sts on round, work until 4 sts remain before the other marker, bind off the next 8 sts, work until 4 sts remain, bind off these 4 sts. There are 76-82-94-106-118-130 sts on back piece/front piece. Put piece aside and knit the sleeves.

SLEEVE:
Worked in the round on double pointed needles. Cast on 48-48-48-48-60-60 sts on double pointed needles size 4 mm / US 6 with light gray. Work 2 ridges, then work in stockinette st until piece measures 8 cm / 3 1/8''. Insert 1 marker at beg of round = mid under sleeve. Continue with A.3. When piece measures 9 cm / 3½'', inc 2 st under sleeve – work the inc sts in A.3. Inc every 4-3-2½-2-3-2½ cm / 1½"-1 1/8"-7/8"-3/4"-1 1/8"-7/8" 9-12-14-16-12-14 more times = 68-74-78-82-86-90 sts. When piece measures approx. 49-49-48-48-47-47 cm / 19 1/4"-19 1/4"-19"-19"-18½"-18½" (adjust to end at the same row in A.3 as on body), bind off the middle 8 sts under sleeve for armhole = 60-66-70-74-78-82 sts remain on round. Put piece aside and make another sleeve.

YOKE:
Slip sleeves on to same circular needle as body where armholes were bound off = 272-296-328-360-392-424 sts. Beg of round is now in transition between right sleeve and back piece, cut the yarn and beg here. Insert 1 marker in all transitions between sleeves and body (= 4 markers). Continue with A.3 as before, on next round beg dec for RAGLAN – see explanation above (= 8 sts dec). Repeat dec every other round 22-22-22-23-24-25 more times and then every round 0-3-5-6-7-8 times - AT THE SAME TIME when dec for raglan has been done 2-2-3-3-4-4 times (there are now 256-280-304-336-360-392 sts on round) work next round as follows (beg before raglan dec between right sleeve and back piece): Dec for raglan as before – always work sts in raglan with light gray, A.4 over the next 66-72-82-94-104-116 sts (= back piece), dec for raglan, A.4 over the next 50-56-58-62-64-68 sts (= left sleeve), dec for raglan, A.4 over the next 66-72-82-94-104-116 sts (= front piece), dec for raglan, A.4 over the last 50-56-58-62-64-68 sts (= right sleeve). NOTE: Arrow in diagram shows middle of A.4. Count out from the middle when starting to work pattern on sleeve and back piece/front piece so that the pattern is the same in each side on each part. Continue with A.4 and raglan. When pattern has been worked, continue in stockinette st with light gray and raglan as before. After all dec for raglan 88-88-104-120-136-152 sts remain on round. Work 2 ridges over all sts, on first round dec 10-10-16-28-40-52 sts evenly = 78-78-88-92-96-100 sts. Bind off.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the openings under the sleeves.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 25.10.2016
New yarn amount: DROPS LIMA from Garnstudio 450-500-550-550-600-650 g colour no 9010, light grey

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

= 1 YO between 2 sts
= K 2 tog
= slip 2 sts as if to K tog, K 1, pass the 2 slipped sts over
= K with light grey
= K with brown


Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 165-17) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (21)

Barbara 28.02.2019 - 19:16:

Hallo, danke für die tolle Anleitung! Um den Pfeil von A4 jeweils in der Mitte zu platzieren, brauche ich doch ungerade Maschenanzahlen. Kann ich nach dem Zusammenfügen von Rumpf und Ärmeln einfach jeweils eine Ärmelmasche zum Vorder- bzw. Rückenteil rübernehmen? Danke und Grüße!

DROPS Design 11.03.2019 kl. 08:28:

Liebe Barbara, beachten Sie nur, daß die eine von den 2 mittleren maschen die mit dem Pfeil ist, z;B. bei der 1. Grösse wählen Sie einfach die 25. oder die 26. Masche, bei M, die 28. oder die 29. Masche, usw. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Coutarel 02.01.2019 - 16:33:

Vous enlevez les mailles du raglan dans le motif du jacquard ?

DROPS Design 03.01.2019 kl. 08:27:

Bonjour Mme Coutarel, les mailles du raglan se tricotent en gris clair, ce sont les diminutions = elles ne se tricotent pas en jacquard. Bon tricot!

Coutarel 02.01.2019 - 15:41:

J en suis à A4 j ai centré le motif sur le dos comment faire pour les manches ?

DROPS Design 02.01.2019 kl. 15:49:

Bonjour Mme Coutarel, cette leçon explique comment centrer un diagramme. Bon tricot!

Monique Ligtermoet 10.12.2017 - 22:41:

Als je a3 moet breien moet je bij een hoogte van 12 cm minderen. Meet je dan alleen patroon a3 of de totale hoogte?

DROPS Design 11.12.2017 kl. 12:35:

Hallo Monique, Je meet dan de totale hoogte, dus vanaf het opzetten. Veel breiplezier!

Monique Ligtermoet 16.11.2017 - 14:19:

Bij patroon A1 brei je de de omslag gedraaid of niet?

DROPS Design 17.11.2017 kl. 11:40:

Hoi Monique, Nee, je breit de omslagen gewoon recht, zodat er gaatjes ontstaan en dus en kantpatroon.

Susanne 16.10.2017 - 18:01:

Hej, jeg forstår ikke helt A 4. Skal jeg starte fra midten på hver del af bærestykket (altså ærmer, forstk og bagstk), eller skal jeg tælle masker fra midten mod venstre eller højre del af A 4? f.eks 62 masker på ærmet og så tælle 2 masker frem eller tilbage på A 4?

DROPS Design 31.10.2017 kl. 08:21:

Hej, Her ser du hvordan du placerer et diagram i midten.

Christine 05.02.2016 - 15:03:

Sorry, habe vergessen dass es je Teil jeweils 6 Maschen sind, nur zum Verständnis, insgesamt sind es also 24 Maschen.

Christine 05.02.2016 - 14:45:

Hallo, in der Größe XXXL ist ein Fehler in der Anleitung. Ausgehend von den angegebenen Maschen sind bei Ärmeln und Körper nach den 4 Raglanabnahmen jeweils 6 Maschen zu viel übrig. Soll ich nun 3 x mehr die Raglanabnahmen arbeiten (6 Runden mehr also), oder in der 4ten Raglanabnahmerunde die 6 überflüssigen Maschen einfach verteilt abnehmen? Für einen Tip ( und evtl. Berichtigung der Anleitung) wäre ich dankbar. Vielen Dank für das ansonsten sehr schöne Muster!

DROPS Design 06.02.2016 kl. 14:43:

Es ist kein Fehler in der Anleitung. A.4 stricken Sie einfach immer so weit wie möglich, Sie müssen dabei darauf achten, dass die mit dem Pfeil markierte M jeweils in der Mitte liegt. Die Maschenzahl passt am Ende.

Alessandra 18.11.2015 - 23:13:

Salve, non riesco a capire nelle istruzioni come dovrei calare di 34 maglie (per l'XL) alla fine del motivo A1.Le diminuzioni sono di che tipo e in che ordine? Dove devo farle? Dopo il motivo a legaccio (Dal 3'ferro) dove devo mettere i segnapunti per le spalle?Quando le istruzioni chiedono di aumentare, gli aumenti come devono intendersi?A che altezze del lavoro dovrei trovarmi i disegni con il filo contrastante? Grazie!

DROPS Design 19.11.2015 kl. 10:58:

Buongiorno Alessandra, il lavoro inizia dal bordo inferiore, deve lavorare 2 giri a legaccio e iniziare a lavorare A.1. Sull'ultimo giro di A.1 (giro tutto a dir) deve passare da 266 a 230 m per la taglia XL, può diminuire lavorando 2 m insieme a dir. Poi lavorerà A.2 e A.3, in cui si modellerà la vita e il sottoseno e poi inizierà a intrecciare per gli scalfi. Provi a vedere se questa lezione le può essere utile: Come aumentare /diminuire in modo uniforme. Se ha ancora bisogno di altri chiarimenti ci riscriva spiegandoci il problema, molti dubbi vengono risolti procedendo nel lavoro. Buon lavoro!

Maryse 26.10.2015 - 03:50:

Comment faire les 2e jours dans le motif de A3 étant donné qu'après ma 1re dim, j'ai 11 m dans ma 1re section au lieu de 12 m? SVP, me donner l'explication de ceci : ''NOTE: A.3 ne tombe plus juste sur les côtés à cause des diminutions, mais veiller à bien continuer les jours comme avant).'' Gros merci! C'est un si beau patron!

DROPS Design 26.10.2015 kl. 11:41:

Bonjour Maryse, continuez à tricoter A.3 comme avant pour ne pas décaler le motif, mais sur les côtés, tricotez les m en jersey quand vous n'avez plus suffisamment de mailles pour 1 motif de A.3 à cause des diminutions. Bon tricot!

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