DROPS Extra / 0-809

Nordic Midnight by DROPS Design

Knitted sweater for men with Norwegian pattern, in DROPS Karisma. Size: S - XXXL.

DROPS design: Pattern no U-650
Yarn group B

Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Finished measurements:
Bust: 86-94-102-112-124-134 cm / 34"-37"-40"-44"-49"-54"
Full length: 66-68-70-72-74-76 cm / 26''-26¾''-27½''-28 3/8''-29 1/8''-30''

DROPS KARISMA from Garnstudio
Color no 37, dark gray blue:
550-600-650-700-750-850 g
Color no 01, off white:
100-100-150-150-150-150 g
Color no 55, light beige brown:
50-50-50-50-50-50 g

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 and 80 cm / 16'' and 32'') SIZE 4 mm / US 6 - or size needed to get 21 sts x 28 rows in stockinette st = 10 x 10 cm / 4'' x 4''.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 and 40 cm / 32" and 16") SIZE 3 mm / US 2or3 - for rib.

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!

100% Wool
from 3.20 $ /50g
DROPS Karisma uni colour DROPS Karisma uni colour 3.20 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
DROPS Karisma mix DROPS Karisma mix 3.20 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 44.80$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
See diagrams M.1 to M.3 – diagrams are worked in stockinette st and show 1 repetition of pattern.

Worked in the round on circular needle.
Cast on 210-228-246-270-306-330 sts on circular needle size 3 mm / US 2or3 with dark gray blue Karisma.
Work rib = K 1/P 1 for 5 cm / 2''.
Switch to circular needle size 4 mm / US 6 and K 1 round while AT THE SAME TIME dec 36-38-40-44-52-56 sts evenly = 174-190-206-226-254-274 sts.
Insert a marker at beg of round and a marker after 87-95-103-113-127-137 sts (these marks the sides). Continue in stockinette st.
When piece measures 15 cm / 6'', inc 1 st on each side of both markers. Repeat inc when piece measures 30 cm / 11 3/4'' = 182-198-214-234-262-282 sts.
When piece measures 41-43-45-46-48-50 cm / 16"-17"-17 3/4"-18"-19"-19 3/4", insert 2 markers in the piece; 1 in the middle st at the front and 1 in the middle st at the back.
Then work diagram M.1 – st marked with arrow in diagram should be sts with marker mid front/back - count out towards the side. Count out again when at the marker in the side so that pattern is the same on the front and on the back. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 46-47-48-49-50-51 cm / 18''-18½''-19''-19¼''-19¾''-20'', bind off 6-10-14-20-30-36 sts for armholes in each side (i.e. 3-5-7-10-15-18 sts on each side of both markers in the sides). Finish front and back piece separately, back and forth on needle.

= 85-89-93-97-101-105 sts. Finish diagram M.1, then work diagram M.2 and finally M.3 before continuing with light beige brown until finished measurements (st with arrow in diagram should be st with marker mid front/back – count out towards the side).
When piece measures 58-60-62-64-66-68 cm / 22¾''-23 5/8''-24 3/8''-25¼''-26''-26¾'', slip the middle 15-17-17-19-19-21 sts on a stitch holder for neck and finish each shoulder separately.
AT THE SAME TIME bind off at beg of every row from neck: 2 sts 3 times and 1 st 3 times = 26-27-29-30-32-33 sts remain on shoulder.
Bind off when piece measures 66-68-70-72-74-76 cm / 26''-26¾''-27½''-28 3/8''-29 1/8''-30''.

= 85-89-93-97-101-105 sts. Work as on front piece but do not bind off for neck until piece measures 64-66-68-70-72-74 cm / 25¼''-26''-26¾''-27½''-28 3/8''-29 1/8''. Now bind off the middle 29-31-31-33-33-35 sts for neck and finish each shoulder separately - AT THE SAME TIME bind off 2 sts on next row from neck = 26-27-29-30-32-33 sts remain on each shoulder. Bind off when piece measures approx. 66-68-70-72-74-76 cm / 26''-26¾''-27½''-28 3/8''-29 1/8''-30'' / 26''-26¾''-27½''-28 3/8''-29 1/8''-30'' – bind off on same row in pattern as on front piece.

Worked in the round on double pointed needles, switch to circular needle when needed.
Cast on 62-64-66-66-68-68 sts on double pointed needles size 3 mm / US 2or3 with dark gray blue. Work rib = K 1/P 1 for 5 cm / 2''.
Switch to double pointed needles size 4 mm / US 6 and K 1 round while AT THE SAME TIME dec 11 sts evenly = 51-53-55-55-57-57 sts.
Insert a marker at beg of round (= mid under sleeve) and continue in stockinette st. When piece measures 6 cm / 2 3/8'', inc 1 st on each side of marker. Repeat inc a total of 17-18-19-21-22-24 times in
Size S: On every 9th round,
Size M: Alternately on every 8th and 9th round,
Size L: Every 8th round,
Size XL: On every 7th round,
Size XXL: Alternately on every 6th and 7th round
Size XXXL: Alternately on every 5th and 6th round
= 85-89-93-97-101-105 sts.
AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 53 cm / 21'' in all sizes, work diagram M.1 (st with arrow in diagram = mid on top of sleeve – count out towards the side).
After diagram M.1, continue with dark gray blue until finished measurements. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 61-60-59-58-56-54 cm / 24"-23½"-23 1/4"-22 3/4"-22"-21 1/4" (shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of longer sleeve cap and broader shoulder width), finish the piece back and forth on needle from mid under sleeve.
Cast on 1 new st in each side (= edge st for assembly) and work until sleeve measures 63 cm / 24 3/4'' in all sizes, bind off.

Sew shoulder seams and sew in sleeves (section worked back and forth at the top of sleeve should fit the bind off for armhole).

Pick up from RS approx. 82 to 98 sts around the neck (including sts on stitch holder at the front) on a short circular needle size 3 mm / US 2or3 with dark gray blue.
P 1 round, then K 1 round while AT THE SAME TIME inc evenly to 102-108-110-116-118-122 sts.
Then work rib = K 1/P 1 for approx. 7 cm / 2¾'', bind off with K over K and P over P.
Fold the rib double towards WS and fasten it to the back of neck edge with neat little loose stitches.


All measurements in charts are in cm.

= dark gray blue
= off white
= light beige brown

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS Extra 0-809) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (93)

Martina 06.09.2020 - 19:43:

Prosím, kdy bude konečně opraven český překlad? Bohužel ho část chybí již několik let. U překladu přední části byla vynechána věta: AT THE SAME TIME cast off at beg of every row from neck: 2 sts 3 times and 1 st 3 times = 26-27-29-30-32-33 sts remain on shoulder. ...díky tomu české a slovenské pletařky nemohou nikdy sešít přední a zadní díl na náramenicích.

Chalani 04.09.2020 - 14:17:

Hi there, i would like this pattern with high neck. what should i do?

DROPS Design 07.09.2020 kl. 07:59:

Dear Chalani, you might just continue the rib on collar until desired length - find inspiration from jumper for men in the same yarn group with a high collar. Happy knitting!

Annalisa Doedens 12.06.2020 - 14:23:

HI- I am not sure what you mean when doing the top of the sleeve when it says ; finish the piece back and forth on needle from mid under sleeve. Then I increase stitches. what exactly do i do? It looks great otherwise

DROPS Design 12.06.2020 kl. 15:09:

Dear Mrs Doedens, when sleeve measures 53 cm in all sizes you start working diagram M.1, then when piece measures 61-60-59-58-56-54 cm from cast on edge, you then continue back and forth, ie from the beg of round, work all sts to the end of the round, but instead of continuing in the round, cast on 1 new stitch (for seam allowance), turn and purl all sts (in M.1 as before, reading now diagram from the left towards the right) cast on 1 st at the end of the row (seam allowance), turn and continue working back and forth. until sleeve measures 63 cm. Happy knitting!

Luana Minasso 06.05.2020 - 16:35:

Mi scuso ma non ho ancora compreso bene. Ho chiuso 31 maglie sul dietro del maglione, anche queste vanno riprese per fare il collo? Sul davanti ne ho chiuse diverse sui lati e 17 centrali, come da schema. Le maglie da riprendere per il collo per me sono 84, e quindi saranno 17 + 36 sul davanti e anche le 31 intrecciate sul dietro?

DROPS Design 06.05.2020 kl. 17:00:

Buongiorno Luana. Per il collo, deve riprendere le maglie tutto intorno allo scollo e lavorare in tondo. Quindi riprende le maglie del davanti, riprende la maglie lungo i due lati dello scollo e riprende le maglie sul dietro. Buon lavoro!

Luana 06.05.2020 - 14:45:

Buongiorno, per il collo del maglione devo riprendere le maglie solo sul davanti ? Lo scollo dietro serve solo per la cucitura?

DROPS Design 06.05.2020 kl. 15:23:

Buongiorno Luana, deve riprendere le maglie in sospeso e anche le maglie del collo, fino ad arrivare al numero indicato. Il collo verrà poi lavorato a coste e verrà risvoltato e affrancato sul dietro del collo. Buon lavoro!

Luana 19.04.2020 - 16:46:

Buongiorno, nel lavoro del davanti:" diminuire ALL INIZIO di ogni ferro lato scollo" ma lo scollo non è centrale sul ferro?quindi diminuisconall'inizio del ferro o prima dello scollo? Sempre sul davanti del lavoro, relativamente alle diminuzioni, c'è scritto :" diminuire 2 maglie per 3 volte e 1 maglia per 3 volte". Se diminuisco 9 maglie non è la stessa cosa? in ultimo, per il collo, c'è scritto di riprendere da 82 a 98 maglie, come faccio a decidere quante? Grazie!

DROPS Design 19.04.2020 kl. 17:34:

Buongiorno Luana. Le diminuzioni vanno fatto all'inizio dei ferri che hanno inizio dallo scollo. Le diminuzioni non vanno fatte su un unico ferro, ma distribuite su più ferri come indicato: per 3 volte, diminuisce 2 maglie sul ferro, per altre 3 volte , diminuisce 1 maglia. Il numero di maglie da riprendere dipende dalla misura che sta lavorando. Riprenda un numero di maglie che non stringa troppo lo scollo, ma che non lo renda neanche troppo lento. Il numero delle maglie riprese deve essere pari. Buon lavoro!

Laurie Wadsworth 08.04.2020 - 17:47:

What is the gauge on this sweater? I need to shorten the sleeves and I cannot find out how many rows for an inch or how many stitches. Please help me. Thanks, Laurie

DROPS Design 09.04.2020 kl. 17:02:

Dear Mrs Wadsworth, you will find tension at the beg of the pattern = 21 sts x 28 rows stockinette st = 4"x4" with needle size US6. Happy knitting!

Mette Edelmann Hammer 26.03.2020 - 13:18:

Hej! Jeg skal lave denne sweater til min bror, og er i tvivl om hvordan jeg kan se , hvilket størrelse jeg skal vælge - hvad svarer de forskellige størrelser til i bryst overvidde?

DROPS Design 30.03.2020 kl. 13:39:

Hei Mette. Ta en titt på målskissen nederst på oppskriften, der finner du målene oppgitt i cm du trenger. God Fornøyelse!

Luana 12.03.2020 - 16:01:

Buongiorno sono arrivata al diaframma M1 e mi ritrovo con 4 segnapunti, che indicano l\'inizio del davanti e del dietro, le metà del davanti e del dietro. Non ho capito in M1 la m con la freccia a quale segnapunti si riferisce, potete aiutarmi?

DROPS Design 12.03.2020 kl. 16:45:

Buongiorno Luana. La maglia con la freccia nel diagramma coincide la maglia con il segnapunti al centro sul davanti e al centro sul dietro. Buon lavoro!

Kari Frogner 09.01.2020 - 20:42:

Hei! Jeg strikker denne genseren i xxl, og har begynt på ermene. Her står det "når arbeidet måler 6cm skal en øke med en maske på hver side av merket". Er det hele arbeidet som skal måle 6cm eller skal det måles 6cm fra etter vrangborden? Når jeg begynner å øke masker etter 6 cm målt fra starten av vrangborden blir ermet veldig bredt veldig fort, er det meningen? Mvh Kari

DROPS Design 10.01.2020 kl. 11:08:

Hei Kari. Ja, det stemmer at det skal økes når arbeidet måler 6cm. Det økes med mindre antall omganger mellom økningene på de større størrelsene på grunn av at ermene er korterer enn ermene i de mindre størrelsene, dette fører til at ermet blir bredere fortere. Ermet økes slik på grunn av at det er bredere skuldervidde og lengre ermetopp på ermene i str. XXL-XXXL. Lykke til!

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