DROPS Baby / 19 / 10

Snuggly Bunny by DROPS Design

Knitted bunting bag in seed st with textured pattern and cables in DROPS Merino Extra Fine

DROPS design: Pattern no ME-042-by
Size: 1/3 - 6/9 - 12/18 months (2 - 3/4) years
Finished measurements:
Bust: 62-68-76 (80-88) cm / 24 3/8"-26 3/4"-30" (31½"-34 5/8")
Full length: 56-66-76 (86-98 ) cm / 22"-26"-30" (33 7/8"-38½")

Materials: DROPS MERINO EXTRA FINE from Garnstudio
450-500-550 (650-700) g color no 01, off-white

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 or 80 cm / 24'' or 32'') size 4 mm/US 6 – or size needed to get 21 sts x 28 rows in stockinette st = 10 x 10 cm / 4'' x 4''.

DROPS WOODEN BUTTON BURNT, no 511: 10-10-10 (12-12) pcs.

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Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!

100% Wool
from 4.20 $ /50g
DROPS Merino Extra Fine uni colour DROPS Merino Extra Fine uni colour 4.20 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
DROPS Merino Extra Fine mix DROPS Merino Extra Fine mix 4.20 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 37.80$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.

GARTER ST (back and forth on needle): K all rows.

See diagram M.1 to M.3. Diagrams show the pattern from RS. First row in M.2 and M.3 = RS.

You can make a hole on front and back piece for car seat belt. Make the hole when piece measures approx 16-20-23 (28-33) cm / 6 1/4"-8"-9" (11"-13") (or required measurements) by casting/binding off the middle 10 sts on needle. On next row cast on 10 new sts over bind off sts and continue as before.

Make buttonholes on right front band. 1 buttonhole = K tog 2nd and 3rd st from mid front and make 1 YO.
Make buttonholes when piece measures:
Size 1/3 months: 25, 30, 35, 40, 45 and 50 cm / 9 3/4",11 3/4",13 3/4",15 3/4",17 3/4" and 19 3/4".
Size 6/9 months: 28, 34, 41, 47, 54 and 60 cm / 11",13 3/8",16 1/8", 18½",21 1/4" and 23 5/8".
Size 12/18 months: 30, 38, 46, 54, 62 and 70 cm / 11 3/4",15",18",21 1/4",24 3/8" and 27½".
Size 2 years: 37, 44, 51, 58, 65, 72 and 79 cm / 14½",17 1/4",20",22 3/4",25½",28 3/8" and 31".
Size 3/4 years: 40, 48, 57, 65, 74, 82 and 91 cm / 15 3/4",19",22½",25½",29 1/8",32 1/4" and 35 3/4".

The bag is worked in 2 parts from bottom edge and up and sewn tog afterwards. Work each part back and forth on circular needle in order to fit in all sts.
NOTE: If hole for seat belt is required – see above.

Cast on 68-74-82 (86-94) sts (includes 1 edge st each side) on circular needle size 4 mm / US 6 with Merino Extra Fine. Work GARTER ST - see above – for 4-4-4 (5-5) cm / 1½"-1½"-1½" (2"-2") – adjust to a row from WS. P 1 row from WS and continue in M.1 with 1 edge st in garter st each side (beg with K1 after edge st).
When piece measures 44-53-62 (71-82) cm / 17 1/4"-21"-24 3/8" (28"-32 1/4") cast on new sts for sleeves each side. Cast on at the end of every row as follows: 4 sts 2-2-3 (3-3) times, 8 sts 1-1-1 (1-3) times, 10 sts 1-1-1 (2-1) times and 12-14-15 (15-16) sts 1 time = 144-154-172 (196-218) sts on needle – NOTE: incorporate inc sts in M.1 as you go along - when all sts have been cast on continue M.1, but with 10 sts each side in garter st (= bottom edge of sleeves).
When piece measures 54-64-74 (84-96) cm / 21 1/4"-25 1/4"-29 1/8" (33"-37 3/4") bind off the middle 16-18-22 (24-24) sts for neck and complete each shoulder/sleeve separately. Bind off 1 st on neckline on next row = 63-67-74 (85-96) sts left on needle (= shoulder + sleeve). Bind off when piece measures 56-66-76 (86-98) cm / 22"-26"-30" (33 7/8"-38½"). Repeat on the other side.

Cast on 68-74-82 (86-94) sts and work garter st for 2-2-2 (2.5-2.5) cm / 3/4"-3/4"-3/4" (7/8"-7/8"), then work next row as follows from RS: K 12-13-14 (14-16) sts, * K2 tog, 1 YO, K 12-13-15 (12-13) sts *, repeat from *-* a total of 3-3-3 (4-4) times, K2 tog, 1 YO and finish with K 12-14-15 (14-16) sts (= 4-4-4 (5-5) buttonholes). Continue in garter st until edge measures 4-4-4 (5-5) cm / 1½"-1½"-1½" (2"-2") - adjust to a row from WS. P 1 row from WS, AT THE SAME TIME inc 22 sts evenly = 90-96-104 (108-116) sts. Work next rows as follows from RS: 1 edge st, M.1 on the first 5-8-12 (14-18) sts (beg with K1 at the side to match pattern at the side to back piece), M.2 (= 32 sts), P 14 sts, M.3 (= 32 sts), M.1 on the next 5-8-12 (14-18) sts (adjust so M.1 finishes with P1 at the side before edge st to match pattern to back piece) and finish with 1 edge st. Continue in pattern like this with M.1, M.2 and M.3 and 14 sts in reverse stockinette st mid front. When piece measures 23-25-28 (33-37) cm / 9"-9 3/4"-11" (13"-14½") slip the first 42-45-49 (51-55) sts on a stitch holder = 48-51-55 (57-61) sts left on needle.

= 48-51-55 (57-61) sts. Continue in pattern as before, but work the 6 sts towards mid front in garter st for front band - REMEMBER BUTTONHOLES - see above! When piece measures 44-53-62 (71-82) cm / 17 1/4"-21"-24 3/8" (28"-32 1/4") cast on new sts for sleeve at the end of every row towards the side as described for back piece = 86-91-100 (112-123) sts. When all sts have been cast on continue in pattern as before, but work the 10 sts on sleeve edge in garter st. When 1 row remain before piece measures 51-61-71 (80-92) cm / 20"-24"-28" (31½"-36 1/4") – adjust so this row is from WS - dec 4 sts on the cable towards mid front (i.e. dec 2 sts over cable and 1 st each side of cable). On next row from RS slip 6-7-8 (9-9) sts towards mid front on a stitch holder for neck. Bind off to shape the neckline at the beg of every row from mid front: 2 sts 2 times and 1 st 2-2-3 (3-3) times = 70-74-81 (92-103) sts left on needle (= shoulder + sleeve). Continue in pattern as before. When 1 row remain before piece measures 56-66-76 (86-98) cm / 22"-26"-30" (33 7/8"-38½") dec 7 sts evenly over sts in cables in M.3 = 63-67-74 (85-96) sts. On next row bind off all sts.

Slip sts from stitch holder back on needle and pick up 6 sts behind the 6 garter sts on right front band = 48-51-55 (57-61) sts. Continue as described for right front piece but mirrored – NOTE: do not make buttonholes on front band.

Sew shoulder/over arm seams. Sew seam under sleeves and down along the side inside 1 edge st. Fold 5 cm / 2'' on each sleeve edge towards RS and fasten with a couple of sts. Sew 4-4-4 (5-5) buttons at bottom of bunting bag and sew remaining buttons on left front band.

Pick up from RS approx 58 to 78 sts round neck (includes sts from stitch holders at front) on circular needle size 4 mm / US 6 with Merino Extra Fine. K 1 row from WS, then K 1 row from RS, AT THE SAME TIME inc evenly to 85-89-93 (97-101) sts. Continue in M.1 with 6 garter sts each side - AT THE SAME TIME cast on 6 new sts at the end of the next 2 rows for folding edge = 97-101-105 (109-113) sts – work these sts in garter st. Continue in M.1 with 12 garter sts each side until hood measures 21-23-25 (27-28) cm / 8 1/4"-9"-9 3/4" (10 5/8"-11") and bind off. Fold hood double and sew tog at the top. Fold 6 garter sts round opening of hood towards RS and fasten to neckline with neat sts.


All measurements in charts are in cm.

= K from RS, P from WS
= P from RS, K from WS
= slip 3 sts on cable needle behind piece, K3, K3 from cable needle
= slip 3 sts on cable needle in front of piece, K3, K3 from cable needle
= slip 2 sts on cable needle behind piece, K2, K2 from cable needle
= slip 2 sts on cable needle in front of piece, K2, K2 from cable needle

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS Baby 19-10) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (205)

Marjorie Bobbitt 01.01.2018 - 03:40:

For the patterns M2 and M3, I u derstand the first four rows but for rows five and six, what stitch do I use to fill in the parts of the pattern to either side of the middle 12 cables stitches?

DROPS Design 02.01.2018 kl. 11:26:

Dear Mrs Bobbitt, in M.2 and M.3 the cables will not be repeated the same ways in the middle and on each side, ie the cables on each side of diagram are repeated every 4th row, the cables in the middle of repeat are worked every 6th row. Happy knitting!

Barbara 26.12.2017 - 23:42:

Ciao a tutti! Sto cucendo il sacconanna; potreste confermarmi che il bordo inferiore (sotto I 4 bottoni) non deve essere cucito? Grazie mille, Barbara

DROPS Design 27.12.2017 kl. 08:01:

Buongiorno Barbara. Il bordo inferiore non deve essere cucito. Si chiude con i bottoni. Buon lavoro!

Nancy 06.11.2017 - 04:28:

I wonder if you can help me. I am done with both back & front pieces of bunting but can't figure which 7 stitches I put on a holder. Is it the front band on both sides? Then which stitches do I bind off? Is there a tutorial with video that I could watch to understand what to do? thanks for your help

DROPS Design 06.11.2017 kl. 10:03:

Dear Nancy, when piece measures 61 cm, dec over the first cable on right front piece (last cable on left front piece) from RS and on next row from RS slip the first 7 sts on right front piece (work them before to avoid cutting yarn) and slip the 7 last sts on left front piece on a st holder - these sts will be knit up later for hood. Happy knitting!

Jill 03.10.2017 - 17:19:

What size are the wooden buttons please and can I order them from you at the same time as the wool. ? Jill

DROPS Design 04.10.2017 kl. 11:23:

Dear Jill, they are 20 mm - find them here. Happy knitting!

Maureen Ojdana 16.08.2017 - 19:35:

Is everyone happy with this yarn for the baby ? Does it wash well ? Are the sizes pretty true to age I realize all babies are different.

Desiree 10.08.2017 - 11:14:

Hello! This is my first time knitting from a pattern and I am quite puzzled with some of the instructions. For instance, on the backpiece, when it says " complete each shoulder/sleeve separately. Cast off 1 st on neckline on next row = 63-67-74 (85-96) sts left on needle (= shoulder + sleeve)". I cannot understand this part. As I can understand visually, could any of you post a picture of the finished work of the backpiece to illustrate this part? Many thanks! Desiree.

DROPS Design 10.08.2017 kl. 13:48:

Dear Desiree, first work one row on back piece casting off middle sts for neck. Work now sts from the first shoulder as before, casting off 1 st at the beg of next row starting from neck and continue until finished measurements. Work now sts from 2nd shoulder back as before, casting off 1 st for neck on first row starting from neck and continue as 1st shoulder. Happy knitting!

HOURDEBAIGT PAULE 08.08.2017 - 14:02:

Bonjour, Je suis en haut du devant droit mais je ne comprends pas Comment diminuer 4 m dans la torsade coté milieu devant. Est-ce je diminue sur la grosse torsade de 12 m? 1m sur chaque groupe de 3 mailles qui compose la torsade? Et du coup au croisement suivant je ne croise plus que 2 fois des groupes de 2 mailles? C'est ça? Merci pour votre réponse et pour votre site magnifique.

DROPS Design 08.08.2017 kl. 15:15:

Bonjour Mme Hourdebaigt, vous diminuez 4 m dans la 1ère torsade sur l'endroit (devant droit): soit 1 m de chaque côté (= 2 m ens à l'env avant et après les 4 m end) et 2 fois 2 m ens à l'end au-dessus des 4 m de la torsade. Bon tricot!

Lone 19.07.2017 - 19:47:

Godaften:--) Når jeg strikker rygstykket og altså M.1 mønsteret, så blir arbejdet skævt??....... Jeg har trevlet det op, og sikret mig at jeg starter korrekt. Men det er ligesom om, at mønsteret trækker det færdige arbejde skævt. Hvad kan det skyldes?? Med venlig hilsen, Lone

DROPS Design 09.08.2017 kl. 15:08:

Hej Lone, det ved jeg faktisk ikke.... hvis du er sikker på at du følger mønsteret og strikker i DROPS Merino Extra Fine, så vil det altså blive lige ifølge opskriften. God fornøjelse!

Els 25.05.2017 - 20:54:

Goedenavond, ik ben een beginnend breister. Nu ben ik aan het einde van het rechter voorpand gekomen, maar heb een probleem met het afkanten: minder 4 st over kabel, betekent dat dan 2x2 st van kabel samen breien, en dan ook voor en na de kabel telkens 2st samen? En de priem erna, brei ik dan eerst de 6 st van de voorbies vooraleer ik ze op een hulpnaald plaats? En wat doe ik dan verder met deze steken? (ik raak er niet wijs uit) Alvast bedankt voor uw antwoord!

DROPS Design 26.05.2017 kl. 16:10:

Hoi Els, Je mindert 2 steken over ieder stuk waar een kabel zit in een naald op de verkeerde kant. (Alleen 2 steken minderen op het gedeelte met de kabel, dus niet ook nog naast de kabel) De 6 steken die je op de hulpndraad plaatst (hiervoor kun je ook een grote veiligheidsspeld gebruiken) brei je niet. Op die manier kun je keren en verder breien. De 6 steken worden bij het breien van de capuchon weer opgenomen.

Monica Nilsen 24.04.2017 - 21:15:

Jeg er komme opp til felling til hals høyre side.først skal jeg felle 4 masker over ytterste flette. Da gjenstår det 10 masker sett fra forsiden. så skal sette 6 ytterst på tråd.Har da igjen fire før de felte maskene over fletta, her er jeg ikke helt er med. skal jeg felle først de fire vrange og så de siste maskene på andre siden av den første fellingen over fletta? Det er noe her jeg ikke skjønner, eller er det feil i mønsteret?

DROPS Design 26.04.2017 kl. 09:06:

Hei Monica. Når du har felt de 4 masker over den ytterste fletten fra vrangen (fellingen gjør det slik at flettet trekker seg sammen), skal du ha igjen = 82-87-96-108 eller 119 masker igjen på pinnen, avhengig av hvilken størrelse du strikker. Så fra neste pinne (retten) setter du de ytterste 6-7-8 (9-9) m mot midt foran på 1 tråd til hals. Nå skal du ha 76-80-88 (99-110) m på pinnen. Videre felles det til hals på hver p fra halsen, les oppskriften. God Fornøyelse!

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