DROPS Merino Extra Fine
DROPS Merino Extra Fine
100% Wool
from 7.00 BGN /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 63.00BGN.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS SS24

Snuggly Bunny

Knitted bunting bag in moss st with textured pattern and cables in DROPS Merino Extra Fine

DROPS Baby 19-10
DROPS design: Pattern no ME-042-by
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Size: 1/3 - 6/9 - 12/18 months (2 - 3/4) years
Size in cm: 50/56- 62/68- 74/80 (86/92-98/104)

Materials: DROPS MERINO EXTRA FINE from Garnstudio
450-500-550 (650-700) g colour no 01, off-white

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 or 80 cm) size 4 mm – or size needed to get 21 sts x 28 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS WOODEN BUTTON BURNT, no 511: 10-10-10 (12-12) pcs.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Merino Extra Fine
DROPS Merino Extra Fine
100% Wool
from 7.00 BGN /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 63.00BGN.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Pattern instructions

BUNTING BAG:

GARTER ST (back and forth on needle):
K all rows.
PATTERN:
See diagram M.1 to M.3. Diagrams show the pattern from RS. First row in M.2 and M.3 = RS.
HOLE FOR SEAT BELT IN CAR SEAT:
You can make a hole on front and back piece for car seat belt. Make the hole when piece measures approx 16-20-23 (28-33) cm (or required measurements) by casting off the middle 10 sts on needle. On next row cast on 10 new sts over cast off sts and continue as before.
BUTTONHOLES:
Make buttonholes on right front band. 1 buttonhole = K tog 2nd and 3rd st from mid front and make 1 YO.
Make buttonholes when piece measures:
Size 1/3 months: 25, 30, 35, 40, 45 and 50 cm.
Size 6/9 months: 28, 34, 41, 47, 54 and 60 cm.
Size 12/18 months: 30, 38, 46, 54, 62 and 70 cm.
Size 2 years: 37, 44, 51, 58, 65, 72 and 79 cm.
Size 3/4 years: 40, 48, 57, 65, 74, 82 and 91 cm.
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BUNTING BAG:
The bag is worked in 2 parts from bottom edge and up and sewn tog afterwards. Work each part back and forth on circular needle in order to fit in all sts.
NOTE: If hole for seat belt is required – see above.

BACK PIECE:
Cast on 68-74-82 (86-94) sts (includes 1 edge st each side) on circular needle size 4 mm with Merino Extra Fine. Work GARTER ST - see above – for 4-4-4 (5-5) cm – adjust to a row from WS. P 1 row from WS and continue in M.1 with 1 edge st in garter st each side (beg with K1 after edge st). When piece measures 44-53-62 (71-82) cm cast on new sts for sleeves each side. Cast on at the end of every row as follows: 4 sts 2-2-3 (3-3) times, 8 sts 1-1-1 (1-3) times, 10 sts 1-1-1 (2-1) times and 12-14-15 (15-16) sts 1 time = 144-154-172 (196-218) sts on needle – NOTE: incorporate inc sts in M.1 as you go along - when all sts have been cast on continue M.1, but with 10 sts each side in garter st (= bottom edge of sleeves). When piece measures 54-64-74 (84-96) cm cast off the middle 16-18-22 (24-24) sts for neck and complete each shoulder/sleeve separately. Cast off 1 st on neckline on next row = 63-67-74 (85-96) sts left on needle (= shoulder + sleeve). Cast off when piece measures 56-66-76 (86-98) cm. Repeat on the other side.

FRONT PIECE:
Cast on 68-74-82 (86-94) sts and work garter st for 2-2-2 (2.5-2.5) cm, then work next row as follows from RS: K 12-13-14 (14-16) sts, * K2 tog, 1 YO, K 12-13-15 (12-13) sts *, repeat from *-* a total of 3-3-3 (4-4) times, K2 tog, 1 YO and finish with K 12-14-15 (14-16) sts (= 4-4-4 (5-5) buttonholes). Continue in garter st until edge measures 4-4-4 (5-5) cm - adjust to a row from WS. P 1 row from WS, AT THE SAME TIME inc 22 sts evenly = 90-96-104 (108-116) sts. Work next rows as follows from RS: 1 edge st, M.1 on the first 5-8-12 (14-18) sts (beg with K1 at the side to match pattern at the side to back piece), M.2 (= 32 sts), P 14 sts, M.3 (= 32 sts), M.1 on the next 5-8-12 (14-18) sts (adjust so M.1 finishes with P1 at the side before edge st to match pattern to back piece) and finish with 1 edge st. Continue in pattern like this with M.1, M.2 and M.3 and 14 sts in reverse stocking st mid front. When piece measures 23-25-28 (33-37) cm slip the first 42-45-49 (51-55) sts on a stitch holder = 48-51-55 (57-61) sts left on needle.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
= 48-51-55 (57-61) sts. Continue in pattern as before, but work the 6 sts towards mid front in garter st for front band - REMEMBER BUTTONHOLES - see above! When piece measures 44-53-62 (71-82) cm cast on new sts for sleeve at the end of every row towards the side as described for back piece = 86-91-100 (112-123) sts. When all sts have been cast on continue in pattern as before, but work the 10 sts on sleeve edge in garter st. When 1 row remain before piece measures 51-61-71 (80-92) cm – adjust so this row is from WS - dec 4 sts on the cable towards mid front (i.e. dec 2 sts over cable and 1 st each side of cable). On next row from RS slip 6-7-8 (9-9) sts towards mid front on a stitch holder for neck. Cast off to shape the neckline at the beg of every row from mid front: 2 sts 2 times and 1 st 2-2-3 (3-3) times = 70-74-81 (92-103) sts left on needle (= shoulder + sleeve). Continue in pattern as before. When 1 row remain before piece measures 56-66-76 (86-98) cm dec 7 sts evenly over sts in cables in M.3 = 63-67-74 (85-96) sts. On next row cast off all sts.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
Slip sts from stitch holder back on needle and pick up 6 sts behind the 6 garter sts on right front band = 48-51-55 (57-61) sts. Continue as described for right front piece but mirrored – NOTE: do not make buttonholes on front band.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew shoulder/over arm seams. Sew seam under sleeves and down along the side inside 1 edge st. Fold 5 cm on each sleeve edge towards RS and fasten with a couple of sts. Sew 4-4-4 (5-5) buttons at bottom of bunting bag and sew remaining buttons on left front band.

HOOD:
Pick up from RS approx 58 to 78 sts round neck (includes sts from stitch holders at front) on circular needle size 4 mm with Merino Extra Fine. K 1 row from WS, then K 1 row from RS, AT THE SAME TIME inc evenly to 85-89-93 (97-101) sts. Continue in M.1 with 6 garter sts each side - AT THE SAME TIME cast on 6 new sts at the end of the next 2 rows for folding edge = 97-101-105 (109-113) sts – work these sts in garter st. Continue in M.1 with 12 garter sts each side until hood measures 21-23-25 (27-28) cm and cast off. Fold hood double and sew tog at the top. Fold 6 garter sts round opening of hood towards RS and fasten to neckline with neat sts.

Diagram

symbols = K from RS, P from WS
symbols = P from RS, K from WS
symbols = slip 3 sts on cable needle behind piece, K3, K3 from cable needle
symbols = slip 3 sts on cable needle in front of piece, K3, K3 from cable needle
symbols = slip 2 sts on cable needle behind piece, K2, K2 from cable needle
symbols = slip 2 sts on cable needle in front of piece, K2, K2 from cable needle
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (296)

country flag Petra wrote:

Die Anleitung ist super, alle Maße stimmen und alles passt perfekt zusammen. Der Doppelkopf wölbt sich an einigen Stellen nach oben. Kann man ihn mit einem feuchten Tuch und Bügeleisen plätten?

19.07.2024 - 06:07

country flag Gunilla Wigren wrote:

Jag har köpt garn till Drops Design 19-10 Åkpåse Baby. Vad betyder de två extra raderna med tomma rutor (rätmaska) överst i M2 och M3 i stickbeskrivningen. Tacksam för svar. Mvh Gunilla Wigren

27.04.2024 - 14:07

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Gunilla. Du strikker etter diagram M.2 og M.3 og skal gjenta diagrammene i høyden. Når du har strikket 4 rader av M.2, må du starte på rad 1 når de 12 første og 8 siste maskene av M.2 skal gjentas i høyden, mens du fortsetter med de 12 midterste maskene 2 rader til, før disse maskene gjentas i høyden. Det samme gjelder M.3. Det kan også forklares med at de ytterste flettene i M.2 og M.3 gjentas på hver 4. rad, men de midterste flettene gjentas på hver 6. rad. mvh DROPS Design

29.04.2024 - 09:55

country flag Delvigne wrote:

Bonjour, je ne comprends pas comment réaliser l\'étape pour l\'encolure au côté devant? Je ne sais pas où sont ces mailles et qu\'en fait on par la suite, elles sont en attente . Ensuite où faut-il faire les diminutions?\r\nMerci de votre aide. Françoise

06.04.2024 - 19:49

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Françoise, pour le devant droit, vous mettez en attente les 6 à 9 premières mailles en début de rang sur l'endroit, puis vous rabattez les mailles pour l'encolure en début de rang sur l'endroit comme indiqué pour la taille choisie (pour le devant gauche, mettez en attente les mailles / rabattez les mailles en début de rang sur l'envers). Lorsque vous tricoterez la capuche, vous relèverez les mailles autour de l'encolure en commençant par tricoter les mailles du devant droit en attente et en terminant par les mailles en attente du devant gauche. Bon tricot!

08.04.2024 - 09:18

country flag Nicole Peever wrote:

Regarding diagrams, are all the rows read from right to left and bottom up? What do the last two rows in M2 and M3 diagrams mean

29.03.2024 - 00:58

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Nicole, diagram patterns are always showing the pattern as it would be seen from the right side of the knitted fabric. They are generally (always, unless it is otherwise explicitly stated) read from the bottom up. First row is generally from right to left. If you knit on the round subsequent rows are also read right to left. If you knit back and forth, every odd numbered row is read from right to left, every even numbered rows are read left to right. Happy Kniting.

29.03.2024 - 08:27

country flag Ulrike Schebesta wrote:

Habe noch eine Frage - Muster M1 - ist bei dem Diagramm nur die Vorderseite gemeint? Erst in der 4. R versetzt oder nach einer Rückreihe (die Rückreihen werden ja so gestrickt wie sie erscheinen!) oder wird das große Perlmuster gestrickt (weiß ich bin ein bisschen dumm - habe aber schon lange nicht mehr gestrickt)

20.03.2024 - 14:36

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Schebesta, die Diagramme zeigen alle Reihen, die Hin- sowie die Rückreihen; in diesem Video zeigen wir, wie man so ein grosses Perlmuster strickt. Viel Spaß beim Stricken!

20.03.2024 - 15:30

country flag Ulrike Schebesta wrote:

Wird das Muster M1 nur 1mal gestrickt? In der Anleitung ist nirgends ersichtlich ob die Muster immer wiederholt werden (M1, M2 und M3....)

19.03.2024 - 16:12

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Schebesta, das Diagram M.1 wird am Rückenteil bis zur Ende gestrickt. Viel Spaß beim Stricken!

20.03.2024 - 07:59

country flag Kari wrote:

Monteres den sammen på retten eller vrangen?

25.01.2024 - 15:37

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Kari, de fleste monterer fra retsiden, se vores videoer som viser hvordan man kan montere :)

31.01.2024 - 10:50

country flag Signe Arias wrote:

Hello! Sadly, the buttons seem to be out of stock, are there any alternatives you can suggest? Is it 20mm I should be looking for as an alternative? Thanks!

24.10.2023 - 14:27

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Signe Arias, these buttons are still available - find them here - just ask your DROPS store when they will have some back in stock. They can also help you finding the best matching button for your project - even per mail or telephone. Happy knitting!

24.10.2023 - 17:10

country flag Pat Lawlor wrote:

Do any of your bunting patterns come with crochet instructions

22.10.2023 - 19:58

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Pat, all of our bunting bag patterns are knitted. Happy knitting!

23.10.2023 - 00:30

country flag Lill Kristin Leth-Olsen wrote:

M2 og M3 har mønster som ligger midt , hva betyr det?

18.10.2023 - 12:26