DROPS Baby Merino
DROPS Baby Merino
 100% Wool
from 4.55 $ /50g
needles
DROPS Needles & Hooks
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 31.85$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

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Lykkeliten

Jacket, pants/jumpsuit and hat in BabyMerino

Change language:

DROPS Baby 10-11
Size: 1/3 – 6/9 – 12/18 months

Materials: DROPS Baby-Merino from Garnstudio
Jacket:
150-150-200 g color no 02, off-white
Jumpsuit:
200-200-200 g color no 02, off-white
Hat:
50-50-50 g color no 02, off-white
The whole set:
350-400-400 g color no 02, off-white

DROPS circular, pointed and double pointed needles size 2.5 mm / US 1.5

DROPS buttons no 580, off-white, 5 pcs for jacket, 4 pcs for pants

Elastic for pants

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Baby Merino
DROPS Baby Merino
 100% Wool
from 4.55 $ /50g
needles
DROPS Needles & Hooks
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 31.85$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. Convert from inches to cm here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, convert "crochet terms" here. See this pattern in British English here.
Knitting gauge: 26 sts x 52 rows with Baby-ull on needle size 2.5 mm / US 1.5 in seed sts = 10 x 10 cm / 4" x 4".

Garter sts (back and forth on needle): Knit all rows.

Seed sts:
1st row: *K1, P1*, repeat from *-*.
2nd row: P over K and K over P.
Repeat 2nd row.

Rib: *K1,P1*, repeat from *-*.

Pattern: See diagrams M.1-M.4. The diagram shows the pattern from the right side.

____________________________________________________________________

JACKET:
Back and front piece: The jacket is knitted back and forth on circular needle from mid front. Cast on 139-155-179 sts (incl 1 edge st each side towards mid front) on needle size 2.5 mm / US 1.5. Knit M.3 with edge sts in garter sts.
After M.3 knit next row as follows: 1 edge st, 5-5-5 sts of M.2A, 128-144-168 sts of M.2B, 4-4-4 sts in M.2C, 1 edge st. Knit 2 vertical repeats of M.2, 1 repeat of M.4 and finish the piece in seed sts. REMEMBER THE GAUGE!
At the same time when piece measures 14-15-17 cm / 5½"-6"-6¾" knit next row as follows: knit 32-36-42 sts (= front piece), bind off 6 sts for armhole, knit 63-71-83 sts (= back piece), bind off 6 sts for armhole, knit 32-36-42 sts (= front piece). Now complete each piece separately.

Left front: = 32-36-42 sts.
Bind off for sleeve cap on every other row: 2 sts 2-1-2 times and 1 st 4-5-6 times = 24-29-32 sts. When piece measures 21-23-25 cm / 8¼"-9"-9¾" bind off 5-6-7 sts mid front for neck and dec to shape the neckline on every other row: 2 sts 1-1-1 time and 1 st 3-4-4 times = 14-17-19 sts left on shoulder.
Bind off when piece measures 26-28-31 cm / 10¼"-11"-12¼".

Right front: = 32-36-42 sts. Continue as for left front, but mirrored.

Back: = 63-71-83 sts. Bind off for sleeve cap each side as described for front piece = 47-57-63 sts. When piece measures 25-27-30 cm / 9¾"-10½"-11¾" bind off the middle 17-21-23 sts for neck and dec 1 st on neckline on next row = 14-17-19 sts left on each shoulder. Bind off when piece measures 26-28-31 cm / 10¼"-11"-12¼".

Sleeves: Knitted back and forth on needles. Loosely cast on 40-42-44 sts on needles size 2.5 mm / US 1.5. Knit 2 cm / ¾" Rib and continue in M.1 with 1 edge st each side in garter sts. After M.1 finish sleeve in seed sts. At the same time when piece measures 5 cm / 2" inc 1 st each side a total of 10-11-12 times on every 6 row = 60-64-68 sts.
When piece measures 17-19-20 cm / 6¾"-7½"-8" bind off for sleeve cap each side on every other row: 3 sts 1-1-1 time, 2 sts 1-1-1 time and then 2 sts until sleeve measures 24-25-27 cm / 9½"-9¾"-10½". Bind off remaining sts.

Assembly: Sew shoulder seams. Pick up approx 55 to 65 sts along left front edge on needle size 2.5 mm / US 1.5. Knit M.4 and then 2 cm / ¾" Rib. Bind off in Rib. Repeat along right front edge, but after 0.5 cm / ¼" make 5 buttonholes evenly distributed on row, the bottom and top ones 1 cm / ⅜" from edges. 1 buttonhole = bind off 2 sts and cast on 2 new sts on the return row.
Pick up approx 60 to 70 sts (divisible by 2) round the neck (incl front edges) on needle size 2.5 mm / US 1.5 and knit M.1 with 2 edge sts each side in garter sts.
Knit row 7 in M.1 as follows: 2 edge sts, *K2 tog, yo", repeat from *-* and finish with K2 tog and 2 edge sts. Bind off after M.1.
Sew sleeve seams, set in sleeves and sew on buttons.

____________________________________________________________________


TROUSERS/JUMPSUIT:

Left leg:
Start mid under food and knit back and forth on circular needle.
Cast on 54-60-64 sts (incl 1 edge st each side) on circular needles size 2.5 mm / US 1.5 and knit garter sts.
When piece measures 2 cm / ¾" insert a marker and measure piece from here.
After 4-4-5 cm / 1½"-1½"-2" dec each side on every other row: 3 sts 0-1-1 time and 2 sts 3-2-2 times = 42-46-50 sts.
Distribute the sts on double pointed needles size 2.5 mm / US 1.5 and knit round in Rib. After 2 cm / ¾" continue in M.1, at the same time inc 20 sts evenly on 1st round = 62-66-70 sts.
After M.1 divide piece at inner side of leg (= split to facilitate putting legs on the same circular needle later).
Finish leg back and forth on needle and inc 1 st each side for seam = 64-68-70 sts. Continue in seed sts and inc 1 st each side on every 6 row a total of 6-8-9 times = 74-84-90 sts.
When piece measures 21-23-26 cm / 8¼"-9"-10¼" bind off 5 sts each side = 66-74-80 sts. Put the piece aside and knit the other leg.

Right leg: Cast on and knit as left leg but with the split the other side.

Body: Put both legs on the same circular needle = 132-148-160 sts. Insert a marker mid front. Continue in seed sts back and forth on needle from mid back. At the same time inc 1 st each side for seam = 134-150-162 sts. After 4 rows inc each side mid back and dec mid front (all dec and inc done from RS) as follows:
Inc mid back (each side): 1 st inside 2 edge sts on every other row a total of 8 times.
Dec mid front: K/P2 tog before marker, slip 1 st as if to K/P, K/P1, psso after marker.

Continue as follows:

Pants: When piece measures 42-46-50 cm / 16½"-18"-19¾" P 1 row from RS and knit 2 cm / ¾" stockinette sts (= casing). Bind off.

Jumpsuit: When piece measures 42-51-56 cm / 16½"-20"-22" knit M.1 with 1 edge st each side in garter sts and after M.1 finish piece in seed sts.
When piece measures 46-55-60 cm / 18"-22"-23½" bind off for armholes as follows: knit 31-35-38 sts (= half back piece), bind off 6 sts for armhole, knit 60-68-74 sts (= front piece), bind off 6 sts for armhole, knit 31-35-38 sts (= half back piece). Now finish each piece separately.

Front piece: = 60-68-74 sts. Dec for armhole each side on every other row: 2 sts 1-1-1 time and 1 st 2-3-4 times = 52-58-62 sts.
When piece measures 49-59-64 cm bind off the middle 14-16-18 sts for neck and dec to shape the neckline on every other row: 2 sts 1-1-1 time and 1 st 4-4-4 times = 13-15-16 sts left on each shoulder. When piece measures 54-64-70 cm continue in garter sts over all shoulder sts, at the same time after 2 rows make 2 buttonholes as follows: K2, bind off 2 sts, K 5-7-8 sts, bind off 2 sts, K1. On the return row cast on 2 sts over the bind off sts. Bind off after 6 rows in garter sts. Knit the other shoulder the same way.

Left back piece: = 31-35-38 sts. Dec for armhole at side as done for front piece = 27-30-32 sts. When piece measures 53-63-69 cm bind off 13-14-15 sts for neck and dec 1 st on neckline on next row = 13-15-16 sts left on shoulder. When piece measures 54-64-70 cm knit 6 rows in garter sts over all shoulder sts and bind off.

Right back piece: = 31-35-38 sts. Knit as left front piece, but reversed.

Assembly:
Pants: Sew leg seams and seam mid back. Fold casing double towards WS and insert an elastic ribbon.
Jumpsuit: Sew leg seams and seam mid back. Pick up approx 65 to 75 sts round right armhole on needle size 2.5 mm / US 1.5 and knit 4 rows garter sts. Bind off. Repeat round left armhole.
Pick up 50 to 70 sts round front neck on needle size 2.5 mm / US 1.5 and knit 4 rows garter sts. Bind off.
Pick up 35 to 50 sts round back neck on needle size 2.5 mm / US 1.5 and knit 4 rows garter sts. Bind off. Sew on buttons.

Sew the seam under foot from the heel and up over the toes, sew inside 1 edge st. Sew on the buttons.

____________________________________________________________________

HAT:

To fit head circumference: 41-44-47 cm / 16"-17¼"-18½"

Cast on 75-91-99 sts on needle size 2.5 and knit M.3. After M.3 knit next row as follows: 1 garter st, 5 sts of M.2A, 64-80-88 sts in M.2B, 4 sts in M.2C, 1 garter sts. Knit 1 vertical repeat of M.2 and finish piece in seed sts.
When piece measures 10-11-12 cm / 4"-4½"-4¾" bind off 24-31-34 sts each side and continue in seed sts over the middle 27-29-31 sts until piece measures 20-22-24 cm / 8"-8¾"-9½". Bind off. Sew the piece mid back to side pieces.
Pick up approx 80 to 90 sts along lower edge and knit M.1 with 2 edge sts in garter sts each side.
Knit row 7 in M.1 as follows: 2 edge sts, *K2 tog, yo", repeat from *-* and finish with K2 tog and 2 edge sts. Bind off after M.1.
Cut a strand of yarn measuring approx 3 meters/3.2 yds, fold it double, twist into a ribbon and pull through row of holes on bottom edge

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = K
symbols = P
symbols = K2 tog, 1 yo
symbols = 1 yo, slip 1 st as if to knit, K1, psso
symbols = 1 yo, slip 1 st as if to knit, K2 tog, psso, 1 yo
diagram
diagram
diagram
© 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights.
What can you do with our patterns? You can share DROPS patterns online, using the pattern original picture, materials, name and number. But you are NOT ALLOWED to reproduce the complete pattern digitally in any way. Yarn stores are welcome to use the DROPS pattern database to promote the sale of our assortment. You can print out our patterns, make as many copies as you’d like. The only thing we ask is that you don't make any changes / additions to the original printed document. And that the patterns according to the DROPS philosophy are given out to the consumers for free. Editorials that wish to publish our patterns in printed books or magazines can contact us for more information. The sale of garments based on DROPS patterns is permitted as long as they are sold as single items or per order. Further commercial use of the patterns is not permitted. It has to be clearly stated that the garment is made based on a design from DROPS DESIGN. The use of clothing labels of which DROPS DESIGN forms part is conditioned by the inclusion of the following text: “A DROPS DESIGN made by …..”. The use of DROPS photos for marketing purposes/sales is only permitted in connection with the use/sale of DROPS products. The photos may not be cut or edited and the logo should be clearly visible.
We reserve the right to withdraw the permission for use of our patterns at any time, notwithstanding the reason.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.  

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!
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Comments / Questions (115)

country flag Jousselin wrote:

Bonjour, Je tricote le gilet Lykkeliten (T. 1/3mois) avec le fil et les aiguilles suggérés. Mon échantillon est trop petit d'un cm, et pourtant quand je tricote, le bas de mon gilet mesure 36cm au lieu de 26. Je ne comprends pas . pouvez-vous m'aider? Merci

12.11.2024 - 19:06

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Jousselin, si votre échantillon était juste en largeur, vous devriez avoir 26 cm en largeur lorsque vous posez le gilet comme porté (les devants l'un contre l'autre, posés sur le dos). Si l'ouvrage est plus large, votre tension a dû changer entre votre échantillon et l'ouvrage peut-être en raison du nombre de mailles. Essayez de coller à l'échantillon le plus possible, c'est ce qui vous permettra d'obtenir les bonnes mesures à la fin. Bon tricot!

13.11.2024 - 07:45

country flag Jokima wrote:

Bonsoir, Je tricote la jambe gauche, j’ai diminué 3x2m. de chaque côté, pouvez-vous me confirmer que ces diminutions marquent le dessus du pied? Si tel est le cas, la couture va se trouver sur le dessus du pied et non pas à l’intérieur de la jambe, dois-je décaler le départ du rang au moment de la division , si oui combien de mailles pour la taille 1/3? Merci pour votre réponse

24.10.2024 - 23:39

country flag Jokima wrote:

Bonsoir, Je commence le pantalon, pouvez-vous me préciser si je dois tricoter 4cm de hauteur totale ou 4 cm depuis le fil marqueur, soit 6 cm de hauteur totale? Merci pour votre réponse.

23.10.2024 - 02:40

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Jokima, pour le pantalon, commencez à augmenter à 4 cm de hauteur totale (dans les 2 premières tailles), autrement dit, 2 cm après avoir mis le marqueur. Bon tricot!

23.10.2024 - 08:42

country flag Carol McMillan wrote:

Size 1-3 months When decreasing for the Sleeve Cap starting with 60 sts. I decreased 3 sts , then 2 sts that brought me down to 50 sts (3x2, 2x2) I then decreased 2 sts each row (RS+ WS). The problem is if I keep the decreases even I'm left with 2 sts at 22.5 cm not the required 24 sts. Also my cap looks lik a triangle and in the schematic it looks like the cap is long and flat. Please Help!!!

21.07.2024 - 01:25

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Carol, there is a mistake in the UK version of the pattern. You decrease to 50, then cast off 1 st 11 times (every 2nd row on each side, as before) and then cast off 2 sts until piece measures 24cm, where you will cast off all the remaining stitch in the same row. Then you will have the correct sleeve cap. We will correct the pattern as soon as possible. Happy knitting!

27.07.2024 - 19:12

country flag Hanna wrote:

Neulon lahjetta. Ohjeessa sanotaan että 2 cm koustinen ja M.1 jälkeen jaa työ lahkeen sisäreunasta. En ymmärrä mistä kohtaa

17.07.2024 - 10:40

DROPS Design answered:

Hei, lahkeen sisäreuna on työn toisessa sivussa (molemmat sivut ovat samanlaiset).

18.07.2024 - 16:58

country flag Lene wrote:

Der er fejl i M3. Diagrammet viser retstrikning, men på billedet er alle pinde strikket ret. Det vil være en hjælp, hvis I retter det.

13.07.2024 - 09:36

country flag Petra Lange wrote:

Hebben jullie ook baby en kinder brei boeken

12.07.2024 - 11:25

country flag Lykke wrote:

Når man ser på diagrammerne ses de fra retsiden. Spørgsmål vedr. M2 f.eks.: Første pind strikkes fra retsiden med ret masker (blank firkant) Anden pind strikkes fra vrangen (kryds i firkant) skal det så være vrangmasker så det bliver glatstrikning, eller skal det være retmasker strikket fra vrangsiden.

08.07.2024 - 11:16

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Lykke. Mønsteret i diagrammerne ses fra retsiden. Så når du skal strikke etter M.3 strikker du på 1.rad (retten), rettmasker, på 2. rad (vrangen) strikker du slik at det blir vrangmasker du ser på rettsiden (altså, du strikker disse maskene rett). Så alle pinnen i M.3 strikkes rett. mvh DROPS Design

09.07.2024 - 14:12

country flag UTE ENCZMANN wrote:

Wo gibt es die Knöpfe zu der Babyjacke zu kaufen und wie groß ist der Durchmesser der Knöpfe

06.07.2024 - 21:04

country flag Hanna wrote:

Myöskin M.4 puuttuu

04.07.2024 - 16:16

DROPS Design answered:

Piirrokset M.3 ja M.4 ovat osaa piirroksen M.1 mallineuletta.

05.07.2024 - 12:28

Lykkeliten



Jacket, pants/jumpsuit and hat in BabyMerino

DROPS Baby 10-11
Size: 1/3 – 6/9 – 12/18 months

Materials: DROPS Baby-Merino from Garnstudio
Jacket:
150-150-200 g color no 02, off-white
Jumpsuit:
200-200-200 g color no 02, off-white
Hat:
50-50-50 g color no 02, off-white
The whole set:
350-400-400 g color no 02, off-white

DROPS circular, pointed and double pointed needles size 2.5 mm / US 1.5

DROPS buttons no 580, off-white, 5 pcs for jacket, 4 pcs for pants

Elastic for pants

Knitting gauge: 26 sts x 52 rows with Baby-ull on needle size 2.5 mm / US 1.5 in seed sts = 10 x 10 cm / 4" x 4".

Garter sts (back and forth on needle): Knit all rows.

Seed sts:
1st row: *K1, P1*, repeat from *-*.
2nd row: P over K and K over P.
Repeat 2nd row.

Rib: *K1,P1*, repeat from *-*.

Pattern: See diagrams M.1-M.4. The diagram shows the pattern from the right side.

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JACKET:
Back and front piece: The jacket is knitted back and forth on circular needle from mid front. Cast on 139-155-179 sts (incl 1 edge st each side towards mid front) on needle size 2.5 mm / US 1.5. Knit M.3 with edge sts in garter sts.
After M.3 knit next row as follows: 1 edge st, 5-5-5 sts of M.2A, 128-144-168 sts of M.2B, 4-4-4 sts in M.2C, 1 edge st. Knit 2 vertical repeats of M.2, 1 repeat of M.4 and finish the piece in seed sts. REMEMBER THE GAUGE!
At the same time when piece measures 14-15-17 cm / 5½"-6"-6¾" knit next row as follows: knit 32-36-42 sts (= front piece), bind off 6 sts for armhole, knit 63-71-83 sts (= back piece), bind off 6 sts for armhole, knit 32-36-42 sts (= front piece). Now complete each piece separately.

Left front: = 32-36-42 sts.
Bind off for sleeve cap on every other row: 2 sts 2-1-2 times and 1 st 4-5-6 times = 24-29-32 sts. When piece measures 21-23-25 cm / 8¼"-9"-9¾" bind off 5-6-7 sts mid front for neck and dec to shape the neckline on every other row: 2 sts 1-1-1 time and 1 st 3-4-4 times = 14-17-19 sts left on shoulder.
Bind off when piece measures 26-28-31 cm / 10¼"-11"-12¼".

Right front: = 32-36-42 sts. Continue as for left front, but mirrored.

Back: = 63-71-83 sts. Bind off for sleeve cap each side as described for front piece = 47-57-63 sts. When piece measures 25-27-30 cm / 9¾"-10½"-11¾" bind off the middle 17-21-23 sts for neck and dec 1 st on neckline on next row = 14-17-19 sts left on each shoulder. Bind off when piece measures 26-28-31 cm / 10¼"-11"-12¼".

Sleeves: Knitted back and forth on needles. Loosely cast on 40-42-44 sts on needles size 2.5 mm / US 1.5. Knit 2 cm / ¾" Rib and continue in M.1 with 1 edge st each side in garter sts. After M.1 finish sleeve in seed sts. At the same time when piece measures 5 cm / 2" inc 1 st each side a total of 10-11-12 times on every 6 row = 60-64-68 sts.
When piece measures 17-19-20 cm / 6¾"-7½"-8" bind off for sleeve cap each side on every other row: 3 sts 1-1-1 time, 2 sts 1-1-1 time and then 2 sts until sleeve measures 24-25-27 cm / 9½"-9¾"-10½". Bind off remaining sts.

Assembly: Sew shoulder seams. Pick up approx 55 to 65 sts along left front edge on needle size 2.5 mm / US 1.5. Knit M.4 and then 2 cm / ¾" Rib. Bind off in Rib. Repeat along right front edge, but after 0.5 cm / ¼" make 5 buttonholes evenly distributed on row, the bottom and top ones 1 cm / ⅜" from edges. 1 buttonhole = bind off 2 sts and cast on 2 new sts on the return row.
Pick up approx 60 to 70 sts (divisible by 2) round the neck (incl front edges) on needle size 2.5 mm / US 1.5 and knit M.1 with 2 edge sts each side in garter sts.
Knit row 7 in M.1 as follows: 2 edge sts, *K2 tog, yo", repeat from *-* and finish with K2 tog and 2 edge sts. Bind off after M.1.
Sew sleeve seams, set in sleeves and sew on buttons.

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TROUSERS/JUMPSUIT:

Left leg:
Start mid under food and knit back and forth on circular needle.
Cast on 54-60-64 sts (incl 1 edge st each side) on circular needles size 2.5 mm / US 1.5 and knit garter sts.
When piece measures 2 cm / ¾" insert a marker and measure piece from here.
After 4-4-5 cm / 1½"-1½"-2" dec each side on every other row: 3 sts 0-1-1 time and 2 sts 3-2-2 times = 42-46-50 sts.
Distribute the sts on double pointed needles size 2.5 mm / US 1.5 and knit round in Rib. After 2 cm / ¾" continue in M.1, at the same time inc 20 sts evenly on 1st round = 62-66-70 sts.
After M.1 divide piece at inner side of leg (= split to facilitate putting legs on the same circular needle later).
Finish leg back and forth on needle and inc 1 st each side for seam = 64-68-70 sts. Continue in seed sts and inc 1 st each side on every 6 row a total of 6-8-9 times = 74-84-90 sts.
When piece measures 21-23-26 cm / 8¼"-9"-10¼" bind off 5 sts each side = 66-74-80 sts. Put the piece aside and knit the other leg.

Right leg: Cast on and knit as left leg but with the split the other side.

Body: Put both legs on the same circular needle = 132-148-160 sts. Insert a marker mid front. Continue in seed sts back and forth on needle from mid back. At the same time inc 1 st each side for seam = 134-150-162 sts. After 4 rows inc each side mid back and dec mid front (all dec and inc done from RS) as follows:
Inc mid back (each side): 1 st inside 2 edge sts on every other row a total of 8 times.
Dec mid front: K/P2 tog before marker, slip 1 st as if to K/P, K/P1, psso after marker.

Continue as follows:

Pants: When piece measures 42-46-50 cm / 16½"-18"-19¾" P 1 row from RS and knit 2 cm / ¾" stockinette sts (= casing). Bind off.

Jumpsuit: When piece measures 42-51-56 cm / 16½"-20"-22" knit M.1 with 1 edge st each side in garter sts and after M.1 finish piece in seed sts.
When piece measures 46-55-60 cm / 18"-22"-23½" bind off for armholes as follows: knit 31-35-38 sts (= half back piece), bind off 6 sts for armhole, knit 60-68-74 sts (= front piece), bind off 6 sts for armhole, knit 31-35-38 sts (= half back piece). Now finish each piece separately.

Front piece: = 60-68-74 sts. Dec for armhole each side on every other row: 2 sts 1-1-1 time and 1 st 2-3-4 times = 52-58-62 sts.
When piece measures 49-59-64 cm bind off the middle 14-16-18 sts for neck and dec to shape the neckline on every other row: 2 sts 1-1-1 time and 1 st 4-4-4 times = 13-15-16 sts left on each shoulder. When piece measures 54-64-70 cm continue in garter sts over all shoulder sts, at the same time after 2 rows make 2 buttonholes as follows: K2, bind off 2 sts, K 5-7-8 sts, bind off 2 sts, K1. On the return row cast on 2 sts over the bind off sts. Bind off after 6 rows in garter sts. Knit the other shoulder the same way.

Left back piece: = 31-35-38 sts. Dec for armhole at side as done for front piece = 27-30-32 sts. When piece measures 53-63-69 cm bind off 13-14-15 sts for neck and dec 1 st on neckline on next row = 13-15-16 sts left on shoulder. When piece measures 54-64-70 cm knit 6 rows in garter sts over all shoulder sts and bind off.

Right back piece: = 31-35-38 sts. Knit as left front piece, but reversed.

Assembly:
Pants: Sew leg seams and seam mid back. Fold casing double towards WS and insert an elastic ribbon.
Jumpsuit: Sew leg seams and seam mid back. Pick up approx 65 to 75 sts round right armhole on needle size 2.5 mm / US 1.5 and knit 4 rows garter sts. Bind off. Repeat round left armhole.
Pick up 50 to 70 sts round front neck on needle size 2.5 mm / US 1.5 and knit 4 rows garter sts. Bind off.
Pick up 35 to 50 sts round back neck on needle size 2.5 mm / US 1.5 and knit 4 rows garter sts. Bind off. Sew on buttons.

Sew the seam under foot from the heel and up over the toes, sew inside 1 edge st. Sew on the buttons.

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HAT:

To fit head circumference: 41-44-47 cm / 16"-17¼"-18½"

Cast on 75-91-99 sts on needle size 2.5 and knit M.3. After M.3 knit next row as follows: 1 garter st, 5 sts of M.2A, 64-80-88 sts in M.2B, 4 sts in M.2C, 1 garter sts. Knit 1 vertical repeat of M.2 and finish piece in seed sts.
When piece measures 10-11-12 cm / 4"-4½"-4¾" bind off 24-31-34 sts each side and continue in seed sts over the middle 27-29-31 sts until piece measures 20-22-24 cm / 8"-8¾"-9½". Bind off. Sew the piece mid back to side pieces.
Pick up approx 80 to 90 sts along lower edge and knit M.1 with 2 edge sts in garter sts each side.
Knit row 7 in M.1 as follows: 2 edge sts, *K2 tog, yo", repeat from *-* and finish with K2 tog and 2 edge sts. Bind off after M.1.
Cut a strand of yarn measuring approx 3 meters/3.2 yds, fold it double, twist into a ribbon and pull through row of holes on bottom edge

Diagram explanations
symbol = K
symbol = P
symbol = K2 tog, 1 yo
symbol = 1 yo, slip 1 st as if to knit, K1, psso
symbol = 1 yo, slip 1 st as if to knit, K2 tog, psso, 1 yo

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