DROPS Baby / 10 / 11

DROPS Baby 10-11 by DROPS Design

Jacket, trousers/jumpsuit and hat in BabyMerino

Size: 1/3 – 6/9 – 12/18 months
Size in cm: 50/56 – 62/68 – 74/80

Materials: DROPS Baby Merino from Garnstudio
Jacket:
150-150-200 g colour no 02, off-white
Jumpsuit:
200-200-200 g colour no 02, off-white
Hat:
50-50-50 g colour no 02, off-white
The whole set:
350-400-400 g colour no 02, off-white

DROPS circular, pointed and double pointed needles size 2.5 mm
DROPS buttons no 580, off-white, 5 pcs for jacket, 4 pcs for trousers
Elastic for trousers

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Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!

100% Wool
from 3.10 £ /50g
DROPS Baby Merino uni colour DROPS Baby Merino uni colour 3.10 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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DROPS Baby Merino mix DROPS Baby Merino mix 3.10 £ /50g
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DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 21.70£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
Knitting tension: 26 sts x 52 rows with Baby-ull on needle size 2.5 mm in moss sts = 10 x 10 cm.

Garter sts (back and forth on needle): Knit all rows.

Moss sts: 1st row: *K1, P1*, repeat from *-*. 2nd row: P over K and K over P. Repeat 2nd row.

Rib: *K1,P1*, repeat from *-*.

Pattern: See diagrams M.1-M.4. The diagram shows the pattern from the right side.

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JACKET:
Back and front piece: The jacket is knitted back and forth on circular needle from mid front. Cast on 139-155-179 sts (incl 1 edge st each side towards mid front) on needle size 2.5 mm. Knit M.3 with edge sts in garter sts. After M.3 knit next row as follows: 1 edge st, 5-5-5 sts of M.2A, 128-144-168 sts of M.2B, 4-4-4 sts in M.2C, 1 edge st. Knit 2 vertical repeats of M.2, 1 repeat of M.4 and finish the piece in moss sts. Remember the knitting tension! At the same time when piece measures 14-15-17 cm knit next row as follows: knit 32-36-42 sts (= front piece), cast off 6 sts for armhole, knit 63-71-83 sts (= back piece), cast off 6 sts for armhole, knit 32-36-42 sts (= front piece). Now complete each piece separately.

Left front: = 32-36-42 sts. Cast off for sleeve cap on every other row: 2 sts 2-1-2 times and 1 st 4-5-6 times = 24-29-32 sts. When piece measures 21-23-25 cm cast off 5-6-7 sts mid front for neck and dec to shape the neckline on every other row: 2 sts 1-1-1 time and 1 st 3-4-4 times = 14-17-19 sts left on shoulder. Cast off when piece measures 26-28-31 cm.

Right front: = 32-36-42 sts. Continue as for left front, but mirrored.

Back: = 63-71-83 sts. Cast off for sleeve cap each side as described for front piece = 47-57-63 sts. When piece measures 25-27-30 cm cast off the middle 17-21-23 sts for neck and dec 1 st on neckline on next row = 14-17-19 sts left on each shoulder. Cast off when piece measures 26-28-31 cm.

Sleeves: Knitted back and forth on needles. Loosely cast on 40-42-44 sts on needles size 2.5 mm. Knit 2 cm Rib and continue in M.1 with 1 edge st each side in garter sts. After M.1 finish sleeve in moss sts. At the same time when piece measures 5 cm inc 1 st each side a total of 10-11-12 times on every 6 row = 60-64-68 sts. When piece measures 17-19-20 cm cast off for sleeve cap each side on every other row: 3 sts 1-1-1 time, 2 sts 1-1-1 time and then 2 sts until sleeve measures 24-25-27 cm. Cast off remaining sts.

Assembly: Sew shoulder seams. Pick up approx 55 to 65 sts along left front edge on needle size 2.5 mm. Knit M.4 and then 2 cm Rib. Cast off in Rib. Repeat along right front edge, but after 0.5 cm make 5 buttonholes evenly distributed on row, the bottom and top ones 1 cm from edges. 1 buttonhole = cast off 2 sts and cast on 2 new sts on the return row. Pick up approx 60 to 70 sts (divisible by 2) round the neck (incl front edges) on needle size 2.5 mm and knit M.1 with 2 edge sts each side in garter sts. Knit row 7 in M.1 as follows: 2 edge sts, *K2 tog, yo”, repeat from *-* and finish with K2 tog and 2 edge sts. Cast off after M.1. Sew sleeve seams, set in sleeves and sew on buttons.

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TROUSERS/JUMPSUIT:

Left leg:
Start mid under food and knit back and forth on circular needle.
Cast on 54-60-64 sts (incl 1 edge st each side) on circular needles size 2.5 mm and knit garter sts. When piece measures 2 cm insert a marker and measure piece from here.
After 4-4-5 cm dec each side on every other row: 3 sts 0-1-1 time and 2 sts 3-2-2 times = 42-46-50 sts.
Distribute the sts on double pointed needles size 2.5 mm and knit round in Rib. After 2 cm continue in M.1, at the same time inc 20 sts evenly on 1st round = 62-66-70 sts.
After M.1 divide piece at inner side of leg (= split to facilitate putting legs on the same circular needle later).
Finish leg back and forth on needle and inc 1 st each side for seam = 64-68-72 sts. Continue in moss sts and inc 1 st each side on every 6 row a total of 6-8-9 times = 74-84-90 sts.
When piece measures 21-23-26 cm cast off 5 sts each side = 66-74-80 sts. Put the piece aside and knit the other leg.

Right leg: Cast on and knit as left leg but with the split the other side.

Body: Put both legs on the same circular needle = 132-148-160 sts. Insert a marker mid front. Continue in moss sts back and forth on needle from mid back. At the same time inc 1 st each side for seam = 134-150-162 sts. After 4 rows inc each side mid back and dec mid front (all dec and inc done from RS) as follows:
Inc mid back (each side): 1 st inside 2 edge sts on every other row a total of 8 times.
Dec mid front: K/P2 tog before MT, slip 1 st as if to K/P, K/P1, psso after marker.

Continue as follows:

Trousers: When piece measures 42-46-50 cm P 1 row from RS and knit 2 cm stocking sts (= casing). Cast off.

Jumpsuit: When piece measures 42-51-56 cm knit M.1 with 1 edge st each side in garter sts and after M.1 finish piece in moss sts.
When piece measures 46-55-60 cm cast off for armholes as follows: knit 31-35-38 sts (= half back piece), cast off 6 sts for armhole, knit 60-68-74 sts (= front piece), cast off 6 sts for armhole, knit 31-35-38 sts (= half back piece). Now finish each piece separately.

Front piece: = 60-68-74 sts. Dec for armhole each side on every other row: 2 sts 1-1-1 time and 1 st 2-3-4 times = 52-58-62 sts. When piece measures 49-59-64 cm cast off the middle 14-16-18 sts for neck and dec to shape the neckline on every other row: 2 sts 1-1-1 time and 1 st 4-4-4 times = 13-15-16 sts left on each shoulder. When piece measures 54-64-70 cm continue in garter sts over all shoulder sts, at the same time after 2 rows make 2 buttonholes as follows: K2, cast off 2 sts, K 5-7-8 sts, cast off 2 sts, K1. On the return row cast on 2 sts over the cast off sts. Cast off after 6 rows in garter sts. Knit the other shoulder the same way.

Left back piece: = 31-35-38 sts. Dec for armhole at side as done for front piece = 27-30-32 sts. When piece measures 53-63-69 cm cast off 13-14-15 sts for neck and dec 1 st on neckline on next row = 13-15-16 sts left on shoulder. When piece measures 54-64-70 cm knit 6 rows in garter sts over all shoulder sts and cast off.

Right back piece: = 31-35-38 sts. Knit as left front piece, but reversed.

Assembly:
Trousers: Sew leg seams and seam mid back. Fold casing double towards WS and insert an elastic ribbon.
Jumpsuit: Sew leg seams and seam mid back. Pick up approx 65 to 75 sts round right armhole on needle size 2.5 mm and knit 4 rows garter sts. Cast off. Repeat round left armhole. Pick up 50 to 70 sts round front neck on needle size 2.5 mm and knit 4 rows garter sts. Cast off. Pick up 35 to 50 sts round back neck on needle size 2.5 mm and knit 4 rows garter sts. Cast off. Sew on buttons.

Sew the seam under foot from the heel and up over the toes, sew inside 1 edge st. Sew on the buttons.

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HAT:

To fit head circumference: 41-44-47 cm

Cast on 75-91-99 sts on needle size 2.5 and knit M.3. After M.3 knit next row as follows: 1 garter st, 5 sts of M.2A, 64-80-88 sts in M.2B, 4 sts in M.2C, 1 garter sts. Knit 1 vertical repeat of M.2 and finish piece in moss sts. When piece measures 10-11-12 cm cast off 24-31-34 sts each side and continue in moss sts over the middle 27-29-31 sts until piece measures 20-22-24 cm. Cast off. Sew the piece mid back to side pieces. Pick up approx 80 to 90 sts along lower edge and knit M.1 with 2 edge sts in garter sts each side. Knit row 7 in M.1 as follows: 2 edge sts, *K2 tog, yo”, repeat from *-* and finish with K2 tog and 2 edge sts. Cast off after M.1. Cut a thread measuring approx 3 meters, fold it double, twist into a ribbon and pull through row of holes on bottom edge

Diagram

= K
= P
= K2 tog, 1 yo
= 1 yo, slip 1 st as if to knit, K1, psso
= 1 yo, slip 1 st as if to knit, K2 tog, psso, 1 yo



Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS Baby 10-11) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (85)

Linda 06.12.2020 - 22:09:

Hej. Jeg undrer bare om oplægningen er den første pinde? Eller om vrangsider er den 1 pind? Det er mange gange forskel på opskrifterne. Jeg vil synes at oplægningen er den første pinde. Vh Linda

DROPS Design 09.12.2020 kl. 15:06:

Hei Linda. Som regel legger man opp og deretter strikker man første pinne fra retten. I noen oppskrifter kan det stå f.eks Legg opp x antall masker og strikke 1. pinne (= vrangen). Så dette kan variere. Står det ikke noe spesifikk i oppskriften eller det vises med diagrammer, er nok 1. pinne fra retten, ikke oppleggsmaskene. mvh DROPS design

Sigrun 13.08.2020 - 18:07:

Utrulig uforståelig mønster..strikker jakken å etter fjerde forsøk knekte jeg koden her på bolen. Skulle stått at man skal strikke vrang på pinne 2 -4-6 osv Har strikket i over 40 år så er ikke nybegynner.

Turid Eriksen 24.07.2020 - 10:28:

Vedr. de 60-70 maskene som skal plukkes opp rundt halsen: Når M1 er ferdigstrikket, skal denne brettes ned som en krave? Det er jo viktig å vite når man begynner på denne halskanten, så retten på mønsteret kommer der den skal være.

DROPS Design 04.08.2020 kl. 11:09:

Hej Turid, hvis du vælger at brette den ned som en krave, så gør det mod vrangen, så du får retsiden ud. God fornøjelse!

Mia Eeg Lundberg 16.05.2020 - 11:50:

Hei, jeg forstår ikke hvordan jeg skal sy sammen under føttene? Jeg ser dere henviser til montering, men forklaringen der gir ingen mening. Disse to ekstra cm som vi startet med på foten, skal de bare ligge løst som en klumt inne i sokken? Noen som kan hjelpe meg?

DROPS Design 19.05.2020 kl. 08:12:

Hei Mia, Du syr i den ytterste løkken av den ytterste masken, slik at sømmen blir flat. God fornøyelse!

Isabel 19.04.2020 - 20:40:

Perfectamente aclarada la duda anterior. Gracias. Pero tengo otra duda. Una vez hechos los 11 cm de la pieza del gorro, los 31 puntos restante del centro que tengo que tejer, hay que hacer un punto de musgo de orillo al principio y al final de la vuelta o no es necesario??? Muchas gracias

DROPS Design 04.11.2020 kl. 18:26:

Hola Isabel! Haces un punto de musgo de orillo al principio y al final de la vuelta. Buen trabajo!

Isabel 12.04.2020 - 11:36:

Estoy haciendo el gorro y tengo una duda. Según la foto, la zona con el dibujo se aprecia que dentro de los « rombos » es punto jersey pero si se siguen las indicaciones no queda punto jersey porque tanto a la ida como a la vuelta se trabaja con punto derecho. Pueden explicarme??!!

DROPS Design 12.04.2020 kl. 17:06:

Hola Isabel. Exacto, dentro de los rombos es punto jersey. En las explicaciones antes del patrón hay una nota que indica: "Los diagramas muestran el patrón por el lado derecho". Es decir, en el diagrama el cuadrado blanco se debe trabajar de la siguiente manera: derecho por el lado derecho, revés por el lado revés.

Eva Juhl 11.02.2020 - 08:38:

Jeres svar på mig spørgsmål om sokken om at jeg skal kigge under montering. Det svar kan jeg ikke rigtig bruge til noget. Der har jeg selvfølgelig kigget Jeg kan af opskriften og strikketøjet ikke se der kan blive en sok Kan I sende mig et billede på hvordan den skal syes sammen så det bliver en sok

Eva Nielsen 05.02.2020 - 10:10:

Jeg har nu strikket det ene ben og jeg kan ikke se hvordan det nederste kan blive til en "sko".Kan I hjælpe?

DROPS Design 10.02.2020 kl. 16:57:

Hej Eva, se nederst under monteringen hvordan du syr sammen under foden. God fornøjelse!

Simona 03.11.2019 - 08:50:

Hallo, Die erste Frage: ich habe sehr flauschiges Garn , 252m/ 25g. Wie rechne ich die Anleitung um? Und zweite Frage:sie schreiben:"M.1 mit 2 Randm. in Krausrippen auf jeder Seite stricken – auf der 7. Ndl von M.1 so stricken: 2 M in Krausrippen, * 2 re zusammen, 1 Umschlag *, von *-* " Welche 7. Nadel? Vielen Dank

DROPS Design 04.11.2019 kl. 16:44:

Liebe Simona, am besten wenden Sie sich bitte an den Laden, wo Sie Ihr Garn gekauft haben. Mit 7. Nadel ist hier 7. Reihe gemeint, Deutsche Anleitung wird angepasst. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Poet24 28.04.2019 - 22:38:

Il n'y aurait pas une inversion dans la légende entre end et env ? Si je prends m2 pour moi les rangs pairs se faisaient à l'envers sauf que votre schema dit end ... du coup je pense que ce que j'ai fait sur m3 est faux puisque sur l'endroit du travail j'ai quatre rangs jersey puis un rang envers et m2... Je sais pas trop comment poursuivre après m2 maintenant

DROPS Design 29.04.2019 kl. 10:46:

Bonjour Poet24, les diagrammes montrent tous les rangs des diagrammes vus sur l'endroit, ainsi dans M.2, pour avoir 1 m end vu sur l'endroit, on va tricoter les rangs envers en jersey envers. Dans M.3 et M.4, les rangs avec 1 croix doivent être à l'envers, vu sur l'endroit = au 2ème rang de A.2 (= envers), on va tricoter les mailles à l'endroit sur l'envers pour qu'elles soient à l'envers, vu sur l'endroit. Bon tricot!

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