Comfy Caramel Trousers by DROPS Design

Knitted trousers in DROPS Alaska. The piece is worked top down in stockinette stitch. Sizes S - XXXL.

DROPS 237-15
DROPS Design: Pattern x-479
Yarn group C or A + A

S - M - L - XL - XXL – XXXL

Finished measurements:
Waist measurements: 70-76-84-90-98-104 cm = 27 1/2"-29 1/2"-33"-35 1/2"-38 1/2"-41"
Full length: 103-106-109-112-115-118 cm = 40 1/2"-41 3/4"-43"-44"-45 1/4"-46 1/2"
All measurements in charts are in cm.

DROPS ALASKA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
750-800-900-1000-1100-1200 g color 66, toffee

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 5 MM = US 8: Length 40 cm = 16” and 60 cm = 24”.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4 MM = US 6: Length 40 cm = 16” and 60 cm = 24”.
The technique MAGIC LOOP can be used – you then only need circular needle of 80 cm = 32” in each size.

17 stitches in width and 22 rows in height with stockinette stitch = 10 x 10 cm = 4” x 4”.
NOTE: Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a smaller needle size.


Magic loop – See the technique here
Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here


100% Wool
from 2.60 $ /50g
DROPS Alaska uni colour DROPS Alaska uni colour 2.60 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
DROPS Alaska mix DROPS Alaska mix 2.60 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 39.00$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.


Increase by making 1 yarn over before/after marker/marker-stitch as described in the text. On the next round work yarn overs as follows:
Slip the yarn over onto the right needle as if to knit, place it back on the left needle twisted, knit the front of the yarn over (it twists to the right). No hole.
Knit the back of the yarn over (it twists to the left). No hole.
Work the increased stitches in stockinette stitch.

DECREASE TIP (for legs):
Work until there are 6 stitches left before the marker, knit 2 together, knit 8 (marker sits in the middle of these 8 stitches), slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch.

Due to the weight of the yarn, all measurements are taken when holding the piece up, or it will be too long when worn.




The piece is worked in the round on circular needle, from mid-back and top down. An elevation is worked mid-back, so the piece is higher at the back. Continue working in the round before dividing for the legs, which are then continued in the round separately. A twisted cord for the waist is worked to finish.

Cast on 120-128-144-152-168-176 stitches with circular needle size 4 MM = US 6 and DROPS Alaska. Knit 1 round then work rib in the round as follows: Knit 1, * purl 2, knit 2 *, work from *-* until there are 3 stitches left, purl 2 and knit 1.
When the rib measures 3 cm = 1 1/8", work a row of holes as follows: Knit 1, * 1 yarn over, purl 2 together, knit 2 *, work from *-* until there are 3 stitches left, 1 yarn over, purl 2 together and knit 1.
Continue the rib (knit 2, purl 2) until the piece measures 6-6-6-7-7-7 cm = 2 3/8"-2 3/8"-2 3/8"-2 3/4"-2 3/4"-2 3/4" from the cast-on edge.
Knit 1 round and increase 6-6-4-10-6-6 stitches evenly spaced = 126-134-148-162-174-182 stitches.

Change to circular needle size 5 MM = US 8.
Insert 1 marker at the beginning of the round = mid-back. Work an elevation as follows:
Start at the marker from the right side, knit 7-8-9-10-11-12, turn, tighten the strand, purl 14-16-18-20-22-24, turn, tighten the strand, knit 21-24-27-30-33-36, turn, tighten the strand, purl 28-32-36-40-44-48.
Continue back and forth, working 7-8-9-10-11-12 more stitches at the end of each row on each side, until you have worked 84-96-108-120-132-144 stitches (the middle 42-38-40-42-42-38 stitches mid-front are not worked).
When the elevation is finished, knit to mid-back. The trousers are 5 cm = 2" higher at the back than at the front.

Insert 6 markers, which will be used when increasing, as follows.
Marker 1 at the beginning of the round, count 23-24-27-30-32-33 stitches, insert marker 2 before the next stitch, count 17-19-20-21-23-25 stitches, insert marker 3 before the next stitch, count 23-24-27-30-32-33 stitches, insert marker 4 before the next stitch, (mid-front), count 23-24-27-30-32-33 stitches, insert marker 5 before the next stitch, count 17-19-20-21-23-25 stitches, insert marker 6 before the next stitch, there are 23-24-27-30-32-33 stitches left after the last marker.
Work in the round, in stockinette stitch. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE!
When the piece measures 3 cm = 1 1/8" after the rib mid-front, increase 1 stitch BEFORE each marker – read INCREASE TIP (= 6 stitches increased).
When the piece measures 6 cm = 2 3/8" after the rib mid-front, increase 1 stitch AFTER each marker – remember INCREASE TIP (= 6 stitches increased).
Increase like this, alternately before and after each marker, every 3 cm = 1 1/8" a total of 5-6-6-6-6-7 times = 156-170-184-198-210-224 stitches.
When the piece measures 18-20-22-22-24-26 cm = 7"-8"-8 3/4"-8 3/4"-9 1/2"-10 1/4" after the rib mid-front, remove all markers.
Insert 1 marker in the first stitch at the beginning of the round and 1 marker in the 79th-86th-93rd-100th-106th-113th stitch (mid-back and mid-front).
On the next round increase both BEFORE and AFTER each marker-stitch – remember INCREASE TIP (= 4 stitches increased). Increase like this EVERY round a total of 6-6-6-8-8-8 times = 180-194-208-230-242-256 stitches. After the last increase the piece measures approx. 27-29-31-33-35-37 cm = 10 5/8"-11 3/8"-12 1/4"-13"-13 3/4"-14 1/2" from the cast-on edge mid-front.
Now divide at both markers and finish each leg separately. Place the first 90-97-104-115-121-128 stitches on short circular needle size 5 MM = US 8 and leave the other stitches on the original needle. Cut the strand. The legs are measured from here.

= 90-97-104-115-121-128 stitches. Cast on 3-3-4-4-5-5 stitches at the beginning of the row, work stockinette stitch and cast on 3-3-4-4-5-5 stitches at the end of the row = 96-103-112-123-131-138 stitches.
Join the piece and insert 1 marker at the join (inside leg). Work stockinette stitch in the round for 3-3-3-2-2-2 cm = 1 1/8"-1 1/8"-1 1/8"-3/4"-3/4"-3/4". Now decrease 2 stitches on each side of the marker – read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every 3-3-3-2-1½-1½ cm = 1 1/8"-1 1/8"-1 1/8"-3/4"-1/2"-1/2" a total of 2-4-7-10-13-15 times = 92-95-98-103-105-108 stitches.
Work until the leg measures 64-65-66-67-68-69 cm = 25 1/4"-25 1/2"-26"-26 3/8"-26 3/4"-27 1/8", measured inside the leg – read MEASURING TIP. Try the trousers on and work to desired length before the ribbing.
Knit 1 round and increase 28-31-34-35-39-42 stitches evenly spaced = 120-126-132-138-144-150 stitches.
Change to short circular needle size 4 MM = US 6 and work rib (knit 2, purl 4) for 12 cm = 4 3/4". Bind off a little loosely. The leg measures approx. 76-77-78-79-80-81 cm = 29 1/2"-30 3/8"-30 3/4"-31"-31 1/2"-32". Work the other leg in the same way.

Sew the opening between the legs (sew together the 6-6-8-8-10-10 cast-on stitches on each leg).

Cut 3 strands Alaska, 4-4-4½-4½-5-5 metres in length, twist them together until they begin to resist, fold them double and they will continue to twist. Tie a knot in each end.
Start mid-front of the trousers and thread the cord through the row of holes on the ribbed edge.


All measurements in charts are in cm.

diagram measurements

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 237-15) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

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Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (17)

country flag Payton wrote:

With the increasing both before and after the stitch markers, before splitting for the legs, how would that work without creating a hole? If there are 2 yo's next to each other, it would create a space below that wouldn't minimize completely with twisting of the stitches. Thanks!

24.07.2023 - 08:54

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Payton, it's normal that there may be a small hole; you can fix this afterwards by making a few small stitches with a yarn needle. Happy knitting!

26.07.2023 - 15:36

country flag Nina Schlichtkrull wrote:

Hi :-) Is there a recipe for the top shown in the picture? Thank you. Best regards Karina

10.07.2023 - 14:54

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Nina, no, we don't have a pattern for the top. Happy knitting!

10.07.2023 - 17:36

country flag Ingrid Verberck wrote:

Betreft patroon DROPS 237-15. Maat L. Vanaf broek 22 cm moet je iedere naald meerderen en dit 6x. Dus 6 toeren. Vervolgens meet de broek dan 31cm.??? Zit hier een fout in? Mvg. Ingrid verberck

12.02.2023 - 16:01

country flag Victoria wrote:

Sorry for the off top: I would really like to knit summer trousers with your patterns, unfortunately there are not so many of them. I don't think these trousers will look nice in Drops loves you 8, am I right?

07.02.2023 - 18:52

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Victoria, we do have some similar patterns worked in cotton yarns - see here, they might look nice with cotton. Just request help from your DROPS store (even per mail or telephone) to find the best matching yarn. Happy knitting!

08.02.2023 - 10:48

country flag Liina Kaev wrote:

Tere! Suuruse M mõõdud ei ole, minu arvestamist mööda, matemaatiliselt võimalikud. Kui kasvatusi alustada eest mõõtes 6cm peale soonikut ja kasvatada 6x iga 3cm järel, siis on töö pikkus peale kasvatusi 21cm…juhendis aga, on ette nähtud 20cm juures silmusemärkijad eemaldada ja kasvatada 4s vaid ees ja taga…!?? Tänud juba ette kaasa mõtlemast! Kõike imelist! Liina✨

24.01.2023 - 13:36

country flag Olga K wrote:

Thank you very much for pattern, I just made it for myself (M). Fast knitting, beautiful model, thanks again!)

30.09.2022 - 21:30

country flag Patrizia wrote:

Buona sera, Vorrei realizzare il pantalone con 2 fili di flora ( o 2 di alpaca) lo consigliate oppure meglio solo la lana? Grazie

09.09.2022 - 17:26

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Patrizia, Flora e Alpaca sono due filati appartenenti al gruppo A, quindi li può utilizzare doppiati e verificare che il campione corrisponda a quello indicato prima di procedere. Buon lavoro!

12.09.2022 - 21:48

country flag Eugénie wrote:

Bonjour, je ne comprend pas très bien la rehausse. Je suis actuellement entrain de tricoter la taille S de ce patron, j’ai regardé plusieurs fois la vidéo, mais je n’arrive toujours pas à comprendre sur la vidéo les mailles vont de 10 en 10 à chaque fois mais sur le patron nous devint passer de 14 mailles à 12 mailles puis à 28. Comment faire ? Merci à vous belle journée

06.09.2022 - 07:10

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Eugénie, les chiffres ont été ici inversés en taille S, il fallait lire 21 et non 12 mailles - la correction a été faite, merci pour votre retour. Vous allez ainsi bien tricoter toujours plus de mailles (7 mailles en plus à la fin de chaque rang). Bonne continuation!

06.09.2022 - 09:28

country flag Maminou wrote:

Je serais heureuse de recevoir les explications pour un pantalon en tricot avec des aiguilles droites. Déjà merci. C’est la petite fille de 23ans qui en rêve.

03.09.2022 - 22:33

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Maminou, vous trouverez ici quelques informations pour vous permettre d'adapter les explications pour des aiguilles droites; il peut être parfois plus simple de tricoter en rond, n'hésitez pas à essayer, nombreuses sont celles qui ont finalement adopté les aiguilles circulaires. Bon tricot!

05.09.2022 - 10:11

country flag Ursula wrote:

Wow, endlich mal wieder ein paar Hosen. Gut

03.09.2022 - 09:49

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