DROPS / 27 / 2

DROPS 27-2 by DROPS Design

DROPS jacket and socks in Karisma with Rose border

Size: Small (Medium - Large)
Finished measurements:
Bust: 114 (120-126) cm / 45" (47"-49½")
Full length: 59 (60-60) cm / 23 1/4" (23½"-23½")

Materials: DROPS Karisma Superwash from Garnstudio
550 (550-550) g color no 016, gray
150 (200-200) g color no 001, off white
50 (50- 50) g color no 018, red
50 (50- 50) g color no 046, coral
50 (50- 50) g color no 045, green
50 (50- 50) g color no 010, yellow

DROPS circular needle size 2.5 mm / US 1 and 4 mm/US 6.
DROPS double pointed needles size 2.5 mm / US 1 and 4 mm/US 6.
5 buttons.

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 5 ft 7 in and uses size S or M. If you are making a sweater, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

100% Wool
from 3.20 $ /50g
DROPS Karisma uni colour DROPS Karisma uni colour 3.20 $ /50g
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DROPS Karisma mix DROPS Karisma mix 3.20 $ /50g
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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
Knitting gauge: 20 sts x 26 rows on needle size 4 mm / US 6 = 10 x 10 cm / 4'' x 4''

Edge: Work 3 cm / 1 1/8'' stockinette sts, P1 round on RS (= folding edge – measure piece from this point), 3 cm / 1 1/8'' stockinette sts.

Pattern: Work entire pattern in stockinette sts.
Should you want a longer jacket (see photo 2 and 3) work the section in M.2 longer, note that this might affect the required yarn amount.

BODY
Work jacket on circular needles and cut up for armhole + mid front afterwards.
Cast on 188 (192-198) sts on circular needle size 2.5 mm / US 1 with gray and work Edge – back and for the on needle.
On last row cast on 5 new sts mid front (these sts are for cutting up at the end and are not worked in pattern) now, continue knitting in the round.
Change to circular needle size 4 mm / US 6 and work M.1 at the same time inc with 40 (48-54) sts evenly distributed on 1st round = 228 (240-252) sts.
After M.1 continue working M.2 – at the same time when piece measures 29 (30-30) cm / 11½" (11 3/4"-11 3/4") cast on 5 new sts each side for armhole (these sts are to be cut up later and should not be work into pattern). Remember knitting gauge.
When piece measures 31 (32-32) cm / 12 1/4" (12½"-12½") work M.3, then 1 round gray, M.4 and finish with gray at the same time when piece measures 54 (55-55) cm / 21 1/4" (21½"-21½") bind off middle 32 (34-34) sts + 5 sts front for neck and complete piece knitting back and forth on needle and continuing bind off 2 on every other row to shape neckline each side: 2 sts 2 times, 1 sts 2 times.
At the same time when piece measures 58 (59-59) cm / 22 3/4" (23 1/4"-23 1/4") bind off middle 40 (42-42) sts for neck back and on next row bind off 2 sts on each side to shape neckline. Bind off when piece measures 59 (60-60) cm / 23 1/4" (23½"-23½").

SLEEVE
Cast on 44 (46-48) sts on double pointed needles size 2.5 mm / US 1 with gray and work Edge. Change to circular needle size 4 mm / US 6 at the same time inc 12 (12-12) sts evenly on 1st round = 56 (58-60) sts.
Continue working pattern as follows (place a pattern repeat mid sleeve): first M.4, then M.6, and then M.2 until piece measures 41 (40-40) cm / 16" (15 3/4"-15 3/4"), then M.3 until complete measurement.
At the same time inc mid under arm 1 st on each side of middle st alternating every * 3rd and 4th round * a total of 32 (32-32) times = 122 (122-124) sts.
When piece measures 50 (49-49) cm / 19 3/4" (19 1/4"-19 1/4"), work 2 cm / 3/4'' stockinette sts with WS out (reverse stockinette) for folding edge over cutting edge on body. Bind off.

ASSEMBLY
Sew in a marking thread down in middle of inc sts on each side + mid front.
Sew two seams on sewing machine around marking thread, 1st seam = 1/2 sts from 1st st from thread, 2nd seam = 1/2 sts from 1st seam.
Cut up for armholes and mid front. Sew shoulder seams.
Fold edges at bottom of body and sleeves double towards WS and sew.
Pick up approx 110 sts along left front edge with gray on needle size 2.5 mm / US 1 and work M.4, then complete with gray, P1 round on RS, 16 rounds stockinette sts, bind off and fold edge towards WS and sew.
Repeat along right front piece, but work 5 buttonholes after 1 cm / 3/8'' evenly distributed up - 1 buttonhole = bind off 2 sts cast on 2 new sts on next row. NB! Make buttonholes in the same way on the inside so that they match the buttonholes at the front. Double folding edge towards WS over cutting edge and sew.
Pick up approx 104 sts around neck on needle size 2.5 mm / US 1 with gray and work 2.5 cm stockinette sts, change to red, 1 round stockinette sts, P1 round, 2.5 cm / 7/8'' stockinette sts, bind off, fold towards WS and sew.
Sew sleeves onto body from RS as follows: Sew alternating 1 st in last stockinette round of sleeve before folding edge and 1 sts on body after machine seam. Turn WS out on sweater and sew folding edge from sleeves over cutting edge onto body by hand. Sew in buttons.
________________________________________


Socks:

Size:
US 7½/9½ (9½-11)
EU 38-41 (41-44)
Leg length: 58 (65) cm / 22 3" (25½"). Foot: 23 (26) cm / 9" (10 1/4").

Materials: DROPS Karisma Superwash from Garnstudio
200 (200) g color no 016, gray
100 (100) g color no 001, off white

DROPS double pointed needles sizes 2.5 mm and 3 mm / US 1 and 2or3

Knitting gauge: 22 sts x 32 rows on needle size 3 mm / US 2or3 and stockinette sts = 10 x 10 cm / 4'' x 4''

Rib: * K2, P2 *

Ankle: * slip next sts loosely, K1 (WS = P1) psso *

Heal decrease:
1st row: (RS) Work until 6 (7) sts rem on row. Turn piece.
2nd row: (WS) Work until 6 (7) sts rem on row. Turn piece.
3rd row: Work until 8 sts rem on row, slip next st as if to K, K1, psso. Turn piece.
4th row: Work until 8 sts rem on row, slip next st as if to P, K1, psso, turn piece.
Continue working with 1 st less on each side before you slip next st.
Continue until 12 (14) sts remains on needle.

SOCK
Cast on 72 (80) sts on double pointed needles size 2.5 mm / US 1 with gray and work 14 (16) cm / 5½" (6 1/4") in rib K2, P2.
Change to double pointed needles size 3 mm / US 2or3 and work 2 rounds stockinette sts as inc 0 (4) sts evenly on 1st round = 72 (84) sts.
Work M.7 (but turn pattern repeat upside down).
Then continuing work M.2. When piece measures 30 (32) cm / 11 3/4" (12½") begin dec for leg. Dec each side of middle st back:
Before middle st: slip next st as if to K, K1, psso, and after the middle st: K2 tog. Repeat on every 5th round (4th round) in total 12 (16) times = 48 (52) sts.
When piece measures 50 (56) cm / 19 3/4" (22") slip middle 24 (26) sts to front on a stitch holder and complete with gray.
Then work 5 (6) cm / 2" (2½") in stockinette sts (heel) over the 24 (26) middle sts in back, and then work heel bind off (see explanation above).
Then pick up 12 (13) sts on each side of heel and slip all sts on same needle = 60 (66) sts. Dec continuing as follows: K2 first of uppermost 24 (26) sts tog and last K2 sts of uppermost 24 (26) sts tog on every other row 6 times in total = 48 (54) sts.
Work until foot measures approx 19 (21.5) cm / 7½" (8½").
Insert a marker on each side of foot and dec for toe on each side of markers as follows: K2 tog before and K2 tog after, repeat 3 times on every other row = 36 (42) sts. Then 7 (9) times on every row = 8 (6) sts. Pull sts tog and sew away thread well.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

= gray
= off white
= yellow
= green
= red
= coral


Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 27-2) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (7)

Michaela 29.02.2020 - 06:36:

Man soll für die Armlöcher auf beiden Seiten 5 Maschen aufnehmen. Auf welchen Seiten, man strickt doch rund? Da vorne noch nachträglich eine Blende angestrickt wird, gehe ich davon aus, daß man die Maschenzahl für Vorderteil und Rücken nicht einfach teilen kann. Bitte teilen Sie mir doch mit, wie die Verteilung der Maschen: rechtes Vorderteil, linkes Vorderteil Rückenteil sein soll.

DROPS Design 02.03.2020 kl. 09:36:

Liebe Michaela, diese 5 Maschen sind für die Seiten, dh die sollen auf beiden Seiten sein, in die 1. Grösse z.B. haben Sie 228 M + 5 SteekMaschen = 114 Maschen für den Rückenteil und 57 M für jeden Vorderteil. Diese 5 Maschen schlagen Sie zwischen jedem Vorderteil und Rückenteil. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Julia 23.03.2019 - 19:56:

Kann es sein das die Jacke auf dem Bild viel länger gearbeitet ist als in der Anleitung beschrieben? Mit welcher Technik sollte man am besten die zusätzlichen Maschen für den Armausschnitt verwenden?

DROPS Design 01.04.2019 kl. 15:51:

Liebe Julia, stimmt, die Jacke im Foto 2 und 3 ist länger als in die Beschreibung - die Garnmenge anpassen. so können die neuen Maschen angeschlagen (Steek-Maschen). Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Alice Teunis 17.08.2018 - 13:11:

In de beschrijving van het vest staat dat het breien van 36 naalden Karisma op pen 4 een hoogte van 10 cm. oplevert. Bij de beschrijving van de sokken staat dat het breien van 32 naalden op pen 3 een hoofte van 10 cm. oplevert. Op de wikkel van Karisma staat dat op pen 4 mar 28 naalden gebreid moeten worden voor 10 cm lengte. Hier lijkt dus iets niet te kloppen!

Gitte 30.06.2018 - 11:48:

Kan det virkelig passe at jakken kun er 60 cm i højden ?

DROPS Design 02.07.2018 kl. 15:17:

Hej Gitte, Ja det stemmer originalopskriften er kun 60 cm i højden. God fornøjelse!

Linda Hughes 19.06.2018 - 15:46:

I had never heard of steeking, never knitted a Norwegian sweater before, I was very unsure of the method. Thanks to your video I am ready to give it a go.

Ingrid Mohr 08.06.2015 - 20:49:

I would like to make this pattern, but I'm unsure as the small says it's 45"?? To me that's a pretty large sweater. How many stitches would I need to cut down the size to around 36" bust?

DROPS Design 09.06.2015 kl. 08:46:

Dear Mrs Mohr, you can adapt to your size with the help of the measurement chart and another similar pattern. Remember you can get any individual assistance by your DROPS store. Happy knitting!

Erika Harding 05.05.2015 - 09:39:

The pattern says to sew down the middle parallel stitching. And then cut . Have you a tutorial showing this? As I am unsure on this. Regards Erika

DROPS Design 05.05.2015 kl. 10:00:

Dear Mrs Harding, the video below shows how to work the steek sts. Happy knitting!

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