Sweetness Imprint by DROPS Design
Knitted jacket in DROPS Air. The piece is worked bottom up, with lace pattern and picot-edges. Sizes S - XXXL.
DROPS 231-27
DROPS Design: Pattern ai-383
Yarn group C or A + A
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SIZES:
S - M - L - XL - XXL – XXXL
Finished measurements:
Chest measurements: 98-104-112-118-130-144 cm = 38 1/2"-41"-44"-46 1/2"-51 1/4"-56 1/2"
Full length: 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm = 21 1/4"-22"-22 3/4"-23 5/8"-24 3/8"-25 1/4"
All measurements in charts are in cm.
MATERIALS:
DROPS AIR from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
350-350-400-450-500-550 g color 33, pink sand
DROPS MOTHER OF PEARL BUTTONS, Flower (light pink) NO 602: 1 item in all sizes.
NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 5 MM = US 8: Length 80 cm = 32”.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4 MM = US 6: Length 80 cm = 32”.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 5 MM = US 8.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 4 MM = US 6.
The technique MAGIC LOOP can be used – you then only need circular needle of 80 cm = 32” in each size.
KNITTING GAUGE:
17 stitches in width and 22 rows in height with stockinette stitch = 10 x 10 cm = 4” x 4”.
NOTE: Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a smaller needle size.
DROPS Design: Pattern ai-383
Yarn group C or A + A
-------------------------------------------------------
SIZES:
S - M - L - XL - XXL – XXXL
Finished measurements:
Chest measurements: 98-104-112-118-130-144 cm = 38 1/2"-41"-44"-46 1/2"-51 1/4"-56 1/2"
Full length: 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm = 21 1/4"-22"-22 3/4"-23 5/8"-24 3/8"-25 1/4"
All measurements in charts are in cm.
MATERIALS:
DROPS AIR from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
350-350-400-450-500-550 g color 33, pink sand
DROPS MOTHER OF PEARL BUTTONS, Flower (light pink) NO 602: 1 item in all sizes.
NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 5 MM = US 8: Length 80 cm = 32”.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4 MM = US 6: Length 80 cm = 32”.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 5 MM = US 8.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 4 MM = US 6.
The technique MAGIC LOOP can be used – you then only need circular needle of 80 cm = 32” in each size.
KNITTING GAUGE:
17 stitches in width and 22 rows in height with stockinette stitch = 10 x 10 cm = 4” x 4”.
NOTE: Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a smaller needle size.
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Magic loop – See the technique here
Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here.
There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here.
For this pattern in British English, please click here.
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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:
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RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge = knit 2 rows.
PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 and A.2. The diagrams show all rows in the pattern from the right side.
DECREASE/INCREASE TIP (evenly spaced):
To work out how to decrease/increase evenly, count the total number of stitches on needle (e.g. 105 stitches), minus the edge stitches (e.g. 2 stitches) and divide the remaining 103 stitches by the number of decreases/increases to be made (e.g. 20) = 5.1.
In this example, decrease by knitting together approx. each 4th and 5th stitch; do not decrease the edge stitches.
When increasing, make 1 yarn over after approx. each 5th stitch. On the next row purl the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.
DECREASE TIP (for sleeves):
Decrease 1 stitch on either side of the marker as follows: Work until there are 3 stitches left before the marker, knit 2 together, knit 2 (marker sits between these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch (2 stitches decreased).
PICOT:
Knit 1, * insert right needle between the next 2 stitches (not through the stitches), make 1 yarn over, pull the yarn over between the stitches and place on left needle *, work from *-* 2 more times (= 3 yarn overs on left needle), knit and bind off 7 stitches (= 1 stitch + 3 yarn overs + 3 stitches). Work from *-* and bind off 7 stitches in the same way along the whole edge. When there are not enough stitches to work another picot, bind off the remaining stitches as usual. Cut the strand and pull it through the last stitch. Fasten.
BINDING-OFF TIP:
To avoid the bind-off edge being tight you can bind off with a larger size needle. If the edge is still tight, make 1 yarn over after approx. each 4th stitch at the same time as binding off; the yarn overs are bind off as normal stitches.
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START THE PIECE HERE:
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JACKET – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The back and front pieces are worked separately, back and forth on circular needle and bottom up. The sleeves are worked top down, first back and forth on circular needle then in the round with double pointed needles. The piece is sewn together and the bands worked with picot-edges.
BACK PIECE:
Cast on 104-112-120-126-140-154 stitches (including 1 edge stitch on each side) with circular needle size 4 MM = US 6 and DROPS Air. Work rib as follows:
1 edge stitch in GARTER STITCH – read description above, A.1 until there is 1 stitch left and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Continue this rib back and forth for 9 cm = 3 1/2" – adjust so the next row is from the right side. Knit 1 row where you decrease 19-21-23-23-27-29 stitches evenly spaced – read DECREASE/INCREASE TIP = 85-91-97-103-113-125 stitches.
Change to circular needle size 5 MM = US 8.
Purl 1 row with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side.
Now work pattern as follows: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, 3-6-9-5-10-16 stitches in stockinette stitch, A.2 over the next 70-70-70-84-84-84 stitches (= 5-5-5-6-6-6 repeats of 14 stitches), work the first 7 stitches in A.2, 3-6-9-5-10-16 stitches in stockinette stitch and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch.
Continue this pattern until the piece measures 36-37-38-39-40-41 cm = 14 1/4"-14 1/2"-15"-15 1/4"-15 3/4"-16 1/8". REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE!
At the beginning of the next 2 rows bind off 2-4-4-4-7-11 stitches for the armholes = 81-83-89-95-99-103 stitches. Continue with pattern over the middle 77-77-77-91-91-91 stitches, 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side and stockinette stitch over the other 1-2-5-1-3-5 stitches until the piece measures 51-53-55-57-59-61 cm = 20"-21"-21 5/8"-22 1/2"-23 1/4"-24" – adjust so you have at least 2 rows of stockinette stitch after a lace pattern. Continue with stockinette stitch and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side and bind off the middle 29-29-31-31-33-33 stitches for the neck. Each shoulder is finished separately. Bind off 1 stitch on the next row from the neck = 25-26-28-31-32-34 stitches on the shoulder. Continue working until the piece measures 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm = 21 1/4"-22"-22 3/4"-23 5/8"-24 3/8"-25 1/4". Bind off. Work the other shoulder in the same way.
RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
Cast on 52-56-60-64-72-78 stitches (including 1 edge stitch on each side) with circular needle size 4 MM = US 6 and DROPS Air. Work rib as follows:
1 edge stitch in garter stitch, A.1 until there is 1 stitch left and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Continue this rib back and forth for 9 cm = 3 1/2" – adjust so the next row is from the right side. Knit 1 row where you decrease 9-10-10-11-13-13 stitches evenly spaced = 43-46-50-53-59-65 stitches.
Change to circular needle size 5 MM = US 8.
Purl 1 row with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side.
Now work pattern as follows: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, 3-3-4-4-5-5 stitches in stockinette stitch, A.2 over the next 28-28-28-42-42-42 stitches (= 2-2-2-3-3-3 repeats of 14 stitches), work the first 7-7-7-0-0-0 stitches in A.2 (only applies to sizes S, M, and L; in the other sizes there are no more stitches in A.2), 3-6-9-5-10-16 stitches in stockinette stitch and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch.
Continue this pattern.
OVERVIEW OF THE NEXT SECTION:
Now both the V-neck and armholes are worked at the same time – read the next section before continuing.
V-NECK:
When the piece measures 28-29-30-31-32-33 cm = 11"-11 3/8"-11 3/4"-12 1/4"-12 1/2"-13", start to decrease for the V-neck on the next row from the right side as follows:
1 edge stitch in garter stitch, knit 1, slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch (= 1 stitch decreased), work to end of row. Turn and purl back with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side.
Decrease like this every 4th row 1 time (= the first decrease is explained above), every 2nd row 12-12-13-13-14-14 times, then every 4th row 3 times = 16-16-17-17-18-18 stitches decreased – if the decreases occur in the middle of a lace pattern, work stockinette stitch instead of pattern.
ARMHOLE:
When the piece measures 36-37-38-39-40-41 cm = 14 1/4"-14 1/2"-15"-15 1/4"-15 3/4"-16 1/8", bind off 2-4-4-4-7-11 stitches for the armhole on the next row from the wrong side.
When the decreases for the neck and armhole are finished there are 25-26-28-31-32-34 stitches on the shoulder. Continue with stockinette stitch and 1 edge stitch on garter stitch on each side until the piece measures 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm = 21 1/4"-22"-22 3/4"-23 5/8"-24 3/8"-25 1/4". Bind off.
LEFT FRONT PIECE:
Cast on 52-56-60-64-72-78 stitches (including 1 edge stitch on each side) with circular needle size 4 MM = US 6 and DROPS Air. Work rib as follows:
1 edge stitch in garter stitch, A.1 until there is 1 stitch left (adjust so you begin and end with 1 purl (from the right side) so the rib matches when the piece is sewn together, and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Continue this rib back and forth for 9 cm = 3 1/2" – adjust so the next row is from the right side. Knit 1 row where you decrease 9-10-10-11-13-13 stitches evenly spaced = 43-46-50-53-59-65 stitches.
Change to circular needle size 5 MM = US 8.
Purl 1 row with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side.
Now work pattern as follows: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, 3-6-9-5-10-16 stitches in stockinette stitch, start on stitch 1-1-1-7-7-7 in A.2 and continue A.2 over the next 28-28-28-35-35-35 stitches (= 2-2-2-2½-2½-2½ repeats of 14 stitches), work the first 7 stitches in A.2, 3-3-4-4-5-5 stitches in stockinette stitch and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch.
Continue this pattern.
OVERVIEW OF THE NEXT SECTION:
Now both the V-neck and armholes are worked at the same time – read the whole section before continuing.
V-NECK:
When the piece measures 28-29-30-31-32-33 cm = 11"-11 3/8"-11 3/4"-12 1/4"-12 1/2"-13", start to decrease for the V-neck on the next row from the right side as follows:
1 edge stitch in garter stitch, pattern as before until there are 4 stitches left, knit 2 together (1 stitch decreased), knit 1 and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch.
Purl 1 row with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side.
Decrease like this every 4th row 1 time (= the first decrease is explained above), every 2nd row 12-12-13-13-14-14 times, then every 4th row 3 times = 16-16-17-17-18-18 stitches decreased – if the decreases occur in the middle of a lace pattern, work stockinette stitch instead of pattern.
ARMHOLE:
When the piece measures 36-37-38-39-40-41 cm = 14 1/4"-14 1/2"-15"-15 1/4"-15 3/4"-16 1/8", bind off 2-4-4-4-7-11 stitches for the armhole on the next row from the right side.
When the decreases for the neck and armhole are finished there are 25-26-28-31-32-34 stitches on the shoulder. Continue with stockinette stitch and 1 edge stitch on garter stitch on each side until the piece measures 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm = 21 1/4"-22"-22 3/4"-23 5/8"-24 3/8"-25 1/4". Bind off.
SLEEVES:
The sleeves are worked top down.
Cast on 61-65-69-71-75-79 stitches with circular needle size 5 MM = US 8 and DROPS Air. Work stockinette stitch back and forth for 1-2-2-2-4-6 cm = 3/8"-3/4"-3/4"-3/4"-1 1/2"-2 3/8". Then continue in the round as follows:
Insert 1 marker at the beginning of the round; allow the marker to follow your work – it is used when decreasing under the sleeve. Change to double pointed needles size 5 MM = US 8.
Work pattern in the round as follows:
20-22-24-25-27-29 stitches in stockinette stitch, A.2 over the next 14 stitches, work the first 7 stitches in A.2 (so the pattern is symmetrical) and 20-22-24-25-27-29 stitches in stockinette stitch.
When the sleeve measures 3-4-4-4-6-8 cm = 1 1/8"-1 1/2"-1 1/2"-1 1/2"-2 3/8"-3 1/8" from the cast-on edge, decrease 1 stitch on each side of the marker – read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every 5½-4-3½-3½-3-2 cm = 2 1/8"-1 1/2"-1 1/4"-1 1/4"-1 1/8"-3/4" a total of 6-7-8-8-9-11 times = 49-51-53-55-57-57 stitches. Continue working until the sleeve measures 39-39-38-38-38-37 cm = 15 1/4"-15 1/4"-15"-15"-15"-14 1/2" – adjust so you have worked at least 2 rows of stockinette stitch after a lace pattern.
There is approx. 9 cm = 3 1/2" left.
Knit 1 round where you increase 11-13-13-13-13-13 stitches evenly spaced = 60-64-66-68-70-70 stitches. Change to double pointed needles size 4 MM = US 6 and work A.1 for 9 cm = 3 1/2". Bind off with knit over twisted-knit and purl over purl – read BINDING-OFF TIP. The sleeve measures approx. 48-48-47-47-47-46 cm = 19"-19"-18 1/2"-18 1/2"-18 1/2"-18". Work the other sleeve in the same way.
ASSEMBLY:
Sew the shoulder seams – start outermost and work in towards the neck. Sew the sleeve cap to the armhole and sew the split to the bottom of the armhole – see sketch. Sew the side seams from the armhole down, inside the 1 edge stitch.
Insert 1 marker mid-back of neck; it is used when working the bands.
RIGHT BAND:
Start at the bottom of the right front piece, with circular needle size 4 MM = US 6 and DROPS Air. Knit up 139 to 163 stitches from the right side inside the 1 edge stitch as far as the marker at the back of the neck. The number of stitches should be divisible by 4 + 3. Turn and work rib (from the wrong side) as follows: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, A.1 until there are 2 stitches left, AT THE SAME TIME as you increase at the beginning of the V-neck as follows (adjust so that the next stitch is a knitted stitch): * Knit 1, 1 yarn over *, work from *-* 4 times (= 4 stitches increased), work the first stitch in A.1 and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch = 143 to 167 stitches. On the next row work the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes, then work the new stitches into A.1.
Continue this rib for 2 cm = 3/4". Now work 1 buttonhole at the bottom of the V-neck.
BUTTONHOLE: Make 1 yarn over (after 1 knit-twisted stitch), knit 2 together. On the next row knit the yarn over to leave a hole.
Continue the rib until the band measures 4½ cm = 1 5/8". Bind off with PICOT – read description above.
LEFT BAND:
Start at the marker on the neck and knit up the same number of stitches as on the right front piece with circular needle size 4 MM = US 6 and DROPS Air.
Turn and work rib (from the wrong side) as follows: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, A.1 until there are 2 stitches left, AT THE SAME TIME as you increase at the beginning of the V-neck as follows (adjust so that the next stitch a knitted stitch): * Knit 1, 1 yarn over *, work from *-* 4 times (= 4 stitches increased), work the first stitch in A.1 and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch = 143 to 167 stitches. On the next row work the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes, then work the new stitches into A.1.
Continue this rib for 4½ cm = 1 5/8". Bind off with picot.
Sew the button onto the left band and sew the bands together at the back of the neck.
EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:
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RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge = knit 2 rows.
PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 and A.2. The diagrams show all rows in the pattern from the right side.
DECREASE/INCREASE TIP (evenly spaced):
To work out how to decrease/increase evenly, count the total number of stitches on needle (e.g. 105 stitches), minus the edge stitches (e.g. 2 stitches) and divide the remaining 103 stitches by the number of decreases/increases to be made (e.g. 20) = 5.1.
In this example, decrease by knitting together approx. each 4th and 5th stitch; do not decrease the edge stitches.
When increasing, make 1 yarn over after approx. each 5th stitch. On the next row purl the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.
DECREASE TIP (for sleeves):
Decrease 1 stitch on either side of the marker as follows: Work until there are 3 stitches left before the marker, knit 2 together, knit 2 (marker sits between these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch (2 stitches decreased).
PICOT:
Knit 1, * insert right needle between the next 2 stitches (not through the stitches), make 1 yarn over, pull the yarn over between the stitches and place on left needle *, work from *-* 2 more times (= 3 yarn overs on left needle), knit and bind off 7 stitches (= 1 stitch + 3 yarn overs + 3 stitches). Work from *-* and bind off 7 stitches in the same way along the whole edge. When there are not enough stitches to work another picot, bind off the remaining stitches as usual. Cut the strand and pull it through the last stitch. Fasten.
BINDING-OFF TIP:
To avoid the bind-off edge being tight you can bind off with a larger size needle. If the edge is still tight, make 1 yarn over after approx. each 4th stitch at the same time as binding off; the yarn overs are bind off as normal stitches.
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START THE PIECE HERE:
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JACKET – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The back and front pieces are worked separately, back and forth on circular needle and bottom up. The sleeves are worked top down, first back and forth on circular needle then in the round with double pointed needles. The piece is sewn together and the bands worked with picot-edges.
BACK PIECE:
Cast on 104-112-120-126-140-154 stitches (including 1 edge stitch on each side) with circular needle size 4 MM = US 6 and DROPS Air. Work rib as follows:
1 edge stitch in GARTER STITCH – read description above, A.1 until there is 1 stitch left and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Continue this rib back and forth for 9 cm = 3 1/2" – adjust so the next row is from the right side. Knit 1 row where you decrease 19-21-23-23-27-29 stitches evenly spaced – read DECREASE/INCREASE TIP = 85-91-97-103-113-125 stitches.
Change to circular needle size 5 MM = US 8.
Purl 1 row with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side.
Now work pattern as follows: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, 3-6-9-5-10-16 stitches in stockinette stitch, A.2 over the next 70-70-70-84-84-84 stitches (= 5-5-5-6-6-6 repeats of 14 stitches), work the first 7 stitches in A.2, 3-6-9-5-10-16 stitches in stockinette stitch and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch.
Continue this pattern until the piece measures 36-37-38-39-40-41 cm = 14 1/4"-14 1/2"-15"-15 1/4"-15 3/4"-16 1/8". REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE!
At the beginning of the next 2 rows bind off 2-4-4-4-7-11 stitches for the armholes = 81-83-89-95-99-103 stitches. Continue with pattern over the middle 77-77-77-91-91-91 stitches, 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side and stockinette stitch over the other 1-2-5-1-3-5 stitches until the piece measures 51-53-55-57-59-61 cm = 20"-21"-21 5/8"-22 1/2"-23 1/4"-24" – adjust so you have at least 2 rows of stockinette stitch after a lace pattern. Continue with stockinette stitch and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side and bind off the middle 29-29-31-31-33-33 stitches for the neck. Each shoulder is finished separately. Bind off 1 stitch on the next row from the neck = 25-26-28-31-32-34 stitches on the shoulder. Continue working until the piece measures 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm = 21 1/4"-22"-22 3/4"-23 5/8"-24 3/8"-25 1/4". Bind off. Work the other shoulder in the same way.
RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
Cast on 52-56-60-64-72-78 stitches (including 1 edge stitch on each side) with circular needle size 4 MM = US 6 and DROPS Air. Work rib as follows:
1 edge stitch in garter stitch, A.1 until there is 1 stitch left and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Continue this rib back and forth for 9 cm = 3 1/2" – adjust so the next row is from the right side. Knit 1 row where you decrease 9-10-10-11-13-13 stitches evenly spaced = 43-46-50-53-59-65 stitches.
Change to circular needle size 5 MM = US 8.
Purl 1 row with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side.
Now work pattern as follows: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, 3-3-4-4-5-5 stitches in stockinette stitch, A.2 over the next 28-28-28-42-42-42 stitches (= 2-2-2-3-3-3 repeats of 14 stitches), work the first 7-7-7-0-0-0 stitches in A.2 (only applies to sizes S, M, and L; in the other sizes there are no more stitches in A.2), 3-6-9-5-10-16 stitches in stockinette stitch and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch.
Continue this pattern.
OVERVIEW OF THE NEXT SECTION:
Now both the V-neck and armholes are worked at the same time – read the next section before continuing.
V-NECK:
When the piece measures 28-29-30-31-32-33 cm = 11"-11 3/8"-11 3/4"-12 1/4"-12 1/2"-13", start to decrease for the V-neck on the next row from the right side as follows:
1 edge stitch in garter stitch, knit 1, slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch (= 1 stitch decreased), work to end of row. Turn and purl back with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side.
Decrease like this every 4th row 1 time (= the first decrease is explained above), every 2nd row 12-12-13-13-14-14 times, then every 4th row 3 times = 16-16-17-17-18-18 stitches decreased – if the decreases occur in the middle of a lace pattern, work stockinette stitch instead of pattern.
ARMHOLE:
When the piece measures 36-37-38-39-40-41 cm = 14 1/4"-14 1/2"-15"-15 1/4"-15 3/4"-16 1/8", bind off 2-4-4-4-7-11 stitches for the armhole on the next row from the wrong side.
When the decreases for the neck and armhole are finished there are 25-26-28-31-32-34 stitches on the shoulder. Continue with stockinette stitch and 1 edge stitch on garter stitch on each side until the piece measures 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm = 21 1/4"-22"-22 3/4"-23 5/8"-24 3/8"-25 1/4". Bind off.
LEFT FRONT PIECE:
Cast on 52-56-60-64-72-78 stitches (including 1 edge stitch on each side) with circular needle size 4 MM = US 6 and DROPS Air. Work rib as follows:
1 edge stitch in garter stitch, A.1 until there is 1 stitch left (adjust so you begin and end with 1 purl (from the right side) so the rib matches when the piece is sewn together, and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Continue this rib back and forth for 9 cm = 3 1/2" – adjust so the next row is from the right side. Knit 1 row where you decrease 9-10-10-11-13-13 stitches evenly spaced = 43-46-50-53-59-65 stitches.
Change to circular needle size 5 MM = US 8.
Purl 1 row with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side.
Now work pattern as follows: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, 3-6-9-5-10-16 stitches in stockinette stitch, start on stitch 1-1-1-7-7-7 in A.2 and continue A.2 over the next 28-28-28-35-35-35 stitches (= 2-2-2-2½-2½-2½ repeats of 14 stitches), work the first 7 stitches in A.2, 3-3-4-4-5-5 stitches in stockinette stitch and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch.
Continue this pattern.
OVERVIEW OF THE NEXT SECTION:
Now both the V-neck and armholes are worked at the same time – read the whole section before continuing.
V-NECK:
When the piece measures 28-29-30-31-32-33 cm = 11"-11 3/8"-11 3/4"-12 1/4"-12 1/2"-13", start to decrease for the V-neck on the next row from the right side as follows:
1 edge stitch in garter stitch, pattern as before until there are 4 stitches left, knit 2 together (1 stitch decreased), knit 1 and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch.
Purl 1 row with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side.
Decrease like this every 4th row 1 time (= the first decrease is explained above), every 2nd row 12-12-13-13-14-14 times, then every 4th row 3 times = 16-16-17-17-18-18 stitches decreased – if the decreases occur in the middle of a lace pattern, work stockinette stitch instead of pattern.
ARMHOLE:
When the piece measures 36-37-38-39-40-41 cm = 14 1/4"-14 1/2"-15"-15 1/4"-15 3/4"-16 1/8", bind off 2-4-4-4-7-11 stitches for the armhole on the next row from the right side.
When the decreases for the neck and armhole are finished there are 25-26-28-31-32-34 stitches on the shoulder. Continue with stockinette stitch and 1 edge stitch on garter stitch on each side until the piece measures 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm = 21 1/4"-22"-22 3/4"-23 5/8"-24 3/8"-25 1/4". Bind off.
SLEEVES:
The sleeves are worked top down.
Cast on 61-65-69-71-75-79 stitches with circular needle size 5 MM = US 8 and DROPS Air. Work stockinette stitch back and forth for 1-2-2-2-4-6 cm = 3/8"-3/4"-3/4"-3/4"-1 1/2"-2 3/8". Then continue in the round as follows:
Insert 1 marker at the beginning of the round; allow the marker to follow your work – it is used when decreasing under the sleeve. Change to double pointed needles size 5 MM = US 8.
Work pattern in the round as follows:
20-22-24-25-27-29 stitches in stockinette stitch, A.2 over the next 14 stitches, work the first 7 stitches in A.2 (so the pattern is symmetrical) and 20-22-24-25-27-29 stitches in stockinette stitch.
When the sleeve measures 3-4-4-4-6-8 cm = 1 1/8"-1 1/2"-1 1/2"-1 1/2"-2 3/8"-3 1/8" from the cast-on edge, decrease 1 stitch on each side of the marker – read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every 5½-4-3½-3½-3-2 cm = 2 1/8"-1 1/2"-1 1/4"-1 1/4"-1 1/8"-3/4" a total of 6-7-8-8-9-11 times = 49-51-53-55-57-57 stitches. Continue working until the sleeve measures 39-39-38-38-38-37 cm = 15 1/4"-15 1/4"-15"-15"-15"-14 1/2" – adjust so you have worked at least 2 rows of stockinette stitch after a lace pattern.
There is approx. 9 cm = 3 1/2" left.
Knit 1 round where you increase 11-13-13-13-13-13 stitches evenly spaced = 60-64-66-68-70-70 stitches. Change to double pointed needles size 4 MM = US 6 and work A.1 for 9 cm = 3 1/2". Bind off with knit over twisted-knit and purl over purl – read BINDING-OFF TIP. The sleeve measures approx. 48-48-47-47-47-46 cm = 19"-19"-18 1/2"-18 1/2"-18 1/2"-18". Work the other sleeve in the same way.
ASSEMBLY:
Sew the shoulder seams – start outermost and work in towards the neck. Sew the sleeve cap to the armhole and sew the split to the bottom of the armhole – see sketch. Sew the side seams from the armhole down, inside the 1 edge stitch.
Insert 1 marker mid-back of neck; it is used when working the bands.
RIGHT BAND:
Start at the bottom of the right front piece, with circular needle size 4 MM = US 6 and DROPS Air. Knit up 139 to 163 stitches from the right side inside the 1 edge stitch as far as the marker at the back of the neck. The number of stitches should be divisible by 4 + 3. Turn and work rib (from the wrong side) as follows: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, A.1 until there are 2 stitches left, AT THE SAME TIME as you increase at the beginning of the V-neck as follows (adjust so that the next stitch is a knitted stitch): * Knit 1, 1 yarn over *, work from *-* 4 times (= 4 stitches increased), work the first stitch in A.1 and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch = 143 to 167 stitches. On the next row work the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes, then work the new stitches into A.1.
Continue this rib for 2 cm = 3/4". Now work 1 buttonhole at the bottom of the V-neck.
BUTTONHOLE: Make 1 yarn over (after 1 knit-twisted stitch), knit 2 together. On the next row knit the yarn over to leave a hole.
Continue the rib until the band measures 4½ cm = 1 5/8". Bind off with PICOT – read description above.
LEFT BAND:
Start at the marker on the neck and knit up the same number of stitches as on the right front piece with circular needle size 4 MM = US 6 and DROPS Air.
Turn and work rib (from the wrong side) as follows: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, A.1 until there are 2 stitches left, AT THE SAME TIME as you increase at the beginning of the V-neck as follows (adjust so that the next stitch a knitted stitch): * Knit 1, 1 yarn over *, work from *-* 4 times (= 4 stitches increased), work the first stitch in A.1 and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch = 143 to 167 stitches. On the next row work the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes, then work the new stitches into A.1.
Continue this rib for 4½ cm = 1 5/8". Bind off with picot.
Sew the button onto the left band and sew the bands together at the back of the neck.
Diagram
All measurements in charts are in cm.
|
= knit from right side, purl from wrong side |
|
= knit twisted from right side, purl twisted from wrong side |
|
= purl from right side, knit from wrong side |
|
= between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over; on the next row purl the yarn over to leave a hole |
|
= knit 2 together |
|
= slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch |
|
= Sew the sleeve cap to the armhole as follows: a to A and b to B |
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What can you do with our patterns? You can share DROPS patterns online, using the pattern original picture, materials, name and number. But you are NOT ALLOWED to reproduce the complete pattern digitally in any way. Yarn stores are welcome to use the DROPS pattern database to promote the sale of our assortment. You can print out our patterns, make as many copies as you’d like. The only thing we ask is that you don't make any changes / additions to the original printed document. And that the patterns according to the DROPS philosophy are given out to the consumers for free. Editorials that wish to publish our patterns in printed books or magazines can contact us for more information. The sale of garments based on DROPS patterns is permitted as long as they are sold as single items or per order. Further commercial use of the patterns is not permitted. It has to be clearly stated that the garment is made based on a design from DROPS DESIGN. The use of clothing labels of which DROPS DESIGN forms part is conditioned by the inclusion of the following text: “A DROPS DESIGN made by …..”. The use of DROPS photos for marketing purposes/sales is only permitted in connection with the use/sale of DROPS products. The photos may not be cut or edited and the logo should be clearly visible.
We reserve the right to withdraw the permission for use of our patterns at any time, notwithstanding the reason.
What can you do with our patterns? You can share DROPS patterns online, using the pattern original picture, materials, name and number. But you are NOT ALLOWED to reproduce the complete pattern digitally in any way. Yarn stores are welcome to use the DROPS pattern database to promote the sale of our assortment. You can print out our patterns, make as many copies as you’d like. The only thing we ask is that you don't make any changes / additions to the original printed document. And that the patterns according to the DROPS philosophy are given out to the consumers for free. Editorials that wish to publish our patterns in printed books or magazines can contact us for more information. The sale of garments based on DROPS patterns is permitted as long as they are sold as single items or per order. Further commercial use of the patterns is not permitted. It has to be clearly stated that the garment is made based on a design from DROPS DESIGN. The use of clothing labels of which DROPS DESIGN forms part is conditioned by the inclusion of the following text: “A DROPS DESIGN made by …..”. The use of DROPS photos for marketing purposes/sales is only permitted in connection with the use/sale of DROPS products. The photos may not be cut or edited and the logo should be clearly visible.
We reserve the right to withdraw the permission for use of our patterns at any time, notwithstanding the reason.
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Hello, I'm on right front piece right now and I think there is a mistake on V-neck decreasing for XL and XXL size. For XL, there are 59 sts before decrease and if I follow the pattern, I'm gonna have 33 sts on my needle. (59-1-1-14-3-7= 33) Could you please check this part again?
16.02.2023 - 19:23Dziękuję bardzo. Już wszystko jasne🙃
15.02.2023 - 14:55Poproszę o pomoc:) pytanie dotyczy obszycia przodów; w którym miejscu dodajemy oczka na dole i początku dekoltu V; nie rozumiem co to jest dół, a co początek dekoltu V; czy to jest miejsce, gdzie zaczynamy zamykać oczka na dekolt, czy sam dół robótki w obu przodach?
14.02.2023 - 21:06DROPS Design answered:
Witaj Tatiano, dół swetra jest na dole prawego przodu i tyłu (od środka przodów). Od tego momentu zaczynasz nabieranie oczek na obszycia przodów. Dół/początek dekoltu V jest to miejsce, gdzie będzie znajdował się pierwszy guzik (na górze swetra); tutaj dodajemy oczka, aby łuk ładnie się układał. Pozdrawiamy!
15.02.2023 kl. 08:31Dziękuję w końcu zrozumiałam 😀😀
21.11.2022 - 10:19Dzień dobry,:Zamykać tak samo 1 raz co 4 rzędy (1-sze zamykanie oczek jest opisane powyżej), 12-12-13-13-14-14 razy co 2 rzędy i 3 razy co 4 rzędy Rozmiar M\r\n1. Liczymy tylko rzędy które są przerabiane na prawo czy na lewo też? \r\n2.czyli najpierw zamykam oczko pierwsze (z cyklu 1 raz co 4 rzędy ), potem 12 razy co 2 rzędy, a na końcu znowu jeszcze 3 razy co 4rzedy? \r\n3. A jaki jest odstęp między pierwszym zamkniętym oczkiem a tymi 12 razy co 2 rzędy?
21.11.2022 - 07:42DROPS Design answered:
Witaj Moniko, jak zmykamy oczka co kilka rzędów/ w różnej częstotliwości znajdziesz TUTAJ. Wszystkie oczka będą zamykane na prawej stronie robótki. Liczymy wszystkie rzędy (i na prawo i na lewo). Odstęp między pierwszym zamkniętym oczkiem a tymi 12 razy co 2 rzędy wynosi 1 rząd, w 2-gim już zamykamy oczka. Pozdrawiamy!
21.11.2022 kl. 10:05Hi there! For the right and left bands, I am unclear on the instruction "At the same time as you increase at the beginning of the V-neck". Does this refer to the top (near the shoulder) of the V neck (and if so, at the start of the 4 row decrease section or the start of the 2 row decrease section) or at the bottom of the V-neck (by where the botton and button hole go)? Clarification would be much appreciated!
10.11.2022 - 16:54DROPS Design answered:
Dear Alanah, this refers to the very first decrease for V-neck you worked on left/right front piece when piece measured 28-29-30-31-32-33 cm, that's the bottom of V-neck on front pieces. Happy knitting!
11.11.2022 kl. 08:34Oletan että vasemman etukappaleen ohjeessa tulee joustinneuleen jälkeen kaventaa myös 11 silmukkaa koska nyt siinä pitäisi kaventaa 12 ja silti siinä pitäisi olla 53 silmukkaa. Mikä ei ole fyysisesti mahdollista
30.10.2022 - 21:32Hallo, ich habe zur Zunahme bei der rechten Blende eine Frage. Was bedeutet die Rückreihe stricken, bis noch zwei Maschen auf der Nadel sind? Wenn ich direkt am Anfang des V-Ausschnitts zunehmen soll, sind doch noch viel mehr Maschen auf der Nadel? Was bedeutet „gleichzeitig“? Ich stricke dann vier rechte Maschen und nach jeder rechten Masche mache ich einen Umschlag? Vielen Dank für Unterstützung.
14.08.2022 - 17:34DROPS Design answered:
Liebe Frau Wolf, die Rückreihe stricken Sie mit 1 Randmasche kraus rechts beidseitig, dazwischen werden die Maschen wie in A.1 gestrickt und die rechte Maschen direkt beim Beginn des V-Auschnittes stricken Sie 5 Mal (= 4 Maschen werden in dieser masche zugenommen, damit der V-Ausschnitt schöner wird), A.1 enden Sie mit der 1. Masche (= eine links verschränkte Masche bei der Rückreihe so ist das Bündchen symmetrisch). Viel Spaß beim stricken!
15.08.2022 kl. 08:48Kolla om antalet minskningar för vänster framstycke stämmer efter att resåren är gjord? Verkar som ni skrivit 1 m för mycket i alla storlekarna. För höger framstycke har ni en m mindre per storlek. Se kopierad text nedan 1 varv rätt där det minskas 10-11-11-12-14-14 maskor jämnt fördelat = 43-46-50-53-59-65 maskor.
08.07.2022 - 21:22Hi, what size is the model wearing in the picture?
27.05.2022 - 16:49DROPS Design answered:
Dear Abbey, the model is wearing a M size. Happy knitting!
28.05.2022 kl. 21:25