Sweetness Imprint by DROPS Design

Knitted jacket in DROPS Air. The piece is worked bottom up, with lace pattern and picot-edges. Sizes S - XXXL.

DROPS 231-27
DROPS Design: Pattern ai-383
Yarn group C or A + A
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SIZES:
S - M - L - XL - XXL – XXXL

Finished measurements:
Chest measurements: 98-104-112-118-130-144 cm = 38 1/2"-41"-44"-46 1/2"-51 1/4"-56 1/2"
Full length: 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm = 21 1/4"-22"-22 3/4"-23 5/8"-24 3/8"-25 1/4"
All measurements in charts are in cm.

MATERIALS:
DROPS AIR from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
350-350-400-450-500-550 g color 33, pink sand

DROPS MOTHER OF PEARL BUTTONS, Flower (light pink) NO 602: 1 item in all sizes.

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 5 MM = US 8: Length 80 cm = 32”.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4 MM = US 6: Length 80 cm = 32”.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 5 MM = US 8.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 4 MM = US 6.
The technique MAGIC LOOP can be used – you then only need circular needle of 80 cm = 32” in each size.

KNITTING GAUGE:
17 stitches in width and 22 rows in height with stockinette stitch = 10 x 10 cm = 4” x 4”.
NOTE: Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a smaller needle size.

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Magic loop – See the technique here
Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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65% Alpaca, 28% Polyamide, 7% Wool
from 5.50 $ /50g
DROPS Air mix DROPS Air mix 5.50 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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DROPS Air uni colour DROPS Air uni colour 5.50 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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needles DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 38.50$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge = knit 2 rows.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 and A.2. The diagrams show all rows in the pattern from the right side.

DECREASE/INCREASE TIP (evenly spaced):
To work out how to decrease/increase evenly, count the total number of stitches on needle (e.g. 105 stitches), minus the edge stitches (e.g. 2 stitches) and divide the remaining 103 stitches by the number of decreases/increases to be made (e.g. 20) = 5.1.
In this example, decrease by knitting together approx. each 4th and 5th stitch; do not decrease the edge stitches.
When increasing, make 1 yarn over after approx. each 5th stitch. On the next row purl the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.

DECREASE TIP (for sleeves):
Decrease 1 stitch on either side of the marker as follows: Work until there are 3 stitches left before the marker, knit 2 together, knit 2 (marker sits between these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch (2 stitches decreased).

PICOT:
Knit 1, * insert right needle between the next 2 stitches (not through the stitches), make 1 yarn over, pull the yarn over between the stitches and place on left needle *, work from *-* 2 more times (= 3 yarn overs on left needle), knit and bind off 7 stitches (= 1 stitch + 3 yarn overs + 3 stitches). Work from *-* and bind off 7 stitches in the same way along the whole edge. When there are not enough stitches to work another picot, bind off the remaining stitches as usual. Cut the strand and pull it through the last stitch. Fasten.

BINDING-OFF TIP:
To avoid the bind-off edge being tight you can bind off with a larger size needle. If the edge is still tight, make 1 yarn over after approx. each 4th stitch at the same time as binding off; the yarn overs are bind off as normal stitches.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JACKET – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The back and front pieces are worked separately, back and forth on circular needle and bottom up. The sleeves are worked top down, first back and forth on circular needle then in the round with double pointed needles. The piece is sewn together and the bands worked with picot-edges.

BACK PIECE:
Cast on 104-112-120-126-140-154 stitches (including 1 edge stitch on each side) with circular needle size 4 MM = US 6 and DROPS Air. Work rib as follows:
1 edge stitch in GARTER STITCH – read description above, A.1 until there is 1 stitch left and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Continue this rib back and forth for 9 cm = 3 1/2" – adjust so the next row is from the right side. Knit 1 row where you decrease 19-21-23-23-27-29 stitches evenly spaced – read DECREASE/INCREASE TIP = 85-91-97-103-113-125 stitches.
Change to circular needle size 5 MM = US 8.
Purl 1 row with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side.
Now work pattern as follows: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, 3-6-9-5-10-16 stitches in stockinette stitch, A.2 over the next 70-70-70-84-84-84 stitches (= 5-5-5-6-6-6 repeats of 14 stitches), work the first 7 stitches in A.2, 3-6-9-5-10-16 stitches in stockinette stitch and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch.
Continue this pattern until the piece measures 36-37-38-39-40-41 cm = 14 1/4"-14 1/2"-15"-15 1/4"-15 3/4"-16 1/8". REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE!
At the beginning of the next 2 rows bind off 2-4-4-4-7-11 stitches for the armholes = 81-83-89-95-99-103 stitches. Continue with pattern over the middle 77-77-77-91-91-91 stitches, 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side and stockinette stitch over the other 1-2-5-1-3-5 stitches until the piece measures 51-53-55-57-59-61 cm = 20"-21"-21 5/8"-22 1/2"-23 1/4"-24" – adjust so you have at least 2 rows of stockinette stitch after a lace pattern. Continue with stockinette stitch and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side and bind off the middle 29-29-31-31-33-33 stitches for the neck. Each shoulder is finished separately. Bind off 1 stitch on the next row from the neck = 25-26-28-31-32-34 stitches on the shoulder. Continue working until the piece measures 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm = 21 1/4"-22"-22 3/4"-23 5/8"-24 3/8"-25 1/4". Bind off. Work the other shoulder in the same way.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
Cast on 52-56-60-64-72-78 stitches (including 1 edge stitch on each side) with circular needle size 4 MM = US 6 and DROPS Air. Work rib as follows:
1 edge stitch in garter stitch, A.1 until there is 1 stitch left and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Continue this rib back and forth for 9 cm = 3 1/2" – adjust so the next row is from the right side. Knit 1 row where you decrease 9-10-10-11-13-13 stitches evenly spaced = 43-46-50-53-59-65 stitches.
Change to circular needle size 5 MM = US 8.
Purl 1 row with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side.
Now work pattern as follows: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, 3-3-4-4-5-5 stitches in stockinette stitch, A.2 over the next 28-28-28-42-42-42 stitches (= 2-2-2-3-3-3 repeats of 14 stitches), work the first 7-7-7-0-0-0 stitches in A.2 (only applies to sizes S, M, and L; in the other sizes there are no more stitches in A.2), 3-6-9-5-10-16 stitches in stockinette stitch and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch.
Continue this pattern.

OVERVIEW OF THE NEXT SECTION:
Now both the V-neck and armholes are worked at the same time – read the next section before continuing.

V-NECK:
When the piece measures 28-29-30-31-32-33 cm = 11"-11 3/8"-11 3/4"-12 1/4"-12 1/2"-13", start to decrease for the V-neck on the next row from the right side as follows:
1 edge stitch in garter stitch, knit 1, slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch (= 1 stitch decreased), work to end of row. Turn and purl back with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side.
Decrease like this every 4th row 1 time (= the first decrease is explained above), every 2nd row 12-12-13-13-14-14 times, then every 4th row 3 times = 16-16-17-17-18-18 stitches decreased – if the decreases occur in the middle of a lace pattern, work stockinette stitch instead of pattern.
ARMHOLE:
When the piece measures 36-37-38-39-40-41 cm = 14 1/4"-14 1/2"-15"-15 1/4"-15 3/4"-16 1/8", bind off 2-4-4-4-7-11 stitches for the armhole on the next row from the wrong side.
When the decreases for the neck and armhole are finished there are 25-26-28-31-32-34 stitches on the shoulder. Continue with stockinette stitch and 1 edge stitch on garter stitch on each side until the piece measures 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm = 21 1/4"-22"-22 3/4"-23 5/8"-24 3/8"-25 1/4". Bind off.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
Cast on 52-56-60-64-72-78 stitches (including 1 edge stitch on each side) with circular needle size 4 MM = US 6 and DROPS Air. Work rib as follows:
1 edge stitch in garter stitch, A.1 until there is 1 stitch left (adjust so you begin and end with 1 purl (from the right side) so the rib matches when the piece is sewn together, and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Continue this rib back and forth for 9 cm = 3 1/2" – adjust so the next row is from the right side. Knit 1 row where you decrease 9-10-10-11-13-13 stitches evenly spaced = 43-46-50-53-59-65 stitches.
Change to circular needle size 5 MM = US 8.
Purl 1 row with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side.
Now work pattern as follows: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, 3-6-9-5-10-16 stitches in stockinette stitch, start on stitch 1-1-1-7-7-7 in A.2 and continue A.2 over the next 28-28-28-35-35-35 stitches (= 2-2-2-2½-2½-2½ repeats of 14 stitches), work the first 7 stitches in A.2, 3-3-4-4-5-5 stitches in stockinette stitch and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch.
Continue this pattern.

OVERVIEW OF THE NEXT SECTION:
Now both the V-neck and armholes are worked at the same time – read the whole section before continuing.

V-NECK:
When the piece measures 28-29-30-31-32-33 cm = 11"-11 3/8"-11 3/4"-12 1/4"-12 1/2"-13", start to decrease for the V-neck on the next row from the right side as follows:
1 edge stitch in garter stitch, pattern as before until there are 4 stitches left, knit 2 together (1 stitch decreased), knit 1 and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch.
Purl 1 row with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side.
Decrease like this every 4th row 1 time (= the first decrease is explained above), every 2nd row 12-12-13-13-14-14 times, then every 4th row 3 times = 16-16-17-17-18-18 stitches decreased – if the decreases occur in the middle of a lace pattern, work stockinette stitch instead of pattern.
ARMHOLE:
When the piece measures 36-37-38-39-40-41 cm = 14 1/4"-14 1/2"-15"-15 1/4"-15 3/4"-16 1/8", bind off 2-4-4-4-7-11 stitches for the armhole on the next row from the right side.
When the decreases for the neck and armhole are finished there are 25-26-28-31-32-34 stitches on the shoulder. Continue with stockinette stitch and 1 edge stitch on garter stitch on each side until the piece measures 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm = 21 1/4"-22"-22 3/4"-23 5/8"-24 3/8"-25 1/4". Bind off.


SLEEVES:
The sleeves are worked top down.
Cast on 61-65-69-71-75-79 stitches with circular needle size 5 MM = US 8 and DROPS Air. Work stockinette stitch back and forth for 1-2-2-2-4-6 cm = 3/8"-3/4"-3/4"-3/4"-1 1/2"-2 3/8". Then continue in the round as follows:
Insert 1 marker at the beginning of the round; allow the marker to follow your work – it is used when decreasing under the sleeve. Change to double pointed needles size 5 MM = US 8.
Work pattern in the round as follows:
20-22-24-25-27-29 stitches in stockinette stitch, A.2 over the next 14 stitches, work the first 7 stitches in A.2 (so the pattern is symmetrical) and 20-22-24-25-27-29 stitches in stockinette stitch.
When the sleeve measures 3-4-4-4-6-8 cm = 1 1/8"-1 1/2"-1 1/2"-1 1/2"-2 3/8"-3 1/8" from the cast-on edge, decrease 1 stitch on each side of the marker – read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every 5½-4-3½-3½-3-2 cm = 2 1/8"-1 1/2"-1 1/4"-1 1/4"-1 1/8"-3/4" a total of 6-7-8-8-9-11 times = 49-51-53-55-57-57 stitches. Continue working until the sleeve measures 39-39-38-38-38-37 cm = 15 1/4"-15 1/4"-15"-15"-15"-14 1/2" – adjust so you have worked at least 2 rows of stockinette stitch after a lace pattern.
There is approx. 9 cm = 3 1/2" left.
Knit 1 round where you increase 11-13-13-13-13-13 stitches evenly spaced = 60-64-66-68-70-70 stitches. Change to double pointed needles size 4 MM = US 6 and work A.1 for 9 cm = 3 1/2". Bind off with knit over twisted-knit and purl over purl – read BINDING-OFF TIP. The sleeve measures approx. 48-48-47-47-47-46 cm = 19"-19"-18 1/2"-18 1/2"-18 1/2"-18". Work the other sleeve in the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the shoulder seams – start outermost and work in towards the neck. Sew the sleeve cap to the armhole and sew the split to the bottom of the armhole – see sketch. Sew the side seams from the armhole down, inside the 1 edge stitch.
Insert 1 marker mid-back of neck; it is used when working the bands.

RIGHT BAND:
Start at the bottom of the right front piece, with circular needle size 4 MM = US 6 and DROPS Air. Knit up 139 to 163 stitches from the right side inside the 1 edge stitch as far as the marker at the back of the neck. The number of stitches should be divisible by 4 + 3. Turn and work rib (from the wrong side) as follows: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, A.1 until there are 2 stitches left, AT THE SAME TIME as you increase at the beginning of the V-neck as follows (adjust so that the next stitch is a knitted stitch): * Knit 1, 1 yarn over *, work from *-* 4 times (= 4 stitches increased), work the first stitch in A.1 and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch = 143 to 167 stitches. On the next row work the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes, then work the new stitches into A.1.
Continue this rib for 2 cm = 3/4". Now work 1 buttonhole at the bottom of the V-neck.
BUTTONHOLE: Make 1 yarn over (after 1 knit-twisted stitch), knit 2 together. On the next row knit the yarn over to leave a hole.
Continue the rib until the band measures 4½ cm = 1 5/8". Bind off with PICOT – read description above.

LEFT BAND:
Start at the marker on the neck and knit up the same number of stitches as on the right front piece with circular needle size 4 MM = US 6 and DROPS Air.
Turn and work rib (from the wrong side) as follows: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, A.1 until there are 2 stitches left, AT THE SAME TIME as you increase at the beginning of the V-neck as follows (adjust so that the next stitch a knitted stitch): * Knit 1, 1 yarn over *, work from *-* 4 times (= 4 stitches increased), work the first stitch in A.1 and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch = 143 to 167 stitches. On the next row work the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes, then work the new stitches into A.1.
Continue this rib for 4½ cm = 1 5/8". Bind off with picot.
Sew the button onto the left band and sew the bands together at the back of the neck.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = knit from right side, purl from wrong side
symbols = knit twisted from right side, purl twisted from wrong side
symbols = purl from right side, knit from wrong side
symbols = between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over; on the next row purl the yarn over to leave a hole
symbols = knit 2 together
symbols = slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch
symbols = Sew the sleeve cap to the armhole as follows: a to A and b to B
diagram
diagram
diagram

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 231-27) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

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Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Comments / Questions (18)

country flag Monika wrote:

Dziękuję w końcu zrozumiałam 😀😀

21.11.2022 - 10:19

country flag Monika wrote:

Dzień dobry,:Zamykać tak samo 1 raz co 4 rzędy (1-sze zamykanie oczek jest opisane powyżej), 12-12-13-13-14-14 razy co 2 rzędy i 3 razy co 4 rzędy Rozmiar M\r\n1. Liczymy tylko rzędy które są przerabiane na prawo czy na lewo też? \r\n2.czyli najpierw zamykam oczko pierwsze (z cyklu 1 raz co 4 rzędy ), potem 12 razy co 2 rzędy, a na końcu znowu jeszcze 3 razy co 4rzedy? \r\n3. A jaki jest odstęp między pierwszym zamkniętym oczkiem a tymi 12 razy co 2 rzędy?

21.11.2022 - 07:42

DROPS Design answered:

Witaj Moniko, jak zmykamy oczka co kilka rzędów/ w różnej częstotliwości znajdziesz TUTAJ. Wszystkie oczka będą zamykane na prawej stronie robótki. Liczymy wszystkie rzędy (i na prawo i na lewo). Odstęp między pierwszym zamkniętym oczkiem a tymi 12 razy co 2 rzędy wynosi 1 rząd, w 2-gim już zamykamy oczka. Pozdrawiamy!

21.11.2022 kl. 10:05

country flag Alanah wrote:

Hi there! For the right and left bands, I am unclear on the instruction "At the same time as you increase at the beginning of the V-neck". Does this refer to the top (near the shoulder) of the V neck (and if so, at the start of the 4 row decrease section or the start of the 2 row decrease section) or at the bottom of the V-neck (by where the botton and button hole go)? Clarification would be much appreciated!

10.11.2022 - 16:54

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Alanah, this refers to the very first decrease for V-neck you worked on left/right front piece when piece measured 28-29-30-31-32-33 cm, that's the bottom of V-neck on front pieces. Happy knitting!

11.11.2022 kl. 08:34

country flag Niina wrote:

Oletan että vasemman etukappaleen ohjeessa tulee joustinneuleen jälkeen kaventaa myös 11 silmukkaa koska nyt siinä pitäisi kaventaa 12 ja silti siinä pitäisi olla 53 silmukkaa. Mikä ei ole fyysisesti mahdollista

30.10.2022 - 21:32

country flag Wolf Angelika wrote:

Hallo, ich habe zur Zunahme bei der rechten Blende eine Frage. Was bedeutet die Rückreihe stricken, bis noch zwei Maschen auf der Nadel sind? Wenn ich direkt am Anfang des V-Ausschnitts zunehmen soll, sind doch noch viel mehr Maschen auf der Nadel? Was bedeutet „gleichzeitig“? Ich stricke dann vier rechte Maschen und nach jeder rechten Masche mache ich einen Umschlag? Vielen Dank für Unterstützung.

14.08.2022 - 17:34

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Wolf, die Rückreihe stricken Sie mit 1 Randmasche kraus rechts beidseitig, dazwischen werden die Maschen wie in A.1 gestrickt und die rechte Maschen direkt beim Beginn des V-Auschnittes stricken Sie 5 Mal (= 4 Maschen werden in dieser masche zugenommen, damit der V-Ausschnitt schöner wird), A.1 enden Sie mit der 1. Masche (= eine links verschränkte Masche bei der Rückreihe so ist das Bündchen symmetrisch). Viel Spaß beim stricken!

15.08.2022 kl. 08:48

country flag Veronica Ekengren wrote:

Kolla om antalet minskningar för vänster framstycke stämmer efter att resåren är gjord? Verkar som ni skrivit 1 m för mycket i alla storlekarna. För höger framstycke har ni en m mindre per storlek. Se kopierad text nedan  1 varv rätt där det minskas 10-11-11-12-14-14 maskor jämnt fördelat = 43-46-50-53-59-65 maskor.

08.07.2022 - 21:22

country flag Abbey wrote:

Hi, what size is the model wearing in the picture?

27.05.2022 - 16:49

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Abbey, the model is wearing a M size. Happy knitting!

28.05.2022 kl. 21:25

country flag Angelika Huneke wrote:

Hallo, ich habe eine Frage zur Maschenzunahme bei der Blende. Was genau ist mit Beginn des V-Ausschnitt gemeint? Da ich ja in einer Rückreihe bin beginnt die Zunahme oben, bei der letzten Maschenabnahme oder unten bei der ersten Maschenabnahme? Wo genau ist der Beginn des V-Ausschnitt?

17.05.2022 - 12:53

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Hunecke, dies die Reihe bei jedem Vorderteil, wo Sie das erste Mal für den V-Halsausschnitt abgenommen haben, dh nach 28-29-30-31-32-33 cm (von unten gemessen). Hier können Sie diese Stelle bei der Hinreihe markieren, damit es einfacher bei der Rückreihe wird. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

17.05.2022 kl. 14:25

country flag Joy wrote:

Hi! i don’t understand this on the V neck right side. Decrease like this every 4th row 1 time (= the first decrease is explained above), every 2nd row 12-12-13-13-14-14 times, then every 4th row 3 times = 16-16-17-17-18-18 stitches decreased. You said to decrease 4th row 1 time.. then 3 times??

11.05.2022 - 14:53

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Joy, you first decrease when piece measures 28-29-30-31-32-33 cm, then work 3 rows as before (without decreasing) and now work *1 row decreasing for neck, 1 row without decreasing for neck*, work these 2 rows a total of 12-12-13-13-14-14 times, then work: *1 row decreasing for neck, 3 rows without decreasing*, work these 4 rows a total of 3 times. Happy knitting!

11.05.2022 kl. 16:07

country flag Reuhl wrote:

Guten Tag, wie funktioniert es bei den Ärmeln nach 1cm Hin und zurück (Rundnadel) die Maschen auf ein Nadelspiel zu legen? Danke. :)

27.04.2022 - 13:58

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Reuhl, Sie stricken zuerst 1 cm hin und zurück und dann legen Sie die Arbeit zusammen und stricken entwder mit Nadelspiel oder Magic loop. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

27.04.2022 kl. 15:25

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