DROPS Air
DROPS Air
65% Alpaca, 28% Polyamide, 7% Wool
from 5.30 € /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 37.10€.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

Sweetness Imprint

Knitted jacket in DROPS Air. The piece is worked bottom up, with lace pattern and picot-edges. Sizes S - XXXL.

DROPS 231-27
DROPS Design: Pattern ai-383
Yarn group C or A + A
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SIZES:
S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL

MATERIALS:
DROPS AIR from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
350-350-400-450-500-550 g colour 33, pink sand

DROPS MOTHER OF PEARL BUTTONS, Flower (light pink) NO 602: 1 item in all sizes.

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 5 MM: Length 80 cm.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4 MM: Length 80 cm.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 5 MM.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 4 MM.
The technique MAGIC LOOP can be used – you then only need circular needle of 80 cm in each size.

KNITTING TENSION:
17 stitches in width and 22 rows in height with stocking stitch = 10 x 10 cm.
NOTE: Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller needle size.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Air
DROPS Air
65% Alpaca, 28% Polyamide, 7% Wool
from 5.30 € /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 37.10€.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge = knit 2 rows.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 and A.2. The diagrams show all rows in the pattern from the right side.

DECREASE/INCREASE TIP (evenly spaced):
To work out how to decrease/increase evenly, count the total number of stitches on needle (e.g. 105 stitches), minus the edge stitches (e.g. 2 stitches) and divide the remaining 103 stitches by the number of decreases/increases to be made (e.g. 20) = 5.1.
In this example, decrease by knitting together approx. each 4th and 5th stitch; do not decrease the edge stitches.
When increasing, make 1 yarn over after approx. each 5th stitch. On the next row purl the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.

DECREASE TIP (for sleeves):
Decrease 1 stitch on either side of the marker as follows: Work until there are 3 stitches left before the marker, knit 2 together, knit 2 (marker sits between these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch (2 stitches decreased).

PICOT:
Knit 1, * insert right needle between the next 2 stitches (not through the stitches), make 1 yarn over, pull the yarn over between the stitches and place on left needle *, work from *-* 2 more times (= 3 yarn overs on left needle), knit and cast off 7 stitches (= 1 stitch + 3 yarn overs + 3 stitches). Work from *-* and cast off 7 stitches in the same way along the whole edge. When there are not enough stitches to work another picot, cast off the remaining stitches as usual. Cut the strand and pull it through the last stitch. Fasten.

CASTING-OFF TIP:
To avoid the cast-off edge being tight you can cast off with a larger size needle. If the edge is still tight, make 1 yarn over after approx. each 4th stitch at the same time as casting off; the yarn overs are cast off as normal stitches.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JACKET – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The back and front pieces are worked separately, back and forth on circular needle and bottom up. The sleeves are worked top down, first back and forth on circular needle then in the round with double pointed needles. The piece is sewn together and the bands worked with picot-edges.

BACK PIECE:
Cast on 104-112-120-126-140-154 stitches (including 1 edge stitch on each side) with circular needle size 4 mm and DROPS Air. Work rib as follows:
1 edge stitch in GARTER STITCH – read description above, A.1 until there is 1 stitch left and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Continue this rib back and forth for 9 cm – adjust so the next row is from the right side. Knit 1 row where you decrease 19-21-23-23-27-29 stitches evenly spaced – read DECREASE/INCREASE TIP = 85-91-97-103-113-125 stitches.
Change to circular needle size 5 mm.
Purl 1 row with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side.
Now work pattern as follows: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, 3-6-9-5-10-16 stitches in stocking stitch, A.2 over the next 70-70-70-84-84-84 stitches (= 5-5-5-6-6-6 repeats of 14 stitches), work the first 7 stitches in A.2, 3-6-9-5-10-16 stitches in stocking stitch and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch.
Continue this pattern until the piece measures 36-37-38-39-40-41 cm. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
At the beginning of the next 2 rows cast off 2-4-4-4-7-11 stitches for the armholes = 81-83-89-95-99-103 stitches. Continue with pattern over the middle 77-77-77-91-91-91 stitches, 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side and stocking stitch over the other 1-2-5-1-3-5 stitches until the piece measures 51-53-55-57-59-61 cm – adjust so you have at least 2 rows of stocking stitch after a lace pattern. Continue with stocking stitch and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side and cast off the middle 29-29-31-31-33-33 stitches for the neck. Each shoulder is finished separately. Cast off 1 stitch on the next row from the neck = 25-26-28-31-32-34 stitches on the shoulder. Continue working until the piece measures 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm. Cast off. Work the other shoulder in the same way.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
Cast on 52-56-60-64-72-78 stitches (including 1 edge stitch on each side) with circular needle size 4 mm and DROPS Air. Work rib as follows:
1 edge stitch in garter stitch, A.1 until there is 1 stitch left and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Continue this rib back and forth for 9 cm – adjust so the next row is from the right side. Knit 1 row where you decrease 9-10-10-11-13-13 stitches evenly spaced = 43-46-50-53-59-65 stitches.
Change to circular needle size 5 mm.
Purl 1 row with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side.
Now work pattern as follows: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, 3-3-4-4-5-5 stitches in stocking stitch, A.2 over the next 28-28-28-42-42-42 stitches (= 2-2-2-3-3-3 repeats of 14 stitches), work the first 7-7-7-0-0-0 stitches in A.2 (only applies to sizes S, M, and L; in the other sizes there are no more stitches in A.2), 3-6-9-5-10-16 stitches in stocking stitch and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch.
Continue this pattern.

OVERVIEW OF THE NEXT SECTION:
Now both the V-neck and armholes are worked at the same time – read the next section before continuing.

V-NECK:
When the piece measures 28-29-30-31-32-33 cm, start to decrease for the V-neck on the next row from the right side as follows:
1 edge stitch in garter stitch, knit 1, slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch (= 1 stitch decreased), work to end of row. Turn and purl back with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side.
Decrease like this every 4th row 1 time (= the first decrease is explained above), every 2nd row 12-12-13-13-14-14 times, then every 4th row 3 times = 16-16-17-17-18-18 stitches decreased – if the decreases occur in the middle of a lace pattern, work stocking stitch instead of pattern.
ARMHOLE:
When the piece measures 36-37-38-39-40-41 cm, cast off 2-4-4-4-7-11 stitches for the armhole on the next row from the wrong side.
When the decreases for the neck and armhole are finished there are 25-26-28-31-32-34 stitches on the shoulder. Continue with stocking stitch and 1 edge stitch on garter stitch on each side until the piece measures 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm. Cast off.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
Cast on 52-56-60-64-72-78 stitches (including 1 edge stitch on each side) with circular needle size 4 mm and DROPS Air. Work rib as follows:
1 edge stitch in garter stitch, A.1 until there is 1 stitch left (adjust so you begin and end with 1 purl (from the right side) so the rib matches when the piece is sewn together, and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Continue this rib back and forth for 9 cm – adjust so the next row is from the right side. Knit 1 row where you decrease 9-10-10-11-13-13 stitches evenly spaced = 43-46-50-53-59-65 stitches.
Change to circular needle size 5 mm.
Purl 1 row with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side.
Now work pattern as follows: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, 3-6-9-5-10-16 stitches in stocking stitch, start on stitch 1-1-1-7-7-7 in A.2 and continue A.2 over the next 28-28-28-35-35-35 stitches (= 2-2-2-2½-2½-2½ repeats of 14 stitches), work the first 7 stitches in A.2, 3-3-4-4-5-5 stitches in stocking stitch and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch.
Continue this pattern.

OVERVIEW OF THE NEXT SECTION:
Now both the V-neck and armholes are worked at the same time – read the whole section before continuing.

V-NECK:
When the piece measures 28-29-30-31-32-33 cm, start to decrease for the V-neck on the next row from the right side as follows:
1 edge stitch in garter stitch, pattern as before until there are 4 stitches left, knit 2 together (1 stitch decreased), knit 1 and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch.
Purl 1 row with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side.
Decrease like this every 4th row 1 time (= the first decrease is explained above), every 2nd row 12-12-13-13-14-14 times, then every 4th row 3 times = 16-16-17-17-18-18 stitches decreased – if the decreases occur in the middle of a lace pattern, work stocking stitch instead of pattern.
ARMHOLE:
When the piece measures 36-37-38-39-40-41 cm, cast off 2-4-4-4-7-11 stitches for the armhole on the next row from the right side.
When the decreases for the neck and armhole are finished there are 25-26-28-31-32-34 stitches on the shoulder. Continue with stocking stitch and 1 edge stitch on garter stitch on each side until the piece measures 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm. Cast off.


SLEEVES:
The sleeves are worked top down.
Cast on 61-65-69-71-75-79 stitches with circular needle size 5 mm and DROPS Air. Work stocking stitch back and forth for 1-2-2-2-4-6 cm. Then continue in the round as follows:
Insert 1 marker at the beginning of the round; allow the marker to follow your work – it is used when decreasing under the sleeve. Change to double pointed needles size 5 mm.
Work pattern in the round as follows:
20-22-24-25-27-29 stitches in stocking stitch, A.2 over the next 14 stitches, work the first 7 stitches in A.2 (so the pattern is symmetrical) and 20-22-24-25-27-29 stitches in stocking stitch.
When the sleeve measures 3-4-4-4-6-8 cm from the cast-on edge, decrease 1 stitch on each side of the marker – read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every 5½-4-3½-3½-3-2 cm a total of 6-7-8-8-9-11 times = 49-51-53-55-57-57 stitches. Continue working until the sleeve measures 39-39-38-38-38-37 cm – adjust so you have worked at least 2 rows of stocking stitch after a lace pattern.
There is approx. 9 cm left.
Knit 1 round where you increase 11-13-13-13-13-13 stitches evenly spaced = 60-64-66-68-70-70 stitches. Change to double pointed needles size 4 mm and work A.1 for 9 cm. Cast off with knit over twisted-knit and purl over purl – read CASTING-OFF TIP. The sleeve measures approx. 48-48-47-47-47-46 cm. Work the other sleeve in the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the shoulder seams – start outermost and work in towards the neck. Sew the sleeve cap to the armhole and sew the split to the bottom of the armhole – see sketch. Sew the side seams from the armhole down, inside the 1 edge stitch.
Insert 1 marker mid-back of neck; it is used when working the bands.

RIGHT BAND:
Start at the bottom of the right front piece, with circular needle size 4 mm and DROPS Air. Knit up 139 to 163 stitches from the right side inside the 1 edge stitch as far as the marker at the back of the neck. The number of stitches should be divisible by 4 + 3. Turn and work rib (from the wrong side) as follows: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, A.1 until there are 2 stitches left, AT THE SAME TIME as you increase at the beginning of the V-neck as follows (adjust so that the next stitch is a knitted stitch): * Knit 1, 1 yarn over *, work from *-* 4 times (= 4 stitches increased), work the first stitch in A.1 and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch = 143 to 167 stitches. On the next row work the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes, then work the new stitches into A.1.
Continue this rib for 2 cm. Now work 1 buttonhole at the bottom of the V-neck.
BUTTONHOLE: Make 1 yarn over (after 1 knit-twisted stitch), knit 2 together. On the next row knit the yarn over to leave a hole.
Continue the rib until the band measures 4½ cm. Cast off with PICOT – read description above.

LEFT BAND:
Start at the marker on the neck and knit up the same number of stitches as on the right front piece with circular needle size 4 mm and DROPS Air.
Turn and work rib (from the wrong side) as follows: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, A.1 until there are 2 stitches left, AT THE SAME TIME as you increase at the beginning of the V-neck as follows (adjust so that the next stitch a knitted stitch): * Knit 1, 1 yarn over *, work from *-* 4 times (= 4 stitches increased), work the first stitch in A.1 and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch = 143 to 167 stitches. On the next row work the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes, then work the new stitches into A.1.
Continue this rib for 4½ cm. Cast off with picot.
Sew the button onto the left band and sew the bands together at the back of the neck.

Diagram

symbols = knit from right side, purl from wrong side
symbols = knit twisted from right side, purl twisted from wrong side
symbols = purl from right side, knit from wrong side
symbols = between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over; on the next row purl the yarn over to leave a hole
symbols = knit 2 together
symbols = slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch
symbols = Sew the sleeve cap to the armhole as follows: a to A and b to B
diagram
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (27)

country flag Katie Franklin wrote:

Great pattern! Knitted this up with Knit Picks Wonderfluff in Wonderland Heather! [I live in the states so Drops is hard to come by :( ] I used 4.5 & 4 mm needles and I used ~300 grams of yarn. I wish I could post a picture here because it is such a lovely gift for my mother!

17.03.2024 - 18:16

country flag Barbora wrote:

Hello, if Im beginning the test for knitting tension what size of needle am I suppose to use 4mm or 5 mm? It doesnt say in the manual. Thank you

28.01.2024 - 18:16

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Barbora, the 4mm needles are only used for the rib. So, since we will only use the 5mm needles for the stocking stitch pattern we need to calculate the gauge with those. Happy knitting!

28.01.2024 - 23:15

country flag Iona Jeanie Eadie wrote:

I understand your schematic drawings to calculate which size I should knit but can you please say which size the model is wearing as this will give the 'truest' indication of the size I need to knit. AND just to clarify: the bottom of the garment smallest size 49 (x 2) = 98cm, which = 38inches, and is this for the FINISHED garment? AND since it appears to be square in shape, does this mean the finished bust measurement would also be 38 inches please? :)

18.09.2023 - 21:04

country flag Iona Jeanie Eadie wrote:

I understand your schematic drawings to calculate which size I should knit but can you please say which size the model is wearing as this will give the 'truest' indication of the size I need to knit. AND just to clarify: the bottom of the garment smallest size 49 (x 2) = 98cm, which = 38inches, and is this for the FINISHED garment? AND since it appears to be square in shape, does this mean the finished bust measurement would also be 38 inches please? :)

18.09.2023 - 21:03

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Eadie, the shematic drawing shows the finished measurements in cm, so that width of piece on the bottom will be 49 cm in size S lying flat x 2 = 98 cm circumference. Our models most often wear a size S or a size M. Measuring a similar garment you have and like the shape will help you finding the best matching size, as every body is different. Happy knitting!

19.09.2023 - 09:07

country flag Flo wrote:

Hallo... Ein schönes Teil 😄. Gibt es die Anleitung auch in deutsch, Englisch oder französischer? Danke

24.07.2023 - 12:26

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Flo, alle unsere Anleitungen sind in deutsch, English und französisch erhältlich :) Klicken Sie auf dem dropdown Menu unter die Fotos um die Sprache zu ändern. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

28.07.2023 - 08:08

country flag Christy wrote:

Hello! I'm having trouble understanding how to do the ribbing for the right and left side. Where do I place the marker? And are the ribbings suppose to be separated then?

09.07.2023 - 22:54

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Christy, the marker was inserted in the center of the back of the neck, in the section ASSEMBLY. Now you will pick up stitches on both sides, from the bottom edge of the right front piece for the right edge and from the bottom edge of the left front piece for the left edge. Pick up stitches upwards toward the back of the neck until reaching the marker. You can see how to pick up stitches in the following video: https://www.garnstudio.com/video.php?id=58&lang=en. So they won't be separated from their respective front piece but left and right edges will be separate from each other. Ensure that both edges have the same amount of stitches. Happy knitting!

10.07.2023 - 18:00

country flag Hyunjung wrote:

Hello, I'm on right front piece right now and I think there is a mistake on V-neck decreasing for XL and XXL size. For XL, there are 59 sts before decrease and if I follow the pattern, I'm gonna have 33 sts on my needle. (59-1-1-14-3-7= 33) Could you please check this part again?

16.02.2023 - 19:23

country flag Tatiana wrote:

Dziękuję bardzo. Już wszystko jasne🙃

15.02.2023 - 14:55

country flag Tatiana wrote:

Poproszę o pomoc:) pytanie dotyczy obszycia przodów; w którym miejscu dodajemy oczka na dole i początku dekoltu V; nie rozumiem co to jest dół, a co początek dekoltu V; czy to jest miejsce, gdzie zaczynamy zamykać oczka na dekolt, czy sam dół robótki w obu przodach?

14.02.2023 - 21:06

DROPS Design answered:

Witaj Tatiano, dół swetra jest na dole prawego przodu i tyłu (od środka przodów). Od tego momentu zaczynasz nabieranie oczek na obszycia przodów. Dół/początek dekoltu V jest to miejsce, gdzie będzie znajdował się pierwszy guzik (na górze swetra); tutaj dodajemy oczka, aby łuk ładnie się układał. Pozdrawiamy!

15.02.2023 - 08:31

country flag Monika wrote:

Dziękuję w końcu zrozumiałam 😀😀

21.11.2022 - 10:19