DROPS Melody
DROPS Melody
71% Alpaca, 25% Wool, 4% Polyamide
from 6.35 $ /50g
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 31.75$. Read more.

Rhythmic Rain

Knitted sweater in DROPS Melody. The piece is worked top down with round yoke, ribbed edges and split in the sides. Sizes S - XXXL.

DROPS 228-42
DROPS Design: Pattern no ml-070
Yarn group D

S - M - L - XL – XXL - XXXL

Finished measurements:
Chest measurements: 94-100-106-116-130-144 cm = 37"-39 3/8"-41 3/4"-45 3/4"-51 1/4"-56 1/2"
Full length: 58-60-62-64-66-68 cm = 22 3/4"-23 5/8"-24 3/8"-25 1/4"-26"-26 3/4"
All measurements in charts are in cm.

DROPS MELODY from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group D)
250-300-300-350-350-400 g color 02, fog

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 8 MM = US 11: Length 40 cm = 16” and 80 cm = 32”.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 6 MM = US 10: Length 40 cm = 16” and 80 cm = 32”.
The technique MAGIC LOOP can be used – you then only need circular needle of 80 cm = 32” in each size.

12 stitches in width and 14 rows in height with stockinette stitch = 10 x 10 cm = 4” x 4”.
NOTE: Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a smaller needle size.


Magic loop – See the technique here
Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here


DROPS Melody
DROPS Melody
71% Alpaca, 25% Wool, 4% Polyamide
from 6.35 $ /50g
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 31.75$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.



RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge = knit 2 rows.

INCREASE TIP (evenly spaced):
To work out how to increase evenly, count the total number of stitches on the needle (e.g. 120 stitches) and divide by the number of increases to be made (e.g. 12) = 10.
In this example, increase by making 1 yarn over after each 10th stitch. On the next round work the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.

DECREASE TIP (sleeves):
Decrease 1 stitch on either side of the marker thread as follows: Work until there are 3 stitches left before the marker thread, knit 2 together, knit 2 (marker thread sits between these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch (2 stitches decreased).

To avoid the bind-off edge being tight you can bind off with a larger size needle. If the edge is still tight, make 1 yarn over after approx. each 4th stitch at the same time as binding off; the yarn overs are bind off as normal stitches.




The neck and yoke are worked in the round with circular needle, top down from mid-back. The yoke is divided for the body and sleeves and the body continued in the round as far as the split, when the front and back pieces are finished separately back and forth. The sleeves are worked in the round with short circular needle/double pointed needles, top down.

Cast on 60-62-64-68-74-76 stitches with circular needle size 6 MM = US 10 and DROPS Melody.
Knit 1 round then work rib (knit 1, purl 1) for 5 cm = 2". Insert a marker at the beginning of the round; the yoke is measured from here.

Continue the rib for another 5 cm = 2", then increase as follows:
Increase 1 stitch by making 1 yarn over at the beginning of all purled sections = 90-93-96-102-111-114 stitches.
Continue the new rib (knit 1, purl 2); the yarn overs are purled twisted on the first round to avoid holes.
When the piece measures 10 cm = 4” from the marker, increase 1 stitch by making 1 yarn over at the end of all purled sections = 120-124-128-136-148-152 stitches.
Continue the new rib (knit 1, purl 3); the yarn overs are purled twisted on the first round to avoid holes.
When the piece measures 13 cm = 5 1/8" from the marker change to circular needle size 8 MM = US 11. Knit 1 round where you increase 12-20-22-24-26-32 stitches evenly spaced – read INCREASE TIP = 132-144-150-160-174-184 stitches.
Continue with stockinette stitch. When the piece measures 15 cm = 6" from the marker increase 10 stitches evenly spaced. Increase like this every 2½-3-2½- 2½-2-2 cm = 1"-1 1/8"-1"- 1"-3/4"-3/4" a total of 4-4-5-6-7-8 times = 172-184-200-220-244-264 stitches.
Continue with stockinette stitch until the piece measures 25-27-28-30-32-34 cm = 9 3/4"-10 5/8"-11"-11 3/4"-12 1/2"-13 3/8" from the marker.
Divide for the body and sleeves on the next round as follows:
Knit 25-27-29-32-36-40 (= half back piece), place the next 36-38-42-46-50-52 stitches on 1 thread for the sleeve, cast on 6 stitches (= in side under sleeve), knit 50-54-58-64-72-80 (= front piece), place the next 36-38-42-46-50-52 stitches on 1 thread for the sleeve, cast on 6 stitches (= in side under sleeve), knit the last 25-27-29-32-36-40 stitches (= half back piece). The body and sleeves are finished separately. THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE!

= 112-120-128-140-156-172 stitches. Continue with stockinette stitch in the round for 13-13-14-14-14-14 cm = 5 1/8"-5 1/8"-5 1/2"-5 1/2"-5 1/2"-5 1/2" (or to desired length; there is approx. 16 cm = 6 1/4" left to finished length). Now divide the piece for the split as follows: Place the first and last 28-30-32-35-39-43 stitches on a thread = 56-60-64-70-78-86 stitches on the needle (= front piece).

To avoid the following rib being tight, knit 1 row from the right side where you increase 23-25-25-27-31-33 stitches evenly spaced = 79-85-89-97-109-119 stitches.
Change to circular needle size 6 MM = US 10 and work the next row from the wrong side as follows: 2 stitches in GARTER STITCH – read description above, * purl 1, knit 1 *, work from *-* until there are 3 stitches left, purl 1 and 2 stitches in garter stitch. Work this rib for 16 cm = 6 1/4". Bind off with knit over knit and purl over purl – read BINDING-OFF TIP.

Place the remaining stitches on circular needle size 8 MM = US 11 and work as for the front piece.

Place the 36-38-42-46-50-52 stitches from the thread on the one side of the piece on double pointed needles/short circular needle size 8 MM = US 11 and knit up 1 stitch in each of the 6 stitches cast on under the sleeve = 42-44-48-52-56-58 stitches. Insert a marker thread in the middle of the 6 stitches under the sleeve. Allow the thread to follow your work onwards; it will be used when decreasing under the sleeve.
Start at the marker thread and work stockinette stitch in the round for 2 cm = 3/4", then decrease 2 stitches under the sleeve – read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every 8-8-4½-3½-2½-2½ cm = 3 1/8"-3 1/8"-1 5/8"-1 1/4"-1"-1" a total of 4-4-6-7-8-8 times = 34-36-36-38-40-42 stitches.
Continue working, without further decreases, until the sleeve measures 29-28-27-26-23-22 cm = 11 3/8"-11"-10 5/8"-10 1/4"-9"-8 3/4" from the division (there is approx. 12 cm = 4 3/4" to finished length; try the sweater on and work to desired length).
Knit 1 round where you increase 6 stitches evenly spaced = 40-42-42-44-46-48 stitches. Change to double pointed needles size 6 MM = US 10 and work rib (knit 1, purl 1) for 12 cm = 4 3/4". Bind off with knit over knit and purl over purl – remember BINDING-OFF TIP!
The sleeve measures approx. 41-40-39-38-35-34 cm = 16 1/8"-15 3/4"-15 1/4"-15"-13 3/4"-13 3/8" from the division.
Work the other sleeve in the same way.


All measurements in charts are in cm.

diagram measurements

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (35)

country flag Linda wrote:

Where can I find finished measurements of this garment please, I am unsure which size to follow? I have everything needed now to start, Drops Melody powder pink and I'm excited to get started on this Rhythmic rain sweater. Kindest regards Linda

18.02.2024 - 18:46

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Linda, the measurements in cm for each size are indicated in the size chart, at the end of the pattern. This lesson can help you understand and read the size chart: https://www.garnstudio.com/lesson.php?id=24&cid=19. Happy knitting!

18.02.2024 - 20:03

country flag Dar wrote:

Vorrei lavorare questo modello ma con un capo di alpaca e uno di brushed alpaca silk, come faccio a sapere quanti gomitoli comperare di ognuno? (nella lezione "Cambio di filato" non viene spiegato come convertire un filato in due più piccoli ma soltanto il contrario)

17.01.2024 - 10:51

country flag Petra Wache wrote:

Guten Tag,\r\nIch würde gerne dieses Modell mit 3 Fäden Kidsilk Stricken.\r\nWelche Nadelstärken soll ich nehmen und wieviel Gramm KidSilk benötige ich.\r\nIch stricke normalerweise Ihre Anleitungen in Größe M. (Konfektionsgröße 38)\r\nVielen Dank im Voraus für Ihre Hilfe.\r\n\r\nMit freundlichen Grüßen \r\nPetra Wache

19.11.2023 - 10:33

country flag Susanne Lang wrote:

Hej jeg vil gerne strikke denne trøje men ikke i det garn der er anvist. Jeg har garn Alpakka Soft og det er til pinde 3,5. hvor meget skal jeg øge maskeantal og ud og indtagning for at få samme resultat ? Håber virkelig i kan Hjælpe. hilsen Susanne

19.10.2023 - 14:07

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Susanne, vælg et garn hvor du kan få strikkefastheden som står i opskriften, ellers vil størrelserne ikke passe :)

20.10.2023 - 10:57

country flag Torunn Riise-Larsen wrote:

Er strikkefastheten 12m på 10 cm med pinne 6 eller pinne 8? Og hva slags økning anbefales på det glattstrikket partiet?

30.08.2023 - 22:37

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Torunn, Strikkefastheten er målt med pinnestr. 8. Du øker masker ved å lage kast som er strikket vridd på neste omgang slik at det ikke blir hull (strikk bakløkken i kastet for å strikke vridd). God fornøyelse!

31.08.2023 - 06:48

country flag Michelle wrote:

I am obsessed with Sky yarn. So much so, that I choose patterns with this weight. I love this pattern, but obviously Melody is in an entirely different group. Can you tell me how to convert the pattern (for example, do I do 2 stitches in Sky for every 1 of Melody)? Thank so much!

01.08.2023 - 00:47

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Michelle, you can use 2 strands DROPS Sky to replace1 Strand DROPS Melody, just use the yarn converter to get the new amount for Sky. Happy knitting!

01.08.2023 - 09:33

country flag Lella wrote:

Buongiorno,sono giunta al momento di proseguire la schiena. Viene detto di proseguire come per il davanti dopo aver caricato i punti sui ferri n. 8. Il davanti però è stato terminato coi ferri numero 6. Inoltre chiedo se anche per il dietro è necessario, durante il giro di dritto prima delle coste, si devono aumentare i punti indicati per il davanti. Grazie

24.03.2023 - 18:18

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Lella, deve seguire le istruzioni riportate per il davanti anche per il dietro, compresi gli aumenti e il cambio di ferri. Buon lavoro!

27.03.2023 - 22:17

country flag Carole wrote:

Comment trouver la quantité de laine à acheter dans les patrons que vous offrez dans drop designs. J’aimerais acheter dans vos boutiques en ligne.

22.02.2023 - 21:58

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Carole, vous trouverez la quantité indiquée au poids pour chaque taille dans l'en-tête; il faut par ex 250 g DROPS Melody pour ce modèle en taille S, divisé par 50 g la pelote de Melody = il vous faudra 5 pelotes. Retrouvez la liste des magasins DROPS au Canada (contactez Nordic Yarn) ou livrant au Canada ici. Bon tricot!

23.02.2023 - 13:46

country flag Brunet Françoise wrote:

Je comprends pas pour le col je suis a 64 mailles et pour l'empiècement augmenter 1maille au début de chaque section 96 mailles tous les combien je dois augmenter je ne comprends pas

07.12.2022 - 06:14

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Brunet, vous tricotez en côtes 1 m end, 2 m env, et devez augmenter maintenant le nombre de mailles envers des côtes ainsi: (1 m end, 2 m env, 1 jeté) répétez de (à) tout le tour, et, au tour suivant, tricotez en côtes (1 m end, 3 m env) en tricotant le jeté torse à l'envers. Bon tricot!

07.12.2022 - 08:18

country flag Lucie wrote:

Bonjour, Lors de l'étape de séparation du dos et du devant, je ne comprends pas comment faire car mon fil se trouve au milieu des mailles mises en attente ? Vous remerciant par avance pour votre aide :) Lucie

15.11.2022 - 19:37

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Lucie, tricotez jusqu'à l'un des côtés du pull et mettez les mailles en attente pour ne tricoter que le devant et mettre les mailles du dos en attente. Bon tricot!

16.11.2022 - 09:19