Bronze Summer Sweater by DROPS Design
Knitted sweater in DROPS Air. Piece is knitted top down with raglan and lace pattern on sleeves. Size: S - XXXL
Yarn group C or A + A
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SIZE:
S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Finished measurements:
Chest measurements: 88-96-104-112-128-138 cm = 34 5/8"-37 3/4"-41"-44"-50 3/8"-54 1/4"
Full length: 56-58-60-62-64-66 cm = 22"-22 3/4"-23 5/8"-24 3/8"-25 1/4"-26"
All measurements in charts are in cm.
MATERIALS:
DROPS AIR from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
300-350-400-400-450-500 g color no 02, wheat
KNITTING GAUGE:
17 stitches in width and 22 rows vertically in stockinette stitch = 10 x 10 cm = 4” x 4”.
NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 5 mm = US 8
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 5 mm = US 8: Length 40 cm = 16”, and 60 = 24” or 80 cm = 32” for stockinette stitch.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 4 mm = US 6
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4 mm = US 6: Length 40 = 16” and 80 cm. =32” for rib.
DROPS CABLE NEEDLE - for cables.
Needle size is only a suggestion! If you have too many stitches on 10 cm = 4” switch to a larger needle size. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm = 4” switch to a smaller needle size.
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Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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DROPS Air 65% Alpaca, 28% Polyamide, 7% Wool |
from 6.60 $ /50g | Order | ||||||||
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EXPLANATION FOR THE PATTERN:
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PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 and A.2.
RAGLAN:
Increase 1 stitch on each side of 1 stitch in stockinette stitch (stitch with marker) in every transition between body and sleeves (= 8 stitches increased on round). Increase 1 stitch by making 1 yarn over. On next round work yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. Then work the new stitches in stockinette stitch.
DECREASE TIP (applies to sleeves):
Decrease 1 stitch on each side of marker thread as follows: Work until 3 stitches remain before marker thread and knit 2 together, knit 2 (marker thread is between these stitches), slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked.
BIND-OFF TIP:
To avoid a tight bind-off edge you may use a larger needle size. If this also is too tight, work a 1 yarn over after approx. every 4th stitch while binding off (bind off yarn overs as regular stitches).
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START THE PIECE HERE:
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SWEATER - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
Work yoke in the round on circular needle from mid back, top down. AT THE SAME TIME increase for raglan. Now divide yoke for body and sleeves. Body is worked in the round on circular needle, top down. Work sleeves in the round on double pointed needles/short circular needle, top down.
YOKE:
Cast on 90-94-98-102-106-110 stitches on circular needle size 4 mm = US 6 with Air. Knit 1 round. Work rib (= knit 1/purl 1) over all stitches for 3 cm = 1 1/8". Switch to circular size 5 mm = US 8 and insert 1 marker here, now measure piece from here.
Insert 4 marker threads in piece as follows (without working the stitches): Count 11-12-13-14-15-16 stitches (= half back piece), insert 1 marker thread in next stitch, count 21 stitches (= sleeve), insert 1 marker thread in next stitch, count 22-24-26-28-30-32 stitches (= front piece), insert 1 marker thread in next stitch, count 21 stitches (= sleeve), insert 1 marker thread in next stitch, 11-12-13-14-15-16 stitches remain on row after last marker thread (= half back piece).
Work in stockinette stitch over stitches on front piece and on back piece, and A.1 (= 21 stitches) over stitches on each sleeve, AT THE SAME TIME on first round start increase for RAGLAN in every transition between body and sleeves – read explanation above. Continue increases for raglan every other round. When A.1 has been worked 1 time vertically there are 122-126-130-134-138-142 stitches on round. Continue with A.2 (= 25 stitches) over stitches in A.1 with stockinette stitch over front piece and back piece, and continue with increase for raglan every other round until increase has been done 22-25-27-29-33-36 times in total on each side of the 4 stitches with marker threads = 274-302-322-342-378-406. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE!
After last increase in raglan work without increases until piece measures 20-23-25-27-31-34 cm = 8"-9"-9 3/4"-10 5/8"-12 1/4"-13 3/8" from marker.
Work next round as follows:
Work the first 34-38-41-44-49-53 stitches (= half back piece), slip the next
69-75-79-83-91-97 stitches on a stitch holder for sleeve, cast on 6-6-6-8-10-12 new stitches on needle (= in the side under sleeve), work the next 68-76-82-88-98-106 stitches (= front piece), slip the next 69-75-79-83-91-97 stitches on a stitch holder (= sleeve), cast on 6-6-6-8-10-12 new stitches on needle (= in the side under sleeve), work the remaining 34-38-41-44-49-53 stitches (= half back piece). NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE!
BODY:
= 148-164-176-192-216-236 stitches. Continue in stockinette stitch until piece measures 27-26-26-26-24-23 cm = 10 5/8"-10 1/4"-10 1/4"-10 1/4"-9 1/2"-9" from division. Switch to circular needle size 4 mm = US 6. Work rib (= purl 1/knit 1) over all stitches. Continue rib like this for 4 cm = 1 1/2". Loosely bind off with knit over knit and purl over purl, read BIND-OFF TIP. Sweater measures approx. 56-58-60-62-64-66 cm = 22"-22 3/4"-23 5/8"-24 3/8"-25 1/4"-26" from shoulder.
SLEEVE:
Slip the 69-75-79-83-91-97 stitches from stitch holder in one side of piece on a short circular needle/double pointed needles size 5 mm = US 8 and pick in addition up 1 stitch in each of the 6-6-6-8-10-12 stitches cast on in the side under sleeve = 75-81-85-91-101-109 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread in the middle of the 6-6-6-8-10-12 stitches under sleeve and move the marker thread upwards when working, it is used for decrease later. Begin round at the marker thread and continue with A.2 and stockinette stitch in the round. When piece measures 3 cm = 1 1/8" from division, decrease 2 stitches mid under sleeve - read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every 3½-3-2-1½-1-1 cm = 1 1/4"-1 1/8"-3/4"-1/2"-3/8"-3/8" 10-11-13-16-19-21 times in total = 55-59-59-59-63-67 stitches. Continue until piece measures 38-35-34-32-29-26 cm = 15"-13 3/4"-13 3/8"-12 1/2"-11 3/8"-10 1/4" from division - or desired length (shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of longer yoke). Work 1 round while decreasing 11 stitches evenly over stitches in A.2 = 44-48-48-48-52-56 stitches. Switch to double pointed needles size 4 mm = US 6 and work rib in the round = knit 1/purl 1 for 4 cm = 1 1/2". Bind off with knit over knit and purl over purl (to avoid a tight bind-off edge use double pointed needles size 4 mm = US 6). Work the other sleeve the same way.
Diagram
All measurements in charts are in cm.
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= knit |
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= purl |
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= between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over on needle, on next round knit yarn over twisted. It should not make a hole. |
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= between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over on needle, on next round knit yarn over. It should make a hole. |
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= KNIT 5 STITCHES TOGETHER AS FOLLOWS: Knit 5, pass them back on left needle, pass the next to last stitch over the last so that this stitch is around the last stitch, repeat until all 4 stitches have been passed over (= 4 stitches decreased), pass the last stitch worked back on right needle. |
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= KNIT 5 STITCHES TWISTED TOGETHER AS FOLLOWS: Knit 5, pass next to last stitch worked over the last so that this stitch is around the last stitch, repeat until all 4 stitches have been passed over (= 4 stitches decreased). |
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= slip 1 stitch on cable needle behind piece, knit 1, knit from cable needle |
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= slip 1 stitches on cable needle in front of piece, knit 1, knit 1 from cable needle |
Do you need help with this pattern?
Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 221-3) for measurements and calculations.
Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.
1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?
Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.
The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.
The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.
3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?
The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.
Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.
See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?
4) How do I use the yarn converter?
At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).
If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.
5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?
The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.
Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?
Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.
The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.
Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.
9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.
When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.
When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.
When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.
When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.
When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.
The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?
Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.
The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?
Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.
14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?
It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.
See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)
15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?
To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.
See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately
16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?
Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.
Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!
17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?
Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.
See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open
18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?
Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.
See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?
19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?
Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.
It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.
The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.
20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?
If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.
Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.
21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?
All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.
Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding
Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:
1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.
2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.
3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.
4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.
22) Where on the garment is the length measured?
The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.
See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing
23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?
The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.
Comments / Questions (91)
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Bronze Summer Sweater
Bronze Summer Sweater
Bronze Summer Sweater
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With over 30 years in knitting and crochet design, DROPS Design offers one of the most extensive collections of free patterns on the internet - translated to 17 languages. As of today we count 281 catalogs and 10507 patterns - 10503 of which are translated into English (US/in).
We work hard to bring you the best knitting and crochet have to offer, inspiration and advice as well as great quality yarns at incredible prices! Would you like to use our patterns for other than personal use? You can read what you are allowed to do in the Copyright text at the bottom of all our patterns. Happy crafting!
Jeg forstår ikke 3.række i A.1. efter de 8 omslag. Der står strik 5 masker drejet ret sammen men at jeg skal strikke 5 ret. Hvor bliver de drejet? Jeg får et stort hul når jeg har taget de 4 masker over. Det er det sidste omslag af de 8 der skaber hullet. Der må være noget jeg gør forkert?
24.05.2022 - 23:54DROPS Design answered:
Hej. I denna video visar vi hur man stickar 5 masker drejet sammen. Mvh DROPS Design
25.05.2022 kl. 07:07Jeg forstår ikke helt hvornår snoningspinden skal bruges… i diagrammet er det en figur som beskriver en snoning, men der findes ikke en sådan i A1 eller A2…
25.04.2022 - 21:19DROPS Design answered:
Hej Charlotte, jo snoningspinden skal bruges til den skrå streg som går over 2 masker, både den ene vej og den anden vej :)
26.04.2022 kl. 14:56DROPS Design: Modell ai-314 - Bronze summer sweater Er det korrekt, at når jeg efter de 3 cm rib i halsen har strikket mønster efter diagram A1 én gang, så er det KUN mønster efter A2 der skal strikkes/gentages langs hele ærmet? - Tænker at det ellers vil give udfordringer med de 4 omslag på første pind i A1. Det vil jo øge antal masker igen, hvis jeg både skal gentage A1 og A2. Glæder mig til svar, så jeg kan komme videre med denne smukke sweater. Mvh Marlene Søby Høj
11.03.2022 - 11:20DROPS Design answered:
Hei Marlene. Diagram A.1 strikkes bare 1 gang i høyden, mens diagram A.2 gjentas i høyden (til arbeidet måler 38-35-34-32-29-26 cm fra delingen). mvh DROPS Design
14.03.2022 kl. 13:33Har strikket første runde i A1. Runde to stemmer ikke i starten. Skal jo være to rett og to vrang,to vrang over de to rette fra første runde. Hva gjør jeg feil?
12.02.2022 - 11:18DROPS Design answered:
Hei Trine. Du økte med 4 masker på 1. omgang i A.1 og når du skal strikke 2. omgang og A.1 starter du med 2 rette (over 2 rette) og 2 vrange (over 2 vrange), slik at mønstret stemmer på plagget, men det ser ikke slik ut på diagrammet. De økte maskene er ikke tegnet inn som en blank firkant, men kun ovale sorte prikker. mvh DROPS Design
14.02.2022 kl. 13:21Hej Får inte ihop detta..efter 3cm resår, börjar på A1..1:a varvet okej men sen..men 13 m mellan de aviga och där ökar man ju 4 m, då är det inte 17 m som mönstret mellan de aviga utan 21? Va gör jag för fel?!
07.02.2022 - 21:54DROPS Design answered:
Hej Caroline, du ökar 4 m på førsta varvet i A.1 (på varje ärm) och de 4 nya maskorna finns med på varv 2 i diagrammet. Ut över det ökar du 8 maskor til raglan men det är på varje sida om A.1, och raglanmaskorna stickas i slätstickning. Lycka till :)
09.02.2022 kl. 13:11Jag fattar inte andra raden i A! Ska man öka 4 maskor i föregående varv blir det inte 17 maskor mellan de aviga. Hu är det tänkt där?
31.01.2022 - 16:55DROPS Design answered:
Hej Susanne. På varv 1 i A.1 har du 13 räta maskor mellan de aviga maskorna men du ökar 4 maskor i detta parti, vilket innebär att du på nästa varv har 17 räta maskor mellan de aviga. Mvh DROPS Design
01.02.2022 kl. 10:47Hej! Jag ska nu börja sticka FRAM och BAKSTYCKE, i storlek M, har 76 m per del och det blir 152 m, inte 164 m som det står i beskrivningen. Det diffar 12 maskor, vad är det som gäller? Tacksam för svar. Mvh Angelika
17.01.2022 - 09:13DROPS Design answered:
Hej Angelika. Du ska lägga upp 6 nya maskor under varje varje ärm, det är de 12 maskor du missar. 38+6+76+6+38=164 m. Mvh DROPS Design
17.01.2022 kl. 13:25ELSKER å strikke denne! Men, jeg synes den er mitt kort i lengde for min del. Hvor mye utvider den seg i vask/ved bruk? Kan man forvente qt den holder fasongen ved riktig strikkefasthet? Jeg er usikker på om jeg skal legge inn litt ekstra lengde eller om den kommer til å dra seg ut noe etter vask.
08.01.2022 - 07:57DROPS Design answered:
Hej Ingeborg, ja den holder faconen, du skal ikke regne med at den bliver længere, så hellere strikke den lidt længere fra starten, det er let når man strikker ovenfra og ned :)
13.01.2022 kl. 12:21Hejsa. Jeg er i gang med denne opskrift. Jeg forstår ikke maske antallet til diagrammet. For når jeg har taget ud til raglan ved de 4 mærke tråde på hver 2 omgange så passer det ikke med 25 masker som diagrammet viser. Også bliver jeg forvirret. Skal det ikke passe med 25 masker i ærmet ?
25.12.2021 - 10:23DROPS Design answered:
Hej Anne, jo men du tager ikke ud i diagrammet, de nye raglanmasker strikkes i glatstrik :)
03.01.2022 kl. 15:22After 3cm of yoke I made an increase and the 1st round of A1 I make another increase.? I have more sts in A1 than pattern.thank you
07.12.2021 - 16:18DROPS Design answered:
Dear Sophia, correct, on first row in A.1 you increase in the diagram (4 sts in each A.1) and you increase at the same time 8 sts for the raglan = you will increase 16 sts on this round. Then work A.1 as shown in the diagram and continue increasing for the raglan on every other round. Happy knitting!
08.12.2021 kl. 07:42