The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!
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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!
All measurements in charts are in cm.
Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.
These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:
Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?
Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.
The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.
The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?
The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.
Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?
The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.
Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.
See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?
What are the yarn groups?
All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.
How do I use the yarn converter?
At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).
If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.
Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?
Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.
It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.
The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.
What size should I knit?
If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.
You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart
Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?
The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.
Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
Why is the pattern worked top-down?
Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.
The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.
How do I work according to a knitting diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.
When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.
When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
How do I work according to a crochet diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.
When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.
When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.
When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.
The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?
Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.
The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?
The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.
Where on the garment is the length measured?
The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.
See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing
What is a repeat?
Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.
Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?
Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.
Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?
The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.
Why increase in the cast-off edge?
It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.
See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)
How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?
To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.
See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately
How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?
Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.
See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open
Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?
Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.
See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?
Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?
Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.
Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!
How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?
If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.
Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.
How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?
All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.
Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding
Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:
1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.
2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.
3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.
4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.
Why does my garment pill?
Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.
You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.
Snow Princess |
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Knitted DROPS jacket with raglan, hood and bamboo pattern, worked top down in ”Nepal”. Size: S - XXXL.
DROPS 156-1 |
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GARTER ST (back and forth on needle): K all rows. 1 ridge = K2 rows. GARTER ST (in the round on double pointed needles): * K 1 round and P 1 round *, repeat from *-*. 1 ridge = 2 rounds. BAMBOO PATTERN (back and forth on needle): Row 1 (= RS): * 1 YO, K 2, pass YO over 2 K sts *, repeat from *-*. Row 2 (= WS): P all sts. Repeat rows 1 and 2. BAMBOO PATTERN (in the round on double pointed needles): Round 1: * 1 YO, K 2, pass YO over 2 K sts *, repeat from *-*. Round 2: K all sts. Repeat rounds 1 and 2. DECREASE TIP: Dec 1 st before marker as follows: Work until 2 sts remain before marker, slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso. Dec 1 st after marker as follows: K 2 tog. RAGLAN: Inc as follows at every marker: Work until 1 st remains before marker, 1 YO, K 2, 1 YO = 2 sts inc. Repeat at the remaining markers in piece = 8 sts inc on needle. On next row work YOs twisted (i.e. work in back loop of st instead of front) to avoid holes. ---------------------------------------------------------- JACKET: Worked back and forth, top down on circular needle/double pointed needles. HOOD: Cast on 116 sts in all sizes (includes 2 edge sts in GARTER ST – see explanation above, in each side of piece) on circular needle size 5 mm / US 8 with Nepal. Work 1 ridge in garter st. Then work BAMBOO PATTERN back and forth – see explanation above, with 2 edge sts in garter st in each side (continue the 2 edge sts in garter st in each side until finished measurements). REMEMBER THE GAUGE! When piece measures 38 cm / 15'', work as follows from RS: Pattern as before over the first 30-32-36-40-44-48 sts, garter st over the next 56-52-44-36-28-20 sts AT THE SAME TIME dec 12-11-10-6-4-0 sts evenly, pattern over the remaining 30-32-36-40-44-48 sts = 104-105-106-110-112-116 sts. Continue back and forth until 3 ridges have been worked over the middle sts, AT THE SAME TIME on 2nd row from RS inc 4-8-14-19-25-32 sts evenly over sts in garter st, and on 3rd row from RS inc 4-7-13-18-25-31 sts evenly over sts in garter st = 112-120-133-147-162-179 sts. Now work an elevation in back of neck in garter st as follows from RS: Work until 30-32-36-40-44-48 sts remain, turn, work until 30-32-36-40-44-48 sts remain, turn, work until 40-42-46-50-55-58 sts remain, turn, work until 40-42-46-50-55-58 sts remain, turn, work until 50-52-56-60-65-68 sts remain, turn, work until 50-52-56-60-65-68 sts remain, turn, work until 55-57-61-65-70-73 sts remain, turn, work until 55-57-61-65-70-73 sts remain, turn and work the rest of row (pattern over the last 30-32-36-40-44-48 sts). YOKE: Now work pattern as before over the first 30-32-36-40-44-48 sts, 1 st in stockinette st, insert 1st marker here, stockinette st over the next 15 sts, insert 2nd marker here, stockinette st over the next 20-24-29-35-42-51 sts, insert 3rd marker here, stockinette st over the next 15 sts, insert 4th marker here, 1 st in stockinette st, pattern as before over the remaining 30-32-36-40-44-48 sts. Now start inc for RAGLAN – see explanation above! Repeat inc every row 1-1-4-6-8-10 times (i.e. from RS and WS), and every row from RS 21-22-20-19-18-17 times = 288-304-325-347-370-395 sts. NOTE: Work the new inc sts on back piece and sleeves in stockinette st, and work the first 8 new inc sts on front piece in bamboo pattern (i.e. inc 2 sts before there is enough sts to work bamboo pattern), then work the remaining inc sts in stockinette st. Piece now measures 20-21-22-23-24-25 cm / 8''-8¼''-8¾''-9''-9½''-9¾'' (measure from 1st row after edge in garter st at the back). Now work next row as follows: Work the first 52-55-60-65-70-75 sts, slip the next 61-63-65-67-69-71 sts on a stitch holder for sleeve, cast on 10 new sts under sleeve (insert a marker in the middle of the new sts), work the next 62-68-75-83-92-103 sts, slip the next 61-63-65-67-69-71 sts on a stitch holder for sleeve, cast on 10 new sts under sleeve (insert a marker in the middle of the new sts), work the remaining 52-55-60-65-70-75 sts. There are now 186-198-215-233-252-273 sts for body. NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE! BODY: Continue back and forth with pattern as before. Work the new sts under sleeve in stockinette st. When piece measures 4 cm / 1½'' from marker under sleeves, inc 1 st on each side of each marker as follows: Work until 1 st before first marker, 1 YO, 2 sts in stockinette st, 1 YO, repeat at the other marker = 190-202-219-237-256-277 sts. Repeat inc every 3½-3½-3½-4-4½-6 cm / 1 1/4"-1 1/4"-1 1/4"-1½"-1 3/4"-2½" 11-12-12-12-11-8 more times = 234-250-267-285-300-309 sts. When piece measures 46-48-50-52-54-55 cm / 18"-19"-19 3/4"-20½"-21 1/4"-21½" from marker under sleeves, work 3 ridges. Loosely bind off. SLEEVE: Worked in the round on double pointed needles. Slip sts from stitch holder back on double pointed needles size 5 mm / US 8. Work 1 row from RS and cast on 10 new sts under sleeve (insert a marker in the middle of the new sts) = 71-73-75-77-79-81 sts. NOW MEASURE THE PIECE FROM HERE. When piece measures 4 cm / 1½'', beg dec on each side of marker - READ DECREASE TIP. Repeat dec every 2-2-2-1½-1½-1½ cm/3/4"-3/4"-3/4"-½"-½"-½" 12-13-13-14-14-15 more times = 45-45-47-47-49-49 sts. When piece measures 32-32-32-32-31-31 cm / 12½"-12½"-12½"-12½"-12 1/4"-12 1/4", inc 3 sts evenly in all sizes = 48-48-50-50-52-52 sts. Now work BAMBOO PATTERN in the round on double pointed needles - see explanation above. When piece measures 47-47-47-47-48-48 cm / 18½"-18½"-18½"-18½"-19"-19", dec 4 sts in all sizes = 44-44-46-46-48-48 sts. Work 3 ridges in GARTER ST in the round on double pointed needles - see explanation above. Bind off. ASSEMBLY: Sew the holes under the sleeves. Sew tog hood st by st in cast-on edge. Sew on buttons on section with bamboo pattern on left front piece as follows: Sew 1 button approx. 2 cm / 3/4'' in from edge and 43-45-47-49-51-53 cm / 17"-17 3/4"-18½"-19 1/4"-20"-21" from bind-off edge and 1 button 47-49-51-53-55-57 cm / 18½''-19¼''-20''-21''-21 5/8''-22½'' from bind-off edge. Repeat in the other side of section with bamboo pattern. Button through a hole in bamboo texture. |
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Have you made this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them! Do you need help with this pattern?You'll find tutorial videos, a Comments/Questions area and more by visiting the pattern on garnstudio.com. © 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S. We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights. Read more about what you can do with our patterns at the bottom of each pattern on our site. |
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Comments / Questions (185)
Merilyn wrote:
Tere! Palun abi passe kudumise juures. Nimelt jääb segaseks see koht, kus on öeldud, et Koo uued kasvatatud silmused seljaosal ja varrukatel parempidises koes ning esimesed 8 uut silmust hõlmadel bambuse mustriga (st. kasvata 2 s, enne kui on võimalik kududa mustrit), siis koo ülejäänud silmused parempidises koes. Kuidas tuleb siis silmusemärkija juures need 2 silma kasvatada, et kududa bambuse mustrit, kui samas peab tegema ka raglaani kasvatused?
23.05.2018 - 15:45DROPS Design answered:
Tere Marilyn! Silmused mis ei lähe mustrisse, koo parempidises koes. Head kudumist!
30.06.2018 - 16:57Sabine Meyer wrote:
Ich sricke die grösse S es sind keine 11 maschen sondern 12 bambusmuster sind 30 maschen am anfang
14.02.2018 - 09:58DROPS Design answered:
Liebe Frau Meyer, in der 1. Größe stricken Sie die ersten 30 M im Bambusmuster wie zuvor, dann nehmen Sie 12 Maschen gleichmäßig verteilt über die nächsten 56 M (= 56-12= 44 M bleiben) und die letzten 30 M im Bambusmuster wie zuvor stricken = 30 + 44 + 30 = 104 M. Viel Spaß beim stricken!
14.02.2018 - 11:30Sabine Meyer wrote:
Wo müssen die 30 Maschen übrig sein am Anfang oder am Ende vor dem Bambus Muster Habe alle Abnahmen und zum Schluss die Zunahmen es sind 52 Maschen in der Mitte
13.02.2018 - 22:49DROPS Design answered:
Liebe Frau Meyer, Sie stricken die ersten 32 M im Bambusmuster, dann nehmen Sie 11 M über die nächsten 52 M ab (= es bleiben nur noch 41 M) und stricken die letzten 30 M im Bambusmuster = 32+41+32=105 M in der 2. Größe. Viel Spaß beim stricken!
14.02.2018 - 08:56Hanne wrote:
Hallo, Voor het meerderen voor de raglan staat dat je het meerderen in elke naald één keer herhaald en elke naald aan de goede kant 21 keer (voor maat S). Nu vraag ik me af of je na de laatste keer meerderen aan de goede kant nog een keer moet terug breien aan de verkeerde kant zodat je de gemeerderde steken omgekeerd kunt breien. Of brei je meteen de naald (aan de verkeerde kant dan) waarin je na 52 steken de eerste 61 op een hulpdraad zet? Alvast bedankt voor het antwoord.
07.02.2018 - 21:24DROPS Design answered:
Hoi Hanne, Je hoeft niet perse een naald terug te breien want deze steken kom je later wel tegen als je het lijf of de mouwen breit, en dan kun je ze als nog gedraaid breien. Het hangt er denk ik vanaf of je al op de juiste afmetingen bent om het werk te verdelen in lijf en mouwen en of je het zelf prettig vind om nog een naald aan de verkeerde kant te breien.
16.02.2018 - 11:52Anna wrote:
Hi I'm wondering if it is absolutely necessary to use double pointed needles for this pattern. I know the pattern says it does but could it be worked with single pointed needles and circular needles or not? Thanks.
16.01.2018 - 04:29DROPS Design answered:
Dear Anna, you will find here relevant informations about adapting a pattern to straight needles. Happy knitting!
16.01.2018 - 09:20Mette wrote:
Hej jeg er i gang med at strikke den skønhed i str. xl og er i gang men raglan. jeg er blevet i tvivl om jeg skal strikke mønster mens jeg strikker rangler eller om det først skal gøres efter de 23 cm?
30.09.2017 - 12:20DROPS Design answered:
Hej Mette, ja den er bare så flot. Jo du skal fortsætte med mønsteret så langt du kan. God fornøjelse!
03.10.2017 - 11:52Lucka L. wrote:
Hello, I would like to ask how many (approximately) skeins of that yarn were used and I'd like to know which difficulty this pattern has. Thank you for your answer :)
04.08.2017 - 20:30DROPS Design answered:
Dear Lucka, the pattern uses 22-24-27-29-32-35 balls of DROPS Nepal yarn. As for difficulty, some experience with shaping (increases and decreases) are useful, so I would say, while it is not very complicated peace, it is somehwat above the beginner, maybe advanced beginner level. I hope this helps. Happy Knitting!
06.08.2017 - 10:10Bettina Sørvin wrote:
Hej ! Jeg er nået til udtagningerne på ryg/forstykker. De efterlader huller hele vejen ned. Er det meningen ? Jeg tænker at enten skal jeg lave udtagningerne anderledes, eller også skal jeg gøre et eller andet på vrangpinden......! Den bliver ellers god :-)
06.05.2017 - 13:35DROPS Design answered:
Hej, Hvis du ikke vil have hul i udtagningerne, så strikker du dem drejet (altså i bagerste lænke af masken) på næste pind. God fornøjelse!
08.05.2017 - 15:29Kickie Sävenskog wrote:
Easy to knit, fits perfect and so comfy. I love it and will knit more!
11.12.2016 - 21:34Eva wrote:
Hallo, ich stecke im Moment beim Passe fest. Verstehe ich die Anleitung richtig, dass nach der Hin-R mit dem Abstecken der Markierer quasi wie folgt zugenommen wird: 1. R (Rück-R)+0M, 2. R (Hin-R) +8M, 3. R (Rück-R.) +0M, 4. R (Hin-R) +8M, 5. R (Rück-R) +0M, dann genauso weiter, jede Hin-R +8M und jede Rück-R +0 etc pp? Sodass am Ende in der Größe M 45 Reihen entstehen müssten? Danke im Voraus!!
06.10.2016 - 15:11DROPS Design answered:
Liebe Eva, Die erste Zunahme ist jede R. gemacht, so an der nächsten R. nach der mit Markierer, nehmen Sie 8 Maschen zu; dann jede 2. R (= jede R. von der Vorderseite) nehmen Sie 8 M 22 x zu = 184 Zunhamen = 304 M.
06.10.2016 - 15:31