DROPS Alaska
DROPS Alaska
100% Wool
from 2.60 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 18.20$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

Winter Wisps Set

Knitted head band, neck warmer and mittens in DROPS Alaska. Piece is worked with cables and increase for saddle shoulders.

DROPS 214-49
DROPS design: Pattern x-450
Yarn group C or A + A
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FOR THE ENTIRE SET:

SIZE:
S/M - L/XL

MATERIALS:
DROPS ALASKA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
350-400 g color 03, light grey

HEAD BAND:

SIZE:
One-size
Head circumference: 54/56 cm = 21 1/4"/22" - or desired length.

MATERIALS:
DROPS ALASKA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
100 g color 03, light grey

KNITTING GAUGE:
18 stitches in width and 23 rows vertically in stockinette stitch = 10 x 10 cm = 4” x 4”.

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4.5 mm = US 7: Length 40 cm = 16” for stockinette stitch.
DROPS CABLE NEEDLE: for cables.
Needle size is only a suggestion! If you have too many stitches on 10 cm = 4" switch to a larger needle size. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm = 4” switch to a smaller needle size.

NECK WARMER:

SIZE:
S/M - L/XL
Measurements:
Length: approx. 32-34 cm = 12 1/2"-13 3/8" measured after rib in the neck.
Shoulder width: approx. 34 - 39 cm = 13 3/8"-15 1/4"

MATERIALS:
DROPS ALASKA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
200-200 g color 03, light grey

KNITTING GAUGE:
18 stitches in width and 23 rows vertically in stockinette stitch = 10 x 10 cm = 4” x 4”.

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 5.5 mm = US 9: Length 60 cm = 24” for stockinette stitch.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4.5 mm = US 7: Length 40 cm = 16” for rib.
Needle size is only a suggestion! If you have too many stitches on 10 cm = 4” switch to a larger needle size. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm = 4” switch to a smaller needle size.

MITTENS:

SIZE:
S/M - L/XL

MATERIALS:
DROPS ALASKA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
100-100 g color 03, light grey

KNITTING GAUGE:
19 stitches in width and 25 rows vertically in stockinette stitch = 10 x 10 cm = 4” x 4”.

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 4 mm = US 6
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3.5 mm = US 4
DROPS CABLE NEEDLE: for cables.
Needle size is only a suggestion! If you have too many stitches on 10 cm = 4" switch to a larger needle size. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm = 4” switch to a smaller needle size.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Alaska
DROPS Alaska
100% Wool
from 2.60 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 18.20$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
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EXPLANATION FOR THE PATTERN:

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GARTER STITCH (back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge vertically = knit 2 rows.

PATTERN:
Head band: See diagram A.1.
Neck warmer: See diagram A.2.
Mittens: See diagrams A.3, A.4 and A.5.
Diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from the right side.

INCREASE TIP-1 (applies to neck warmer):
BEFORE MARKER:
The new stitch will be twisted, leaning towards the right.
Use left needle to pick up strand between 2 stitches from the round below, pick up strand from behind and knit stitch in front loop.
AFTER MARKER:
The new stitch will be twisted, leaning towards the left.
Use left needle to pick up strand between 2 stitches from the round below, pick up strand from the front and knit stitch in back loop.

INCREASE TIP-2 (evenly):
To calculate how to increase evenly, use the total number of stitches on row (e.g. 54 stitches), and minus stitches in garter stitch in each side (e.g. 4 stitches) and divide stitches by number of increases to be done (e.g. 12) = 4.1. In this example increase by making 1 yarn over after approx. every 4th stitch. On next row work yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.

INCREASE TIP-3 (applies to mittens):
Increase 1 stitch by making 1 yarn over. On next round knit yarn over twisted to avoid holes.

DECREASE TIP:
Decrease in stockinette stitch section on the under side of mitten as follows:
Decrease as follows after marker: Slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over (= 1 stitch decreased), work until 2 stitches remain before next marker, knit 2 together (= 1 stitch decreased).

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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HEAD BAND - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
Work piece back and forth on circular needle and sew together when finished.

HEAD BAND:
Cast on 31 stitches on circular needle size 4.5 mm = US 7 with Alaska. Purl 1 row from wrong side. Then work pattern from right side as follows: 2 edge stitches in GARTER STITCH - see explanation above, A.1 over the next 27 stitches, 2 edge stitches in garter stitch. Continue back and forth like this. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE! Continue like this until piece measures 49 cm = 19 1/4", or desired length - adjust to finish after or 4th or 10th row in A.1. Bind off. Sew together head band inside cast-on and bind-off edge.

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NECK WARMER - SHORT SUMMARY OF PIECE:
Worked top down. First work in the round until increase for shoulder is done. Then finish front piece and back piece separately.

NECK WARMER:
Cast on 76-84 stitches on a short circular needle size 4.5 mm = US 7 with Alaska. Knit 1 round. Then work rib as follows: (Knit 2/purl 2) over the first 12-16 stitches, insert 1st marker here, work A.2 over the next 12 stitches (= shoulder stitches), insert 2nd marker here, purl 2, (knit 2/purl 2) over the next 24-28 stitches, insert 3rd marker here, work A.2 over the next 12 stitches (= shoulder stitches), insert 4th marker here, purl 2, (knit 2/purl 2) over the last 12-12 stitches. Continue in the round like this for 8 cm = 3 1/8". Switch to circular needle size 5.5 mm = US 9. Insert a marker at beginning of round. Now measure piece from here. Now work pattern as follows:

SADDLE SHOULDER INCREASE:
Continue with A.2 over shoulder stitches in each side and work in stockinette stitch over the remaining stitches on round, at the same time on first round increase 4 stitches: Increase BEFORE 1st and 3rd marker, and AFTER 2nd and 4th marker- read INCREASE TIP-1. There are only increases on back piece and front piece and number of shoulder stitches remains the same. Increase like this on every round 14-16 times in total = 132-148 stitches. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE!

Work next round as follows: Knit until shoulder stitches, bind off with knit over knit and purl over purl over the 12 shoulder stitches, knit over the next 54-62 stitches before slipping them on a stitch holder for front piece, bind off the next 12 shoulder stitches, knit over all the 54-62 stitches on back piece.

BACK PIECE:
Work in stockinette stitch back and forth with 2 edge stitches in GARTER STITCH - read explanation above, in each side. When neck warmer measures 27-29 cm = 10 5/8"-11 3/8" from marker inserted after the neck, increase 12-16 stitches evenly - read INCREASE TIP-2 = 66-78 stitches.
Switch to circular needle size 4.5 mm = US 7. Now work rib from right side as follows: 2 stitches in garter stitch, (knit 2/purl 2) until 4 stitches remain, knit 2, 2 stitches in garter stitch. Continue rib like this for 5 cm = 2". Bind off with knit over knit and purl over purl (bind off stitches in garter stitch by knitting).
Neck warmer measures approx. 32-34 cm = 12 1/2"-13 3/8" from marker.

FRONT PIECE:
Slip stitches from stitch holder back on circular needle 5.5 = US 9 and work as back piece.

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MITTENS - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
Worked in the round on double pointed needles.

LEFT MITTEN:
Cast on 40-44 stitches on double pointed needles size 3.5 mm = US 4 with Alaska. Knit 1 round. Work rib (knit 2/purl 2) in the round for 4 cm = 1 1/2". Work next round as follows: Knit 0-3 stitches. Insert a marker here. This is beginning of round. Work next round as follows: Knit 2-3, work A.3 over the next 18 stitches (= 1 stitch increased), knit 2-3, knit 2 together (= 1 stitch decreased), knit the last 16-18 stitches = 40-44 stitches. Work 1 round with knit over knit and A.3 over A.3. Work 1 more round the same way.
Switch to double pointed needles size 4 mm = US 6. Then work pattern as follows: Knit 2-3, A.4 over A.3, knit the next 19-22 stitches on round. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE!
When piece measures 8-8 cm = 3 1/8"-3 1/8", increase 1 stitch on each side of last stitch on round for thumb (= 2 stitches increased) - read INCREASE TIP-3. Increase like this on outside of the increased stitches every other round 5-6 times in total = 50-56 stitches. Now slip the 11-13 thumb stitches on 1 stitch holder.
Work pattern in the round as before in the round on mitten and cast on 1 new stitch behind thumb on next round = 40-44 stitches. Continue like this until A.4 has been worked 4 times vertically. Mitten now measures approx. 23 cm = 9" from cast-on edge. Insert 1 marker at beginning of round and 1 marker after 23-25 stitches (= 23-25 stitches on top of mitten and 17-19 stitches on the under side of mitten). Now work A.5 over A.4, AT THE SAME TIME on next round decrease on the under side of mitten - read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every other round 5 and every round 2 times. When diagram has been worked vertically, there are 12-16 stitches on round. Work 1 round where all stitches are knitted together 2 by 2 = 6-8 stitches. Cut the yarn and pull it through the remaining stitches, tighten together and fasten.

THUMB:
Slip the 11-13 thumb stitches back on double pointed needles size 4 mm = US 6. Pick in addition up 4 stitches behind thumb = 15-17 stitches. Work in stockinette stitch until the thumb itself measures approx. 5-5½ cm = 2"-2 1/8” (try on the mitten, approx. ½ cm = 1/8” remains until finished measurements). Knit 2 rounds AT THE SAME TIME knit all stitches together 2 by 2 on both rounds. Cut the yarn and pull it through the remaining stitches, tighten together and fasten.

RIGHT MITTEN:
Cast on and work as left mitten but increase for thumb on each side of the 24th-26th stitch (= 3rd-4th stitch with stockinette stitch after A.4).

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 15.10.2020
Correction: LEFT MITTEN: ... knit the last 16-18 stitches = 40-44 stitches. Work 1 round with knit over knit and A.3 over A.3...

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = knit from the right side, purl from the wrong side
symbols = purl from the right side, knit from the wrong side
symbols = this square is not a stitch, go directly to next symbol in diagram
symbols = between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over, on next row purl yarn over (to make holes)
symbols = knit 3, pass first stitch worked over the other 2 so that this stitch is around the last two stitches worked (= 1 stitch decreased)
symbols = slip 5 stitches on cable needle behind piece, knit 5, knit 5 from cable needle
symbols = slip 5 stitches on cable needle in front of piece, knit 5, knit 5 from cable needle
symbols = slip 4 stitches on cable needle behind piece, knit 4, knit 4 from cable needle
symbols = slip 3 stitches on cable needle in front of piece, knit 3, knit 3 from cable needle
symbols = purl 1 and make 1 yarn over. On next round knit yarn over twisted to avoid holes.
symbols = purl 2 together (= 1 stitch decreased)
symbols = knit 2 together (= 1 stitch decreased)
symbols = slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over (= 1 stitch decreased)
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (30)

country flag Anette Wingefors wrote:

Hej. Jag funderar på detta mönster och vill använda befintligt garn som jag har hemma och där man ska använda stickor 6 mm. Kan jag göra och hurr mycket garn kommr det att gå åt?

15.01.2024 - 18:04

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Anette, det kan vi ikke svare på. Vi bruger DROPS Alaska hvor der er 70 m / 50 gram - så kan du prøve at regne det ud med det du har...

16.01.2024 - 14:32

country flag Eva wrote:

På oppskriften på hals hadde det vært fint om "strikk 2 vrang, (2 rett / 2 vrang) over de neste 24-28 maskene" ble endret til " strikk 2 vrang, deretter (2 rett / 2 vrang) over de neste 24-28 maskene" og tilsvarende på den neste med samme tilfelle.

04.01.2024 - 20:59

country flag Susanne Persson wrote:

Stickar vanten och har stickat klart på höjden. Det står att jag ska minska på undersidan vartannat varv fem gånger och varje varv två gånger men det stämmer inte med diagrammet. Det står att minska efter markören det är innan aviga maskor… ???

12.12.2023 - 20:58

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Susanne, du skal både tage ind ifølge diagrammet og indenfor mærkerne, i de glatstrikkede masker indeni hånden :)

13.12.2023 - 14:50

country flag Sharon Hunt wrote:

Hi I see there are a few knitters having the same problem am having with the neckwarmer am making the large size. Is the pattern worked back and forth the joined an work in the round? At last sett of instruction says to: A.2 over the next 12 stitches (= shoulder stitches), insert 4th marker here, purl 2, (knit 2/purl 2) over the last 12-12 stitches. But I only have 12 sts to work sit here. How do I correct this? S

25.06.2023 - 11:16

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Sharon, when starting the neck warmer, you have 84 stitches. Work rib over the first 16 stitches, insert marker between the stitches, A.2 over 12 stitches , insert marker between the stitches, purl 2 , work rib over 28 stitches, insert marker between the stitches, work A.2 over the next 12 stitches, insert marker between the stitches, purl 2, work rib over the last 12 stitches. 16+12+2+28+12+2+12 = 84 stitches. Happy knitting!

25.06.2023 - 14:29

country flag Marianne wrote:

Försöker mig på halsvärmaren men får avslut på två räta efter2 a markören stickat 24 m och efter 3 e markör börjar det m räta. Blir ju fyra räta efter varandra på den sidan då.. Blir inte lika på andra.. får inte maskorna att stämma.

25.11.2022 - 00:31

country flag Helga Eitel wrote:

Hallo, bei dem Schalkragen ist das Diagramm A.2 angegeben wonach ich Zopfmuster stricken müsste. In der Abbildung ist das aber nicht zu sehen. Ich möchte aber ohne Zopfmuster stricken.

18.04.2022 - 09:00

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Eitel, A.2 finden Sie unter A.1 (Zopf für den Stirnband); dh A.2 wird Rippenmuster: 2 M re, 3 M li, 2 M re, 3 M li, 2 M re (= 12 Maschen). Viel Spaß beim stricken!

19.04.2022 - 11:24

country flag Silje Kvamsdal Guddal wrote:

Hei. Lurer på om det finnes ein genser-oppskrift i samme stil som i denne halsen..?synes ribb mønsteret var så kult når den gjekk nedover..og trur det hadde gjort seg på ein genser..

12.02.2022 - 11:28

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Silje. Ta en titt på oppskrift 217-23, eller så søk på sadelskulder oppskrifter. Kanskje du finner noe som faller i smak. mvh DROPS Design

14.02.2022 - 13:30

country flag Jane wrote:

Hello, I am knitting the neck warmer, S/M size. I cast on 76 stitches, but when I add up the stitches for the first round of the rib, it only comes to 72 stitches. What am I supposed to do with the extra 4 stitches? Thank you.

24.01.2022 - 11:39

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Jane, work the 76 stitches as follows: Knit 2/Purl 2 over the first 12 sts, marker, A.2 (= 12 sts), marker, P2, K2/P2 over the next 24 sts, marker, A.2 (= 12 sts), marker, P2, K2/P2 over the last 12 sts, you should have: 12+12+2+24+12+2+12= 76 sts. Maybe you forgot the P2 after A.2 and before rib K2/P2? Hope it will help, happy knitting!

24.01.2022 - 15:44

country flag Jessica wrote:

Finns det en annan beskrivning, jag förstår inte diagrammet och inte beskrivningen heller.

21.01.2022 - 18:16

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Jessica. Se svar under. Mvh DROPS Design

24.01.2022 - 07:51

country flag Jessica wrote:

Jag förstår inte diagrammet och beskrivningen för pannbandet alls. Finns det en skriven beskrivning som förklarar det, tyvärr blir jag inte klokare av de videos som finns heller.

21.01.2022 - 18:04

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Jessica. Nej vi har dessvärre ingen annan beskrivning än denna. Du börjar längst ner från höger på diagrammet och läser/stickar mot vänster. På nästa varv stickar du från vänster till höger på diagrammet. Är det något speciellt som blir fel så kanske vi kan hjälpa dig? Mvh DROPS Design

24.01.2022 - 07:51