Herringbone Hill Jacket by DROPS Design
Knitted jacket in DROPS Sky and DROPS Kid-Silk. The piece is worked top down, with raglan, cables and Fisherman’s rib stitches. Sizes S - XXXL.
Yarn group B + A
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SIZES:
S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Finished measurements:
Chest measurements: 98-106-114-122-138-146 cm = 38 1/2”-41 3/4”-45”-48”-54 1/4”-57 3/8”
Full length: 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm = 21 1/4"-22"-22 3/4"-23 5/8"-24 3/8"-25 1/4"
All measurements in charts are in cm.
MATERIALS:
DROPS SKY from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
200-250-250-300-300-350 g color 01, white
and use:
DROPS KID-SILK from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
100-125-125-125-150-150 g color 20, light beige
KNITTING GAUGE:
15 stitches in width and 17 rows in height with stockinette stitch and 1 strand of each quality = 10 x 10 cm = 4” x 4”.
NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 5.5 MM = US 9.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 5.5 MM = US 9: Length 40 cm = 16” and 60 cm = 24” or 80 cm = 32” for stockinette stitch.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 4 MM = US 6.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4 MM = US 6: Length 80 cm = 32” for rib.
DROPS CABLE NEEDLE – for cables.
Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a smaller needle size.
DROPS MOTHER OF PEARL BUTTONS, Arched (white) NO 522: 5-5-5-6-6-6 items.
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Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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DROPS Sky 74% Alpaca, 18% Polyamide, 8% Wool |
from 5.90 $ /50g | Order | ||||||||
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DROPS Kid-Silk 75% Mohair, 25% Silk |
from 5.80 $ /25g | Order | ||||||||
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DROPS Needles & Hooks | ||||||||||
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NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:
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RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge in height = Knit 2 rows.
PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.3. The diagrams show all rows in the pattern from the right side.
INCREASE TIP (evenly spaced):
To work out how to increase evenly, count the total number of stitches on the needle (e.g. 84 stitches) minus bands (e.g. 8 stitches) and divide the remaining stitches by the number of increases to be made (e.g. 27) = 2.8.
In this example, increase by making 1 yarn over after alternately each 2nd and 3rd stitch. Do not increase on bands. On the next row work the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.
RAGLAN:
All increases are worked from the right side!
Increase 1 stitch on each side of the raglan-stitch, by making 1 yarn over (8 stitches increased on each increase-row). On the next row (wrong side) purl the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. Then work the new stitches in stockinette stitch.
DECREASE TIP (for sleeves):
Decrease 1 stitch on either side of the marker thread as follows: Work until there are 3 stitches left before the marker thread, knit 2 together, knit 2 (marker thread sits between these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch.
BINDING-OFF TIP:
To avoid the bind-off edge being tight you can bind off with a larger size needle. If the edge is still tight, make 1 yarn over after approx. each 4th stitch at the same time as binding off; the yarn overs are bind off as normal stitches.
BUTTONHOLES:
Work buttonholes on right band (when garment is worn). Work from the right side when there are 3 stitches left on row as follows: Make 1 yarn over, knit 2 together and knit the last stitch. On the next row (wrong side) knit the yarn over to leave a hole.
The first buttonhole is worked 1 cm = 3/8” below the neck. The other 4-4-4-5-5-5 buttonholes are worked with 8-9 cm = 3 1/8”-3 1/2” between each one.
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START THE PIECE HERE:
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JACKET – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The neck and yoke are worked back and forth with circular needle from mid front and top down. The yoke is divided for body and sleeves and the body continued back and forth. The sleeves are worked in the round with short circular needle/double pointed needles, top down.
NECK:
Cast on 87-90-93-99-102-105 stitches (including 1 edge stitch on each side towards mid front) with circular needle size 4 mm = US 6 and 1 strand Sky and 1 strand Kid-Silk (= 2 strands). Purl 1 row (= wrong side). The next row is worked as follows from the right side: 1 edge stitch in GARTER STITCH – read description above, * knit 1, purl 2 *, work from *-* until there are 2 stitches left on the row, knit 1 and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Continue this rib for 10 cm = 4” (double neck).
YOKE:
When the rib is finished, change to circular needle size 5.5 mm = US 9 and work the next row as follows from the right side: Knit 1, knit the next 6 stitches together 2 and 2 (3 stitches decreased = 4 stitches for the band), knit 73-76-79-85-88-91 and increase 26-27-28-26-27-28 stitches evenly over these stitches – read INCREASE TIP, knit the next 6 stitches together 2 and 2, knit 1 (3 stitches decreased = 4 stitches for the band) = 107-111-115-119-123-127 stitches. Insert 1 marker after the band at the beginning of the row; the yoke is measured from this marker! Purl 1 row from the wrong side (yarn overs purled twisted and the bands worked in garter stitch).
Now work pattern as follows:
4 band stitches in garter stitch, A.1 over the next 16 stitches, knit 2-3-4-5-6-7 (= left front piece), 1 yarn over, knit 1 (= raglan-stitch), 1 yarn over, knit 12 (= sleeve), 1 yarn over, knit 1 (= raglan-stitch), 1 yarn over, knit 2-3-4-5-6-7, A.2 over the next 31 stitches, knit 2-3-4-5-6-7 (= back piece), 1 yarn over, knit 1 (= raglan-stitch), 1 yarn over, knit 12 (= sleeve), 1 yarn over, knit 1 (= raglan-stitch), 1 yarn over, knit 2-3-4-5-6-7, A.3 over the next 16 stitches, 4 band stitches in garter stitch (= right front piece). AT THE SAME TIME work BUTTONHOLE on the right band – read description above.
You have now increased 1 stitch to RAGLAN on each side of all the raglan-stitches in the transitions between the body and sleeves ¬– read description above. Continue this pattern back and forth and increase to raglan every 2nd row a total of 18-20-22-23-27-29 times = 251-271-291-303-339-359 stitches. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE!
Continue with the pattern without further increases to raglan until the yoke measures 21-24-26-28-31-35 cm = 8 1/4”-9 1/2”-10 1/4”-11”-12 1/4”-13 3/4” from the marker. Now divide the yoke for the body and sleeves on the next row from the wrong side as follows:
Work the first 41-44-47-49-54-57 stitches (= right front piece), place the next 48-52-56-58-66-70 stitches on a thread for the sleeve, cast on 6-6-6-8-8-10 new stitches on the needle (= in side under the sleeve), work the next 73-79-85-89-99-105 stitches (= back piece), place the next 48-52-56-58-66-70 stitches on a thread for the sleeve, cast on 6-6-6-8-8-10 new stitches on the needle (= in side under the sleeve), work the last 41-44-47-49-54-57 stitches (= left front piece).
Body and sleeves are finished separately. THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE.
BODY:
= 167-179-191-203-223-239 stitches. Continue back and forth with 4 band stitches in garter stitch on each side, patterns A.1, A.2 and A.3 as before and stockinette stitch over the other stitches. Continue working until the piece measures 19-18-18-18-17-15 cm = 7 1/2”-7”-7”-7”-6 3/4”-6” from the division – adjust so you finish on row 5 in A.1, A.2 and A.3. Change to circular needle size 4 mm = US 6.
Now work as follows from the wrong side: 4 band stitches in garter stitch, A.3b over the next 16 stitches (2 stitches increased = 18 stitches), purl 48-54-60-66-76-84 and increase 10-10-13-13-15-16 stitches evenly over these stitches (= 58-64-73-79-91-100 stitches), A.2b over the next 31 stitches (4 stitches increased = 35 stitches), purl 48-54-60-66-76-84 stitches and increase 10-10-13-13-15-16 stitches evenly over these stitches (= 58-64-73-79-91-100 stitches), A.1b over the next 16 stitches (2 stitches increased = 18 stitches), 4 band stitches in garter stitch. There are 195-207-225-237-261-279 stitches on the needle. Now work rib (knit 1, purl 2) inside the 4 band stitches in garter stitch on each side and continue with A.1b over A.1, A.2b over A.2 and A.3b over A.3 – first row from the right side. NOTE! There should now be knit 1, purl 2 over all stitches between the bands. When the rib measures 10 cm = 4”, bind off with knit over knit and purl over purl – read BINDING-OFF TIP. The jacket measures approx. 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm = 21 1/4"-22"-22 3/4"-23 5/8"-24 3/8"-25 1/4" from the shoulder down.
SLEEVE:
Place the 48-52-56-58-66-70 stitches from the thread on the one side of the piece on double pointed needles/short circular needle size 5.5 mm = US 9 and knit up 1 stitch in each of the new stitches under the sleeve = 54-58-62-66-74-80 stitches. Insert a marker thread in the middle of the new stitches (= 3-3-3-4-4-5 new stitches on each side of the thread). Work stockinette stitch in the round.
When the sleeve measures 4 cm = 1 1/2” from the division, decrease 2 stitches under the sleeve ¬– read DECREASE TIP-1. Decrease like this every 3½-3-2½-2-1½-1 cm = 1 1/4”-1 1/8”-7/8”-3/4”-1/2”-3/8” a total of 9-10-11-12-15-17 times = 36-38-40-42-44-46 stitches. When the sleeve measures 34-32-30-29-26-23 cm = 13 3/8”-12 1/2”-11 3/4”-11 3/8”-10 1/4”-9” (shorter measurements in larger sizes due to wider neck and longer yoke) knit 1 round where you increase 9-7-8-9-7-8 stitches = 45-45-48-51-51-54 stitches. Change to double pointed needles size 4 mm = US 6 and work rib (= knit 1, purl 2) for 6 cm = 2 3/8”. Bind off with knit over knit and purl over purl. The sleeve measures approx. 40-38-36-35-32-29 cm = 15 3/4”-15”-14 1/4”-13 3/4”-12 1/2”-11 3/8” from the division. Work the other sleeve in the same way.
ASSEMBLY:
Fold the neck to the inside and sew down. To avoid the neck being tight and rolling outwards, it is important the seam is elastic.
Sew the buttons onto the left band.
Diagram
All measurements in charts are in cm.
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= knit from right side, purl from wrong side |
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= purl from right side, knit from wrong side |
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= insert the right needle through the stitch from the previous row, knit 1 and slip the stitch from the needle (= Fisherman’s rib stitch) |
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= place 4 stitches on cable needle behind piece, knit 4, knit 4 from cable needle |
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= place 4 stitches on cable needle in front of piece, knit 4, knit 4 from cable needle |
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= between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over; on the next row work the yarn over twisted to avoid a hole |
Do you need help with this pattern?
Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 215-3) for measurements and calculations.
Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.
1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?
Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.
The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.
The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.
3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?
The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.
Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.
See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?
4) How do I use the yarn converter?
At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).
If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.
5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?
The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.
Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?
Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.
The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.
Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.
9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.
When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.
When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.
When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.
When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.
When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.
The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?
Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.
The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?
Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.
14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?
It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.
See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)
15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?
To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.
See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately
16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?
Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.
Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!
17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?
Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.
See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open
18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?
Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.
See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?
19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?
Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.
It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.
The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.
20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?
If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.
Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.
21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?
All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.
Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding
Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:
1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.
2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.
3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.
4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.
22) Where on the garment is the length measured?
The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.
See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing
23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?
The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.
Comments / Questions (8)
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We reserve the right to withdraw the permission for use of our patterns at any time, notwithstanding the reason.
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Hello! This pattern is so beautiful and fun to make! I have 2 questions about it. 1. When it gives a total stitch count is that including the bands? For example I am making a size small so when it says you should have 251 stitches after the yoke increase, is this including the bands? 2. I forgot to place a stitch marker where it said so can i just measure the length of the yoke from the end of the ribbing for the neckline? Thank you!!
DROPS Design
20.09.2021 kl. 14:31:
Dear Katherine, yes the stitches for the buttonbands are included in the given stitchnumber. The marker for measuring should have been put in the first row after the ribbing of the neck, so you can add it later, or make your measurments from that point. Happy Stitching!Aber 15 M... das ist mit Nadelstärke 5,5 unmöglich !!!
Ich bitte Sie, die angegebene Maschenprobe zu kontrollieren. Die Nadelstärke 5,5 kann unmöglich für 15M und 17 R passen. Bei den empfohlenen Garnkombinationen steht für Sky und Kid Silk folgendes: "Die Maschenprobe für diese Kombination ist wie folgt: 14 Maschen x 22 Reihen = 10 x 10 cm, mit Nadel Nr. 7, was perfekt für unsere Anleitungen der Garngruppe D ist." Da muß doch ein Irrtum vorliegen. Gruppe C oder D ? Was stimmt ?
DROPS Design
29.06.2021 kl. 15:43:
Liebe Undine, ja nach der gewünschte Textur wird die Maschenprobe unterschiedlich sein, bei diesem Modell haben die Designerinnen so entschieden, mit einer Maschenprobe von 15 Maschen = 10 cm zu stricken, ; Hier lesen Sie mehr über die Maschenprobe. Viel Spaß beim stricken!Do you have any suggestions for colour mixes for the two yarns or should they be the same shade? Are there any illustrations anywhere?
DROPS Design
08.05.2021 kl. 19:05:
Dear Jennifer, it is up to you, which you chose. If You choose similar colors, the result will be more unicolored, if you choose contrasting colors, the result will be more heatherer, slitghtly tweedy effect. You can see more about the DROPS Sky+ Kid Silk combo HERE. Happy Knitting!Beste Drops Design, ik heb een probleem met het patroon van de Herringbone Hill Jacket na de boord. Je moet dan meerderen voor de raglan en tgltijd het patroon in breien. De 1e en 2e nld is geen probleem maar daarna heb je meer steken op de naald en dan kom je met naald 3 niet goed uit. Als ik de aanwijzingen aanhoud komt het patroon niet meer uit omdat je meer steken hebt. Hoe doe je dat? Graag hoor ik van u. Hgr, Maria
Dag Maria,
Je breit steeds A.1 boven A.1, A.2 boven A.2 etc. De gemeerderde raglansteken worden in tricotsteek gebreid.
Bij mij klopt de stekenverhouding niet, terwijl ik de aangeraden wol en bijbehorende pennen bij het patroon gebruik. Ik brei niet bijzonder strak of los, dus ik snap niet hoe dat kan. Bij de aanwijzingen zie ik staan dat de naalddikte slechts een richtlijn is en als je te veel steken hebt op de 10 cm : dan moet je dikkere naalden gebruiken en bij te weinig dunnere. Dat moet toch precies andersom zijn? Of vergis ik me nu? Hoor het graag.
Dag Maria,
Als je te veel steken op 10 cm hebt, moet je dikkere naalden gebruiken en opnieuw een proeflapje maken, totdat je de juiste stekenverhouding hebt. Het juiste aantal steken in de breedte is daarbij het belangrijkst. Het is normaal dat je stekenverhouding afwijkt, want iedereen breit anders. Zelf moet ik bijvoorbeeld altijd dunnere naalden hebben.
Bonjour, je souhaiterai faire ce gilet dans une laine câblée, mais étant donné que dans le modèle deux fils sont utilisés je ne suis pas sûre de pouvoir me fier à l outil de conversion proposé. Merci par avance!
DROPS Design
21.09.2020 kl. 08:34:
Bonjour Marguerite, vous trouverez plus d'infos sur les alternatives ici - en cas de doute, merci de bien vouloir contacter le magasin où vous avez acheté votre laine, on saura vous conseiller et vous assister. Bon tricot!Hallo. Opmerking voor alle Drops modellen... Zoveel mooie wol, zoveel mooie modellen maar helaas altijd te breien van boven naar onder. Ik kan nooit geen wol kopen en een model breien van Drops om die reden. Wij zijn gewoon om met twee lange breinaalden van onder naar boven te breien. Het zou goed zijn om modellen ook op die manier te beschrijven. Mvg, Carine.
Dag Carine,
Helaas zijn niet alle patronen geschikt om met rechte naalden te breien, met name de patronen met een ronde pas, waarbij het ingebreide patroon helemaal in de rondte doorloopt. We zijn in Nederland inderdaad gewend om met rechte naalden te breien, deze patronen komen oorspronkelijk uit Noorwegen. Er zitten trouwens wel patronen bij die met rechte naalden gebreid kunnen worden. Dit zijn vaak de patronen zonder de hierboven beschreven ronde pas. We hebben ook een uitleg gemaakt hoe je een patroon aan kunt passen om met rechte naalden te breien. Deze uitleg vind je hier