Herringbone Hill Jacket by DROPS Design
Knitted jacket in DROPS Sky and DROPS Kid-Silk. The piece is worked top down, with raglan, cables and Fisherman’s rib stitches. Sizes S - XXXL.
DROPS Design: Pattern no sk-100
Yarn group B + A
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SIZES:
S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Finished measurements:
Chest measurements: 98-106-114-122-138-146 cm = 38 1/2”-41 3/4”-45”-48”-54 1/4”-57 3/8”
Full length: 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm = 21 1/4"-22"-22 3/4"-23 5/8"-24 3/8"-25 1/4"
All measurements in charts are in cm.
MATERIALS:
DROPS SKY from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
200-250-250-300-300-350 g color 01, white
and use:
DROPS KID-SILK from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
100-125-125-125-150-150 g color 20, light beige
KNITTING GAUGE:
15 stitches in width and 17 rows in height with stockinette stitch and 1 strand of each quality = 10 x 10 cm = 4” x 4”.
NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 5.5 MM = US 9.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 5.5 MM = US 9: Length 40 cm = 16” and 60 cm = 24” or 80 cm = 32” for stockinette stitch.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 4 MM = US 6.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4 MM = US 6: Length 80 cm = 32” for rib.
DROPS CABLE NEEDLE – for cables.
Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a smaller needle size.
DROPS MOTHER OF PEARL BUTTONS, Arched (white) NO 522: 5-5-5-6-6-6 items.
Yarn group B + A
-------------------------------------------------------
SIZES:
S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Finished measurements:
Chest measurements: 98-106-114-122-138-146 cm = 38 1/2”-41 3/4”-45”-48”-54 1/4”-57 3/8”
Full length: 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm = 21 1/4"-22"-22 3/4"-23 5/8"-24 3/8"-25 1/4"
All measurements in charts are in cm.
MATERIALS:
DROPS SKY from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
200-250-250-300-300-350 g color 01, white
and use:
DROPS KID-SILK from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
100-125-125-125-150-150 g color 20, light beige
KNITTING GAUGE:
15 stitches in width and 17 rows in height with stockinette stitch and 1 strand of each quality = 10 x 10 cm = 4” x 4”.
NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 5.5 MM = US 9.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 5.5 MM = US 9: Length 40 cm = 16” and 60 cm = 24” or 80 cm = 32” for stockinette stitch.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 4 MM = US 6.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4 MM = US 6: Length 80 cm = 32” for rib.
DROPS CABLE NEEDLE – for cables.
Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a smaller needle size.
DROPS MOTHER OF PEARL BUTTONS, Arched (white) NO 522: 5-5-5-6-6-6 items.
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Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here.
There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here.
For this pattern in British English, please click here.
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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:
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RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge in height = Knit 2 rows.
PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.3. The diagrams show all rows in the pattern from the right side.
INCREASE TIP (evenly spaced):
To work out how to increase evenly, count the total number of stitches on the needle (e.g. 84 stitches) minus bands (e.g. 8 stitches) and divide the remaining stitches by the number of increases to be made (e.g. 27) = 2.8.
In this example, increase by making 1 yarn over after alternately each 2nd and 3rd stitch. Do not increase on bands. On the next row work the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.
RAGLAN:
All increases are worked from the right side!
Increase 1 stitch on each side of the raglan-stitch, by making 1 yarn over (8 stitches increased on each increase-row). On the next row (wrong side) purl the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. Then work the new stitches in stockinette stitch.
DECREASE TIP (for sleeves):
Decrease 1 stitch on either side of the marker thread as follows: Work until there are 3 stitches left before the marker thread, knit 2 together, knit 2 (marker thread sits between these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch.
BINDING-OFF TIP:
To avoid the bind-off edge being tight you can bind off with a larger size needle. If the edge is still tight, make 1 yarn over after approx. each 4th stitch at the same time as binding off; the yarn overs are bind off as normal stitches.
BUTTONHOLES:
Work buttonholes on right band (when garment is worn). Work from the right side when there are 3 stitches left on row as follows: Make 1 yarn over, knit 2 together and knit the last stitch. On the next row (wrong side) knit the yarn over to leave a hole.
The first buttonhole is worked 1 cm = 3/8” below the neck. The other 4-4-4-5-5-5 buttonholes are worked with 8-9 cm = 3 1/8”-3 1/2” between each one.
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START THE PIECE HERE:
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JACKET – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The neck and yoke are worked back and forth with circular needle from mid front and top down. The yoke is divided for body and sleeves and the body continued back and forth. The sleeves are worked in the round with short circular needle/double pointed needles, top down.
NECK:
Cast on 87-90-93-99-102-105 stitches (including 1 edge stitch on each side towards mid front) with circular needle size 4 mm = US 6 and 1 strand Sky and 1 strand Kid-Silk (= 2 strands). Purl 1 row (= wrong side). The next row is worked as follows from the right side: 1 edge stitch in GARTER STITCH – read description above, * knit 1, purl 2 *, work from *-* until there are 2 stitches left on the row, knit 1 and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Continue this rib for 10 cm = 4” (double neck).
YOKE:
When the rib is finished, change to circular needle size 5.5 mm = US 9 and work the next row as follows from the right side: Knit 1, knit the next 6 stitches together 2 and 2 (3 stitches decreased = 4 stitches for the band), knit 73-76-79-85-88-91 and increase 26-27-28-26-27-28 stitches evenly over these stitches – read INCREASE TIP, knit the next 6 stitches together 2 and 2, knit 1 (3 stitches decreased = 4 stitches for the band) = 107-111-115-119-123-127 stitches. Insert 1 marker after the band at the beginning of the row; the yoke is measured from this marker! Purl 1 row from the wrong side (yarn overs purled twisted and the bands worked in garter stitch).
Now work pattern as follows:
4 band stitches in garter stitch, A.1 over the next 16 stitches, knit 2-3-4-5-6-7 (= left front piece), 1 yarn over, knit 1 (= raglan-stitch), 1 yarn over, knit 12 (= sleeve), 1 yarn over, knit 1 (= raglan-stitch), 1 yarn over, knit 2-3-4-5-6-7, A.2 over the next 31 stitches, knit 2-3-4-5-6-7 (= back piece), 1 yarn over, knit 1 (= raglan-stitch), 1 yarn over, knit 12 (= sleeve), 1 yarn over, knit 1 (= raglan-stitch), 1 yarn over, knit 2-3-4-5-6-7, A.3 over the next 16 stitches, 4 band stitches in garter stitch (= right front piece). AT THE SAME TIME work BUTTONHOLE on the right band – read description above.
You have now increased 1 stitch to RAGLAN on each side of all the raglan-stitches in the transitions between the body and sleeves ¬– read description above. Continue this pattern back and forth and increase to raglan every 2nd row a total of 18-20-22-23-27-29 times = 251-271-291-303-339-359 stitches. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE!
Continue with the pattern without further increases to raglan until the yoke measures 21-24-26-28-31-35 cm = 8 1/4”-9 1/2”-10 1/4”-11”-12 1/4”-13 3/4” from the marker. Now divide the yoke for the body and sleeves on the next row from the wrong side as follows:
Work the first 41-44-47-49-54-57 stitches (= right front piece), place the next 48-52-56-58-66-70 stitches on a thread for the sleeve, cast on 6-6-6-8-8-10 new stitches on the needle (= in side under the sleeve), work the next 73-79-85-89-99-105 stitches (= back piece), place the next 48-52-56-58-66-70 stitches on a thread for the sleeve, cast on 6-6-6-8-8-10 new stitches on the needle (= in side under the sleeve), work the last 41-44-47-49-54-57 stitches (= left front piece).
Body and sleeves are finished separately. THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE.
BODY:
= 167-179-191-203-223-239 stitches. Continue back and forth with 4 band stitches in garter stitch on each side, patterns A.1, A.2 and A.3 as before and stockinette stitch over the other stitches. Continue working until the piece measures 19-18-18-18-17-15 cm = 7 1/2”-7”-7”-7”-6 3/4”-6” from the division – adjust so you finish on row 5 in A.1, A.2 and A.3. Change to circular needle size 4 mm = US 6.
Now work as follows from the wrong side: 4 band stitches in garter stitch, A.3b over the next 16 stitches (2 stitches increased = 18 stitches), purl 48-54-60-66-76-84 and increase 10-10-13-13-15-16 stitches evenly over these stitches (= 58-64-73-79-91-100 stitches), A.2b over the next 31 stitches (4 stitches increased = 35 stitches), purl 48-54-60-66-76-84 stitches and increase 10-10-13-13-15-16 stitches evenly over these stitches (= 58-64-73-79-91-100 stitches), A.1b over the next 16 stitches (2 stitches increased = 18 stitches), 4 band stitches in garter stitch. There are 195-207-225-237-261-279 stitches on the needle. Now work rib (knit 1, purl 2) inside the 4 band stitches in garter stitch on each side and continue with A.1b over A.1, A.2b over A.2 and A.3b over A.3 – first row from the right side. NOTE! There should now be knit 1, purl 2 over all stitches between the bands. When the rib measures 10 cm = 4”, bind off with knit over knit and purl over purl – read BINDING-OFF TIP. The jacket measures approx. 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm = 21 1/4"-22"-22 3/4"-23 5/8"-24 3/8"-25 1/4" from the shoulder down.
SLEEVE:
Place the 48-52-56-58-66-70 stitches from the thread on the one side of the piece on double pointed needles/short circular needle size 5.5 mm = US 9 and knit up 1 stitch in each of the new stitches under the sleeve = 54-58-62-66-74-80 stitches. Insert a marker thread in the middle of the new stitches (= 3-3-3-4-4-5 new stitches on each side of the thread). Work stockinette stitch in the round.
When the sleeve measures 4 cm = 1 1/2” from the division, decrease 2 stitches under the sleeve ¬– read DECREASE TIP-1. Decrease like this every 3½-3-2½-2-1½-1 cm = 1 1/4”-1 1/8”-7/8”-3/4”-1/2”-3/8” a total of 9-10-11-12-15-17 times = 36-38-40-42-44-46 stitches. When the sleeve measures 34-32-30-29-26-23 cm = 13 3/8”-12 1/2”-11 3/4”-11 3/8”-10 1/4”-9” (shorter measurements in larger sizes due to wider neck and longer yoke) knit 1 round where you increase 9-7-8-9-7-8 stitches = 45-45-48-51-51-54 stitches. Change to double pointed needles size 4 mm = US 6 and work rib (= knit 1, purl 2) for 6 cm = 2 3/8”. Bind off with knit over knit and purl over purl. The sleeve measures approx. 40-38-36-35-32-29 cm = 15 3/4”-15”-14 1/4”-13 3/4”-12 1/2”-11 3/8” from the division. Work the other sleeve in the same way.
ASSEMBLY:
Fold the neck to the inside and sew down. To avoid the neck being tight and rolling outwards, it is important the seam is elastic.
Sew the buttons onto the left band.
EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:
-------------------------------------------------------
RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge in height = Knit 2 rows.
PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.3. The diagrams show all rows in the pattern from the right side.
INCREASE TIP (evenly spaced):
To work out how to increase evenly, count the total number of stitches on the needle (e.g. 84 stitches) minus bands (e.g. 8 stitches) and divide the remaining stitches by the number of increases to be made (e.g. 27) = 2.8.
In this example, increase by making 1 yarn over after alternately each 2nd and 3rd stitch. Do not increase on bands. On the next row work the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.
RAGLAN:
All increases are worked from the right side!
Increase 1 stitch on each side of the raglan-stitch, by making 1 yarn over (8 stitches increased on each increase-row). On the next row (wrong side) purl the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. Then work the new stitches in stockinette stitch.
DECREASE TIP (for sleeves):
Decrease 1 stitch on either side of the marker thread as follows: Work until there are 3 stitches left before the marker thread, knit 2 together, knit 2 (marker thread sits between these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch.
BINDING-OFF TIP:
To avoid the bind-off edge being tight you can bind off with a larger size needle. If the edge is still tight, make 1 yarn over after approx. each 4th stitch at the same time as binding off; the yarn overs are bind off as normal stitches.
BUTTONHOLES:
Work buttonholes on right band (when garment is worn). Work from the right side when there are 3 stitches left on row as follows: Make 1 yarn over, knit 2 together and knit the last stitch. On the next row (wrong side) knit the yarn over to leave a hole.
The first buttonhole is worked 1 cm = 3/8” below the neck. The other 4-4-4-5-5-5 buttonholes are worked with 8-9 cm = 3 1/8”-3 1/2” between each one.
-------------------------------------------------------
START THE PIECE HERE:
-------------------------------------------------------
JACKET – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The neck and yoke are worked back and forth with circular needle from mid front and top down. The yoke is divided for body and sleeves and the body continued back and forth. The sleeves are worked in the round with short circular needle/double pointed needles, top down.
NECK:
Cast on 87-90-93-99-102-105 stitches (including 1 edge stitch on each side towards mid front) with circular needle size 4 mm = US 6 and 1 strand Sky and 1 strand Kid-Silk (= 2 strands). Purl 1 row (= wrong side). The next row is worked as follows from the right side: 1 edge stitch in GARTER STITCH – read description above, * knit 1, purl 2 *, work from *-* until there are 2 stitches left on the row, knit 1 and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Continue this rib for 10 cm = 4” (double neck).
YOKE:
When the rib is finished, change to circular needle size 5.5 mm = US 9 and work the next row as follows from the right side: Knit 1, knit the next 6 stitches together 2 and 2 (3 stitches decreased = 4 stitches for the band), knit 73-76-79-85-88-91 and increase 26-27-28-26-27-28 stitches evenly over these stitches – read INCREASE TIP, knit the next 6 stitches together 2 and 2, knit 1 (3 stitches decreased = 4 stitches for the band) = 107-111-115-119-123-127 stitches. Insert 1 marker after the band at the beginning of the row; the yoke is measured from this marker! Purl 1 row from the wrong side (yarn overs purled twisted and the bands worked in garter stitch).
Now work pattern as follows:
4 band stitches in garter stitch, A.1 over the next 16 stitches, knit 2-3-4-5-6-7 (= left front piece), 1 yarn over, knit 1 (= raglan-stitch), 1 yarn over, knit 12 (= sleeve), 1 yarn over, knit 1 (= raglan-stitch), 1 yarn over, knit 2-3-4-5-6-7, A.2 over the next 31 stitches, knit 2-3-4-5-6-7 (= back piece), 1 yarn over, knit 1 (= raglan-stitch), 1 yarn over, knit 12 (= sleeve), 1 yarn over, knit 1 (= raglan-stitch), 1 yarn over, knit 2-3-4-5-6-7, A.3 over the next 16 stitches, 4 band stitches in garter stitch (= right front piece). AT THE SAME TIME work BUTTONHOLE on the right band – read description above.
You have now increased 1 stitch to RAGLAN on each side of all the raglan-stitches in the transitions between the body and sleeves ¬– read description above. Continue this pattern back and forth and increase to raglan every 2nd row a total of 18-20-22-23-27-29 times = 251-271-291-303-339-359 stitches. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE!
Continue with the pattern without further increases to raglan until the yoke measures 21-24-26-28-31-35 cm = 8 1/4”-9 1/2”-10 1/4”-11”-12 1/4”-13 3/4” from the marker. Now divide the yoke for the body and sleeves on the next row from the wrong side as follows:
Work the first 41-44-47-49-54-57 stitches (= right front piece), place the next 48-52-56-58-66-70 stitches on a thread for the sleeve, cast on 6-6-6-8-8-10 new stitches on the needle (= in side under the sleeve), work the next 73-79-85-89-99-105 stitches (= back piece), place the next 48-52-56-58-66-70 stitches on a thread for the sleeve, cast on 6-6-6-8-8-10 new stitches on the needle (= in side under the sleeve), work the last 41-44-47-49-54-57 stitches (= left front piece).
Body and sleeves are finished separately. THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE.
BODY:
= 167-179-191-203-223-239 stitches. Continue back and forth with 4 band stitches in garter stitch on each side, patterns A.1, A.2 and A.3 as before and stockinette stitch over the other stitches. Continue working until the piece measures 19-18-18-18-17-15 cm = 7 1/2”-7”-7”-7”-6 3/4”-6” from the division – adjust so you finish on row 5 in A.1, A.2 and A.3. Change to circular needle size 4 mm = US 6.
Now work as follows from the wrong side: 4 band stitches in garter stitch, A.3b over the next 16 stitches (2 stitches increased = 18 stitches), purl 48-54-60-66-76-84 and increase 10-10-13-13-15-16 stitches evenly over these stitches (= 58-64-73-79-91-100 stitches), A.2b over the next 31 stitches (4 stitches increased = 35 stitches), purl 48-54-60-66-76-84 stitches and increase 10-10-13-13-15-16 stitches evenly over these stitches (= 58-64-73-79-91-100 stitches), A.1b over the next 16 stitches (2 stitches increased = 18 stitches), 4 band stitches in garter stitch. There are 195-207-225-237-261-279 stitches on the needle. Now work rib (knit 1, purl 2) inside the 4 band stitches in garter stitch on each side and continue with A.1b over A.1, A.2b over A.2 and A.3b over A.3 – first row from the right side. NOTE! There should now be knit 1, purl 2 over all stitches between the bands. When the rib measures 10 cm = 4”, bind off with knit over knit and purl over purl – read BINDING-OFF TIP. The jacket measures approx. 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm = 21 1/4"-22"-22 3/4"-23 5/8"-24 3/8"-25 1/4" from the shoulder down.
SLEEVE:
Place the 48-52-56-58-66-70 stitches from the thread on the one side of the piece on double pointed needles/short circular needle size 5.5 mm = US 9 and knit up 1 stitch in each of the new stitches under the sleeve = 54-58-62-66-74-80 stitches. Insert a marker thread in the middle of the new stitches (= 3-3-3-4-4-5 new stitches on each side of the thread). Work stockinette stitch in the round.
When the sleeve measures 4 cm = 1 1/2” from the division, decrease 2 stitches under the sleeve ¬– read DECREASE TIP-1. Decrease like this every 3½-3-2½-2-1½-1 cm = 1 1/4”-1 1/8”-7/8”-3/4”-1/2”-3/8” a total of 9-10-11-12-15-17 times = 36-38-40-42-44-46 stitches. When the sleeve measures 34-32-30-29-26-23 cm = 13 3/8”-12 1/2”-11 3/4”-11 3/8”-10 1/4”-9” (shorter measurements in larger sizes due to wider neck and longer yoke) knit 1 round where you increase 9-7-8-9-7-8 stitches = 45-45-48-51-51-54 stitches. Change to double pointed needles size 4 mm = US 6 and work rib (= knit 1, purl 2) for 6 cm = 2 3/8”. Bind off with knit over knit and purl over purl. The sleeve measures approx. 40-38-36-35-32-29 cm = 15 3/4”-15”-14 1/4”-13 3/4”-12 1/2”-11 3/8” from the division. Work the other sleeve in the same way.
ASSEMBLY:
Fold the neck to the inside and sew down. To avoid the neck being tight and rolling outwards, it is important the seam is elastic.
Sew the buttons onto the left band.
Diagram
All measurements in charts are in cm.
|
= knit from right side, purl from wrong side |
|
= purl from right side, knit from wrong side |
|
= insert the right needle through the stitch from the previous row, knit 1 and slip the stitch from the needle (= Fisherman’s rib stitch) |
|
= place 4 stitches on cable needle behind piece, knit 4, knit 4 from cable needle |
|
= place 4 stitches on cable needle in front of piece, knit 4, knit 4 from cable needle |
|
= between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over; on the next row work the yarn over twisted to avoid a hole |
© 1982-2022 DROPS Design A/S We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights.
What can you do with our patterns? You can share DROPS patterns online, using the pattern original picture, materials, name and number. But you are NOT ALLOWED to reproduce the complete pattern digitally in any way. Yarn stores are welcome to use the DROPS pattern database to promote the sale of our assortment. You can print out our patterns, make as many copies as you’d like. The only thing we ask is that you don't make any changes / additions to the original printed document. And that the patterns according to the DROPS philosophy are given out to the consumers for free. Editorials that wish to publish our patterns in printed books or magazines can contact us for more information. The sale of garments based on DROPS patterns is permitted as long as they are sold as single items or per order. Further commercial use of the patterns is not permitted. It has to be clearly stated that the garment is made based on a design from DROPS DESIGN. The use of clothing labels of which DROPS DESIGN forms part is conditioned by the inclusion of the following text: “A DROPS DESIGN made by …..”. The use of DROPS photos for marketing purposes/sales is only permitted in connection with the use/sale of DROPS products. The photos may not be cut or edited and the logo should be clearly visible.
We reserve the right to withdraw the permission for use of our patterns at any time, notwithstanding the reason.
What can you do with our patterns? You can share DROPS patterns online, using the pattern original picture, materials, name and number. But you are NOT ALLOWED to reproduce the complete pattern digitally in any way. Yarn stores are welcome to use the DROPS pattern database to promote the sale of our assortment. You can print out our patterns, make as many copies as you’d like. The only thing we ask is that you don't make any changes / additions to the original printed document. And that the patterns according to the DROPS philosophy are given out to the consumers for free. Editorials that wish to publish our patterns in printed books or magazines can contact us for more information. The sale of garments based on DROPS patterns is permitted as long as they are sold as single items or per order. Further commercial use of the patterns is not permitted. It has to be clearly stated that the garment is made based on a design from DROPS DESIGN. The use of clothing labels of which DROPS DESIGN forms part is conditioned by the inclusion of the following text: “A DROPS DESIGN made by …..”. The use of DROPS photos for marketing purposes/sales is only permitted in connection with the use/sale of DROPS products. The photos may not be cut or edited and the logo should be clearly visible.
We reserve the right to withdraw the permission for use of our patterns at any time, notwithstanding the reason.
With over 30 years in knitting and crochet design, DROPS Design offers one of the most extensive collections of free patterns on the internet - translated to 17 languages. As of today we count 287 catalogs and 10654 patterns - 10650 of which are translated into English (US/in).
We work hard to bring you the best knitting and crochet have to offer, inspiration and advice as well as great quality yarns at incredible prices! Would you like to use our patterns for other than personal use? You can read what you are allowed to do in the Copyright text at the bottom of all our patterns. Happy crafting!
Kan man erstatte Drops Sky med Drops Soft Tweed, og vil jakken så blive mere "fast" og holde facon
17.08.2022 - 08:01DROPS Design answered:
Hei Pia. Både DROPS Sky og DROPS Soft Tweed tilhører samme garngruppe og kan brukes om hverandre. Soft Tweed`n vil nok gjøre at fasongen holder seg litt bedre da den er mer formsterk enn Sky. Du vil nok bruke mer garn enn Sky, da Soft Tweed har en kortere løpelengde. Sjekk ut vår Garnkalkulator (til høyre for bildet) og den vil regne ut hvor mye garn du trenger i den str. du skal strikke. Se også på garnsiden til Soft Tweed, scroll ned og se/les litt om DROPS Soft Tweed + DROPS Kid-Silk under Tips&Hjelp. God Fornøyelse!
22.08.2022 kl. 09:29Bonjour, Est-ce que dans cet ouvrage "gilet" ou veste, aig. circulaires, il y a des "endroit" et des "envers" parce que l'on fait des aller-retour, parce que l'ouvrage est ouvert devant. Autrement dit, l'on retourne l'ouvrage ? C'est la première fois que je ferais des torsades ; alors il serait préférable que je tricote le pull ? Merci par avance.
02.02.2022 - 04:15DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Christine, ce gilet se tricote effectivement en rangs = en allers et retours, autrement dit alternativement sur l'endroit et sur l'envers - cette vidéo montre comment tricoter en allers et retours sur aiguille circulaire, cela pourra peut-être vous aider. Bon tricot!
02.02.2022 kl. 08:15Bonjour Quand vous dites de monter 93 mailles ( y compris 1 maille lisière de chaque côté) Est-ce que vous voulez dire plus 2 = 95 mailles Merci
30.12.2021 - 19:37DROPS Design answered:
Bonsoir Line, vous devez monter 93 mailles (1 maille lisiere + 91 mailles + 1 maille lisiere). Bon tricot!
30.12.2021 kl. 19:57Bonjour, Quand vous dites de monter 93 mailles (y compris 1 maille lisière de chaque côté) Est-ce que ça veut dire plus 2 mailles = 95 mailles. ? Merci
30.12.2021 - 19:34DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Line, les mailles lisières sont comprises dans les 93 mailles et ne sont pas à ajouter, montez 93 mailles (et 2 d'entre elles seront les mailles lisières). Bon tricot!
03.01.2022 kl. 14:25Kedves Joanette! Eltévesztettem a nevét az első levelemben... Nagyon sajnálom! 🤭 🙂
07.11.2021 - 10:06Kedves Katherine! Nagyon szeretném megkötni ezt a kardigánt,de nem található a minta leírása. Segitség! 🙂 Köszönöm!
06.11.2021 - 13:59Hello! This pattern is so beautiful and fun to make! I have 2 questions about it. 1. When it gives a total stitch count is that including the bands? For example I am making a size small so when it says you should have 251 stitches after the yoke increase, is this including the bands? 2. I forgot to place a stitch marker where it said so can i just measure the length of the yoke from the end of the ribbing for the neckline? Thank you!!
20.09.2021 - 14:20DROPS Design answered:
Dear Katherine, yes the stitches for the buttonbands are included in the given stitchnumber. The marker for measuring should have been put in the first row after the ribbing of the neck, so you can add it later, or make your measurments from that point. Happy Stitching!
20.09.2021 kl. 14:31Aber 15 M... das ist mit Nadelstärke 5,5 unmöglich !!!
29.06.2021 - 16:58Ich bitte Sie, die angegebene Maschenprobe zu kontrollieren. Die Nadelstärke 5,5 kann unmöglich für 15M und 17 R passen. Bei den empfohlenen Garnkombinationen steht für Sky und Kid Silk folgendes: "Die Maschenprobe für diese Kombination ist wie folgt: 14 Maschen x 22 Reihen = 10 x 10 cm, mit Nadel Nr. 7, was perfekt für unsere Anleitungen der Garngruppe D ist." Da muß doch ein Irrtum vorliegen. Gruppe C oder D ? Was stimmt ?
29.06.2021 - 11:01DROPS Design answered:
Liebe Undine, ja nach der gewünschte Textur wird die Maschenprobe unterschiedlich sein, bei diesem Modell haben die Designerinnen so entschieden, mit einer Maschenprobe von 15 Maschen = 10 cm zu stricken, ; Hier lesen Sie mehr über die Maschenprobe. Viel Spaß beim stricken!
29.06.2021 kl. 15:43Do you have any suggestions for colour mixes for the two yarns or should they be the same shade? Are there any illustrations anywhere?
08.05.2021 - 18:43DROPS Design answered:
Dear Jennifer, it is up to you, which you chose. If You choose similar colors, the result will be more unicolored, if you choose contrasting colors, the result will be more heatherer, slitghtly tweedy effect. You can see more about the DROPS Sky+ Kid Silk combo HERE. Happy Knitting!
08.05.2021 kl. 19:05