DROPS / 211 / 15

Spiced Breeze by DROPS Design

Knitted top in DROPS Paris. Piece is knitted in stockinette stitch with edges in rib. Size: S - XXXL

Tags: bottom up, tops,
  • Spiced Breeze / DROPS 211-15 - Knitted top in DROPS Paris. Piece is knitted in stockinette stitch with edges in rib. Size: S - XXXL
  • Spiced Breeze / DROPS 211-15 - Knitted top in DROPS Paris. Piece is knitted in stockinette stitch with edges in rib. Size: S - XXXL
  • Spiced Breeze / DROPS 211-15 - Knitted top in DROPS Paris. Piece is knitted in stockinette stitch with edges in rib. Size: S - XXXL
DROPS design: Pattern w-807
Yarn group C or A + A
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SIZE:
S - M - L - XL - XXL – XXXL

Finished measurements:
Chest measurements: 80-88-96-106-118-130 cm = 31 1/2”-34 5/8”-37 3/4”-41 3/4”-46 1/2”-51 1/4”
Full length: 38-40-42-44-46-48 cm = 15”-15 3/4”-16 1/2”-17 1/4”-18”-19”

All measurements in charts are in cm.

MATERIALS:
DROPS PARIS from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
200-200-200-250-250-300 g color 65, rust

KNITTING GAUGE:
17 stitches in width and 22 rows vertically in stockinette stitch = 10 x 10 cm = 4” x 4”.

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 5 mm = US 8: Length 60 or 80 cm = 24” or 32” for stockinette stitch.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4.5 mm = US 7: Length 60 or 80 cm = 24” or 32” for rib.
Needle size is only a suggestion! If you have too many stitches on 10 cm = 4” switch to a larger needle size. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm = 4” switch to a smaller needle size.

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Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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100% Cotton
from 1.80 $ /50g
DROPS Paris uni colour DROPS Paris uni colour 2.20 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
Order
DROPS Paris recycled denim DROPS Paris recycled denim 1.80 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
Order
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 7.20$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
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EXPLANATION FOR THE PATTERN:

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GARTER STITCH (worked in the round):
1 ridge vertically = 2 rounds, i.e. knit 1 round and purl 1 round.

GARTER STITCH (back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge vertically = knit 2 rows.

DECREASE TIP (applies to armholes):
Decrease for armhole inside 2 edge stitches in garter stitch. All decreases are done from the right side.
Decrease as follows after 2 edge stitches in garter stitch: Slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked (= 1 stitch decreased).
Decrease as follows before 2 edge stitches in garter stitch: Begin 2 stitches before the 2 edge stitches and knit 2 together (= 1 stitch decreased).

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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TOP - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
Worked in the round on circular needle, from the bottom and up to armholes. Then work front and back piece back and forth on circular needle separately. Then sew the shoulder seams.

BODY:
Cast on 136-148-164-180-200-220 stitches on circular needle size 4.5 mm = US 7 with Paris. Knit 1 round. Then work rib in the round (= knit 2/purl 2) for 8 cm = 3 1/2”.
Insert 1 marker thread at beginning of round and 1 marker thread after 68-74-82-90-100-110 stitches. Marker threads mark the sides on body.
Switch to circular needle size 5 mm = US 8 and work in stockinette stitch in the round. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE!
When piece measures 21-22-23-24-25-26 cm = 8 1/4”-8 3/4”-9”-9 1/2”-9 3/4”-10 1/4”, , work 2 ridges in GARTER STITCH - read explanation above, over the middle 10-10-14-14-20-24 stitches in each side (marker threads are in the middle of these 10-10-14-14-20-24 stitches - work the other stiches in stockinette stitch).
On first round after the 2 ridges bind off for armholes as follows: Bind off 3-3-5-5-8-10 stitches, work 62-68-72-80-84-90 stitches in stockinette stitch, bind off 6-6-10-10-16-20 stitches (marker thread is in the middle of these 6-6-10-10-16-20 stitches), work 62-68-72-80-84-90 stitches in stockinette stitch, and bind off the remaining 3-3-5-5-8-10 stitches. Cut the yarn. Finish front and back piece separately.

FRONT PIECE:
= 62-68-72-80-84-90 stitches. Begin from wrong side and continue with stockinette stitch back and forth and 2 edge stitches in garter stitch in each side. AT THE SAME TIME on first row from right side, decrease 1 stitch in each side for armholes - read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this on every other row (i.e. every row from right side) 4-5-5-7-7-8 times in total in each side = 54-58-62-66-70-74 stitches remain. After last decrease for armholes, purl 1 row from wrong side with 2 edge stitches in garter stitch in each side.
Switch to circular needle size 4.5 mm = US 7 and work next row from right side as follows: 2 edge stitches in garter stitch, * knit 2, purl 2 *, repeat from *-* until 4 stitches remain, knit 2 and finish with 2 edge stitches in garter stitch. Continue rib like this for 3 cm = 1 1/8”.
On next row from right side bind off for neck as follows: Work 2 edge stitches in garter stitch, * knit 2, purl 2 *, work from *-* 1-1-1-2-2-2 times in total, knit 2 and 2 stitches in garter stitch, then bind off the next 34-38-42-38-42-46 stitches for neck (bind off with knit over knit and purl over purl), work 2 stitches in garter stitch, * knit 2, purl 2 *, work from *-* 1-1-1-2-2-2 times in total, knit 2 and finish 2 edge stitches in garter stitch. There are now 10-10-10-14-14-14 stitches remain in each side for shoulder strap. Finish the shoulder straps separately.

SHOULDER STRAP:
= 10-10-10-14-14-14 stitches. Work rib back and forth as before with 2 edge stitches in garter stitch in each side until entire piece measures 38-40-42-44-46-48 cm = 15”-15 3/4”-16 1/2”-17 1/4”-18”-19” from cast-on edge (or desired length). Bind off. Work the other shoulder strap the same way.

BACK PIECE:
= 62-68-72-80-84-90 stitches. Begin from wrong side and continue with stockinette stitch back and forth and 2 edge stitches in garter stitch in each side. AT THE SAME TIME on first row from right side, decrease 1 stitch in each side for armholes - read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this on every 4th row (not on every other row on front piece) 4-5-5-7-7-8 times in total in each side = 54-58-62-66-70-74 stitches.
After last decrease for armholes, purl 1 row from wrong side with 2 edge stitches in garter stitch in each side.
Switch to circular needle size 4.5 mm = US 7 and work next row from right side as follows: 2 edge stitches in garter stitch, * knit 2, purl 2 *, repeat from *-* until 4 stitches remain, knit 2 and finish with 2 edge stitches in garter stitch. Continue rib like this for 3 cm = 1 1/8”.
On next row from right side bind off for neck as follows: Work 2 edge stitches in garter stitch, * knit 2, purl 2 *, work from *-* 1-1-1-2-2-2 times in total, knit 2 and 2 stitches in garter stitch, then bind off the next 34-38-42-38-42-46 stitches for neck (bind off with knit over knit and purl over purl), work 2 stitches in garter stitch, * knit 2, purl 2 *, work from *-* 1-1-1-2-2-2 times in total, knit 2 and finish 2 edge stitches in garter stitch. There are now 10-10-10-14-14-14 stitches remain in each side for shoulder strap. Work shoulder straps separately the same way as on front piece.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the shoulder seams.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

diagram measurements
signature

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 211-15) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (55)

country flag Kasia 08.10.2021 - 09:44:

Dziękuję bardzo za szybkie wyjaśnienie. Pozdrawiam, Kasia

country flag Kasia 07.10.2021 - 21:11:

Witam, czy na pewno tył należy przerabiać tak jak w opisie? Jeśli tak robię, to wychodzi dużo wyżej niż przód a szelki są krótsze od przodu ? Proszę o korektę Pozdrawiam serdecznie

user icon DROPS Design 08.10.2021 kl. 08:46:

Witaj Kasiu, podkrój dekoltu z tyłu będzie wyżej niż z przodu, gdyż tył jest dłuższy. Szelki z tyłu będą krótsze niż z przodu. Przerabiaj tył, aż cała ta część (razem z szelką będzie mieć 44 cm). Jeśli chcesz aby tył i przód były takie same, przerabiaj tył tak samo jak przód. Co do długości szelek, to oczywiście możesz je dopasować do swojego rozmiaru. Pozdrawiamy!

country flag Kasia 05.10.2021 - 19:06:

Witam, mam pytanie, czy długość szelek przerabianych z przodu ma mieć 44 cm??? To chyba pomyłka, bo dochodzi jeszcze długość szelek z tyłu Pozdrawiam

user icon DROPS Design 05.10.2021 kl. 20:07:

Witaj Kasiu, powinno być "aż długość robótki (z szelką włącznie) wynosi 38-40-42-44-46-48 cm od rzędu nabierania oczek (lub ma inną długość wg uznania)." Już skorygowałam pomyłkę na stronie. Bardzo dziękuję i pozdrawiam!

country flag Kasia 24.09.2021 - 14:28:

Witam, czyli na podkroje rękawów zakończyć po 10 oczek na ściągaczach francuskich a nie zamknąć?

user icon DROPS Design 24.09.2021 kl. 14:51:

Witaj Kasiu, zamknąć te 10 o. = zakończyć, tak samo jak się kończy robótkę. Zobacz film TUTAJ. Pozdrawiam

country flag Kasia 23.09.2021 - 20:54:

Serdecznie dziękuję za rozjaśnienie instrukcji 😊 Proszę jeszcze napisać , czy robiąc oddzielnie tył i przód biorę nie nitki ? Pozdrawiam i dziękuję za szybkie odpowiedzi i cierpliwość 😉

user icon DROPS Design 24.09.2021 kl. 09:11:

Witaj Kasiu, chodziło Ci o 2 oddzielne nitki? Tak to zrozumiałam. Nitka po wykonaniu przodu i tyłu (razem na okrągło) została odcięta, dlatego teraz bierzesz nową nitkę i dołączasz do robótki, aby wykonać pozostałą część tyłu i drugą na pozostałą część przodu. Powodzenia!!

country flag Kasia 22.09.2021 - 18:51:

Witam, odkąd liczyć pierwsze okrążenie za ściągaczami francuskimi, jeśli chodzi o zamykanie o. na podkroje rękawów? Kiedy zamykam w rozmiarze XL 10 oczek, marker nie znajduje się w ich środku, tylko pośrodku 14 o. ściągacza. Brakuje oczek, żeby zamknąć tych 5 ostatnich. Wychodzą na 5 pierwszych zamkniętych. Co robię nie tak ?

user icon DROPS Design 22.09.2021 kl. 20:16:

Kasiu, na podkroje rękawów zamykasz 10 o. na środku tych 2 ściągaczy francuskich na bokach (po 5 oczek z każdej strony każdego markera na bokach). 2 pozostałe oczka z każdej strony ściągacza francuskiego wejdą w skład przodu i tyłu i dalej będziesz zamykać oczka na podkroje rękawów przed/za tymi 2 oczkami ściegiem francuskim (patrz poprzednia odpowiedź). Powodzenia!

country flag Kasia 22.09.2021 - 17:25:

Zamykałam na początku ? Proszę o korektę

user icon DROPS Design 22.09.2021 kl. 17:48:

Kasiu nie rozumiem pytania/prośby. Proszę napisz dokładniej. Pozdrawiam

country flag Kasia 20.09.2021 - 20:13:

Witam, jestem na etapie zamykania oczek na podkroje rękawów za dwoma ściągaczami ściegiem francuskim i nie rozumiem wskazówki - zamknąć w odległości 2 oczek ściegiem francuskim od brzegów. Bardzo proszę o wyjaśnienie, gdzie te brzegi i o jaka odległość 2 oczek chodzi? Jeszcze proszę o pomoc co zrobić, bo zgubiłam gdzieś jedno oczko że 180 czy mogę je teraz, gdzieś dodać? Gdzie najlepiej? Pozdrawiam serdecznie

user icon DROPS Design 21.09.2021 kl. 10:24:

Witaj Kasiu, jak zamkniesz oczka na podkroje rękawów, to przerabiasz dalej tył i przód oddzielnie. Wtedy będziesz zamykać oczka na formowanie podkrojów rękawów w odl. 2 oczek od brzegów robótki (z każdej strony). Zamykać za 2 oczkami brzegowymi ściegiem francuskim oznacza zamykać za 2 pierwszymi oczkami w rzędzie. Zamykać przed 2 oczkami brzegowymi ściegiem francuskim znaczy zamykać przed 2 ostatnimi oczkami w rzędzie (patrz ZAMYKANIE OCZEK (podkroje rękawów)). Co do zguby dodaj gdzieś z boku, żeby nie było widać. Pozdrawiamy

country flag Kasia 08.09.2021 - 20:34:

Witam, proszę o wyjaśnienie co oznacza zamykanie oczek ściegiem francuskim des bords ?

user icon DROPS Design 08.09.2021 kl. 21:59:

Witaj Kasiu, dziękuję bardzo za twój komentarz, już koryguję tłumaczenie: 'Zamykać na podkroje rękawów w odl. 2 oczek ściegiem francuskim od brzegów'. Pozdrawiamy serdecznie!

country flag Renée 21.08.2021 - 11:57:

Jag har kört fast! Jag ska börja sticka resår för framstycket men förstår inte hur jag gör det rätt. Efter att ha stickat första varvet och vänder sedan på arbetet för att fortsätta, blir det ju tvärtom - räta blir aviga osv, så det blir ju ingen resår? Hur gör jag :-(

user icon DROPS Design 24.08.2021 kl. 09:48:

Hej Renée. Du ska sticka fram - och bakstycket runt (efter ärmhålen stickas arbetet sedan fram och tillbaka) så när du stickat första varvet fortsätter du bara runt med varv två och stickar räta över räta och aviga över aviga i 8 cm. Mvh DROPS Design

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