DROPS Paris
DROPS Paris
100% Cotton
from 1.10 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 5.50$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

Pink Shell

Knitted top in DROPS Paris. Piece is knitted with textured pattern. Size XS–XXL.

DROPS 211-10
DROPS design: Pattern w-798
Yarn group C or A + A
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SIZE:
XS - S - M - L - XL – XXL

Finished measurements:
Chest measurements: 76-82-90-94-106-120 cm = 30”-32 1/4”-35 1/2”-37”-41 3/4”-47 1/4”
Full length: 46-48-50-52-54-56 cm = 18”-19”-19 3/4"-20 1/2"-21 1/4"-22"

All measurements in charts are in cm.

MATERIALS:
DROPS PARIS from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
250-250-250-300-350-400 g color 63, desert rose

KNITTING GAUGE:
16 stitches in width and 24 rows vertically in texture pattern = 10 x 10 cm = 4” x 4”.

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 5.5 mm = US 9: Length 80 cm = 32” for texture pattern.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4.5 mm = US 7: Length 40 cm = 16” for rib.
Needle size is only a suggestion! If you have too many stitches on 10 cm = 4” switch to a larger needle size. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm = 4” switch to a smaller needle size.
Categories:
Women Tops Singlets
Keywords:
bottom up halter neck rib

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Paris
DROPS Paris
100% Cotton
from 1.10 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 5.50$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
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EXPLANATION FOR THE PATTERN:

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GARTER STITCH (back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge vertically = knit 2 rows.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.3. Diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from the right side.

DECREASE TIP:
All decreases are done from the right side:
Decrease 1 stitch in each side as follows:
Work the first 6 stitches, slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked (= 1 stitch decreased), work until 8 stitches remain on needle, knit 2 together (= 1 stitch decreased), work the remaining stitches on needle.
Decrease 2 stitches in each side as follows:
Work the first 6 stitches, slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 2 together, pass slipped stitch over stitches worked together (= 2 stitches decreased), work until 9 stitches remain, knit 3 together (= 2 stitches decreased), work the remaining stitches on needle.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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TOP - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
Top is worked in the round on circular needle up to armhole. Bind off stitch in each side for armholes and then work front and back piece separately. Finish working the neck edge in the round on circular needle.

BODY:
Cast on 120-132-144-150-168-192 stitches on circular needle size 5.5 mm = US 9 with Paris. Knit 1 round. Insert a marker thread at beginning of round and 1 marker thread after 60-66-72-75-84-96 stitches (= in the sides). Move the marker threads upwards when working.
Work A.1 in the round on round. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE! Continue like this until piece measures 30-32-33-34-35-36 cm = 11 3/4”-12 1/2”-13”-13 3/8”-13 3/4”-14 1/4” – adjust so that next round worked is a round with (knit 2 + 1 purl stitch).
Now work next round as follows: Bind off the first 4-4-7-7-7-10 stitches, work pattern as before over the next 51-57-60-60-69-78 stitches, bind off the next 9-9-12-15-15-18 stitches (i.e. 5-5-5-8-8-8 stitches before marker thread and 4-4-7-7-7-10 stitches after marker thread), work pattern over the next 51-57-60-60-69-78 stitches, bind off the last 5-5-5-8-8-8 stitches. Cut the yarn. Then work front and back piece back and forth separately.

FRONT PIECE:
= 51-57-60-60-69-78 stitches. Begin from right side and work pattern as follows: 1 edge stitch in GARTER STITCH – read explanation above, work pattern as before until 1 stitch remain, 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. AT THE SAME TIME on first row begin decrease in each side -read DECREASE TIP. Decrease 1 stitch in each side every 4th row 4-1-2-3-2-1 times, then every other row 4-10-9-8-10-12 times and finally decrease 2 stitches in each side every other row 2-2-2-2-3-4 times (= 12-15-15-15-18-21 stitches decreased in each side) = 27-27-30-30-33-36 stitches. Slip stitches on a stitch holder and work back piece.

BACK PIECE:
= 51-57-60-60-69-78 stitches. Work as on front piece. When back piece is done, work the neck edge.

NECK EDGE:
Switch to circular size 4.5 mm = US 7. Knit from right side over the 27-27-30-30-33-36 stitches on back piece, cast on 12-12-12-15-15-15 new stitches on needle (= strap), knit from right side over the 27-27-30-30-33-36 stitches on front piece (slip stitches back on needle before they are worked), cast on 12-12-12-15-15-15 new stitches on needle = 78-78-84-90-96-102 stitches. Now work pattern as follows: * Work A.2 over the first 27-27-30-30-33-36 stitches, work A.3 over the next 12-12-12-15-15-15 stitches *, work from *-* 1 more time on round. When diagrams are done vertically, continue with knit over knit and purl over purl until rib measures 4 cm = 1 1/2” from where stitches were cast on for strap. Bind off stitches with knit over knit and purl over purl.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = knit from the right side, purl from the wrong side
symbols = purl from the right side, knit from the wrong side
symbols = between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over, on next row purl yarn overs to make holes.
symbols = knit 2 together
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Post a comment to pattern DROPS 211-10

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Comments / Questions (63)

country flag Hilde wrote:

Hallo liebes Drops-Team. Ich habe Probleme bei den Abnahmen Auf der linken Seite sieht alles ok aus. Auf der rechten Seite (= 1M abheben/1stricken dann überziehen) sieht es unregelmäßig aus. Woran könnte das liegen? Vielen Dank für einen Rat. MfG

14.06.2023 - 21:19

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Hilde, per Ferndiagnose ist es etwas schwierig, einen Fehler zu erkennen.Spannen danach kann helfen, eine regelmäßige Arbeit zu haben. Am besten zeigen Sie Ihrem DROPS Laden Ihr Strickstück; vielleicht kann man Ihnen dort weiterhelfen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

15.06.2023 - 09:03

country flag Claudia Parodi wrote:

Come mai nella spiegazione del corpo a deve seguire solo il diagramma A1 e non anche A2 e A3?

04.05.2023 - 12:51

DROPS Design answered:

I diagrammi A.2 e A.3 vengono utilizzati sul bordo del collo, che ha una lavorazione diversa. Buon lavoro!

04.05.2023 - 17:36

country flag Arlettaz Marlyse Sion Suisse wrote:

J’aimerai obtenir un modele du tricot Pink shell s’il vous plait Merci

23.04.2023 - 10:23

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Arlettaz, vous trouverez les explications en français ici - et la liste des magasins DROPS en Suisse ici. Bon tricot!

24.04.2023 - 10:04

country flag Julia wrote:

Dzień dobry. Jestem początkująca i trochę nie rozumiem odejmowania oczek. Rozumiem, że przy rozmiarze s powinnam co czwarty rząd, cztery razy odjąć po jednym oczku na każdej stronie. Pomyślałam sobie, że żeby wyszło jak na zdjęciu powinnam najpierw zrobić oczko brzegowe, później pięć oczek jak w schemacie, a później odjąć oczko. Ale totalnie nie wygląda to jak wzór na zdjęciu. Wydaje mi się, że całkiem źle zrozumiałam wzór. Pozdrawiam

03.04.2023 - 22:52

DROPS Design answered:

Witaj Julio, w rozmiarze S będziesz zamykać/odejmować: 4 razy 1 oczko z każdej strony co 4 rzędy, dalej 4 razy 1 oczko z każdej strony co 2 rzędy i w końcu 2 razy 2 oczka z każdej strony co 2 rzędy. Jak to robić znajdziesz w części ZAMYKANIE OCZEK (na górze wzoru). Jak wykonać to zamykanie możesz zobaczyć w sekcji video na dole, pod wzorem (kilka filmów na samej górze). W razie problemów pisz. Pozdrawiamy!

04.04.2023 - 08:18

country flag Jackie Adams wrote:

Thank you for your quick response but A 1 implies 2 knits and 1 purl repeated, that doesn't create a lacy texture. Only A2 states yarn overs. Apologies for my misunderstanding of this.

03.04.2023 - 15:08

country flag Jackie Adams wrote:

`I am reading the Pink Shell top on circular needles and am unsure as to what the stitch pattern is. I understand all the decreasing etc, but do not see which stitches are required to create the overall pattern of texture.

02.04.2023 - 16:03

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Jackie, the texture pattern/ stitch pattern is represented in chart A.1, near the measurements schematic. Happy knitting!

02.04.2023 - 22:07

country flag Ghada wrote:

When working the rib on neck edge is it purl,knit,purl,purl,knit,purl ,so two purl and 1 knit? Or 1 purl ,1 knit 1 purl, ,1knit. Meaning rib 1x1 rib or 2x1 rib

18.03.2023 - 23:45

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Ghada, you work: purl1, knit 1, purl 1, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1. Happy knitting!

19.03.2023 - 20:10

country flag Ghada wrote:

Also how do we work the yarn over in the next round using circular needles.

17.03.2023 - 07:36

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Ghada, on the very first row of neck, when casting on the stitches between front and back piece, knit stitches from back and front piece, then work A.2 in the round just as shown in the diagram, this means read every row from the right towards the left, The yarn overs in A.2 will be purled on next round. Happy knitting!

17.03.2023 - 09:07

country flag Ghada wrote:

On first row for neck edge when we join back and front ,which pattern do we use on back & front ?I

15.03.2023 - 08:16

country flag Edda wrote:

Hallo. Ich habe eine Frage zu dem Vorderteil. Wenn ich die Maschen aufnehme, dann liegen sie doch in einer Rückreihe vor. Wie soll ich dann mit einer Hinreihe beginnen? Und wenn ich dann in der Hinreihe bin, wie geht es dann weiter? Das Muster A1 beginnt ja mit nur rechten Maschen. Wie gehe ich dann in der Rückreihe vor? So wie ich das verstanden habe würde man mit einer rechten Masche beginnen und dann zwei linke usw. Würde mich über eine ausführliche Erklärung freuen! Dankeschön

12.01.2023 - 21:22

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Edda, die Verteilungsreihe ist eine Reihe wie 2. Reihe in A.1, bei der nächsten Reihe = Hinreihe stricken Sie wie bei den ungeraden Reihen (1. ,3., usw,) dh alle Maschen werden rechts gestrickt, bei den Rückreihen stricken Sie wie bei den geraden Reihen: die 2 Maschen glatt rechts werden dann links gestrickt und die 3. Masche in A.1 stricken Sie rechts (krausrechte Masche). Viel Spaß beim stricken!

13.01.2023 - 08:41