Strawberry Summer by DROPS Design
Knitted top in DROPS Safran. Piece is knitted bottom up with rib. Size: S - XXXL
Yarn group A
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SIZE:
S - M/L - XL/XXL – XXXL
Finished measurements:
Chest measurements: 88-100-120-134 cm = 34 5/8”-39 3/8”-47 1/4”-52 3/4”
Full length: 50-53-56-59 cm = 19 3/4”-21”-22”-23 1/4”
All measurements in charts are in cm.
Measurements on chart show garment stretched, the top is more narrow because of pattern.
MATERIALS:
DROPS SAFRAN from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
150-200-250-250 g color 57, mauve
KNITTING GAUGE:
24 stitches in width and 32 rows vertically in stockinette stitch = 10 x 10 cm = 4” x 4”.
NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3 mm = US 2,5: Length 60 or 80 cm = 24” and 32” for rib.
Needle size is only a suggestion! If you have too many stitches on 10 cm = 4” switch to a larger needle size. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm = 4” switch to a smaller needle size.
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Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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DROPS Safran 100% Cotton |
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NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
EXPLANATION FOR THE PATTERN:
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GARTER STITCH (back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge vertically = knit 2 rows.
PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.7. Choose diagram for your size (applies to A.2 and A.7). Diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from the right side.
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START THE PIECE HERE:
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TOP - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
Work body in the round on circular needle, from the bottom and up to armholes. Then work back piece and the 2 front pieces separately, back and forth on circular needle until finished measurements. Straps on front piece are fastened to back piece.
BODY:
Cast on 224-256-304-336 stitches on circular needle size 3 mm = US 2,5 with Safran. Work A.1 in the round – insert at the same time 1 marker thread at the beginning of round (= left side when garments is worn), and 1 marker thread after 112-128-152-168 stitches (= right side when garment is worn). Both marker threads is between 2 purl stitches. Move the marker thread upwards when working. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE!
When piece measures 33-34-35-36 cm = 13”-13 3/8”-13 3/4”-14 1/4”, work next round as follows (approx. 1 cm = 3/8” remains until piece is divided mid front, and decrease for armholes):
Work A.2 (= 9-9-13-13 stitches), continue A.1 over the next 42-50-58-66 stitches, work A.3 (= 10 stitches mid front), continue A.1 over the next 42-50-58-66 stitches), work A.2 over the next 18-18-26-26 stitches (= 2 repetitions of 9-9-13-13 stitches – marker thread is between these 2 repetitions), continue A.1 over the next 94-110-126-142 stitches (= back piece), and work A.2 over the remaining 9-9-13-13 stitches. Continue pattern like this until A.2 and A.3 have been worked vertically.
On next round bind off for armholes, i.e. work next round as follows: Bind off 4-4-8-8 stitches for armhole, work 5 stitches in GARTER STITCH – read explanation above, continue A.1 over the next 42-50-58-66 stitches, work 10 stitches in garter stitch (= mid front), continue A.1 over the next 42-50-58-66 stitches, work 5 stitches in garter stitch, bind off 8-8-16-16 stitches for armhole, work 5 stitches in garter stitch, continue A.1 over the next 94-110-126-142 stitches, work 5 stitches in garter stitch, and bind off the remaining 4-4-8-8 stitches for armhole. Cut the yarn. Finish back piece and front pieces separately.
BACK PIECE:
= 104-120-136-152 stitches. Begin from wrong side and work 1 row in rib as before with 5 edge stitches in garter stitch in each side.
Continue to work in rib with 5 edge stitches in garter stitch in each side while AT THE SAME TIME decreasing for armholes on every row from right side as explained below. I.e. work first row from right side as follows: Work A.4 (= 13 stitches), continue rib as before until 13 stitches remain on row, finish with A.5 (= 13 stitches).
Continue pattern like this until A.4 and A.5 have been worked 4-4-5-6 times in total vertically (= 16-16-20-24 stitches decreased in each side) = 72-88-96-104 stitches remain.
Work 3 ridges back and forth over all stitches. Bind off - make sure that the bind-off edge is not too tight. Back piece measures approx. 11-11-14-16 cm = 4 3/8”-4 3/8”-5 1/2”-6 1/4” from where piece was divided for front piece and bac piece.
FRONT PIECE:
= 104-120-136-152 stitches. Divide the piece mid front and slip half the stitches on 1 stitch holder or extra needle. Then work first part as explained below.
PART-1:
= 52-60-68-76 stitches. Begin from wrong side and work 1 row in rib as before with 5 edge stitches in garter stitch in each side.
Insert 1 marker between the 2 middle stitches on row (= between 2 knit stitch seen from right side). Marker indicates the middle.
Continue to work in rib with 5 edge stitches in garter stitch in each side while at the same time decreasing on each side of the middle as explained below. I.e. work first row from right side as follows: 5 edge stitches in garter stitch, work rib as before until 7 stitches remain before marker, work A.6 (= 14 stitches), work rib as before until 5 stitches remain on row, and finish with 5 edge stitches in garter stitch. Continue pattern like this, and repeat A.6 vertically until 34 stitches remain on row – finish after 1 row from wrong side.
Now work A.7 over these 34 stitches. When A.7 has been worked, 12-12-16-16 stitches remain on needle for strap, and front piece measures approx. 11-13-16-18 cm = 4 3/8”-5 1/8”-6 1/4”-7” from where piece was divided for front and back piece. Work strap as explained below.
STRAP:
= 12-12-16-16 stitches. Work in garter stitch back and forth until the strap measures approx. 10-12-10-10 cm = 4”-4 3/4”-4”-4” – try the top on and work to desired length, strap should continue over the shoulder and down to back piece. Bind off.
PART-2:
Slip the 52-60-68-76 stitches from stitch holder or extra needle back on circular needle size 3 mm = US 2,5, and work part-2 the same way as part-1. Then work strap the same way as on part-1. Bind off.
ASSEMBLY:
Fasten straps to back piece - begin at the edge in each side and sew stitch too stitch. Cut and fasten the thread.
Diagram
All measurements in charts are in cm.
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= knit from the right side, purl from the wrong side |
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= purl from the right side, knit from the wrong side |
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= purl 2 twisted together |
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= purl 2 together |
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= knit 2 together |
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= slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked |
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= marker is between 2 knit stitches (seen from right side) |
Do you need help with this pattern?
Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 211-18) for measurements and calculations.
Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.
1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?
Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.
The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.
The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.
3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?
The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.
Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.
See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?
4) How do I use the yarn converter?
At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).
If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.
5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?
The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.
Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?
Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.
The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.
Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.
9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.
When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.
When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.
When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.
When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.
When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.
The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?
Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.
The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?
Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.
14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?
It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.
See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)
15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?
To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.
See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately
16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?
Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.
Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!
17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?
Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.
See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open
18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?
Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.
See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?
19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?
Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.
It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.
The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.
20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?
If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.
Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.
21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?
All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.
Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding
Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:
1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.
2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.
3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.
4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.
22) Where on the garment is the length measured?
The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.
See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing
23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?
The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.
Comments / Questions (91)
From the #dropsfan gallery
Strawberry Summer
211-18 Strawberry Summer
Strawberry Summer
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We reserve the right to withdraw the permission for use of our patterns at any time, notwithstanding the reason.
With over 30 years in knitting and crochet design, DROPS Design offers one of the most extensive collections of free patterns on the internet - translated to 17 languages. As of today we count 268 catalogs and 9976 patterns - 9932 of which are translated into English (US/in).
We work hard to bring you the best knitting and crochet have to offer, inspiration and advice as well as great quality yarns at incredible prices! Would you like to use our patterns for other than personal use? You can read what you are allowed to do in the Copyright text at the bottom of all our patterns. Happy crafting!
Jeg kan ikke få bagstykket til at se rigtig ud. Skal kantmaskerne regnes udenfor diagrammet? Jeg er gået ud fra, at de var ned i A4 og A5.
Modele drops 211/18, les diminutions en A6: le schema be decompte pas les mailles: rang1 a 8 il y a toujours 7 mailles a tricoter or si on enlève 8 mailles il n’en reste que 3 +3… donc comment appliquer le schema? Merci
DROPS Design
20.07.2021 kl. 15:28:
Bonjour Mme Masset, le diagramme A.6 montre comment diminuer de part et d'autre de (1 m env, 2 m end, 1 m env) tout en continuant les côtes de chaque côté, autrement dit, les côtes vont se décaler vers le milieu, en diagonale, commencez A.6 1 m avant à chaque nouvelle diminution (à chaque rang) et A.6 se terminera 1 m après la fois précédente à chaque fois. Vous allez ainsi "manger" les mailles en côtes au niveau de la m env avant les 2 m end et après la m env, après les 2 m end. Bon tricot!Die Strickschriften A 4 und A5 verwirren mehr als dass sie hilfreich sind. Vor allem Rückreihen zeigen die Maschen so, wie sie von der Vorderseite aussehen sollen. Am besten die Maschen stricken wie sie erscheinen. mir hat das jedenfalls mehr geholfen.
Need one more skein for S size.
Comment realiser le dos schema 4 et 5 pour garder les cotes 2/2… maille endroit sur endroit= endroit du tricot ou maille endroit du rang précédent? Tout se decale chez moi…
DROPS Design
19.07.2021 kl. 08:29:
Bonjour Mme Masset, tricotez les mailles des côtes comme elles se présentent et tricotez les mailles de A.4 /A.5 comme indiqué dans le diagramme (x = à tricoter à l'endroit sur l'envers et les cases blanches à tricoter à l'endroit sur l'envers), les 5 premières mailles de A.4 et les 5 dernières mailles de A.5 sont des mailles au point mousse (à l'endroit sur l'endroit et à l'endroit sur l'envers). Bon tricot!Hi, I just knitted this today and found upon trying the garment on, that the top of the back piece (where the 3 ridges of garter stitch are) do not lie properly against the body and instead, warp slightly in the middle section and float. Is this normal?
DROPS Design
08.07.2021 kl. 21:32:
Dear Audrey, not really, it should be somewhat tighter around the breasts and a little looser around the wais, bup no warping there. Happy Stitching!Jeg har forsøgt at strikke bagstykket flere gange, men synes ikke jeg kan få det til at passe sammen. Har snakket med en anden som har samme problem. Kan der være en fejl i opskriften? Synes heller ikke de 7 masker der strikkes først i diagrammerne passer med den lille retkant der vises på billederne af toppen (ryg)
DROPS Design
11.06.2021 kl. 11:00:
Hej Kirstine, hvilken størrelse? Hvor er du i opskriften? Hvor mange masker har du? Hvilket diagram skal du strikke?Nie zgadza mi się ilość oczek: np. piszecie że tył zamknąć, gdy zostaje 72 oczka, a widać na foto że tył ma ok. 50 oczek, czy mam rację?
DROPS Design
07.06.2021 kl. 18:23:
Witaj Iwono, na szczęście mam już ten sweterek w najmniejszym rozmiarze więc szybko sprawdzam - wg wzoru jest 72 oczka na górze tyłu i wszystko się zgadza. Na zdjęciu jest wykonany mniejszy sweterek niż S. Pozdrawiamy i miłej pracy :)Zu meiner vorherigen Frage: Leider hilft mir Ihre Auskunft nicht. Ich hatte ja am Rückteil auch keine Probleme mit der Strickschrift und am Abnehmen liegt es auch nicht. Aber wenn Sie A.6 ansehen, werden die mittleren beiden Maschen laut Strickschrift in der Hin- und Rückreihe rechts gestrickt- wird also kraus rechts. Das stimmt ja aber nicht..... Bin noch genauso ratlos wie bisher.
DROPS Design
02.06.2021 kl. 13:21:
Liebe Frau Zeller, die 2 mittleren Maschen in A.6 sind rechte Maschen vom Bündchen, die werden rechts bei den Hin-Reihen und links bei den Rückreihen (Krausrechts würde rechts bei Hin sowie Rückreihen). Beim Vorderteil stricken Sie im Rippenmuster wie zuvor, und gleichzeitig nehmen Sie beidseitig von den 2 mittleren rechten Maschen wie in A.6 gezeigt. Hilft es Ihnen besser?Ich habe ein Problem mit A.6. Habe das Top bis zur Teilung Vorderteil fertig. Wenn ich nach der Anleitung genau mit den Hin- und Rückreihen (Hinreihe von rechts nach links, Rückreihe von links nach rechts) stricke, entsteht ein krauses Kuddelmuddel und keine schöne rechte Linie, die zum Träger führt. Sind bei A.6 nur Hinreihen angegeben? Oder muss man es anders lesen? Bin wirklich eine geübte Strickerin, aber hier habe ich einen Knoten im Hirn. Danke für schnelle Hilfe.
DROPS Design
02.06.2021 kl. 07:36:
Liebe Frau Zeller, alle Reihen sind in A.6 gezeigt, dh genauso wie bei allen anderen Diagrammen. Vorderteil beginnt mit einer Rückreihe und die 2 mittleren Maschen vom 1. Teil sollen in der Mitte sein = wo Sie die Markierung eingesetzt haben, dh die Abnahmen werden bei den Hinreihen gestrickt (mit 2 M links zs/2 M links verschränkt zs beidseitig von den 2 Mittleren rechte Maschen). Kann das Ihnen helfen?