DROPS / 211 / 18

Strawberry Summer by DROPS Design

Knitted top in DROPS Safran. Piece is knitted bottom up with rib. Size: S - XXXL

  • Strawberry Summer / DROPS 211-18 - Knitted top in DROPS Safran. Piece is knitted bottom up with rib. Size: S - XXXL
  • Strawberry Summer / DROPS 211-18 - Knitted top in DROPS Safran. Piece is knitted bottom up with rib. Size: S - XXXL
  • Strawberry Summer / DROPS 211-18 - Knitted top in DROPS Safran. Piece is knitted bottom up with rib. Size: S - XXXL
  • Strawberry Summer / DROPS 211-18 - Knitted top in DROPS Safran. Piece is knitted bottom up with rib. Size: S - XXXL
  • Strawberry Summer / DROPS 211-18 - Knitted top in DROPS Safran. Piece is knitted bottom up with rib. Size: S - XXXL
DROPS design: Pattern e-302
Yarn group A
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SIZE:
S - M/L - XL/XXL – XXXL

Finished measurements:
Chest measurements: 88-100-120-134 cm = 34 5/8”-39 3/8”-47 1/4”-52 3/4”
Full length: 50-53-56-59 cm = 19 3/4”-21”-22”-23 1/4”

All measurements in charts are in cm.
Measurements on chart show garment stretched, the top is more narrow because of pattern.

MATERIALS:
DROPS SAFRAN from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
150-200-250-250 g color 57, mauve

KNITTING GAUGE:
24 stitches in width and 32 rows vertically in stockinette stitch = 10 x 10 cm = 4” x 4”.

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3 mm = US 2,5: Length 60 or 80 cm = 24” and 32” for rib.
Needle size is only a suggestion! If you have too many stitches on 10 cm = 4” switch to a larger needle size. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm = 4” switch to a smaller needle size.

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Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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100% Cotton
from 2.35 $ /50g
DROPS Safran uni colour DROPS Safran uni colour 2.35 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
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needles DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 7.05$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
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EXPLANATION FOR THE PATTERN:

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GARTER STITCH (back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge vertically = knit 2 rows.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.7. Choose diagram for your size (applies to A.2 and A.7). Diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from the right side.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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TOP - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
Work body in the round on circular needle, from the bottom and up to armholes. Then work back piece and the 2 front pieces separately, back and forth on circular needle until finished measurements. Straps on front piece are fastened to back piece.

BODY:
Cast on 224-256-304-336 stitches on circular needle size 3 mm = US 2,5 with Safran. Work A.1 in the round – insert at the same time 1 marker thread at the beginning of round (= left side when garments is worn), and 1 marker thread after 112-128-152-168 stitches (= right side when garment is worn). Both marker threads is between 2 purl stitches. Move the marker thread upwards when working. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE!
When piece measures 33-34-35-36 cm = 13”-13 3/8”-13 3/4”-14 1/4”, work next round as follows (approx. 1 cm = 3/8” remains until piece is divided mid front, and decrease for armholes):
Work A.2 (= 9-9-13-13 stitches), continue A.1 over the next 42-50-58-66 stitches, work A.3 (= 10 stitches mid front), continue A.1 over the next 42-50-58-66 stitches), work A.2 over the next 18-18-26-26 stitches (= 2 repetitions of 9-9-13-13 stitches – marker thread is between these 2 repetitions), continue A.1 over the next 94-110-126-142 stitches (= back piece), and work A.2 over the remaining 9-9-13-13 stitches. Continue pattern like this until A.2 and A.3 have been worked vertically.
On next round bind off for armholes, i.e. work next round as follows: Bind off 4-4-8-8 stitches for armhole, work 5 stitches in GARTER STITCH – read explanation above, continue A.1 over the next 42-50-58-66 stitches, work 10 stitches in garter stitch (= mid front), continue A.1 over the next 42-50-58-66 stitches, work 5 stitches in garter stitch, bind off 8-8-16-16 stitches for armhole, work 5 stitches in garter stitch, continue A.1 over the next 94-110-126-142 stitches, work 5 stitches in garter stitch, and bind off the remaining 4-4-8-8 stitches for armhole. Cut the yarn. Finish back piece and front pieces separately.

BACK PIECE:
= 104-120-136-152 stitches. Begin from wrong side and work 1 row in rib as before with 5 edge stitches in garter stitch in each side.
Continue to work in rib with 5 edge stitches in garter stitch in each side while AT THE SAME TIME decreasing for armholes on every row from right side as explained below. I.e. work first row from right side as follows: Work A.4 (= 13 stitches), continue rib as before until 13 stitches remain on row, finish with A.5 (= 13 stitches).
Continue pattern like this until A.4 and A.5 have been worked 4-4-5-6 times in total vertically (= 16-16-20-24 stitches decreased in each side) = 72-88-96-104 stitches remain.
Work 3 ridges back and forth over all stitches. Bind off - make sure that the bind-off edge is not too tight. Back piece measures approx. 11-11-14-16 cm = 4 3/8”-4 3/8”-5 1/2”-6 1/4” from where piece was divided for front piece and bac piece.

FRONT PIECE:
= 104-120-136-152 stitches. Divide the piece mid front and slip half the stitches on 1 stitch holder or extra needle. Then work first part as explained below.

PART-1:
= 52-60-68-76 stitches. Begin from wrong side and work 1 row in rib as before with 5 edge stitches in garter stitch in each side.
Insert 1 marker between the 2 middle stitches on row (= between 2 knit stitch seen from right side). Marker indicates the middle.
Continue to work in rib with 5 edge stitches in garter stitch in each side while at the same time decreasing on each side of the middle as explained below. I.e. work first row from right side as follows: 5 edge stitches in garter stitch, work rib as before until 7 stitches remain before marker, work A.6 (= 14 stitches), work rib as before until 5 stitches remain on row, and finish with 5 edge stitches in garter stitch. Continue pattern like this, and repeat A.6 vertically until 34 stitches remain on row – finish after 1 row from wrong side.
Now work A.7 over these 34 stitches. When A.7 has been worked, 12-12-16-16 stitches remain on needle for strap, and front piece measures approx. 11-13-16-18 cm = 4 3/8”-5 1/8”-6 1/4”-7” from where piece was divided for front and back piece. Work strap as explained below.

STRAP:
= 12-12-16-16 stitches. Work in garter stitch back and forth until the strap measures approx. 10-12-10-10 cm = 4”-4 3/4”-4”-4” – try the top on and work to desired length, strap should continue over the shoulder and down to back piece. Bind off.

PART-2:
Slip the 52-60-68-76 stitches from stitch holder or extra needle back on circular needle size 3 mm = US 2,5, and work part-2 the same way as part-1. Then work strap the same way as on part-1. Bind off.

ASSEMBLY:
Fasten straps to back piece - begin at the edge in each side and sew stitch too stitch. Cut and fasten the thread.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = knit from the right side, purl from the wrong side
symbols = purl from the right side, knit from the wrong side
symbols = purl 2 twisted together
symbols = purl 2 together
symbols = knit 2 together
symbols = slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked
symbols = marker is between 2 knit stitches (seen from right side)
diagram
diagram
diagram
signature

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 211-18) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (81)

country flag Anne 22.04.2021 - 13:43:

Ik wil graag beginnen met dit breiwerkje alleen begrijp ik het patroon nog niet helemaal. Ik dacht dat je de telpatronen naast elkaar kon leggen dus van de eerste naald van a1 > naar eerste naald van a2 gaat. Maar als ik de uitleg erbij lees, lijkt het alsof ik eerst alle naalden van a1 moet breien voordat ik naar naald a2 kan gaan. Klopt dit? Daarna snap ik niet dat ik in de ronde gaan breinen maar daarna los nog de achterkant moet breien. Kunt u dit toelichten?

user icon DROPS Design 26.04.2021 kl. 09:00:

Dag Anne,

Het lijf wordt van onder naar boven gebreid. Eerst brei je in de rondte en je herhaalt eerst steeds A.1 in de breedte en in de hoogte, waardoor je dus een soort boordsteek breit. Als je bij de armsgaten bent wordt het werk verdeeld en brei je de panden apart van elkaar heen en weer.

country flag Mendy 08.04.2021 - 12:13:

Ben nu bezig met de achterkant vanaf het te delen stuk. Maatxl/xxl Maar als ik 5 x a.4 en a.5 in de hoogte brei kom ik nooit aan de ongeveer 14 cm.. (A.4 is 16 naalden hoog, x 5 is 80 naalden! 32 naalden is 10 cm dus 80 nld is dan 25 cm...) Reken ik het niet goed?

user icon DROPS Design 11.04.2021 kl. 13:50:

Dag Mendy,

A.4 en A.5 bestaat uit 8 naalden. Als je deze 5 keer in de hoogte breit, heb je 40 naalden. Daarnaast haak je 1 naald boorsteek voordat je begint met A.4 en A.5 en 3 ribbels als je daarmee klaar bent. In totaal 46 naalden wat overeenkomt met ongeveer 14 cm.

country flag Susana 02.04.2021 - 21:25:

Se puede tener con 2 agujas en vez de con circulares? Como tendría que hacerlo?

user icon DROPS Design 06.04.2021 kl. 20:10:

Hola Susana, si, es possible. Mira la leccion drops AQUI. Buen trabajo!

country flag Lykke 28.03.2021 - 09:23:

Jeg strikket str M Jeg er nået til forstykket, har strikket A6 tre gange og ifølge opskriften skal det være 34 masker på pinden, men der er 36? Ifølge opskriften starter jeg med 60 masker. Når der er strikket A6 tre gange, er der taget 24 masker ind=36m tilbage og ikke 34??? Pft

user icon DROPS Design 12.04.2021 kl. 15:06:

Hei Lykke. I oppskriften står de at du skal gjenta A.6 til du har 34 masker på pinnen. Du må da strikke A.6 3 ganger i høyden + 1. og 2. rad av A.6 1 gang til (for å avslutt etter 1 pinne fra vrangen). mvh DROPS design

country flag Léa 09.03.2021 - 14:02:

Bonjour le diagrame A.1 cest bien une côte 2-2? merci de votre réponse

user icon DROPS Design 09.03.2021 kl. 14:30:

Bonjour Léa, le diagramme A.2 consiste en 3 côtes mousse (= au 1er tour de A.2 tricotez les mailles à l'endroit, au 2ème tour, à l'envers et répétez ces 2 tours 3 fois au total (= 3 côtes mousse). Bon tricot!

country flag Emilia Theorin 05.02.2021 - 23:10:

Hi, I’m knitting in size small, but I’m having some issues with getting the ribbing to line up. After knitting A2 over the first 9 stitches (starting with the purled one after the marker) my A1 sections don’t line up with my previous ribbing? I get 1 purled followed by two knitted stitches on top of two knitted followed by one purled stitch. The reference picture doesn’t look as if this is supposed to be happening? Can you please help me figure out what is wrong?

user icon DROPS Design 08.02.2021 kl. 07:55:

Dear Mrs Theorin, after you work 9 sts as in A.2 you continue A.1 over the next stitches, ie if the next stitch is a knit stitch in A.1 just continue A.1 starting with a knit stitch (= the stitches in A.1 should be now worked K over K and P over P so that they fit the previous rounds). Hope this helps. Happy knitting!

country flag Maritza 02.01.2021 - 05:21:

Surge el problema luego de la sisa hacia arriba comenzando los digramas ! Ya no va en circular. Se teje individualmente. Pero el diagrama no coincide con el resultado!!!!!

user icon DROPS Design 02.01.2021 kl. 16:50:

Ver la respuesta abajo

country flag Maritza 02.01.2021 - 05:03:

Hola en el diagrama de las disminuciones no dan los puntos! Es solo la lectura por el derecho?? Como se teje la fila del revés??

user icon DROPS Design 02.01.2021 kl. 16:48:

Hola Maritza. Lee nuestra lección: Cómo leer los diagramas de punto <>. Cuando trabajamos en redondo todas las filas se trabajan por el lado derecho y el diagrama siempre se lee de derecha a izquierda. Cuando trabajamos de ida y vuelta (a partir de la sisa), las filas impares se trabajan por el lado derecho y el diagrama se lee de derecha a izquierda y las filas pares se trabajan por el lado revés y el diagrama se lee de izquierda a derecha.

country flag Maritza 22.12.2020 - 21:32:

Hola necesito que me digan si el patrón se teje por ambos lados comenzando en fila derecha. O solo se va ejecutando el diseño por el derecho, y corridas revés como se presente en punto??? Gracias

user icon DROPS Design 26.12.2020 kl. 18:23:

Hola Maritza. La prenda se trabaja en redondo (siempre por el lado derecho) hasta la sisa. A partir de la sisa se trabajan la espalda y el delantero por separado de ida y vuelta.

country flag Pia Berglund 09.11.2020 - 10:04:

Ska nu sticka A7 men då kommer dom 2 mittersta maskorna på aviga maskorna ?

user icon DROPS Design 17.11.2020 kl. 09:29:

Hej Pia, De 2 midterste masker i selve DEL-1 skal være ret, det er dem som fortsætter hele vejen op. God fornøjelse!

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