DROPS / 212 / 24

Sweet Melody Cardigan by DROPS Design

Knitted jacket with short sleeves in DROPS Melody. Piece is knitted top down with raglan. Size XS–XXL.

DROPS design: Pattern ml-050
Yarn group D
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SIZE:
XS - S - M - L - XL – XXL

Finished measurements:
Chest measurements: 84-94-100-110-124-134 = 33”-37”-39 3/8”-43 3/8”-48 3/4”-52 3/4”
Full length: 40-42-44-46-48-50 cm = 15 3/4”-16 1/2”-17 1/4”-18”-19”-19 3/4”

All measurements in charts are in cm.

MATERIALS:
DROPS MELODY from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group D)
100-150-150-150-150-150 g color 17, strong pink

KNITTING GAUGE:
12 stitches in width and 14 rows vertically in stockinette stitch = 10 x 10 cm = 4” x 4”.

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 8 mm = US 11
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 8 mm = US 11: Length 40 and 80 cm = 16” and 32” for stockinette stitch.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 6 mm = US 10
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 6 mm = US 10: Length 80 cm = 32” for rib.
Needle size is only a suggestion! If you have too many stitches on 10 cm = 4” switch to a larger needle size. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm = 4” switch to a smaller needle size.

DROPS MOTHER-OF-PEARL BUTTON ARCHED (white), NO 522: 5-5-5-6-6-6 pieces

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 5 ft 7 in and uses size S or M. If you are making a sweater, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

71% Alpaca, 25% Wool, 4% Polyamide
from 6.30 $ /50g
DROPS Melody uni colour DROPS Melody uni colour 6.30 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
Order
DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 12.60$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
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EXPLANATION FOR THE PATTERN:

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GARTER STITCH (back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge vertically = knit 2 rows.

BAND STITCHES:
The outermost 5 stitches in each side towards mid front are band stitches. Work these as follows from right side: 1 stitch in garter stitch, 1 stitch in stockinette stitch, 1 stitch in garter stitch, 1 stitch in stockinette stitch, 1 stitch in garter stitch. Continue with garter stitch over garter stitch and stockinette stitch over stockinette stitch.

INCREASE/DECREASE TIP (evenly):
To calculate how to increase/decrease evenly, use the total number of stitches on row (e.g. 65 stitches), minus bands (e.g. 10 stitches) and divide the remaining stitches by number of increases/decreases to be done (e.g. 5) = 11.
In this example increase by making 1 yarn over after every 11th stitch, and do not increase over bands. On next row work yarn over twisted to avoid holes To decrease in this example knit every 10th and 11th stitch together.

RAGLAN:
Increase for raglan in every transition between front/back piece and sleeves as explained below. All increases are done from right side and increase every 4th row (i.e. on every other row from right side) as explained in pattern.
INCREASE 4 STITCHES AS FOLLOWS:
Knit 1 in stitch below stitch with marker (raglan stitch), do not slip stitches off the needle, make 1 yarn over on right needle, knit 1 in same stitch, but wait to slip off the needle, make 1 yarn over on right needle and knit 1 in same stitch, then slip the stitch off the left needle (= 4 stitches increased).
Insert 1 marker in the middle of these 5 stitches (for next increase).
INCREASE 2 STITCHES AS FOLLOWS:
Knit 1 in stitch below stitch with marker (raglan stitch), do not slip stitches off the needle, make 1 yarn over on right needle, knit 1 in same stitch, then slip the stitch off the left needle (= 2 stitches increased).
Insert 1 marker in the middle of these 3 stitches (for next increase - only applies to size L).

DECREASE TIP (applies to sides on body and mid under sleeves):
Decrease 1 stitch on each side of marker thread as follows: Work until 3 stitches remain before marker thread, knit 2 together, knit 2 stitches (marker thread is between these stitches), slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked (= 2 stitches decreased by marker).

BUTTONHOLES:
Decrease for buttonholes on right band (when garment is worn). Decrease from right side when 4 stitches remain on row as follows: Make 1 yarn over, knit the next 2 stitches together, finish with 1 stitch in stockinette stitch and finish with 1 stitch in garter stitch. On next row (wrong side), purl the yarn over to make a hole.
Decrease first buttonhole when neck edge measures approx. 1½-2 cm = 1/2”-3/4”. Then bind off the next 4-4-4-5-5-5 buttonholes approx. 9-9½-10-8-9-9 cm = 3 1/2”-3 3/4”-4”-3 1/8”-3 1/2”-3 1/2” apart.

BIND-OFF TIP:
To avoid a tight bind-off edge you may use a larger needle size.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JACKET - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
Work neck edge and yoke back and forth on circular needle from mid front, work top down. Now divide yoke for body and sleeves. Work body back and forth on circular needle from mid front, top down. Work sleeves in the round on double pointed needles/short circular needle, top down.

NECK EDGE:
Cast on 65-67-69-73-75-77 stitches (including 5 band stitches in each side towards mid front) on circular needle size 6 mm = US 10 with Melody. Purl 1 row (= wrong side). Work next row as follows from right side: Work 5 BAND STITCHES - read explanation above, * knit 1, purl 1 *, work from *-* until 6 stitches remain on row, knit 1 and finish with 5 band stitches as explained above. Continue rib like this for 4 cm = 1 1/2” – remember BUTTONHOLES on right band – read explanation above.
When rib is done, knit 1 row from right side while at the same time increasing 5-7-9-5-7-5 stitches evenly - read DECREASE/INCREASE TIP = 70-74-78-78-82-82 stitches.
Insert 1 marker after band, at the beginning of row mid front. Measure yoke from this marker!
Switch to circular needle size 8 mm = US 11 and purl 1 row from wrong side (purl yarn overs in increase twisted and continue bands as before). Then work yoke as explained below.

YOKE:
Insert 4 markers in the piece as explained below. Use markers when increasing for raglan.
Count 14-15-16-16-17-17 stitches (= front piece), insert 1 marker in next stitch, count 10 stitches (= sleeve), insert 1 marker in next stitch, count 18-20-22-22-24-24 stitches (= back piece), insert 1 marker in next stitch, count 10 stitches (= sleeve), insert 1 marker in next stitch. There are 14-15-16-16-17-17 stitches after last marker on front piece.
Now work and increase for raglan as explained below:
Begin from right side and work in stockinette stitch back and forth with 5 band stitches in each side as before. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE!
AT THE SAME TIME on first row from right side increase for RAGLAN – read explanation above. I.e. increase first 4 stitches in every stitch with marker (= 16 stitches in total increased on row).
Continue like this and increase for raglan on every 4th row (i.e. every other row from right side) 5-6-7-7-9-9 times in total vertically = 150-170-190-190-226-226 stitches.
Continue with increase every 4th row, but now increase only 2 stitches in every stitch with marker, as explained above (= 8 stitches in total increased on row). Increase 2 stitches at every marker 1-1-1-2-0-1 times in total vertically. After last increase there are 158-178-198-206-226-234 stitches on needle.

Continue with stockinette with 5 band stitches in each side as before until piece measures 19-21-23-25-27-29 cm = 7 1/2”-8 1/4”-9”-9 3/4”-10 5/8”-11 3/8” from marker by the neck.
Now divide yoke for body and sleeves. I.e. work next row as follows: Work 27-30-32-34-38-40 stitches as before (= front piece), slip the next 30-34-40-40-42-42 stitches on 1 stitch holder for sleeve, cast on 6-6-6-8-8-10 new stitches on row (= in the side under sleeve), work 44-50-54-58-66-70 stitches as before (= back piece), slip the next 30-34-40-40-42-42 stitches on 1 stitch holder for sleeve, cast on 6-6-6-8-8-10 new stitch on needle (= in the side under sleeve), work 27-30-32-34-38-40 stitches as before (= front piece). Finish body and sleeves separately. NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE!

BODY:
= 110-122-130-142-158-170 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread after 30-33-35-38-42-45 stitches in from each side (= in the side of body). There are 50-56-60-66-74-80 stitches between marker threads on back piece. Move the marker threads upwards when working; they are used when decreasing in the sides later.
Continue back and forth in stockinette stitch and 5 band stitches in each side towards mid front as before.
When piece measures 4 cm = 1 1/2” from division in all sizes, decrease 1 stitch on each side of both marker threads - read DECREASE TIP (= 4 stitches decreased). Repeat decrease when piece measures 8 cm = 3 1/8” from division = 102-114-122-134-150-162 stitches.
Work until piece measures 13 cm = 5 1/8” from division (approx. 4 cm = 1 1/2” remain until finished measurements, try the jacket on and work to desired length).
Switch to circular needle size 6 mm = US 10. Knit 1 row from right side while increasing 5-5-7-7-7-9 stitches evenly - remember INCREASE/DECREASE TIP = 107-119-129-141-157-171 stitches.
Work next row as follows from wrong side: 5 band stitches as before, * purl 1, knit 1 *, work from *-* until 6 stitches remain on needle, purl 1 and finish with 5 band stitches as before. Continue rib like this for 4 cm = 1 1/2”. Bind off stitches with knit over knit and purl over purl - read BIND OFF TIP! Jacket measures approx. 40-42-44-46-48-50 cm = 15 3/4”-16 1/2”-17 1/4”-18”-19”-19 3/4” from shoulder and down.

SLEEVES:
Slip the 30-34-40-40-42-42 stitches from stitch holder in one side of piece on double pointed needles or short circular needle size 8 mm = US 11, and pick in addition up 1 stitch in each of the 6-6-6-8-8-10 stitches under sleeve = 36-40-46-48-50-52 stitches.
Insert 1 marker thread in the middle of the 6-6-6-8-8-10 stitches under sleeve and move the marker thread upwards when working. Use marker later when decreasing mid under sleeve. Begin round at the marker thread and work stockinette stitch in the round.
When sleeve measures 2 cm = 3/4” from division in all sizes, decrease 2 stitches mid under sleeve - read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every 5-3-½-½-½-½ cm = 2”-1 1/8”-1/8”-1/8”-1/8”-1/8” 2-3-5-5-5-5 times in total = 32-34-36-38-40-42 stitches.
Work until sleeve measures 10-9-7-6-6-6 cm = 4”-3 1/2”-2 3/4”-2 3/8”-2 3/8”-2 3/8”- from division (approx. 4 cm = 1 1/2” remain until finished measurements, try the jacket on and work to desired length). NOTE! Shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of wider neck and longer yoke.
Knit 1 round while decreasing 2 stitches evenly = 30-32-34-36-38-40 stitches.
Switch to double pointed needles size 6 mm = US 10. Work rib in the round = knit 1/purl 1 for 4 cm = 1 1/2”. Bind off with knit over knit and purl over purl - remember BIND-OFF TIP. Sleeve measures approx. 14-13-11-10-10-10 cm = 5 1/2”-5 1/8”-4 3/8”-4”-4”-4” from division. Work the other sleeve the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the buttons on to the left band.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.


Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 212-24) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (16)

Anna Maria Mony De Kerloy 07.10.2020 - 20:53:

I would love to have knitted this pattern but your instructions are very hard to follow. Why not write the pattern in the style of all other knitting patterns that are easy to follow.

DROPS Design 08.10.2020 kl. 11:08:

Dear Mrs Mony De Kerloy; The DROPS patterns are knitted and crocheted by thousands and thousands of people  around the world. We understand however that in certain countries, with different knitting/crochet traditions than Scandinavia, our patterns might be written in a way that differs from what some are used to. But of course we want everyone to understand our patterns, so that’s why we have created an extensive library of tutorial videos as well as step by step lessons that explain how to follow the techniques we use and how to read the diagrams in our patterns. Give them a try!

Kirsti Kleppe 25.09.2020 - 17:48:

De ytterste 5 maskene er stolpe masker. Disse strikkes med 1 maske rille, 1 maske glattstrikk osv. j står det i oppskriften. Jeg skjønner ikke hvordan det skal strikke det. Rille strikkes jo rett på alle pinner, så hvordan strikker jeg glatt strikk da?

DROPS Design 28.09.2020 kl. 11:01:

Hei Kirsti. Rillemaskene strikkes rett både fra retten og fra vrangen, men de maskene som skal strikkes glattstrikk, strikkes rett fra retten og vrang fra vrangen. Blir nesten som er vrangbord med 1 rett/1 vrang, men annenhver vrangmaske i høyden blir rett, dette skaper en fin struktur. God Fornøyelse!

Ivonne 28.06.2020 - 09:49:

Je ne suis pas habituée aux aiguilles circulaires, je me suis lancée et le résultat est magnifique. Vos explications sont claires et tous les modèles présentés sur votre site sont très beaux.

Magdalena 11.06.2020 - 19:27:

Witam serdecznie, chodzi o wykończenie dekoltu-rozmiar s. Należy nabrać 67 oczek. W tym 5 oczek z obu stron na obszycie przodu. Czy to znaczy ze mam nabrac o 10 oczek wiecej czyli 77? Pozdrawiam, Magdalena

DROPS Design 12.06.2020 kl. 13:36:

Witaj Magdaleno! To już jest razem z obszyciem, nabierasz więc 67 oczek. Pozdrawiamy!

Anna 18.05.2020 - 10:52:

Buongiorno, mi sembra che nelle spiegazioni dello sprone ci sia un errore nel n. di maglie da separare con i marcapunti. Per la taglia L viene indicata la seguente sequenza: 16-10-22-10-16. Facendo il calcolo vengono 74 maglie complessive e invece dovrebbero esserne 78. Potete aiutarmi a capire se è un errore o una mia cattiva interpretazione? Grazie.

DROPS Design 18.05.2020 kl. 11:30:

Buongiorno Anna, il numero di maglie tra i segnapunti è corretto, probabilmente il suo dubbio deriva dal fatto che i segnapunti vanno messi NELLA maglia, non dopo la maglia, quindi deve contare 4 maglie in più. Buon lavoro!

Sabrina 24.04.2020 - 10:59:

.... Non è possibile accedere a questo modello... Help us please!!!!

Di Donato Isabelle 20.04.2020 - 22:44:

J’aimerais tricoter ce modèle mais je suis incapable de Le télécharger. Merci! Isabelle

Louise-Rachel Dion 10.04.2020 - 13:57:

J’aimerais tricoter ce modèle mais je suis incapable de Le télécharger. Merci! Louise-Rachel

Tilly 08.04.2020 - 23:54:

Même problème pour accéder au patron ! Merci pour votre aide.

Frossard Marie Agnès 03.04.2020 - 11:27:

Trop beau modèle ça donne envie de tricoter merci

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