Catch the Wind by DROPS Design
Knitted top with raglan and short sleeves in DROPS Safran. The piece is worked top down with lace pattern. Sizes XS - XXL.
Yarn group A
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SIZES:
XS - S - M - L - XL - XXL
MATERIALS:
DROPS SAFRAN from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
250-250-250-300-300-350 g colour 18, off white
KNITTING TENSION:
24 stitches in width and 32 rows in height with stocking stitch = 10 x 10 cm.
NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3 MM: Length 40 cm and 60 cm or 80 cm for stocking stitch.
Needle size is only a suggestion! If you have too many stitches on 10 cm switch to a larger needle size. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm switch to a smaller needle size.
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Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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DROPS Safran 100% Cotton |
from 0.75 £ /50g | Order | ||||
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DROPS Needles & Hooks | Order | |||||
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NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:
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RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked in the round):
1 ridge in height = 2 rounds; Knit 1 round and purl 1 round.
PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.4.
RAGLAN:
Increase to raglan on each side of the back piece and each side of the front piece (towards the sleeves). Increase by making 1 yarn over before/after the stitch with the marker thread; on the next round knit the yarn overs to leave holes. The increases on the sleeves are drawn into patterns A.1 and A.3.
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START THE PIECE HERE:
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TOP – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The neck and yoke are worked in the round with circular needle, top down. The yoke is divided for body and sleeves and the body continued in the round. A small edge is worked around the armholes.
NECK:
Cast on 106-110-116-120-124-132 stitches with circular needle size 3 mm and Safran. Work 2 RIDGES – read description above. Then work the yoke as described below.
YOKE:
Insert 4 marker threads in the piece as described below (without working the stitches). The threads will be used when increasing to raglan.
Count 16-17-18-19-20-22 stitches (= half back piece), insert 1 marker thread in the next stitch, count 19 stitches (= sleeve), insert 1 marker thread in the next stitch, count 32-34-37-39-41-45 stitches (= front piece), insert 1 marker thread in the next stitch, count 19 stitches (= sleeve), insert 1 marker thread in the next stitch. There are 16-17-19-20-21-23 stitches after the last marker thread (half back piece).
The first round is worked as follows: Work stocking stitch as far as the first marker-stitch, make 1 yarn over (first increase to RAGLAN – see description above), work the marker-stitch in stocking stitch, A.1 (= 2 stitches), A.2 (= 14 stitches) and A.3 ( = 3 stitches) (= 19 stitches on the sleeve), work the marker-stitch in stocking stitch, 1 yarn over, work stocking stitch as far as the next marker-stitch (= front piece), 1 yarn over, work the marker-stitch in stocking stitch, A.1 (= 2 stitches), A.2 (= 14 stitches) and A.3 (= 3 stitches) (= 19 stitches on the sleeve), work the marker-stitch in stocking stitch, 1 yarn over, work stocking stitch over the remaining stitches (= front piece).
Continue this pattern with stocking stitch on the front and back pieces and A.1, A.2 and A.3 on the sleeves. Each time A.1, A.2 and A.3 are worked 1 time in height, you work 2 more repeats of A.2 between A.1 and A.3. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
AT THE SAME TIME continue to increase to raglan every 2nd round a total of 22-26-28-31-35-39 times at each marker thread (including the first increase described above). The new stitches are worked in stocking stitch on the front and back pieces and in lace pattern as shown in the diagrams on the sleeves. When the increases to raglan are finished there are 294-334-356-388-424-468 stitches on the needle. The next round is worked as follows: Work 39-44-47-51-56-62 stitches (= half the back piece), place the next 69-79-83-91-99-109 stitches on 1 thread for the sleeve, cast on 9-9-9-11-13-15 new stitches on the needle (= in side under sleeve), work 78-88-95-103-113-125 stitches (= front piece), place the next 69-79-83-91-99-109 stitches on 1 thread for the sleeve, cast on 9-9-9-11-13-15 new stitches on the needle (= in side under sleeve), work the last 39-44-48-52-57-63 stitches (= half back piece). Body and sleeves are finished separately. THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE!
BODY:
= 174-194-208-228-252-280 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread in the middle of the 9-9-9-11-13-15 stitches cast on under each sleeve. Cut the strand and begin the round 6 stitches before 1 of the stitches with marker thread. Work A.4 (= 13 stitches), work 74-84-91-101-113-127 stitches in stocking stitch, work A.4 and then stocking stitch over the last 74-84-91-101-113-127 stitches. Continue this pattern, AT THE SAME TIME, when the piece measures 2 cm, increase by making 1 yarn over on each side of A.4, on the next round knit the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes (= 4 increased stitches). Repeat the increase every 1 ½ cm a total of 18 times; the increased stitches are worked in stocking stitch = 246-266-280-300-324-352 stitches. When the piece measures 28-29-29-30-29-29 cm from the division work 2 ridges over all stitches, then cast off.
SLEEVE-EDGE:
Place the 69-79-83-91-99-109 stitches on one of the threads on short circular needle size 3 mm and knit up 1 stitch in each of the 9-9-9-11-13-15 new stitches under the sleeve = 78-88-92-102-112-124 stitches. Work 2 ridges over all stitches, then cast off.
Work the other sleeve-edge in the same way.
This pattern has been corrected. Click here to see the correction/s..
Correction: 2 yarn overs on the 9th round in diagram A.4 as been removed.
Correction: 2 yarn overs on the 13th round in diagram A.4 as been added.
Diagram
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= knit |
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= purl |
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= knit 2 together |
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= slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch |
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= between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over; on the next round knit the yarn over to leave a hole |
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= slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 2 together and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted together stitches |
Do you need help with this pattern?
Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 211-5) for measurements and calculations.
Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.
1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?
Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.
The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.
The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.
3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?
The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.
Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.
See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?
4) How do I use the yarn converter?
At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).
If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.
5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?
The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.
Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?
Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.
The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.
Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.
9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.
When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.
When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.
When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.
When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.
When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.
The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?
Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.
The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?
Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.
14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?
It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.
See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)
15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?
To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.
See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately
16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?
Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.
Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!
17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?
Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.
See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open
18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?
Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.
See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?
19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?
Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.
It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.
The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.
20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?
If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.
Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.
21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?
All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.
Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding
Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:
1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.
2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.
3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.
4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.
22) Where on the garment is the length measured?
The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.
On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.
See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing
23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?
The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.
Comments / Questions (111)
From the #dropsfan gallery
Catch the Wind
211-5 Catch the Wind
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We reserve the right to withdraw the permission for use of our patterns at any time, notwithstanding the reason.
With over 30 years in knitting and crochet design, DROPS Design offers one of the most extensive collections of free patterns on the internet - translated to 17 languages. As of today we count 268 catalogues and 9972 patterns - 9964 of which are translated into English (UK/cm).
We work hard to bring you the best knitting and crochet have to offer, inspiration and advice as well as great quality yarns at incredible prices! Would you like to use our patterns for other than personal use? You can read what you are allowed to do in the Copyright text at the bottom of all our patterns. Happy crafting!
Je rencontre un problème aux rangs 11 12 et 23 24. Il est indiqué dans le A1 au rang 11 :1 m end, 1 jeté, 1 m env, 1 jeté, 2m ens à end.... Au rang 12 on commence par 1 m end, 1 m env, 1 m end, 1 m env.... Ce qui veut dire que la 1ère m env du rang 11 se transforme en m end au rang 12 ? Si non, je n'arrive pas à faire coïncider les m par rapport à vos explications. J'ai le même problème pour le rang 23 et 24. Je vous remercie pour votre aide
DROPS Design
14.06.2021 kl. 16:31:
Bonjour Mme Da Silva, au rang 12, la 1ère m de A.1 est 1 m end = la même qu'avant; la 2ème maille est le premier jeté du rang 11 = 1 m env; la 3ème m est 1 maille endroit = la maille envers et la 4ème maille est le 2ème jeté = 1 m env. Suivez bien les indications des diagrammes pour tricoter les mailles dans l'ordre indiqué (de droite à gauche aussi sur l'envers car on tricote en rond). Bon tricot!Hi! Sorry, ich vergaß zu erwähnen,daß ich mit dem Raglan fertig bin und nun beim Ende des Rumpfteil bin. Meine Arbeit mißt 27cm ( da ich etwas fester stricke) und es sind für Größe M 280M auf der Nadel, habe alle 18 Zunahmen aller 1,5cm gestrickt. Möchte dieses Modell gerne bis ca. 33cm Länge stricken. Ist es ratsam da weitere Zunahmen zu arbeiten oder ohne diese Zunahmen weiter zu stricken? Vielen lieben Dank für die Hilfe!
DROPS Design
09.06.2021 kl. 15:06:
Liebe Mia, oh ja sorry, dann können Sie ruhig bis die gewüschnte Länge weiterstricken (Sie können vielleicht, die Ärmelblende zuerst stricken, so wissen Sie genau, wieviel Garn Sie noch für Rumpfteil/Länge haben?). Viel Spaß beim stricken!Hi Drops-Team! Habe jetzt alle 18 Zunahmen gearbeitet. Da ich etwas fester stricke, mißt meine Arbeit nur 27cm. Ich würde dieses Oberteil gerne etwas länger stricken,bis etwa 33cm. Ist es da sinnvoll mit den Zunahmen weiter zu verfahren oder einfach weiter ohne Zunahmen zu stricken? VG + Danke für eure Hilfe.
DROPS Design
09.06.2021 kl. 07:40:
Liebe Mia, die Raglanzunahmen sollen insgesamt 22-26-28-31-35-39 Mal gearbeitet werden, dh nach 18 zunahmen sind es nicht fertig und die gesamte Maschenanzahlt stimmt sicher nicht. Sollten Sie dann die gewünschte Höhe noch nicht haben, dann stricken Sie am besten weiter wie zuvor aber ohne Zunahmen, sonnst werden Rumpfteil und Ärmel zu breit. Viel Spaß beim stricken!Buongiorno mi potrebbe spiegare cosa si intende esattamente con la frase Ogni volta che si lavora A1 A 2 e A3 in altezza si lavorano 2 ripetizioni in più di A2 Io non riesco a far combaciare il primo con il secondo giro Grazie
DROPS Design
08.06.2021 kl. 18:48:
Buonasera Mire, questo passaggio significa che ad ogni lavorazione di una ripetizione dei diagrammi A.1, A.2 e A.3, ci saranno abbastanza maglie per lavorare 2 ripetizioni in più di A.2. Buon lavoro!Buongiorno, vorrei avere un informazione, riguardo ai rovesci degli schemi a1 a2 a3 visto che da schema risultano sfalsati di due a due, ma facendolo risultano incolonnati. Grazie
DROPS Design
06.06.2021 kl. 19:31:
Buonasera Laura, può spiegarci meglio il suo problema? Il top è lavorato in tondo, quindi gli schemi si leggono sempre da destra verso sinistra e dal basso verso l'alto. Buon lavoro!Hi, habe die 4 zugenommen Umschläge rechts verschränkt gestrickt. Werden die anderen zugenommenen Umschschläge ( aller 1,5 cm ) auch verschränkt gestrickt oder nur einfach rechts gestrickt,so daß Löcher entstehen sollen? Dankeschön für die Hilfe.
DROPS Design
04.06.2021 kl. 07:06:
Liebe Mia, die Umschläge/Zunahmen beidseitig von den beiden A.4 beim Rumfpteil werden bei der nächsten Runde rechts verschränkt gestrickt, diese müssen kein Loch bilden. Viel Spaß beim stricken!Hi, ich befinde mich nun beim Rumpfteil.Habe Markirungen in der mittleren Masche unter dem Arm angebracht. Warum muss ich den Faden abschneiden? Somit würden die 47 Maschen ( mit Abzug einiger Maschen für die mittleren markierten M unter dem Arm sind es 45 Maschen ) vom anderen Rückenteil (Anfang der Runde) eine Runde ungestrickt bleiben,Oder werden die M vom ersten halben Rückenteil ( Anfang ) abgestrickt und der Rundenanfang verschiebt sich zu den 6 abgezählten M unter dem Arm? Danke.
DROPS Design
03.06.2021 kl. 08:32:
Liebe Mia, nach der Verteilung wird der Faden abgeschnitten, damit die Runden 6 Maschen vor der Markierung beginnen: A.4 wird über die nächsten 13 Maschen gestrickt (= 6 M vor der Markierung + Markierung + 6 M nach der Markierung an einer Seite). Viel Spaß beim stricken!Hi, bei der Beschreibung für die Passe,die erste Runde, ist am Ende nicht das Rückenteil gemeint? Da ja 2x das "Vorderteil" in der Beschreibung vorkommt.
DROPS Design
26.05.2021 kl. 10:35:
Liebe Mia, Sie sind ja recht, danke für den Hinweis, eine Korrektur erfolgt. Viel Spaß beim stricken!Your answers to my other two questions have been very helpful! thanks so much. My other question is: in this pattern it states to "Insert 4 marker threads in next stitch". I have added stitch markers between stitches and have performed a function 'after marker' or 'before marker'. What is the difference with this instruction? why not just knit after the marker in the next stitch? do I have to move this marker each row after knitting that stitch? Thanks so much for your quick response.
DROPS Design
24.05.2021 kl. 03:28:
Dear Sheila, "insert marker in stitch" means that the marker should be put IN a stitch and not between two stitches, Increases for raglan should be done before and after this stitch, the marked stitch will stay (it will help if you move the marker, as your piece grows. Happy Knitting!What does WORKED 1 TIME IN HEIGHT mean?
DROPS Design
17.05.2021 kl. 09:51:
Dear Mrs Kaupa, this means when all rows in diagrams are done, ie A.1, A.2 and A.3 = 24 rows. After these 24 rows are worked, repeat them as explained in pattern/previous answer. Hope this will help. Happy knitting!