Catch the Wind by DROPS Design

Knitted top with raglan and short sleeves in DROPS Safran. The piece is worked top down with lace pattern. Sizes XS - XXL.

  • Catch the Wind / DROPS 211-5 - Knitted top with raglan and short sleeves in DROPS Safran. The piece is worked top down with lace pattern. Sizes XS - XXL.
  • Catch the Wind / DROPS 211-5 - Knitted top with raglan and short sleeves in DROPS Safran. The piece is worked top down with lace pattern. Sizes XS - XXL.
DROPS Design: Pattern no e-306
Yarn group A
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SIZES:
XS - S - M - L - XL - XXL

MATERIALS:
DROPS SAFRAN from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
250-250-250-300-300-350 g colour 18, off white

KNITTING TENSION:
24 stitches in width and 32 rows in height with stocking stitch = 10 x 10 cm.

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3 MM: Length 40 cm and 60 cm or 80 cm for stocking stitch.
Needle size is only a suggestion! If you have too many stitches on 10 cm switch to a larger needle size. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm switch to a smaller needle size.

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Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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100% Cotton
from 1.15 £ /50g
DROPS Safran uni colour DROPS Safran uni colour 1.15 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks Order
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 5.75£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked in the round):
1 ridge in height = 2 rounds; Knit 1 round and purl 1 round.

PATTERN: 
See diagrams A.1 to A.4.

RAGLAN:
Increase to raglan on each side of the back piece and each side of the front piece (towards the sleeves). Increase by making 1 yarn over before/after the stitch with the marker thread; on the next round knit the yarn overs to leave holes. The increases on the sleeves are drawn into patterns A.1 and A.3.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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TOP – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The neck and yoke are worked in the round with circular needle, top down. The yoke is divided for body and sleeves and the body continued in the round. A small edge is worked around the armholes.

NECK:
Cast on 106-110-116-120-124-132 stitches with circular needle size 3 mm and Safran. Work 2 RIDGES – read description above. Then work the yoke as described below.

YOKE:
Insert 4 marker threads in the piece as described below (without working the stitches). The threads will be used when increasing to raglan.
Count 16-17-18-19-20-22 stitches (= half back piece), insert 1 marker thread in the next stitch, count 19 stitches (= sleeve), insert 1 marker thread in the next stitch, count 32-34-37-39-41-45 stitches (= front piece), insert 1 marker thread in the next stitch, count 19 stitches (= sleeve), insert 1 marker thread in the next stitch. There are 16-17-19-20-21-23 stitches after the last marker thread (half back piece).
The first round is worked as follows: Work stocking stitch as far as the first marker-stitch, make 1 yarn over (first increase to RAGLAN – see description above), work the marker-stitch in stocking stitch, A.1 (= 2 stitches), A.2 (= 14 stitches) and A.3 ( = 3 stitches) (= 19 stitches on the sleeve), work the marker-stitch in stocking stitch, 1 yarn over, work stocking stitch as far as the next marker-stitch (= front piece), 1 yarn over, work the marker-stitch in stocking stitch, A.1 (= 2 stitches), A.2 (= 14 stitches) and A.3 (= 3 stitches) (= 19 stitches on the sleeve), work the marker-stitch in stocking stitch, 1 yarn over, work stocking stitch over the remaining stitches (= half back piece).
Continue this pattern with stocking stitch on the front and back pieces and A.1, A.2 and A.3 on the sleeves. Each time A.1, A.2 and A.3 are worked 1 time in height, you work 2 more repeats of A.2 between A.1 and A.3. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!

AT THE SAME TIME continue to increase to raglan every 2nd round a total of 22-26-28-31-35-39 times at each marker thread (including the first increase described above). The new stitches are worked in stocking stitch on the front and back pieces and in lace pattern as shown in the diagrams on the sleeves. When the increases to raglan are finished there are 294-334-356-388-424-468 stitches on the needle. The next round is worked as follows: Work 39-44-47-51-56-62 stitches (= half the back piece), place the next 69-79-83-91-99-109 stitches on 1 thread for the sleeve, cast on 9-9-9-11-13-15 new stitches on the needle (= in side under sleeve), work 78-88-95-103-113-125 stitches (= front piece), place the next 69-79-83-91-99-109 stitches on 1 thread for the sleeve, cast on 9-9-9-11-13-15 new stitches on the needle (= in side under sleeve), work the last 39-44-48-52-57-63 stitches (= half back piece). Body and sleeves are finished separately. THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE!

BODY:
= 174-194-208-228-252-280 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread in the middle of the 9-9-9-11-13-15 stitches cast on under each sleeve. Cut the strand and begin the round 6 stitches before 1 of the stitches with marker thread. Work A.4 (= 13 stitches), work 74-84-91-101-113-127 stitches in stocking stitch, work A.4 and then stocking stitch over the last 74-84-91-101-113-127 stitches. Continue this pattern, AT THE SAME TIME, when the piece measures 2 cm, increase by making 1 yarn over on each side of A.4, on the next round knit the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes (= 4 increased stitches). Repeat the increase every 1 ½ cm a total of 18 times; the increased stitches are worked in stocking stitch = 246-266-280-300-324-352 stitches. When the piece measures 28-29-29-30-29-29 cm from the division work 2 ridges over all stitches, then cast off.

SLEEVE-EDGE:
Place the 69-79-83-91-99-109 stitches on one of the threads on short circular needle size 3 mm and knit up 1 stitch in each of the 9-9-9-11-13-15 new stitches under the sleeve = 78-88-92-102-112-124 stitches. Work 2 ridges over all stitches, then cast off.

Work the other sleeve-edge in the same way.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 12.05.2020
Correction: 2 yarn overs on the 9th round in diagram A.4 as been removed.
Updated online: 04.06.2020
Correction: 2 yarn overs on the 13th round in diagram A.4 as been added.
Updated online: 04.11.2021
YOKE:... work the marker-stitch in stocking stitch, 1 yarn over, work stocking stitch over the remaining stitches (= half back piece).

Diagram

symbols = knit
symbols = purl
symbols = knit 2 together
symbols = slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch
symbols = between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over; on the next round knit the yarn over to leave a hole
symbols = slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 2 together and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted together stitches
diagram
diagram
diagram
signature-image signature

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 211-5) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (135)

country flag Humeau Nadia wrote:

Je vais donc devoir tout remettre à zéro. Ce qui me dérangeait c'est qu avec 20 augmentations de raglan j avais déjà plus de Mailles de prévu pour l ensemble du tricot. Aurais je fait une erreur sur les augmentations. Pourtant j ai bien tenu compte de l'augmentation avant ou après la maille marqueur ! 1 augmentation côté dos manche et 1 de chaque côté manches devant soit 4 à chaque tour ?

10.05.2022 - 10:38

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Humeau, vous augmentez 2 mailles sur le devant/le dos tous les 2 rangs (après 28 augmentations = 56 augmentations), mais pour les diagrammes A.1 et A.3, attention, car vous augmentez parfois 2 mailles (cf réponses précédentes); donc 1 au début et à la fin du dos et du devant, et soit 1 soit 2 au début et à la fin de chaque manche, comme dans A.1/A.3. Bon tricot!

10.05.2022 kl. 14:01

country flag Humeau Nadia wrote:

Je viens de compter mes rangs de diagramme A1 je suis au 40 ème rang pour 368 mailles en tour pour mon tricot dont seulement si je comprend bien les 28 augmentations au total tous les 2 rangs j en ai 19 augmentations jetées , pourquoi ces mailles en trop. Je reste sur mon problème.

10.05.2022 - 07:21

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Humeau, il est difficile de repérer votre erreur à distance, essayez de bien vérifier votre nombre de mailles pour chaque partie dos/devant et manches. Vérifiez votre nombre d'augmentations également. Si vous avez tricoté 40 tours depuis le début, vous devez avoir augmenté 20 fois (on augmente tous les 2 tours). Vous avez ainsi: 18+20=38 m pour le demi-dos avant la maille avec le fil marqueur. Bon tricot!

10.05.2022 kl. 08:56

country flag Humeau Nadia wrote:

Bonjour désolée suite à mon message hier soir je me suis trompée de nombres de mailles. Pour la taille M j ai au total 368 mailles au lieu de 356, je pensais qu il fallait finir un dessin complet du diagramme 2 du coup j'ai continué. Je ne comprenais pas le sens de augmenter 28 fois au total tous les 2 tours ... J ai le diagramme 2 avec 4 épis presque finis. Dois je redémarrer mon travail du coup et jusqu'à quel rang des diagramme. Merci d avance.

10.05.2022 - 06:59

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Humeau, effectivement, 28 fois tous les 2 tours signifie que vous allez augmenter sur 28 rangs sur l'endroit (56 tours au total); pour que votre nombre de mailles soit juste pour la suite, il sera probablement plus simple de défaire les rangs en trop pour que vous retombiez juste; Si vous le souhaitez, vous pourrez terminer le motif ajouré des manches avant de terminer par les 2 côtes mousse. Bon tricot!

10.05.2022 kl. 08:51

country flag HUMEAU NADIA wrote:

Bonsoir Une question concernant la fin du diagramme manche et mes augmentations raglan. Que signifie pour la taille M augmenter 28 fois au total tous les 2 tours à chaque fil marqueur ? Je pense avoir été trop loin dans le dessin. Je me retrouve avec 356 Mailles au lieu de 356 donc plus de Mailles pour les 1/2dos et le devant. Je ne savais pas jusqu'où travailler le diagramme des manches. Je laisse mon travail en suspend le temps d avoir vos conseils. Merci d avance.

09.05.2022 - 20:02

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Humeau, vous devez augmenter à chaque tour d'augmentation des raglans: 1 m au début + 1 m à la fin de chaque dos et du devant comme indiqué sous RAGLAN, les augmentations du dos/devant se tricotent en jersey et celles des manches comme dans les diagrammes A.1 et A.3 - à chaque fois que vous tricotez les 24 rangs des diagrammes, vous avez augmenté 14 mailles dans A.1 et A.3 (aux rangs 11 et 23 , on augmente 2 mailles ans A.1 et 2 m ailles dans A.3 = 4 m pour chacune des manches, soit 12 mailles au total sur ce tour). Vérifiez votre nombre de mailles d'après celui indiqué pour la division, ceci pourrait vous aider. Bon tricot!

10.05.2022 kl. 08:41

country flag Humeau wrote:

Binsiir Je viens de finir les diagrammes A1 A2 A3. Dos manches devant. Pour continuer mon tricot avec les raglans et la continuité du motif où dois je reprendre ce dessin. Au 1er rg.? Merci pour votre aide et merci de m avoir bien expliqué les autres fois. Je suis bien répartie. Nadia Humeau

04.05.2022 - 23:11

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Humeau, tout à fait, vous allez répéter les diagrammes ainsi: A.1 au-dessus des 2 premières m du A.1 précédent et A.2 sur les 14 m suivantes (=les 16 m du dernier rang de A.1), répétez A.3 comme avant jusqu'aux 17 m du dernier rang de A.3, tricotez alors A.2 (= 14 m) et A.3 (= 3 m). Continuez les diagrammes ainsi, autrement dit, vous tricotez 2 fois A.2 en plus entre A.1 et A.3. Bon tricot!

05.05.2022 kl. 09:06

country flag Humeau wrote:

Tous les cas merci merci de nous répondre ainsi ça aide beaucoup. Nadia Humeau

01.05.2022 - 09:25

country flag Katrin wrote:

Ich stricke gdie Größe S. Bald habe ich das Muster 2x gestrickt, aber dann habe ich noch nicht 26 Raglanzunahmen gemacht. Muss ich das Muster nochmal wiederholen oder stricke ich jetzt glatt rechts über den Ärmel bis alle Raglanzunahmen gestrickt sind?

29.04.2022 - 08:19

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Katrin, wenn die Diagramme fertig in der Höhe sind, dann wiederholen Sie sie in der Höhe, dh: A.1 über die 2 ersten Maschen, dann wiederholen Sie A.2 über die nächsten Maschen bis 3 Maschen (vorrigen A.3) bleiben und stricken Sie A.3 über diese 3 Maschen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

29.04.2022 kl. 08:32

country flag Humeau Nadia wrote:

Merci pour votre retour sur mes interrogations seulement vous parlez de Jersey sur l'endroit mais dans ce cas sur les rangs pairs il faut aussi tricoter à l endroit donc point mousse dans le schéma. J ai tenté de refaire le diagramme mais je suis toujours bloquée aux rangs pairs quand il y a le jeté et le x sur le rang impair. Comment dois je les tricoter. Désolée pour cette nouvelle question mais du coup je pense que je décale le dessin et ça ne donne rien. Merci beaucoup

27.04.2022 - 16:53

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Humeau, quand on tricote du jersey en rond, on tricote toutes les mailles à l'endroit (cf vidéo - pour tricoter du point mousse, on devrait alterner 1 tour endroit, 1 tour envers - cf cette autre vidéo). Autrement dit, vis vous tricotez bien en rond, tricotez les cases blanches à l'endroit (= jersey endroit) et les croix à l'envers (jersey envers). Bon tricot!

28.04.2022 kl. 11:31

country flag Humeau wrote:

Bonjour j ai du mal à démarrer le point fantaisie. Le schéma correspond bien aux rangs endroit et envers donc Au rang 2 on se retrouvé avec des points mousse est ce cela quand on fait 1 maille endroit sur l endroit et l envers. De plus je n arrive pas à savoir où placer la maille marquée et le jeté. A chaque rang endroit dois je d abord faire la jeté ou dois je tricoter celle du rang précédent. Merci pour votre aide

26.04.2022 - 20:37

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Humeau, on tricote ce top en rond, en tricotant les rangs impairs du diagramme à l'endroit, vous obtiendrez du jersey (les x correspondent à des mailles jersey envers, tricotez à l'envers tous les tours). Faites suivre les marqueurs, ils doivent toujours rester dans la même maille, ainsi vous ne les perdrez pas, et vous augmenterez pour le dos/devant avant/après cette maille; les augmentations des manches se font dans le diagramme (= 2 m après/avant cette maille). Bon tricot!

27.04.2022 kl. 08:18

country flag Früh Anita wrote:

Hallo. Die Frage mit den Raglanzunahmen habe ich glaube ich rausbekommen. Aber etwas verstehe ich nicht ganz (Knopf in der Leitung): bei in dieser Weise weiterarbeiten heisst es „jedesmal wenn A.1, A.2, und A.3 1x in der Höhe gestrickt wurden 2 Rapporte von A.2 zwischen A.1 und A.3 Stricken. „ Woher sind die Maschen dazu ? Besten Danke für die Weiterhilfe.

18.04.2022 - 19:54

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Früh, die Raglanzunahmen bei den Ärmeln stricken Sie in A.1 (rechts im Diagram) und A.3 (links im Diagram); jedesmal diese beide Diagramme in der Höhe gestrickt sind, haben Sie 14 Maschen in je A.1/A.3 = so haben Sie genügend Maschen für 1 x A.2 beidseitig. Dh über die 16 Maschen A.1 stricken Sie: A.1, A.2 und über die 17 Maschen A.3 stricken Sie: A.2, A.3. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

19.04.2022 kl. 11:45

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