DROPS Air
DROPS Air
65% Alpaca, 28% Polyamide, 7% Wool
from 6.45 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 38.70$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS SS24
DROPS 210-5
DROPS design: Pattern ai-248
Yarn group C or A + A
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SIZE:
S - M - L - XL - XXL – XXXL

Finished measurements:
Chest measurements: 94-100-108-118-132-144 cm = 37"-39⅜"-42½"-46½"-52"-56½"
Full length: 62-64-66-68-70-72 cm = 24⅜"-25¼"-26"-26¾"-27½"-28⅜"

All measurements in charts are in cm.

MATERIALS:
DROPS AIR from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
300-350-350-400-450-500 g color 03, pearl grey

KNITTING GAUGE:
16 stitches in width and 20 rows vertically in stockinette stitch = 10 x 10 cm.

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 5.5 mm = US 9
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 5.5 mm = US 9: Length 40 and 60 or 80 cm = 16" and 24" or 32"
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 4.5 mm = US 7
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4.5 mm = US 7: Length 80 cm = 32" for rib.

Needle size is only a suggestion! If you have too many stitches on 10 cm = 4" switch to a larger needle size. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm = 4" switch to a smaller needle size.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Air
DROPS Air
65% Alpaca, 28% Polyamide, 7% Wool
from 6.45 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 38.70$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
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EXPLANATION FOR THE PATTERN:

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GARTER STITCH (back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge vertically = knit 2 rows.

PATTERN:
See diagram A.1.

DECREASE TIP-1 (evenly):
To calculate how to decrease evenly, use the total number of stitches on row (e.g. 89 stitches) and divide stitches by number of decreases to be done (e.g. 12) = 7.4.
In this example decrease by knitting approx. every 6th and 7th stitch together.


DECREASE TIP–2 applies to neck decrease front piece.
Decrease inside 3 stitches, continue these 3 stitches in stockinette stitch up along neck edge. All decreases are done from the right side.
Decrease as follows before stitches slipped on a stitch holder for neck (left shoulder).
Work until 5 stitches on needle (towards stitches slipped on a stitch holder), knit 2 together, work the last 3 stitches on needle in stockinette stitch.

Decrease as follows after stitches slipped on a stitch holder for neck (right shoulder).
Work 3 stitches in stockinette stitch, slip next stitch knitwise, knit next stitch, pass slipped stitch over, work the rest of row.


INCREASE TIP (applies to sleeves):
Begin 1 stitch before marker thread, make 1 yarn over, 2 stitches (marker thread is in the middle of these stitches), make 1 yarn over. On next round knit yarns over twisted to avoid holes.
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START THE PIECE HERE:

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SWEATER - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
Work sweater back and forth in 2 parts that are sewn together when finished. Work sleeves in the round on double pointed needles.

BACK PIECE:
Cast on 89-97-103-113-125-137 stitches on circular needle size 4.5 mm = US 7 with Air. Purl 1 row from wrong side, then work as follows from right side: 2 edge stitches in in GARTER STITCH – see explanation above, * knit 1/purl 1 *, repeat from *-* until 3 stitches remain, knit 1 and 2 stitches in garter stitch. Continue like this until piece measures 8 cm = 3⅛". Switch to circular needle size 5.5 mm = US 9. Knit 1 row from right side while decreasing 12-14-14-16-18-20 stitches evenly - READ DECREASE TIP-1 = 77-83-89-97-107-117 stitches. Work A.1 with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch in each side. When piece measures 43-44-45-46-47-48 cm = 17"-17¼"-17¾"-18"-18½"-19", bind off for armholes in each side. Bind off stitches at beginning of every row in each side: Bind off 3 stitches 1-1-1-1-1-1 time, 2 stitches 1-1-1-1-1-1 time and 1 stitch 1-1-2-2-2-3 times = 65-71-75-83-93-101 stitches. Continue in A.1 until piece measures 60-62-64-66-68-70 cm = 23⅝"-24⅜"-25¼"-26"-26¾"-27½". Now bind off the middle 27-27-29-31-33-35 stitches for neck, and finish each shoulder separately. Then decrease on next row from the neck as follows: 1 stitch 1 time = 18-21-22-25-29-32 stitches remain for shoulder. Continue until piece measures 62-64-66-68-70-72 cm = 24⅜"-25¼"-26"-26¾"-27½"-28⅜", and bind off. Work the other shoulder the same way.

FRONT PIECE:
Cast on and work as on back piece until piece measures 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm = 21¼"-22"-22¾"-23⅝"-24⅜"-25¼". Now slip the middle 17-17-19-21-23-25 stitches on 1 stitch holder for neck, and finish each shoulder separately. Then decrease every row from the right side as follows: 1 stitch 6 times - READ DECREASE TIP-2 (applies to neck) = 18-21-22-25-29-32 stitches remain for shoulder. Continue until piece measures 62-64-66-68-70-72 cm = 24⅜"-25¼"-26"-26¾"-27½"-28⅜", and bind off. Work the other shoulder the same way.

SLEEVE:
Work sleeves in the round on double pointed needles/ circular needle, bottom up. Divide piece when decreasing for sleeve cap and work back and forth on needle.

Cast on 46-48-50-52-52-56 stitches on double pointed needles size 4.5 mm = US 7 with Air. Knit 1 round, then work rib, knit 1/purl 1. When piece measures 8 cm = 3⅛", switch to double pointed needles size 5.5 mm = US 9, and work in stockinette stitch On first round in in stockinette stitch decrease 8-8-8-8-8-10 stitches evenly = 38-40-42-44-44-46 stitches. Insert a marker thread at beginning of round = mid under sleeve. Continue in stockinette stitch, AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 10-10-10-10-12-12 cm = 4"-4"-4"-4"-4¾"-4¾", increase 1 stitch on each side of marker thread - READ INCREASE TIP. Work yarn overs twisted on next round to avoid holes. Increase every 3½-3½-3-3-2-2 cm = 1¼"-1¼"-1⅛"-1⅛"-¾"-¾" 11-12-13-13-15-15 times in total = 60-64-68-70-74-76 stitches. When piece measures 50-49-49-48-45-44 cm = 19¾"-19¼"-19¼"-19"-17¾"-17¼", bind off 3 stitches on each side of marker thread (= 6 stitches bind off mid under sleeve), then work sleeve back and forth. Bind off for sleeve cap at beginning of every row in each side as follows: 2 stitches 1 time, 3 stitches 1 time, then bind off the remaining stitches. Work another sleeve the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the shoulder seams. Sew in sleeves. Sew side seams inside 1 edge stitch until 8 cm = 3⅛" remain = vent.

NECK EDGE:
Pick up approx. 92-106 stitches around the neck (including stitches on stitch holder and adapt so that the number of stitches is divisible by 2). Work rib knit 1/purl 1 for 9 cm = 3½". Bind off. Fold rib at the top of neck down on the inside of garment. Fasten rib to form a folding edge. To avoid a tight neck edge and avoiding the edge to tip outwards, it is important to make the seam elastic.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 16.04.2020
Correction: Edited length measurements up to armhole and neck on front and back piece.
Updated online: 16.03.2021
FRONT PIECE: ... Then decrease every row from the right side as follows: ...

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = knit from the right side, purl from the wrong side
symbols = purl from the right side, knit from the wrong side
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (106)

country flag Christine wrote:

I have clicked to see the corrections but what then appears contains no details. It does not seem as though the changes hinted at in the notices have in fact been made in the pattern itself, judging by some of the users’ comments about what has been incorrect. Please clarify and specify the exact changes.

22.04.2024 - 16:12

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Christine, there were two corrections, Edits made at the length measurements up to armhole and neck on front and back piece., and a small corrections on the front, but both are already corrected in the pattern. Happy Knitting!

22.04.2024 - 18:22

country flag Inger Schütte wrote:

Jeg forstår ike rigtig opskriften. der står den skal strikkes i 2 dele. Men i opskriften skal man strikke med rundpinde med 2 kantmasker . Er det virkelig den rigtige opskrift på Rainy Day Sweater

20.03.2024 - 16:21

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Inger. Jo, du strikker frem og tilbake på rundpinne. Når man har så mange masker er det lettere (for mange) å strikke frem og tilbake på rundpinne enn lange parpinner. Men ønsker du å bruke lange par pinner kan du fint gjøre det. mvh DROPS Design

02.04.2024 - 13:12

country flag Izze wrote:

I do not understand a1 in back piece. I tried to read your explanation in the comment when somebody asked the same question i am asking. Can you easily explain it thanks 😊😊

16.03.2024 - 14:37

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Izze, A.1 is a 2-stitch pattern. The first stitch (when looking from right to left) would be worked in stocking stitch (so you knit it from the right and purl it from the wrong side). So, over this stitch, you will work either a knit or purl stitch depending on if you are on a right side row or purl side row, respectively. The second stitch, on the other hand, is worked in garter stitch, so you always knit it. Now you alternate between both stitches the whole row (1 stitch in stocking stitch, 1 stitch in garter stitch, 1 stitch in stocking stitch, 1 stitch in garter stitch.....)Happy knitting!

17.03.2024 - 23:36

country flag Annemiek Van De Rijt wrote:

Wat bedoelen jullie met :”Hecht de boordsteek aan met een vouwrand. “? Dit staat bij de halsrand. Als ik 9 cm heb gebreid naai ik de boord naar binnen gevouwen vast, maar wat is met een vouwrand?

04.03.2024 - 13:21

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Annemiek,

Het staat een beetje onhandig omschreven, maar er wordt bedoeld dat je de boord omvouwt en aan de binnenkant vastnaait.

05.03.2024 - 22:50

country flag Annemiek Van De Rijt wrote:

Ik begrijp de maten van de mouw niet? Klopt het dat je voor maat S door moet breien tot 50 cm? In de tekening lijken de maten van de mouw omgekeerd in volgorde van grootte te staan? Nu lijkt het net of je met de kleinste maat de langste mouw moet breien?

13.02.2024 - 14:26

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Annemiek,

Klopt, vanwege bredere schouders in de grotere maten, zijn de mouwen korter bij de grotere maten.

13.02.2024 - 19:18

country flag Malgorzata wrote:

Wiem ktora to prawa strona a ktora lewa chodzi mi o ramiona ktore to prawe a ktore lewe

01.11.2023 - 19:14

DROPS Design answered:

Witaj Małgosiu, patrzymy jakbyś założyła sweter. Więc prawe ramię przodu jak robótka jest rozłożona na płasko np. na stole prawą stroną do góry, będzie lewym ramieniem gdy nałożysz gotowy sweter. Pozdrawiamy!

02.11.2023 - 08:40

country flag Malgorzata wrote:

Rozumiem ze srodkowe oczka musze sciagnac na dodatkowy drut ale nie rozumiem jak zamknac oczka na ramionach na dekold jak rozpoznac ktory prawa strona a ktore lewa czemu nie ma na to filmiku

31.10.2023 - 07:18

DROPS Design answered:

Witaj Małgosiu, prawa strona robótki to ta gdzie są pionowe rzędy oczek prawych naprzemiennie z rzędami ściegiem francuskim (patrz zdjęcie swetra). Na tej stronie będziesz przerabiać 3 oczka dżersejem prawym wzdłuż dekoltu i będziesz zamykać oczka jak w opisie w części ZAMYKANIE OCZEK-2 (dekolt przodu). W video poniżej znajdziesz 2 sposoby zamykania oczka: patrz 1. Zamykanie oczek: 2 oczka razem na prawo, 2. Zamykanie oczek–zdjąć 1 o., 1 o.p., przełożyć o. zdjęte nad przerobionym oczkiem. Pozdrawiamy!

31.10.2023 - 14:08

country flag Malgorzata wrote:

Dlaczego nie jest pokazana na filmiku jak zamykac te oczka na dekold bo nie rozumiem za dobrze

29.10.2023 - 05:58

DROPS Design answered:

Witaj Małgosiu, napisz dokładnie czego nie rozumiesz.

30.10.2023 - 08:20

country flag Barbara wrote:

Ik brei de sweater Drops 210-5 maar begrijp niet hoe ik de “hokjesstructuur” in het voorpand moet breien.

15.10.2023 - 13:25

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Barbara,

Hiervoor staat een telpatroon (A.1) afgebeeld onderaan het patroon. (Bij de maattekening onder de mouw.) Als je dit telpatroon volgt, ontstaat het hokjespatroon.

15.10.2023 - 17:18

country flag Laurel wrote:

This pattern does not read like the picture of it. How does the pattern go over the shoulder? It appears that the sleeve connects BELOW the shoulder. It the picture incorrect? How do 68 stitches for large work with 21 cm for the armhole opening?

11.08.2023 - 22:34

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Laurel, with correct tension (16 sts = 10 cm), the 68 sts in size L should be approx. 42 cm, so 21 cm fitting the armhole. Happy knitting!

14.08.2023 - 08:51