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Little Fox by DROPS Design
Knitted sweater with raglan for babies and kids in DROPS Sky. The piece is worked top down with fox-pattern. Sizes 1 month – 8 years.
Keywords:
animals, assembly free, graphic, long sleeves, raglan, round neck, slit neckline, sweater, top down
DROPS Baby 36-14
DROPS Design: Pattern no sk-001-by
Yarn group B
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SIZES:
1/3 - 6/9 - 12/18 months (2 - 3/4 - 5/6 - 7/8) years
Size equivalent to child’s height in cm:
56/62 - 68/74 - 80/86 (92 - 98/104 - 110/116 - 122/128)
Size equivalent to child’s height in feet:
1ft 10/2ft – 2ft3/2ft5 – 2ft7/2ft9 (3ft – 3ft3/3ft5 – 3ft7/3ft9)
Finished measurements:
Chest measurements: 54-58-62 (66-70-74-76) cm = 21 1/4"-22 3/4"-24 3/8" (26"-27 1/2"-29 1/8"-30")
Full length: 28-30-33 (36-40-44-48) cm = 11"-11 3/4"-13" (14 1/4"-15 3/4"-17 1/4"-19")
All measurements in charts are in cm.
MATERIALS:
DROPS SKY from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
100-100-100 (150-150-150-150) g color 11, hazelnut
50-50-50 (50-50-50-50) g color 03, light beige
A left-over of color 05, black for the eyes
KNITTING GAUGE:
20 stitches in width and 26 rows in height with stockinette stitch = 10 x 10 cm = 4” x 4”.
NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 4.5 MM = US 7.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4.5 MM = US 7: Length 40 cm = 16”, 60 cm = 24” or 80 cm = 32” for stockinette stitch.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3.5 MM = US 4.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3.5 MM = US 4: Length 40 cm = 16”, 60 cm = 24” or 80 cm = 32” for rib.
Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a smaller needle size.
DROPS BUTTONS, Cedar NO 513: 4 items in all sizes.
DROPS Design: Pattern no sk-001-by
Yarn group B
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SIZES:
1/3 - 6/9 - 12/18 months (2 - 3/4 - 5/6 - 7/8) years
Size equivalent to child’s height in cm:
56/62 - 68/74 - 80/86 (92 - 98/104 - 110/116 - 122/128)
Size equivalent to child’s height in feet:
1ft 10/2ft – 2ft3/2ft5 – 2ft7/2ft9 (3ft – 3ft3/3ft5 – 3ft7/3ft9)
Finished measurements:
Chest measurements: 54-58-62 (66-70-74-76) cm = 21 1/4"-22 3/4"-24 3/8" (26"-27 1/2"-29 1/8"-30")
Full length: 28-30-33 (36-40-44-48) cm = 11"-11 3/4"-13" (14 1/4"-15 3/4"-17 1/4"-19")
All measurements in charts are in cm.
MATERIALS:
DROPS SKY from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
100-100-100 (150-150-150-150) g color 11, hazelnut
50-50-50 (50-50-50-50) g color 03, light beige
A left-over of color 05, black for the eyes
KNITTING GAUGE:
20 stitches in width and 26 rows in height with stockinette stitch = 10 x 10 cm = 4” x 4”.
NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 4.5 MM = US 7.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4.5 MM = US 7: Length 40 cm = 16”, 60 cm = 24” or 80 cm = 32” for stockinette stitch.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3.5 MM = US 4.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3.5 MM = US 4: Length 40 cm = 16”, 60 cm = 24” or 80 cm = 32” for rib.
Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a smaller needle size.
DROPS BUTTONS, Cedar NO 513: 4 items in all sizes.
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Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here.
There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here.
For this pattern in British English, please click here.
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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:
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RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge in height = Knit 2 rows.
PATTERN:
Diagrams A.1 to A.3 – choose diagram for your size.
The whole of diagram A.1 is worked in stockinette stitch. The diagrams show all rows in the pattern from the right side.
When working with 2 colors, work with more than 1 strand of each color to avoid long strands on the wrong side. You can use the strand from both the inside and outside of the ball. I.e. the first part of A.1 is knitted with 5 threads (1 thread hazelnut, 1 thread light beige, 1 thread hazelnut, 1 thread light beige, 1 thread hazelnut), the rest of A.1 is knitted with 3 threads ( 1 thread hazelnut, 1 thread light beige, 1 thread hazelnut)
NOTE: To avoid holes when changing color, twist the 2 strands together.
Diagrams A.2 and A.3 show how the ears are sewn with duplicate stitches.
INCREASE TIP:
All increases are worked from the right side!
Increase 1 stitch after marker 1, work until there is 1 stitch left before markers 2, 3 and 4, 1 yarn over, work 2 stitches (markers sit between these 2 stitches), 1 yarn over and increase 1 stitch before marker 5 (= 8 stitches increased).
Increase by making 1 yarn over, which is worked twisted on the next row to avoid holes.
DECREASE TIP (for sleeves):
Decrease 1 stitch on each side of the marker as follows: Work until there are 3 stitches left before the marker, knit 2 together, knit 2 (marker sits between these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch (= 2 stitches decreased).
BINDING-OFF TIP:
To avoid the bind-off edge being tight you can bind off with a larger size needle. If the edge is still tight, make 1 yarn over after approx. each 4th stitch at the same time as binding off and the yarn overs are bind off as normal stitches.
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START THE PIECE HERE:
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SWEATER – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The piece is worked top down. The yoke is worked back and forth with circular needle, before it is divided for sleeves and body. The body is continued back and forth with circular needle. The sleeves are worked in the round with double pointed needles.
YOKE:
Cast on 56-60-60 (68-72-72-76) stitches (including 1 edge stitch on each side) with circular needle size 3.5 mm = US 4 and hazelnut. Purl 1 row from the wrong side. Then work rib as follows: Work 1 edge stitch in GARTER STITCH – read description above, * knit 2, purl 2 *, work from *-* until there are 3 stitches left, knit 2 and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. When the rib measures 1½ to 2 cm = 1/2” to 3/4”, change to circular needle size 4.5 mm = US 7.
Insert 5 markers in the piece and increase evenly from the right side as follows:
Work 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, knit 1, insert marker 1, knit 7 and increase 2-4-2 (2-2-2-2) stitches evenly, insert marker 2 (= left sleeve), knit 21-23-23 (27-29-29-31) and increase 2-2-2 (1-1-2-1) stitches evenly, insert marker 3 (= back piece), knit 8 and increase 2-4-2 (2-2-2-2) stitches evenly, insert marker 4 (= right sleeve), knit 16-18-18 (22-24-24-26) and increase 2-2-2 (1-1-2-1) stitches evenly, insert marker 5, knit 1 and finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch = 64-72-68 (74-78-80-82) stitches.
Continue with stockinette stitch and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side and increase to raglan on each row from the right side as follows:
Increase at each marker – read INCREASE TIP, a total of 13-14-15 (16-17-18-19) times = 168-184-188 (202-214-224-234) stitches. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE!
Work until the piece measures 12-13-15 (16-17-18-19) cm = 4 3/4”-5 1/8”-6” (6 1/4”-6 3/4”-7”-7 1/2”) from the cast-on edge. Now divide the piece for body and sleeves on the next row from the right side as follows:
Work 1 stitch in garter stitch, place the next 36-40-40 (42-44-46-48) stitches on 1 thread for the sleeve and cast on 4-4-6 (6-6-6-6) stitches under the sleeve, knit 49-53-55 (60-64-67-70) stitches (= back piece), place the next 36-40-40 (42-44-46-48) stitches on 1 thread for the sleeve and cast on 4-4-6 (6-6-6-6) stitches under the sleeve, knit 45-49-51 (56-60-63-66) stitches, 1 stitch in garter stitch and cast on 4-4-4 (4-4-4-5) stitches at the end of the row = 108-116-124 (134-142-148-155) stitches.
BODY:
Continue back and forth with stockinette stitch and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side until the piece measures 0-0-0 (0-1-2-3) cm = 0”-0”-0” (0”-3/8”-3/4”-1 1/8”) from the division. Now work A.1 on the front piece as follows:
Work 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, stockinette stitch over 62-68-72 (76-82-84-89) stitches, A.1 (= 35-35-39 (46-46-51-51) stitches), stockinette stitch over 9-11-11 (10-12-11-13) stitches and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch.
Continue this pattern. When A.1 has been worked 1 time in height, finish the piece with hazelnut. Work stockinette stitch with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side until the piece measures 12-13-14 (17-20-22-25) cm = 4 3/4”-5 1/8”-5 1/2” (6 3/4”-8”-8 3/4”-9 3/4”) from the division.
On the next row from the right side increase 2-2-2 (0-0-2-3) stitches evenly spaced = 110-118-126 (134-142-150-158) stitches.
Change to circular needle size 3.5 mm = US 4. On the next row from the right side work rib as follows: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, * knit 2, purl 2 *, work from *-* until there is 1 stitch left and finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Bind off with knit from the right side when the rib measures 3 cm = 1 1/8” – read BINDING-OFF TIP. The sweater measures approx. 28-30-33 (36-40-44-48) cm = 11”-11 3/4”-13” (14 1/4”-15 3/4”-17 1/4”-19”) from the shoulder down.
SLEEVE:
Place the 36-40-40 (42-44-46-48) stitches from the thread on the one side of the piece on double pointed needles size 4.5 mm = US 7 and knit up 1 stitch in each of the 4-4-6 (6-6-6-6) stitches cast on under the sleeve = 40-44-46 (48-50-52-54) stitches. Insert 1 marker in the middle of the 4-4-6 (6-6-6-6) stitches under the sleeve. Allow the marker to follow your work onwards; it will be used when decreasing under the sleeve. Work stockinette stitch in the round.
When the sleeve measures 2 cm = 3/4” from the division decrease 1 stitch on each side of the marker – read DECREASE TIP! Decrease like this every 2-2-1½ (2½-3½-4-5) cm = 3/4”-3/4”-1/2” (7/8”-1 1/4”-1 1/2”-2”) a total of 3-4-5 (5-5-5-5) times = 34-36-36 (38-40-42-44) stitches. When the sleeve measures 10-12-13 (16-21-25-28) cm = 4”-4 3/4”-5 1/8 (6 1/4”-8 1/4”-9 3/4”-11”) from the division decrease 2-0-0 (2-0-2-0) stitches evenly spaced = 32-36-36 (36-40-40-44) stitches. Change to double pointed needles size 3.5 mm = US 4 and work rib (= knit 2, purl 2). Bind off with knit when the rib measures 3 cm = 1 1/8”. Work the other sleeve in the same way.
RAGLAN-BAND:
Knit up from the right side approx. 28 to 36 stitches (divisible by 4) inside the 1 edge stitch along the sleeve’s raglan-opening with circular needle size 3.5 mm = US 4 and hazelnut.
Work rib (= knit 2, purl 2) with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch and 2 knitted stitches on each side (seen from the right side).
When the band measures 2 cm = 3/4”, bind off with knit over knit and purl over purl.
Repeat along the raglan-opening on the front piece but when the band measures 1 cm = 3/8” work 4 buttonholes evenly spaced. 1 buttonhole = purl 2 together in the purled section, (seen from the right side) and make 1 yarn over.
ASSEMBLY:
Sew the side seam inside the 1 edge stitch.
Embroider the fox’s eyes and nose on the front piece using black.
The ears are sewn using duplicate stitches and light beige, according to diagrams A.2 and A.3.
The stitches are sewn top down. The stitch with the arrow and a star in diagrams A.2 and A.3, is sewn approx. 2 rows above the stitch with the arrow and a star in A.1.
Sew the bands at the bottom of the raglan-openings (this is where the body starts) – the band on the front piece should lie over the band on the sleeve. Sew buttons onto the band on the sleeve.
EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:
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RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge in height = Knit 2 rows.
PATTERN:
Diagrams A.1 to A.3 – choose diagram for your size.
The whole of diagram A.1 is worked in stockinette stitch. The diagrams show all rows in the pattern from the right side.
When working with 2 colors, work with more than 1 strand of each color to avoid long strands on the wrong side. You can use the strand from both the inside and outside of the ball. I.e. the first part of A.1 is knitted with 5 threads (1 thread hazelnut, 1 thread light beige, 1 thread hazelnut, 1 thread light beige, 1 thread hazelnut), the rest of A.1 is knitted with 3 threads ( 1 thread hazelnut, 1 thread light beige, 1 thread hazelnut)
NOTE: To avoid holes when changing color, twist the 2 strands together.
Diagrams A.2 and A.3 show how the ears are sewn with duplicate stitches.
INCREASE TIP:
All increases are worked from the right side!
Increase 1 stitch after marker 1, work until there is 1 stitch left before markers 2, 3 and 4, 1 yarn over, work 2 stitches (markers sit between these 2 stitches), 1 yarn over and increase 1 stitch before marker 5 (= 8 stitches increased).
Increase by making 1 yarn over, which is worked twisted on the next row to avoid holes.
DECREASE TIP (for sleeves):
Decrease 1 stitch on each side of the marker as follows: Work until there are 3 stitches left before the marker, knit 2 together, knit 2 (marker sits between these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch (= 2 stitches decreased).
BINDING-OFF TIP:
To avoid the bind-off edge being tight you can bind off with a larger size needle. If the edge is still tight, make 1 yarn over after approx. each 4th stitch at the same time as binding off and the yarn overs are bind off as normal stitches.
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START THE PIECE HERE:
-------------------------------------------------------
SWEATER – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The piece is worked top down. The yoke is worked back and forth with circular needle, before it is divided for sleeves and body. The body is continued back and forth with circular needle. The sleeves are worked in the round with double pointed needles.
YOKE:
Cast on 56-60-60 (68-72-72-76) stitches (including 1 edge stitch on each side) with circular needle size 3.5 mm = US 4 and hazelnut. Purl 1 row from the wrong side. Then work rib as follows: Work 1 edge stitch in GARTER STITCH – read description above, * knit 2, purl 2 *, work from *-* until there are 3 stitches left, knit 2 and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. When the rib measures 1½ to 2 cm = 1/2” to 3/4”, change to circular needle size 4.5 mm = US 7.
Insert 5 markers in the piece and increase evenly from the right side as follows:
Work 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, knit 1, insert marker 1, knit 7 and increase 2-4-2 (2-2-2-2) stitches evenly, insert marker 2 (= left sleeve), knit 21-23-23 (27-29-29-31) and increase 2-2-2 (1-1-2-1) stitches evenly, insert marker 3 (= back piece), knit 8 and increase 2-4-2 (2-2-2-2) stitches evenly, insert marker 4 (= right sleeve), knit 16-18-18 (22-24-24-26) and increase 2-2-2 (1-1-2-1) stitches evenly, insert marker 5, knit 1 and finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch = 64-72-68 (74-78-80-82) stitches.
Continue with stockinette stitch and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side and increase to raglan on each row from the right side as follows:
Increase at each marker – read INCREASE TIP, a total of 13-14-15 (16-17-18-19) times = 168-184-188 (202-214-224-234) stitches. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE!
Work until the piece measures 12-13-15 (16-17-18-19) cm = 4 3/4”-5 1/8”-6” (6 1/4”-6 3/4”-7”-7 1/2”) from the cast-on edge. Now divide the piece for body and sleeves on the next row from the right side as follows:
Work 1 stitch in garter stitch, place the next 36-40-40 (42-44-46-48) stitches on 1 thread for the sleeve and cast on 4-4-6 (6-6-6-6) stitches under the sleeve, knit 49-53-55 (60-64-67-70) stitches (= back piece), place the next 36-40-40 (42-44-46-48) stitches on 1 thread for the sleeve and cast on 4-4-6 (6-6-6-6) stitches under the sleeve, knit 45-49-51 (56-60-63-66) stitches, 1 stitch in garter stitch and cast on 4-4-4 (4-4-4-5) stitches at the end of the row = 108-116-124 (134-142-148-155) stitches.
BODY:
Continue back and forth with stockinette stitch and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side until the piece measures 0-0-0 (0-1-2-3) cm = 0”-0”-0” (0”-3/8”-3/4”-1 1/8”) from the division. Now work A.1 on the front piece as follows:
Work 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, stockinette stitch over 62-68-72 (76-82-84-89) stitches, A.1 (= 35-35-39 (46-46-51-51) stitches), stockinette stitch over 9-11-11 (10-12-11-13) stitches and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch.
Continue this pattern. When A.1 has been worked 1 time in height, finish the piece with hazelnut. Work stockinette stitch with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side until the piece measures 12-13-14 (17-20-22-25) cm = 4 3/4”-5 1/8”-5 1/2” (6 3/4”-8”-8 3/4”-9 3/4”) from the division.
On the next row from the right side increase 2-2-2 (0-0-2-3) stitches evenly spaced = 110-118-126 (134-142-150-158) stitches.
Change to circular needle size 3.5 mm = US 4. On the next row from the right side work rib as follows: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, * knit 2, purl 2 *, work from *-* until there is 1 stitch left and finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Bind off with knit from the right side when the rib measures 3 cm = 1 1/8” – read BINDING-OFF TIP. The sweater measures approx. 28-30-33 (36-40-44-48) cm = 11”-11 3/4”-13” (14 1/4”-15 3/4”-17 1/4”-19”) from the shoulder down.
SLEEVE:
Place the 36-40-40 (42-44-46-48) stitches from the thread on the one side of the piece on double pointed needles size 4.5 mm = US 7 and knit up 1 stitch in each of the 4-4-6 (6-6-6-6) stitches cast on under the sleeve = 40-44-46 (48-50-52-54) stitches. Insert 1 marker in the middle of the 4-4-6 (6-6-6-6) stitches under the sleeve. Allow the marker to follow your work onwards; it will be used when decreasing under the sleeve. Work stockinette stitch in the round.
When the sleeve measures 2 cm = 3/4” from the division decrease 1 stitch on each side of the marker – read DECREASE TIP! Decrease like this every 2-2-1½ (2½-3½-4-5) cm = 3/4”-3/4”-1/2” (7/8”-1 1/4”-1 1/2”-2”) a total of 3-4-5 (5-5-5-5) times = 34-36-36 (38-40-42-44) stitches. When the sleeve measures 10-12-13 (16-21-25-28) cm = 4”-4 3/4”-5 1/8 (6 1/4”-8 1/4”-9 3/4”-11”) from the division decrease 2-0-0 (2-0-2-0) stitches evenly spaced = 32-36-36 (36-40-40-44) stitches. Change to double pointed needles size 3.5 mm = US 4 and work rib (= knit 2, purl 2). Bind off with knit when the rib measures 3 cm = 1 1/8”. Work the other sleeve in the same way.
RAGLAN-BAND:
Knit up from the right side approx. 28 to 36 stitches (divisible by 4) inside the 1 edge stitch along the sleeve’s raglan-opening with circular needle size 3.5 mm = US 4 and hazelnut.
Work rib (= knit 2, purl 2) with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch and 2 knitted stitches on each side (seen from the right side).
When the band measures 2 cm = 3/4”, bind off with knit over knit and purl over purl.
Repeat along the raglan-opening on the front piece but when the band measures 1 cm = 3/8” work 4 buttonholes evenly spaced. 1 buttonhole = purl 2 together in the purled section, (seen from the right side) and make 1 yarn over.
ASSEMBLY:
Sew the side seam inside the 1 edge stitch.
Embroider the fox’s eyes and nose on the front piece using black.
The ears are sewn using duplicate stitches and light beige, according to diagrams A.2 and A.3.
The stitches are sewn top down. The stitch with the arrow and a star in diagrams A.2 and A.3, is sewn approx. 2 rows above the stitch with the arrow and a star in A.1.
Sew the bands at the bottom of the raglan-openings (this is where the body starts) – the band on the front piece should lie over the band on the sleeve. Sew buttons onto the band on the sleeve.
Diagram
All measurements in charts are in cm.
|
= knit from right side, purl from wrong side with light beige |
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= knit from right side, purl from wrong side with hazelnut |
|
= this stitch is sewn with duplicate stitches for the ear using light beige |
|
= the arrows mark where the ears sit in relation to the pattern |
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What can you do with our patterns? You can share DROPS patterns online, using the pattern original picture, materials, name and number. But you are NOT ALLOWED to reproduce the complete pattern digitally in any way. Yarn stores are welcome to use the DROPS pattern database to promote the sale of our assortment. You can print out our patterns, make as many copies as you’d like. The only thing we ask is that you don't make any changes / additions to the original printed document. And that the patterns according to the DROPS philosophy are given out to the consumers for free. Editorials that wish to publish our patterns in printed books or magazines can contact us for more information. The sale of garments based on DROPS patterns is permitted as long as they are sold as single items or per order. Further commercial use of the patterns is not permitted. It has to be clearly stated that the garment is made based on a design from DROPS DESIGN. The use of clothing labels of which DROPS DESIGN forms part is conditioned by the inclusion of the following text: “A DROPS DESIGN made by …..”. The use of DROPS photos for marketing purposes/sales is only permitted in connection with the use/sale of DROPS products. The photos may not be cut or edited and the logo should be clearly visible.
We reserve the right to withdraw the permission for use of our patterns at any time, notwithstanding the reason.
What can you do with our patterns? You can share DROPS patterns online, using the pattern original picture, materials, name and number. But you are NOT ALLOWED to reproduce the complete pattern digitally in any way. Yarn stores are welcome to use the DROPS pattern database to promote the sale of our assortment. You can print out our patterns, make as many copies as you’d like. The only thing we ask is that you don't make any changes / additions to the original printed document. And that the patterns according to the DROPS philosophy are given out to the consumers for free. Editorials that wish to publish our patterns in printed books or magazines can contact us for more information. The sale of garments based on DROPS patterns is permitted as long as they are sold as single items or per order. Further commercial use of the patterns is not permitted. It has to be clearly stated that the garment is made based on a design from DROPS DESIGN. The use of clothing labels of which DROPS DESIGN forms part is conditioned by the inclusion of the following text: “A DROPS DESIGN made by …..”. The use of DROPS photos for marketing purposes/sales is only permitted in connection with the use/sale of DROPS products. The photos may not be cut or edited and the logo should be clearly visible.
We reserve the right to withdraw the permission for use of our patterns at any time, notwithstanding the reason.
With over 30 years in knitting and crochet design, DROPS Design offers one of the most extensive collections of free patterns on the internet - translated to 17 languages. As of today we count 299 catalogs and 11233 patterns - 11229 of which are translated into English (US/in).
We work hard to bring you the best knitting and crochet have to offer, inspiration and advice as well as great quality yarns at incredible prices! Would you like to use our patterns for other than personal use? You can read what you are allowed to do in the Copyright text at the bottom of all our patterns. Happy crafting!
Hallo, ich verstehe nicht, warum das Rumpfteil in Hin und Rückreihen gestrickt wird und nicht rund? Der Schlitz ist doch bei Teilung in Ärmel und rumpfteil fertig, oder?
15.11.2023 - 20:58Hallo, ich verstehe nicht, warum das Rumpfteil in Hin und Rückreihen gestrickt wird und nicht rund? Der Schlitz ist doch bei Teilung in Ärmel und rumpfteil fertig, oder?
15.11.2023 - 20:55DROPS Design answered:
Liebe Frau Widera, man muss hier in Reihen wegen dem Muster stricken, da das Muster A.1 nur beim Vorderteil ist, wird es in Hin- und Rückreihen weitergestrickt. Viel Spaß beim stricken!
16.11.2023 - 09:59Hi, I am knitting this jumper size 18mth. I have a question about the yoke part. I did the increase reach 188 stitches. By then the piece should be 15cm long, before dividing body and sleeves on the next row from the right side. However, my piece is 13cm long instead 15cm. Should I move on with the division anyways? Or continue knitting for 2cm while continuing the increase at each marker? Or continue knitting for 2cm with no increase? Thank you!
15.10.2023 - 12:32DROPS Design answered:
Dear Billie, as you can see in the next sentence, you haven't reached 15cm after finishing the increase; you need to work straight (with no increases) until the piece measures 15cm. Then, you will working the division. "Increase at each marker .... =168-184-188 (202-214-224-234) stitches. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! Work until the piece measures 12-13-15 (16-17-18-19) cm from the cast-on edge. " Happy knitting!
15.10.2023 - 23:16Ett krångligt mönster! Svårt att förstå uppläggningarna under armarna! Enligt mönstret ska jag lägga upp 4 maskor under ärmarna 3 gånger!? I början, ca på mitten och på slutet! Annars är det jag som fattar fel.
04.10.2023 - 15:44Hej og en. Tak for hurtigt svar, det blev jeg glad for. Vh Lis
17.03.2023 - 16:40Hvordan slår man de 6 masker op under ærmet? Vh Lis
16.03.2023 - 16:31DROPS Design answered:
Hej Lis, Her ser du en video hvordan man strikke oppefra og ned med raglan, vi viser også hvordan man slår masker op under ærmerne : Bluse strikket oppefra og ned
17.03.2023 - 08:56I still don't understand the diagrams. The A1 diagram is the face of the fox only. A2 and A3 appear to have the ear diagrams. How does this work together, when one seems to be on a different scale, and where do I begin the contrast yarn for the ears?
23.02.2023 - 22:18DROPS Design answered:
Dear Beverly, after the jumper is done, embroider A.2 and A.3 so that the stitch with an arrow in A.2/A.3 is approx. 2 rows above the stitch with an arrow and a star in A.1 - see ASSEMBLY. Happy knitting!
24.02.2023 - 10:03I see the instruction to begin the chart A.1 but not A.3. Do I just begin A.3 when it tells me to begin A.1? Thanks for your help
20.02.2023 - 19:00DROPS Design answered:
Dear Beverly, diagrams A.2 and A.3 are not knitted, they just show how to embroider the ears with duplicate stitches when jumper is done - see ASSEMBLY. Happy knitting!
21.02.2023 - 10:03Ik weet niet wat ik moet doen als er staat: cast on 4-4-6 (6-6-6-6) stitches under the sleeve. Waar komen deze steken bij? Bij de body of op de hulpnaald? I don't know what to do when it says: cast on 4-4-6 (6-6-6-6) stitches under the sleeve. Where do these stitches go? Do the join the body stitches or do they go on the thread?
22.01.2023 - 14:05DROPS Design answered:
Dag Jonne,
Als je bij het lijf bent dan komen deze tussen het voorpand en het achterpand, dus in de zijnaad. Ze zitten eigenlijk precies op het punt van de oksel. Als je de mouw breit zet je op deze plek ook een aantal steken op. Op het einde wordt deze opening in de oksel dicht genaaid.
22.01.2023 - 17:24I'm back with another question 😊 The pattern for the yoke says: Then work rib as follows: Work 1 edge stitch in GARTER STITCH – read description above, * knit 2, purl 2 *, work from *-* until there are 3 stitches left, knit 2 and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Should I follow this pattern on both the right and wrong sides?
06.01.2023 - 23:44DROPS Design answered:
Dear Shilps, this is the rib, which is worked as it's seen. For example, if you have knit 2 on the right side, when turning the work, it will look like purl 2. So, you work purl 2 over these stitches. Happy knitting!
07.01.2023 - 19:33