DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk
DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk
77% Alpaca, 23% Silk
from 3.95 $ /25g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 27.65$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS SS24

Golden Vintage Jacket

Knitted jacket in DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk. Piece is knitted with star pattern. Size: S - XXXL

Highlight Size:
DROPS 207-33
DROPS design: Pattern as-117
Yarn group C or A + A
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SIZE:
S - M - L - XL - XXL – XXXL

Finished measurements:
Chest measurements: 92-102-110-118-134-144 cm = 36¼"-40"-43⅜"-46½"-52¾"-56½"
Full length: 52-54-56-58-60-62 cm = 20½"-21¼"-22"-22¾"-23⅝"-24⅜"

All measurements in chart are in cm.

MATERIALS:
DROPS BRUSHED ALPACA SILK from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
175-175-200-225-225-250 g color no 19, curry

KNITTING GAUGE:
19 stitches in width and 22 rows vertically with star pattern = 10 x 10 cm = 4" x 4".

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 5.5 mm = US 9
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 5.5 mm = US 9: Length 40 and 80 cm = 16" and 32" for star pattern.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 4.5 mm = US 7
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4.5 mm = US 7: Length 80 cm = 32" for rib.
Needle size is only a suggestion! If you have too many stitches on 10 cm = 4" switch to larger needles. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm = 4" switch to smaller needles.

DROPS MOTHER-OF-PEARL BUTTON ARCHED (white), NO 522: 5-5-5-5-6-6 pieces

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk
DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk
77% Alpaca, 23% Silk
from 3.95 $ /25g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 27.65$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
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EXPLANATION FOR THE PATTERN:

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GARTER STITCH (back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge vertically = knit 2 rows.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 and A.2.

BIND OFF TIP:
To avoid a tight bind-off edge you may use a needle ½ size larger.

INCREASE TIP (applies to mid under sleeve):
Begin 1 stitch before marker thread, make 1 yarn over, work 2 stitches (marker thread is in the middle of these 2 stitches), make 1 yarn over (= 2 stitches increased). On next round work yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. Then work the new stitches in stockinette stitch until there is room for 1 new repetition of A.1 in width.

BUTTONHOLES (bottom up):
Decrease for buttonholes on right band. 1 BUTTONHOLE = knit third and fourth stitch from edge together and make 1 yarn over. On next row knit yarn over = hole.
Decrease for buttonholes when piece measures:
S: 16, 23, 30 and 37 cm = 6¼", 9", 11¾" and 14½"
M: 16, 24, 31 and 39 cm = 6¼", 9½", 12¼" and 15¼"
L: 16, 24, 32 and 40 cm = 6¼", 9½", 12½" and 15¾"
XL: 16, 24, 32 and 40 cm = 6¼", 9½", 12½" and 15¾"
XXL: 16, 23, 30, 37 and 44 cm = 6¼", 9", 11¾", 14½" and 17¼"
XXXL: 16, 23, 30, 37 and 44 cm = 6¼", 9", 11¾", 14½" and 17¼"
NOTE! Dec the last buttonhole on neck edge.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JACKET - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
Work back and forth from mid front, bottom up to armholes. Then work front pieces and back piece back and forth on circular needle separately. Work sleeves in the round on double pointed needles/a short circular needle.

BODY:
Cast on 192-208-224-240-272-288 stitches (including 5 band stitches towards mid front) on circular needle size 4.5 mm = US 7 with Brushed Alpaca Silk. Purl 1 row from wrong side. Then work rib as follows from right side: 5 band stitches in GARTER STITCH - read explanation above - * knit 2, purl 2 *, repeat from *-* until 7 stitches remain, knit 2 and finish with 5 band stitches in garter stitch. Continue like this until rib measures 3 cm = 1⅛". Switch to circular needle size 5.5 mm = US 9 and purl 1 row from wrong side while decreasing 5 stitches evenly (do not decrease over band stitches) = 187-203-219-235-267-283 stitches.
Work next row as follows - from right side:
Work 5 band stitches in garter stitch, work A.1 until 6 stitches remain (= 44-48-52-56-64-68 repetitions of 4 stitches), work A.2 (= 1 stitch) and finish with 5 band stitches in garter stitch. Continue pattern like this - AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 16 cm = 6¼", begin decrease for BUTTONHOLES – see explanation above. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE! When piece measures 35-36-37-38-39-40 cm = 13¾"-14¼"-14½"-15"-15¼"-15¾" bind-off for armholes, i.e. work next row from right side as follows:
Work 47-51-55-55-63-67 stitches as before (= right front piece), bind off the next 6-6-6-14-14-14 stitches for armhole, work 81-89-97-97-113-121 stitches as before (= back piece), bind off the next 6-6-6-14-14-14 stitches for armhole and work the remaining 47-51-55-55-63-67 stitches as before (= left front piece).

RIGHT FRONT PIECE (when garment is worn):
= 47-51-55-55-63-67 stitches. Continue with 5 band stitches in garter stitch and pattern as before, work edge stitch in the side towards armhole in garter stitch. Continue to work until piece measures 42-44-45-47-48-50 cm = 16½"-17¼"-17¾"-18½"-19"-19¾". Now slip the outermost 14-14-15-15-16-16 stitches on 1 stitch holder for neck but to avoid cutting the yarn work the stitches before slipping them on the stitch holder.
Continue to bind off for neck at beginning of every row from neck as follows: Bind off 3 stitches 1 time, 2 stitches 2 times, and 1 stitch 1 time = 25-29-32-32-39-43 stitches remain on shoulder. Continue until piece measures 52-54-56-58-60-62 cm = 20½"-21¼"-22"-22¾"-23⅝"-24⅜" and bind off - adjust to finish on 1 row without pattern, bind off - read BIND-OFF TIP.

LEFT FRONT PIECE (when garment is worn):
Work the same way as right front piece.

BACK PIECE:
= 81-89-97-97-113-121 stitches. Continue with pattern as before, the edge stitch in each side is worked in garter stitch. When piece measures 50-52-54-56-58-60 cm = 19¾"-20½"-21¼"-22"-22¾"-23⅝", bind off the middle 29-29-31-31-33-33 stitches for neck and finish each shoulder separately. Bind off 1 stitch on next row towards the neck = 25-29-32-32-39-43 stitches remain on the shoulder. Continue until piece measures 52-54-56-58-60-62 cm = 20½"-21¼"-22"-22¾"-23⅝"-24⅜" - adjust according to front pieces, bind off. Work the other shoulder the same way.

SLEEVE:
Cast on 52-56-60-64-68-72 stitches on double pointed needles size 4.5 mm = US 7 with Brushed Alpaca Silk. Knit 1 round, then work rib = knit 2/purl 2 for 3 cm = 1⅛". Switch to double pointed needles size 5.5 mm = US 9 and knit 1 round while decreasing 4 stitches evenly = 48-52-56-60-64-68 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread at beginning of round, use this for increases mid under sleeve. Work A.1 in the round (= 12-13-14-15-16-17 repetitions of 4 stitches). Continue this pattern. When piece measures 43-42-41-40-35-36 cm = 17"-16½"-16⅛"-15¾"-13¾"-14¼", increase 1 stitch in each side - read INCREASE TIP (= 2 stitches increased). Increase like this every other row 8 times in total = 64-68-72-76-80-84 stitches. Continue until piece measures 53-52-51-50-45-46 cm = 21"-20½"-20"-19¾"-17¾"-18" - adjust according to 1st or 3rd row in A.1. Now work back and forth on circular needle. Begin from wrong side and work pattern as before. Continue back and forth for 2-2-2-4-4-4 cm =3/4"-¾"-¾"-1½"-1½"-1½" - adjust to finish on 1 row without pattern - bind off. Work the other sleeve the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew shoulder seams inside bind-off edge. Sew in sleeves inside 1 edge stitch, and sew sleeve to the bottom of armhole.

NECK EDGE:
Pick up from right side approx. 80 to 88 stitches around the neck (including stitches on stitch holders at the front) on circular needle size 4.5 mm = US 7 with Brushed Alpaca Silk. Purl 1 row from wrong side (with 5 band stitches in garter stitch in each side) while adjusting number of stitches to 80-80-84-84-88-88. Then work rib as follows: 5 band stitches in garter stitch, * knit 2, purl 2 *, repeat from *-* until 7 stitches remain, knit 2 and 5 band stitches in garter stitch. Work rib like this for 3 cm = 1⅛". Bind off with knit over knit and purl.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = knit from the right side, purl from the wrong side
symbols = purl from the right side, knit from the wrong side
symbols = knit 3 together (right side) without lifting them off the needle, make 1 yarn over, knit 3 together in same 3 stitches and drop them off the needle (= 3 stitches)
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (19)

country flag Esmée wrote:

Hallo, is het mogelijk om dit vestje gewoon in tricotsteek te breien of worden de verhoudingen dan heel anders? Mvg

29.05.2023 - 10:51

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Esméée,

Het zal geen groot verschil maken als je het vest in tricotsteek breit. Houd goed de stekenverhouding en de afmetingen in de gaten tijdens het breien.

01.06.2023 - 12:58

country flag Anna wrote:

Bonjour ! pour le col faut - il compter 80 (84-88) mailles y compris les 2 x 5 mailles au point mousse ou on compte les mailles au point mousse en plus de ces 80(84-88) mailles ?

11.10.2022 - 18:09

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Anna, tout à fait, les 14, 15 ou 16 mailles mises en attente pour l'encolure de chaque devant (y compris donc les 5 mailles de bordure devant) sont comprises dans ces 80 à 88 mailles. Bon tricot!

12.10.2022 - 08:36

country flag Anne wrote:

Liebes Team, verstehe ich es richtig, dass die Ärmel zunächst rund und dann offen gearbeitet werden? Mir ist nicht klar, wie die Ärmel dann eingesetzt werden- gibt es dazu ein Video? Falls nein, freue ich mich über eine genauere Erklärung. Danke schonmal...

03.09.2021 - 21:30

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Anne, ja genau, so wird die Ärmel gestrickt. Dieses Video zeigt, wie man die Ärmel zuerst in Runden dann in Hin- Und Rückreihen strickt, und wie die Ärmel dann in das Rumpfteil eingenäht wird. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

06.09.2021 - 07:12

country flag Kathi wrote:

Liebes Drops-Team, ich habe noch eine Frage zum Abketten: sollen dann in der ersten Reihe 3 Maschen abgekettet werden, und in der zweiten Reihe 4 Maschen und zuletzt noch mal 1 Masche? Oder wie ist das gemeint? Vielen Dank, LG, Kathi

08.03.2021 - 11:10

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Kathi, bei der nächsten Reihe von der Blende bis Schulter (Rückreihe bei linkem Vorderteil, Hinreihe bei rechtem Vorderteil), ketten Sie diese Maschen: so 3 Maschen 1 Mal, dann 2 Maschen 2 Mal (=zuerst 2 M dann 2 M bei der nächsten Reihe von Hals), und dann 1 M 1 Mal. Alle diese Maschen sollen in jeder 2. Reihe von der Halsblende abgekettet werden (= zwischen den Maschen auf dem Hilfsfaden und den Maschen auf der Nadel). Viel Spaß beim stricken!

08.03.2021 - 13:03

country flag Kathi wrote:

Liebes Drops-Team, ich habe zwei Fragen zum rechten Vorderteil. Wie ist es gemeint, dass die Maschen für den Halsausschnitt vor dem Stilllegen gestrickt werden sollen? Und wie ist die Reihenfolge zum Abketten gemeint: 3 Maschen 1 x, 2 Maschen 2 x, und 1 Masche 1 x ? Wie soll hierbei gestrickt werden? Liebe Grüße, Kathi

07.03.2021 - 01:18

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Kathi, bei dem rechten Vorderteil stricken Sie die ersten 14-15-16 Maschen einer Hinreihe und legen diese Maschen still, dann stricken Sie die restlichen Maschen der Hinreihe, wenden Sie und stricken Sie die Rückreihe. Dann, am Anfang jeder Hinreihe werden Sie Machen für Halsausschnitt abketten: 3 M x 1, 2 M x 2, 1 M x 1. Die stillgelegten Maschen stricken Sie später bei der Halsblende. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

08.03.2021 - 08:30

country flag Anne wrote:

Liebes Team, ich habe 2 Fragen zum Modell: 1. wie arbeite ich den Anschlag am besten, so dass er nicht zu eng wird? Ich habe das Original-Garn verwendet und den Anschlag wie immer mit doppelter Nadel gemacht. Das flauschige Garn führt aber dazu, dass die Anschlagsreihe sehr eng ist weil nicht gleitet (das Problem habe ich sonst nie..) 2. werden Randmaschen einfach zusätzlich angefügt, oder statt der 1. und letzten Blenden_Masche gestrickt? Vielen Dank für Eure Hilfe 💕.

30.01.2021 - 00:40

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Anne, wenn Ihr Anschlag zu eng ist können Sie versuchen, die Maschen mit einer grösseren Nadeln anzuschlagen und dann bei der 1. Reihe mit der Nadel 4,5 weiterstricken. Alle Maschen sind inbegriffen/eingeschlossen, es sind keine Randmasche beim Rumpfteil, die 5 Maschen beidseitig werden für die Blendemaschen kraus rechts gestrickt. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

01.02.2021 - 08:16

country flag Ingrid wrote:

Hej är det alltså vart 3:e varv man stickar diagrammet med spetsmönster? Och då 3 v med räta m innan varje sådant mönstervarv?

20.01.2021 - 14:18

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Ingrid. Ta en titt på hjelpevideoen til dette mønstret: mvh DROPS design

27.01.2021 - 14:15

country flag Carolyn Williams wrote:

Is it possible to knit this sweater from the bottom up in one piece until the arm holes?

07.09.2020 - 22:36

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Williams, that's the way the jacket is worked: you cast on stitches for both front pieces + back piece and work to armhole, then cast off stitches for armholes and finish each piece separately. Happy knitting!

08.09.2020 - 10:25

country flag Lagrange wrote:

Bonjour je ne comprends pas au moment de tricoter le diagramme A1 il faut faire le rang 1 au point endroit ce qui donne en dessous du rang 3 du Jersey c’est bien ça? Ou je dois tricoter en côte 2/2?

21.04.2020 - 23:02

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Lagrange, le 1er rang de A.1 se tricote sur l'endroit, A.1 commence donc par 2 rangs jersey, 1 rang sur l'endroit avec (1 m env, tricotez les 3 m suivantes 2 fois à l'end avec 1 jeté entre), et 1 rang sur l'envers = 4 rangs. Cette vidéo montre comment tricoter ce point. Bon tricot!

22.04.2020 - 08:29

country flag Marimar wrote:

Bonjour, Pouvez vous m'expliquer comment je peux faire pour : " tricoter 3 mailles ensemble à l'endroit (sur l'endroit) sans les lâcher de l’aiguille, faire 1 jeté, 3 mailles ensemble à l'endroit dans les mêmes 3 mailles et lâcher ces mailles de l'aiguille gauche (= on a 3 mailles sur l'aiguille droite)" ? Car en fait j'ai le je te + les 3 mailles. Merci beaucoup

30.12.2019 - 23:02

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour! Tricoter 3 mailles ensemble à l'endroit (sur l'endroit) sans les lâcher de l’aiguille > 1 maille sur l'aiguille droite, faire 1 jeté > deuxieme maille sur l'aiguille droite, 3 mailles ensemble à l'endroit dans les mêmes 3 mailles > 3 mailles sur l'aiguille droite et lâcher ces mailles de l'aiguille gauche. Bon tricot!

31.12.2019 - 19:10