DROPS Lima
DROPS Lima
65% Wool, 35% Alpaca
from 3.30 $ /50g
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 36.30$. Read more.

Sunny Trails

Crocheted sweater with raglan in DROPS Lima. The piece is worked top down with stripes in texture with quadrouple-treble crochets. Sizes S - XXXL.

DROPS 207-28
DROPS Design: Pattern no li-111
Yarn group B
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SIZES:
S - M - L - XL - XXL – XXXL

Finished measurements:
Chest measurements: 96-102-110-120-132-146 cm = 37 3/4”-40”-43 3/8”-47 1/4”-52”-57 3/8”
Full length: 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm = 21 1/4"-22"-22 3/4"-23 5/8"-24 3/8"-25 1/4"

All measurements in charts are in cm.

MATERIALS:
DROPS LIMA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
550-600-650-700-750-850 g color 2923, goldenrod

CROCHET GAUGE:
16 double crochets in width and 8 rows in height = 10 x 10 cm = 4” x 4”.
Pattern A.2a measures approx. 4.5 cm = 1 3/4” in height.

CROCHET HOOK:
DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 4.5 MM = US 7.
Hook size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a larger hook size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a smaller hook size.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Lima
DROPS Lima
65% Wool, 35% Alpaca
from 3.30 $ /50g
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 36.30$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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CHAIN STITCH:
If you work outermost on the hook the chain stitch will often be too tight; 1 chain stitch should be as long as 1 single crochet is wide.

CROCHET INFORMATION:
At the beginning of each row of single crochets, replace the first single crochet with 1 chain stitch; i.e. skip the first stitch on the previous round. The round ends with 1 slip stitch in the first chain stitch at the beginning of the round.
At the beginning of each row of half-double crochets, replace the first half-double crochet with 2 chain stitches; i.e. skip the first stitch on the previous round. The round ends with 1 slip stitch in the 2nd chain stitch at the beginning of the round.
At the beginning of each row of double crochets, replace the first double crochet with 3 chain stitches; i.e. skip the first stitch on the previous round. The round ends with 1 slip stitch in the 3rd chain stitch at the beginning of the round.

INCREASE/DECREASE TIP (evenly spaced):
To work out how to increase/decrease evenly, count the total number of stitches on needle (e.g. 70 stitches) and divide by the number of increases/decreases to be made (e.g. 10) = 7. In this example, increase by working 2 stitches in the same stitch each 7th stitch. When decreasing, work together each 6th and 7th stitch.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.4.
A.1 and A.3 show how the rounds start and finish. Read CROCHET TIP.

CROCHET TIP:
If A.2a measures more than 4½ cm = 1 3/4” in height, replace the quadrouple-treble crochets with triple-treble crochets; i.e. make 1 less yarn over. Start the round with 6 chain stitches instead of 7.
If A.2a measures less than 4½ cm = 1 3/4” in height, replace the quadrouple-treble crochets with quintruple-treble crochets; i.e. make 1 more yarn over. Start the round with 8 chain stitches instead of 7.

RAGLAN:
RAGLAN:
Increase to raglan in each transition between body and sleeves as described below.
Increase 16 stitches on the round as follows:
After the marker thread: Work 1 stitch in the first stitch after the marker thread, then 2 stitches in each of the next 2 stitches (= 2 stitches increased).
Before the marker thread: Start 3 stitches before the marker thread, work 2 stitches in each of the first 2 stitches then 1 stitch in the stitch before the marker thread (= 2
stitches increased).
Increase 8 stitches on the round as follows:
After the marker thread: Work 1 stitch in the first stitch after the marker thread, then 2 stitches in the next stitch (= 1 stitch increased).
Before the marker thread: Start 2 stitches before the marker thread, work 2 stitches in the first stitch then 1 stitch in the stitch before the marker thread (= 1 stitch increased).


DECREASE TIP (for sleeves):
Decrease 1 double crochet on each side of the marker thread as follows: Work until there are 2 double crochets left before the marker thread, work 2 DOUBLE CROCHETS TOGETHER – read description below, 1 double crochet in each of the next 2 double crochets (the marker thread sits between these 2 stitches), work 2 double crochets together.

WORK 2 DOUBLE CROCHETS TOGETHER:
Work 1 double crochet but wait with the last yarn over and pull-through, work 1 more double crochet in the same way. Make 1 yarn over and pull through all the loops on the hook (= 1 double crochet decreased).

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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SWEATER – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The neck and yoke are worked in the round, top down. The yoke is divided for body and sleeves and the body continued in the round, top down. Sleeves are also worked in the round top down.

NECK:
Work 70-74-76-84-86-90 chain stitches – read CHAIN STITCH, with hook size 4.5 mm = US 7 and Lima and form them into a ring with 1 slip stitch in the first chain stitch. Work 1 single crochet in each chain stitch – read CROCHET INFORMATION = 70-74-76-84-86-90 single crochets.
Work 1 round of double crochets in the back loop of each single crochet. Then work 1 round of single crochets in the back loop of each double crochet at the same time as you increase 10-6-12-4-6-10 single crochets evenly spaced – read INCREASE/DECREASE TIP = 80-80-88-88-92-100 single crochets.
Work 1 round of single crochets in the back loop of each single crochet = 80-80-88-88-92-100 single crochets – REMEMBER THE CROCHET GAUGE!
Insert 4 marker threads (without working the stitches) as follows: Insert 1 marker thread at the beginning of the round, the second after the next 28-28-32-32-34-38 stitches (= back piece), the third after the next 12 stitches (= sleeve), the fourth after the next 28-28-32-32-34-38 stitches (= front piece), which leaves 12 stitches back to the first marker thread (= sleeve).

YOKE:
Work in the round according to the diagrams – read PATTERN, as follows:
Work A.1a (shows how the rounds start and finish), repeat A.2a to end of round – AT THE SAME TIME, on the first round, increase to RAGLAN in each transition between body and sleeves – read description above. Increase on each round as follows: Increase 16 stitches a total of 6-7-7-6-7-7 times, then increase 8 stitches a total of 6-7-8-13-13-15 times. When A.1a/A.2a have been worked a total of 3 times in height, work A.1b/A.2b, then continue with 1 double crochet in each stitch (through both loops).
After the last increase to raglan there are 224-248-264-288-308-332 double crochets on the round and the piece measures approx. 18-20-22-25-27-28 cm = 7”-8”-8 3/4”-9 3/4”-10 5/8”-11” from the neck. Continue working until the piece measures 21-23-25-27-29-31 cm = 8 1/4”-9”-9 3/4”-10 5/8”-11 3/8”-12 1/4”-12 1/4” from the neck.
The next round is worked as follows:
Work 67-73-78-85-92-101 double crochets (= back piece), 6-6-8-8-10-10 loose chain stitches (= in side under sleeve), skip 42-48-52-56-58-60 double crochets (= sleeve), work 70-76-80-88-96-106 double crochets (= front piece), 6-6-8-8-10-10 loose chain stitches (= in side under sleeve), skip 42-48-52-56-58-60 double crochets (= sleeve) and work the remaining 3-3-2-3-4-5 double crochets (= back piece). Then finish body and sleeves separately. Cut the strand. THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE!

BODY:
Start by working the 4th-4th-5th-5th-6th-6th chain stitch of the 6-6-8-8-10-10 chain stitches under the sleeve as follows: 1 slip stitch, 3 chain stitches (= 1 double crochet), 1 double crochet in each of the next 2-2-3-3-4-4 chain stitches, 1 double crochet in each double crochet, 1 double crochet in each of the 6-6-8-8-10-10 chain stitches under the sleeve, 1 double crochet in each double crochet and finally 1 double crochet in each of the last 3-3-4-4-5-5 chain stitches under the sleeve = 152-164-176-192-212-232 double crochets. Continue with double crochets in the round until the piece measures 30 cm = 11 3/4” from the division. Cut and fasten the strand. The sweater measures approx. 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm = 21 1/4"-22"-22 3/4"-23 5/8"-24 3/8"-25 1/4" from the shoulder down.

SLEEVE:
Start working in the 4th-4th-5th-5th-6th-6th chain stitch of the 6-6-8-8-10-10 chain stitches under the sleeve as follows: 1 slip stitch, 3 chain stitches (= 1 double crochet), 1 double crochet in each of the next 2-2-3-3-4-4 chain stitches, 1 double crochet in each double crochet and finish with 1 double crochet in each of the last 3-3-4-4-5-5 chain stitches under the sleeve = 48-54-60-64-68-70 double crochets. Insert 1 marker thread at the beginning of the round and continue in the round with double crochets. When you have worked 2 rounds from the division, decrease 2 double crochets mid under sleeve – read DECREASE TIP-1. Decrease like this every 3-2-1-1-1-1 rows a total of 4-6-8-10-11-11 times = 40-42-44-44-46-48 double crochets. Continue until the piece measures 41-39-38-36-34-33 cm = 16 1/8”-15 1/4”-15”-14 1/4”-13 3/8”-13” from the division (shorter measurements in the larger sizes due to wider neck and longer yoke). Work 1 round where you decrease 12-14-12-12-12-12 double crochets evenly spaced (by working 2 double crochets together) = 28-28-32-32-34-36 double crochets.
Continue in the round according to the diagrams as follows:
Work A.3 (shows how the rounds start and finish), repeat A.4 to end of round. Continue until A.3/A.4 have been completed, cut and fasten the strand. Work the other sleeve in the same way.

NECK:
Start mid back and fasten the strand with 1 slip stitch in a single crochet, 1 chain stitch (= 1 single crochet), then working 1 single crochet in each double crochet to end of round = 70-74-76-84-86-90 single crochets. Cut and fasten the strand.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = round already worked; start at arrow!
symbols = start here
symbols = round begins with 1 chain stitch (if you work outermost on the hook the chain stitch can often be too tight; 1 chain stitch should be as long as 1 single crochet is wide), and finishes with 1 slip stitch in the first chain stitch at the beginning of the round
symbols = round begins with 2 chain stitches and finishes with 1 slip stitch in the 2nd chain stitch at the beginning of the round
symbols = round begins with 3 chain stitches and finishes with 1 slip stitch in the 3rd chain stitch at the beginning of the round
symbols = round begins with 7 chain stitches and finishes with 1 slip stitch in the 7th chain stitch at the beginning of the round
symbols = single crochet in stitch
symbols = single crochet in back loop of stitch
symbols = quintruple-treble crochet in back loop of stitch worked as follows: Make 5 yarn overs, insert the hook through the back loop of the single crochet, pick up the strand, make 1 yarn over and pull the strand through the first 2 loops on the hook *, repeat from a total of *-* 6 times
symbols = half-double crochet in back loop of the stitch
symbols = double crochet in back loop of the stitch
symbols = double crochet in stitch
diagram
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (13)

country flag Gemma wrote:

Goedenavond, ik maak Drops 207-28 in maat L. Ik zit te puzzelen met de Pas. Ik interpreteer de uitleg en het telpatroon als volgt: als ik A1a/A2a drie maal herhaal en dan een toer haak met A1b/A2b dan zijn dat in totaal 7 toeren. Terwijl ik lees dat ik voor maat L eerst 7 toeren 16 steken moet meerderen en daarna 8 toeren 8 steken moet meerderen. \r\nHet kan niet anders dan dat ik iets verkeerd interpreteer maar ik weet niet waar. Kunt u mij adviseren? Alvast dank!

19.12.2021 - 20:16

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Gemma,

Je meerdert eerst 7 keer in totaal 16 steken en dan 8 keer 8 steken, dat zijn in totaal 15 toeren. Als A.1a/A.2a in totaal 3 keer in de hoogte zijn gehaakt heb je in totaal 9 toeren gehaakt. Dan ga je allen verder met A.1b/A.2b, dus dit patroon herhaal je steeds in de hoogte en je moet dan dus nog 6 keer meerderen.

20.12.2021 - 16:40

country flag ISABELLE CARPENTIER wrote:

Bonjour, augmentation raglan: A1aA2a 3 rangs 3 fois en hauteur soit 9 rgs "augmenter 7 fois 16 mailles soit 7X16=112 aug ensuite "augmenter 7 fois 8 mailles" les 2 dern rgs de A1aA2a 2X8=16 aug Puis A1bA2b soit 1rg? donc 1 fois 8 mailles= 8 aug Total 136 augmentations plus mes 80 mailles de départ =216 mailles je n'arrive pas au 248 brides demandées Merci de m'aider

16.12.2020 - 12:04

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Carpentier, en taille M vous devez augmenter 7 fois 16 mailles (= on augmente 2 m avant chaque fil marqueur + 2 m après chaque fil marqueur) = 112 augmentations. Puis vous augmentez seulement 8 m (= 1 m avant chaque fil marqueur + 1 m après chaque fil marqueur) x 7 = 56 augmentations. Soit: 80+112+56=248 m. Bon crochet!

16.12.2020 - 14:03

country flag ISABELLE CARPENTIER wrote:

Bonjour, ce modèle 207-28 informe qu'il y a eu une correction en ligne le 23/10/2019 : "correction du texte sous RAGLAN" pouvez vous m'adresser cette correction? Merci par avance (j'ai adressé un e.mail à KALIDOU qui m'a dit de voir avec Nathalie de DROPS)

28.11.2020 - 14:26

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Carpentier, si vous avez imprimé les explications du modèle avant la date de la correction, il sera plus sage de les imprimer à nouveau, sinon, le modèle en ligne est déjà corrigé. Bon crochet!

30.11.2020 - 08:25

country flag Alessia wrote:

Buon giorno, volendo realizzare la parte alta del maglione con una colorazione differente, approssimativamente quanto filato servirebbe per ciascun colore? Grazie in anticipo 🙂

13.11.2020 - 13:44

DROPS Design answered:

Buongiorno Alessa, per un'assistenza così personalizzata può rivolgersi al suo rivenditore DROPS di fiducia. Buon lavoro!

13.11.2020 - 15:11

country flag Ilse wrote:

Help, ik kom er niet uit. Ik moet bij de raglan meerderen, A1a/A2a doe ik in totaal 3 keer, dat zijn dan 9 toeren dan kom ik voor een maat M nooit uit op 248 steken. De stokjes moet ik toch niet meerderen, of lees ik alles heel verkeerd??

10.09.2020 - 16:16

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Ilse,

Je meerdert in totaal 7 keer 16 steken (dus 4 steken bij elke raglan) op elke toer en daarna 7 keer 8 steken. Op die manier kom je in totaal op 248 steken. Je meerdert zowel in de toer met stokjes als in de vasten.

13.09.2020 - 11:02

country flag Helena wrote:

Hækles der med dobbelttråd?

06.01.2020 - 17:08

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Helena, du hækler med enkelt tråd i DROPS Lima. God fornøjelse :)

31.01.2020 - 11:09

country flag Yasmijn wrote:

Hoe moet ik meerderen bij de A.1/2. a en b? Er staat 'meerder 16 steken 6 keer'. Maar ik heb maar 80 steken op mijn toer. En 6 keer 16 steken meerderen zijn 96 steken ..

29.11.2019 - 20:56

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Yasmijn,

Je meerdert 16 steken op de toer, dus 4 steken per raglan, aan elke kant van de markeerdraad meerder je 2 steken. (Zie ook 'RAGLAN' bij uitleg voor het patroon). Dit doe je 6 keer, daarna meerder je 8 steken in totaal op de toer, afhankelijk van je maat doe je dit 6-7-8-13-13-15 keer.

16.12.2019 - 12:54

country flag Christine wrote:

Bonjour, Je ne comprends pas dans quel sens il faut lire le diagramme. A1 à A4 sont-ils des rangs différents et quelles mailles faut-il employé ? Merci pour votre aide. Cordialement Christine

02.11.2019 - 20:33

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Christine, les diagrammes se lisent de bas en haut. Les diagrammes A.1 et A.3 montrent comment commencer & terminer les rangs/tours. Répétez ensuite les diagrammes A.2 / A.4 en largeur comme indiqué dans les explications. Découvrez ici comment lire un diagramme. Bon crochet!

04.11.2019 - 16:26

country flag Sandra wrote:

Hej, Jeg forstår ikke helt, hvordan man udtager (RAGLAN). Skal jeg i 1. omgang med 5. dobbeltstangmasker udtage med 7x16 og 7x8 (str. M), eller hvordan? Jeg læser det nemlig som om, at jeg skal udtage med 4 masker ved hver mærketråde, men så når jeg på ingen måde op på de 248 masker på en omgang med tre omgange med de 5. dobbelte stangmasker. Håber i kan hjælpe og på forhånd tak.

20.10.2019 - 19:48

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Sandra På 1. omgang med økninger, øker du med 16 masker (du øker med 2 masker på hver side av en merketråd, du har 4 merketråder = 16 økte masker). Etter 1. økning har du 96 masker. Det skal økes med 16 masker på hver omgang 7 ganger. Du har 80 masker, deretter øker du med 16 masker 7 ganger = 80 + (16x7) = 192 masker. Deretter skal det bare økes med 8 masker på 7 omganger. 192 + (8x7) = 248 masker når alle økninger i raglan er ferdig. God Fornøyelse!

21.10.2019 - 15:07

country flag Nicole wrote:

Très beau pull qui donne envie d'être tricoté et porté.

14.07.2019 - 17:42