Mossy Twine by DROPS Design
Knitted sweater with raglan in DROPS Snow. The piece is worked with cables and bobbles. Sizes S - XXXL.
DROPS 207-37
DROPS Design: Pattern no ee-666
Yarn group E or C + C
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SIZES:
S - M - L - XL - XXL – XXXL
Finished measurements:
Chest measurements: 108-116-124-136-148-160 cm = 42 1/2”-45 3/4”-48 3/4”-53 1/2”-58 1/8”-63”
Full length: 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm = 21 1/4"-22"-22 3/4"-23 5/8"-24 3/8"-25 1/4"
All measurements in chart are in cm.
MATERIALS:
DROPS SNOW from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group E)
600-650-700-750-850-950 g color 06, olive
KNITTING GAUGE:
10 stitches in width and 14 rows in height with stockinette stitch = 10 x 10 cm = 4” x 4”.
NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 9 MM = US 13.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 9 MM = US 13: Length 40 cm = 16” and 80 cm = 32” for stockinette stitch/pattern.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 8 MM = US 11.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 8 MM = US 11: Length 40 cm = 16” and 80 cm = 32” for rib.
DROPS CABLE NEEDLE – for cables.
Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a smaller needle size.
DROPS Design: Pattern no ee-666
Yarn group E or C + C
-------------------------------------------------------
SIZES:
S - M - L - XL - XXL – XXXL
Finished measurements:
Chest measurements: 108-116-124-136-148-160 cm = 42 1/2”-45 3/4”-48 3/4”-53 1/2”-58 1/8”-63”
Full length: 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm = 21 1/4"-22"-22 3/4"-23 5/8"-24 3/8"-25 1/4"
All measurements in chart are in cm.
MATERIALS:
DROPS SNOW from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group E)
600-650-700-750-850-950 g color 06, olive
KNITTING GAUGE:
10 stitches in width and 14 rows in height with stockinette stitch = 10 x 10 cm = 4” x 4”.
NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 9 MM = US 13.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 9 MM = US 13: Length 40 cm = 16” and 80 cm = 32” for stockinette stitch/pattern.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 8 MM = US 11.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 8 MM = US 11: Length 40 cm = 16” and 80 cm = 32” for rib.
DROPS CABLE NEEDLE – for cables.
Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a smaller needle size.
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Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here.
There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here.
For this pattern in British English, please click here.
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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:
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PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 and A.2.
DECREASE/INCREASE TIP (evenly spaced):
To work out how to decrease/increase evenly, count the total number of stitches on needle (e.g. 37 stitches), and divide by number of decreases/increases to be made (e.g. 7) = 5.3. In this example, decrease by knitting together approx. each 4th and 5th stitch.
When increasing, make 1 yarn over after approx. each 5th stitch. On the next row work the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.
RAGLAN:
Decrease 1 stitch on each side of the marker threads (= 8 stitches decreased on round) as follows:
Decrease 1 stitch after the marker thread on front and back pieces: Knit 1, slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch (= 1 stitch decreased).
Decrease 1 stitch before the marker thread on front and back pieces: Work until there are 3 stitches left before the marker thread, knit 2 together (= 1 stitch decreased), knit 1.
Decrease 1 stitch after the marker thread on the sleeve; slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch (= 1 stitch decreased).
Decrease 1 stitch before the marker thread on the sleeve: Work until there are 2 stitches left before the marker thread, knit 2 together (= 1 stitch decreased).
When you have decreased 12-14-15-16-19-21 times continue to decrease as before on the sleeves, and decrease 2 stitches on each side of the front piece and back piece (= 12 stitches decreased on the round) as follows:
Decrease 2 stitches after the marker thread on the front piece and back piece: Knit 1, slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 2 together and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted together stitches (= 2 stitches decreased).
Decrease 2 stitches before the marker thread on the front piece and back piece: Knit until there are 4 stitches left before the marker thread, knit 3 together (= 2 stitches decreased), knit 1.
INCREASE TIP (for under sleeve):
Work until there are 2 stitches left before the marker thread, 1 yarn over, knit 4 (marker thread sits between these 2 stitches), 1 yarn over. On the next round knit the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. Then work the new stitches in stockinette stitch.
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START THE PIECE HERE:
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SWEATER – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The piece is worked in the round with circular needle as far as the armholes. Then the sleeves are worked in the round with double pointed needles/short circular needle before they are placed on the same circular needle as the body. Yoke and neck are then worked to finish.
BODY:
Cast on 138-150-162-174-186-198 stitches with circular needle size 8 mm = US 11 and Snow. Knit 1 round then work as follows: * Purl 2, (knit 3, purl 3) over de first/next 30-36-42-48-54-60 stitches, knit 3, purl 2, work A.1 over the next 32 stitches, * work from *-* 1 more time on the round. Continue in the round like this until A.1 has been completed in height (you decrease 3 stitches on the last row in A.1; i.e. 6 stitches on the round) = 132-144-156-168-180-192 stitches. Change to circular needle size 9 mm = US 13 and work the next round as follows: * Knit the first 37-43-49-55-61-67 stitches and decrease at the same time 7-9-11-11-11-11 stitches evenly spaced – read DECREASE/INCREASE TIP, work A.2 over A.1 *, work from *-* 1 more time on the round = 118-126-134-146-158-170 stitches. There are now 30-34-38-44-50-56 knitted stitches on each side between A.2 on the front and back pieces. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE! A.2 is repeated in height to finished length. When the piece measures 27-27-27-27-27-26 cm = 10 5/8"-10 5/8"-10 5/8"-10 5/8"-10 5/8"-10 1/4", work the next round as follows: Knit the first 12-14-16-19-22-25 stitches, bind off the next 6 stitches (= in side under sleeve), work pattern as before over the next 53-57-61-67-73-79 stitches, bind off 6 stitches (= in side under sleeve), work pattern as before over the remaining stitches on the round. Cut the strand and lay the piece to one side.
SLEEVE:
Cast on 24-24-24-30-30-30 stitches with double pointed needles size 8 mm = US 11 and Snow. Knit 1 round then work rib, (knit 3 / purl 3) for 5 cm = 2”. Knit 1 round where you decrease 2-2-0-2-2-0 stitches evenly spaced = 22-22-24-28-28-30 stitches. Insert a marker thread at the beginning of the round (= mid under sleeve). Change to double pointed needles size 9 mm = US 13 and work stockinette stitch in the round. When the piece measures 8-10-9-10-10-7 cm = 3 1/8”-4”-3 1/2”-4”-4”-2 3/4” increase 1 stitch on each side of the marker thread under the sleeve – remember INCREASE TIP. Increase like this every 8th-5th-5th-5th-3rd-3rd round a total of 6-8-8-7-10-11 times = 34-38-40-42-48-52 stitches. When the piece measures 39-37-36-34-32-31 cm = 15 1/4”-14 1/2”-14 1/4”-13 3/8”-12 1/2”-12 1/4” increase 1 stitch on each side of the marker thread every 2nd round a total of 4 times = 42-46-48-50-56-60 stitches. When the sleeve measures a total of 45-43-42-40-38-36 cm = 17 3/4"-17"-16 1/2"-15 3/4"-15"-14 1/4", bind off 6 stitches under the sleeve (= 3 stitches on each side of the marker thread) = 36-40-42-44-50-54 stitches. Lay the sleeve to one side and work 1 more sleeve in the same way.
YOKE:
Place the sleeves on the same circular needle as the body, where stitches were bind off for the armholes = 178-194-206-222-246-266 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread in every transition between body and sleeves (= 4 marker threads). Start in the transition between back piece and left sleeve. Continue in the round with pattern A.2 and stockinette stitch over the remaining stitches on the front/back pieces and sleeves; until piece measures 2-1-2-3-0-0 cm = 3/4"-3/8"-3/4"-1 1/8"-0”-0” from division. On the next round begin decreasing to RAGLAN – read description above. Decrease like this (i.e.1 stitch on each side of the marker threads = 8 stitches decreased on the round) every 2nd round a total of 12-14-15-16-19-21 times = 82-82-86-94-94-98 stitches. Now continue to decrease 1 stitch on sleeves, but 2 stitches on the front and back pieces (= 12 stitches decreased on the round) every 2nd round 2 times = 58-58-62-70-70-74 stitches. Knit 1 round where you decrease 14-12-14-18-16-18 stitches evenly spaced = 44-46-48-52-54-56 stitches. The sweater measures approx. 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm = 21 1/4"-22"-22 3/4"-23 5/8"-24 3/8"-25 1/4" from the shoulder down.
NECK:
Change to short circular needle size 8 mm = US 11 and knit 1 round where you increase 4-2-6-2-6-4 stitches evenly spaced = 48-48-54-54-60-60 stitches. Work rib, (knit 3 / purl 3) for 5 cm = 2”. Bind off with knit over knit and purl over purl.
EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:
-------------------------------------------------------
PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 and A.2.
DECREASE/INCREASE TIP (evenly spaced):
To work out how to decrease/increase evenly, count the total number of stitches on needle (e.g. 37 stitches), and divide by number of decreases/increases to be made (e.g. 7) = 5.3. In this example, decrease by knitting together approx. each 4th and 5th stitch.
When increasing, make 1 yarn over after approx. each 5th stitch. On the next row work the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.
RAGLAN:
Decrease 1 stitch on each side of the marker threads (= 8 stitches decreased on round) as follows:
Decrease 1 stitch after the marker thread on front and back pieces: Knit 1, slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch (= 1 stitch decreased).
Decrease 1 stitch before the marker thread on front and back pieces: Work until there are 3 stitches left before the marker thread, knit 2 together (= 1 stitch decreased), knit 1.
Decrease 1 stitch after the marker thread on the sleeve; slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch (= 1 stitch decreased).
Decrease 1 stitch before the marker thread on the sleeve: Work until there are 2 stitches left before the marker thread, knit 2 together (= 1 stitch decreased).
When you have decreased 12-14-15-16-19-21 times continue to decrease as before on the sleeves, and decrease 2 stitches on each side of the front piece and back piece (= 12 stitches decreased on the round) as follows:
Decrease 2 stitches after the marker thread on the front piece and back piece: Knit 1, slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 2 together and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted together stitches (= 2 stitches decreased).
Decrease 2 stitches before the marker thread on the front piece and back piece: Knit until there are 4 stitches left before the marker thread, knit 3 together (= 2 stitches decreased), knit 1.
INCREASE TIP (for under sleeve):
Work until there are 2 stitches left before the marker thread, 1 yarn over, knit 4 (marker thread sits between these 2 stitches), 1 yarn over. On the next round knit the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. Then work the new stitches in stockinette stitch.
-------------------------------------------------------
START THE PIECE HERE:
-------------------------------------------------------
SWEATER – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The piece is worked in the round with circular needle as far as the armholes. Then the sleeves are worked in the round with double pointed needles/short circular needle before they are placed on the same circular needle as the body. Yoke and neck are then worked to finish.
BODY:
Cast on 138-150-162-174-186-198 stitches with circular needle size 8 mm = US 11 and Snow. Knit 1 round then work as follows: * Purl 2, (knit 3, purl 3) over de first/next 30-36-42-48-54-60 stitches, knit 3, purl 2, work A.1 over the next 32 stitches, * work from *-* 1 more time on the round. Continue in the round like this until A.1 has been completed in height (you decrease 3 stitches on the last row in A.1; i.e. 6 stitches on the round) = 132-144-156-168-180-192 stitches. Change to circular needle size 9 mm = US 13 and work the next round as follows: * Knit the first 37-43-49-55-61-67 stitches and decrease at the same time 7-9-11-11-11-11 stitches evenly spaced – read DECREASE/INCREASE TIP, work A.2 over A.1 *, work from *-* 1 more time on the round = 118-126-134-146-158-170 stitches. There are now 30-34-38-44-50-56 knitted stitches on each side between A.2 on the front and back pieces. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE! A.2 is repeated in height to finished length. When the piece measures 27-27-27-27-27-26 cm = 10 5/8"-10 5/8"-10 5/8"-10 5/8"-10 5/8"-10 1/4", work the next round as follows: Knit the first 12-14-16-19-22-25 stitches, bind off the next 6 stitches (= in side under sleeve), work pattern as before over the next 53-57-61-67-73-79 stitches, bind off 6 stitches (= in side under sleeve), work pattern as before over the remaining stitches on the round. Cut the strand and lay the piece to one side.
SLEEVE:
Cast on 24-24-24-30-30-30 stitches with double pointed needles size 8 mm = US 11 and Snow. Knit 1 round then work rib, (knit 3 / purl 3) for 5 cm = 2”. Knit 1 round where you decrease 2-2-0-2-2-0 stitches evenly spaced = 22-22-24-28-28-30 stitches. Insert a marker thread at the beginning of the round (= mid under sleeve). Change to double pointed needles size 9 mm = US 13 and work stockinette stitch in the round. When the piece measures 8-10-9-10-10-7 cm = 3 1/8”-4”-3 1/2”-4”-4”-2 3/4” increase 1 stitch on each side of the marker thread under the sleeve – remember INCREASE TIP. Increase like this every 8th-5th-5th-5th-3rd-3rd round a total of 6-8-8-7-10-11 times = 34-38-40-42-48-52 stitches. When the piece measures 39-37-36-34-32-31 cm = 15 1/4”-14 1/2”-14 1/4”-13 3/8”-12 1/2”-12 1/4” increase 1 stitch on each side of the marker thread every 2nd round a total of 4 times = 42-46-48-50-56-60 stitches. When the sleeve measures a total of 45-43-42-40-38-36 cm = 17 3/4"-17"-16 1/2"-15 3/4"-15"-14 1/4", bind off 6 stitches under the sleeve (= 3 stitches on each side of the marker thread) = 36-40-42-44-50-54 stitches. Lay the sleeve to one side and work 1 more sleeve in the same way.
YOKE:
Place the sleeves on the same circular needle as the body, where stitches were bind off for the armholes = 178-194-206-222-246-266 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread in every transition between body and sleeves (= 4 marker threads). Start in the transition between back piece and left sleeve. Continue in the round with pattern A.2 and stockinette stitch over the remaining stitches on the front/back pieces and sleeves; until piece measures 2-1-2-3-0-0 cm = 3/4"-3/8"-3/4"-1 1/8"-0”-0” from division. On the next round begin decreasing to RAGLAN – read description above. Decrease like this (i.e.1 stitch on each side of the marker threads = 8 stitches decreased on the round) every 2nd round a total of 12-14-15-16-19-21 times = 82-82-86-94-94-98 stitches. Now continue to decrease 1 stitch on sleeves, but 2 stitches on the front and back pieces (= 12 stitches decreased on the round) every 2nd round 2 times = 58-58-62-70-70-74 stitches. Knit 1 round where you decrease 14-12-14-18-16-18 stitches evenly spaced = 44-46-48-52-54-56 stitches. The sweater measures approx. 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm = 21 1/4"-22"-22 3/4"-23 5/8"-24 3/8"-25 1/4" from the shoulder down.
NECK:
Change to short circular needle size 8 mm = US 11 and knit 1 round where you increase 4-2-6-2-6-4 stitches evenly spaced = 48-48-54-54-60-60 stitches. Work rib, (knit 3 / purl 3) for 5 cm = 2”. Bind off with knit over knit and purl over purl.
Diagram
All measurements in charts are in cm.
|
= knit |
|
= purl |
|
= purl 2 together (= 1 stitch decreased) |
|
= place 1 stitch on cable needle behind the piece, knit 3, knit 1 from cable needle |
|
= place 3 stitches on cable needle in front of the piece, knit 1, knit 3 from cable needle |
|
= place 1 stitch on cable needle behind the piece, knit 3, purl 1 from cable needle |
|
= place 3 stitches on cable needle in front of the piece, purl 1, knit 3 from cable needle |
|
= Bobble – work as follows: Knit 1, 1 yarn over, knit 1, 1 yarn over, knit 1 in same stitch (= 5 stitches), turn the piece. Work 3 rows in stockinette stitch over these 5 stitches, turn and knit 5 together = 1 stitch left. |
|
= place 2 stitches on cable needle behind the piece, knit 2, knit 2 from cable needle |
|
= place 2 stitches on cable needle in front of the piece, knit 2, knit 2 from cable needle |
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What can you do with our patterns? You can share DROPS patterns online, using the pattern original picture, materials, name and number. But you are NOT ALLOWED to reproduce the complete pattern digitally in any way. Yarn stores are welcome to use the DROPS pattern database to promote the sale of our assortment. You can print out our patterns, make as many copies as you’d like. The only thing we ask is that you don't make any changes / additions to the original printed document. And that the patterns according to the DROPS philosophy are given out to the consumers for free. Editorials that wish to publish our patterns in printed books or magazines can contact us for more information. The sale of garments based on DROPS patterns is permitted as long as they are sold as single items or per order. Further commercial use of the patterns is not permitted. It has to be clearly stated that the garment is made based on a design from DROPS DESIGN. The use of clothing labels of which DROPS DESIGN forms part is conditioned by the inclusion of the following text: “A DROPS DESIGN made by …..”. The use of DROPS photos for marketing purposes/sales is only permitted in connection with the use/sale of DROPS products. The photos may not be cut or edited and the logo should be clearly visible.
We reserve the right to withdraw the permission for use of our patterns at any time, notwithstanding the reason.
What can you do with our patterns? You can share DROPS patterns online, using the pattern original picture, materials, name and number. But you are NOT ALLOWED to reproduce the complete pattern digitally in any way. Yarn stores are welcome to use the DROPS pattern database to promote the sale of our assortment. You can print out our patterns, make as many copies as you’d like. The only thing we ask is that you don't make any changes / additions to the original printed document. And that the patterns according to the DROPS philosophy are given out to the consumers for free. Editorials that wish to publish our patterns in printed books or magazines can contact us for more information. The sale of garments based on DROPS patterns is permitted as long as they are sold as single items or per order. Further commercial use of the patterns is not permitted. It has to be clearly stated that the garment is made based on a design from DROPS DESIGN. The use of clothing labels of which DROPS DESIGN forms part is conditioned by the inclusion of the following text: “A DROPS DESIGN made by …..”. The use of DROPS photos for marketing purposes/sales is only permitted in connection with the use/sale of DROPS products. The photos may not be cut or edited and the logo should be clearly visible.
We reserve the right to withdraw the permission for use of our patterns at any time, notwithstanding the reason.
With over 30 years in knitting and crochet design, DROPS Design offers one of the most extensive collections of free patterns on the internet - translated to 17 languages. As of today we count 291 catalogs and 10795 patterns - 10791 of which are translated into English (US/in).
We work hard to bring you the best knitting and crochet have to offer, inspiration and advice as well as great quality yarns at incredible prices! Would you like to use our patterns for other than personal use? You can read what you are allowed to do in the Copyright text at the bottom of all our patterns. Happy crafting!
Ho iniziato il maglione in taglia M. Dopo aver lavorato un gomitolo ed essere arrivata a metà del primo rombo ho misurato il maglione. È enorme: ci sono almeno 20 maglie sui fianchi in più del dovuto. Ho confrontato anche i vs altri maglioni, che con i Ferri n 9 hanno una circonferenza sui fianchi di ca. 107 maglie e non 130. Peccato perché il modello è molto bello e mi piaceva riprodurlo.
23.01.2023 - 22:57DROPS Design answered:
Buonasera Catia, se preferisce può adattare la lavorazione alla sua vestibilità riducendo il numero di maglie. Buon lavoro!
25.01.2023 kl. 22:18Je trouve que ce modèle taille trop large. De plus la laine Snow se détend beaucoup au lavage ; le pull s’est élargi de 10 cm lors du premier lavage ce qui le rend inutilisable.
06.12.2022 - 08:19DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Isabelle, pensez à toujours bien vérifier vos mesures d'après le schéma et à bien conserver la bonne tension. Vous trouverez ici quelques conseils pour l'entretien des laines en général, n'hésitez pas à demander conseil à votre magasin. Bon tricot!
06.12.2022 kl. 11:22Buongiorno, A1 e A2 sono solo sul davanti? Grazie
17.02.2022 - 12:50DROPS Design answered:
Buonasera Marina, i diagrammi vengono lavorati 2 volte sul giro. Buon lavoro!
22.02.2022 kl. 22:44Üdv, a pulóver leírása magyar nyelven abszolút nem elérhető. - a munka innen kezdődik - rész hiányzik. :-(
13.09.2021 - 17:46Is it possible to have this lovely pattern translated for straight needles please?
20.05.2021 - 09:02DROPS Design answered:
Dear Wendy, please understand that we cannot modify our patterns to each indicidual request, However, if you feel you are up to doing the modifications yourself, Here is a lesson to help you do that. Happy Knitting!
20.05.2021 kl. 10:11Bonjour, Je tricote ce modèle ee-666 en taille L. À la fin du dos/devant, l’ouvrage mesure 27 cm. L’empiècement comporte 17 diminutions (15 +2) dès le 1er tour tous les 2 tours, et un dernier tour de diminutions, soit 35 tours. Sachant que 14 rangs/tours font 10cm, mon empiècement fera 25cm. Mon ouvrage fera donc environ 27 + 25 = 52 cm et non 58 comme indiqué. Où sont les 6 cm manquants ? Ai-je mal compris les explications ? Merci pour vos éclaircissements. Bien cordialement
31.12.2020 - 10:29DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Véronique, désolée pour la réponse tardive, votre question a bien été traitée et le schéma corrigé: en taille L, on va avoir: 5 cm de côtes, 22 cm jusqu'aux emmanchures, 27 cm d'empiècement et 4 cm d'épaules = 58 cm de hauteur totale. Bon tricot!
26.04.2021 kl. 13:52Naald 2= 2 averecht, dan over de volgende 42 steken 3 recht 3 averecht = 45 + telpatroon van 32 maakt 77 steken , hoe verder tot de 162?
05.11.2020 - 22:09DROPS Design answered:
Dag Lilian,
Wat tussen de sterretjes staat brei je nog een keer op de naald, hierdoor kom je precies op 162 steken in totaal.
19.11.2020 kl. 11:18Hola. No entiendo como empezar el resorte. En talla s. Haciendo 2 reveses. Sigo con 3 dereschos u 3 reveses? Porque esta entre parentesis . Llego a 30 pts con 1 reves pero luego siguen 3 derechos y dos reveses. Luego A1. En total conte 134 pts. Muy confuso
02.07.2020 - 04:53DROPS Design answered:
Hola Carla, para la talla S, la primera fila se trabaja de la siguiente manera: *2 rev (3 der, 3 rev), repetir lo que está entre paréntesis sobre los primeros/ siguientes 30 pts, 3 der, 2 rev, trabajar A.1 sobre los siguientes 32 pts *. Trabajar de * a * 1 vez más. Así completamos la primera vuelta.
22.11.2020 kl. 12:42Thanks, however even once you get to the main body of the jumper, and have decreased to 118 sts, this is still 118 cm according to that tension, which is enormous! It would fit me and i am a size 20! How can this possible be the small size? I simply don’t understand.
19.03.2020 - 23:51DROPS Design answered:
Dear Mrs Palser, you are then working cables and you need more stitches in width when working with cables than with working with stocking stitch. Just make sure your tension is stocking stitch with larger needle is right, make sure then you keep the same tension and your measurements would be fine and as shown in the measurement chart. Happy knitting!
20.03.2020 kl. 09:46I simply don’t understand the sizes for this pattern, if the tension is 10cm for 10 stitches then the M size is asking you to cast on 150 stitches which would measure 150cm??? Which is very large? Surely this is not correct?
18.03.2020 - 00:52DROPS Design answered:
Dear Mrs Palser, rib are worked with smaller needle and will tighten piece. Then you will work with cables and pattern and larger needle, but to get the correct width you will need more stitches in pattern than in stocking stitch, that's why the calculation doesn't work here (gauge is worked in stocking stitch). Should your tension be right, then you should get correct finished measurements as in chart. Happy knitting!
18.03.2020 kl. 08:36