Mossy Twine by DROPS Design
Knitted sweater with raglan in DROPS Snow. The piece is worked with cables and bobbles. Sizes S - XXXL.
Yarn group E or C + C
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SIZES:
S - M - L - XL - XXL – XXXL
Finished measurements:
Chest measurements: 108-116-124-136-148-160 cm = 42 1/2”-45 3/4”-48 3/4”-53 1/2”-58 1/8”-63”
Full length: 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm = 21 1/4"-22"-22 3/4"-23 5/8"-24 3/8"-25 1/4"
All measurements in chart are in cm.
MATERIALS:
DROPS SNOW from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group E)
600-650-700-750-850-950 g color 06, olive
KNITTING GAUGE:
10 stitches in width and 14 rows in height with stockinette stitch = 10 x 10 cm = 4” x 4”.
NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 9 MM = US 13.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 9 MM = US 13: Length 40 cm = 16” and 80 cm = 32” for stockinette stitch/pattern.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 8 MM = US 11.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 8 MM = US 11: Length 40 cm = 16” and 80 cm = 32” for rib.
DROPS CABLE NEEDLE – for cables.
Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a smaller needle size.
Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!
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DROPS Snow 100% Wool |
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NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:
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PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 and A.2.
DECREASE/INCREASE TIP (evenly spaced):
To work out how to decrease/increase evenly, count the total number of stitches on needle (e.g. 37 stitches), and divide by number of decreases/increases to be made (e.g. 7) = 5.3. In this example, decrease by knitting together approx. each 4th and 5th stitch.
When increasing, make 1 yarn over after approx. each 5th stitch. On the next row work the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.
RAGLAN:
Decrease 1 stitch on each side of the marker threads (= 8 stitches decreased on round) as follows:
Decrease 1 stitch after the marker thread on front and back pieces: Knit 1, slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch (= 1 stitch decreased).
Decrease 1 stitch before the marker thread on front and back pieces: Work until there are 3 stitches left before the marker thread, knit 2 together (= 1 stitch decreased), knit 1.
Decrease 1 stitch after the marker thread on the sleeve; slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch (= 1 stitch decreased).
Decrease 1 stitch before the marker thread on the sleeve: Work until there are 2 stitches left before the marker thread, knit 2 together (= 1 stitch decreased).
When you have decreased 12-14-15-16-19-21 times continue to decrease as before on the sleeves, and decrease 2 stitches on each side of the front piece and back piece (= 12 stitches decreased on the round) as follows:
Decrease 2 stitches after the marker thread on the front piece and back piece: Knit 1, slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 2 together and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted together stitches (= 2 stitches decreased).
Decrease 2 stitches before the marker thread on the front piece and back piece: Knit until there are 4 stitches left before the marker thread, knit 3 together (= 2 stitches decreased), knit 1.
INCREASE TIP (for under sleeve):
Work until there are 2 stitches left before the marker thread, 1 yarn over, knit 4 (marker thread sits between these 2 stitches), 1 yarn over. On the next round knit the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. Then work the new stitches in stockinette stitch.
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START THE PIECE HERE:
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SWEATER – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The piece is worked in the round with circular needle as far as the armholes. Then the sleeves are worked in the round with double pointed needles/short circular needle before they are placed on the same circular needle as the body. Yoke and neck are then worked to finish.
BODY:
Cast on 138-150-162-174-186-198 stitches with circular needle size 8 mm = US 11 and Snow. Knit 1 round then work as follows: * Purl 2, (knit 3, purl 3) over de first/next 30-36-42-48-54-60 stitches, knit 3, purl 2, work A.1 over the next 32 stitches, * work from *-* 1 more time on the round. Continue in the round like this until A.1 has been completed in height (you decrease 3 stitches on the last row in A.1; i.e. 6 stitches on the round) = 132-144-156-168-180-192 stitches. Change to circular needle size 9 mm = US 13 and work the next round as follows: * Knit the first 37-43-49-55-61-67 stitches and decrease at the same time 7-9-11-11-11-11 stitches evenly spaced – read DECREASE/INCREASE TIP, work A.2 over A.1 *, work from *-* 1 more time on the round = 118-126-134-146-158-170 stitches. There are now 30-34-38-44-50-56 knitted stitches on each side between A.2 on the front and back pieces. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE! A.2 is repeated in height to finished length. When the piece measures 27-27-27-27-27-26 cm = 10 5/8"-10 5/8"-10 5/8"-10 5/8"-10 5/8"-10 1/4", work the next round as follows: Knit the first 12-14-16-19-22-25 stitches, bind off the next 6 stitches (= in side under sleeve), work pattern as before over the next 53-57-61-67-73-79 stitches, bind off 6 stitches (= in side under sleeve), work pattern as before over the remaining stitches on the round. Cut the strand and lay the piece to one side.
SLEEVE:
Cast on 24-24-24-30-30-30 stitches with double pointed needles size 8 mm = US 11 and Snow. Knit 1 round then work rib, (knit 3 / purl 3) for 5 cm = 2”. Knit 1 round where you decrease 2-2-0-2-2-0 stitches evenly spaced = 22-22-24-28-28-30 stitches. Insert a marker thread at the beginning of the round (= mid under sleeve). Change to double pointed needles size 9 mm = US 13 and work stockinette stitch in the round. When the piece measures 8-10-9-10-10-7 cm = 3 1/8”-4”-3 1/2”-4”-4”-2 3/4” increase 1 stitch on each side of the marker thread under the sleeve – remember INCREASE TIP. Increase like this every 8th-5th-5th-5th-3rd-3rd round a total of 6-8-8-7-10-11 times = 34-38-40-42-48-52 stitches. When the piece measures 39-37-36-34-32-31 cm = 15 1/4”-14 1/2”-14 1/4”-13 3/8”-12 1/2”-12 1/4” increase 1 stitch on each side of the marker thread every 2nd round a total of 4 times = 42-46-48-50-56-60 stitches. When the sleeve measures a total of 45-43-42-40-38-36 cm = 17 3/4"-17"-16 1/2"-15 3/4"-15"-14 1/4", bind off 6 stitches under the sleeve (= 3 stitches on each side of the marker thread) = 36-40-42-44-50-54 stitches. Lay the sleeve to one side and work 1 more sleeve in the same way.
YOKE:
Place the sleeves on the same circular needle as the body, where stitches were bind off for the armholes = 178-194-206-222-246-266 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread in every transition between body and sleeves (= 4 marker threads). Start in the transition between back piece and left sleeve. Continue in the round with pattern A.2 and stockinette stitch over the remaining stitches on the front/back pieces and sleeves; until piece measures 2-1-2-3-0-0 cm = 3/4"-3/8"-3/4"-1 1/8"-0”-0” from division. On the next round begin decreasing to RAGLAN – read description above. Decrease like this (i.e.1 stitch on each side of the marker threads = 8 stitches decreased on the round) every 2nd round a total of 12-14-15-16-19-21 times = 82-82-86-94-94-98 stitches. Now continue to decrease 1 stitch on sleeves, but 2 stitches on the front and back pieces (= 12 stitches decreased on the round) every 2nd round 2 times = 58-58-62-70-70-74 stitches. Knit 1 round where you decrease 14-12-14-18-16-18 stitches evenly spaced = 44-46-48-52-54-56 stitches. The sweater measures approx. 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm = 21 1/4"-22"-22 3/4"-23 5/8"-24 3/8"-25 1/4" from the shoulder down.
NECK:
Change to short circular needle size 8 mm = US 11 and knit 1 round where you increase 4-2-6-2-6-4 stitches evenly spaced = 48-48-54-54-60-60 stitches. Work rib, (knit 3 / purl 3) for 5 cm = 2”. Bind off with knit over knit and purl over purl.
Diagram
All measurements in charts are in cm.
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= knit |
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= purl |
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= purl 2 together (= 1 stitch decreased) |
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= place 1 stitch on cable needle behind the piece, knit 3, knit 1 from cable needle |
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= place 3 stitches on cable needle in front of the piece, knit 1, knit 3 from cable needle |
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= place 1 stitch on cable needle behind the piece, knit 3, purl 1 from cable needle |
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= place 3 stitches on cable needle in front of the piece, purl 1, knit 3 from cable needle |
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= Bobble – work as follows: Knit 1, 1 yarn over, knit 1, 1 yarn over, knit 1 in same stitch (= 5 stitches), turn the piece. Work 3 rows in stockinette stitch over these 5 stitches, turn and knit 5 together = 1 stitch left. |
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= place 2 stitches on cable needle behind the piece, knit 2, knit 2 from cable needle |
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= place 2 stitches on cable needle in front of the piece, knit 2, knit 2 from cable needle |
Do you need help with this pattern?
Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 207-37) for measurements and calculations.
Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.
1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?
Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.
The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.
The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.
3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?
The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.
Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.
See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?
4) How do I use the yarn converter?
At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).
If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.
5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?
The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.
Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?
Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.
The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.
Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.
9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.
When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.
When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.
When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.
When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.
When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.
The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?
Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.
The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?
Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.
14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?
It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.
See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)
15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?
To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.
See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately
16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?
Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.
Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!
17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?
Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.
See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open
18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?
Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.
See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?
19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?
Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.
It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.
The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.
20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?
If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.
Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.
21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?
All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.
Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding
Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:
1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.
2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.
3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.
4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.
22) Where on the garment is the length measured?
The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.
See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing
23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?
The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.
Comments / Questions (20)
What can you do with our patterns? You can share DROPS patterns online, using the pattern original picture, materials, name and number. But you are NOT ALLOWED to reproduce the complete pattern digitally in any way. Yarn stores are welcome to use the DROPS pattern database to promote the sale of our assortment. You can print out our patterns, make as many copies as you’d like. The only thing we ask is that you don't make any changes / additions to the original printed document. And that the patterns according to the DROPS philosophy are given out to the consumers for free. Editorials that wish to publish our patterns in printed books or magazines can contact us for more information. The sale of garments based on DROPS patterns is permitted as long as they are sold as single items or per order. Further commercial use of the patterns is not permitted. It has to be clearly stated that the garment is made based on a design from DROPS DESIGN. The use of clothing labels of which DROPS DESIGN forms part is conditioned by the inclusion of the following text: “A DROPS DESIGN made by …..”. The use of DROPS photos for marketing purposes/sales is only permitted in connection with the use/sale of DROPS products. The photos may not be cut or edited and the logo should be clearly visible.
We reserve the right to withdraw the permission for use of our patterns at any time, notwithstanding the reason.
With over 30 years in knitting and crochet design, DROPS Design offers one of the most extensive collections of free patterns on the internet - translated to 17 languages. As of today we count 267 catalogs and 9907 patterns - 9465 of which are translated into English (US/in).
We work hard to bring you the best knitting and crochet have to offer, inspiration and advice as well as great quality yarns at incredible prices! Would you like to use our patterns for other than personal use? You can read what you are allowed to do in the Copyright text at the bottom of all our patterns. Happy crafting!
Bonjour, Je tricote ce modèle ee-666 en taille L. À la fin du dos/devant, l’ouvrage mesure 27 cm. L’empiècement comporte 17 diminutions (15 +2) dès le 1er tour tous les 2 tours, et un dernier tour de diminutions, soit 35 tours. Sachant que 14 rangs/tours font 10cm, mon empiècement fera 25cm. Mon ouvrage fera donc environ 27 + 25 = 52 cm et non 58 comme indiqué. Où sont les 6 cm manquants ? Ai-je mal compris les explications ? Merci pour vos éclaircissements. Bien cordialement
Naald 2= 2 averecht, dan over de volgende 42 steken 3 recht 3 averecht = 45 + telpatroon van 32 maakt 77 steken , hoe verder tot de 162?
Dag Lilian,
Wat tussen de sterretjes staat brei je nog een keer op de naald, hierdoor kom je precies op 162 steken in totaal.
Hola. No entiendo como empezar el resorte. En talla s. Haciendo 2 reveses. Sigo con 3 dereschos u 3 reveses? Porque esta entre parentesis . Llego a 30 pts con 1 reves pero luego siguen 3 derechos y dos reveses. Luego A1. En total conte 134 pts. Muy confuso
DROPS Design
22.11.2020 kl. 12:42:
Hola Carla, para la talla S, la primera fila se trabaja de la siguiente manera: *2 rev (3 der, 3 rev), repetir lo que está entre paréntesis sobre los primeros/ siguientes 30 pts, 3 der, 2 rev, trabajar A.1 sobre los siguientes 32 pts *. Trabajar de * a * 1 vez más. Así completamos la primera vuelta.Thanks, however even once you get to the main body of the jumper, and have decreased to 118 sts, this is still 118 cm according to that tension, which is enormous! It would fit me and i am a size 20! How can this possible be the small size? I simply don’t understand.
DROPS Design
20.03.2020 kl. 09:46:
Dear Mrs Palser, you are then working cables and you need more stitches in width when working with cables than with working with stocking stitch. Just make sure your tension is stocking stitch with larger needle is right, make sure then you keep the same tension and your measurements would be fine and as shown in the measurement chart. Happy knitting!I simply don’t understand the sizes for this pattern, if the tension is 10cm for 10 stitches then the M size is asking you to cast on 150 stitches which would measure 150cm??? Which is very large? Surely this is not correct?
DROPS Design
18.03.2020 kl. 08:36:
Dear Mrs Palser, rib are worked with smaller needle and will tighten piece. Then you will work with cables and pattern and larger needle, but to get the correct width you will need more stitches in pattern than in stocking stitch, that's why the calculation doesn't work here (gauge is worked in stocking stitch). Should your tension be right, then you should get correct finished measurements as in chart. Happy knitting!Io volevo fare il maglione con i ferri normali!!! Quante maglie metto come avvio? E scalfo manica come faccio?
DROPS Design
24.02.2020 kl. 14:52:
Buongiorno Maura. Può avviare la metà del numero delle maglie indicate + 1 maglia da ciascun lato (quindi 2 maglie in più) che userà per la cucitura. A questo link trova indicazioni utili per lavorare in piano un capo presentato per essere lavorato in tondo. Per un aiuto più personalizzato, può rivolgersi al suo rivenditore Drops di fiducia. Buon lavoro!Hallo, ich möchte dieses Modell gerne in Größe XS stricken. Gibt es dafür auch eine Anleitung. Vielen Dank für Ihre Hilfe.
DROPS Design
24.02.2020 kl. 07:52:
Liebe Angelika, leider können wir jede Anleitung nach jedem individuellen Wunsch umrechnen, hier finden Sie aber tipps dafür. Gerne wird Ihnen Ihr DROPS Laden - auch telefonisch oder per E-Mail- auch weiterhelfen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!Tienes algún vídeo del patrón re-666? Estoy interesada en este patrón, gracias.
DROPS Design
23.02.2020 kl. 23:33:
Hola Katy. Tienes todos los vídeos relacionados con el patrón bajo el diagrama.Onko mitoituksessa tai ohjeen silmukkamäärissä jokin virhe? Ohjeen silmukkamäärällä tulee oversize-neule.
DROPS Design
07.01.2020 kl. 18:49:
Hei, olethan tarkistanut neuletiheytesi? Tämä neule on suunniteltu melko leveäksi, esim. koossa M ympärys on 108 cm.Harmittaa että kuvassa neule on tungettu vyötärön sisään. Olisi kiinnostavampaa nähdä miten neule laskeutuu edestä normaalisti. Löytyisikö neuleesta toisenlaisia kuvia?
DROPS Design
18.12.2019 kl. 16:45:
Hei, valitettavasti muita kuvia ei löydy.